Episode 3 Getaways

Hello and welcome to Getaways.

This is the travel show where we go where you want us to go.

On our website, we asked you for your top tips

on what to do here and what to avoid.

We've taken your recommendations and are going to rate and review them

for ourselves and for you at home.

This week we're visiting Boston and Cape Cod.

We're combining an American city break with a trip to the coast.

Based on your suggestions,

we visit a museum dedicated to an iconic American...

head to Boston's weekend resort, Cape Cod...

and I'm taking a short getaway in the Glens of Antrim.

Flights to Boston take around seven hours

and the time difference is five hours, so expect a bit of jet lag.

If you're flying to the States from Dublin Airport,

then on most flights you can pre-clear

US customs and immigration.

This is a huge plus, because since 9/11

the Americans really have ramped up security

and it can take ages on the other end.

Boston is on the eastern seaboard of the USA,

just under 200 miles north of New York.

It's the capital of Massachusetts and the gateway to New England.

It's a small city, about the size of Dublin,

and has a very European feel to it.

-Joe, you've been to Boston before.

-Indeed.

What are you hoping to find out on this trip?

Boston is often described, I think harshly,

as a decaffeinated New York.

But there's still a lot of fun to be had here.

-I want to kind of see what's changed since last time I was here. You've been here as well?

I was here seven years ago with the girls. But I didn't go to any museums on that trip.

So that's what I want to do this time, have a look at the museums

and see how good they are. Plus two of the top 10 universities in the world are here in this city

and I want to see, does that college vibe permeate throughout the place?

-Does it make it a good spot for a city break?

-Yeah.

So what's the best way to get your bearings?

Many of you, including Natalie McDermott from Roscommon,

suggested we hop on a duck tour,

an amphibious vehicle that dips into the water from time to time.

Although it might seem very touristy, it's a big thing to do

in Boston and a fun way to check out the city.

And another way to see the city is from the air.

Adrian Finnegan from Belfast suggested the Skywalk,

52 storeys high at the top of this monster, the Prudential Building.

The day I went, it was foggy,

but you could still see that Boston is surrounded by water.

And unlike many American cities,

it's not laid out in the grid style.

At the top of the building,

there's also a small exhibition about the city's roots.

There's a huge focus on immigration up here,

and for about 100 years, the Irish made up the majority of the immigrant population.

They've depicted stories from all over the world,

and here they've shown us some of the items people brought with them

on their journey into the New World.

A large number of you, including Lorraine O'Flynn from Kildare,

said that if you go to Boston you really have to do a historical tour.

In most cities, the historical tour would involve putting on headphones

and being guided by a slightly robotic voice.

Here in Boston, however, you can get this fine gentleman as a guide.

-James Blake, everyone. Everyone, James Blake.

-Hello.

James Blake, a smither of tin and a smither of stories for you.

Here, the Freedom Trail, you find it on a map.

-It' marked by a red line.

-I love it. So instead of the yellow brick,

-we're going on the red.

-Oh, yes.

We can skip if you like as well, arm in arm.

All right, then, come on.

-All right, here we go.

-Oh, Joe!

We started our Freedom Trail in Boston Common,

50 acres of green right in the heart of the city.

So you're getting a total picture of the history of Boston doing the trail?

Yes, yes.

The whole colonial history from when the Puritans first landed here

to when we threw off the tyranny of the British Empire,

declared our independence.

-This is the New State House, our 215-year-old New State House.

-OK.

-This was designed by the same gentleman who designed the White House.

-Ah.

The tour also stops off at the Old State House,

built at the site of a massacre in 1770.

The trail isn't all about the American Revolution.

It also takes you past the Irish Famine Memorial.

The sculpture depicts a family prospering in the New World

in comparison to the despair they had in Ireland.

It does have its critics,

with a lot of people saying that it's too simplistic.

But in a city where 20% of the population claim Irish ancestry,

it's a good and poignant reminder of Boston's history.

The trail takes you past dozens of key historical landmarks.

And you might find one of my favourites rather surprising.

I find graveyards pretty interesting places to visit,

because you're trying to put together the stories.

You see families there together and all of that.

This one, however, is particularly unique.

You forget that you're in the middle of a city.

These are some of the oldest tombstones I've ever seen.

They're going back to the middle of the 17th century.

There are so many children here.

There are people who are 89 years old. Back in the 17th century, that was some feet.

And then you have characters from the Civil War,

people like Sam Adams and Franklin's parents.

So it's a pretty great spot to visit in Boston.

The Freedom Trail, for us anyway, ends at Faneuil Hall,

also known as Quincy Market.

-And even JFK spoke here?

-Yes.

The last leg of his presidential campaign was here, right down here.

Any heads of state we have, we entertain them right down here.

This is the heart of politics.

This is the heart of politics to this day.

Quincy Market is also a popular shopping destination.

The other place for great shopping in Boston is Newbury Street,

where you'll find lots of cool boutiques.

Now there's an assumption that city breaks are really just something

that adults do, and there's not a lot for kids to do.

But there's quite a few things for the nippers in Boston,

including this, the Boston Children's Museum.

It's not really so much a museum,

more of an educational interactive centre,

a bit like the W5 in Belfast.

I love this.

You can take the stairs, or the elevator,

up to the different floors,

where you can go up through this like a little maze,

platform to platform to platform.

But it's just for kids. I did ask.

Apparently I'm too big.

While Joe was sizing up one museum,

I was trying out an alternative.

In the past few years, science museums all around the world

have become far more creative and interactive.

Boston's Museum of Science is no exception.

Loads of you, including Brian Graney from Green Island,

recommended that we come here.

Apparently, this is the city's most popular cultural attraction.

They try to cover just about every branch of science here.

There's the physics of lightning,

some zoology with a butterfly house on the roof,

a special mathematics section

and a tribute to the moon landings.

This is a to-scale model of the Apollo command capsule.

This is the only part of the craft to return to Earth.

I'm feeling claustrophobic and I've only been in here for about 10 minutes.

But there would've been three astronauts in here for a couple of days.

But I suppose the view would've made up for that.

There are around 700 exhibits here,

and it's such a fun way to explore science.

I've even learned a few things myself.

I think this is a great way to spend a day in Boston,

especially if you're bringing the kids.

Hey! Cool.

Back at the Children's Museum,

I've been finding out that the place has just celebrated

its 100th birthday, and that there are plenty of opportunities to get wet.

A great number of you all contacted our website

all suggesting the same must-see.

Niamh McMahon from Fermoy was one of them,

and she said, when you come to Boston, you must go and visit

one of its most beloved residents,

the USS Constitution,

affectionately known as Old Ironsides.

Now, you may be asking, why is she called Old Ironsides

when she is clearly made of wood? Let me explain.

I shall take you back to 1812,

to the shortest recorded battle in naval history.

The USS Constitution got into a bit of a tussle with the HMS Guerriere.

It was bombarded at the sides by the Guerriere's cannon.

When they examined it afterwards,

they discovered that either the cannonballs

had embedded in its side or merely bounced off and into the water.

Someone exclaimed, "Our sides are made of iron!"

As you can see, back then,

sailors were either a lot smaller or unconscious a lot.

You find me in the captain's quarters. No hammock for him.

A rather swish-looking bed, and look, a sun room.

Well, so you would think. Check this out.

It's the khazi.

A poo with a view.

If you did decide on a career in the Navy,

the captain is pretty much the man you'd want to be.

You get your own bedroom, your rec room,

and you had your own private chef who cooked exclusively for you.

In fact, only two chefs on board.

The captain's chef and the other one,

who cooked for the 400-500 other men on board.

Boston is probably one of the brainiest cities in the US,

as it's home to some of the world's best-known universities,

including Harvard and MIT.

I met up with Irish PhD student Jennifer to find out

more about studying and living in the city.

Are there loads of people coming over to visit you since you've been studying?

Definitely, everyone wants to come in the summer.

They don't want to come in the winter to see the snow.

Where do you bring them?

I'd make sure we go to some of the museums.

There's some nice art museums.

There is also really great music,

like, kind of a really great symphony orchestra.

Then we'd probably get a car, go along Cape Cod, along the beaches,

make sure we go see a baseball game if we can, see the Red Sox.

You have to go on the duck tours around the city, things like that.

Then I give them the tour of Harvard, as well.

There seems to be a real community feel to the city.

Yeah, it's a small city. You can walk anywhere.

There's residential places right in the middle,

so you can actually live right at the heart of the city.

There's a lot of parkland and everything. I was just walking round there today.

Harvard prides itself on the fact that it favours local,

privately-run shops rather than the big chain stores.

And this one caught my attention.

Now, you may never have heard of Curious George,

but, over here, the 72-year-old monkey is an institution.

We are in the Curious George shop.

Not only the only Curious George shop in Boston

but also the world, and this is the manager. Adam, how are you doing?

Very good. Thanks for coming on over.

Curious George has been around for, like, 72 years. It's a TV series.

It's been a film, with Jack Johnson doing the soundtrack

and everything, a bestselling album. So why is there only one store?

That's a great question.

And it starts with the people who created Curious George, the Reys.

They lived the last 25 years of their lives, respectively,

-here in Harvard Square.

-Oh, OK.

And that's why the store is here.

And is there a real kind of Bostonian pride about George

because the creators lived here?

Yeah, I think so. The Reys really cared deeply about their community.

We view ourselves, my wife and myself,

as caretakers of the Curious George brand.

What we're hoping to do is do right by George.

Yeah! If you want in on the ground floor on my idea, Spurious George,

which is a monkey that just runs around making ill-founded,

controversial claims.

If you want in on the ground floor of that, we can...

I think that's great. We should talk more about that.

Yes, and there's like, Furious George, just a really angry monkey.

That's in the shop next door!

Ha-ha! With really rude staff!

Yes!

Over on our side of the Atlantic,

we tend to sell most of our best seafood to the rest of Europe.

Here, though, they keep the biggest

and the ugliest for domestic consumption.

Oh, my God.

-Lord!

-I'm never going to get through that.

I've seen you take down some serious contenders,

but I think this one's going to have you beat.

I don't think I'll manage all this.

The eastern seaboard of the United States is a massive producer of shellfish and crustaceans.

So, you can't go very far in this town

without coming across a seafood restaurant.

Down in one, down in one!

Be prepared to SHELL out for the best. Get it?

A whole lobster is likely to set you back 40.

It is high-maintenance food, it is delicious.

-But it's definitely not first-date food.

-No.

If a long-haul flight seems a little bit too much,

why not try a short break a bit closer to home?

This week, I'm visiting the east coast of Northern Ireland

and the Glens of Antrim.

The Glens of Antrim are nine glens cutting through the landscape to

the sea, and the area is a real dramatic mix

of cliffs, moorland and beaches.

On a clear day, you can see the Scottish islands

and the Mull of Kintyre.

The glens are located between Larne and Ballycastle,

along a 40-mile stretch of the Antrim Coast Road.

One of the best known glens is Glenariff, or Queen of the Glens,

and the view here is supposed to have inspired

Victorian novelist William Makepeace Thackeray to describe it as a miniature Switzerland.

Now, I don't think he'd ever actually been to Switzerland.

Glenariff Forest Park is popular with walkers and cyclists,

and best known for its spectacular waterfalls.

This is Ess-an-Crub Waterfall, or the Horseshoe Waterfall.

The Glens of Antrim have inspired many myths and legends and,

when you come to a place like this, it's easy to understand why.

The next stop on my tour of the glens brings me to the village of Cushendun.

Cushendun means "edge of the Dun", which is this river here,

and it's long been a landing place and ferry point

between Scotland, behind me in the distance, and Ireland.

This picture-postcard village is unique

and protected by the National Trust.

These cottages in particular were designed by Clough Williams-Ellis,

the architect responsible for Portmeirion in Wales.

The houses were commissioned by Lord Cushendun, who wanted

to make his Cornish wife, Maud, feel at home in their Antrim estate.

Cushendun has inspired many poets and painters over the years and,

more recently, film-makers.

This coastline was used as a location in Game of Thrones.

I'm staying down the road at Ballygally Castle,

25 miles from Belfast and situated right on the coast road.

The hotel is built around a 17th-century baronial castle.

Now, if you're into history, you're going to love this place.

It was built by Scottish planters in 1625,

and it's seen its fair share of conflict and drama,

but it's actually its reputation

as one of Ireland's most haunted places that really intrigues people.

Now, I'm a scientist.

I'm not really into all that, but I hope I get a good night's sleep.

Fortunately, not all the rooms are haunted,

and a double room will cost around £130.

The Glens of Antrim have plenty to see, but there's also plenty to do.

A favourite place for families is the Carnfunnock Country Park.

There's a unique maze here in the shape of Northern Ireland.

And a walled garden with exotic plants and wooden sculptures.

There's also a children's activity centre

with an outdoor adventure playground,

putting green and a mini-Silverstone racetrack.

What's been your favourite thing that you were doing here?

Er, that go-kart.

The go-karting, that was good?

How many marks would you give it out of ten for an activity centre?

-100.

-Ha-ha!

100 marks out of ten?

Very good.

My final stop-off is the village of Glenarm,

and the historic Glenarm Castle.

For 400 years, the castle has been the home of the Earls of Antrim.

It's still occupied by the Viscount and Viscountess Dunluce.

Afternoon tea has had a renaissance in recent years,

and I've been recommended to try it out here.

Well, this is lovely.

What the Glenarm Estate is actually renowned for is its walled gardens.

Jackie Wilson is a local whose father was head gardener here for 50 years.

So, you must have grown up in these gardens.

I was born in the house behind you.

In 1934.

But it was a lovely upbringing, you know,

and fruit and veg, you name it, it was grown here.

This is one of the oldest walled gardens in Ireland.

You know, it would be over 200 years.

And remember, the village is 800 years old.

It is one of the oldest villages in Ulster.

So there's a big connection between this part of Antrim

and Scotland, then.

Oh, of course, aye, because most of the commerce in the 1800s,

earlier than that, would have been carried on,

because it's easier to move stuff by sea,

as up and down these glens with a horse and cart.

And it wasn't until what, 1832, 1842, that Mr Bald, a Scotsman,

designed and built the Antrim Coast Road. It took ten years to do.

And that opened up the nine glens, which are famous.

Yes, they are, they are famous!

Glenarm Castle itself is only open to the public for a few days a year,

so check out its website if you want to see inside.

The castle's Barbican Gatelodge has recently been restored

by the Irish Landmark Trust, and it costs from £180 for a two-night stay.

This week, we're in the States,

and we're visiting the East Coast city of Boston.

Based on your recommendations, so far we've explored

the Freedom Trail,

taken a glimpse at the space race

and seen a loo with a view.

Lots of you on our website raved about the fact that there was

so many parks in the centre of Boston.

Daniel Smith especially recommended the Boston Public Gardens.

He said, "It's pretty spectacular in the evenings

"and has a really pretty lagoon and bridge."

This was the first public botanical garden in America.

It was established in 1837,

and when it was originally planted,

it was criticised for being too showy and exotic.

Well, we're not complaining now!

And just across the road from the public gardens

is another of your favourites.

Now, a phenomenal amount of you recommended that we come here.

I'm looking at you, particularly, Siobhan Cassidy of Donegal.

This, of course, was the inspiration

for the iconic American comedy series.

Now, if you come here and go inside,

you will not find Woody,

you will not find Sam,

you will not find Diane, Cliffy, or Norm.

And absolutely nobody will know your name.

And from one Boston institution to another.

Welcome aboard!

Welcome aboard the Eleanor!

The Harbor area is vital to Boston's history, and any tourist

coming here won't want to miss the Boston Tea Party Ships and Museum.

Lots of you, including Janice Cawley,

recommended this as a really fun way to find out about Boston's past.

So, Dave, tell me what this museum's all about.

This museum is not a traditional museum.

This is an interactive adventure.

You get to be part of the town meeting where Sam Adams

-exhorts you to go and destroy the tea.

-Hurrah!

Come aboard a ship

and get to explore the ship and destroy the tea.

-Are we all still willing to take this risk? If you are, say aye!

-Aye!

Huzzah!

We try to make it a story

and an adventure that everybody can become immersed in.

This is the very spot where, in 1773,

angry patriots disguised as Mohawk Indians threw three shiploads

of tea into the harbour in protest at King George's heavy taxation.

This dumping of tea became known as the Boston Tea Party.

It was one of the founding moments in American history

and was one of the events that led up to the American War of Independence.

And it all started right here.

And the one place I really, really wanted to investigate

while in Boston, is a few miles south of the city.

I would strongly advise that you make the journey,

because it is fascinating.

They're sometimes referred to as America's royal family and,

over the last century, they've certainly provided enough power,

politics, riches, scandal, glamour and style to rival any dynasty.

Or to fill any museum.

John Fitzgerald Kennedy was the offspring of two families

who migrated to America because of the Irish famine.

The Fitzgerald family from County Limerick

and the Kennedys from County Wexford.

It only took a few generations for the Kennedy family to create

enough money and political clout to make a bid for the White House.

In 1960, JFK beat Richard Nixon in a closely-fought contest.

At 43 years old, this Harvard graduate, war hero and Democrat

became the youngest-ever president of the United States of America.

The centrepiece of the museum

is this beautiful recreation of the White House corridor.

And off it are plenty of exhibits from JFK's time in the presidency.

From the space race to the Cuban missile crisis

and Jackie Kennedy's own oral histories.

This part of the United States may sometimes seem obsessed with

the Kennedys, but this magnificent building,

which also houses the Kennedy archive,

is a fitting tribute to its most famous son.

The museum prefers to focus on the life and legacy

of President John F Kennedy, and not on his assassination.

That's depicted simply by this long,

dark corridor showing the news reports of the time.

As you leave the exhibition space,

you step into a vast, empty cathedral of glass and steel

with a huge American flag at its centre.

It allows you a space to contemplate and reflect.

A great number of you said that, if we're going to visit Boston,

we have to take the time to visit Cape Cod.

Sarah Ni Ghallachoir said it was absolutely breathtakingly beautiful.

Cape Cod is around 60 miles south-east of Boston

and there are lots of beaches and activities.

It's where all the Bostonians take time out from the city.

But you'll also find a lot of New Yorkers leave the Big Apple

to chill out here, too.

This is an America you'll all be very familiar with from the movies.

Immaculate houses, cute little picket fences.

It almost feels like a film set.

They're very protective of the look and feel of this area.

For example, local businesses are not allowed to have

any neon signs or anything considered too gaudy.

And if you're building a property here, there are building regulations

that stipulate that the outside must have this wooden shingling.

It gives that chocolate-boxy effect.

OK, Joe. One of us gets to go on a cycling trip

-and the other gets to go on a jeep ride across the sand dunes.

-Indeed.

-How do we decide?

Well, I've looked at this, I've looked at the pros and cons.

-I think we should do it in a scientific way.

-Mm-hm!

-I'll flip you a coin for it. Winner picks. Call.

-Heads.

-Oh!

Lovely, I'm going to go cycling, then.

All right, I'll go across the dunes in a buggy. Brilliant.

There are dozens of miles of unspoiled beaches here on the Cape.

Cars aren't allowed on the dunes.

The exception being if you go with a recognised jeep safari company.

Woo-hoo-hoo!

Oh, yes! That's it! Ha-ha!

JOE LAUGHS

See, it's like you get real job that's so much fun.

-Yeah, I was just thinking, this is one of the coolest jobs ever.

-Yeah.

JOE LAUGHS

My guide was Barbara, who advised that it maybe wasn't a great idea

to go immediately after lunch.

What is that house up there?

-Are there are many of those round here?

-They're called dune shacks.

They started being built in the 1920s and '30s by squatters.

And most of those people were artists and writers.

Eugene O'Neill, Jack Kerouac, Jackson Pollock was here,

Homer Winslow.

There were a lot of famous people that passed through.

Wow. That's quite an impressive alumni.

There's a great cycling tradition here,

with dozens of places where you can pick up a bike for a few hours.

It's great, flat terrain.

The countryside's absolutely beautiful

and there's miles and miles of trail to enjoy.

This trail used to be a railroad

but they've converted it into 40km of cycle track that goes right through the heart of Cape Cod.

You can drive from Boston to Cape Cod,

or there's a high-speed ferry which takes about 90 minutes.

But here's a word of warning about the Cape.

We visited Provincetown in May when it was quiet and calm.

But we were advised that, in the height of summer,

it can get very crowded.

There are a huge range of places to stay in Boston and Cape Cod.

And here are some of our choices.

The Loews Boston Back Bay Hotel is a converted police headquarters,

and has decent-sized rooms, which are hard to find sometimes in Boston.

Four nights will cost from £779 per person.

That's based on two people sharing

and this price includes flights and airport transfers.

There are cheaper options, though.

The Boston Midtown Hotel,

in the shadow of the giant Prudential Building in the Back Bay

is not going to find itself in any of the glossy magazines for its design features.

But it's in a great central location and the rooms are a good size.

Four nights will cost from £605 per person, based on two sharing.

In Cape Cod, they're forbidden to build high,

so the bigger hotels tend to sprawl out across huge sites.

This means that The Cape Codder, where we stayed,

has multiple pools, both inside and out.

Five nights will cost from £665 per person, based on two adults

and two children sharing.

This price also includes five days' car hire with insurance.

We booked our holiday package, including hotels and flights,

with American Holidays and Aer Lingus.

There are 14 flights a week from Dublin to Boston.

If you'd like any more information about our holidays,

please visit our website.

So, what do you make of Boston as a city break destination?

I love it. It's so pretty. There's a real community feel, and the museums were brilliant.

You'd expect that from a university town,

but the Science Museum, I just loved it.

Absolutely. It's a great city, whether you're here as a couple

or whether you're here as a family, it both works.

And, if you have the time, get yourself out to Cape Cod, particularly Provincetown.

We loved it. See you next time on Getaways.