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test. That line just breaking in the last few moments. We will bring you | :00:00. | :00:00. | |
any updates we get here on BBC News. Myanmar has always | :00:00. | :00:00. | |
been on my wish list. But, because of decades of military | :00:00. | :00:11. | |
rule, it was off-limits. Now the place is opening up, | :00:12. | :00:14. | |
and I want to meet the people who have been behind | :00:15. | :00:17. | |
closed doors for so long, and find out what makes this | :00:18. | :00:21. | |
country so mystical, I'm starting my journey in Yangon, | :00:22. | :00:23. | |
the former capital of the country Heaving street markets, | :00:24. | :00:42. | |
gridlocked roads, and ramshackle And also, as it is monsoon season, | :00:43. | :00:51. | |
it is drenched with rain. But then, in the middle | :00:52. | :01:00. | |
of all the mayhem, is this place. It is actually quite | :01:01. | :01:07. | |
an overcast, grey day. But you come here, | :01:08. | :01:20. | |
and it is like it is brilliant The Shwedagon Pagoda | :01:21. | :01:28. | |
is a revered holy site, years, surviving earthquakes, | :01:29. | :01:50. | |
invasions, and the country's more The story of Myanmar over the last | :01:51. | :01:52. | |
two centuries has really been all about other countries | :01:53. | :02:05. | |
and the military muscling The remnants of British influence | :02:06. | :02:07. | |
can still be seen all over the city. They seized control | :02:08. | :02:17. | |
in the 19th century. Many found colonial Yangon, | :02:18. | :02:23. | |
then called Rangoon, Rudyard Kipling, author | :02:24. | :02:24. | |
of The Jungle Book, described it In 1948, Burma finally | :02:25. | :02:30. | |
gained its independence. But there was much instability | :02:31. | :02:37. | |
and ethnic conflict, and in the early 1960s, | :02:38. | :02:40. | |
the country was thrown into turmoil Decades of isolation followed, | :02:41. | :02:43. | |
as the army ruled the nation They also changed the name | :02:44. | :02:53. | |
of the country to Myanmar, In 2011, the military | :02:54. | :02:58. | |
government relaxed its grip, and although ethnic tensions | :02:59. | :03:11. | |
continue, there have been It turns out my taxi driver Shell | :03:12. | :03:13. | |
was himself a victim Imprisoned after taking place | :03:14. | :03:23. | |
in student protests in 1988, he has spent a total | :03:24. | :03:34. | |
of 14 years behind bars, and when he came out | :03:35. | :03:37. | |
he struggled to get a job. TRANSLATION: I wasn't able to study, | :03:38. | :03:44. | |
since I was imprisoned for 14 years Job opportunities were very slim, | :03:45. | :03:47. | |
so I learned how to drive. Now he and two other former | :03:48. | :03:59. | |
political prisoners have started a cab network called | :04:00. | :04:01. | |
Golden Heart Taxis, to raise funds and help others like them readjust | :04:02. | :04:04. | |
to the outside world. Do you think that tourism | :04:05. | :04:09. | |
is good for this country? TRANSLATION: We've not seen anything | :04:10. | :04:13. | |
like it in our lifetime. It's very good for the country, | :04:14. | :04:16. | |
because we have more hotels for the tourist sector, | :04:17. | :04:18. | |
more job opportunities, And that all generates | :04:19. | :04:21. | |
foreign currency for us. In parts of the city, | :04:22. | :04:38. | |
the outside world is already Something unprecedented has | :04:39. | :04:41. | |
happened in Myanmar. Even in a country blessed | :04:42. | :04:49. | |
with so many amazing steeples, Yep, it is the first Western fast | :04:50. | :04:57. | |
food joint to open in the whole A regular meal costs way more | :04:58. | :05:03. | |
than the average daily wage here. Some worry this is just the start | :05:04. | :05:26. | |
of a big brand invasion, that will ruin the unique | :05:27. | :05:29. | |
character of Yangon. But, as I found out from Myanmar's | :05:30. | :05:35. | |
answer to Lady Gaga, there will always be a uniquely | :05:36. | :05:49. | |
Burmese twist on popular culture. One is your unique voice, | :05:50. | :05:57. | |
and also your dress sense. And she helps me out | :05:58. | :06:04. | |
with all my wardrobes. She has this inspiration | :06:05. | :06:11. | |
from our traditional creators. There are very colourful and bright | :06:12. | :06:15. | |
colours, and even the masks, and she turned it into | :06:16. | :06:21. | |
modern costumes for me. Phyu Phyu is one of the country's | :06:22. | :06:33. | |
most famous pop stars. She actually trained | :06:34. | :06:36. | |
as a doctor, but was determined No easy feat under the military | :06:37. | :06:38. | |
junta, where rebellious artists and musicians were kept in check, | :06:39. | :06:49. | |
something Phyu Phyu Their arbitrary statement said | :06:50. | :06:52. | |
that my style of singing is very bold and very different | :06:53. | :07:00. | |
from the norms. The movement of my lips, | :07:01. | :07:06. | |
and even my voice. Despite the censorship, | :07:07. | :07:09. | |
Phyu Phyu has lasted 12 years Tonight, she is performing | :07:10. | :07:21. | |
at a charity gig. I know you have recorded | :07:22. | :07:36. | |
with artists around the world. What do they know about | :07:37. | :07:39. | |
Myanmar, about Burma? The first impression is that, | :07:40. | :07:41. | |
how could this be possible to survive in the dark | :07:42. | :07:48. | |
cave for like 50 years? It's always a very strange thing | :07:49. | :07:52. | |
for my international artist fans. They would really want to know | :07:53. | :07:55. | |
how we could survive. The next day, I'm leaving | :07:56. | :08:18. | |
the city for the countryside, I'm heading to | :08:19. | :08:31. | |
a pilgrimage site that is It is a volcanic rock | :08:32. | :08:34. | |
over 700 metres high. I can just | :08:35. | :08:44. | |
about see it through the fog. But there are 2,000 of them and, I | :08:45. | :08:51. | |
must admit, the novelty wears off. So, here we are, | :08:52. | :09:07. | |
near the base of Mount Popa. And I'm here to meet | :09:08. | :09:12. | |
a spirit mediator. These 37 nats are spirits, and | :09:13. | :09:25. | |
part of an ancient form of worship And Mount Popa is thought to be | :09:26. | :09:38. | |
the home of the nats. TRANSLATION: Spirit | :09:39. | :09:46. | |
worshippers believe that each And if they have a problem, | :09:47. | :09:48. | |
they come and pray, They hope the nat will fulfil | :09:49. | :09:55. | |
their desires. And tell me, | :09:56. | :10:00. | |
what is your role in this? TRANSLATION: I connect with nats | :10:01. | :10:04. | |
and communicate with them, and Of course, we don't always | :10:05. | :10:07. | |
connect with the spirits. But if one comes, | :10:08. | :10:14. | |
my body will start to shake, and Then I get the message, | :10:15. | :10:17. | |
and pass it to the person. The mediator explains how offerings | :10:18. | :10:24. | |
of flowers One of the nats prefers | :10:25. | :10:29. | |
to be offered alcohol. It is all a bit mysterious, | :10:30. | :10:31. | |
if you ask me. And that is | :10:32. | :10:40. | |
before I've even started the climb. First, like all religious sites | :10:41. | :10:43. | |
in Myanmar, it is shoes off. I should have brought | :10:44. | :11:00. | |
a spare pair of socks. And you do wonder who is really | :11:01. | :11:11. | |
in charge here. People actually being attacked | :11:12. | :11:13. | |
by the monkeys. The climb is steep and not helped | :11:14. | :11:22. | |
by the fact that some of the steps Golden pagodas peeking through | :11:23. | :11:29. | |
the swirling mist. OK, I've climbed the 777 steps to | :11:30. | :11:44. | |
the top of Mount Popa, And because of that mist, | :11:45. | :11:51. | |
it is eerily beautiful. In the central plains of Myanmar | :11:52. | :12:16. | |
lies an ancient site that some say rivals the far more famous | :12:17. | :12:20. | |
Angkor Wat in Cambodia. Here we are, Bagan - 42 square | :12:21. | :12:28. | |
kilometres of monasteries, temples and pagodas, with a claim to be the | :12:29. | :12:33. | |
largest archaeological site in Asia. I'm told this is | :12:34. | :12:38. | |
the best way to get around. This was Myanmar's first capital and | :12:39. | :12:53. | |
where Buddhism in the country began. Over 2,000 religious monuments | :12:54. | :13:00. | |
dominate the landscape. The showstopping scenery was largely | :13:01. | :13:06. | |
hidden from the world during the years of military rule and is | :13:07. | :13:09. | |
yet to be overrun by tourists. So, this is one of the showpiece | :13:10. | :13:19. | |
temples in this whole complex. It is supposed to be amazing, | :13:20. | :13:37. | |
and I'm going to meet a man who in a way created tourism here, | :13:38. | :13:40. | |
way back in the '70s. If anyone knows about | :13:41. | :13:45. | |
the background, the history, the Hello! | :13:46. | :13:47. | |
Welcome to beautiful Bagan. We haven't even reached | :13:48. | :14:06. | |
the shrine yet! By hand! | :14:07. | :14:20. | |
No machinery at all. Ayethwin used to work | :14:21. | :14:30. | |
in a fertiliser factory, but in 1971 he started showing tourists around | :14:31. | :14:35. | |
in exchange for English lessons. The temples here have withstood huge | :14:36. | :14:48. | |
earthquakes and some ham-fisted attempts at restoration under | :14:49. | :14:50. | |
the military junta. Some say that is one reason why | :14:51. | :15:00. | |
Bagan hasn't yet been awarded Yes, | :15:01. | :15:03. | |
they painted whitewash everywhere. And now they're trying | :15:04. | :15:18. | |
to restore it. Yes, slowly. | :15:19. | :15:19. | |
But the calcium fades the colour. There is a lot to be done, | :15:20. | :15:23. | |
but Ayethwin hopes this is the start of more people coming to | :15:24. | :15:26. | |
see the unique monuments here. Because of the government situation, | :15:27. | :15:36. | |
nobody mention I wanted you to know | :15:37. | :15:38. | |
about my country and about We have many things to see, | :15:39. | :15:42. | |
like these temples. Next, we're heading east, | :15:43. | :16:05. | |
but on the way to the airport I am, Chinlone, it's called, | :16:06. | :16:08. | |
and it's a 1,500-year-old ritual, where the emphasis is not | :16:09. | :16:50. | |
on winning but on how beautifully There are the 200 ways to kick | :16:51. | :16:53. | |
and pass the ball. An hour's flight | :16:54. | :17:05. | |
from Bagan is the vast Inle Lake. It covers 116 square kilometres | :17:06. | :17:36. | |
and supports a way of life I have The locals here live in stilted | :17:37. | :17:39. | |
houses and farm floating gardens. Mountains in the background, | :17:40. | :17:47. | |
huge expanse of lake. Yin Myo Su's family are | :17:48. | :17:58. | |
from the Intha people, whose name We had no land to grow, | :17:59. | :18:21. | |
so those bushes, when they die, they become floating piles | :18:22. | :18:29. | |
of rubbish, but good rubbish. On top, | :18:30. | :18:34. | |
we put the earth from the water. It is an important part | :18:35. | :18:41. | |
of our cuisine. We grow things like tomatoes, beans, | :18:42. | :18:44. | |
eggplants. Tell me | :18:45. | :18:48. | |
about the background to this. How old is the tradition | :18:49. | :18:50. | |
of floating gardens? All our ancestors have survived | :18:51. | :18:52. | |
this way for many centuries. There is a whole community set up | :18:53. | :19:00. | |
on the lake. Some of the fishing techniques | :19:01. | :19:11. | |
are also unique to Inle Lake. This fisherman is putting the | :19:12. | :19:35. | |
fishnet into the lake. Yes, we paddle by legs, | :19:36. | :19:44. | |
as you can see. All girls | :19:45. | :19:48. | |
and boys know how to do that. When you are standing like this, | :19:49. | :19:50. | |
you can see the way better, and you can see some sign | :19:51. | :19:56. | |
off fish under the water, and we believe it is faster when you | :19:57. | :19:59. | |
are driving the boat by legs. Images of the one-legged fishermen | :20:00. | :20:09. | |
of Inle are used to sell Myanmar the world over, but she tells me | :20:10. | :20:13. | |
today will likely be fruitless for the fishermen as recent wind | :20:14. | :20:18. | |
and rain has made the water murky. Pollution is also a problem here | :20:19. | :20:24. | |
and over the years, I am going to try to balance it | :20:25. | :20:26. | |
for him. This is when you zoom off and I | :20:27. | :20:49. | |
never see you again! As I come to the end | :20:50. | :20:57. | |
of my journey through Myanmar, the main impression I am left with | :20:58. | :21:21. | |
is that this is one of the most resourceful and fascinating | :21:22. | :21:25. | |
countries I have ever been to. Despite five decades of isolation, | :21:26. | :21:29. | |
the people here have found some way to adapt and survive, whether it is | :21:30. | :21:32. | |
the pop singer I met who battled against censorship or the former | :21:33. | :21:36. | |
political prisoner who has created a future for himself driving tourists | :21:37. | :21:38. | |
around. The resilience | :21:39. | :21:42. | |
of people here is truly humbling. Sandwiched between the tourist | :21:43. | :21:48. | |
powerhouses of India and Thailand, travel here is not easy or cheap, | :21:49. | :21:50. | |
and many hope things will stay that way because as Myanmar starts to | :21:51. | :21:54. | |
reconnect with the outside world, there is a strong message | :21:55. | :21:56. | |
coming from the people here. "We will do things in our own way | :21:57. | :22:02. | |
and at our own pace." However, please leave us to | :22:03. | :22:07. | |
be independent as well. We can even inspire other people | :22:08. | :22:19. | |
because we somehow kept protection in a little bubble | :22:20. | :22:25. | |
for five or six decades. So, like a sunken treasure we | :22:26. | :22:30. | |
are hidden and kept intact. Maybe this is | :22:31. | :22:34. | |
a great opportunity for all people | :22:35. | :22:39. |