Episode 6 Getaways

Hello and welcome to Getaways,

the show where we go where you want us to go.

This week we come to Montenegro,

Europe's newest and one of its smallest countries.

On our website, we asked you for your recommendations.

What to do here and what to avoid.

We've taken a look at your recommendations

and we're going to rate and review them for ourselves and for you at home.

Coming up, we visit the beaches and towns along the Budva Riviera,

head inland to the mountains to visit one of Montenegro's spectacular parks

and I take a short getaway closer to home, around Strangford Lough in County Down.

To get to Montenegro you can fly from Belfast or Dublin

to Dubrovnik in Croatia.

You then drive across the border into Montenegro.

We then headed to the coastal resort of Budva.

Montenegro was part of the former Yugoslavia

but declared independence from Serbia in 2006.

Just south of Croatia, it's also bordered by Bosnia,

Albania and Serbia.

It's about the same size as Northern Ireland, but that's where the similarities end.

It has a Mediterranean climate, and in July and August you can get temperatures around 30 degrees.

Think more Italy, Spain, not so much Antrim or Down.

Once the summer playground of the former Eastern bloc,

Montenegro is fast becoming a new holiday destination for Irish and UK holiday-makers.

So, Aoibhinn, what do you know about Montenegro?

I know very little about this country but a few of my friends

have been here on holiday and they really enjoyed it.

Most people's frame of reference is the film Casino Royale.

People think it was filmed here, it was actually just set here.

They shot it in the Czech Republic.

So we know less about Montenegro than we thought we did.

Yes, yes.

Our first port of call is the Budva Riviera,

the most visited part of Montenegro.

It's a 35km-stretch of beaches

and sheltered bays on Montenegro's Adriatic coast.

In the '60s and '70s, this part of Montenegro

was one of the most glamorous destinations on the Adriatic

and attracted a glitzy posse of European royalty, celebrities

and Hollywood film stars.

Budva is the place that gives the Riviera its name,

and it's the poster child of Montenegro tourism.

With its mix of luxury hotels, restaurants and bars

and an old town that can trace its history back 2,000 years.

There are around 17 beaches along this coastline.

Many of them are pebble and shingle

but you will find sandy stretches too.

Mogren Beach is one of the main beaches.

Mogren Beach is actually two beaches connected by a tunnel beneath the cliffs.

It's lovely and pretty and there's a great view of the mountains,

but it's incredibly packed.

But for me, the little city beach underneath the walls of the old town is my absolute favourite.

We were here in the height of summer

and as you can see it gets pretty hectic.

There's one way to make sure you get the sunbed you want,

but you might have to pay the price.

The western end of the beach is reserved for hotel guests only,

but if the 7,000 euro a night for the presidential suite

of the Hotel Splendid is beyond your budget, don't fret.

The east end of the beach has the same sun, the same sand

and the same water, and you can get two sunbeds and an umbrella

for five euros a day. Bargain.

It is a really nice beach. In fact, it won the Grand Palm award

for most beautiful beach in Europe. Then again, that was back in 1935.

If you are coming to Montenegro, you will undoubtedly hear it

described as "undiscovered."

Believe me, it has been very much discovered, mainly by Russians.

But it is possible to get away from the crowds on Budva's beaches.

Known as the Stari Grad, Budva's walled town

is one of the oldest settlements on the Adriatic.

You told us that Budva Old Town was a must-see,

and it's only five minutes from the beach,

so you have absolutely no excuse to get off your sun lounger

and come wandering in the maze of streets and squares.

Budva is mentioned in the history books

as far back as the 4th century BC.

It's been governed over time by many different powers,

including the Greeks, Romans, Turks, Bosnians, Serbians,

the Venetian Republic and the Austro-Hungarian Empire,

to name but a few!

Budva was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1979,

but it's impossible to tell, because it was painstakingly rebuilt

stone by stone in the 1980s.

In Budva Old Town, you'll find beautiful churches to visit,

as well as streets filled with quaint little shops,

where you can find souvenirs and knick-knacks.

There are also plenty of good places to grab a bite, ranging from cheap

and cheerful cafes to more upmarket options.

The old town is a fabulous place to spend the afternoon.

It's got a really laid-back, casual atmosphere to it,

and it's very authentic, especially when you contrast it with the modern resort part of town.

As Budva is the tourism capital of Montenegro,

it is, of course, a busy resort,

but there are quiet corners where you can just relax and chill out.

20 minutes down the coast,

you'll find another spot that, if you can afford it,

will let you escape the maddening crowd.

This is Sveti Stefan, one of Montenegro's best-known islands

and if you pick up a holiday brochure for Montenegro,

it's what you'll always see.

It's a landmark that epitomises Montenegro's burgeoning tourist industry.

The island was turned into a luxury resort in the 1950s,

and in its heyday in the '60s and '70s it was the place

in Montenegro for the rich and famous to see and be seen.

Sveti Stefan was recently reopened

and once again it's become a Mecca for A-listers.

Built in 1442 as a fortified fishing village,

it's one of the most iconic images of Montenegro.

The whole island is now an upmarket private resort.

If you've got the big bucks you can rent the whole thing as a group.

There are different types of accommodation,

including village rooms, cottages and suites.

We're not allowed to film on the island because it's for residents only,

but you can stay there as a holiday-maker if you so wish,

and you have 900 euros a night to spare.

There's a beach on either side of the causeway to the island.

The north beach is for residents only,

but the south beach is open to the public and is one of the most beautiful in the region.

Another place that's attracting well-heeled tourists

is Porto Montenegro.

About half an hour's drive north of Budva, Porto Montenegro

is an upmarket resort, which is being developed around a smart new marina.

Designed to rival Monte Carlo and Cannes,

Porto Montenegro opened in 2009

and attracts a mix of high-flyers, celebrities and Russian oligarchs.

Porto Montenegro was once the deep sea harbour for the Yugoslavian navy.

Today, a reminder of its military past are the two submarines

resplendent in navy blue.

If you aren't staying here but you fancy a wee taste of the high life,

you can come along and spend the day at the Puro beach club.

I see you've beaten me to it. Comfy?

The beds are 30 euro a day. I'm OK, I'll just stand here.

Porto Montenegro's marina allows you to find somewhere quiet

away from the beach.

It's a cool way to get a taste of the high life

and escape the hoi polloi.

Montenegro's history has been shaped by its seafaring past

and we reckon a day trip to the historic port town of Perast

should definitely be on your agenda.

In the 17th and 18th centuries,

Perast was an important maritime centre,

ruled by the City Republic of Venice.

Students came from all over the world

to study at its prestigious naval college.

At one stage, there were four shipyards

and a fleet of up to 1,000 ships, but now all that's left

are the baroque palaces that were built by the important local families

and the wealthy mariners of the 17th century.

Palata Buiovich, now the Museum of Perast,

was built by the architect Giovanni Batista Fontana from Venice,

and the story goes that when the owner, Vicko Buiovich, asked Giovanni

if he could build an even more beautiful palace, Giovanni said yes

and Vicko threw him off the balcony. Tough gig.

You recommended that we get a water taxi out to Gospa od Skrpjela,

or Our Lady of the Rocks island. That's a bit easier to say.

From Perast, Our Lady of the Rocks island

can be reached by a regular boat service.

The ticket is only three euro and the trip takes just a few minutes.

The island was built by locals in the 15th century around a rocky crag

and construction began with the hulls of scuttled ships.

The island is now reinforced by an annual stone-dropping ritual.

Every year on the 22nd July, the locals bring stones in their boat

and drop them into the sea around the island.

This custom has both symbolic and practical meaning,

because the stones reinforce the island, which is constantly being eroded by the sea.

And the church on Our Lady of the Rocks has a real romantic pull.

This is one of the most popular wedding venues in Montenegro,

and you can see why.

Around the walls of the church is a unique collection

of silver votive plaques featuring relief images of ships

from the Gulf of Kotor.

The other fascinating thing about this island is that the small square

in front of the church is known as "the place of reconciliation".

Historically, local people used to come out here to settle

their quarrels and disputes instead of going through the court system.

If you're not into going abroad this year, you might want to try

a short break a bit closer to home. Check this out.

This week I'm taking a trip to Strangford Lough in County Down

to find out why this area is popular with both locals and tourists alike.

Strangford Lough is the largest sea lough in the British Isles

and one of only three marine nature reserves in the UK.

It's a great place for kayaking, sailing, fishing, or just taking in the scenery.

The inner lough is calm and quiet and it's a great place for watersports

or picnicking in one of the islands, but at this narrowest point,

the tidal currents are vicious.

This stretch of water that connects Strangford Lough to the open sea

is known as The Narrows,

and it has one of the strongest tidal currents in Europe.

In fact, the name Strangford was coined by Viking invaders

and it means "the strong fjord".

On board the ferry that crosses The Narrows between Strangford

and Portaferry, you can really appreciate the skill

of the ferry captain in negotiating the fierce currents.

On the east side of the Lough, you'll find Mount Stewart,

an 18th-century National Trust property,

which is famous for its gardens.

In gardening terms, Mount Stewart Gardens are actually quite young.

They were designed and planted by Edith, Lady Londonderry in the 1920s,

but it's the way they reflect her personality that makes it so unique.

Lady Londonderry had no formal training in horticulture

or landscaping but managed to create a sub-tropical garden that has

become known for rare and exotic plants that flourish

in Strangford Lough's temperate climate.

Lady Londonderry also went to India and was so impressed

by the monkeys kept by the maharajas that she

incorporated them into statues all along one of the gardens.

I really love how exotic and colourful and creative

these gardens are, and Lady Londonderry has included herself

all over the place. She's even there in the topiary.

On the other side of the Lough you'll find Killyleagh -

a popular stop-off point on the shores of Strangford Lough,

distinguished by its fairy-tale castle.

There are lovely walks nearby and some good places to eat.

It is also the birthplace of Hans Sloane,

an 18th-century philanthropist who, among other things,

invented milk chocolate drinks, which, in my book,

is a good enough reason for erecting a statue in his honour.

There are plenty of places to eat dotted around Strangford Lough,

but few can compare with Daft Eddy's on Sketrick Island for its location.

The restaurant is on an island accessed by a narrow causeway

and overlooks the remains of a 15th-century castle.

A perfect spot to sit back and enjoy the views.

Strangford Lough and the surrounding countryside has always been

a tourist destination.

This was encouraged with the development of the railways

in the 19th century.

One line that played a vital role in the promotion of tourism

in this area was the Belfast and County Down railway.

Today, you can experience the golden age of train travel

by taking a trip on the Downpatrick steam train.

The steam train runs along a restored section of the Belfast

and County Down Railway through the Downpatrick Marshes.

The journey takes about ten minutes

and runs from Downpatrick to Inch Abbey.

George is the conductor on the train

and he fell in love with railways when he was a small boy.

A steam train is actually, unlike a diesel,

it's a living thing, and as youngsters,

I can remember well, and on a train that's travelling at maybe

40-50mph, we used to make up little rhymes,

as it went along, clickety-clickety-clickety.

It's the comfort, the rocking.

I can remember when I was a child, going on Sunday school excursions

and going to Newcastle. That was on the old Belfast-County Down railway.

It's on this line here where we are today.

That's a lovely, old-fashioned way to travel and a short step back in time.

Along the western shore of Strangford Lough

is Castle Espie Wetland Centre.

This is one of Northern Ireland's top conservation-led visitor attractions

and it's home to the largest collection of ducks,

geese and swans in Ireland.

There is a state-of-the-art visitor centre with learning displays,

a restaurant and, of course, a gift shop.

Once you check in, you can grab a map and seed to feed the birds

and then you're ready to go.

The centre is open 363 days a year and there's always something

different to do and see, so check the website for family activities.

Many of the wildfowl are endangered species

and are hand-reared to ensure their survival.

Visitors are encouraged to get up-close

and personal with the wildlife.

That's really tickly.

During the autumn, Strangford Lough is famous

for the Brent Geese that migrate here in their thousands, and in the summer

it's home to a huge number of ducklings, goslings and cygnets.

This observatory was created from an old lime kiln,

a legacy of the Victorian brickworks that was once here,

but it's also a really nice spot to get a view of Strangford Lough.

There's a range of habitats and there are hides and information

points all around the reserve so you always know what you're looking at.

Well, Castle Espie is a great example of eco-tourism,

and it's surprisingly a lot more interesting and fun than I thought it would be.

I definitely think you'd enjoy a day out here with the kids.

If you fancy somewhere to stay that's a little different,

then I would recommend Helen's Tower,

a three-storey stone tower on the Clandeboye Estate.

This definitely appeals to my inner princess.

On a clear day you can see Belfast Lough to the north

and Strangford Lough to the south.

I like the balance of conservation and convenience here

but it only sleeps two and it's not really a place to bring the kids.

It costs from £180 for a two-night weekend stay.

So that was Strangford Lough and now we're back in the Balkans.

where this week we're taking a getaway in Montenegro.

So far we've checked out the main tourist beaches,

seen the shiny new marinas,

explored the medieval streets of Budva Old Town

and seen some of Montenegro's iconic sights.

On Getaways, we like to show you hidden gems and to let you see why

you should definitely give up a day on the beach to explore.

Away from the coast, the interior of Montenegro is almost entirely

mountainous - the name Montenegro means "Black Mountain".

Some of the last bears and lynx in Europe hide away in these hills.

Montenegro has been quick to capitalise

on the rugged countryside's appeal to hikers, bikers and eco-tourists.

You can do everything here, from kayaking to horse riding.

And there's another adrenaline sport that's becoming

massively popular here - white water rafting -

and the Tara River Canyon is one of the sport's prime destinations.

Ryan McLennan from Newry described it as "death defying".

It looks relatively calm now, this is July.

If you come to do this April and May, just after the thaw of snow

up in the mountains, this is a watery roller coaster.

The Tara River Canyon is the longest and deepest river canyon in Europe.

In fact, at 1,300 metres, it's said to be only slightly less deep

than the Grand Canyon in America - now that's deep.

Montenegro's also got the biggest freshwater lake

in the Balkans and if you're looking for a quieter day out

then we'd recommend an excursion to Lake Skadar,

part of the Skadar National Park,

one of Montenegro's four National Park areas.

The village of Rijeka Crnojevica

was once the favourite summer retreat of the court of King Nikola,

Montenegro's only king, but nowadays it's a great jumping off point

for kayaking and boat trips on Lake Skadar.

A boat trip is a good way to take in the scenery

and to see the National Park's flora and fauna.

This is actually one of Europe's biggest bird reserves.

Expect to pay around ten euro for an hour's trip on the lake.

Even if you have the most casual interest in ornithology,

this place is a dream for you. Over 240 different species of bird here.

If you're lucky, you'll see one of the last pelicans in Europe around here.

I just loved it because it was just so relaxing.

It was absolutely gorgeous. I loved it.

The mountains are an option for the holiday-maker looking for an

escape from the crowds and here's another of our recommendations.

Montenegro is a multi-faith country.

the dominant religion here is Eastern Orthodox Christianity.

I wanted to visit the rather special monastery of Moraca,

which is small, but perfectly formed.

One of Montenegro's most important monasteries, Moraca,

was founded in 1252.

Tourists come here in their droves, mainly to see

the 15th-century frescoes, which are absolutely stunning.

But for Montenegrins, this monastery has a special significance,

because during the 500 years of Ottoman rule,

the monks here kept the local traditions alive.

Catherine McGinnis from Belfast is just one of the many of you

who described Montenegro's mountains as "breathtaking".

They feel very undiscovered, and to me,

this feels like one of the final frontiers in European tourism.

We've picked our top activities to do here

and my first option is to find a four-legged friend.

The only way to really see the mountains

is to get an alternative form of transport, and activity holidays

are becoming increasingly popular here. It's really to organise

a day's horse racing with one of the adventure companies.

We took a three-hour trek through the mountains at a relaxed pace.

There's still some way to go to meet European standards.

For instance, you get a cycling helmet rather than a proper riding hat.

You can hire a horse here for around 75 euro for three hours,

with lunch thrown in.

And finding a place to eat is an adventure in itself,

with somewhere pretty authentic for a stop off.

This is most definitely not a fast-food joint.

Traditionally, farmers moved their livestock to mountain passages

for the summer, although this happens less and less.

This is a typical katun, or summer farmhouse,

and my guide has arranged for me to have a traditional Montenegrin dish called kacamak.

Kacamak is prepared with corn meal, cream,

cheese or sour cream, potatoes and peppers, and making it

is all a bit of a palaver.

Not sure what this is going to taste like.

This family really do live here during the summer and this is

the way they cook. This isn't something that's just laid on for tourists.

And if you're looking for a real rustic experience, you can sometimes

stay at these places as some other katuns have rooms to rent overnight.

Well, it ends up looking like cheesy champ.

It's a total carb-fest.

That's so delicious.

Thank you.

And forget the diet!

That's loads. Real good comfort food.

This will keep you going for the whole day.

Potatoes and cheese, you can't beat it.

All these potatoes are grown in this farm as well.

That was absolutely idyllic. I feel like I've travelled

back in time. The countryside is virtually unspoiled.

It's so quiet. The views are amazing. The flowers are so colourful.

That was one of the best days I've spent in Montenegro.

Whilst I was horse riding,

Joe was exploring the mountains in a different way.

There aren't many purpose-built mountain biking routes

as activity tourism is still being developed here but adrenaline sports

are becoming increasingly popular and this is a fast-growing industry.

Now there are designated trails here

but if you're feeling more confident and experienced, you should go

off-trail, but I do warn you, the terrain can get quite rough.

Keep your wits about you.

Back on the coast and I'm visiting a tourist favourite

15 miles north of Budva.

It's one of the best fortified towns on the Adriatic.

Kieran Higgins from Sligo was one of many of you who contacted us

to tell us that the highlight of their holiday in Montenegro was a trip to Kotor.

I'm going to check out what's so special about it.

Once an independent city-republic with its own elected prince

and senate, over the years, Kotor has changed rulers and occupiers

14 times, including a brief occupation by Britain

in 1813 during the Napoleonic Wars.

I'll not lie to you, it is quite a dander to get up here,

but I think you'll agree, the view is worth it.

Kotor's been described as a mini Dubrovnik,

because of the very distinctive red roofs and the medieval walls.

In fact, the walls here are twice the length of Dubrovnik's,

and to be honest, I think it has a charm all of its own.

The best-known landmark in Kotor is the Cathedral of St Tryphon,

consecrated in 1166, five centuries before St Paul's

and 300 years before the discovery of America.

And did you know St Tryphon is the patron saint of gardeners

and wine growers?

I mean, really, if you're a culture vulture or a history buff,

or you're just the sort of person who loves to wander around

old medieval streets, sit down, have a coffee, and people watch,

then Kotor is right up your street.

It's really quaint and really beautiful.

Kotor is only a half hour's drive away from Budva,

but if you do decide to spend the night here, and you could do

a couple of days here no problem, you will be able to find

some beautiful, quaint and very reasonable places to stay.

One of our choices was the Hotel Montecristo,

slap bang in the historic town centre.

One week's bed and breakfast here will cost from £656 per person,

that's based on two people sharing.

There are a good range of places to stay in Montenegro,

both on the coast and in the mountains.

So where else to stay when you're on holiday here?

On the Budva Riviera, we based ourselves at the Slovenska Plaza.

The Slovenska Plaza's actually more like a holiday village than

a traditional hotel. It's got three and four-star rooms

that open out onto this street with loads of cafes, bars

and even mini supermarkets.

The holiday complex is family-friendly

and we found food and drink to be cheaper than other European resorts.

The rooms are smart and modern

and a good value option.

One week's half board here will cost from £518 per person,

that's based on two people sharing.

This price includes flights and transfers.

When we were in the mountains, we based ourselves at the Bianca Resort

and Spa Hotel in Kolasin, which is a ski destination in the winter.

The five-star Hotel Bianca was once owned by the state

and it was renovated in 2006.

One night's bed and breakfast

will cost from £80 a room, that's based on two people sharing.

If you can afford to splash the cash

and you're looking for a luxury option with a great private beach,

then the Hotel Splendid might be just what you're looking for.

The rooms are what you'd expect from a five-star,

with lots of luxurious touches.

One week's bed and breakfast at the Hotel Splendid

costs from £798 per person.

This price is for two people sharing and includes flights and transfers.

We booked our hotels and flights to Montenegro with Croatia Tours.

For more information on any of our holidays, please visit...

-So what's the verdict?

-I loved this place.

The beaches are great but I really recommend coming into the mountains.

Now, it is a bit rough around the edges

but it's got plenty of potential and loads of character.

We came here knowing very little about the place, but I have to say,

I am very much in love with Montenegro. The people here

are friendly, funny, similar to the folk back home.

My advice would be, come here before everyone else does.

See you next time on Getaways.