Y Dderwen, Hendre, Yr Wyddgrug Straeon Tafarn


Y Dderwen, Hendre, Yr Wyddgrug

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Transcript


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-Hello and welcome to Straeon Tafarn.

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-I'm Dewi "Pws" Morris

-and I'll tour the country...

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-..to learn about the history

-of our best pubs.

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-I'll meet old friends,

-sing a song, hear some stories...

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-..and I might sample

-some of the local culture.

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-This week, I've come to North-East

-Wales to the Rhydymwyn Valley...

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-..that 20,000 years ago

-was at the bottom of a lake...

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-..but is now

-a plush, green landscape.

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-I'm on the main road

-between Denbigh and Mold...

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-..and heading towards

-the industrial town of Hendre.

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-The land beneath Hendre

-is a network of underground tunnels.

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-They have witnessed generations...

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-..who mined for lead and limestone

-in the area.

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-I hope it's safe!

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-Which public house

-am I visiting this week?

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-I'm going to the Royal Oak,

-or The Oak as it's known locally.

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-This pub was the drinking hole

-for thirsty miners.

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-I said I was meeting old friends...

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-..but I won't find

-anyone older than you!

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-Yes, but I'm younger than you.

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-Yes, but I'm younger than you.

-

-OK, touche!

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-You own the place.

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-Tell me about the history

-of the pub.

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-There's been a pub here

-for over 300 years.

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-This is thanks to the industries.

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-There is a stone step

-on the back wall.

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-It was the route taken by the miners

-to reach the pub.

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-The stone at the bottom

-isn't flat any more...

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-..but there's a dip.

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-It shows hundreds of years of wear

-from the miners' hobnail boots.

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-Where did they all live?

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-Where did they all live?

-

-Some lived in the village.

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-However, many of them

-came to the area from Yorkshire.

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-The next village along the road

-is called Lixwm.

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-The name derives from the Yorkshire

-saying of "a likesome place."

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-In Welsh, it's called Licswm.

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-People would come and go.

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-Hundreds upon hundreds of people

-came to work in the quarries...

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-..who mined for lead, limestone...

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-..and the spar that was used

-for the white road markings...

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-..and in pebble dash on homes.

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-The quarry is behind us

-and it was very busy.

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-I noticed a tall tower

-on my way here.

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-What is it?

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-The tower is the main air shaft

-for the Olwyn Goch mine.

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-The main Olwyn Goch shaft

-is 800-foot deep.

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-I think that it was

-at the start of the 1970s...

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-..when they closed the pit.

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-They cut the chains

-and let everything fall.

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-All the equipment

-is still underground.

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-A friend attended an auction

-in the 1980s.

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-Many artefacts from the Olwyn Goch

-mine was on sale so he bought them.

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-The lots included the hooter...

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-..that called the men to work and

-signalled the raising of the crates.

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-We have it in the pub and

-it's sitting over there on the bar.

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-In February 1862, the area

-witnessed a terrible disaster.

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-It was an ordinary day's work...

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-..and the miners discovered a shaft

-full of water.

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-Sixteen miners drowned.

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-But one strong man

-survived the disaster...

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-..by climbing the quarter-of-an-inch

-line that held the mine's bell.

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-It was thick enough

-to save his life.

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-The mining disaster of 1862

-saw the deaths of 16 miners...

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-..including a 14-year-old boy

-and a man of 66.

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-The country's poets

-composed elegies for each of them.

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-The verdict was accidental death.

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-It meant that the owners of the mine

-and landowners...

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-..were not held responsible.

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-This site boasted residents

-from all over the country.

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-There were people

-from Cornwall, Derbyshire...

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-..and Welsh farmhands who wanted

-a career in this new industry.

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-It was a growing industry.

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-How did the accident happen?

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-It was the result of water

-bursting into the pit.

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-This was rare in those days.

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-Health and safety was obsolete

-for miners in the 19th century...

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-..but this type of accident

-was uncommon.

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-You often found ceilings

-collapsing on top of the miners...

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-..men falling underground...

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-..or there were issues

-with the blasting.

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-On the surface,

-many of the engines would explode...

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-..so it was very dangerous.

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-What did they find underground?

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-Geographically,

-this area is classed as Halkyn.

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-It's awash with limestone...

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-..but it also boasts

-a wealth of coal in the north...

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-..and a lot of lead.

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-There was a real mixture.

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-There was a lot of money to be made.

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-Yes, definitely.

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-If you compare it to the wage

-of the farmhands...

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-..then the miners

-earned quite a lot.

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-They earned a lot more.

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-Most of the farmhands came here

-and learnt on the job.

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-I suspect that is how it happened.

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-The majority started in their

-childhood years, more or less...

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-..but some learnt from their fathers

-or brothers.

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-It was certainly the case...

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-..that a lot of them

-learnt their skills on the job.

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-They earned a good wage

-but it wasn't much of a life.

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-No, it wasn't and there was

-a lot of health issues...

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-..and you cannot romanticize the job

-at all.

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-The Oak has always been central

-to the community.

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-At the turn of the 20th century,

-the landlords ran the nearby shop.

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-Edward was famous for his remedies.

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-His wife, Catherine,

-thought of the children.

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-She occasionally left one of these

-on the windowsill.

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-Look what's cooking,

-it's rice pudding!

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-Rice pudding!

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-SCREAMS AND CHEERS

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-The Sheldon family owned this pub

-at the start of the 19th century.

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-They not only ran the pub...

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-..but had a shop

-where the ladies toilets now stand.

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-It was a very specialized shop.

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-They sold pheasants, rabbits,

-general meat and a few other things.

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-But the old Mr Sheldon...

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-..was described

-as the parish doctor.

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-He made an array of remedies...

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-..from herbs found in the locality.

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-He was famous in the area

-for curing various ailments.

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-He had an excellent reputation.

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-He was also the landlord.

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-This is still a community pub.

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-Yes, and we've won awards over

-the years for being a community pub.

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-One year,

-we were second in all of Britain.

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-We've been here since 1997.

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-In that time, our customers

-have raised over 60,000...

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-..for groups in the area

-such as our football club...

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-..the church, the school and

-various groups to help the village.

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-It's important to be

-at the heart of the village.

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-It's lovely to see you again

-and thanks for the pint.

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-But do you sell tea?

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-But do you sell tea?

-

-What do you think?

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-The Oak at Hendre is on the road

-from Mold to Denbigh.

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-The nearby Alyn Valley boasts

-an impressive, industrial past.

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-World War II saw the site's heyday.

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-The Valley Works were at the heart

-of their efforts.

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-But you won't find the Valley Works

-on any maps from the era.

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-There's a good reason for that.

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-Behind these walls...

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-..they stored

-some horrific chemical weapons.

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-Horrific!

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-The name of the village

-is quite misleading.

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-Rhydymwyn makes a person

-think of pleasant and gentle place.

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-But it's the exact opposite.

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-Rhydymwyn is quite notorious

-in the area for being dangerous.

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-This is founded upon...

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-..the experiments

-that were held in the area...

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-..and the production

-of these diabolical things.

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-During the war...

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-..people flocked to the area

-to work.

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-Thank you for chatting with us,

-Rosina.

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-Tell us about your experiences

-and your job during the war.

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-I was an inspector for the

-Aeronautical Inspection Department.

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-That sounds posh!

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-What did you have to do?

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-I had to examine the bombs

-before they were filled...

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-..to ensure

-they were safe to be filled.

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-They were filled

-and I had to examine them again...

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-..to ensure it was airtight.

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-What did they put in the bombs?

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-What did they put in the bombs?

-

-Mustard gas.

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-I didn't know that

-when I worked there.

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-I didn't know what they put in them.

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-It was a very dangerous job.

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-It burnt if any of it spilt on you.

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-How many were working with you?

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-How many were working with you?

-

-There was close to 50 of us.

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-I was working for the RAF

-in the air force.

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-I needed a pass from the ICI

-to get into the factory.

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-When we went to work...

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-..we had to go through the gates

-and show the pass.

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-Then we went

-through the shower room.

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-Did you have a shower?

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-I had to strip, take a shower

-and then dress in the ICI clothes.

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-You couldn't tell anyone.

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-You couldn't tell anyone.

-

-No, nobody knew what we did.

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-It was a big secret.

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-You were like a spy.

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-I didn't know what they did.

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-They didn't tell us

-there was mustard gas in the bombs.

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-I didn't know about it.

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-Do you mind if I ask

-your current age?

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-I'm 94 years old.

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-Well done to you.

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-Yes, I'm 94.

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-They didn't only make

-mustard gas bombs.

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-Between 1941 and 1943, the

-Valley Works played a major role...

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-..in the development

-of a far more powerful weapon.

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-The atomic bomb.

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-We knew the world

-would not be the same.

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-I remembered the line from the Hindu

-scripture, from the Bhagavad Gita.

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-"Now I am become Death,

-the destroyer of worlds."

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-In this building, Pyro P6...

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-..they developed the complicated

-process of gaseous diffusion.

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-This meant

-that they could build a bomb...

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-..with potentially

-catastrophic results.

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-This is where the work started.

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-Some 2,000 people

-were working at Rhydymwyn...

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-..at the time of the war.

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-Some of those workers were experts

-in their field.

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-Two of those experts were scientists

-from Birmingham...

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-..but their names

-revealed the fact...

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-..that they had German roots.

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-What were their names?

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-What were their names?

-

-They were German names.

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-Oscar Frisch and Rudolf Peierls.

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-They don't sound Northwalian to me!

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-No, and they didn't sound like

-the kind of people...

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-..who were willing to share their

-knowledge with the local people.

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-Keeping this secret

-was a matter of national security.

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-The workers

-managed to hide the truth.

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-Not even the Nazi secret service

-knew of this place.

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-It's miraculous after the efforts

-of the 20th century spy...

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-..Klaus Fuchs.

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-There was another

-with a German name.

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-But he didn't intend to share

-the information with Germany...

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-..but Russia!

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-He was a spy.

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-Yes, and it's quite shocking...

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-..that he was working

-for the Soviet Union.

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-The German secret service didn't

-know the location of the factory.

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-No, I don't think they did.

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-It was a complete mystery.

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-It helped that the site

-was far from the major cities...

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-..which is where the Germans

-expected the atomic bomb...

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-..to have been devised.

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-Any stranger

-who appeared in the area...

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-..would be spotted immediately

-by the local people.

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-It was very odd here during the war.

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-Some 2,000 people

-came here by train each day...

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-..and were taken home every night.

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-There was a constant

-coming and going...

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-..and it was all

-shrouded in secrecy.

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-The Alyn Valley was a hive

-of activity during World War II.

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-The men had either gone to war

-or were working in the factories.

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-These farms were empty.

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-It was a disaster as they had to

-work the land to feed the country.

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-Who came to the rescue?

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-The Women's Land Army!

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-# The British Grenadiers #

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-The farmers were still working hard

-in this rural area...

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-..but many of the farmhands

-had been called to war.

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-It meant that

-there was a lack of manpower.

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-I think that was the time...

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-..that they decided to form...

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-..the Women's Land Army

-as they were known.

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-They had a strong presence

-in this area.

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-There were some old farms

-that had been left empty...

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-..so some ladies

-were stationed in them.

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-They also came across

-a rather substantial house...

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-..in the area

-on the Gwysaney estate.

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-At Bryn Alyn, they established

-a home for the ladies.

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-What did the Women's Land Army do?

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-That's a good question.

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-Many of the women came to the roles

-without any previous experience.

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-They had to learn very quickly.

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-However, some of the women were

-from agricultural backgrounds...

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-..and knew what to do.

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-They did everything such as milking

-and working the land with tractors.

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-They did everything

-a typical farmer would have to do.

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-I'm sure they didn't do the work

-to the same standard...

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-..and were messy as they

-were unfamiliar with the work.

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-But their contribution

-to this area...

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-..was crucial.

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-This small corner of Wales...

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-..was very important in developing

-the world's most powerful weapons.

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-But there's one more secret

-left to be uncovered.

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-I understand that Churchill had

-a plan at the end of World War II.

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-If the Germans

-had landed in Southern England...

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-..all the bullion

-from the Bank of England...

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-..would be brought here

-for safe keeping.

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-Before you ask, yes, I've looked

-for it but found nothing!

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-I've had a wonderful welcome

-from my old friend at The Oak...

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-..and learnt the secrets

-of the Alyn Valley.

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-Before I leave,

-I'll share a pint with the locals...

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-..and enjoy a song from Ynyr Llwyd.

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-# Here, in front of me

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-# A small path leads to the water

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-# And the light of sun

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-# Is breaking through the trees

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-# Here, in front of me

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-# The young fisherman works hard

-without causing a stir

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-# Back and forth

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-# It's always the same old pattern

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-# And on the lake

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-# Sits the lonely fisherman

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-# In a boat on Llyn Brenig

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-# No cares in the world,

-he's still here

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-# Catching fish on the water

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-# Catching fish on the water

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-# Here, in front of me

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-# The gentle waves

-kiss the edge of the shore

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-# Back and forth

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-# It's always the same old pattern

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-# And on the lake

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-# Sits the lonely fisherman

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-# In a boat on Llyn Brenig

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-# No cares in the world,

-he's still here

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-# Catching fish on the water

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-# Catching fish on the water #

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-Come and join me, Pws!

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-Yee-haw!

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-# A fisherman

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-# A lonely fisherman

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-# A fisherman

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-# In a boat on Llyn Brenig

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-# A fisherman

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-# A lonely fisherman

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-# A fisherman

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-# In a boat on Llyn Brenig

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-# Oh, oh, oh

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-# Oh, oh, oh

0:22:020:22:04

-# Oh, oh, oh

0:22:040:22:06

-# Oh, oh, oh

0:22:070:22:09

-# Oh, oh, oh

0:22:090:22:11

-# Oh, oh, oh

0:22:120:22:14

-# Oh, oh, oh

0:22:140:22:16

-# Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh #

0:22:160:22:23

-CHEERING AND APPLAUSE

0:22:250:22:27

-"I took a stroll to The Oak

0:22:370:22:39

-"And met a tidy bloke

0:22:400:22:41

-"The company was fine

-but I couldn't decline

0:22:420:22:45

-"So I left the place flat broke!"

0:22:450:22:49

-Goodnight!

0:22:500:22:51

-# Oh, oh, oh

0:22:530:22:55

-# Oh, oh, oh

0:22:560:22:58

-# Oh, oh, oh

0:22:580:23:00

-# Oh, oh, oh

0:23:010:23:03

-# Oh, oh, oh

0:23:030:23:05

-# Oh, oh, oh

0:23:060:23:08

-# Oh, oh, oh

0:23:080:23:10

-# Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh #

0:23:110:23:14

-S4C Subtitles by Tinopolis

0:23:150:23:17

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0:23:170:23:17

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