Puglia Escape to the Continent

Welcome to Escape To The Continent. The historical hill town behind me

that shines out against the surrounding lush countryside is,

understandably, known as Citta Bianca, the White City.

But where is it? And why was the whole town painted white?

Find out in just a moment.

Coming up, we meet a husband and wife venturing to

uncharted territory, where they find a world

of novel bricks and mortar.

-Cosy?

-Cosy.

-Thinking of all those words apart from small.

-Small, yeah.

But soon, the adventure opens out into a rather hands-on experience.

-Oh, he hasn't done that before.

-No, he hasn't.

We haven't had a stroking moment.

Today, I'm in southern Italy, in the Puglia region,

and this is the hilltop town of Ostuni.

It is believed the whitewashing of the whole town is

a result of the plague during the 17th century.

In an attempt to prevent the disease from spreading,

homes of infected residents were singled out and painted white,

using a mixture of limestone,

dust and water to deter people from entering.

Soon locals began to notice there seem to be less illness

around these white homes and promptly put it down to a miracle,

although in truth, it is more likely

the calcium carbonate in the limewash

acting as a natural disinfectant which helped save the townspeople.

Today, Ostuni is still painted white

and stands as testament to its rather lucky escape.

But this stunning town is certainly not all Puglia has to offer.

Just under a three-hour flight from London, Puglia encompasses

the long strip of land that makes up the heel of the Italian boot.

As such, the area benefits from the longest coastline of any

mainland region in Italy,

lapped by the waters of both the Adriatic and Ionian Seas.

This strategic coastal position has had a lengthy influence

on Puglia's history.

And the area features many fortified towns carved into the cliffs.

One gem is Gallipoli, an important trading port during the 17th

and 18th centuries for lamp oil,

produced from the abundance of olive trees.

In fact, the region is carpeted by olive groves

and has the highest concentration in all of Italy.

Well-known for its cuisine,

80% of the nation's pasta is produced here.

And Puglia's signature orecchiette shape is still

handmade by artisans in the region's capital of Bari.

But what really gives this place its identity must be its architecture.

And this is the home of the trulli,

which are distinct cone-topped cottages unique to Puglia.

The first trulli date back to the 16th century

and were originally mortarless constructions.

Today, these rural dwellings are getting snapped up by foreign

buyers who have transformed them into wonderful individual houses,

so much so that British expats living here now affectionately refer

to the region as Trullishire.

With a warm, dry climate and a plentiful supply of historic

Italian homes, it is no wonder that in the last ten years,

Puglia has become a bit of a hotspot for British buyers.

What's more, the region's house prices are very appealing too,

particularly as they can be up to 60% cheaper than back home.

The average cost of a modern three-bedroom villa

starts at about £100,000,

whereas a traditional farmhouse that has been renovated will

set you back around £200,000.

Now, that is approximately half the amount

you would pay for the equivalent property in the pricier

Italian regions of Umbria and Tuscany.

So what type of home are today's buyers looking for here in Puglia?

Well, let's meet them and find out.

Devoted husband and wife Malcolm

and Julie have just celebrated their 30-year wedding anniversary.

And for the last two decades, they have lived in a 300-year-old

three-bedroom cottage in the Kent village of Bridge.

But after holidaying in Tuscany a few times, they now have ideas

on a more Continental adventure for the next chapter of their lives.

This isn't like that old cliche, you know, you go on holiday

-and you fall in love with the place.

-It went deeper than that.

-There was something else. You can't really put your finger on it.

-No.

So we love the place. We really do.

Love the lifestyle as well.

The first thing that strikes you as soon as you drive through

Italy is just the scenery, the landscape, the climate.

And then obviously, once you are settling in there,

I just love the restaurant life, the cafe culture.

I love the wine. I absolutely adore the wine.

Malcolm is now retired after a career spent as a zoo keeper

for Howletts Wild Animal Park.

And Julie now works part-time at the local doctor's surgery after

a career in pharmaceuticals.

But they both hope the new Italian lifestyle will enable them

to focus more on their hobbies.

I love my cookery. And I think when you are in the country, it is

the best place to actually learn to cook properly.

Hopefully, I'll learn, you know, by visiting places

and seeing other people cooking.

We both love antiques as well, so...

And out there, they have the most amazing architectural,

agricultural...

I don't want to call it bric-a-brac, but we just love going around and

we just imagine filling our house with all these beautiful things.

One of the things I really enjoy is painting,

which I haven't done for years and years.

Now I've retired, I'm getting back into it.

So I am still at the learning stage at the moment.

But, no, I really enjoy. I really do enjoy it.

Malcolm built himself an art studio

at the bottom of their prize-winning garden and the couple

have spent a lot of time

beautifully renovating their listed period property.

In fact, another historic

and characterful home is high on the agenda when they move,

as well as getting to grips with the local lingo.

Italian is something I've always loved.

I think it is quite critical, really,

for me particularly, to be able to get a handle

on the Italian language,

as Malcolm...it's not really his second nature to speak

a second language.

I've already sort of tried to learn whenever we've been abroad.

Once I am normally immersed in the place I stay,

I have a very uncanny way of picking up a language,

as long as there is the old couple of glasses of wine available.

SHE CHUCKLES

Despite spending their whole lives in Kent, the decision to swap

the UK for Italy on a permanent basis was prompted

by a serious illness Malcolm suffered just a few years ago.

And now he's been given the all clear,

the experience has brought about a renewed zest for life.

When you hear the C word, you do think, you know,

you haven't got a lot longer.

And it is quite scary. So

as long as I've got a few more years,

I want to do it somewhere else.

I think it's going to actually generate a healthier lifestyle

for us that will help us, you know, keep us both fit and healthy

for a bit longer at least.

It really makes you sort of appreciate your mortality.

I think we both thought, you know, if we don't do it, we never will.

We never will, right. So we've got to do it.

Got to do it.

Julie and Malcolm have set their hearts on moving to Italy

but are looking for the best value for money, so have decided to try

Puglia, which is a region they have never previously visited.

We'll be exploring the area between Bari and Brindisi

at the top of the heel,

near the beautiful landscape of the Itria Valley, which is

a particularly popular part of Puglia with foreign buyers.

And now our couple have arrived here in Italy, we are all meeting

up to discuss the specifics of their planned relocation.

So, Malcolm and Julie, welcome to Puglia.

-Cos you're big fans of Italy, aren't you?

-We are.

Absolutely love it. We love it.

And hopefully, this country is going to be your future home.

But why Puglia? Why have you decided you want to explore this region?

We've already explored Tuscany and Umbria,

and we thought we'd come down this way to see what this was like.

That is the reason why we're here.

And what is it about the Italian lifestyle that so appeals

to you both?

I think it's a completely different culture - more family orientated,

more social. I mean, the food and the wine just goes without saying.

And then you are surrounded by fabulous scenery to boot.

-It's exciting, cos you don't know this region at all.

-No.

-No.

-Not at all.

-So it's going to be interesting to see what you think.

So describe to me your ideal property. What does it look like?

Well, we've certainly looked at the trullis,

which I think are just so quaint.

And it is something we have never stayed in or looked at.

So it is a real... Sort of quite exciting to see

something that is a little bit different from the traditional

sort of...I suppose Italian idea of a country house.

-We don't want a big house.

-No?

-Two, three bedrooms.

And a small piece of ground, really.

-Enough room for the dogs?

-Oh, yes, absolutely.

-And you are both passionate about your gardening.

-Yes, we do.

Now, you have won awards in the UK for your wonderful garden.

So it is going to be interesting moving here - we are seeing Puglia

out of season.

But we know in the summer, it gets extremely hot.

-So, different challenges.

-Yeah.

I mean, that, in terms of gardening,

opens up a different opportunity for different types of plants.

At home, I struggle with growing vegetables.

I spent more money putting the stuff in the ground than

I got out of it. So I'm really looking forward...

I might be able to grow stuff that actually works!

So remind us of this budget. How much have we got to spend?

£300,000.

And does that include the taxes as well?

Yes. Having sort of done a little bit of research,

I know that we have got to think of what we've got to spend

on top to actually secure the properties.

So, I mean, I am assuming that is going to work out roughly about...

It is about 8%.

-OK.

-Roughly 8%.

So the actual value of the house we're looking at is about 280,000.

-Pounds, not euros.

-Yes.

And with this budget, do you think you are realistic?

Are we going to find what you want for your money?

-I think so.

-I think so, yes.

Having had sort of a bit of research in other parts of Italy

but not knowing this area, I think we are going to find

something pretty spectacular.

-Well, I think we should get started, don't you?

-Fantastic, yes. Let's go.

On a budget of £280,000,

our buyers are hoping to find

a characterful, traditional home

with at least two bedrooms

and enough outdoor space

for their two dogs,

gardening as well as veg growing.

Malcolm's keen to find somewhere

to indulge his love of painting

and inspiring beautiful views

would be a bonus for both of them.

We found a range of particularly distinct Puglia homes to

tempt our couple, but I'll be keeping the prices a guessing

game until the end of each tour.

And we'll be ending our property journey at the mystery house,

which is a somewhat unconventional offering in the context

of the regional standard.

Julie and Malcolm are completely new to the area,

so we'll be presenting them

with an out-of-season experience to give them

a better understanding of what everyday Italian life is

like in the winter before they make a permanent commitment to this move.

We are starting the search in the heart of the Itria Valley,

heading for the small town of Cisternino.

Full of whitewashed houses lining its narrow streets,

the historic town of Cisternino has a charming market square

and many amenities including shops and restaurants.

And about two miles outside of the town,

is the rather unique house we have lined up to kick off.

-So, this is rather exciting because it is...

-Wow.

-..our first property.

-Love this.

-Amazing.

-I love it.

-Absolutely beautiful.

-Wow.

-So, the exciting adventure starts.

You said you loved trulli houses, well,

how about owning your own trullo property?

-It's beautiful.

-How old is it?

-This dates back to the 17th century.

-Does it really?

-Yes. It is actually one property.

So you have got the main house. You can see there's three cones.

-Yes.

-And then this is an outbuilding,

-ripe for conversion.

-Oh, I see.

-That's up your street.

-I can't wait to get inside, really.

-Let's start.

Built from local limestone, this unusual collection of buildings

was renovated and turned into a holiday home three years ago.

We are entering the middle trullo,

and the front door leads straight into a living area.

Your voyage of discovery...

-starts here.

-Oh, wow.

Oh, wow!

-You're kid... Oh, my.

-This is amazing.

-It really is amazing.

-A bit like a hobbit's house.

-It is.

-It is.

So a little bit of the history about these properties.

It is believed that when tax came in on properties, the farmers,

rather than paying tax, they built these temporary homes.

And that is the keystone just behind us.

So when the men came round to collect the taxes,

the farmer literally pulled out the keystone,

the whole thing would have come to the floor, just a pile of stones,

wouldn't have had to pay any tax.

When the king's men went, started to build it again.

-Ah.

-And that was the whole idea.

So originally, they wouldn't have had any cement, any mortar.

It literally... It was just

very cleverly, all done by hand, put together.

I love it. It's great.

-So this is your sitting room.

-Oh, it is?!

-Right, OK.

-Yeah.

-Oh, well, um...

-So...tidy, compact?

-Bijou, yes.

We'll have to sell some furniture, won't we?

SHE LAUGHS All of it.

There's only two of us.

-Next door, you've got the family shower room.

-OK.

And a little bit of storage in there as well.

You've got a bedroom through there.

But let's wander through, and I'll show you the kitchen.

Oh, wow.

The kitchen is found beyond a small seating area and

occupies its own trullo.

Oh, wow.

-Oh, amazing.

-Oh, wow.

-Oh, I love this. Plenty of space.

-Yeah.

So, how much are we challenging you?

Because, let's be honest,

-this isn't your run-of-the-mill property, is it?

-It's not, no.

You couldn't get any more different than this, can you? To be honest.

Does Kent seem a long way away?

It does. It seems like a for... Well, we are in a foreign land, but...

I don't know, it almost seems biblical inside as well.

-Doesn't it?

-That's a good description.

-Yeah.

-Well, shall we continue?

-Yes.

-The master bedroom is next door.

-OK.

-Well, it's this way. It's a decent size, isn't it?

-Gosh, it is, yeah.

Another hole up there. Is that where put your husbands when they snore?

-Is it large enough for the two of you?

-Oh, yes.

Probably big enough, yeah. It's only the two of us.

Well, we do have an en-suite, and it is a generous size en-suite as well.

Fabulous, fabulous.

Everywhere you look, it is just bright, light, airy...

-It's beautiful.

-Yeah, I love it.

I couldn't be more thrilled with Julie and Malcolm's reactions

to our first property.

And I think they'll also love the fact that it comes

with 3.5 acres of land,

giving Julie plenty of scope to put her green fingers to good use.

Oh, wow.

-It is something else, isn't it?

-Beautiful, absolutely stunning.

-It's amazing.

-So now, we are going to have to discuss finances.

Are you going to have a stab? What do we think it is on the market for?

I think...

260.

-OK.

-I was roughly around that, about 250 I was thinking.

But I don't know. I have nothing to measure it against.

It's really hard, so...about 250, 260.

Asking price for this, our first home -

275.

-Is it?

-Oh, wow.

-£275,000.

-Mm-hm.

-You were both pretty close, weren't you?

-Yeah.

-I think you should have another look around on your own this time.

-OK.

-Why don't you?

-That would be brilliant.

-See you in a minute.

-Thanks.

-Thanks.

What a fantastic start. But what a property!

This one has really set the bar high.

This unique and historic home

comes in at £5,000 under Julie and Malcolm's budget.

And with one trullo not yet converted,

there's the opportunity for Malcolm to create his very own art studio.

The property is full of the rustic charm they're after

and features two bedrooms,

two bathrooms,

as well as a substantial

plot of land that could be perfect

for both dogs and gardening.

Absolutely beautiful. Everywhere you look.

Here is a bit of a doer-upper, Malc.

Yeah, it is, isn't it? Dark in here, though, isn't it?

You can see what this was like before they actually started

-doing anything.

-Yeah.

-So would you have to strip it all back and...?

It really wants doing properly, doesn't it?

It's the surprise when you get inside.

You know, they're more spacious than you think they are.

And light and airy.

And I just think they're great little houses, they really are.

I could see myself living here. I really could.

It's the first time I've ever been inside a trullo

and it was nothing like I was expecting.

Very individual, very beautifully done.

You know, at home, we've got an old, quirky house.

If we move to Italy, we'd have an old, quirky house here,

wouldn't we? So it'd be all right.

-Happy?

-Absolutely wonderful.

-It is an extraordinary property, isn't it?

What a way to start off our house search.

-And that's only the first one. Ready to go?

-Yes.

-Yep.

With spirits high, we are keeping up the momentum

and travelling straight to our next property.

We are heading west, and the destination is Martina Franca,

staying within the picturesque Itria Valley.

A fair-sized town, Martina Franca is full of history,

featuring grand architecture and a mix of Baroque influences,

nowhere more so than the heavily sculpted Basilica, where many operas

and classical music concerts are performed

throughout the summer months.

At the heart of the town is an elegant paved square

and there is a good selection of shops and facilities to hand.

The next house is just three miles away.

And after a great response from both parties to the trulli home

this morning, we have lined up another one.

So, continuing your love affair with trulli houses...

-take a look at this.

-Oh, wow, different.

-Very different.

-It is, isn't it? Nice.

So there is your original trullo property, around 18th century.

It has got three cones.

And you always get the steps to the side,

so it is easy access to maintain the roof.

You'll always see that. But you've actually got an extension,

a more modern extension, on the side,

which gives you a lot more space.

Right, OK.

It looks good from the outside.

-Shall we step inside?

-Yes, let's.

This majestic property marries old

and new with its traditional trulli and modern adjoining villa.

We're starting off in the oldest part of the property,

where the door leads into a living/dining room.

Step inside.

Oh, wow.

-This is different.

-It's different.

-Yeah.

-Impactful, isn't it? Not what you expect.

-No.

Actually, I quite like it.

-In a way, it has been divided into three parts.

-Yep.

Because here are your three cones. So you've got a seated area here.

Then you've got your dining area.

And at the far end, you've got a wonderful fire

and another little sitting room

-with access to the garden.

-Perfect.

-Excellent.

Well, we know the extension was done relatively recently.

-Let's see what you make of this.

-OK.

-So, we present to you a tiled Italian kitchen.

-Oh, right.

-Gosh, that is a contrast.

-It is.

-I wasn't expecting that at all, actually. I like this.

-I'm confused.

-Are you?

-Yeah, entirely confused.

-Why does it confuse you, Malcolm?

You see a trulli and you don't expect to see a modern extension on it.

I am open-minded. It is warming on me.

-Let's continue.

-Yes.

-On that note.

-Right.

A narrow corridor leads along the extension.

And next door to the kitchen is a shower room.

At the other end is a large and bright spare bedroom

and in the middle is the master.

-This has its own en-suite.

-Right.

Something we've never had the luxury of at home

because of the age of the house.

This is actually a nice size, a very nice size.

Julie and Malcolm do seem to be pretty receptive

to our properties so far, which is great.

I can't wait to show them the grounds here.

Leading out from the extension is a pleasant patio. But that's not all.

Oh, beautiful.

Oh, wow.

-Gosh, that's a surprise.

-So, what do you think?

-Fantastic.

-Oh, yeah.

What a view.

And what a pool!

-You can cook outside, you've got an oven there.

-I'm liking that.

-So regarding the land, it's quite large, over two acres.

-Wow.

But the good news is, the local farmer takes care of it for you.

All this strip,

he grows animal feed - looks after it,

takes care of it, you don't have to do anything.

But it means it is all yours, but you don't have to do the hard work.

I like the sound of that.

Right. And... (It's quiet.)

-It's really quiet.

-So peaceful.

I realise it is an awful lot to take in.

But we are going to now have to try and put a price on this property.

-I think it is going to be at least on or maybe above.

-300.

-Do you think?

-I think so.

-300, Malcolm?

-Yeah.

290, I was thinking. 295.

The asking price

-is around £358,000.

-Wow.

-That's a lot more than I thought.

-Well, I don't want to scare you.

-OK.

-I'm going to give you another price.

-OK.

The owner will accept

-£280,000.

-Really? My God!

-Yeah.

-Really?

-Yep. I think you need another look around.

-I do, yeah.

-Off you go.

-OK.

-See you in a minute.

The benefits of property shopping here out of the tourist

season is that there are fewer buyers to compete with,

therefore potentially more bargains to be had.

So although this updated trulli is on the market for £78,000

over Julie and Malcolm's budget,

the owner is willing to accept exactly what they have got to spend.

The property has two bedrooms with the added bonus of an en-suite.

And outside, the two-acre garden comes with a large patio

and a swimming pool.

The property is a combination of the two styles - traditional and modern.

And so when you first came in, it was quite a lot to

take in in one go and get a sort of an immediate positive, I think.

But having had the chance to walk around it, you can

see how the traditional side has worked really well and is very cosy.

And then obviously, moving into the modern side,

what you'd be able to add on to it.

I can see the benefits of the modern part, obviously,

because you have the newer rooms,

a bit more space in the total unit size,

but I think it lost what I loved in the first property -

that real traditional, sort of country, cosy feel.

Pleasantly surprised at what you can do with one of these.

The layout is very good. The grounds are ideal, really.

But I don't think it is the house for us.

Have I given you both enough time to have a good look around?

-Yes, yes, you have.

-It is not your usual house search here, is it?

-No.

-Absolutely not.

-Kept you on your toes?

-Yes.

-Yeah?

Given us lots to think about, lots to think about.

Good. Well, that is it as far as the houses go for today,

because, as you can see, it is getting dark,

but I do have one final thing to show you.

-Let's jump in the car.

-OK.

-Right.

As the night draws in, we've travelled back to Cisternino,

where Julie and Malcolm's taste of the real Puglia can really begin...

Follow me.

..as we have arranged for them to stay in a self-catering apartment

in the centre of the small town.

Step inside.

Because this is where you are going to be staying for the next

-few nights.

-Wonderful.

-Fantastic.

So, we have brought you to the town of Cisternino, which is

-a beautiful old medieval town.

-Excellent.

-Excellent.

You don't want to stay in a generic hotel when you could be

in the heart of the town, experiencing all things Italian.

-So there is the key.

-Thank you.

-Make yourselves at home.

Your cases are already in. There is food in the fridge.

Feel free to explore tonight, have a wander.

Do get some rest because tomorrow I have got some more properties

-to show you.

-Brilliant.

-Yeah? Enjoy.

-Lovely.

-Thank you.

-See you.

Amazing, huh?

-Yeah.

-Get the kettle on.

That's it. I hope they get a good night's sleep.

It is the dawn of a new day for our property search

in the beautiful Italian region of Puglia, where, unlike the long,

sunny days of the summer, we are limited to just

nine hours of daylight, and today we have got a lot to get through.

Well, a rather pleasant surprise start of our house search

here in Puglia with Malcolm and Julie.

The first property we showed them was a trulli house,

or if they are on their own, it is called a trullo.

Now, this one was rustic, quite remote and, guess what,

they both seemed to love it.

I thought it might be a step too far to start off with,

but, no, they embraced it.

So let's see how we get on today with the next property.

Ah! Well, hello. This is where you are hiding.

-Did you have a good night last night?

-Yes.

-Lovely, thank you.

How was the accommodation?

-Perfect.

-Great.

-Beautiful.

You managed to put houses out of your mind for a little bit, I hope.

-Just a little bit.

-Ready for the next challenge.

Really? And what about the town? This is a beautiful spot.

I love the square.

Yes, we had a little wander around. Beautiful little streets.

It is a very pretty little place.

-How is the Italian? Have you tried?

-Not.

-JULIE LAUGHS

-Come on, Malcolm!

-Little bit of the lingo?

-No...

-You've not got it, have you?

-No, I haven't got it.

-You ordered a coffee, so you've got something.

-Julie done that.

THEY LAUGH

So, if you want to finish your drinks, then off we'll go.

-All right.

-Brilliant.

-Come on, then.

Before we get back to the business of house hunting,

I want to introduce Julie and Malcolm to a couple

who've already made the move to this region.

We've come to the small town of Alberobello, where we are meeting

expats Sue and Klaus Derigs at the local market.

Sue and Klaus, great to meet you.

-Thank you for inviting us here this morning.

-Lovely to meet you.

And I'd love to introduce you to Julie and Malcolm,

who are hoping to follow in your footsteps, because you have

made a very successful new life for yourselves out here.

I mean, you are practically local, aren't you?

-They're hoping to do the same.

-We are, yep.

I think I might go and have a coffee and leave you guys to it,

-how does that sound?

-Yep.

-Sounds good.

-We'll sort it out, yes.

Thank you. See you later.

-OK. Bye. Shall we go over this way?

-Yes.

The lads and ladies are splitting up,

so no prizes for guessing where Julie and Sue are heading first.

-The shoes are down this way.

-Oh, brilliant.

-So we'll go down.

My favourite department store.

They are rather nice. Lots of them.

Do you find generally clothes

and shoes or just generally things a lot cheaper out here?

-On the market stalls, they're very cheap.

-Yeah.

Scusi.

Grazie.

-See, that is the type of thing I wear.

-Oh, you like these type.

-Yeah.

-There are gorgeous. Is that 79?

-79 euros. Cos they are leather,

they're quite expensive. They are not your ten euro...

Kilo.

On the other side of the market, Malcolm and Klaus are picking up

provisions for lunch.

Originally from Germany, Klaus spent 30 years

working in the UK, which is where he met his wife, Sue.

-OK?

-OK, grazie.

So, grapes we need.

The cost of living is generally lower here

in the south of Italy than the wealthier northern regions.

And on average,

groceries in Puglia are about 30% cheaper than the UK.

-Kilo.

-Kilo.

The weekly markets are great places to find the best bargains,

particularly fresh fruit and vegetables,

much of which is grown locally.

-There you go.

-OK.

Un euro, cinquanta.

-Was that 1.50?

-1.50 a kilo.

God, we get the small boxes like this at home for about two or three quid.

As well as the fantastic market,

Alberobello also boasts

the highest concentration of trulli in the world.

With over 1,000 of the quaint limestone buildings lining

the streets, the town has been recognised as a World Heritage Site.

And when Sue and Klaus visited Puglia,

they decided the trulli life

was the way forward for their retirement.

After a few years of challenging renovation work, they finally moved

into their property eight years ago, where we have all come for lunch.

How easy is the whole buying process, in your opinion,

out here in Italy?

-It was quite simple, really.

-I think if you have good support...

In that sense, I think we've been quite lucky.

Can I ask, things like water, electricity, gas, I mean,

are they expensive over here?

Energy costs in Italy are the highest in Europe.

I mean, we have central heating system,

which was the biggest mistake we ever made.

When we first came here, it was 60 cents a litre for gas.

And it is now 97 cents.

In the first year, I spent 4,000 euros

and I wasn't even warm.

-Really, 4,000?!

-So that's why we reverted to a wood burner.

And how many months of the winter would you say you rely on that?

-Definitely...

-There is a very honest answer which may surprise you.

-November...

-You have to heat from about late October to March, April.

-Right, OK.

-Just like in the UK.

-OK.

The idea that there is permanent sunshine and warmth, just forget it.

What about water over here?

Because some properties aren't on mains water, it has to be delivered.

You learn to appreciate water. You don't waste it.

If you have a shower...

I turn the water off in-between... Sort of wetting my hair,

turn the water off, shampoo, turn it back on again...

You have done a wonderful job here, it is a beautiful home.

I mean, trulli, specifically trullos,

we have seen a few now,

and I just wonder what the realities are of actually living in one.

Most trullos have got quite small kitchens.

And also they can be quite dark because you've got the small windows,

whereas we were lucky. Because the back of the house was all

extended, we could put in great big windows, which in the trullo,

you can't normally, because sometimes it is just the one door in and out.

Malcolm, have you been surprised

how many trullis there are in this region?

I didn't... I just thought there'd be a couple hundred.

I thought it was quite rare.

I didn't realise there'd be thousands of them.

They're all right. Julie loves them better than I do.

Well, listen, it has been so insightful. Thank you both.

And hopefully, we've brought Malcolm

and Julie a big step closer to making that big decision.

-Thank you very much.

-Thank you.

-I hope we haven't discouraged you.

-No, you didn't. There's plenty to think about.

-Yes.

-Thank you.

-Thank you.

If Julie and Malcolm do take the plunge and move to Puglia,

there are a few things they need to bear in mind.

On average, it is wise to factor in an extra 8% to 10%

of the overall purchase price to buy a property in Italy,

which is to cover taxes and fees.

It is also best to confirm the percentage that your agent

charges before you begin your property search.

And if you want to buy a trullo, remember that

they are protected buildings,

much like listed properties back home,

and so have strict regulations when it comes to renovations.

Hopefully, Sue and Klaus's vital information will better

prepare Julie and Malcolm about the practicalities of life in Puglia.

But we have still got houses to see, so it is back to the property hunt.

The house we have lined up today is towards the north of the region,

around four miles from Castellana Grotte,

which is about a 20 minutes' drive to the sea.

Castellana Grotte is a small

but well-serviced town with all the essential shops and amenities.

The next property is set in a centuries-old olive grove

that covers around three acres.

And when it comes to the design, we're sticking to the regional style

but this time with a twist.

So you may have gathered, there is a little bit of a theme

going on with your house hunt here in Puglia, isn't there?

Another lovely trulli.

Now, this one is a little bit different

because it is not one but there's two properties.

Oh, wow.

There are two properties, but I don't want to confuse you too much.

So this is the one that we're looking at, but we

will cast our eye on the other one, because that is for sale as well.

-Really?

-Yes.

-Interesting.

-Stunning.

-Yeah.

-Just take a look around us, just in this garden alone.

You're not going to have blood in your veins, you're going

to have olive oil if you buy this property.

-Shall we start the tour?

-Yes.

-Yeah.

This delightful trulli was renovated around seven years ago using

traditional methods to retain its rustic and authentic look.

Nestled against a striking olive green backdrop,

the original limestone walls are fitted with handmade windows,

shutters and inviting front door.

Welcome to your trullo house.

-This is very twee, isn't it? Very cute.

-It is, isn't it? It is.

We all did the same thing as we stepped through the door -

we looked up.

-Yeah.

-Because you just do, don't you?

You can't help it, actually.

If you had a cat, you couldn't swing it, could you?

JULIE LAUGHS

-Intimate?

-Yes, very.

-Cosy.

-Cosy...

-Thinking of all of those words apart from small.

-Small, yeah.

-However, it is not lacking in character and style...

-No.

..as you will see as we continue, she says hopefully.

Yeah.

-Because this, actually, is rather large in comparison.

-Oh, wow.

-Actually, it is.

-This is lovely. This is amazing.

-Yeah.

Actually, it is a nice kitchen. Yeah, very nice.

-I like this a lot.

-You've got a bathroom behind you.

-Oh, yeah.

-All right.

-A beautiful walk-in shower, to be fair.

All tiled, all done. You've got a bedroom here.

That could be your hobby room.

That could be a very small sitting room, if you wanted to.

-Because this property has three bedrooms.

-Oh, wow.

So let's look at the master.

-Oh, gosh, this is a good size.

-Oh, yeah. I like the sloping ceilings.

-Yeah.

-Yeah. That's different.

Actually, we are quite surprised that it is so big.

Yeah, I like it.

The other one is a good size as well, just across the corridor.

-You also have the master en-suite.

-Excellent.

Again, beautifully tiled throughout.

It wouldn't need anything doing to it.

So although this house was converted in 2007,

it does look like it is a brand-new conversion.

-It does, yeah.

-I must admit, it does.

-So, do you love it?

-I do. I am warming.

As we are moving in, I am warming to it.

The initial bit, when you walk into the front door, you think,

"Oh, blimey, this is a bit bijou."

-We are trying to avoid the SMALL word.

-Yeah.

And then you think the rest of the house is going to be like that,

-you know.

-And it's not.

-No.

This house may be full surprises, but it is not alone.

Outside, the property comes with a huge swimming pool

and its share of the land that equates to about an acre.

The other two acres belong to its neighbour at the far

end of the drive, which is equally eye-catching and enchanting.

This is lovely, absolutely beautiful.

Look at this.

Oh, wow.

So...

-Your second trullo.

-I think this is nicer, actually.

-Yeah, I love this entrance.

-Yeah.

-This, a little bit more generous.

-Yeah.

-Which isn't a bad thing.

-No.

But basically, the layout for the rest of the property is the same.

The only difference is, you have actually got archways through here.

-It has got, I would say, more character.

-I like that.

-Yeah, I do.

Immediate reaction, more character.

Like its neighbour, this striking trulli also has three bedrooms -

a small single and a spacious twin room,

which are both served by a good-sized tiled shower room,

then there is another bright

and sunny double that comes complete with an en-suite.

-I prefer this one, to be honest.

-Do you?

-Because of the size. Yeah.

Oh, interesting.

I'm not going to give too much away

cos we're going to head back outside.

Malcolm, if you wouldn't mind...

As we are out of season here in Puglia,

the night is creeping up on us again,

but we still need to talk money back at the first trulli conversion,

which is the one we had earmarked for our couple.

So let's see if we can guess the price for this property.

Now, this one comes with the pool and about an acre of land.

I think it is probably on the money, at 280.

I thought... About 290, 300, I was thinking.

This is where I get really excited.

Because it is way under.

-Oh, wow.

-Yeah.

Asking price - £200,000.

-Really?

-This property, this part of the land and the pool.

-Oh, my God!

-Now, I'm going to add one more thing to the mix.

I know you didn't come out here wanting to have a rental

property, however if you buy both of them together,

you get in total three acres of land, you get a revenue of roughly

£20,000 a year on that property, and you can buy them both

for £320,000.

Oh, my God.

Have another look around.

-Be careful, because it is now rather dark.

-OK.

-And then we'll leave when you're ready.

-Brilliant.

-Go on. Thank you.

OK.

-No tripping up now.

-No, no, try not.

Well, this Puglian proposition has certainly given

Julie and Malcolm food for thought.

Here they have the choice of one property £80,000

under their budget or two for £40,000 over.

But they could make that back in a few years

and then have a nice little annual earner on their hands.

Both trulli come with wonderful original features

and three bedrooms each,

one which could become Malcolm's art room.

And whichever way they buy, they'd have beautiful grounds

ideal for gardening as well as their dogs,

plus a fantastic pool too.

That does surprise me that there's two on offer here,

and the swimming pool, which is great.

And for the potential of a business of B&B,

which is something we never actually thought about.

There are cute. They are cute.

I feel they are a bit too small to actually live in. So...

That is my personal opinion, anyway.

Seeing the trullis now has become quite infectious.

I'm actually beginning to sort of fall in love with them

in a way that I didn't expect to.

They've got something quite magical about them.

But I hope tomorrow we will see something completely different.

Please!

Now, I am trulli'd out.

I am.

-How are we?

-Well.

-Very impressed.

-Yeah?

-Wonderful.

Well, the sun has definitely set. It is pitch-black.

-You can tell we are in the country, can't you?

-Yes.

-Have you seen enough, though?

-Yes.

-In all seriousness.

-We have.

-Has he?

-Very, very.

-Oh, you two have so much to think and talk about, don't you?

I know. I don't even know where to start.

-I'm going to take you home now, come on.

-OK.

It is the final day of house hunting in Italy, where we are helping

Kent-based couple Malcolm

and Julie find their own little patch of Puglia

on a £280,000 budget.

They are staying in an apartment within the historic

walls of Cisternino,

where they are starting their day with breakfast on the balcony

whilst practising their language skills.

How do you say... "How are you?"

-Come sar?

-Come sta?

-Come sta?

And...

"Very well."

Sto bene.

Oh, that's right, yeah. Yeah.

-It's quiet, isn't it?

-Very quiet. I was surprised at that.

-The locals are nice, though.

-Lots of help. Thank goodness.

I don't think I'd have been able to find the wine shop.

-Does this compare to your expectations, like, in Tuscany?

-No.

-No?

-No.

-It's very different.

-Mm-hm.

Seems like Malcolm is developing reservations about Puglia.

Perhaps some retail therapy will help.

Well, this is interesting.

-Mind if I went and had a look?

-No, go and look.

Bongiorno.

Bongiorno.

-See that bag?

-Oh, right. Ask to have a look at it.

-Signora.

E possibile vedere?

Grazie mille.

Oh, grazie.

-Yeah, I like that. This is ostrich, isn't it?

-Hmm, yeah.

-Yeah, get it.

Grazie, signora.

So we're drawing to the end of our property search here in Puglia,

but I am getting the impression that Malcolm isn't TRULLI

sold on moving to Italy.

But we are not giving up yet

because we still have the mystery house up our sleeve,

and I'm hoping that this property is the one that convinces them both.

The search for our final home takes us closest to the water's edge,

around five miles from the coastal town of Monopoli.

The historic centre of Monopoli has the feel of a cosmopolitan city

and is a lively and energetic place throughout the year.

In amongst its fascinating architecture is a baroque

cathedral as well as all the shops, bars and restaurants you could want.

But hidden away high in the hills and looking out towards the sea

over acres of olive trees is the property we've saved until last.

So, our final offering, of course, it is the mystery house.

Any ideas why?

-Well, it is a mystery because it is not a trulli.

-Ta-da!

-Malcolm, you got it in one. It is actually an old farmhouse.

-Oh, wow.

-Wow.

-It dates back to around 1817.

But you will be pleased to know it has been renovated in the '90s.

-It looks all right, doesn't it?

-Yeah, excellent.

-Shall we?

-Yes, please.

-For the final time?

-Yes.

-Come on.

This converted farmhouse may look very different to our first

three trulli properties, but at 200 years old, it is

still full of features and charm.

And we're starting off our tour in the kitchen.

-Bijou.

-Yes.

-Yeah, it is.

-Not huge. Probably a standard size.

-For an Italian kitchen, yeah.

-I just want to point this out for you.

-You have got like a larder here.

-Oh, I see.

-But also steps leading up to the roof terrace.

-Oh, right.

-A secret entrance.

-Oh, intriguing.

-Yeah.

So you can prepare the food and then straight upstairs to enjoy

the sunset with a little cheeky glass of something in the evenings.

No, we don't do things like that(!)

That has made us all smile, so we'll continue.

Here is your sitting room.

Now that's more like it. I like this.

-Do you?

-Mm-hm.

-Is this more you, do you think, Malcolm?

-I think so.

-Yeah.

-Yeah.

-Oh, he hasn't done that before.

-No, he hasn't.

-Gosh, no.

No, we haven't had a stroking wall moment.

We haven't had a stroking wall.

-That's a good sign, Julie.

-It is. He has made contact.

-Yeah.

-He is connecting.

-No, I love it. I really do.

-Excellent.

It has got a nice feel as soon as you walk in, actually.

Well, I hope this continues as we go through.

I'm pleased to say that this spacious home has definitely

awoken something in Malcolm.

The stone floor is a feature throughout the house,

where everything is on ground level.

The accommodation also includes a study area,

a large, fully-tiled family bathroom and three bedrooms,

including a bright twin, a good-sized double

and the one that could be for Julie and Malcolm.

-This is the master. Complete with dressing room next door.

-Oh, wow.

-And en-suite.

-Oh, fantastic.

-So, Julie's all right. What about you, Malcolm?

-I like this.

And then in the winter, you have got a little fireplace.

-It actually works?

-Yes.

-This is amazing. A complete shock.

-Excellent.

-Exciting.

You've done well.

-Shall we head outside?

-OK.

There is around half an acre of grounds that come with our mystery

house, and the best way to see them in all their glory is from above.

So we have come up to the roof terrace with some serious views.

So we have to finish the tour up here, don't we?

Now, look at this as a roof terrace.

And just take a look.

-Julie, Malcolm, over there.

-The sea.

-Oh, my goodness!

-Look at that.

-That is amazing.

-Look at that.

-That is beautiful. Beautiful.

You have got your own olive grove.

And if that wasn't enough, a large pool, plus, separate from this

building, you can just see the roof, is a storage room.

It's rather large. Malcolm, I'm thinking art workshop?

Workshop for art...

So, I wonder what is going through your mind,

because I have got to ask you,

what is the asking price on this property?

-It has got to be...

-I think it is 350.

-At least 350.

-I am with you on that.

-Yeah.

Well, you are out by £4,000.

-The asking price is £346,000.

-Right.

-I thought it would be.

-I thought it would be, yeah. I did.

-However...

We couldn't do that to you, could we?

We have spoken to the owners and they are aware of your top budget.

They will accept...

£278,000.

-Oh, my God!

-Really?

-A smidge under the top of your budget.

JULIE LAUGHS

-Don't get too excited.

-Why not?

-So have another look.

-We will, yeah.

-Wander around.

-Another talk.

-Have a talk. Be my guest. And I will see you a bit later.

-OK. Thanks.

This former farmhouse may be on the market at £66,000 over Julie

and Malcolm's budget, but the owner is willing to accept

£2,000 under it.

The house has three bedrooms as well as an outhouse

that could be a studio for Malcolm.

There's also a half-acre garden that features a swimming pool,

and not forgetting an enormous roof terrace with panoramic

views to the coast.

Although we had sort of fallen in love with the trullis,

or I had fallen in love with the trullis, this really

just had the wow factor.

The land, the house, the whole layout. Just amazing, really.

Bit by bit, I felt myself growing into it.

Every room I felt I could live in.

My head is now spinning.

I wasn't expecting anything like this.

Well, you know, from what we have seen,

I was expecting another trulli. HE SNIGGERS

Now, am looking forward to seeing your faces.

Cos hopefully I am going to try to read you.

-A successful second viewing on your own this time?

-Yes.

-It's beautiful.

-Yes.

-Cos that's it.

-I know.

-The final house.

So let's go somewhere. You two need a bit of time together,

collect your thoughts,

and then we're going to find out what your next move is going to be.

-Is it going to be out here? That is the question.

-That is the question.

-Come on, we're going to hit the road.

-Lovely.

In Cilento, to the south of Puglia, sits the city of Lecce,

famed for its stunning baroque limestone architecture.

I have come to meet Cinzia Rascazzo here at the Palazzo dei Celestini.

Cinzia is a certified olive oil taster

and has kindly agreed to give me a whistle-stop tour to demonstrate

why olives are the centuries-old jewel in Puglia's crown.

When you turn around and admire these buildings, the one

thing it speaks to me of is wealth, serious wealth over the centuries.

-Is that right?

-Yes.

You are totally right.

During the 1600s, the 1700s,

until 1800s, here it was a super wealthy area.

But where did it come from?

-All this money was coming from olive oil.

-Olive oil?

-Yes.

But at that time, olive oil was not used for food,

so we were making lamp olive oil.

-So it was fuel.

-Yes.

Before petroleum was discovered, olive oil was the way

we were lighting the streets all over Europe.

So both the Church people

and the noble people were making all this money thanks to the olive oil.

From the end of the 16th century,

Puglian olive oil was made in limestone caves using stone presses.

Many have been preserved, including this one in Vernole.

These old stone steps are leading us around four metres below ground,

where the ancient presses are still intact.

To produce olive for fuel, un-ripened olives were used,

which were left to ferment before they were pressed,

a process that took around six months and gave the oil

a high acidity level, which was perfect for burning.

So how many people would be working here underground at one time?

So there were about eight to nine workers and two donkeys.

But there were people here living for six months.

They were not allowed to leave because olives were like gold,

so the owner of this place was afraid

that they would steal the olives.

It must have had a few huge effect on the region, on its wealth,

when suddenly, in the, what, 18th,

19th century a different fuel source is discovered.

Now olive oil is used as a food condiment.

We are still a big producer of olive oil.

Puglia produces a hefty 40% of Italy's olive oil,

around 200,000 tonnes a year.

We have come to an olive grove in the Vernole countryside to see

where the region's liquid gold stems from.

Now, this is a remarkable olive tree.

-I don't think I've ever seen one quite so wide.

-Yes.

This is 2,075 years old.

-And it is still producing olives?

-It is.

It is still producing olives.

Why is the oil here so special?

First, look at how much space there is between trees,

so the roots, they grow horizontally and they can get enough nutrients.

Then just look at the age of our trees.

So they have had centuries to get adjusted to our climate.

Aren't olive trees indigenous to Italy?

Because you do see them everywhere.

Actually, olive tree was brought here by the Greeks.

When the Greeks arrived, more than 2,000 years ago, they brought

the olive tree and we still have some of the trees they brought.

The same trees may have been around for millennia,

but the process of extracting the olive oil from them has

changed dramatically over the years.

Today, of course, the olives are pressed by machinery.

And Cinzia has brought me to a factory

so I can experience this local delicacy myself.

We are having it with frizelle,

a special kind of bread that the underground workers

would have eaten with their olive oil all those years ago.

So, the difference between this bread and regular bread

is that this has been baked twice, so this is very dry

and it lasts for a year.

-But how does it taste?

-Fantastic. Let's prepare it first.

-OK.

The bread is dipped in water and topped with tomatoes

and wild oregano.

And then the secret - extra virgin olive oil.

So this is very peppery.

Very intense.

Here we go.

That is good. And can I just say?

I know I shouldn't speak with my mouth full, but you'd

never think that bread was a year old with that olive oil on it.

Buonissimo, Nicki.

-Buonissimo.

-CINZIA GIGGLES

-Thank you so much.

-You're very welcome.

I've just sampled a real taste of Puglia.

And it is incredible that what was once considered fuel is now

a staple in kitchens throughout the world.

Back in Cisternino, whilst our buyers Malcolm

and Julie are getting ready to leave,

they are also reflecting on their very first experience in Puglia.

-We need to check all the cupboards. Just get your stuff out.

-Oh, right.

Hang on.

I just can't believe we are off again now and back home.

-We have got so much to think about now.

-I know.

I don't know about you, but I am a bit confused.

When we first came here, I loved those old trullis, but...

I know you did.

-I must admit...

-To live in, it just wouldn't work. Not for us, anyway.

It has made me think twice.

-I think we're about done now, my darling.

-OK.

See if you can get it zipped up.

OK, pull it round.

Having shown Malcolm and Julie our properties here in Puglia,

I'm not sure just how committed they are to living abroad.

Perhaps I'm wrong, perhaps they will surprise me. Let's ask them.

Find out.

So, Julie and Malcolm, at the beginning of the week,

it was your first time in Puglia, everything was new,

everything was fresh, everything was very exciting,

but I wonder how we have got on when it comes to finding you a new home.

-I still prefer Tuscany.

-Do you?

-Yep.

It wasn't what I was expecting. The olive trees.

I mean, there are millions of them, you know.

It does take to you, they are lovely, but there is a lot of them.

-Reputedly, 63 million.

-Yeah.

-That's a lot of trees.

-That doesn't surprise me.

Let me ask you a question,

was Tuscany a holiday or was it a proper house search?

It was a holiday.

I just think this whole sort of venture really has

opened my eyes up to a lot of things.

It has made me even question about what we are actually doing,

is it what we really want?

-Has the region won you over?

-To some degree.

I'd have to come back and feel it again

and have a longer time to experience it

rather than coming out for the typical, you know, 14-day holiday.

And perhaps come back and actually rent somewhere long-term

in different areas again

but actually sort of almost like pretend we're living here

and try it out for real.

And bring the dogs with us so that we can really, really try it out.

-Yeah.

-Before we make that final setting down our roots.

That's probably what we're frightened of.

That was our original plan.

-That was.

-That was the one thing I was going to say, cos I don't

think in your head you've decided 100% that you want to live abroad.

And once you get that, then hopefully,

-the rest will fall into place.

-We know we want to move.

We know who want to change.

I think it is because we haven't done it for so long now.

I mean, we've lived in our current house now for over 20 years,

which we adore.

But there is something in us that is giving us itchy feet.

And it's how that translates now, I just don't know.

Well, let us know how you get on.

I wonder, in 12 months' time, whether you're going to be

living in the coast, say near Bournemouth,

or whether you are going to be in Europe.

Sorry it hasn't quite hit the right notes.

-Trulli, it...

-Ooooh!

You had to get that in. Trulli obsessed.

Well I am TRULLI obsessed with the two of you. Thank you very much.

-Thank you.

-And you, Nicki, thank you.

Well, an interesting end to our time in Puglia, which, sadly,

as a region, isn't for Malcolm,

although I still think Julie has fallen in love not only

with his beautiful countryside but those famous trulli properties.

However, having said that, when I pushed our couple about their

commitment living abroad, they are not 100% committed.

Time will tell whether they remain in the UK, or will another

Italian region be enough to entice them to escape to the Continent?

We're just going to have to wait and see.

Bye for now.