Dyffryn Arms, Cwm Gwaun Straeon Tafarn


Dyffryn Arms, Cwm Gwaun

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Transcript


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-Welcome to Straeon Tafarn,

-with me, Dewi Pws Morris.

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-I don't usually go to pubs!

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-Each day, I realize how lucky I am.

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-I tour Wales with the band Radwm...

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-..and meet a host

-of interesting characters.

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-Today, I'm in my favourite county

-in the wild west.

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-It's a county full of mystery

-and enchantment.

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-Where am I?

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-It has a cathedral

-that's named after me.

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-Tyddewi, or St David's.

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-Yes, I'm in Pembrokeshire.

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-I can't wait to arrive

-at the Dyffryn Arms...

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-..or Tafarn Bessie,

-as it's known in the Gwaun Valley.

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-Bessie is certainly the boss here.

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-What?

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-What?

-

-Yes, Bessie hears everything.

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-Her full name is Elizabeth Davies.

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-Bessie has run this legendary pub

-for over 60 years.

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-Bessie, I've been waiting a while.

-Any chance of a pint?

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-I'll sell you a pint,

-but a half is enough for you!

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-You're the boss, Bessie!

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-How much is that?

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-How much is that?

-

-1.25, please.

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-Goodness me, that's expensive.

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-Go somewhere else to drink then!

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-Thank you.

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-Good health!

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-Good health!

-

-Horses' health!

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-Good health to every Welshman.

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-What's the next line?

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-What's the next line?

-

-BLEEP

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-You didn't expect that!

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-You're not meant to say things

-like that on television, Bessie!

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-I'd better sober up as the clever

-Dr John Bwlchllan has arrived!

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-What makes the Gwaun Valley

-so unusual, John?

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-Traditions such as the Old New Year

-and home brewing...

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-..and the crowning glory

-of the Preseli mountains.

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-Waldo described them as a wall

-in all independence of mind.

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-Waldo understood

-the secret of this area.

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-It's magical and mysterious.

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-It's home to some

-of Wales's oldest rocks.

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-It's said that people

-who sailed to Ireland...

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-..saw the Preseli

-rising from the sea...

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-..and decided that the gods

-lived on its peaks.

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-The gods were lucky

-to live on the Preseli.

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-There has been magic on the hills

-of Dyfed from a very early age.

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-People recognized this magic

-some 5,000 years ago...

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-..when they moved stones

-from this area to Stonehenge.

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-They rightly believed that this part

-of the world was holy!

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-John didn't have to sell the Preseli

-to me, because I love the area.

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-I arranged to meet Alun Davies

-to hear more about its history.

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-The area has many stories.

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-Carn Ingli was a holy mountain

-at the onset of Christianity.

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-Brynach was the first missionary

-in the area.

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-It's believed that Brynach

-was great friends with St David.

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-David is linked with the dove,

-which is a symbol of peace.

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-Brynach is associated

-with the cuckoo.

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-Brynach came from Ireland.

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-Brynach and David would go

-to the summit of Carn Ingli...

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-..to discuss and pray

-and to speak with the angels.

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-Alun said that this magical

-Christian tradition...

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-..has continued

-through the centuries.

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-William Williams Pantycelyn

-stayed at Llwyngwair Manor.

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-It was an important manor

-at that time.

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-John Wesley had visited

-seven times before him.

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-Williams was standing

-in the window one night...

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-..and witnessed the clouds

-descending over Carn Ingli.

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-It's believed that this was

-when he composed the hymn...

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-"O'er those gloomy hills

-of darkness ...

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-"..Look, my soul;

-be still, and gaze."

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-Carn Ingli is known locally

-as the mountain of angels.

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-It lies nobly

-like a sleeping maiden.

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-That's enough romance.

-A pub doesn't run itself.

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-Bessie had a job for me!

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-Go and cut some firewood for me.

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-Go and cut some firewood for me.

-

-Yes, miss!

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-Here you are, miss.

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-You took so long,

-I thought you'd gone to London!

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-Do you use firelighters?

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-I can't afford firelighters.

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-Next Christmas,

-I'll buy you some firelighters.

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-I don't need them.

-I can light a fire without them.

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-Yes, Bessie is very independent.

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-This is true of the entire area.

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-They don't celebrate New Year's Eve

-like you and I!

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-They stick to the Old New Year.

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-What was the Old New Year?

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-The Gregorian calendar.

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-The Gregorian calendar.

-

-The Gregorian calendar?

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-How was that different?

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-The year started on 13th January.

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-Not the first, but the 13th.

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-And you keep to that tradition?

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-And you keep to that tradition?

-

-Yes.

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-It passes the time in the winter.

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-There are better ways to spend

-the winter, but that's another story!

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-I wanted to know more

-about the Old New Year...

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-..so I spoke to Bonnie Davies,

-who's an expert in these matters.

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-Pope Gregory XIII is to blame

-- we have to blame somebody!

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-He changed the calendar in 1582.

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-In 1752, this country

-adopted the calendar.

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-By adopting it,

-they lost twelve days of the year.

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-As a result, 1st January

-fell on 13th January.

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-The people of the Gwaun Valley

-chose to celebrate on that day...

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-..and they called

-it the Old New Year.

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-Gwaun Valley folk are stubborn.

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-Gwaun Valley folk are stubborn.

-

-Yes, very stubborn.

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-It all sounds very odd,

-and I don't doubt Bonnie.

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-Dr Rhys Morris, a member

-of the Astrophysics Group...

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-..at Bristol University,

-told me more.

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-Before the change, it must

-have been a chaotic situation.

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-Yes, as India and Japan

-had their own calendars.

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-Sweden followed a slower pace

-over 40 years.

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-Over those 40 years...

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-..their date differed to the date

-in Norway by a few days...

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-..and it increased every four years.

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-I'm totally confused -

-what day is it today?

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-I've forgotten too!

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-There were variations

-in Britain too.

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-Ireland followed their own scheme

-for a while, as did Scotland...

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-..but they all merged eventually.

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-However, some places continue

-to celebrate the Old New Year.

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-Why do you have

-an interest in calendars?

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-I'm interested in the link

-with the movement of the stars.

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-Are you a Welsh-speaking

-Russell Grant?

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-No, not at all. I left my hat

-and cloak in the car today!

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-Thanks, Doctor.

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-I think it's wonderful that people

-across Wales have different customs.

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-And why not celebrate

-the Old New Year later in the year?

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-It makes the place more unique.

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-I wondered whether there were songs

-associated with the event.

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-After some coaxing,

-Bonnie agreed to sing a song...

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-..that mentioned 13th January,

-but I didn't pay her!

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-# Dawn has broken on New Year's Day,

-it's an amazing day to remember

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-# A day of giving and receiving

-is the 13th day of the year

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-# Give generously to the poor,

-give generously to the poor

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-# The faithful who present gifts

-are the ones who will receive #

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-Too many of these traditions

-are disappearing.

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-Long live the Old New Year

-in the Gwaun Valley.

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-Keep it up, boys!

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-.

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-888

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-888

-

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-It's great to tour Wales with Radwm

-and hear the local stories.

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-At Tafarn Bessie in the Gwaun Valley,

-they still mark the Old New Year.

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-In the 1960s, this drew

-the attention of the BBC in London.

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-Fyfe Robertson came here

-to film the celebrations.

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-Bessie has a strong opinion

-about the film.

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-It was very stupid.

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-They didn't come here.

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-Where were they?

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-Where were they?

-

-At the farm on the mountain.

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-They visited all the farms.

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-They had a lot of cheek!

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-# Boom-bah, boom-bah,

-boom-bah doodle eh

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-# Boom-bah, boom-bah, bey-oh

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-# I'd be better off... #

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-If you want to hear this song,

-you'll have to go a long way....

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-..to the place where it was composed

-before music took to ink.

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-To a little valley in the westerly

-tip of Pembrokeshire in Wales.

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-He was a Scotsman with a beard.

-I can see him now.

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-On the night of the filming,

-I was with my parents and brother.

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-We would visit Ffynnondici

-every year.

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-We sang at the door.

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-Cameras appeared and someone asked,

-"Will you do that again?"

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-We didn't mind at first, but it

-got annoying by the sixth time!

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-# Once again in dear Wales #

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-They were disturbing us.

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-Was there a lot of people present?

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-Was there a lot of people present?

-

-The place was heaving!

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-There was so much food

-lined up on the table.

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-You can't imagine the food

-and it had to be eaten.

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-Did Fyfe Robertson enjoy himself?

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-Did Fyfe Robertson enjoy himself?

-

-Oh, yes.

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-He learnt that the home brew

-wasn't for the faint-hearted.

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-He was literally under the table

-before the end of the night.

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-After Fyfe's film was broadcast...

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-..the tradition

-of the Old New Year almost ended.

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-Hundreds flocked to the area

-and the locals felt under siege.

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-Everyone wanted to celebrate

-and sample the local home brew.

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-What is this beer?

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-It's barley that's been allowed

-to soak in water for four hours.

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-More water is added

-before it's drained from the tap.

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-Do you serve it?

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-Do you serve it?

-

-Not at all... no way!

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-No, Bessie doesn't serve

-this traditional local brew.

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-The tranquillity

-of the pub was shattered...

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-..with the arrival of an expert

-in Pembrokeshire beer.

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-Lilwen McAllister

-had arrived to tell me more.

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-I didn't realize that it was

-such a long and complicated process.

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-Hello!

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-To make a brew or a 'macsad'...

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-To make a brew or a 'macsad'...

-

-Macsad? OK.

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-..you need a 'winshin' of malt,

-ten pounds of sugar.

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-A 'winshin' of malt?

-What's a 'winshin'?

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-A bushel.

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-A bushel.

-

-OK, great.

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-Then you need some water, of course.

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-I'd say you need

-about 30 gallons of water...

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-..and a pound of hops.

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-I'm with you so far, I think!

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-Next, you need a barrel...

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-..and some gorse

-that acts as a strainer.

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-Then you add boiling water

-over the gorse...

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-You've lost me, Lilwen. I didn't

-realize it was so complicated.

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-Gorse, malt, leave it overnight,

-boil it, yeast, sugar.

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-Leave this to soak...

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-All I wanted to know

-was when I could drink it!

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-You could have a glass after lunch.

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-In the winter, if you were out

-working on the farm...

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-..a saucepan full of the drink

-would be placed on the fire.

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-Add some sugar and heat it up.

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-I'm telling you,

-it really warmed you up.

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-You could drink it warm?

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-You could drink it warm?

-

-Yes, you could.

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-If you were suffering with a cold...

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-..the best medicine

-was the warmed beer.

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-Is it unique to this area?

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-Is it unique to this area?

-

-Yes.

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-Things have changed

-since the breathalyser.

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-You don't know its strength.

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-Is it strong?

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-Is it strong?

-

-Yes, very strong.

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-The less water you add,

-the stronger the drink.

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-Have you got a spare bottle?

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-Have you got a spare bottle?

-

-You'll have to call by.

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-I will when I get the chance,

-Lilwen!

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-Can I have a hug?

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-That warmed the heart.

-I hope the wife isn't watching!

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-This place is full of romance.

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-A love story

-is always heart-warming....

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-..but not when there's

-an unexpected conclusion.

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-Many years ago, a beautiful maiden

-lived in the mansion of Pontfaen.

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-A local boy called Morris

-fell madly in love with her...

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-..and they started a relationship.

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-However, by accident, he heard

-that she had another lover.

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-Both men decided to meet on top

-of the mountain to resolve the issue.

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-A ferocious and bloody fight ensued.

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-In the end,

-Morris fell after a severe blow.

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-In order to hide the murder, Morris

-was buried on top of the mountain.

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-According to the tale...

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-..Morris' body lies beneath

-this stone at Bedd Morris.

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-These mountains

-have witnessed many battles.

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-We almost lost the Preseli

-to the armed forces in the 1950s...

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-..until the Battle of the Preseli.

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-Journalist Hefin Wyn stopped by

-for a pint and to tell the story.

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-What was this battle?

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-British and American soldiers

-had been training on the Presel...

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-..during World War II.

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-At the end of the war,

-the War Office wanted the site...

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-..as a permanent location

-for military training...

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-..following its use during the war.

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-They wanted to acquire

-some 16,000 acres on the Preseli.

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-It meant that the mountain road

-from Haverfordwest to Cardigan...

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-..would often be closed

-due to the firing.

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-Once they obtained the area...

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-..recent secret documentation

-has been unearthed...

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-..revealing that the area was to be

-extended into the Gwaun Valley.

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-This meant over 200 farms

-would lose their livelihood.

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-How did they prevent it?

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-The strength of the people

-led by schoolmasters...

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-..and local Nonconformist ministers.

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-They strongly opposed this move...

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-..and formed a committee

-to safeguard the Preseli...

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-..as opposed to defending them.

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-The wording was important.

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-The term 'defend'

-has military connotations.

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-They wanted to protect

-and preserve the area.

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-These ministers viewed this

-as a moral battle.

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-They were supported

-by chapelgoers and local residents.

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-Waldo wrote a poem too.

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-Waldo wrote a poem too.

-

-Yes, he wrote the poem Preseli.

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-Where was Waldo during the campaign?

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-He didn't attend any public meeting

-because he was living in Kimbolton.

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-Within a fortnight of hearing

-about the threat...

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-..the poem Preseli was published

-on the front page of Y Faner.

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-It was a real inspiration

-to the residents.

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-"My Wales, and land of brotherhood,

-my cry, my religion

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-"The world's only balm,

-her mission, her challenge

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-"Pearl of the infinite hour

-held hostage by time

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-"Hope of the long course

-on the short turning

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-"This was my window,

-the harvesting and the shearing

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-"I saw order in my place yonder

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-"There is roar, there is rape

-through windowless forest

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-"Let us guard the wall

-against the beast

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-"Let us guard the well

-against the mire!"

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-Waldo's words,

-the Preseli's amazing landscape...

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-..and the magical atmosphere

-at Tafarn Bessie have inspired me.

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-I've written my first englyn,

-and it's to Bessie.

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-"We'll walk together in the night

-in search of fun and merriment

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-"Tonight, for me, there's mead

-and Bass with our dear Bessie."

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-Do you like it?

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-Do you like it?

-

-Yes, very good.

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-Thank you very much.

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-Radwm has arrived

-and the place is filling up.

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-Hmmm, we've got a problem.

-There isn't enough room in the inn!

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-It's OK. We'll sing outside.

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-Tonight's song

-is a personal favourite...

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-..called Os Na Ddaw

-Yr Haf I Dresaith!

0:19:570:20:00

-# If the summer

-doesn't come to Tresaith

0:20:010:20:04

-# If the spring doesn't come either

0:20:040:20:08

-# If nobody else comes to our beach

0:20:080:20:11

-# It's still heaven

-in our little village

0:20:120:20:15

-# No fat tourists on the sand

0:20:160:20:19

-# Who bring their dogs to the sea

0:20:190:20:22

-# No screaming kids

-from Wolverhampton

0:20:240:20:26

-# And Rhyl!

0:20:270:20:28

-# Complaining that the water is cold

0:20:280:20:31

-# If the summer

-doesn't come to Tresaith

0:20:310:20:35

-# If the spring doesn't come either

0:20:350:20:38

-# If nobody else comes to our beach

0:20:390:20:42

-# It's still heaven

-in our little village

0:20:430:20:47

-# The Ship's garden

-is full of the locals

0:20:470:20:51

-# Steve, Phil and Ianto by the bar

0:20:510:20:54

-# No half an hour wait for a beer

0:20:540:20:58

-# Or a Cockney yelling

0:20:580:21:00

-# Or a Cockney yelling

-

-# Alright, mate!

0:21:000:21:02

-# If the summer

-doesn't come to Tresaith

0:21:020:21:06

-# If the spring doesn't come either

0:21:060:21:09

-# If nobody else comes to our beach

0:21:100:21:13

-# It's still heaven

-in our little village - Helen!

0:21:130:21:17

-INSTRUMENTAL

0:21:190:21:22

-Here we go!

0:21:310:21:33

-# If the summer

-doesn't come to Tresaith

0:21:330:21:36

-# If the spring doesn't come either

0:21:370:21:40

-# If nobody else comes to our beach

0:21:400:21:44

-# It's still heaven

-in our little village

0:21:440:21:47

-# Every summer,

-the bald bobby comes to the village

0:21:470:21:51

-# To book the cars

-that have parked untidily

0:21:520:21:55

-# A ticket for every one

-with GB on its rear

0:21:560:21:59

-# They call it a tourist tax

-- here we go!

0:21:590:22:03

-# If the summer

-doesn't come to Tresaith

0:22:040:22:06

-# If the spring doesn't come either

0:22:070:22:10

-# If nobody else comes to our beach

0:22:110:22:14

-# It's still heaven

-in our little village - sing along!

0:22:140:22:18

-# If the summer

-doesn't come to Tresaith

0:22:180:22:22

-# If the spring doesn't come either

0:22:220:22:26

-# If nobody else comes to our beach

0:22:260:22:29

-# It's still heaven

-in our little village #

0:22:290:22:33

-Thank you very much.

0:22:360:22:38

-Oh, I enjoyed that gig.

0:22:440:22:46

-"I was welcomed in the valley

-with fine ale, a song and spree

0:22:470:22:51

-"It was like heaven on earth

-at the pub of our Bessie!"

0:22:510:22:56

-Goodnight.

0:22:560:22:58

-All together...

0:23:000:23:02

-# Lleucu Llwyd, you are beautiful

0:23:020:23:07

-# Lleucu Llwyd,

-you're worth the world to me

0:23:070:23:11

-# Lleucu Llwyd, you're an angel

0:23:120:23:17

-# Lleucu Llwyd,

-I love you, you, you #

0:23:170:23:23

-S4C subtitles by Tinopolis

0:23:310:23:33

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0:23:330:23:33

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