Penllwyn Du, Llangoedmor Straeon Tafarn


Penllwyn Du, Llangoedmor

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Transcript


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-Subtitles

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-Hello, how are you?

-Welcome to Straeon Tafarn.

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-I'm touring Wales to raise a glass

-to our interesting establishments.

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-It's great to be able

-to appreciate good company...

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-..enjoy some wonderful stories, some

-entertainment and a pint or two.

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-Just a pint or two.

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-CAR HORN

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-That was Dai.

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-This week, I'm in an area

-that's very familiar.

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-It's between Newcastle Emlyn

-and Cardigan.

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-Many years ago, this pub

-was on a busy crossroads...

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-..on a main road

-from North to South Wales.

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-At that time...

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-..bodies of bandits could be seen

-hanging above those crossroads.

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-Estate agents!

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-No... no!

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-The fields near the tavern saw the

-greatest battle in Welsh history...

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-..in the 12th century.

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-It's the first recorded battle where

-longbows were employed by knights.

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-Where am I?

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-It's the Penllwyndu Inn

-at Llangoedmor...

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-..where I'm meeting the chief bard,

-Idris Reynolds...

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-..or Id as I like to call him!

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-Welcome to the programme,

-Idris Reynolds.

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-What can you tell me

-about the name of Llangoedmor?

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-Llangoedmor means

-the church of the great wood.

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-It was a woody area that

-is still famous for its oak trees.

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-This was hunting land.

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-People hunted here

-since the days of the Mabinogion.

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-What about the tavern's name

-of Penllwyndu?

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-It was originally known as

-Penllwyn yr Eirin Duon.

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-This was shortened

-to Penllwyndu Eirin...

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-..and later became Penllwyndu.

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-These days, it's just the Pen!

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-What do we know about

-the history of the area?

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-I'm told that it is mentioned

-in the Mabinogion.

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-T Llew Jones is insistent...

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-..that Pwyll's court wasn't

-in Narberth in Pembrokeshire...

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-..but at Crug Mawr near Cardigan.

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-He believes that

-from the top of Crug Mawr...

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-..Pwyll saw Rhiannon

-riding her shining white horse.

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-He offers many claims

-to prove this fact.

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-Banc y Warren is surrounded

-by the Arberth Stream.

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-He claims that this

-is the source of the name.

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-The A487 road

-also passes Banc y Warren.

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-It connects North and South Wales.

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-He claims the main roads of today

-were formed in the past.

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-Rhiannon was on this road.

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-I'm sure T Llew upset a lot

-of people in Pembrokeshire!

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-Yes, but the people

-of Cardigan support his claims.

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-They would!

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-Was it recorded?

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-Was it recorded?

-

-Yes, it's mentioned in this book.

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-"And he set out

-that night from Arberth...

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-"..and came as far

-as Pen Llwyn Diarwya...

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-"..and there he was that night."

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-So he probably stayed here.

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-So he probably stayed here.

-

-Yes, he's stayed here.

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-Its current regulars know nothing

-of the pub's history prior to 1900.

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-It hasn't always been

-a public drinking house.

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-The Penllwyndu

-was a private residence at one time.

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-At the start of the century...

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-..the tavern was run by Florrie

-and Dai Blaeneifed's family.

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-You have family ties

-with this place.

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-Where does it all start, Florrie?

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-My great-grandfather

-rented the tavern...

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-..the forge, two cottages and farm

-from the Blaenpant Estate.

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-Was the Blaenpant Estate large?

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-Was the Blaenpant Estate large?

-

-Yes, it was.

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-Dat-cu lived here

-and ran it as a public house.

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-In 1914, he decided to buy it all

-from the Blaenpant Estate.

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-They were selling off

-parts of the estate...

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-..and that was when Dat-cu

-bought the place.

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-He must have been wealthy

-to buy this place.

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-Dat-cu was a farmer's son and one

-of five so he wasn't very wealthy.

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-As a result of taxation,

-they had to sell.

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-Dat-cu went to get a loan

-or a mortgage.

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-It was peanuts

-when you think about it today.

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-From his papers, we believe

-it was just short of 2,000.

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-He couldn't go to NatWest Bank

-for the loan.

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-People had private mortgages

-in those days.

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-They borrowed from the wealthy,

-such as a local doctor.

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-The banks wouldn't support them

-as they had no backing.

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-I'm sure this place has changed.

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-Yes, it's changed a lot.

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-In the olden days

-when it was a pub...

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-..the brewery was over there and

-there was only room for one floor.

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-The staircase

-down to the brewery...

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-..is the original staircase.

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-This place has changed a lot.

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-The front door was in the middle.

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-The front door was in the middle.

-

-There's a window there now.

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-Yes, and it opened

-to reveal a staircase.

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-I remember it as a house

-and not a tavern.

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-This was the kitchen and the

-front room was on the other side.

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-They kept whisky in the room at

-the back so it was the whisky room.

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-They kept it but didn't drink it.

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-They kept it but didn't drink it.

-

-Oh, no. Of course not!

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-My sister has told you about

-the onsite brewery.

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-Ifor Rees was working as a farmhand

-at Blaeneifed Farm.

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-He got married

-but had nowhere to live.

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-It was at that time that Dat-cu

-decided to get the boys in.

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-They removed the roof and

-raised the walls to create a house.

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-It's much bigger these days.

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-The original house

-had a small kitchen and pantry...

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-..and two very small bedrooms but

-at least they had somewhere to live.

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-It was the old Welsh way of life.

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-It was the old Welsh way of life.

-

-Yes, that's right.

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-Let's toast that and the Penllwyndu.

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-Penllwyndu!

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-The tavern was closed

-for almost 60 years...

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-..so some of

-the Penllwyndu's history is lost.

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-An article in the

-Carmarthen Journal from 1916...

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-..blames the Cold Water Brigade

-or abstainers from Llechryd!

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-Listen to this from Twm Barels.

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-"I hear two lads from Llechryd

-have objected to the licence.

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-"What on earth do these men want?

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-"What has Penllwyndu

-got to do with Llechryd?

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-"We only need one pub

-at Penllwyndu...

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-"..but they need two in Llechryd!

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-"There's some funny things

-to say about Penllwyndu.

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-"Wait and see, Steward Askwith!"

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-This Twm Barels

-was a real character.

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-You could say he was a vagrant.

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-He travelled around

-fixing umbrellas.

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-On his travels, I suspect he stopped

-in various pubs for a pint or two.

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-At Penllwyndu, the abstainers

-wanted to close the tavern.

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-DEWI HISSES

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-Twm Barels spoke out about this.

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-He said that the Cold Water Brigade

-wanted to close the tavern...

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-..but there were many taverns

-in Llechryd and Cardigan.

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-He couldn't understand

-why they wanted to close this pub.

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-The tone of the article suggests

-that he didn't like abstainers.

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-But Twm enjoyed going to pubs.

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-But Twm enjoyed going to pubs.

-

-Yes, I'm sure he did.

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-This pub

-sits on quite a busy road...

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-..so he could have

-passed here quite frequently.

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-He wasn't a fan of the abstainers.

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-But he was a colourful character.

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-But he was a colourful character.

-

-Yes, I would have thought so.

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-This was also a time when taverns

-were quite raucous places.

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-Dafydd ap Gwilym

-even wrote a famous poem...

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-..called Trafferth Mewn Tafarn.

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-He had seen

-a beautiful lady in a pub...

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-..and arranged to meet her

-after dark.

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-Everyone was in bed.

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-Three Englishmen,

-Dafydd ap Gwilym and the lady...

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-..had all gone

-to their separate rooms.

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-Dafydd got up in the night

-so he could meet the lady...

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-..but he knocked over the furniture

-and it clattered all over the place.

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-The three Englishmen wake up

-and think they are being robbed.

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-They knew Dafydd was there.

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-"Taffy is a Welshman,

-Taffy is a thief!"

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-They chase Dafydd out of the pub

-before he meets the young lady.

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-It didn't work at all.

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-There were these problems

-in the taverns.

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-The abstainers wanted to cut down

-on all the drinking and rowdiness.

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-To the abstainers!

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-The Penllwyndu that sits between

-Newcastle Emlyn and Cardigan...

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-..has a mysterious history.

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-One thing is certain, the Welsh

-have roamed this land for centuries.

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-Some 150 years ago, Welsh was the

-only language heard in this area.

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-We still stand our ground.

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-But we had to fight to secure

-our language and culture...

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-..when the Normans landed in 1136

-and seized this entire area.

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-There were fierce battles in the

-fields around Banc y Warren...

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-..but the enemy was beaten...

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-..and they fled to Cardigan as fast

-as their feet could carry them.

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-Where was the exact spot of

-the Battle of Crug Mawr, Richard?

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-It was fought on this very land.

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-Some 8,000 of the Welsh

-faced the same amount of Normans.

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-The Southwalians and Northwalians

-joined forces.

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-Owain Gwynedd and his men fought

-under the flag of the three eagles.

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-Gruffydd ap Rhys of Deheubarth

-was flying the golden lion flag.

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-They also implemented a new weapon

-which was the longbow...

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-..and they defeated the Normans.

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-This was also the first battle

-where they used horses.

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-Why did they fight here?

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-I suspect it's because there's a lot

-of sand in this area.

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-It helped the horses manoeuvre.

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-The battle was fought in the autumn

-so the land was wet.

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-The lower land is quite heavy

-due to its clay content...

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-..so I suspect the battle

-was further west.

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-The flags would have been

-waving in the wind...

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-..and I'm sure it was noisy

-but we won in the end.

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-There's a wonderful viewpoint

-from here.

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-Gruffydd and Owain stood on this

-spot and delivered their orders.

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-The Welsh thrashed them.

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-Yes, they chased them

-all the way to Cardigan.

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-They crossed the wooden bridge

-but it collapsed under their weight.

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-It's said that you could cross the

-river by walking on the dead bodies.

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-Is this mound made entirely of sand?

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-Yes, and this is very interesting.

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-During the last Ice Age...

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-..the glaciers reached this point

-and pushed the heavy soil aside.

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-As the glaciers melted...

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-..the sand in the ice

-was dumped in this area.

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-Is this all sand?

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-Is this all sand?

-

-Yes, that's right.

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-It's certainly historic.

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-It's certainly historic.

-

-And beautiful with it!

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-The area was home to heroes

-but as the sign behind suggests...

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-..it housed scoundrels too!

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-Between you and me...

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-..some of them

-still frequent the Penllwyndu!

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-The pub has seen many changes.

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-After the owner chose to restore

-the current sign...

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-..Nia, his daughter,

-noticed something interesting...

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-..as she set to work.

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-You were commissioned

-to clean the pub's sign, Nia.

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-What's the story?

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-My father knew of my work in London.

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-It's conservation, restoration,

-gilding, graining and marbling.

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-I've worked in stately homes,

-The Ritz, Claridges and so on.

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-What caught your eye

-when you started restoring the sign?

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-The central gallows.

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-I grew up with the sign and didn't

-know the central gallows was there.

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-I could only see the main gallows

-in the foreground...

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-..and the Preseli Mountains

-are in the background.

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-When I started the cleaning...

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-..I discovered a lot

-of different paint systems...

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-..and colours

-that created a depth of field.

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-I suspect it hadn't been spotted

-when it was last cleaned.

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-They probably thought

-it was something odd...

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-..and painted over it.

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-You could only see the big one.

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-You could only see the big one.

-

-Yes, that's right.

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-It was quite special

-to find something new.

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-It's a gift or a message

-from the picture.

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-Have you made any changes

-to the picture?

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-Yes, I have.

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-I added some birds.

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-Did you add the crows?

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-Yes, and it's down to my father.

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-When I was working on it,

-my father told me not to change it.

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-"I own it. It belongs to Penllwyndu

-and I want it perfect," he said.

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-"Yes, Dad. Don't worry.

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-"I've worked for Her Majesty, Dad."

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-"I own it and it should

-hang outside Penllwyndu."

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-"Daddy, I've got to do it and it was

-in the house when I was growing up."

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-So I decided to add the birds.

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-Did your father pay you?

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-Did your father pay you?

-

-No.

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-So your father is a cheapskate.

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-So your father is a cheapskate.

-

-No, Dad is a Cardi!

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-Well done.

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-One story has been passed down

-the generations.

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-It's about a man who met his end

-on Banc y Warren some 200 years ago.

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-Sion Philip refused to sell

-this field to a landowner...

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-..following an argument.

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-But the landowner wanted this field

-no matter the cost.

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-The landowner

-resorted to foul means.

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-Whilst Sion was asleep,

-a ram was lowered down his chimney.

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-The following morning,

-the sheriff arrested Sion.

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-Sheep stealing was a felony

-punishable by death in those days...

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-..so Sion was hanged

-despite being totally innocent.

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-They hanged his body

-as a deterrent for other thieves.

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-I wonder if he was hanged

-outside the Penllwyndu.

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-People were hanged nearby.

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-Yes, at Banc y Warren near Penparc

-which is about a mile away.

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-You have mentioned Sion Philip.

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-We believe that Sion Philip

-was hanged there.

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-He was hanged for stealing a sheep.

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-Sheep rustling was a common practice

-in the 18th century.

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-The theft of sheep

-from common land...

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-..is the same as fish poaching...

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-..or the hunting of rabbits.

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-People thought they had the right

-to take these sheep...

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-..but the punishment

-for stealing sheep was dreadful.

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-There was an array of penalties.

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-Many people were hanged.

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-There were gibbets at this tavern.

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-People were hanged on the gallows

-in chains...

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-..and left to rot.

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-The crows

-would feast on the bodies...

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-..of the people

-who were hanging on the gallows.

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-This wasn't a long time ago.

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-No, this was in the 18th century...

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-..so it was about 250 years ago

-and more.

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-They park in Tresaith

-wherever they want and pay 5.

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-Are you sure?

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-Bring gibbets back to Tresaith!

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-I've enjoyed learning about

-the mysteries of the Penllwyndu...

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-..and had a wonderful welcome.

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-Once again, I've learnt

-about heroes and blackguards.

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-I've found three old friends to join

-me in one of my favourite songs.

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-Thank you for coming here

-on such a fine night.

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-Welcome to the Penllwyndu.

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-We're going to sing Os

-and it goes like this!

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-# If the summer

-doesn't come to Tresaith

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-# If the spring doesn't come either

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-# If nobody else comes to our beach

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-# It's still heaven

-in our little village

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-# No fat tourists on the sand

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-# Who bring their dogs to the sea

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-# No loud kids from Wolverhampton

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-# No loud kids from Wolverhampton

-

-# And Rhyl!

0:20:240:20:25

-# Complaining that the water is cold

0:20:250:20:28

-# If the summer

-doesn't come to Tresaith

0:20:290:20:32

-# If the spring doesn't come either

0:20:320:20:36

-# If nobody else comes to our beach

0:20:360:20:40

-# It's still heaven

-in our little village

0:20:400:20:44

-# The Ship's garden

-is full of the locals

0:20:450:20:48

-# Steve, Phil and Ianto at the bar

0:20:480:20:52

-# No 30 minutes wait for a beer

0:20:520:20:54

-# Or a Cockney yelling

0:20:550:20:58

-# Or a Cockney yelling

-

-# Alright, mate!

0:20:580:20:59

-# If the summer

-doesn't come to Tresaith

0:21:000:21:03

-# If the spring doesn't come either

0:21:040:21:07

-# If nobody else comes to our beach

0:21:070:21:10

-# It's still heaven in

-our little village - Helen!

0:21:110:21:14

-INSTRUMENTAL

0:21:150:21:17

-# If the summer

-doesn't come to Tresaith

0:21:290:21:33

-# If the spring doesn't come either

0:21:340:21:37

-# If nobody else comes to our beach

0:21:370:21:40

-# It's still heaven

-in our little village

0:21:410:21:45

-# Every spring,

-the bald bobby comes to the village

0:21:450:21:48

-# To book the cars

-that have parked untidily

0:21:490:21:52

-# A ticket for all

-with GB on its rear

0:21:530:21:55

-# They call it the tourist tax

0:21:560:21:58

-# If the summer

-doesn't come to Tresaith

0:21:590:22:03

-# If the spring doesn't come either

0:22:030:22:07

-# If nobody else comes to our beach

0:22:070:22:11

-# It's still heaven in

-our little village - sing along!

0:22:110:22:15

-# If the summer

-doesn't come to Tresaith

0:22:150:22:18

-# If the spring doesn't come either

0:22:190:22:22

-# If nobody else comes to our beach

0:22:220:22:26

-# It's still heaven

-in our little village

0:22:260:22:29

-# If the summer

-doesn't come to Tresaith

0:22:300:22:33

-# If the spring doesn't come either

0:22:340:22:37

-# If nobody else comes to our beach

0:22:370:22:40

-# It's still heaven

-in our little village #

0:22:410:22:45

-Thank you very much.

0:22:450:22:47

-CHEERING AND APPLAUSE

0:22:480:22:50

-"The Penllwyndu is great in the sun

0:22:550:22:57

-"A Welsh Shangri La

-that's full of fun

0:22:580:23:00

-"In winter, it's best

-as the tourists aren't a pest

0:23:010:23:04

-"Welsh company and beer with a bun!"

0:23:040:23:08

-Goodnight!

0:23:080:23:10

-All together now.

0:23:110:23:12

-# If the summer

-doesn't come to Tresaith

0:23:120:23:15

-# If the spring doesn't come either

0:23:160:23:19

-# If nobody else comes to our beach

0:23:190:23:22

-# It's still heaven

-in our little village #

0:23:230:23:27

-S4C Subtitles by Tinopolis

0:23:270:23:29

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0:23:290:23:30

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