Sudan The Travel Show


Sudan

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There'll be a full bulletin at the top of the hour,

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but now on BBC News it's time for The Travel Show.

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This week we are in Sudan to explore the vast, ancient ruins that

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tourists rarely visit.

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There are about 220 pyramids here which is a lot more

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than the entire country of Egypt.

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You can just see them for kind of miles.

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We go behind the scenes at one of Havana's hidden restaurants.

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And I'm in Peru getting to grips with this acrobatic

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and very noisy dance.

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First up this week, we are taking a road trip through Sudan.

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It is a country that's been marked by conflict in recent years and some

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regions are still off-limits to tourists, but it is possible

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with careful planning to go and explore some of the country's

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amazing archaeological sites, pyramids and temples that date

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back thousands of years.

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We sent Benjamin Zan in search of the remains of an ancient kingdom

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200 kilometres north of the capital Khartoum.

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Hey, guys, high-fives.

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How's it going?

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Nice to see you.

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I'm going to give you a hug.

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How's it going?

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Thank you for coming.

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No problem, sure.

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So, where are we going?

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We are going to see the pyramids?

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How long does it take?

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About four or five hours.

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We probably should go.

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Do you have any Sudanese card games we could play?

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You can put on your headphones and listen to your own music.

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That's not a game, that's just being anti-social.

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And so we were off on a very long and very hot road trip.

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Soon it was time for our first stop, coffee.

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The Sudanese love their coffee and for good reason.

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Does it annoy you that not many people know about these pyramids?

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It actually does because Sudan has a very rich history.

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As a country so diverse it's huge, it was one of the biggest

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countries in Africa, so that brings a lot of diversity

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because we were influenced by Arabs, African countries and everything.

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But people don't know about all of that.

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People only know about what the media usually shows,

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the wars, the starvation, blah, blah, blah.

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Exactly, it doesn't show anything that's rich and anything that

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would impress people into coming here.

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They believe pyramids, Egypt, Nile, in Egypt.

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Sudan has a very rich culture, it's very diverse, but still people

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don't actually know about it.

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Sometimes that kind of makes you sad because this country has

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like a lot of history.

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Exactly.

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As we set off again we soon came across the ancient city of Naqa.

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I can only imagine the civilisation that was here, that did this.

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It is like walking in history.

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It's the middle of nowhere.

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It's like this wire, that bit, I can go through easily.

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It is protected by a 12-year-old kid!

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It's beautiful.

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Look at the engravings.

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This is a ruined, ancient city, one of the largest ruined

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sites in the country.

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Back in the day it was an important part of the Kushiti kingdom of Meroe

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due to its proximity to the Nile and it served as a bridge between

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the Mediterranean world and Africa.

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But now it lies pretty much unprotected.

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The only real protection here comes from a group of villagers

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who periodically visit the well to get water.

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This is the closest thing to security of these temples.

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These are the local villagers who have come here to get water.

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That is pretty much it, there is no one else around.

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As we explored further we found some bones

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on the other side of the ruins.

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There are bones in here.

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I know.

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That is actually crazy, though.

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It is.

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It is like thigh bones.

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It looks so untouched, no one has been inside.

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As it was getting late we journeyed on.

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The roads here are a long and the sun sets fast and soon

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we realised the pyramids would have to wait until the following day.

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We stopped at a roadside restaurant to eat.

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We have a sort of a barbecue but not your own idea

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of what barbecue is.

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There is food which is the local, traditional food of Sudan.

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After the meal as we had nowhere to stay we asked around and found

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a man willing to accommodate us.

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The only catch was that we were going to be sleeping outside.

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We are actually sleeping outside which, to my surprise,

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is not that uncommon here in Sudan.

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So do people actually sleep outside in Sudan?

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Basically in towns most people sleep outside because the sun works

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as an natural alarm.

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They mostly need to wake up early, like the first break of light,

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to go out like farmers and stuff.

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Me and my new friends drifted off.

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The next morning it was finally time to see what we came here for.

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We got up early.

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And made a quick stop at a coffee shop miles away from the pyramids.

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Despite being so close, the owner told me neither he nor any

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of his friends or family had been taught the history of the pyramids.

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Growing up did you tell each other stories about

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what the pyramids were?

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Did people used to be scared of the pyramids?

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Then we journeyed on to see them for ourselves.

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On arrival it was more impressive than I had imagined.

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We had the entire place to ourselves.

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Oh.

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How do you feel?

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We made it.

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My legs, I can't feel my legs.

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All right, so we are actually in the middle of the desert, kind of.

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We have got history for ourselves.

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Look at it, it's just crazy.

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And they just sit here completely unguarded.

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Look at it, this is just like the actual desert.

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These Nubian pyramids are over 4000 years old and are a UNESCO

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World Heritage site.

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Despite that, though, they are completely deserted.

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Visitor numbers are tiny, about 15,000 a year compared

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to the millions who go to the pyramids in Egypt.

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And due to being completely unprotected, the pyramids

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and the history here have been damaged and vandalised.

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Clearly not many have respected it.

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Still, it was like nothing I had ever seen.

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The door is even unlocked to one of the pyramids.

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Mazin gave me a bit of a history lesson on what I was seeing.

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There are more pyramids in this section alone than in Egypt.

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There are about 200 pyramids.

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You can notice that most of the heads of

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the pyramids are chopped off.

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That is an Italian explorer.

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He came here in the 1830s and he chopped off like 14

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pyramids searching for gold and we still don't

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know what he found.

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Do you know what they were used for?

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Yes, they were actually tombs for the black pharaohs

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and qeens back in the days.

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They buried them here with their belongings,

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and clothing and everything.

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It's a sort of respect for the kings of course.

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What is the difference between these pyramids and those in Egypt?

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It is what is inside.

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The pyramids in Egypt are a lot bigger.

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These would go up to 40 metres, but then again the numbers

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of the pyramids themselves makes the difference.

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There are about 220 pyramids here which is a lot more

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than the entire country of Egypt, like the pyramids there.

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Just in this desert?

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Just on this desert alone.

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You can just see them for kind of miles, can't you?

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Exactly.

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It was coming to the end of an unexpected and surprising trip.

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I had seen a side of Sudan that I never thought I would.

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The history and stories Sudan holds are things you don't

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hear about too often.

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But when you see them for yourself it is something

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you will remember for ever.

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Next up on The Travel Show we are in Cuba's capital Havana,

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meeting the chef who has set up a restaurant in his flat

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at the top of a tower block.

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Still to come on this week's Travel Show:

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I join a dance-off

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with a difference in Peru's capital, Lima.

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So don't go away.

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The Travel Show, your essential guide wherever you are heading.

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Hello, I'm Michelle Chan, your global guide with top tips

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on the world's best events in the coming months.

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Starting in England, Hull is the UK City of Culture this year.

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A 365-day event which kicks off with fireworks and light

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projections downtown.

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There'll be art installations across the city, as well as poetry

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readings, rock gigs and photography exhibitions.

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The city will be hosting the Turner Prize, the renowned

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annual arts award at the Farrons Gallery,

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as well as concerts and performances throughout the year.

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The Social Festival, usually a very British affair,

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is taking its house and techno to Mexico and Colombia this year,

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playing on March 17th and 18th in both nations' capitals.

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It might be even noisier in Gadmen, Switzerland, over the weekend

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of February 25th and 26th at the International

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Dog Sledding Race.

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There'll be more than 100 teams and at a slower pace there will be

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dog sled rides for kids while spectators wait

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for the winning team to arrive.

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Staying in the snow in the Austrian Tyrol,

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the lifts close to ordinary skiers to make way for the cult ski race

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White Thrill which takes place in Saint Anton Am Arlberg.

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On April the 22nd over 500 skiers, and snowboarders gather

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on the Beluga Ridge for a mass start, perhaps the most intimidating

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challenge of the well named Payne Mountain.

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The record is eight minutes and 14 seconds.

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The Cypriots port of Paphos becomes the European City

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of Culture this year.

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a mix of Arab and eastern music, and later in the year the Berlin

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Philharmonic is performing.

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Venues are all outdoors, open air concerts, cinema

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screenings are on beaches and there are outdoor exhibitions.

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In the Czech Republic, the Shockproof Film Festival

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plays on February 28th through March the 5th.

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From the capital Prague to Brno, this alternative Festival touts

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itself as lowbrow and in bad taste,

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from the ludicrous and bizarre to camp and controversial.

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Back in Colombia the Vallenato Festival place

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from April 6th to the 30th.

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Coming together will be the best composers of this genre of music.

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Judges are on the hunt for the best drummers,

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lyricists and singers, but it is really the accordion

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players who steal the show.

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The winner is crowned Rey Vallenato, and every ten years,

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and this year is one of those, a decade of winners compete to be

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anointed the King of Kings.

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The Disposable Film Festival plays in San Francisco on April 7th-10th.

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Here's a selection of some of the most innovative films shot

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with the help of a 3-D printer or entirely on a smartphone.

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There'll be workshops, panel discussions and competitions

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showing quirky, online shorts and of course after parties.

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Finally, it's time to dig out that feathered headdress.

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Carnival is fast approaching.

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Some of my favourite places include the cities of Salvador and Norlinda

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in Brazil, which are arguably more authentic

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destinations than Rio.

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The party kicks off on February 23rd and in cooler climes, Cologne

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in Germany begins its feasting and dancing at precisely

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11:11am on February 23rd.

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That's my global guide this month.

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Let me know what's happening in the place where you live

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or where you love.

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We're on e-mail and across social media until next time.

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Happy travelling.

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And finally this week here in Lima I am off

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to the outskirts of the city to find out about a 500-year-old tradition

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that was once driven underground and is now enjoying something

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of a revival.

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Some people even say it could be the inspiration for break dancing.

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It's called scissor dancing and I'm going to see

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if I can make the cut.

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The origin of the Peruvian scissor dance is shrouded in mystery.

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But many believe the tradition began in the highlands of the Andes

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as an act of worship to the mountain gods.

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In the 1500s, the dance was performed to show resistance

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to Spanish rule.

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The movements display the performers' dexterity.

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And the scissors represented their resistance to Spain.

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But the conquistadors thought it was inspired

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by the devil and it was banned.

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Despite the ban, the traditions survived and the twisting,

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turning dance moves were passed down from generation to generation.

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Now its importance in Peru's history has been recognised by UNESCO.

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And it's backbreaking moves would put many

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break dancers to shame.

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Although the scissors are not sharp, learning to control them

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while dancing and leaping can take years.

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Today teams from two different towns are having a scissor dance duel.

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These battles can last for up to ten hours as the performers move

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and spin to the music.

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It seems like anything goes, but the one rule is that

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you absolutely cannot drop the scissors.

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And I'm going to get a lesson to see how it's done.

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Don't shake hands with those.

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So the top ones stay still and the bottom one...

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Oh.

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It's all in the thumb, the thumb and the wrist.

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First I've got to get to grips with the scissors.

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The aim is to hit the handles together in time to the music.

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The blunt blades are not connected, so holding them

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in position is really tricky.

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There is no way I am going to be able to do this

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and coordinate my feet.

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And it's not just mastering the scissors.

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This is the one that makes your knees bleed.

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Learning the dance moves takes some serious commitment.

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Does it hurt to do the jumps and land on your back?

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Does it hurt your head and your knees?

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Do you have injuries?

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Is that blood on your trousers?

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Wow, that's dedication.

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Oh, and I'm getting a hat.

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Gosh, as if it's not hard enough!

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After a few minutes I'm exhausted.

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I can't even imagine how hard it would be to do these moves up

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in the Andes where the thin air makes everything so much harder.

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These guys are true athletes.

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It's hard work.

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That was so much harder than I expected.

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I've got new found respect for these guys.

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But sadly that's all we have got time for in this week's show.

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Coming up next week:

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Somebody at the pub told me tonight

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is supposed to be the coldest night of the year.

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So I'm glad I'm going into an unheated church to sleep.

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Krista's braving the English weather to find out why more

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and more people are camping out in old churches.

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Do join us for that if you can and don't forget

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if you want to follow the rest of the Travel Show team

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on their journeys in real-time, you can sign up to our

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social media feeds.

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All the details are on your screen now.

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In the meantime from me, Carmen Roberts, and the rest

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of the travel show team here in Lima, it's goodbye,

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but let me leave you with some more scissor dancing.

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No great dramas expected weatherwise through this weekend.

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Certainly no cold weather in prospect.

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A relatively mild weekend coming up and a lot of dry weather too.

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Breezy at times, especially in northern areas, where the winds

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have been lighter further south overnight.

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A few fog patches around this morning, so take it steady

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