Episode 6 Getaways

Hello, and welcome to Getaways,

the show where we let YOU tell US where to go.

This week, we're checking out your recommendations

for the French city of Nantes.

Merci.

We flew direct from Dublin to Nantes in just an hour and 45 minutes.

But there are ferry sailings to Cherbourg and Roscoff.

So if you're not in a hurry, you could go by train or take the car.

-Nantes! It looks very pretty so far!

-Indeed. You don't even realise...

I know quite a few people who have been here before,

everybody that has says, "You're going to love it,

"it's a really beautiful city, it's very cool, lots of art,

"a big Jules Verne connection," you know?

-Apparently, the beaches are pretty nice too.

-Yeah.

-And the cheese.

Oh, I love cheese.

Coming up, we discover the mechanical giant that roams the city

and follow the green line to discover Nantes' art trail.

We head west to the Atlantic coast, where we

explore the medieval walled city of Gironde.

I go to the beach for a sailing lesson

and Joe takes a short break in County Clare.

Nantes is the largest city in the Brittany region of France.

Often referred to as the Venice of the West, it's grown up

around the intersection of the rivers Erdre and Loire.

Nantes was built on a tradition of shipbuilding and maritime trade.

And the industrial heart of the city was the Ile de Nantes,

a huge island in the Loire River that was home to shipyards, docks

and manufacturing businesses that became redundant during the 1980s.

Today, the Ile de Nantes Project has transformed the area into

an urban playground that features some strange and exotic theme park

attractions inspired by Nantes' most famous writer, Jules Verne.

The centrepiece of this amazing project is this fella,

combining creative imagination and engineering ingenuity.

I'm going to give it a shot.

Le Grand Elephant is a masterpiece of creative engineering.

Whoo! Hello!

It stands 12 metres high, weighs 50 tons

and can carry up to 50 passengers on a 30-minute ride around the Ile de Nantes.

And anyone who gets in the way, gets sprayed.

No exceptions.

Don't mess with the elephant.

Anyone can ride the elephant, including babies and toddlers

and there's disabled access.

From 40 feet up, it's a great way

to see the city from a unique perspective.

Another landmark is this giant yellow crane,

which stands at the western tip of the island,

a remnant of the city's industrial past.

Brian Smith from Belfast is one of the many people who

recommended we come along the Ile de Nantes.

And being a Belfastian, I can kind of see why.

Except, you know, we've got two of them.

And they're bigger.

And if you're wondering what on earth that is

hanging from the crane, it's one of the many original art installations

that you'll find here in Nantes.

As you wander around Nantes, you'll see lots of weird

and wonderful objects and sometimes it's nice to be surprised,

but if you don't want to miss anything, follow the green line.

All the main attractions are on the green line

and you can actually download an app with a handy map

and all the relevant information on everything you will see.

The green line is a ten-mile trail which guides you along the city's

architectural, cultural and artistic highlights.

The line is literally painted on the street, so find it

and you won't get lost.

A distinctive landmark along the green line is this factory

with its ornately decorated tower.

Now, you might recognise these biscuits.

They are enormously popular here in France.

And for nearly 100 years, they were made here

at the Lu biscuit factory. It's now been converted

into an arts and entertainment centre over the summer.

And Claudia Headon from County Kildare recommended we come along and check it out.

Inside, the building retains its industrial feel,

with cool lighting and minimalist furniture.

There's a bar, a restaurant, a gift shop

and various exhibitions throughout the year.

Oh, I'm in luck!

Because it just so happens that the current exhibition has a video game theme.

And retro ones, too.

With an exhibit tracing the history of computer games

way back to the days of Pong and the Sega Megadrive.

And the main exhibition space has been converted into a games room

where you can just lie back and lose yourself in video game nirvana.

Here on the north bank of the Loire

is another art installation, this time with a serious message.

The pathway along Quai de la Fosse

is imprinted with the names of slave ships that sailed from here

during the dark days of the transatlantic slave trade.

The path leads you to a memorial to the abolition of slavery.

In the underground passageway beside the river is a 90-metre

glass plaque with significant quotes about the struggle against slavery.

With the clever use of water, light and sound, the artist

has created a space for quiet reflection.

I asked one of the local guides to give me

the background to the memorial.

So, what was the idea behind building this memorial?

Well, the idea was that we really wanted here to have a monument

to talk about this and tell the story

and not to forget about this long period of our history, our economy

and this place was perfectly chosen just along the river

and facing the beautiful 18th-century houses.

These are testimonies of the past, actually.

One of the streets that caught my eye on the Green Line

is the Rue Marechal Joffre,

where the signs above the shops have been reimagined for the summer

using wooden automats.

I caught up with the English artist responsible for the project.

Gavin Pryke.

So, Gavin, tell me how your installation came about.

Well, I had this street to do whatever I liked with and I saw

this couple kissing in this restaurant

and I got talking to them.

I drew them and they lived in the street and they do everything in the street.

And I thought that really talks about the community of the street.

Are all automats based on people who actually

live on the street or frequent it or work there?

Yes, it's an actual couple.

-It's the same guy and girl all the way down the street.

-Oh, really? OK!

The girl comes back from her travels and then she sees him.

Then she has a burger, he has fish and chips, they get talking,

he says he's going to DJ later in the week and she gets a dress,

he gets his hair cut.

She doesn't go and see him DJ because she saw the flyer

and it looked a bit naff. So...

LAUGHTER

She calls him and they have lunch then they go for dinner.

He's got a hangover so he has a bit of a detox before the date

and then at the end of the street, she is repairing her dress.

-A classic love story, eh?

-Yeah, yeah. Classic love story.

I mean, Nantes is a very creative city it seems a lot of areas

are geared around creativity and promotion of creativity.

-Would that be right?

-Totally. It's the most creative city I've been to.

Artists come from all over the world and there's loads of possibilities.

So many musicians and different music coming from here.

It's got a certain vibe about it.

I really like the place.

Now, if you come to Nantes by car, then my advice is park it.

It's a fairly compact city, so walking is probably your best bet.

Nantes was voted European Green capital in 2013 and it has

one of the best sustainable transport systems in France.

Keith from Newtonards told us to get one of these, the Pass Nantes.

The pass is good value.

It gets you around the city on the buses, trams and the navibus.

We are in France so you probably won't be surprised to know

that cycling is a popular way to get around

and I'm going to take this little bike for a trip

around the Ile de Nantes.

The Bicloo bikes are similar to what we have in our cities at home.

You can hire a bike

and leave it at many of the bike stations around the city and,

with a vast range of cycle paths and lanes,

it's a pretty good option.

The Green Line takes you past another ambitious art installation,

The Rings by Daniel Buren...

..and you can stop off at La Cantine,

an industrial warehouse converted into

a simple outdoor restaurant with a limited menu,

but a bit of a festival atmosphere.

Niall from Dublin recommended we visit

the Chateau des Ducs de Bretagne.

The first castle of the Dukes of Brittany was constructed

in the 13th century and was built to house...?

Anyone? Anyone?

That's right, the Dukes of Brittany.

It later became Breton residence of the French royal family,

but now it has been converted into a museum that traces the history of

Nantes and the ramparts are a perfect place

to get a panoramic view of the city.

This is Angelique, a guide here at the chateau.

Angelique, the thing I noticed when I came in,

very different styles of architecture in different areas.

Yeah, that's what most of the visitors think

when they come here in the courtyard.

The first castle that you see was built at the end of the Middle Ages.

-This is Gothic.

-Yeah.

But when the Duchy of Brittany became French in the 16th century

and they had a Renaissance building and also at the end of the 18th

century, this military building over there was used as a storehouse.

And the chateau has undergone quite an extensive restoration

project for tourism, hasn't it?

-Exactly. It reopened in 2007 after 17 years of restoration work.

-Wow!

Back in the day, this entire moat would have been filled with water

channelled from the Loire.

Now they've incorporated like a walkway and a cycle path,

but still living in the water, which is really cool,

they have ducks and turtles. Brilliant!

And in keeping with the city's passion for public art,

the moat provides the perfect space to display this piece

by renowned American artist Patrick Dougherty.

The centre of town has some beautiful, historic squares

where you can watch the world go by

in one of the many cafes or go for a shopping expedition.

Nantes isn't necessarily known for its shopping,

but if you're looking for a shopping trip with a touch of history,

Maggie Hayes from Belfast suggested we take a look at this place.

BUSKER SINGS

Built by Louis Pommeraye in the 1840s, the Passage de Pommeraye

links two shopping streets on different levels.

The Renaissance sculptures

and elaborate designs of the shop fronts give the shopping mall

a touch of class, a pleasant hangover from the Belle Epoque.

I reckon a classy joint like this...

I might just find something Joe would like.

Now, we all know Joe has a bit of a thing for a stripe,

so I got him the real deal - an authentic Breton fisherman's shirt.

Lovely!

Now, a lot of you recommended that we should try the food.

Hey! Quelle surprise!

It is France, so where better than the Talensac farmers' market?

This is where the restaurant and cafe owners around the city come

to get the freshest produce so you know it's going to be good quality.

These salted caramel treats are a local delicacy in fashionable

restaurants and cafes all over France.

The local wine is the Muscadet,

so-called because of its musky flavours.

Cheers! Very drinkable, but it's a bit early in the morning!

This place has been going since 1937 and is open every

day except Mondays from seven in the morning until lunchtime.

Sunday is the big day when the locals descend so it can get busy.

My favourite part of any meal is the end.

That's when you break out with the fromage.

This one is goat's cheese.

-Goat's cheese?

-Yes. It's made here by us.

Oh, yeah!

One of the top treats you recommended we try

is the galette, a bit like a crepe but with a Breton twist.

And galette-maker extraordinaire Madeleine

is willing to let me try my hand at it.

Well, how hard can it be?

As they say in France, petits gateaux. Wee buns.

She's giggling. That's not a good sign.

HE LAUGHS

Oh! There we go.

Half price crepe, everyone! Half price crepe!

Nantes is quite a low-level city, but the Tour de Bretagne

is a landmark bid building that is physical all over town.

Perfect for a rendezvous with a friend.

A bit like Joe, this building is tall,

it was made in the '70s and I'm told it has a great view of the city.

The bar on the 32nd floor of the building is popular with

visitors and locals and it opens late every day in the summer.

It's called Le Nit, which means the nest,

and it features a giant bird that stretches around the bar,

protecting her hatchlings.

-Bon soir, Monsieur.

-Bon soir, mon amie. Sit down.

-Welcome to my lair in the air.

-I'm very egg-cited to be here.

I thought you might be. I poached us a couple of drinks.

-Nice! I like this little yolk.

-Ha-ha! Egg-cellent!

This is a Muscadet. A very popular local white wine.

This is the kir Breton, which is cidre et cassis.

Basically, cider and blackcurrant.

We call it snakebite and black back home.

-Fancy!

-I'm that classy!

-How did you find the Green Line?

-I love it.

Got around it on a bike,

saw everything I needed to see really quickly.

Fabulous!

It's a great way to get around and also you're constantly

surprised by new pieces of art.

-Totally.

-Cheers!

And, of course, from up here you get a bird's eye view of the city.

But hopping on a plane isn't the only way to escape it all,

and Joe is off on a short getaway to County Clare.

First stop on my visit to County Clare is the dramatic

cliffs of Moher.

Rising over 200 metres above the sea

and stretching five miles along the coastline,

these cliffs attract around one million visitors every year.

But to really get the impression of their size,

you need to get out on the water.

From a distance, you might think the grey

streaks across cliffs are a geological feature,

but it's only on closer inspection that you realise it is in fact

guano or sea bird droppings.

And a lot of it.

It's like a bird hotel.

Apparently, they only do it on this side because on the other side,

the waves come and wash them off.

Around 30,000 pairs of sea birds find shelter on the cliffs.

Puffins, guillemots and razorbills

nest between April and July every year.

Up on dry land,

there are protected pathways to explore the cliffs on foot.

And there's a visitor centre on site

with exhibitions and interactive displays

explaining the geological heritage and history of the area.

A few miles inland from the cliffs is the Burren.

The dramatic grey rocky landscape

is home to some rare and important flora and fauna.

But I'm going beneath the surface to explore the Aillwee Cave.

It's one of the oldest caves in Ireland

and I'm told it featured in an episode of Father Ted.

AS VICTOR MELDREW: But I don't believe it!

Sorry.

Each time it drips, it leaves behind a few more calcite crystals.

There are guided tours through the caves, where you learn about

the formation of these stalagmites and stalactites,

and some of the significant artefacts that were discovered down here.

The bones that we see here were probably left behind by bears

that have used the cave as a hibernation den.

When they excavated the cave,

they found these remains of a European brown bear,

an animal now extinct in Ireland.

There we go.

There's proof they were once here.

Above the caves is another visitor attraction,

where you learn about these incredible creatures.

Lily is going to hit this with a little bit of a thump.

There were go. Circles round and lands on our prize.

Good girl, Lily.

The Birds Of Prey Centre has three daily shows

where visitors can experience for themselves

the ancient art of falconry.

Wow! Ah!

'And you might get a chance to get up close to the birds.'

Batty here is a Bateleur eagle

'and Jamie Bailey is one of the falconers at the centre.'

What an amazing creature.

He is, absolutely amazing.

How do you train the birds? Is it quite a long process?

It can be long, depending on the bird itself.

All of the birds have their own characteristics

and everything we do is based on falconry.

So falconry has been around for over 4,000 years.

Initially it was a method of hunting with these guys.

Everything we do, we are just taking it to that step

before you'd go hunting with them, so you're learning trust.

Trust is the key thing with everything.

You must have quite a bond

because Batty is happy as Larry just sitting there, isn't he?

He's happy.

He's done his day's work and he's got a relaxing time now.

The cliffs and the Burren are popular tourist attractions,

so there are plenty of places to stay.

Doolin is a great place to base yourself

to explore the cliffs and the Burren.

It has a good range of hotels and lots of B&Bs

and, er... some great pubs.

We're on a gateway to the French city of Nantes.

I've taken a ride on Le Grand Elephant

and we've taken in some of the art on the city's Green Line.

For the next part of our getaway,

we're heading west from the city of Nantes to the Atlantic coast.

And along the banks of the Loire are yet more quirky art installations.

Like La Maison Dans La Loire,

which is sort of self-explanatory.

Then there's the Salvador Dali-inspired

yacht hanging over the lock gate,

and the Serpent Of The Ocean,

which lies at the point where the Loire flows out into the Atlantic.

And an hour's drive west of Nantes brings you to the

resorts on the Atlantic coast.

Annalise Mohan from Dublin

told us to visit the seaside town of La Baule.

La Baule became a popular holiday resort in the late 1800s,

bringing tourists from Nantes and Paris.

These days,

La Baule remains a popular seaside destination

for French tourists who flock here

during the peak holiday season in August.

There are lots of accommodation options along the massive

stretch of beach, which is great for swimming,

beach games and for families with children.

But today, I'm going to have a go at some sailing.

The coastline here is ideal for all types of watersports

and the sheltered bay

and stiff breeze coming in from the Atlantic

makes it the perfect place to learn to sail,

and I'm getting a lesson on sailing a catamaran.

My sailing instructor, Benoit,

is literally showing me the ropes

for ten minutes before we set off.

I wouldn't call myself a sailor

but it doesn't take long to get the hang of it.

And before long, I'm steering the boat by myself.

This bridge marks the end of the Loire

and the shipbuilding port of Saint-Nazaire.

This is where the great French ocean liners

like the Ile De France and the SS Normandie were built.

But during the Nazi occupation of France, this coastline

became an important strategic location for the German navy.

The dry dock here was chosen because it was able to service

the biggest German battleships like the Bismarck and the Tirpitz

and the port here became home to the largest German U-boat fleet.

This massive concrete structure was built to service

and repair the German submarines that sailed from here

to wreak havoc on the Allied merchant shipping

during the Battle of the Atlantic.

That roof is nine metres thick, with layers of concrete,

steel and granite and to this day, it remains virtually indestructible.

So now it has been cleverly converted into a tourist attraction.

Fittingly, part of the base is now used to house

a decommissioned French submarine, the Espadon,

a museum exhibit which is open to the public.

Although this submarine was built after the Second World War,

its dimensions are similar to the German subs that were kept here.

I'll tell you,

this is no place for a six-foot-four big unit like me.

30 minutes away, on the Atlantic coast,

the medieval walled city of Guerande

is a stark contrast to the concrete and steel of Saint-Nazaire.

Guerande is one of the few walled cities in France

where the walls remain intact all the way around

and you can take a stroll around almost all of the ramparts.

Inside, the walls, the streets

and buildings have been preserved in traditional Breton style,

with traditional shops and restaurants and even the musicians.

There's a big Celtic connection with this part of France

and each year in August,

there's a festival that celebrates Brittany's Celtic roots.

So you'll feel right at home.

The area surrounding Guerande

also has some interesting and varied places to visit.

And I'm starting with the Pays Blanc, or the white lands

of the Guerande Salt marshes.

The salt marshes take advantage of the very low flat area

along this part of the Atlantic coast.

Sea water is naturally evaporated from these tidal pools

to leave behind salt deposits

that are harvested as a prized cooking ingredient.

And this is what they come here for.

Fleur De Sel, the creme de la creme of salt.

Gourmet chefs not just in France but round the world swear by this stuff.

White gold. White gold.

COCK CROWS

While Joe is on the coast,

I've headed inland to Briere Natural Park

to visit a perfectly preserved Breton village.

Kerhinet was once a working farming community

but now it's an open-air museum

with traditional thatched cottages and a little auberge

where you can stop for lunch

or stay in one of the cute rental cottages.

But if you want to keep the kids amused on a rainy day

or even a sunny day, for that matter,

then a good option is the Ocearium in nearby Croisic.

A big attraction for the kids

is the penguin show at feeding time.

And inside, you can wander through Le Tunnel.

That's French for "the tunnel".

We got up close and personal

with the weird and wonderful aquatic residents of Davy Jones's locker.

But the highlight for me

is the one-million-litre shark tank, which is mesmerising.

In Nantes, we based ourselves at the Oceania Hotel De France,

which is in the centre of town

and makes an ideal base if you want to explore the city.

If you want to be near the beach in La Baule,

then a week at the Hotel Villa Cap D'Ail has double rooms...

But you might want to check availability

during the French holiday season in early August.

If you like the great outdoors but you also like the big city vibe,

then Nantes Camping has the best of both worlds.

Located near the city centre, this area of urban parkland

is a short bike ride to the centre of town.

The site gives you options ranging from pitches for caravans

and motor homes, there are chalets, tents,

and static caravans all available to rent...

We flew from Dublin to Nantes with Aer Lingus...

A return flight costs, on average, around £140.

For more information, check out our website...

Well, Joe. Did you enjoy our Brittany adventure?

You know what? Spending time between Nantes and the Atlantic coast,

that takes in everything I love about France.

Speaking of which, what a lovely new top you have.

Very Breton.

I like to embrace my surroundings.

Don't worry.

I got you a little something.

You did not. You wee treat! Look at that. The classic.

See! Tres Breton!

Tres jolie!