Episode 25 The Travel Show

GRUNTING

Canals, hats - you thought you knew Panama? Think again.

'A young Central American nation of four million people,

'Panama links two of the world's biggest oceans.

'It's long been a key transit point for global commerce,

'now it's being recognised as a travel destination, too.

'And its claim to fame apart from the Canal?

'Well, try this for size - without Panama,

'life on Earth would have taken a very different course.'

Christopher Columbus, in his final voyage,

came here to the northwest coast of Panama, in search of Asia.

He died only three years later still believing he'd found it.

'Instead, he'd chanced upon Panama.

'But never fear, Christopher, I'll explore the rest

'of this spectacular country on your behalf.

'On my travels I'll cross Panama from the Atlantic coast,

'where the world-class surf, spiced up with Caribbean Creole

'and dense tropical rainforest, create a heady cocktail.

'Then it's into the highland interior,

'where nature provides the ideal arena for incredible acrobatics...'

So, he expects me to do that? Come on(!)

'..before finally heading for the big city,

'the only city, the capital,

'where Miami meets Havana and the world's most famous short cut -

'the Canal - celebrates its centenary

'by preparing for the next big shipment - tourists.'

But I start my journey here

in the idyllic archipelago of Bocas del Toro,

so laidback it's almost horizontal.

Unless, of course, you're here to ride the next big wave.

'When it comes to pure, raw surf, they say Bocas has the lot.

'Consistent swell, rip tides, crazy barrels -

'if you know what those terms mean you'll be in seventh heaven.

'Beach resort tourism has long been big business

'in neighbouring Costa Rica,

'but local aficionados say the breaks here are world-class.'

The first time I came to this beautiful island there was nothing -

one hotel, just the people that live here,

and it's bloomed a lot and now we got hotels, attractions,

more development, more tourists living here.

And we have more flow of tourists year round.

'Juan David is not only a prominent surf instructor here,

'he's also a qualified life-saver. Very reassuring for someone like me

'who feels out of his depth in a puddle.

'Check the grace and fluidity. I'm a natural(!)'

Paddle. You feel the tail lift. Power stroke. And pop up!

Keep going, bring that front foot forward.

Low, low. That's it, perfect.

Always remember to look up so we don't lose balance.

If you do that, we're surfing already.

Is it harder in the water than here? Yes.

Water time, brother.

OK, this is a journey into the unknown. I am genuinely nervous.

'Man clambers onto surf board and clings on for dear life.

'Man hates being out of his depth.

'Getting to standing position? In your dreams.'

'Meanwhile, just a few hundred metres away...'

'The good news on the novice is... he hasn't drowned! Hooray.'

OK, I've done it.

I've got to say, I was nervous, it was exhausting

but exhilarating and I did ride three waves - didn't stand up -

but rode three waves without falling off.

Now listen, I have gone upside down in planes in the sky,

climbed to the top of mountains,

but this was the most nerve-racking thing I have probably ever done.

And it's over. Phew!

'The main town of the 68 islands that make up Bocas del Toro

'was originally built by the United Fruit Company

'in the early 20th century. Today it's backpackers-ville.

'But where the young, trailblazing, adventure-seeker first arrives

'with only a rucksack, a few dollars and a passion for fun,

'is inevitably where the masses follow.

'Colourful clapboard houses line the streets

'and evenings here almost always turn into apres surf parties.

'This, believe me,

'is Bocas' equivalent of a quiet night in with a good book.'

'But many travellers come here for educational reasons, too.'

SHE SPEAKS SPANISH

'Students in this class alone hail from as far and wide

'as Singapore, the USA and Germany, all to learn Spanish.'

One of the advantages to learn Spanish in Panama is that

the people here speak a little slower.

SHE SPEAKS SPANISH

SHE REPLIES IN SPANISH

'Spanish language schools in Panama are few and far between.

'Mind you, the lingo spoken round these parts

'isn't necessarily straight from a textbook.'

THEY SPEAK SPANISH

"That man is sexy..."

'Because right here don't forget we're next to the West Indies.'

HE SPEAKS SPANISH

I've got a question but in English.

There are lots of expressions that sound English

but are actually Panamanian Spanish, aren't they?

For example, I've heard "I like you" means... I love you.

Means "I love you"? Correcto.

So, innocently, an English person could say, "I like you,"

to a Panamanian and they would get the wrong impression. Correcto.

LAUGHTER

We have a lot of words this way because we have a lot of people

that came from Jamaica, Barbados, from other countries,

so we adapt their language

and we have a combination of a new language now.

'Teacher Iveth herself is a classic example

'of the cultural and racial mix of her country.'

I have, um, black, I have Chinese in my blood.

I also have a little bit of French from Barbados.

Oh, and also I have the Native Indian people.

# And if your mother and your wife was drowning

# I'd like to know which one you won't be saving... #

'The Caribbean heritage is one very important aspect

'of Panamanian identity.

'Ten minutes by boat to Isla Bastimentos,

'past the seafront houses on the stilts,

'and you can see the legacy of that time.'

It all really start in the 18th century, really.

Jamaican come around here. People from England,

from all part of the world, come here to work on the railroad,

work on the Canal, and the banana plantation.

They end up working here and that's the way my relatives come.

# You can never get another mother in your life... #

'Take a hike from this community up along the makeshift

'machete-cleared pathway in Bastimentos and within a few yards

'from the coast you suddenly find yourself in jungle territory,

'and evergreen rainforest.'

This island has more animals and plants that's only from this place,

you know? Like the red frog.

'And then my guide showed me this fellow, the perezoso,

'or "lazy one" as it's known in Panama.

'The three-fingered sloth to the rest of us.'

How long could it spend up there? Weeks. Weeks?

Yeah, sometimes he has the leaves in the tree, he's eaten over there.

And he will come down one time

in the week for use of the toilet. Use the toilet, yes.

'In many ways Panama is a freak of nature.

'Millions of years ago it rose up from beneath the ocean,

'connecting the continents of North and South America

'and then hothousing an amazing wealth of biodiversity.'

And that's what makes Panama unique.

So, from the Caribbean coastline, the next stage of my journey

takes me south into the interior of the country,

Panama's tallest mountains, longest rivers

and most fertile valleys.

'Some of the most lush and green scenery you'll ever see.

'About a third of Panama is set aside

'as protected or national park land.

'Bananas and plantains used to be Panama's biggest export.

'And in areas like this, a simple, rural life is still the norm,

'although a quarter of the population

'live below the poverty line.

'And the higher up you get, the crisper the air,

'and the mistier it becomes as rain and cloud forest surround you.'

When you come across rock formations like here in this mini canyon,

you realise what a haven Panama can be for outdoor types.

If hiking, rafting or climbing is your thing,

you're going to be in your element.

# I'm so fancy

# You already know... #

'These guys certainly are.

'Don't be fooled by how easy they make this look.

'Extreme activities like these are relatively new to Panama and

'their growing popularity is largely down to the inspiration of one man.

'A man who, as I'm about to find out, can appear to defy gravity.'

This is a rock formation that arrive with the last volcanic eruption,

about 100 years ago.

And what is interesting about this rock is that it's very geometrical

and it's very solid rock.

Its structure is stable and this is what we're looking for as a climber

when we're finding a new location for doing the sport.

'At 31, Cesar Augusto Melendez Castillo

'is Panama's first and only professional climber.

'Boquete was never fully developed as a climbing destination

'until Cesar arrived on the scene.'

My father and I used to go on a lot of exploration trips

around our home town, and then we always see these rock formations

and I would always have this feeling that I wanted to climb them.

and I would always have this feeling that I wanted to climb them.

But we didn't have the knowledge how to do it.

So then when I was 21 years old I had the opportunity to meet with

this Canadian climber. And through him is how I got into the sport.

'My turn to scale this rock face like a wild mountain cat.

'Or not.'

OK, let's go for it. OK, let's go for it.

So, you're constantly making choices here...

We're going to show you the different points for climbing

and the different locations for feet and hands.

I'm going to give you, like, the most basic ones.

'I found three things in particular difficult about this.

'Firstly, gripping the rock with my fingers.

'Secondly, lifting my legs up. And thirdly, well, climbing, full stop.'

Yeah. And maybe two hands together.

Very nice, very nice. Bring your right foot up higher one more step.

I'm not going to be able to do this.

You can let go any moment, he got you down there.

Now, THIS is fun.

'Just maybe I'm not a natural...'

No hands.

'..unlike this guy, a genuine rock star.'

Free climbing demands the maximum level of skill.

And you have to face your fears.

But this is what is the beauty about it, you know,

when you face those fears you kind of bring up those inner strengths

that sometimes you don't think you have.

And it's just a beautiful journey.

'From the rugged wilderness of the interior it's a trek across country

'and the very different environment of Panama's capital city.'

The Panama railroad, the classic train line into the big city.

Built in the 1850s by Chinese, Indian,

and Jamaican migrant workers, it actually was part of the journey

for gold prospectors from the north of the United States

to the Californian gold rush. Today, thought, it's helping me

straddle two of the world's biggest oceans -

the Atlantic in the north, to the Pacific in the south.

'Panama City's construction boom.

'The country shouts from the rooftops about its prosperity.

'From the brand-new Museum of Biodiversity

'designed by the internationally renowned Frank Gehry,

'to the flashy skyscrapers built on the proceeds of offshore finance,

'manufacturing and shipping.'

'Mind you, Panama has yet to shake off the reputation

'that some of the cash swilling around is not entirely,

'well, clean.'

There are some big parallels with the story of Miami.

Especially in terms of the drug trade.

Miami became a big hub for drugs and especially money laundering.

And it got a really nice skyline,

which we're seeing replicated right now in Panama.

'And it's in this area, the Casco Viejo, the old town,

'more Havana than Miami, where there's now greatest upheaval.'

As you can see, there's a lot of really beautiful buildings

being renovated over here,

very expensive,

it's being one of most luxurious neighbourhoods in the city.

At the same time, people live here, and people have been living here

for a long time, and most of the people are poor,

you know, this is kind of like a ghetto.

But if you look at this, you look over there, and a couple of blocks

down the road you can get to one of the most dangerous areas of the city

'But transformation offers hope, too.

'Ten years ago a revitalisation project was set up here to create

'a walkable neighbourhood for both rich and poor.

'The new kid on the block -

'this splendid colonial building converted into an upmarket hotel.

'But only until recently it was like the whole square,

'run and occupied by a notorious gang.

'Today, several reformed members actually work in the hotel.'

Panama City is a capital on the move,

from new public transport systems to an expanded Canal

and a drastically transformed skyline.

And the best way to see that is to join a running group.

'This group, one of many sprouting up the city,

'is led by this doctor, who's run marathons around the world

'and who, despite the accent, was born and bred here.'

AMERICAN ACCENT: Good job. Woo-hoo!

I want to see all the different faces of this city.

Can you do that for me?

Absolutely, there are great places to run in Panama.

There's flat, little hills, whatever you want. It's Panama. Let's go.

Lead the way. Let me show you. OK.

While you've been running here,

how much have you seen the city transformed? Totally.

I remember running here when there were almost no buildings

and now we just see the incredible development of the city.

We have grown incredibly.

But when you go in the city there's so much more to see,

especially the people.

When you ask somebody for something

and you get that really nice Panamanian...just warmth.

The warmth of the country is something

and the warmth of the people, that is Panama.

Thank you, bye.

'The name "Panama" literally means "abundance of fish".

'And there's certainly lots of it here in the city's

'main seafood market, right next to the Pacific.

'Local master chef Julio set up a pop-up kitchen

'to give me some insider's tips

'on how to make the raw fish speciality - ceviche, local-style.'

Just get a piece of fish.

This side will be cooked

as fast as half an hour.

And then one of the main ingredients

just to be consistent is the onion, OK?

The onion will give it that sweetness.

The process is just mixing it.

You're going to season it with some habaneros.

Very, very intense flavour.

But it will be cut up with limes

and this one is very intense.

This one gives it the power to cook the fish. OK.

You see right away the fish sort of became whiter.

That means it's getting cooked as we speak.

Listen, I love ceviche anyway, but that tang...

that extra, you know, acidity, gives it everything for me.

We are a country which has a lot of cultures coming into it.

So we are the kind of people that we accept all things around

and make it our own, OK?

We're not a big country, we're a very, very small country

but with a lot of culture.

'There's no doubt that when it comes to culture the USA has played

'a major role in Panama, a legacy of its huge and sometimes

'controversial political and economic influence here.

'It enabled Panama to achieve independence from Colombia

'more than a century ago, then bankrolled

'and controlled the strategic Canal zone until the millennium.

'And today the Canal still stands

'as a remarkable feat of engineering.'

Isn't this amazing?

The iconic Panama Canal and I'm cycling along it.

Fantastic!

'Another container ship rolls in through Panama City's locks.'

Where you from? Philippines.

'This 80km waterway brings in billions of dollars

'a year to the economy.'

'Some locals say this isn't a city that happens to have a canal,

'it's a canal that happens to have a city.'

So, my journey across Panama is nearly complete

and I've ended up here in the Canal on the Pacific side.

This, inevitably, is very much the future of this county,

not least because expansion promises the prospect

of mega cruise liners docking here.

Panama is used to the world coming here as a trading hub

and the next precious cargo will be tourists.

'Nobody wants to miss the boat

'but mass tourism does present a big challenge for countries like Panama.

'Will the unspoilt wilderness where Cesar teaches his disciples

'the ropes really be able to handle a huge influx of travellers?

'Similarly, the tranquil shores

and beaches along the country's Caribbean coastline.

'On my trip from Atlantic to Pacific Oceans across this country,

'I got the impression people here won't welcome

'their pace of life being drastically disrupted.'

I would suggest enjoying their hospitality

sooner rather than later,

before Panamania sets in.

I'm the Doctor.

I've lived for over 2,000 years.

I've made many mistakes.

And it's about time that I did something about that.

Where are we going?

Into darkness.

Am I a good man?

I...don't know.