Liguria Escape to the Continent

Now, 127 years ago, that little hillside village behind me

was devastated in a terrifying natural disaster.

It's now one of many "ghost towns" that this country,

and in particular, this region, is famous for.

But where are we?

Well, join me in just a moment and I'll tell you.

Today's house-hunters are looking to buy a property

that will be the start of an exciting new adventure.

THAT is the most amazing bathroom I have ever seen!

-We get stuck into the lingo...

-It's very "typique". "Typico"?

THEY LAUGH

-Love the floor.

-Is "typico" an Italian word?

-Yeah, I don't know.

-It is now!

And we discover some welcome surprises.

-Kelly, what's that?

-It's a lemon tree.

-It certainly is!

Well, today we are in Liguria, in the north-western corner of Italy.

And this is the ruined village of Bussana Vecchia.

A devastating earthquake, back in 1887, left it in ruins.

And for decades afterwards, this place was left unloved and unlived in.

But in the 1960s, a community of artists moved in, taking inspiration

from the ruins and using them as studios and galleries.

For a town that everybody thought had died, it's now full of life.

The Italian region of Liguria is around a

two-hour flight from the UK.

It's a crescent-shaped region which hugs

the coastline for around 180 miles, and, as it borders France,

can be accessed by either Nice or Genoa airports.

Known as the Italian Riviera, it's split into two coasts.

The western section is the Riviera Ponente, a sheltered coastal strip

punctuated by classic Mediterranean resorts such as San Remo.

It's Italy's answer to Monte Carlo, with a glitzy casino

and majestic turn-of-the-century hotels.

Further to the east is the Riviera Levante,

which has a more rugged coastline descending directly into the sea

and home to breathtaking towns such as Portofino,

which clings to the hillside.

And in the middle of these two shorelines

is the capital of the region, Genoa.

Home to just under a million people, it's a busy commercial city

built around its deep natural harbour,

which is Italy's largest seaport.

One of the more recent additions to the marina is "La Bolla",

or "The Ball", by Genoese architect Renzo Piano,

who's better known to us for his London building, the Shard.

But arguably, Genoa's most famous son

is explorer Christopher Columbus,

born here in 1451, and who is remembered throughout the city.

Inland, medieval mountain villages dot the landscape.

Mind you, getting to them can be slow going,

but the views are spectacular.

So how does all that seductive scenery

translate into Liguria's property market?

Well, here on the coast, two-bedroom houses can range from

£390,000-£800,000.

Prices that are somewhat inflated thanks to wealthy

Italian city dwellers investing in second homes here.

So, if you want more for your budget, well, the trick is simple,

head inland and further up into the mountains.

There, you could find the same thing for half as much.

And it's also worth remembering that Italy is still in the grip

of an economic downturn. Mortgages are hard to find.

So if you are a cash buyer coming from the UK, well, to be honest,

the horizon is wide open.

So, time now to meet today's buyers and find out what's for them.

Will it be coast, or countryside?

Today's house-buyers are Michael and Kelly, who live in Cornwall.

I'm a helicopter pilot, I've always flown,

been flying for over 40 years and never done anything else.

I'm a wedding ceremony registrar.

So I marry people, which is just the most wonderful job.

And their journey together began when they were teenagers.

I was still at school, I think Michael had just left school

and had joined the Navy.

And his best friend lived opposite my best friend.

And that's how we met.

They've lived in the same house since the '80s,

where they have concentrated on raising a large family.

We have five children, four girls and one boy.

Three of the children are actually my late sister's children,

so it was a difficult time.

But we're a really great team together.

We've had a wild time bringing up a big family.

And now, that stage is moving on, and we're looking for something new.

And that new thing is starting a new life in Italy,

where Kelly lived from the age of seven to 13.

Her family were in Milan for five years, but spent their holidays

in Liguria, which is where she wants to return to.

I lived in Italy as a child and I've always hankered to go back

and whenever we go back and visit, I just love it.

As a very sociable couple, they're keen to integrate

into whichever Italian community they move to.

We do actually want to go somewhere and be part of it.

Very definitely. I wouldn't want to be living too remotely.

If you're not a Vespa ride away from a loaf of bread, it's too far for me.

Whilst Kelly will give up her job,

Michael will continue to work in the UK, two weeks on and two weeks off.

-I can commute from that part of Italy...

-So...

..and for a certain amount of time it'd work.

And that's another attraction. Its links are very good.

Kelly will be spending a lot of time on her own, but luckily,

she can speak some Italian.

Although my Italian is not brilliant, but then sometimes,

after I've been there a while, I find myself...

I just open my mouth and words come out and I think...

I just kind of roll along with it.

And they want to be living the "bella vita" as soon as they can.

It's quite nice to take a leap of faith.

Because we haven't done that for a while.

-So, let's go off and have an adventure.

-Certainly.

We're concentrating our search in the area of Liguria west of Genoa,

towards the French border, where Kelly came as a child.

Whilst it holds very happy memories,

she hasn't actually been back in 40 years.

Now, I know there are beautiful Italian villages

they both will love,

but what about their property requirements?

I need a few more details.

Hello, Kelly. Hi, Michael.

-Very nice to see you guys. Welcome...

-Thank you.

-Thank you.

-..to the Italian Riviera.

-Wonderful.

Now, this is an area that you do actually know quite well, don't you?

I do. I lived here for a while as a child.

So I have some very happy memories of this area.

-And Michael, this is a kind of new endeavour for you?

-Totally.

I mean, I've never been to this area at all, so it's either going to

be a huge shock or surprise, but having said that,

you know, we've travelled a lot in Italy

and I've a fair idea what we're likely to expect.

-And so far, beautiful.

-What are your expectations?

-Because this isn't retirement, is it?

-No. I want to keep working.

And this is an area I could commute a bit, for a while,

-until we make the complete move.

-Have you got a helicopter?

-No.

-LAUGHING:

-No, there you go. That would help the commute, wouldn't it?

Can you give me an idea of what the spec is?

What are you looking for in this new home? Kelly?

I think we need a minimum of two bedrooms, some outside space...

-I would so love to have a lemon tree!

-Really?

-Yeah.

-LAUGHING:

-I think that's possible.

-I wouldn't be adverse to an apartment.

Now, you mentioned bedrooms. What about downstairs space?

What's your ideal kind of reception area going to look like?

Something quite open-plan.

I don't want to end up spending my life in a kitchen

when everybody else is at the other end of the house

or outside on the terrace, or something, and I'm inside cooking.

How much are we going to spend on all this then, Michael?

£260,000.

Well, we've got some glorious weather, and, of course,

-this wonderful coastline to explore.

-Fabulous.

And 260,000 quid of your hard-earned pennies to spend.

-Shall we go?

-Yes, please.

-Can't wait.

With £260,000 to spend, Kelly and Michael are open to any style

and type of property, but it should have a minimum of two bedrooms

as well as connected or open-plan kitchen and living spaces.

To make the most of the climate, they do want outside space and to

be located in the heart of a lively and authentic Italian village.

And, if possible, to have a lemon tree.

And we have an exciting range of properties to show them.

Some with unique features that, in all my years of house-hunting,

I have never seen before.

And, of course, we have the Mystery House, which could give a

whole new perspective on their wish list for a home.

During our time here, Kelly and Michael will be staying

in their own, rented Italian home, which will give them

a glimpse of what life could be like once they make the move.

To kick off our Italian adventure, we're going to the

village of Vallebona, which is just two-and-a-half-miles from the coast.

It's a beautiful hillside village, centring on

a classic Italian church with its campanile tower.

-Have you been here before?

-No, I haven't.

The village itself offers you everything, as you can see.

We've got restaurants, you've got a bakery, there's a post office.

And a nice community of about 1,300 people or so.

This is absolutely what I had in mind.

It's perfect.

-You can hear life going on around us, I mean...

-Yes.

-..it's clearly a very sociable place, which is nice.

-Exactly right.

And it's also... I mean, it's exceptionally pretty, as well.

This is just wonderful. Love it.

Right. Come on then, let's have a look.

Dating back to the 14th century, the winding medieval streets were

designed to keep residents cool in the heat of the summer.

But they also give an incredible sense of atmosphere.

Right, then. Here we go.

-That is what I want you to have a look at.

-Wow!

-All of it?

-All of it.

It's raised over four floors, you've got one, two, three, and then

the fourth is the roof terrace, which of course, you can't see.

-Fantastic.

-It's sort of tucked away, but it's not isolated. This is good.

It's wonderful. Love it.

Let's get you inside and see what you make of it.

-Great.

-It's another little climb.

This town house is all about vertical living.

On street level, there is a cellar.

Next floor up is a great guest floor with a living-bedroom,

as well as small bathroom and a little kitchenette

with its own balcony.

But it's up on the second floor where Kelly and Michael's

accommodation really starts.

Now, this is what is currently set up as the master.

-Surprising, isn't it?

-It is! It's very surprising.

-It's not what you'd expect from the outside.

-No.

-I think that's great.

-It's very "typique". "Typico"?

-Love the floor.

Is "typico" an Italian word?

-Yeah, I don't know. LAUGHING:

-It is now!

-It is now.

-The floor is terrific, isn't it?

-Yeah. Proper.

-Wonderful, I love that.

I thought, looking from outside, that the rooms

would be much smaller and much darker. But this is lovely.

I mean, the thing to bear in mind is that the footprint of it is not huge.

-No.

-No.

-But it is all stacked up.

-Yeah.

So the further up we get,

I think the more living accommodation you'll find.

-Yes.

-Right.

-Have a look at this.

Across the landing is a bathroom,

making this floor a sort of master suite.

The next level up is the third floor,

and contains the main reception room.

Now, they've got this set up as their living room.

But I suppose, actually, you could reapportion any of these rooms.

-No, this makes sense, I think.

-Yeah.

-It makes sense for me.

-This way up.

-Those lovely windows.

-It's really nice, isn't it?

Absolutely love these floors.

-Big enough?

-I think so.

-Yes!

-I think so.

I think these rooms...

You can do so much with them.

They are all really substantial.

Now, it's unusual at this stage in a house tour

not to have seen the kitchen, so let's do that.

It is through here, right next to that dining room and living room.

-There you go.

-Nice.

-Great. I like it.

The back of the property has this unusual shape, it's not as square

and as vast as the front.

Hence, that's why all the bathrooms are at this end on their respective floors.

And they've slotted in the kitchen as well.

But there's plenty of worktop space, really great sink.

And, to be honest,

I don't expect to spend my time in Italy in the kitchen.

No, I'd a feeling you might say that. PRESENTER LAUGHS

I would hope, given the weather,

-that most of your eating and entertaining...

-Quite.

-..is going to be up on the roof.

-Yeah, yeah.

Come and have a look.

On the top floor is a summer kitchen, where food and drinks

can be prepared for dining alfresco.

Finally, Kelly, I know the bit you've been really looking

forward to, the outside space. This is the roof terrace,

have a look at the view over here.

-Oh...

-There you go.

-Yes!

-Yes?

-Wow. I see the sea.

You can see the sea! And that lovely bell tower

-and this lovely higgledy-piggledy roof...line.

-Skyline.

Beautiful, love that. Very nice.

Now, I'm wondering if this would be a place for your lemon tree?

Yes, I think I could probably get a lemon tree up here.

-The only thing is, you've got to carry it up.

-Yeah, that might be a problem!

Well, let's think about the price then.

You've got £260,000 to spend,

where does our lovely town house in Vallebona come?

I think that's most of the budget. Got to be £240,000-plus.

I think it would be more like 250.

This one is quite good news.

This is all the twos! It's £222,222.

-Wow.

-That's a surprise. A walk-in house.

-Yeah.

-Yeah!

-For that money as well.

-Absolutely.

-That's extraordinary.

You can just walk in here and get on with it.

-And have fun...

-Doing things.

-..cosmetically tweaking it,

-without having to worry about anything major.

-Yes.

-Wow.

Very nice. And in such a lovely spot. Really lovely.

Right, then. Off you go, go and spend a bit of time.

In particular, have a look at that ground floor,

-think about how the guests might enjoy that.

-Yes.

-Enjoy.

-Thank you.

And I think I might just enjoy the view a bit more.

Look at that.

Priced at £38,000 under their top budget,

this four-storey town house offers character on every level.

There are the two bedrooms they asked for,

a spacious reception room and a small kitchen.

Up on the top floor is an intimate roof terrace with summer kitchen

and spectacular views over the village towards the coast.

I really like this room. I think the shape's fantastic.

-The vaults?

-Yes.

-Lovely.

-Wonderful.

This is a second bedroom. You could put bunks there.

We could get eight people in here.

I love the village, I think it's great.

It's exactly what I had in mind. A proper village, a proper community.

Plenty going on.

The property is great.

It's very substantial.

It's a hell of a good house.

It's beautiful, I really like it.

I think, though...

all those stairs might actually get to me.

And also, the main thing is that the kitchen

is too separate from the rest of the house.

I would still like something that is more open plan.

I mean, we're picking on things to find things but it's a great house.

There are towns and there are houses in towns but I think this one,

-it really is special, isn't it?

-It's fabulous.

I've been having a little wander around these lanes

while you've been finishing off looking around, it's just delightful.

-Is it on your list?

-It's a heck of a start.

-It's a good start, isn't it?

-It's caused confusion.

-And a great price, let's be honest.

And a lovely, lovely village.

Well, I'm pleased with their first day's house-hunting.

To round things off we're heading to the town of Imperia

where there's another property to visit. But this one's not for sale.

We have got you this little place for the next few days

in which you can relax and really immerse yourself in the local area.

-What do you think?

-Fantastic.

-Not a bad setting, is it?

-Wonderful.

Hopefully, it'll rekindle those childhood memories

-of a life in Italy on the Riviera.

-Absolutely. Wonderful.

It's yours to enjoy for the next few days,

somewhere to and unwind and start thinking about what this move

-is really going to entail for the pair of you.

-Thank you very much.

Lots to ponder.

-Oh, Calla. Like the lilies.

-Oh, right.

Oh! Nice. This is lovely.

Look at all those windows. Wonderful.

That's a view.

-Look. Look, look, look. Look at that. The mountains.

-Fantastic.

-Wonderful.

-Let's explore.

Having their own temporary home for the duration of the stay

will give Kelly and Michael the time and space to reflect on what they see.

-It's nice to actually be here.

-It's been quite a day.

-That was quite a day.

-A lot to take in.

-Yes.

And I did love that village.

You could compromise a lot for that village because the location was so good.

Still not sure about the stairs but...

It was, but that village was perfect.

And tonight our buyers are off to dinner at a place that holds

lots of happy memories for Kelly.

A pizzeria in Imperia.

-Gosh, this is so weird.

-I feel like I've been here before.

-Yeah.

After all your descriptions. How's that?

She and her family regularly dined here

and its the first time Kelly has been back in 40 years.

Siamo avere...

-..un pizza margherita con rucola.

-Rucola.

-Va bene.

Grazie, grazie.

Dining on the most famous of Italian dishes

is still a good value night out.

Outside of the tourist hot spots,

a pizza will cost roughly four to seven pounds

and a bottle of house red is around eight pounds.

Right, let's go for it.

I've waited so long.

Mmm.

OK.

That's what pizza is supposed to taste like.

Being back in their old haunt is an emotional experience for Kelly

as it reminds her of being here with her parents and sister,

who have sadly all since passed away.

I know how this place is incredibly important to you.

It's not because of the place, it's because of the people

and because of your family.

Stop it. I'm not going to look at you now.

No, I understand. It's really special and it's got nothing to do

with this pizzeria, it's about why you came and who you came with.

But it's very... But, yes.

I've been asking myself for years why I've never been back to

this particular place and why it's never happened.

I think, actually, I was always, kind of, too...

It was such a big deal to do it.

It's just so lovely. Absolutely lovely.

-Buonasera.

-Arriverderci.

Connecting with past memories while starting a fresh chapter

is what being here is all about.

Hopefully, tomorrow we will have some properties which will get

Kelly and Michael closer to turning those recollections into a reality.

We're waking up on the second day of our search for a new home

in the Italian region of Liguria for Kelly and Michael from Cornwall.

After spending her childhood in the region, it's been Kelly's dream

to live here and this trip is a chance for Michael to discover

if it's a move that's right for him too.

So far, it's clear they love the idea of living in a classic

Italian community but they do want a little more space,

in particular for Kelly, something a lot more open plan.

That's exactly what our second property is going to offer them.

I can't wait to show them this one.

For our next property we're heading inland to Pieve di Teco

which is 14 miles from the coast.

Surrounded by mountains, the medieval village has narrow streets

and commercial arcades dating back to the 1400s.

The 13th century church of Madonna della Ripa

is now a museum of sacred art

and the tiny Teatro Salvini is one of the smallest theatres in the world.

It has a population of around 1,000 and our next property

is located right in the historic centre.

Rights, guys, just settle down here and look up there.

-Wow.

-I thought yesterday was really interesting.

You responded really nicely to the idea of being within

that old medieval town but it didn't offer you that open plan living

I know you're very keen on.

So this one, I think, might do the trick.

Size is what this one is all about.

-I think town's lovely.

-The town, from what we've seen, is fantastic.

-Really nice.

-Come on, let's have look.

-Great.

'The property is above an antique shop

'but it's only open one Sunday a month.

'Inside the house itself, the first floor is the guest floor

'with two good-sized bedrooms for visitors.

'Up on another level, there is a third guest bedroom

'and then a rather unique bedroom for Michael and Kelly

'as it has a spectacular original fresco.'

SHE LAUGHS

Oh, wow. That's extraordinary.

No surprise, this is the master bedroom.

Arguably the most ornate of the four.

The building itself, we think, began life around about 1200.

It's thought these date from the 18th century.

-Fabulous.

-That's wonderful.

It's wonderful the way they pick out the lines of the vaulting.

-Yes.

-It's not oppressive, it's not like a museum.

-That's just stunning.

-Yes.

Frankly, I'm lost for words.

If you like this, come upstairs.

-Right.

-This is great fun.

'There is a small shower room across the hallway but the main bathroom

'is up on the next floor and believe you me, it's different.'

Come on in.

-OK.

-That is the most amazing bathroom I have ever seen.

Yes. It's very, very different.

You've got his and hers sinks over there,

obviously the bath dominates the whole thing.

These skylights go up to the roof terrace above, actually.

You want to be slightly careful as to who's up there

while you're in the bath! It's just part of the fun of it.

That's incredible.

This you will enjoy, Michael.

I think every home should have one of those.

A genuine pissoir.

-It is indeed.

-That's fun. It is great fun.

What do you think, Kelly?

Like I said before, speechless, actually.

I've never seen anything quite like it. Seriously wacky.

-It's selling it to me.

-It's selling it to you?

-I just love it, absolutely love it.

This house is fun and individual.

Michael is enjoying its oddities but I'm not so sure about Kelly.

However, the living spaces, which were almost entirely

rebuilt in 2002, are where this house delivers on her criteria.

This is where the open plan element to this property

really starts to come into its own. This is your living room.

Fabulous.

That's an amazing space.

Beautiful.

It's just huge. It would take a lifetime to fill all this space.

-Absolutely incredible.

-Wonderful.

-Lovely.

-Would you be happy here?

Yeah, I think so. From what I've seen.

I think I might get a bit lost, to be honest.

And we haven't finished yet. There's one more floor to go.

'Now, Kelly wanted a kitchen connected to both outdoor

'and family living spaces and up here, there is just that.

'In one direction, the kitchen area with the stove and sink

'looks out onto the property's outdoor space - a compact terrace.

'And then in the other direction...'

This is what they've currently got set up as their dining area.

-Right. You can get lots of people in here.

-Absolutely.

It's a really interesting space.

-It's got this city loft appeal...

-Yes.

-Yes.

-..actually.

-Are you still lost for words?

-I am. I am.

Clearly, they are gastronauts.

They do take their salami slicing quite seriously,

as you can probably tell.

My brain is going overtime calculating the cost of this.

I'm quite confused.

Well, let's deal with the cost now, shall we?

Logically, this is all the budget and a bit more.

I'm saying...£270,000.

I think I'm with you on that.

OK, I'm going to take you back to school.

Here are the numbers you need to think about.

You said 270 plus. OK.

-It's a good start.

-Good start?

-I'll have a five.

-Oh!

-Wow.

-Pounds.

-Yes.

-Could you do it?

-Maybe.

-Are you happy?

-Yes.

-I know it's a bit of a stretch but not bad really.

-That's extraordinary.

-It's a lot of house.

Go and consider it carefully.

Have a look at the terrace out there

and I will catch up with you a little bit later outside.

Off you go. See if you can find a place for that lemon tree.

For just a nudge over their £260,000 budget,

this extensive renovated town house is a one-off

full of character and fun.

There are four bedrooms, a unique bathroom

and two floors of large well-connected living spaces.

There's also a small outside terrace and it's located in a lively town.

Right, not exactly wide-open spaces but...

But it's outside space and it's attached to the kitchen, which is important.

The style of the property is very interesting.

But it's so big, I would feel lost in it.

Yes, you could fill it with all family and friends,

everybody could fit in here

but when they weren't here, I think I could feel rather lonely in it.

The style of the house is great, I love it.

Clearly, they have spent a lot of money and done this properly.

As far as the price is concerned, I mean, I think it's a bargain

but you shouldn't buy a place just because it's a bargain if it's not right.

Well, how are we doing, Kelly?

-Good.

-Yeah, good. Michael?

-I loved it.

I know you did. You're not so sure, are you?

No, I don't think I'm so sure.

I'm amazed, I loved it, I have to confess.

But maybe now is the time to take a break from house-hunting.

-Fancy a little walk for some fresh air?

-Yes.

-Come on.

When Kelly and Michael make the move to Italy

they are determined to make the most of the outdoors.

As this part of Liguria is sheltered from cold northerly winds

by the high mountain range of the Ligurian Alps,

it has a temperate climate all year round.

Summer temperatures reach the high 20s

and in winter, the mercury rarely drops below five Celsius.

'To get to know the area and find out more about life here,

'we've arranged for Kelly and Michael to meet British expat, Lorenzo.'

-Nice to see you.

-Pleased to meet you.

'Born in the UK to Italian parents, he, like Kelly,

'spent some of his childhood in Liguria.

'Ten years ago he left the UK, moved here permanently

'and now runs a walking tour company.'

-Welcome to Liguria.

-Thank you.

Well, I think a visit to this part of Liguria

will cement your love for it. That's the idea.

We've got a fantastic guide here in Lorenzo.

You probably know these mountains like the back of your hand.

Pretty much. It's the love for these mountains, for this interior,

that brought me back here.

This quality of light that you see today, and the sheer beauty

and biodiversity, where you only look up there

and you can see the autumn colours changing already.

-The eyes are never tired, it's just spectacular.

-How about that?

The eyes are never tired. I'm hooked already.

THEY LAUGH

It's so close to the sky, it feels you're really up there. Wonderful.

We haven't got all day, sadly, but we've got some time for you

to give us a real taste of what these mountains are all about.

Just follow me, I've got a great treat in store for you.

-Go on, then, after you.

-Thank you.

In the foothills of the Alps, we are

hiking along the old mule tracks to the village of Mendatica.

The buildings here date back to the 15th century

and include the church of St Margaret.

Lovely. Love that door.

-Oh, proper squeaky church door, isn't it?

-Yes.

So these are the wonderful frescoes, executed by

Guido da Ranzo, a local artist, who was influenced

by the Tuscan school of art,

but the amazing thing about this particular fresco here...

is of the Last Supper. We see many Last Suppers in Italy,

but this depicts dishes of this area, which they

still put in the restaurants of the area.

Well, all this talk of food, and our walk,

-has built up my appetite, I don't know about you two, are you hungry?

-Yes.

Well, I've just got the right sort of place where we can go

and really enjoy authentic food.

Oh, come on, off you go.

HE LAUGHS

Culture and lunch.

The local mountain cuisine is known as Cucina Bianca, or

"White Cuisine", because of its pale colour.

Using mountain ingredients, such as mushrooms, potatoes,

sheep and goat's cheese, as well as salami and bread, it's simple.

The food is very different from the coastline,

where you have fish and a variety of exotic fruits.

Whereas here it is more akin to northern Europe.

-And these are?

-Turle.

Made with a pastry of potato and mint inside.

-Oh, go on.

-Fabulous.

One of the delicacies of the area, but simple food, very poor food.

Does this remind you of your youth here?

It absolutely does, and I have been looking forward to

food like this for the last 40 years.

I thought you were going to say 40 minutes.

40 years. There we are. Look, tuck in, guys.

Lorenzo, did you find it hard to

adjust to life back here?

I remember when I arrived, and some Italian friends said,

"Well, welcome back, after 30 years, to Liguria."

And they gave me a booklet. And the booklet reads, "The Ligurians...

"the grumpy ones."

THEY LAUGH

I knew the nature of the people, which is quite reserved.

People are quite shy in this area.

At times they can look surly, but they are not.

Once they know who you are, where you come from,

they open out their hearts to you.

One thing I would be interested in, Lorenzo, the cost of living.

Is it very high?

There is an incredible difference in cost of living,

depending, in Liguria, where you are.

The more you move inland, although you have more authenticity,

the prices drop considerably down.

So, actually, it's a kind of inverse graph, isn't it?

You get more lifestyle, more Italy, if you will,

the further inland you come. But actually it costs you less.

-Much less.

-So is there anything that you miss?

-Well, I have a business.

I think running a business in England, for example,

is much easier.

There's a lot more red tape here, without a shadow of a doubt. But...

you reach a certain stage and age in your life

and other values are more important.

Your surroundings, family values,

and for me it was just coming back home, so it was the right decision.

I think that's rather similar, in a way, to what you are trying to do,

because you are sort of recapturing,

retracing the steps of your youth, aren't you?

Yes, yes, there's definitely that element to it.

-Lorenzo, thank you very much for your time.

-Thank you.

-Cheers.

-Salute.

-Salute!

-Salute!

-Or chin-chin.

-Chin-chin.

-Chin-chin.

Moving to Italy brings with it particular financial

and logistical considerations.

In terms of the property purchase, 8% of the price is the amount you

should expect to pay in solicitors' cost, stamp duty and agents.

Spending more than 183 days a year in Italy qualifies

you as an Italian tax resident, even if you work and pay tax in the UK.

The system is complicated, and getting professional

advice about your status before a move is advisable.

One of the best ways to integrate is to find a local language

exchange group. Made up of English speakers wanting to

better their Italian, and Italians wanting to improve their English,

they have regular socials to brush up on language skills...

and, of course, make friends.

It's the start of our final day house-hunting in the Italian

region of Liguria, and we've still got plenty to see.

With a budget of £260,000, Kelly and Michael from Cornwall plan to begin

a new chapter in their lives, but only once they've found the right property.

This whole process is just short-cutting so much for us.

Well, it focuses the mind as to actually what it is you do want.

-Yeah.

-I've realised I don't want that

-classic town house...

-Yeah.

..thing of one room on top of another.

The other thing is, dare I say it,

to look at an apartment with a big balcony.

Normally by this stage, I've got a pretty good

idea of what our buyers are after, but on this occasion I'm finding

it very hard to read, in particular

what is going on in Kelly's mind.

Michael is really enthusiastic about this move,

he is supporting her and her wish to get back to a place

she remembers fondly from her childhood,

but so far nothing really has caused a wow.

So it's all to play for today,

we've got two more properties to come, including our Mystery House,

so hopefully, by the end of play,

we may at last find out what exactly Kelly is after.

For our next offering we are going to the city of Albenga,

which is right on the coast.

It's a busy place of just under 25,000 people,

who populate the cafes, bars and piazzas of the old town.

It's just the sort of sociable place I think our buyers would like.

It's also an important historical town with magnificent

buildings such as the Cathedral of St Michael the Archangel.

The city's popular with tourists, who flock to the string of small

public beaches linked by a two-mile promenade.

What we've got for you is something slightly different.

We've had lots of stairs,

so what we've gone for is a single-storey apartment.

-Right.

-Interesting.

-Come and have a look.

The apartment is on the first floor of a palazzo,

built in the 1500s by the Del Carretto family,

who were important local nobility.

Now, the stairs widen considerably

when you get up to your floor.

And the reason for that is sort of simple, really.

The whole thing was built as quite a lavish town house

in the 16th century by the Marques Carretto.

But the story is, they say,

that he had the stairs widened

-so he could get his horse up here.

-KELLY LAUGHS

-Great style.

-Slightly bonkers, maybe.

The good news is there is also a lift today,

and this is no longer some sort of stable.

Come and have a look.

-There we are.

-Oh!

-Yes?

-Yes.

Oh, very nice.

I do really like this, I think it's got a very nice feel to it.

I think he's as surprised as I am.

THEY LAUGH

-No, but it's...

-But I can see why.

It feels like it's got space, but it's not...

massive, it's not huge, and you could get plenty of people in here.

But also it would be fine if I was here on my own.

-You're not going to rattle around on your own.

-No.

-No.

This has two bedrooms and two bathrooms.

The master is through here.

Of the two bedrooms there is a smaller one, which has high

vaulted ceilings, a mezzanine section for storage

and an en suite bathroom.

Next door is a large family bathroom,

and on the other side of that is the bigger of the two bedrooms.

There you are.

Oh, wow.

That's a big window.

And a lot of storage. Goodness.

Serious storage. For an apartment.

It is essential, actually, to have a big whack of storage somewhere.

You've also got this mezzanine arrangement. Not full head height up there,

but, I don't know, a bit more storage.

What occurs to me with the family coming, two beds up there.

You could do. We are brokering this as the master bedroom.

However, next door does have an en suite,

so they are interchangeable.

So if you wanted this to have a bit more bed space... The family dorm.

-Absolutely.

-Yes.

-They'd be cool with that.

-They're all used...

-And they would really enjoy it.

-They'd be fine.

-They have been doing it half their life. HE LAUGHS

So with a bit of ingenuity,

this two bedroom apartment could accommodate plenty of guests,

whilst not being too big a space for Kelly when she's on her own.

This is going very well but, as I know, it's the kitchen

and outside space that will swing any decision.

It's nice, isn't it? Nice mix of the contemporary. And...

I absolutely love that ceiling. I think that's great.

Because some ornate ceilings can be a bit OTT and oppressive,

but that feels modern, even though it's original.

And I really like the way they've laid it out.

-Very nice.

-I agree.

Let's deal with the outside space, it's right here.

-Proper outside space.

-That's a proper terrace.

-Now you're flowing out the kitchen.

-Yeah.

Everything you talked about in your outdoor living.

-Yeah. Very much what I like.

-I think you're absolutely right.

You would spend a huge amount of time out here.

-You really could use this as another room.

-Yes, most definitely.

-Mmm. I like it.

-I'm very happily surprised, the size of this.

So let's think about the price, then.

Well, I think I've been way overestimating things.

I'm going to say...

-230.

-I'd love to think it's going to be about that,

I was thinking slightly less, but I'm going to be safe and say 230.

-230, say the pair of you?

-Yes.

-I wish it were.

-Oh.

-THEY LAUGH

-Ah!

-But it's good news.

It is actually under budget, it's on at £258,000.

-Just creeping in there.

-Right, then.

There's not much more to see, to be honest. Have a wander around and

-make sure you've got the geography of it firmly implanted in your minds.

-Right.

I'll see you later.

There we are. Well, that little look around won't take very long, I suspect,

but it's well worth trying to memorise every little detail of these

properties because, at the end of the day, this is a big decision to

make, it is a lot of money to spend, but maybe

they'll spend it here.

So, for just £2,000 under budget,

this historic apartment gives two bedrooms which, thanks to

a mezzanine area, would accommodate plenty of visiting family.

It has a living room which is well connected to the kitchen,

which opens out onto the all-important terrace.

And it's in a buzzing little town on the coast.

Oh.

Right, interesting.

-Right.

-Bathroom.

-This is the en suite.

Well, having seen the other, I'm thinking even more now this could be a room for us.

-OK, it's quite pink.

-A couple of pots of paint.

-Could change that.

I was really hoping you would show us an apartment,

because we did have an open mind about the sort of property.

And having seen it, I'm really surprised how it does...

address a lot of our needs.

As apartments go, it's got the high ceilings, but it's not too

cold, but it's still got the right flow of the

indoor and outdoor space.

I think, so far, this is the best.

Definitely. I could see myself here.

Realistically, actually this could make a really good home.

I love the way the kitchen just comes straight out onto the terrace.

-A couple of doors wide open.

-Which is what you need.

-Exactly what I wanted, yes.

-Oh!

Is there a sense of happiness and agreement?

Yes, I think there is. Yes.

I think this is a really strong contender, I really do.

Albenga, I adore.

This so far is probably my favourite. There you are...

-Certainly mine.

-Good.

But it's not over yet, we've got two more treats for you...this afternoon.

-The first is lunch.

-Excellent.

-And the second

-is our Mystery House.

-Mmm.

-Right.

-Shall we?

-Yes.

For our final Mystery House, we're going back

up into the mountains to the tiny village of Vellego.

It's 25 minutes from the nearest lively town, with only 60 residents.

There are no shops, but there is a restaurant which forms the social heart.

And a few minutes out of the village, and set on its own,

is our final offering.

Come on down these few steps. There we are, guys.

That is our Mystery House.

-Mmm!

-We've gone for something a little more rural.

-Completely different.

Very rural.

It has this fantastic wraparound veranda-cum-balcony,

which absolutely milks those views over to the village.

-Stunning, absolutely stunning.

-Right, let's see what you think.

Let's have a look.

What the Mystery House offers is a property with some garden,

which I feel Kelly is hankering after,

but to get this, it is located outside of a community.

There.

-KELLY LAUGHS

-Very typical.

These lovely windows, that really make the best of that view,

of course. And of course the dining space as well,

-so it is very simple, it is quite spartan.

-It's a room.

SHE LAUGHS

-Is it a nice room?

-Potentially.

-I think potentially it is, yes.

-It's all about...

-Yes.

And I wanted open-plan,

and you've got the doors that open

straight out, so, yes.

It does need a bit of imagination, I think, but it is all kind of here.

This is the kitchen. There you go.

-Nice view out there.

-It's nice.

These doors all lead on to this balcony that wraps

itself around the property, which is stunning.

To be honest, I'd take a sledgehammer to that wall,

open it out completely and just turn it into one big room.

That's the spirit.

Imagination. That's what I asked for and that's what you're giving me.

I think that was a royal I, referring to the sledgehammer.

That's you, is it?

THEY LAUGH

But, yes, I agree completely. It would be fabulous.

Let's have a quick look at the bedroom here.

The main house is all on one level.

There is a bathroom, which serves the two bedrooms,

the smaller of which could be a guest room.

So this is by far the biggest of the two.

-Oh.

-It's probably twice as big as what is next door, to be honest.

-Right.

-Hence this, we think, would be the master.

-Yes.

-Oh, what an aspect.

-Yes, it is all about that, isn't it?

Just listen.

BIRDS TWEET

-It's just the birds.

-Fabulous.

I mean, I think this room makes it for me, to be perfectly honest.

-The idea of waking up with that to greet me.

-Yeah.

This is what I had in mind.

Does it hark back to what you remember as a child?

Yes, the simple tile floors,

big windows, opening out, sunshine.

Below the house is an annexe with a large bedroom and bathroom.

There is also an outdoor terrace area, which is

part constructed and would need a bit of finishing off, but it's the

outside area attached to the main house which I think

is the real draw here.

-There.

-Wow.

-It's what it's all about.

-It really is, isn't it?

-That's amazing.

There's Vellego. Look at the little bell tower over there.

-BELL RINGS

-Oh!

-Right on cue.

-On cue.

You know, if we tried to do that, it wouldn't have happened.

-Kelly, what's that?

-It's a lemon tree.

-It certainly is.

-THEY LAUGH

-And it's got a lot of lemons on it.

-Happy?

-Yes.

Yeah. See, that's another reason why we picked this as the Mystery House.

The plot size itself is really defined by that fence that is

right below us.

Although a bit more of this land is available if you would want it.

So have you got any thoughts on price at this moment?

-Say 180.

-200, to be more realistic.

-200.

-It's a lot of house.

-You're not far off, guys.

It is on the market for just under, it is £197,000.

We've explored up here, go and have a good old look down there.

-And I will come and find you later on.

-Thank you.

-Right, go that way.

-Thank you.

So, for £63,000 under budget,

this hillside rural retreat has

two bedrooms in the main house plus a one-bedroom guest annexe.

It is simple and open-plan

and has spectacular views out across the mountains.

It's got its own strip of garden with a lemon tree,

but the sacrifice is not being located in a village community.

Lemon tree.

Covered in lemons.

-It's not ripe yet.

-Smell that. Smell that.

-Oh...

-Fabulous.

-..wonderful!

-Absolutely...

-Wonderful. And an olive tree.

The house, I think, is absolutely typical, great Italian property.

The style, I love, the big veranda and the windows.

Great price.

HE SIGHS Private helicopter, whizz down town, great.

But, in the real world, it's...it's a dilemma.

It's the most amazing location, it's like Shangri-La.

Hidden away, but it's very remote.

I want to pick it up and just move it

20km down the mountain.

What a view to finish our series of

-Ligurian house tours with.

-Amazing.

I always hoped we'd see something like that on this trip,

and I haven't been disappointed.

And I think we've given you some really good options to think about.

I think you have.

Have we tempted you enough to buy one? Who knows?

-You've got lots to think about.

-We have.

-Should we go?

-Yes.

-Glass of wine, anyone?

-Yes.

-Oh, come on, then.

So far, we've spent much of our house hunt in Liguria's western Riviera.

But now I'm heading to the eastern stretch and the town of Chiavari.

For centuries it was an important commercial port filled with

hundreds of traditional enterprises based in the ancient arcades.

Remarkably, some of the old trades continue today and I'm meeting Princi -

a local resident who can help me find out more.

-Princi.

-Hi, Jules.

-Nice to see you.

-Nice to see you.

The medieval old town is full of caruggi -

the name given to the typical narrow streets.

Princi, this is a beautiful town and its history is everywhere.

-But what's it most famous for?

-The famous food is corzetti.

-And my best friend makes Curzetti Stampae.

-Your best friend?

Yeah, my best friend.

-I have come to the right place.

-Yeah.

Corzetti is a type of pasta.

In shape it's like a medallion

and it's imprinted with a design made by a wooden stamp.

It's unique to Liguria.

Franco Casoni, a world-famous sculptor

and woodcarver, is one craftsman who is still making these stamps.

-Hi, Franco.

-Ciao.

Franco, this is Jules. This is Franco, my best friend.

-Very nice to see you.

-My name is Franco.

He makes Curzetti Stampae.

So you're making the pasta with patterns in it

-and these are what you use to get the design?

-Yeah.

And what's the history behind the Curzetti Stampae?

OK, in the middle age, the bread was home-made

but not cooked in the houses.

So they brought the bread to a common bakery

and they needed to put a mark on the bread to recognise it.

-So the stamp meant that you got your bread back from the bakery.

-Yeah.

Only in Italy would I find a story that combines beautiful craftsmanship with food.

Si. Yeah.

This tradition of marking food then moved to pasta.

The designs became more ingenious, featuring coats of arms,

names, and lucky symbols.

-Any design is put on? Yeah.

-You prefer this design?

-The name, your name.

-Well, my name, it's a Latin name, actually.

-It's Julian or Jules for short.

-Look.

-This moment.

-He's going to do this in no...

This is going to be a speed cut, isn't it?

'Each stamp has a top and bottom and can feature a different design.

'They're made from beech, as it's a wood which doesn't flavour the food.'

He's so quick, he's so fast.

-Ah!

-HE LAUGHS

I love it, Franco, well done.

-But, doesn't it need another side, another half?

-Yes, this is the top.

-Are you going to try to carve it?

-Can I try and do this?

-Yeah.

Of course, we're doing it backwards, which doesn't help.

I have no room for the S.

No, no, no. S, this.

Oh!

-OK. Bravo.

-Just.

Bravo.

There, there's the top and there's your perfect bottom.

So what do you think, Princi?

They are fine but I think that we need to test it with pasta.

Thank you very much. I'm really hungry, let's go. Come on.

-Ciao.

-Ciao.

-Ciao.

Just around the corner is a traditional Ligurian trattoria,

where chef, Samir, serves corzetti pasta.

-Hi, Samir.

-Hi.

This is Jules.

Hi, Samir. Nice to see you.

We have a Curzetti Stampae.

-So we just need some pasta to go with it.

-Yeah, yeah.

We've come to the right place.

What kind of a dish is he going to make for us?

We will eat a dish with corzetti and pesto.

I love pesto.

The medallions are cut out from the rolled pasta

and are then ready to be stamped.

-It's like making biscuits, isn't it?

-Yeah.

Franco's stamp is on the top half and my effort is on the bottom.

Well, let's see how they've worked out. There we are, Princi.

-That is Franco's side, isn't it?

-Yes.

-It's nice.

-But, let's have a look, ready?

-Yeah.

-SHE LAUGHS

-It's rubbish.

That's my side, you can barely see it.

But it's not going to affect what they taste like.

I can't wait to try that covered in pesto, beautifully cooked.

There we are, sir. Thank you very much.

-Let's leave the chef to his work. Come on.

-OK.

It's not just these stamps that are unique to Liguria.

So too is pesto.

It originated in Genoa,

but is now one of the most popular sauces across Italy.

It's made with garlic, basil, pine nuts, oil and Parmesan.

One thing that has become more obvious to me

is just how important food is.

Yeah, it is our identity

this kind of food and for Italians it's very important.

-Grazie.

-Grazie.

I can't actually see the marks of the stamp any more

but that doesn't matter because it's now covered, bathed, in pesto.

Ready?

Bon appetit in Italy.

You probably would expect me to say this...

but, genuinely, that is absolutely delicious.

It's handmade pasta, it's handmade pesto.

It's been stamped with my very own handmade stamp.

-Princi, thank you very much.

-Cheers.

-Cheers.

Here's to you. And Chiavari.

So, with all our houses viewed,

we've come to the end of our property hunt in Liguria.

-Is that everything?

-Not quite.

-Oh, no, don't forget that.

-Goodness.

-And... Lemons.

My lovely lemons.

It's time to pack up and think about what they have seen

and make some decisions about what's next.

Well, how about that for a bit of Italian fun?

And that's what we've been having this week - loads of fun.

But, with a serious intent -

to try and find Michael and Kelly a place they can call home in Liguria.

We've spoiled them, frankly, with options, they can choose only one.

But which one will it be? Well, let's go and ask them.

-Well, Kelly and Michael, it's been quite a fun few days.

-It has.

-It's been great.

-Exhausted? Yes.

-A rollercoaster.

We've given you lots of options but which one was your favourite?

I think I'd have to say the Mystery House.

That surprises me and I think it surprises Michael too. Why?

Because I could see the potential in it.

Beautiful location,

looking across that stunning village was just gorgeous.

I think if you and I had to make a bet we'd have said it was

-the apartment in Albenga.

-Yes.

I did like that, I did like that a lot, actually.

And I could see myself spending some very happy times

pottering about in that apartment.

But there was something about just being able to have that garden,

little bit of garden.

That last house, lovely house, but we have a budget.

That house is where it is because it's within the budget.

Move it where you want it and we can't afford it.

And we can't get away from the fact that we like being

near people in a community and no matter how lovely the other

place would be, I don't think we'd enjoy it in the long term.

You loved the Mystery House for all its charm and simplicity and because

it harks back to what you knew here as a child and, of course, those views.

But you recognise it's in the wrong place.

So what would be on your wish list now?

What will you go looking for in the future?

-Well, I know what I'm going to look for.

-Go on.

I'm going to look for that little house further down the hill!

Sorry.

Well, guys, it's been a lot of fun, as I'm sure anybody

-watching this will know.

-It's been great.

We've explored, we've travelled, we've met some great people,

we've seen some fantastic countryside.

And we've rather enjoyed the food and drink, haven't we?

We certainly have. It's been great, thank you very much.

-Well, here's to you. Cheers.

-Chin-chin.

-Salute.

You know, I have to confess,

that I have fallen a little bit in love with Liguria this week,

just as Kelly did all those years ago.

And although it is a bit disappointing that

we haven't found them the home they were looking for, at least they

now have a much clearer idea of what they are going to be looking for.

And, in my experience, that is half the battle in finding any new home.

So, from me and Liguria, arrivederci.

I'll see you next time.