I'r Gwyllt: Papua New Guinea Pethe

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-Ty Drwg Studio, Cardiff

-# I haven't looked in your eyes #

-I'm Amlyn Parry. I'm a musician.

-Ten years ago, I worked as a music

-teacher in Papua New Guinea.

-# I'll come to see you again

-# To listen to your song #

-Now, I'm travelling back.

-I hope to document the journey

-by recording songs with the people.

-# The sea isn't deep enough

-to stop me coming back #

-Music can bring people together.

-I'll record old and new friends...

-..in some of the most amazing

-locations on the planet.

-My name's Ami.

-I was nineteen, ten years ago.

-Through the VSO charity...

-..I became head teacher of a music

-school in a very remote area.

-This is Papua New Guinea,

-just north of Australia.

-I lived here in Kundiawa,

-in Chimbu province.

-Before starting the project,

-we had to build the school.

-By the end of the year,

-by playing and sharing music...

-..I was fluent in the language

-and part of the society.

-I haven't been there for ten years.

-It's time to go back.

-I want to go there

-to create music...

-..and listen

-to other people's music...

-..to take part, travel

-from place to place and record.

-Back in Wales, technology

-is available for everyone.

-But it isn't true

-in Papua New Guinea.

-A chance to record music is rare.

-I'm really looking forward to making

-a collection of recordings there.

-Papua New Guinea

-is very mountainous.

-Most of it is tropical rainforest.

-The rough terrain

-and difficulties in travelling...

-..created isolated populations.

-Almost every valley

-has a culture and identity.

-Although only

-seven million live here...

-..there are more than 800 languages.

-That's 12% of the world's languages.

-The only way to get to the country

-is via the capital, Port Moresby.

-It's totally different

-from the rest of Papua New Guinea.

-There's concrete and some money.

-It has a population of 250,000.

-You live here. Can you

-tell us what your life is like?

-There are 90 provinces.

-People move to the city...

-..from all over the country.

-We're a mixture here.

-But with all the different

-people flooding to the city...

-..it has a name for being one of

-the world's most dangerous places.

-After one night, we're back in the

-plane, on our way to Milne Bay...

-..to learn about the culture

-of the people who live on the coast.

-We're in the small

-village of Bibiko.

-The community has taken us in.

-Thank you very much.

-Everyone is friendly.

-It's a great place.

-The sea is only 100 metres away.

-There's dense jungle all around.

-It's a very interesting place.

-What's the name?

-Limako.

-Limako, a domesticated flying fox.

-Unfortunately, we haven't

-come across music yet.

-There aren't instruments

-in this village.

-But we hope to go round...

-..and see what nearby villages have.

-Good afternoon!

-How are you?

-Do you play music,

-guitar, or anything?

-No.

-I'm doing a small music project.

-I have music recording equipment.

-If you know someone

-who would like to record a little...

-..I'm staying here and would be glad

-to hear local Milne Bay music.

-OK.

-Thank you.

-Have a good day.

-Recording is one of the things

-I most enjoy about making music.

-It might sound a bit pretentious.

-But I like listening back

-to my own music sometimes.

-Not always.

-But sometimes, it takes you back

-to the time you created that music.

-It's like a cameraman taking photos.

-I've brought recording equipment.

-I can listen to the music again.

-If you know anybody

-who likes to make music...

-..we can record them if they want.

-From my experience in Papua New

-Guinea, everybody likes music.

-Although I put out a message,

-I'm starting to worry.

-Time is scarce to develop

-a relationship with musicians.

-I can't stick a mic in someone's

-face and expect them to perform.

-Luck clearly isn't with me...

-..at the country's

-most easterly peninsula.

-The sea is too rough to take

-a boat to an island, as I'd hoped.

-I'm stuck here for the afternoon.

-But dozens are in the same boat.

-There's a lot of buying and selling.

-The fish look good!

-How much is this one?

-That's 60 pence. Let's buy it.

-We saw a bat, a flying fox.

-I didn't know you could eat them.

-I don't know if I want to.

-I'll have a go.

-It's not bad, it's nice.

-It's nicer than it looks.

-It could do with a few spices.

-Tomato sauce.

-Chewing buai nuts is also

-popular all over the country.

-I'll chew a bit.

-It's mixed with lime

-and a mustard stick.

-When I was here before,

-I chewed all the time.

-I don't as much, now I'm older.

-These three together

-are a fairly strong stimulant.

-It makes you very sociable.

-Unfortunately, there's no music yet.

-But I'm confident

-we'll find some soon.

-Cross fingers...

-..we'll find some soon.

-After a good night's sleep

-and wash in the river...

-..our luck starts to change.

-We've had a message to look for a

-man called Kamilo by the main road.

-The music kit is on my back.

-We're going to see

-if anyone is home.

-I've just seen

-a bloke with a guitar.

-That's promising.

-Let's go. He's there.

-How are you?

-How are you?

-

-Yes.

-Good. My name's Ami.

-Good. My name's Ami.

-

-Jerry.

-Nice to meet you. How are you?

-Nice to meet you. How are you?

-

-Fine.

-Nice to see you have a guitar.

-We are looking for music people.

-How are you? Nice to meet you.

-How are you? Nice to meet you.

-

-Nice to meet you too.

-You said the name of your band is?

-Bay Sounds.

-Bay Sounds.

-The music in Alotau, Milne Bay,

-what sort of music do you have here?

-In Milne Bay, local style.

-OK.

-So it's like fingerpicking.

-So it's like fingerpicking.

-

-Yes.

-They don't know this

-in the highlands.

-The Fijians, Samoans, Tongans

-brought music from the Pacific...

-..when the first missionaries

-came to Papua New Guinea.

-Did the missionaries

-come with guitars?

-The first time

-people played guitars.

-When you play the guitar...

-..this is how

-you were taught to start with.

-The Tongans mostly play this type.

-Do you have a song?

-Can you play something for us?

-SINGS

-Nice!

-Thank you.

-Thank you.

-This one a love song?

-Yes, it's a love song, mainly.

-Yes, it's a love song, mainly.

-

-Yeah!

-In the local language?

-In the local language?

-

-Yes, in the Suau language.

-I have in here

-some recording equipment.

-If you want a solo song, I can do.

-If not, don't worry.

-Not today.

-When you go, I'll come back.

-So when you go, contact me.

-So when you go, contact me.

-

-OK.

-Shall I show you how I play?

-Of course.

-# The morning dew turns damp

-# A drunk lad

-at the end of his journey

-# He won't wake up yet #

-I've got a CD for you.

-It's my band from home.

-It's a full band?

-It's a full band?

-

-Yeah.

-It's just a little gift.

-Thank you very much.

-Thank you for having us.

-Thank you.

-Great. It went quite well.

-It taught us a lot

-about the local music.

-At least we've had some music.

-We haven't recorded yet.

-But we had a bit of insight.

-I'm happy. Ideal.

-It's coming together.

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-I'm leaving the coast of Papua

-New Guinea to see old friends...

-..in the country's highlands.

-From the air...

-..it's hard to believe that so many

-people live in these mountains.

-Almost every valley

-has its own language and culture.

-I know from ten years ago...

-..that tension and fighting

-between families or clans is common.

-As we approach

-the Kundiawa area where I lived...

-..I hope nothing bad has happened...

-..and I'll find musicians who trust

-me and will record with me.

-Hey!

-Come, brother!

-LAUGHTER

-It's very emotional to be back.

-It's very nice to see everyone.

-I find it hard to believe.

-Everyone seems to be happy I'm back.

-We always have a crowd following us.

-Are you OK?

-The welcome here is amazing.

-They're the type of people

-who take you in. They're open.

-They want to look after you.

-Pastor!

-But the people who looked after me

-most when I was here...

-..was Pastor Peter's family.

-Seeing them again

-felt like coming home.

-I want to thank you for looking

-after me so well last time.

-You were my son, so I had no choice.

-Amlyn, you're fat. You've changed!

-I'm not fat!

-You're fat! I say you're fat!

-No, you haven't changed.

-You've stayed the same!

-I was introduced to a village girl.

-I had a surprise

-when I heard her name.

-Have you had my name?

-Have you heard about me?

-Yes.

-Her father was a student

-in the music school.

-He named a child after me!

-I didn't know.

-It's a bit of a shock.

-It's nice to see that

-some things haven't changed much.

-Music is still a part of daily life.

-Someone always has a guitar.

-Ten years ago, when I came

-to help start the music school...

-..it was very important

-that the school was for everyone.

-People of any age or clan could make

-music together near the River Wahgi.

-The school was one man's vision.

-He is the local clan chief.

-Not many men in the highlands...

-..are as educated and speak

-English as well as he does.

-This is Thomas Tumun.

-I call him Papa.

-He's the community leader.

-He's an important man.

-He gave me an opportunity.

-You gave me that opportunity

-to be in your music school.

-It was down to your vision.

-How did that idea come about?

-Let me first shake your hand,

-for coming back.

-You turned out to be,

-not just from Wales...

-..and not just here

-to teach music...

-..but you became part of my family.

-I really appreciated and treasured

-this relationship we've had.

-Thank you for coming back.

-Thank you for coming back.

-

-Thank you.

-Shall we go and sit down

-and have a chat?

-We'll go over there.

-So this is Mamma Josephine's house?

-Yes. I have two wives.

-This is Josephine's house.

-That's where you are staying,

-Mamma Evelyn's house.

-So your second wife.

-Yes.

-OK.

-So the Wahgi is very close.

-I've always appreciated

-living beside the river.

-You can do a lot of things here.

-Since I lived here, they adopted

-me as well, as Ami Wahgi.

-Yes.

-We decided to give you this name

-because you were a newcomer.

-You are Ami

-and you lived beside the Wahgi.

-It was fitting that we called

-you that name, Ami Wahgi.

-It's easier to pronounce than Amlyn.

-So when I came here first of all,

-it was a big culture shock for me.

-In my country,

-we have a different way of life.

-People took me in

-as a brother or as a son.

-Although I was very young

-at the time, people trusted me.

-The responsibility of trying

-to create a curriculum...

-..and running the project

-was very valuable.

-Some students came together to

-create a band and record an album.

-Some of their songs went very high

-in this country's charts.

-So if you're asking

-if you did a good job...

-..the result speaks for itself.

-Old fellow!

-The school was also important

-to create a bridge between clans...

-..on both sides of the River Wahgi.

-But a year after I left,

-the money stopped.

-The school had to close.

-I'm going to the other

-side of the Wahgi now...

-..to see the lads from the school.

-We're going to record some music.

-This is Afo Bernard, selling bruce.

-Bruce.

-Tobacco. That's his job.

-So he sits all day.

-I'm a businessman.

-Luke too.

-He was another student.

-When you walk through the area...

-..instruments appear

-out of the blue.

-The keyboard runs on solar power.

-That's the solar panel

-and that's the keyboard.

-It was no trouble

-persuading these lads to record.

-But choosing the right place

-is important for atmosphere.

-We're going

-to make music here today.

-I don't think

-you'll find a better studio.

-Look at that great view.

-They want to show their area.

-They said it's a nice place.

-It looks fine.

-I just hope it doesn't rain

-and spoil the electronic stuff.

-An opportunity to record

-songs is very rare in the area.

-It's obvious,

-with excitement all around.

-This was one of the main reasons

-I wanted to do the project.

-Children, stand behind me.

-When I record, you can't talk.

-Keyboard, can you put it here?

-If it's too close to the microphone,

-it will be too loud.

-We must have a kind of level.

-Fair play, he's going to hold

-the branch to give me some shade.

-OK.

-I'm going to start recording.

-It's turning.

-When you're ready, you can start.

-When you're ready, you can start.

-

-OK. Ten seconds.

-SINGS

-Yeah!

-Oh, boys, that was good!

-Thank you.

-Happy? I think it sounds great.

-Happy? I think it sounds great.

-

-Yes.

-The lads had the idea.

-I thought I'd come back with stuff

-and record them in their village.

-We've just done

-exactly what I wanted.

-I'm very happy.

-It's ideal.

-Can I ask what music means to you?

-We sing about the trees and land...

-..about our rivers and mountains.

-We also sing and call out

-different birds' names.

-We sing about things like that.

-One of the reasons I came back

-was to make recordings on location.

-Now I've done one. I'm very happy!

-Thank you.

-I'm happy.

-We've done a bit of recording.

-I've seen so many people

-and been to amazing places.

-But I also wanted to make music.

-We've started. I'm happy.

-I don't have to worry

-about crossing the river.

-But Afo Bernard and Luke

-from the band I just recorded...

-..wouldn't dare come here.

-They belong to a different clan.

-I'm going for a walk

-with some village lads...

-..all the way through our clan's

-land to the southern boundary...

-..on top of Calin Mountain.

-I feel totally

-at home and safe here.

-But some young lads I knew

-aren't here any more.

-They were killed.

-Sadly, they used to fight,

-with bows and arrows.

-Now, they use guns.

-That's Madmad.

-When someone dies...

-..they put up a memorial.

-Like many young men, he was shot.

-His name was Bangi.

-Families fight,

-then they become clans.

-They speak different languages...

-..even on opposite sides

-of the river.

-I know people from both sides.

-I'm a free man.

-Everyone is happy to talk to me.

-They don't always get along.

-It didn't take long

-to find another young casualty.

-They were fighting each other again.

-Shall we go?

-Clan tensions go back many years.

-It's a complex situation.

-The lads were happy

-to talk about it.

-Is there a lot of fighting?

-Are people being killed

-and houses set on fire?

-Yes, houses are being torched.

-With what do you fight?

-Guns.

-You have guns?

-You have guns?

-

-Yes.

-When you move around,

-do you sometimes get scared?

-Yes.

-When our wives and children

-are sleeping...

-..big men like Mondo

-stand guard until daylight...

-..to prevent them

-coming in and killing us.

-It's hard to believe...

-..that these kind,

-friendly people...

-..who are so happy...

-..but there's always

-trouble between them.

-There are fights and killings, too.

-I can't imagine that.

-Unfortunately, that's the way it is.

-SINGING

-Hey, Mondo. What do the words mean?

-It's a song about this mountain...

-..and about the snow

-that's sometimes on the summit.

-That's why we sing this song.

-Let's try singing it again.

-SINGING

-Music can help communities.

-It certainly helped this community.

-When we opened the school...

-..youngsters from different clans

-came together to play music.

-There was no fighting for a while,

-because of the school.

-SINGING

-We walked to the holy stone

-on the summit.

-Years ago, people came here

-to decorate themselves...

-..before a fight, festival or dance.

-When a lot of people gather...

-..everyone wants

-to sing and shout together.

-I'll climb the rock

-so we can sing out loud.

-SINGS LONG NOTE

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-There's a party to celebrate

-we're here.

-A lot of people will come,

-and those we're making music with.

-I have a lot of work to do first.

-I'd better get a move on.

-They don't eat this sort of food

-every day.

-It's special occasion food.

-They're thanking us for coming. It's

-nice they think so highly of us.

-It's a big thing

-that they slaughtered a pig.

-I hope he gets it first time.

-He's dead.

-Back in my country,

-many children your age...

-..don't know where bacon comes from!

-They think the meat

-comes from a packet!

-It's amazing how close

-I feel to the food.

-They are all butchers.

-I had a chance, too, with a python.

-Put its head on the wood,

-and hit it three times.

-Right children, move!

-Amlyn has got it!

-If you're prepared to eat it,

-you may as well kill it.

-Who would think snake soup

-is this simple?

-It's just tomatoes,

-ginger and onions.

-While the food is being cooked,

-it's time for a bath.

-The feast is worth seeing.

-The food presentation

-might not win Masterchef.

-But first, the speeches.

-I'm so happy you're here.

-You are not like other white men.

-They come in their big cars,

-steal our land to get the gold.

-You're not like that. You understand

-our ways. You're a good man.

-It is nice to hear their speeches.

-Taking out my recording kit...

-..was the perfect end

-to the perfect day.

-They've given me this.

-Now they're

-showing me their pipe skills.

-OK, go for it!

-PIPES

-We're going to the new chapel.

-We're recording

-the congregation singing.

-White men brought religion

-here in the 1950s.

-Religion greatly

-influenced the culture.

-That's why it's harder

-to come across traditional music.

-Right children,

-stand still and sing.

-But the sound of the gospel music is

-different from what we hear at home.

-I'm looking forward to recording it.

-Yes...go back slightly please.

-I'm ready.

-SINGING

-The music doesn't have

-to be perfect.

-The guitars are out of tune.

-There's emotion in the music

-and energy in the singing.

-That's why it sounds so good.

-SINGING

-Hooray!

-Thank you, thank you.

-Right, you come here

-and I'll start to record you.

-He says he wants to shout.

-I'll record him while we're here.

-When you're ready.

-SHOUTS

-LAUGHTER

-This is the traditional way

-of calling the community together.

-I think the old man

-added a few unexpected notes.

-But it worked.

-Everyone wanted to record something.

-SINGING

-Mamma Evelyn and Mamma Ruth

-are two of the congregation.

-They offered to help me

-wash my clothes.

-It was a good time to chat.

-SINGING

-These are the Numan and Wahgi

-rivers.

-This is our drinking water.

-It's better drinking here at night.

-People are not bathing

-or washing clothes.

-The two mothers are showing me

-how to wash clothes.

-Mamma, I'm so happy

-I could come to stay with you.

-Yes, I'm very happy too.

-What does music mean to you?

-When I was young,

-music was important.

-After becoming a wife and mother,

-music is more for worshipping...

-..and then it's very important.

-When you worship...

-..does music bring

-you closer to God?

-Yes.

-Do you sing while you wash clothes

-or when you're in the garden?

-When plants don't grow,

-we worry and sing to God.

-We ask why

-doesn't he help the soil...

-..why does he make us worry.

-It's things like that we sing about.

-Can you sing for me?

-# On the riverbank, water gives life

-# And we are happy

-# Never mind if you live by the sea

-or in the mountains

-# We'll hold hands and dance #

-Tell us the name of your country

-and we'll sing it in the song.

-Cymru.

-Cymru.

-

-Cymru?

-Cymru.

-# Never mind

-if you're from Cymru or PNG

-# We'll hold hands and dance #

-Go for it again!

-# On the riverbank, water gives life

-# And we are happy

-# Never mind

-if you're from Cymru or PNG

-# We'll hold hands and dance #

-Thank you! There's a connection

-between PNG and Wales now.

-We should always come together

-to dance and sing.

-Hey, lads! Where are you going?

-Are you going to the highway?

-# Never mind

-if you're from Cymru or PNG

-# We'll hold hands and dance #

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-I've been here a fortnight.

-The recording has gone well.

-I didn't expect it to be so hard

-to find people to take part.

-Recording this group

-will be very special.

-I lived with Pastor Peter's family

-for a year.

-They treated me like a son.

-Birdsong adds to the music.

-What is that bird?

-It's not a bird, it's a frog.

-Whatever it is,

-it's the sound of nature!

-I'm recording.

-Start when you're ready.

-SINGING

-Mamma Margaret, Gloria,

-Pastor Peter and Jo-Jo...

-..are some of the people that

-mean the most to me in the world.

-I know I'll treasure this recording.

-SINGING

-My relationship with Chief

-Thomas Tumun has become stronger.

-It felt as if

-we were two old friends...

-..when we chatted about how to catch

-trout over breakfast.

-I feel I belong to the area.

-I know more people here

-than back in Gwynedd.

-Despite the changes

-forced on them by white men...

-..they treat me as one of their own.

-We're staying down there.

-The Papua New Guinea highlands

-lay undiscovered until the 1950s.

-People looking for gold

-found four million people here.

-They lived as we did in Wales

-20,000 years ago.

-It's incredible to think

-how quickly things have changed.

-People use mobile phones

-and drink Coca-Cola.

-To find out about the culture

-that was here...

-..before the white men came...

-..I'm going to the country's biggest

-cultural festival, the Hagen Show.

-Clans from all over

-the country have travelled here.

-It was described as the most

-colourful event on the planet.

-More than 50,000 local people

-will visit over the weekend.

-We're going backstage

-to see the preparations.

-Your costumes look good.

-Are they your region's clothes?

-Is it only for the show

-that you dress like this?

-You used to dress like this

-all the time years ago?

-It's only for Sing Sing

-that we're like this now.

-Sing Sing is this sort of event.

-It's hotting up on the main field.

-SINGING AND DRUMS

-It's a singing and dancing

-competition.

-It's like a disorganized eisteddfod,

-with no caravans.

-SINGING

-There are too many drums

-to record anything today.

-I can enjoy the experience.

-The show started 50 years ago.

-From the start, it's been a place

-where people meet each other.

-The white men started it, because

-of the fighting between clans.

-More than 90 clans have come

-from far and wide...

-..to peacefully

-celebrate their culture.

-It's great.

-PIPES

-Good sound!

-You know how

-to keep rhythm together.

-Can many people still play these?

-No, only the old men like us

-still play.

-Youngsters can't play

-the old instruments.

-The show is an example...

-..of how traditions and modern life

-meet in Papua New Guinea.

-They are in traditional costumes.

-But the show

-is sponsored by Vodafone.

-It's very hot

-and I'm sweating buckets.

-I'm not surprised

-some of them are tired.

-They've danced and played drums

-non-stop all day.

-SINGING

-After the Hagen Show...

-..I'm so glad I succeeded

-to record Kundiawa music.

-SINGING

-In twenty years' time...

-..listening to the music

-will bring back memories.

-That's the thing

-with recording music or filming.

-Once it's done, it's done.

-No-one can take it away from you.

-SINGING

-It's almost time to leave.

-The community has gathered.

-We've been here

-for quite a long time.

-I've had a fantastic time.

-Everyone has been incredibly kind.

-They described their culture to me.

-I'll miss these people.

-It's time to go.

-I won't forget you.

-I'll be the other side of the world,

-thinking about you.

-I have so many mothers, fathers,

-sisters and brothers here now.

-I'll give the Pastor copies

-of the CD I recorded with you.

-Will you share the music?

-Saying goodbye is hard.

-I will come back.

-It's hard because

-it's so far from home.

-Some faces won't be here

-the next time.

-SINGING

-I will come back.

-The country is part of me.

-You're not going forever.

-I'll see you again before I die.

-I feel privileged. Money couldn't

-buy what these people gave me.

-People aren't individuals here.

-They work in a group,

-a team, a clan.

-# Hosanna

-# Hallelujah

-# Hosanna

-# Hallelujah

-# Hosanna

-# Hallelujah #

-Clans and language

-can separate people.

-But music brings people together.

-# Hosanna

-# Hallelujah #

-It's a complex country...

-..but it works.

-It's an amazing place.

-Amazing.

-# Hallelujah #

-# Hallelujah #

-PIPES

-S4C Subtitles by Gwead

-.