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just a few miles from a city of more than 200,000 people. | 0:00:02 | 0:00:06 | |
But there's hardly anyone else here. | 0:00:06 | 0:00:09 | |
The secret is you have to walk to get here. | 0:00:09 | 0:00:14 | |
Are you ready? | 0:00:15 | 0:00:18 | |
Absolutely stunning, isn't it. | 0:01:02 | 0:01:04 | |
This is Three Cliffs Bay on Gower's south coast. | 0:01:04 | 0:01:08 | |
Spend a few hours here and you'll understand why, back in 1956, | 0:01:08 | 0:01:12 | |
it became Britain's first designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. | 0:01:12 | 0:01:18 | |
'From Langland Bay to Worm's Head, this entire coastline is gorgeous. | 0:01:23 | 0:01:28 | |
'And today, we'll be going to one of Gower's hidden bays.' | 0:01:28 | 0:01:32 | |
For our first walk, though, we're heading west to Pembrokeshire. | 0:01:33 | 0:01:37 | |
Not along the coastal path, no, we're going inland and uphill | 0:01:37 | 0:01:42 | |
to the highest point on the Preseli hills, Bluestone country. | 0:01:42 | 0:01:47 | |
'Think of Pembrokeshire and what probably springs to mind | 0:01:47 | 0:01:51 | |
'are beautiful beaches and craggy cliffs. | 0:01:51 | 0:01:53 | |
'But up here in the Preseli hills there's a quite different landscape. | 0:01:53 | 0:01:58 | |
'A wonderfully wild and windswept place | 0:01:58 | 0:02:01 | |
'steeped in the ancient history of standing stones and tomb builders.' | 0:02:01 | 0:02:06 | |
Our walk today starts in the village of Maenclochog, | 0:02:06 | 0:02:09 | |
which means "stones sounding like a bell", | 0:02:09 | 0:02:12 | |
thanks to two rocks near the church which, apparently, when struck | 0:02:12 | 0:02:16 | |
-made a ringing sound. -CHURCH BELL | 0:02:16 | 0:02:19 | |
The church also has a connection with my guide today. | 0:02:19 | 0:02:22 | |
Becky Davies, the vicar of Maenclochog. | 0:02:22 | 0:02:26 | |
'Originally from London, Becky trained as a classical musician | 0:02:26 | 0:02:30 | |
'before becoming a vicar and moving to Maenclochog four years ago. | 0:02:30 | 0:02:34 | |
'Despite, or perhaps because of, her city upbringing | 0:02:34 | 0:02:38 | |
'she loves the place's character and is fascinated by its history.' | 0:02:38 | 0:02:42 | |
-KNOCKS ON DOOR -Hello, Becky! Shw mae? | 0:02:42 | 0:02:45 | |
Yn iawn, diolch. A chi? | 0:02:45 | 0:02:47 | |
-Da iawn. Nice to meet you. -And you. | 0:02:47 | 0:02:49 | |
Listen, I'm sorry about the weather, but have faith, it'll brighten up. | 0:02:49 | 0:02:53 | |
-I hope so. -Which way are we going? | 0:02:53 | 0:02:55 | |
-Up by there. -OK. | 0:02:55 | 0:02:57 | |
'Just six miles inland from Pembrokeshire's north coast, | 0:02:58 | 0:03:01 | |
'this is a walk of contrasts. | 0:03:01 | 0:03:03 | |
'It starts off nice and easy, | 0:03:03 | 0:03:05 | |
'along boardwalks and through a forest, | 0:03:05 | 0:03:08 | |
'then climbs up a broad ridge to the summit of Foel Cwmcerwyn. | 0:03:08 | 0:03:12 | |
'Then it's downhill most of the way, | 0:03:12 | 0:03:14 | |
'joining the ancient Golden Road path and a forestry trail | 0:03:14 | 0:03:18 | |
'to the old slate quarrying village of Rosebush | 0:03:18 | 0:03:21 | |
'and finally, back to Maenclochog. | 0:03:21 | 0:03:24 | |
'Unfortunately, the ringing stones that gave Maenclochog its name | 0:03:28 | 0:03:31 | |
'are no longer here, long-since used for another purpose or destroyed. | 0:03:31 | 0:03:37 | |
'But glance at an OS map of the area | 0:03:37 | 0:03:39 | |
'and you'll see more standing stones and burial chambers | 0:03:39 | 0:03:43 | |
'dotted around the place than you could shake a Celtic cross at!' | 0:03:43 | 0:03:47 | |
I can see two stones standing in this field, here. | 0:03:49 | 0:03:52 | |
-Anything significant about these? -You'd have to ask experts. | 0:03:52 | 0:03:55 | |
I'm just a vicar, but I reckon they probably go back | 0:03:55 | 0:03:58 | |
four or five thousand years to the ancient peoples that were here. | 0:03:58 | 0:04:02 | |
The whole of the Preseli mountain range acts as a big calculator, | 0:04:02 | 0:04:06 | |
so that you can tell when to plant your crops, | 0:04:06 | 0:04:09 | |
when to harvest, when to do a religious thing. | 0:04:09 | 0:04:12 | |
Archaeologists have discovered, up on Carn Menyn, | 0:04:12 | 0:04:15 | |
that a high proportion of stones, if you hit them ring like bells. | 0:04:15 | 0:04:19 | |
-They make a sound. -Like a metal bell. It doesn't sound like rock. | 0:04:19 | 0:04:22 | |
I could show you one at Pentre Ifan. | 0:04:22 | 0:04:25 | |
You can hit it and plays two notes with harmonics. | 0:04:25 | 0:04:28 | |
If you tap it with the palm of your hand, it sort of goes, "Dong" | 0:04:28 | 0:04:31 | |
instead of, "Phht". Stone should go, "Phht", but it doesn't. | 0:04:31 | 0:04:35 | |
Maybe these stones could help me forecast the weather. | 0:04:35 | 0:04:38 | |
It could tell you what season it was. You said it would get brighter. | 0:04:38 | 0:04:41 | |
Let's go and see if it does. | 0:04:41 | 0:04:44 | |
'Not so long ago, this path would've been impassable on days like today | 0:04:44 | 0:04:48 | |
'but thanks to Becky and friends, who persuaded the council to help, | 0:04:48 | 0:04:52 | |
'this is now a pleasant alternative to the busy road | 0:04:52 | 0:04:56 | |
'as a way to reach the hills.' | 0:04:56 | 0:04:58 | |
-Hello! -Hello! Moo! | 0:04:58 | 0:05:01 | |
Oh, we're going onto a boardwalk, now. | 0:05:04 | 0:05:06 | |
Yeah, this is part of opening it all up and making it accessible. | 0:05:06 | 0:05:09 | |
Before, you had to wade through here in your wellies. | 0:05:09 | 0:05:12 | |
If you look here, it's not proper solid ground. | 0:05:12 | 0:05:16 | |
It's a bit betwixt and between. | 0:05:16 | 0:05:18 | |
It's not water and it's not ground. It's a bog. | 0:05:18 | 0:05:21 | |
This has all been newly done so you don't sink. | 0:05:21 | 0:05:24 | |
And our feet will stay nice and dry. | 0:05:24 | 0:05:26 | |
'So what would've been a boggy path | 0:05:26 | 0:05:29 | |
'is now a delightful stroll through a glade | 0:05:29 | 0:05:32 | |
'that leads to an enchanting, mossy wood | 0:05:32 | 0:05:34 | |
'where a boardwalk gives way to a soft carpet of pine needles.' | 0:05:34 | 0:05:39 | |
Oh! Look at the mushrooms! | 0:05:41 | 0:05:43 | |
Here we are, out of the woods. | 0:05:53 | 0:05:55 | |
-Look, the rain has stopped. -Thank goodness. | 0:05:55 | 0:05:58 | |
Mind you, I wouldn't rule out a few showers later on. | 0:05:58 | 0:06:01 | |
No. Probably not. | 0:06:01 | 0:06:03 | |
-Where to from here? -We want to end up over there. | 0:06:03 | 0:06:07 | |
Foel Cwmcerwyn. This is where we turn left to go right. | 0:06:07 | 0:06:10 | |
Up here and then we take the ridge along to Foel Cwmcerwyn. | 0:06:10 | 0:06:14 | |
-Like that. We'll just pick up the path by here. -OK. | 0:06:14 | 0:06:17 | |
Hang on a minute. | 0:06:29 | 0:06:31 | |
SLAPPING | 0:06:31 | 0:06:33 | |
Can't hear a thing. | 0:06:33 | 0:06:36 | |
It's not a ringer. You'd know if it was. They make a funny noise. | 0:06:36 | 0:06:39 | |
-I could be a bit deaf. -No, you'd know. Really, you'd know. | 0:06:39 | 0:06:43 | |
Over another stile, onto a grassy track. | 0:06:45 | 0:06:49 | |
-That's it. -Does it go all the way to the top? | 0:06:49 | 0:06:51 | |
Yeah, it goes up to Foel Cwmcerwyn. | 0:06:51 | 0:06:54 | |
We've turned back on ourselves, we're going the way we want to go, | 0:06:55 | 0:06:59 | |
instead of against ourselves. | 0:06:59 | 0:07:01 | |
-It looks nice and easy. -It is. | 0:07:01 | 0:07:03 | |
Much easier than picking your way through gorse. | 0:07:03 | 0:07:06 | |
See on either side now we've got wimberry bushes. | 0:07:06 | 0:07:08 | |
A month or so ago, it would've been packed with them. | 0:07:08 | 0:07:12 | |
-I make muffins for my baby from them. -Wimberry muffins. -Yeah. | 0:07:12 | 0:07:15 | |
Just what you need on a day's walk. | 0:07:15 | 0:07:19 | |
-Is that the summit, there? -That's the top, Foel Cwmcerwyn. | 0:07:22 | 0:07:26 | |
-Hopefully we'll get some good views there. -I think we'll be lucky. | 0:07:26 | 0:07:30 | |
I think so. | 0:07:30 | 0:07:32 | |
'But if there's one place you're going to get wet in Pembrokeshire, | 0:07:32 | 0:07:35 | |
'it's on the first hill in the way of weather coming off the Atlantic!' | 0:07:35 | 0:07:42 | |
-It is very wet. -It's wet sock-making kind of terrain, isn't it? | 0:07:42 | 0:07:47 | |
Nearly there. | 0:07:51 | 0:07:53 | |
Hopefully that cloud will blow away. | 0:07:53 | 0:07:56 | |
'But for the moment, that's still wishful thinking. | 0:07:56 | 0:07:59 | |
-Well, we've finally made it. -Yey! | 0:08:00 | 0:08:03 | |
-The top of Foel Cwmcerwyn. -That's it. You got it. | 0:08:03 | 0:08:07 | |
-Fancy a cup of tea? -I'd love a cup of tea! I'd do anything for one! | 0:08:07 | 0:08:11 | |
Song: "5 Years Time" by Noah and the Whale | 0:08:13 | 0:08:16 | |
-Cup of tea, vicar? -Yes. Thank you. -Bet you get that all the time. | 0:08:19 | 0:08:23 | |
All the time! Always the same joke! | 0:08:23 | 0:08:26 | |
So we've seen bits of the view when the cloud has lifted. | 0:08:27 | 0:08:31 | |
What can you see through here? | 0:08:31 | 0:08:33 | |
When it clears, what you see in that direction is Foel Drygarn. | 0:08:33 | 0:08:37 | |
You've got a picture in your rucksack, I think. | 0:08:37 | 0:08:40 | |
Let's have a look at these pictures. | 0:08:40 | 0:08:42 | |
That's on the other end of the mountain. | 0:08:43 | 0:08:45 | |
It's Drygarn, it's got three cairns on the top of it. | 0:08:45 | 0:08:48 | |
That's a Celtic hill fort. | 0:08:48 | 0:08:51 | |
-What's this, here? -In the front, you've got Bedd Arthur. | 0:08:52 | 0:08:55 | |
Beyond that you've got Carn Menyn. It's all jaggeddy. | 0:08:55 | 0:08:59 | |
They're natural outcrops of rock, | 0:08:59 | 0:09:02 | |
that's where they took the Bluestones from. | 0:09:02 | 0:09:04 | |
You know you hit a rock and said, "Does it ring?", lots of them ring. | 0:09:04 | 0:09:08 | |
-Really? -Yes. That's where the ringing stones came from | 0:09:08 | 0:09:11 | |
and the stones probably for Stonehenge and all that jazz. | 0:09:11 | 0:09:15 | |
It's clearing again. | 0:09:17 | 0:09:18 | |
-Is it? -Yes. | 0:09:19 | 0:09:21 | |
# ..All down our necks and there'll be | 0:09:21 | 0:09:23 | |
# Sun, sun, sun | 0:09:23 | 0:09:25 | |
# All over our faces and sun, sun, sun.# | 0:09:25 | 0:09:28 | |
We've come down off the hill and it's getting a bit squelchy again. | 0:09:28 | 0:09:32 | |
Yes. The path has got worse even though the weather got better. | 0:09:32 | 0:09:35 | |
Actually, boggy places were special to the ancient peoples | 0:09:35 | 0:09:39 | |
because they're not quite land and they're not quite water. | 0:09:39 | 0:09:44 | |
They're sort of an in-betweeny and liminal place. | 0:09:44 | 0:09:47 | |
So it's like a land picture of a spiritual reality. | 0:09:47 | 0:09:52 | |
It's this world and the other world. | 0:09:52 | 0:09:56 | |
And the way you can see your reflection in it too. | 0:09:56 | 0:09:59 | |
So it's like your soul and you. | 0:09:59 | 0:10:02 | |
In old Welsh thinking, the whole of this mountain range was 'Annwn', | 0:10:02 | 0:10:07 | |
which is the Otherworld. | 0:10:07 | 0:10:08 | |
So it might be the Otherworld because it's got lots of bogs! | 0:10:08 | 0:10:12 | |
There's another one of those stones over here. | 0:10:18 | 0:10:21 | |
Just look at that though. | 0:10:22 | 0:10:24 | |
The colour difference on the side compared to this side here. | 0:10:24 | 0:10:27 | |
It's completely different, isn't it? | 0:10:27 | 0:10:29 | |
You can see why they called it bluestone. | 0:10:29 | 0:10:32 | |
Look how blue the fresh bit is compared to where you've got all the weather coming in. | 0:10:32 | 0:10:37 | |
If you take a bit of the blue stuff and polish it all night, | 0:10:37 | 0:10:40 | |
it goes navy blue and it ends up with little white bits in it | 0:10:40 | 0:10:43 | |
and it looks like the night sky. | 0:10:43 | 0:10:45 | |
So if you're going to build something like Stonehenge | 0:10:45 | 0:10:48 | |
to calculate what stars do and stuff, | 0:10:48 | 0:10:49 | |
that's a pretty apt thing to make it out of. | 0:10:49 | 0:10:52 | |
It really is very distinctive, the colour. | 0:10:52 | 0:10:55 | |
Pretty rare anyway. | 0:10:55 | 0:10:57 | |
We're on the Golden Road now, going through this little gate. | 0:11:07 | 0:11:11 | |
-The Golden Road. -Yes. -Why is it called that? | 0:11:11 | 0:11:15 | |
Because it's not just any old track way. | 0:11:15 | 0:11:17 | |
Look how far it goes in that direction, | 0:11:17 | 0:11:20 | |
and in the other direction it went all the way to the coast. | 0:11:20 | 0:11:23 | |
They traded salt and gold from the Wicklow Mountains in Ireland on it. | 0:11:23 | 0:11:26 | |
So which way are we going? This way or that way? | 0:11:26 | 0:11:29 | |
The road goes both ways but we're going that way | 0:11:29 | 0:11:32 | |
because we want to go to the pub, down to Rosebush to Tafarn Sinc. | 0:11:32 | 0:11:36 | |
-Tafarn Sinc, here we go. -Excellent. | 0:11:36 | 0:11:38 | |
'I shall have to come back another time | 0:11:38 | 0:11:41 | |
'to follow the Golden Road to the east for a closer look | 0:11:41 | 0:11:44 | |
'at the standing stones of Bedd Arthur | 0:11:44 | 0:11:47 | |
'and the burial cairns of Foel Drygarn. | 0:11:47 | 0:11:49 | |
'Now though, west is best for a short distance along the Golden Road | 0:11:49 | 0:11:54 | |
'before turning on to a forestry trail, | 0:11:54 | 0:11:56 | |
'leading down towards the old slate quarrying village of Rosebush.' | 0:11:56 | 0:12:00 | |
You can see why it was called Rosebush | 0:12:00 | 0:12:03 | |
because it's actually meant to be Rhos y Bwlch. | 0:12:03 | 0:12:07 | |
-Rhos y Bwlch. -Yes. Like where the pass is. | 0:12:07 | 0:12:11 | |
The head of where the pass is in the mountains. | 0:12:11 | 0:12:13 | |
I suppose in some ways if you're from Swindon | 0:12:13 | 0:12:17 | |
then it's easier to say Rosebush than, | 0:12:17 | 0:12:19 | |
"I'm off to Rhos y Bwlch for the weekend." | 0:12:19 | 0:12:22 | |
Yes! | 0:12:22 | 0:12:24 | |
The landscape has changed and so has the geology. | 0:12:24 | 0:12:28 | |
We've left the bluestones behind and now I can see slate. | 0:12:28 | 0:12:32 | |
That's quite unusual for this part of the country, isn't it? | 0:12:32 | 0:12:35 | |
It is really, because if you say 'slate' and 'Wales', | 0:12:35 | 0:12:38 | |
you often think of North Wales. | 0:12:38 | 0:12:39 | |
If we turn down this path here, we'll take you alongside the quarry then. | 0:12:39 | 0:12:44 | |
'It might not have been of the same quality as North Wales slate, | 0:12:44 | 0:12:47 | |
'but for a period around the 1860s, there was a wide demand | 0:12:47 | 0:12:52 | |
'for this slate because of its attractive colouring. | 0:12:52 | 0:12:55 | |
'But slate production finished here in 1891, | 0:12:55 | 0:12:59 | |
'70 years or so before the more famous North Wales quarries | 0:12:59 | 0:13:03 | |
'began to close.' | 0:13:03 | 0:13:05 | |
So here we are in Rosebush or Rhos y Bwlch in Welsh. | 0:13:06 | 0:13:10 | |
-That's it. -And a nice row of little houses here. | 0:13:10 | 0:13:14 | |
It's called The Terrace, | 0:13:14 | 0:13:15 | |
and it's where all the slate workers used to live | 0:13:15 | 0:13:18 | |
when the quarry was in operation. | 0:13:18 | 0:13:20 | |
It's still a thriving community. | 0:13:20 | 0:13:23 | |
What's this building here? | 0:13:23 | 0:13:25 | |
It used to be a post office and now it's a bistro and tea rooms. | 0:13:25 | 0:13:28 | |
Really good home cooking and things. Cracking curry! | 0:13:28 | 0:13:32 | |
'Built of Rosebush slate in 1870 for the local quarry master, | 0:13:32 | 0:13:36 | |
'the old post office is now Pembrokeshire's highest restaurant.' | 0:13:36 | 0:13:41 | |
-Thank you vicar! -You're welcome. -So this is Tafarn Sinc? | 0:13:41 | 0:13:45 | |
It is and it used to be the Station Hotel. | 0:13:45 | 0:13:48 | |
As you can see, we're in a station. | 0:13:48 | 0:13:51 | |
Yes. There's a platform here, a railway line, | 0:13:51 | 0:13:54 | |
and they've even got models of people | 0:13:54 | 0:13:56 | |
who look like they're frozen in time. | 0:13:56 | 0:14:00 | |
You can even hear the sound of a steam train in the distance. | 0:14:00 | 0:14:03 | |
I think it's coming from that little shed. | 0:14:03 | 0:14:05 | |
-Do you want to go in and have a look inside? -Yes. | 0:14:05 | 0:14:09 | |
-Can you see all the crinkliness of the walls? -Yes. | 0:14:10 | 0:14:13 | |
It's corrugated iron. That's why it's called Tafarn Sinc, as in zinc. | 0:14:13 | 0:14:17 | |
It makes sense! | 0:14:17 | 0:14:19 | |
'A quirky corrugated crimson shed, | 0:14:19 | 0:14:22 | |
'Tafarn Sinc is not in fact unique in this part of Pembrokeshire. | 0:14:22 | 0:14:26 | |
'But these distinctive tin buildings, | 0:14:26 | 0:14:29 | |
'built towards the end of the 19th Century, are rapidly disappearing, | 0:14:29 | 0:14:33 | |
'though they have a charm and character well worth preserving.' | 0:14:33 | 0:14:37 | |
It's amazing, isn't it? | 0:14:37 | 0:14:39 | |
-Look, Jamie's left his long johns here! -Yes! | 0:14:39 | 0:14:42 | |
There's all sorts of things if you look carefully | 0:14:42 | 0:14:45 | |
all over the ceiling and all over the walls. | 0:14:45 | 0:14:47 | |
-And sawdust on the floor. -Lots of sawdust. -Yep. | 0:14:47 | 0:14:50 | |
'This is what many modern theme pubs aspire to but don't quite pull off. | 0:14:50 | 0:14:56 | |
'Tafarn Sinc feels really authentic and homely | 0:14:56 | 0:14:59 | |
'with lots of original photographs and random old artefacts, | 0:14:59 | 0:15:04 | |
'including a 12-year-old ham. | 0:15:04 | 0:15:06 | |
'And by all accounts, | 0:15:06 | 0:15:07 | |
'it's a brilliant place for a good old fashioned sing song.' | 0:15:07 | 0:15:12 | |
-Shall we have a quick drink before we head back to Maenclochog? -Yes. | 0:15:14 | 0:15:19 | |
Diolch yn fawr. | 0:15:20 | 0:15:22 | |
-Cheers! -Iechyd Da! | 0:15:22 | 0:15:24 | |
Mae'n flasus iawn. Bendigedig! | 0:15:28 | 0:15:30 | |
-So where to next? -Back home to the vicarage. | 0:15:31 | 0:15:34 | |
We'll go back down along the path we came up this morning. | 0:15:34 | 0:15:38 | |
-I've got to say, that was a fantastic walk. -You're welcome. | 0:15:38 | 0:15:41 | |
Thanks very much. | 0:15:41 | 0:15:43 | |
Lots of history, wonderful views and real Pembrokeshire weather! | 0:15:43 | 0:15:47 | |
You can't beat it! | 0:15:47 | 0:15:49 | |
'If you fancy trying one of our walks from the series, | 0:15:51 | 0:15:54 | |
'go to bbc.co.uk/wales | 0:15:54 | 0:15:58 | |
'and take a look at our interactive Weatherman Walking website. | 0:15:58 | 0:16:02 | |
'It has everything you need, | 0:16:02 | 0:16:04 | |
'from detailed route information for each walk, | 0:16:04 | 0:16:07 | |
'as well as photos that we took, | 0:16:07 | 0:16:10 | |
'and walking maps for you to print off and follow. | 0:16:10 | 0:16:13 | |
'For the next walk in this programme, | 0:16:13 | 0:16:15 | |
'we head for Gower's south coast for a varied walk | 0:16:15 | 0:16:18 | |
'along cliff tops, beaches and a wooded valley.' | 0:16:18 | 0:16:21 | |
This is the coastal path that goes from Mumbles to Langland | 0:16:22 | 0:16:26 | |
and on to here, Caswell Bay. | 0:16:26 | 0:16:28 | |
A lovely walk. It's very accessible and very popular. | 0:16:28 | 0:16:32 | |
But we're going to go slightly off the beaten track | 0:16:32 | 0:16:35 | |
to find a hidden gem of a walk | 0:16:35 | 0:16:37 | |
that starts here at Caswell and goes that-a-way. | 0:16:37 | 0:16:41 | |
'To show me the way and tell me what's special about this area | 0:16:44 | 0:16:47 | |
'is National Trust warden, Sarah Stevens. | 0:16:47 | 0:16:50 | |
'Sarah has been warden here on Gower for eight years. | 0:16:50 | 0:16:54 | |
'She loves the outdoors and when she went on a National Trust holiday as a youngster, | 0:16:54 | 0:17:00 | |
'thought the wardens had a cool job and would like to do it herself. | 0:17:00 | 0:17:03 | |
'And now she does! | 0:17:03 | 0:17:05 | |
'Caswell Bay, the start of our walk, | 0:17:06 | 0:17:10 | |
'is a very popular award-winning Blue Flag beach | 0:17:10 | 0:17:13 | |
'with plenty of sand, waves to surf | 0:17:13 | 0:17:16 | |
'and rock pools to explore at low tide.' | 0:17:16 | 0:17:19 | |
I know we're not taking that path which goes to Mumbles, | 0:17:21 | 0:17:24 | |
so which way are we going today? | 0:17:24 | 0:17:27 | |
The tide's out so we can start along the beach and join the path. | 0:17:27 | 0:17:31 | |
If the tide was in, we'd need to go along the road. | 0:17:31 | 0:17:34 | |
'Just a few miles west of Swansea on Gower's south coast, | 0:17:34 | 0:17:38 | |
'our walk takes us from the beach at Caswell Bay | 0:17:38 | 0:17:41 | |
'up on to the cliff top path to Brandy Cove and Pwlldu Bay. | 0:17:41 | 0:17:45 | |
'Then it's a short sharp climb up on to Pwlldu Head | 0:17:45 | 0:17:49 | |
'and on to Pennard Cliffs. | 0:17:49 | 0:17:51 | |
'Turning inland, we drop down into the wooded Bishopston Valley, | 0:17:51 | 0:17:55 | |
'then return to join the path at Brandy Cove and back to Caswell.' | 0:17:55 | 0:18:00 | |
I can see there's a lifeguard station on the beach, keeping an eye on the surfers and swimmers. | 0:18:00 | 0:18:05 | |
It's so busy, it's good to have them here so they can help keep you safe | 0:18:05 | 0:18:09 | |
-through the summer months. -Not many surfers in today. | 0:18:09 | 0:18:12 | |
It's pretty flat. | 0:18:12 | 0:18:14 | |
Not good surfing but maybe if you're brave enough to swim. | 0:18:14 | 0:18:17 | |
'The flat bit of the walk doesn't last long, | 0:18:17 | 0:18:20 | |
'as we now head for a short climb up steep and narrow steps | 0:18:20 | 0:18:24 | |
'somewhere here in the corner of the bay.' | 0:18:24 | 0:18:26 | |
Brandy Cove, that's an interesting name. | 0:18:26 | 0:18:29 | |
Yes, we'll be going there. It's one of our stops on the way. | 0:18:29 | 0:18:33 | |
Has it got anything to do with alcohol? | 0:18:33 | 0:18:36 | |
-Oh yes! -Really? -Yep. | 0:18:36 | 0:18:38 | |
Path's a bit narrow in places, isn't it? | 0:18:40 | 0:18:42 | |
It is a bit, but if you just look where you're walking | 0:18:42 | 0:18:45 | |
and take your time, it's fine. Just take advantage of the great views. | 0:18:45 | 0:18:49 | |
-And a big drop down there! -Oh yes! | 0:18:49 | 0:18:51 | |
'Fortunately, that's the biggest drop out of the way. | 0:18:52 | 0:18:56 | |
'From here on, the path is very safe. | 0:18:56 | 0:18:58 | |
'But I wouldn't recommend flip flops for this walk | 0:18:58 | 0:19:02 | |
'and I'd stay off the brandy as well!' | 0:19:02 | 0:19:04 | |
So this is Brandy Cove. | 0:19:05 | 0:19:07 | |
Yes. It used to be called Herslake Cove but it got renamed Brandy Cove | 0:19:07 | 0:19:11 | |
because of its connections with smuggling. | 0:19:11 | 0:19:14 | |
It's a narrow cove so they could get the boats in | 0:19:14 | 0:19:16 | |
and take off the tobacco and the alcohol. | 0:19:16 | 0:19:18 | |
Then it was all dispersed amongst the villagers and further afield. | 0:19:18 | 0:19:22 | |
So it got renamed Brandy Cove. | 0:19:22 | 0:19:24 | |
They also used to bring small boats in to load lead ore from the mine down there. | 0:19:24 | 0:19:28 | |
-Let's take a look. -Let's go this way. | 0:19:28 | 0:19:30 | |
# All you hardy miners help us sing this song.# | 0:19:30 | 0:19:35 | |
-This is the old silver-lead mine. -Yes, one of them. | 0:19:35 | 0:19:40 | |
There were a few in this area. | 0:19:40 | 0:19:42 | |
Worked in about the 1700s and 1800s for silver-lead. | 0:19:42 | 0:19:45 | |
Not necessarily extensively worked. | 0:19:45 | 0:19:47 | |
Maybe not too much ore there to make it worthwhile. | 0:19:47 | 0:19:50 | |
-I wouldn't want to go in there. -It's a bit dark, cold and narrow. | 0:19:50 | 0:19:54 | |
-I don't want to go in either! -Let's carry on then. | 0:19:54 | 0:19:56 | |
# A lovely day, lovely day Lovely day, lovely day.# | 0:19:56 | 0:20:02 | |
Lovely day. | 0:20:02 | 0:20:03 | |
Another amazing view, Sarah. | 0:20:13 | 0:20:16 | |
Yes. The sandy bay along there, that's Pwlldu Bay, where we're heading to. | 0:20:16 | 0:20:20 | |
-It's beautiful, isn't it? -It is, and we're so lucky with the weather. | 0:20:20 | 0:20:23 | |
So this is Pwlldu, which means 'black pool'. | 0:20:30 | 0:20:34 | |
Yes. The river that comes through here is called Bishopston Pill. | 0:20:34 | 0:20:38 | |
It quite often runs beneath the shingle bank, | 0:20:38 | 0:20:40 | |
but due to recent heavy rain falls it's burst through the shingle bank | 0:20:40 | 0:20:44 | |
and formed what we can see now. | 0:20:44 | 0:20:46 | |
A few high tides and that will push the shingle bank back up again. | 0:20:46 | 0:20:51 | |
So if I came here another time, it could look different. | 0:20:51 | 0:20:54 | |
Definitely, yes. | 0:20:54 | 0:20:55 | |
Shall we see if we can cross over and keep our feet dry? | 0:20:55 | 0:20:58 | |
Yes. After you! | 0:20:58 | 0:21:00 | |
Here we go! | 0:21:03 | 0:21:05 | |
-You didn't get your feet wet! -No, not quite! | 0:21:10 | 0:21:13 | |
'It really is hard to believe that this secluded bay | 0:21:14 | 0:21:17 | |
'is literally just down the road from the city of Swansea. | 0:21:17 | 0:21:21 | |
'It just needs a little bit of effort to get here.' | 0:21:21 | 0:21:24 | |
-This is a beautiful little cove. -Yes. | 0:21:24 | 0:21:26 | |
But at one time, it used to be very busy with shipping. | 0:21:26 | 0:21:32 | |
Yes. The limestone quarrying was quite big business here. | 0:21:32 | 0:21:35 | |
The ships would come in on high water, get rid of their ballast, | 0:21:35 | 0:21:38 | |
which formed this shingle bank. | 0:21:38 | 0:21:40 | |
They would have anchored up at Ring Rock over there. | 0:21:40 | 0:21:43 | |
At low water, the rocks would have been slid down, | 0:21:43 | 0:21:46 | |
loaded on to the ships and next high water, | 0:21:46 | 0:21:49 | |
the boats would have returned to Devon and Cornwall. | 0:21:49 | 0:21:52 | |
So 150 years ago, this place was really busy | 0:21:52 | 0:21:55 | |
with ships coming and going and lots of people as well. | 0:21:55 | 0:21:58 | |
There were possibly 200 people employed here | 0:21:58 | 0:22:01 | |
and it was the last quarry to close on Gower in 1902. | 0:22:01 | 0:22:03 | |
It's hard to believe it now because it's so quiet here. | 0:22:03 | 0:22:07 | |
Just how I like it. | 0:22:07 | 0:22:08 | |
'Behind the pebble bank are two houses that were once pubs. | 0:22:10 | 0:22:14 | |
'At the height of the quarrying, | 0:22:14 | 0:22:16 | |
'there were actually five pubs in the bay. | 0:22:16 | 0:22:18 | |
'Enough for the quarrymen to go on a pub crawl. | 0:22:18 | 0:22:21 | |
'Ship Cottage, built in the 1600s, was called The Ship Inn, | 0:22:21 | 0:22:25 | |
'and Beaufort House was The Beaufort Arms.' | 0:22:25 | 0:22:29 | |
So all this is National Trust land and Bishopston Valley is that way. | 0:22:30 | 0:22:36 | |
Yes, we're coming into National Trust land now | 0:22:36 | 0:22:38 | |
and we'll be going through Bishopston Valley later. | 0:22:38 | 0:22:41 | |
But first, Pwlldu Head. | 0:22:41 | 0:22:43 | |
'It's a bit of a steep pull on to the headland, the highest on Gower, | 0:22:44 | 0:22:48 | |
'but it's really worth the effort.' | 0:22:48 | 0:22:50 | |
-Well, Sarah, what an amazing view! -It's pretty cool, isn't it? | 0:22:51 | 0:22:55 | |
We started in Caswell over there | 0:22:55 | 0:22:57 | |
and we followed the coast path down to Pwlldu Bay. | 0:22:57 | 0:23:01 | |
-Look how much the tide's come in. -We haven't walked that quickly. | 0:23:01 | 0:23:04 | |
We haven't! | 0:23:04 | 0:23:07 | |
'Just below the headland, there's a grassy gully called Grave's End, | 0:23:08 | 0:23:13 | |
'with a circle of limestone rocks | 0:23:13 | 0:23:15 | |
'that indicate the last resting place of some 68 unfortunate souls.' | 0:23:15 | 0:23:20 | |
There was a ship called Caesar in 1760 | 0:23:20 | 0:23:23 | |
that was wrecked just off the headland here. | 0:23:23 | 0:23:27 | |
People were battened down below decks, | 0:23:27 | 0:23:29 | |
press-ganged into service for the Navy. | 0:23:29 | 0:23:32 | |
They didn't survive the wreck. The crew supposedly did. | 0:23:32 | 0:23:36 | |
The local villagers then buried the dead in that area there. | 0:23:36 | 0:23:40 | |
-A bit of a sad story. -It is. | 0:23:40 | 0:23:42 | |
'As we reach the top of the dramatic limestone cliffs at High Pennard, | 0:23:45 | 0:23:49 | |
'formed a mere 400 million years ago, | 0:23:49 | 0:23:52 | |
'it's now time to turn inland for a complete change of scenery.' | 0:23:52 | 0:23:57 | |
So where are we going now then? | 0:23:58 | 0:24:00 | |
The woodland called Bishopston Valley. | 0:24:00 | 0:24:03 | |
It looks a bit dark down there. | 0:24:05 | 0:24:06 | |
It is in places. I'll look after you! | 0:24:06 | 0:24:09 | |
Look at this, Sarah. | 0:24:15 | 0:24:17 | |
I haven't seen a fungus this big before. | 0:24:17 | 0:24:20 | |
It's bracket fungus. Quite common on big trees. | 0:24:20 | 0:24:23 | |
As you can see, this tree has naturally fallen here | 0:24:23 | 0:24:26 | |
and we've done nothing other than cut the access through it. | 0:24:26 | 0:24:29 | |
It's not a commercially run woodland so when trees fall | 0:24:29 | 0:24:32 | |
we let the insects get on there, fungus grow on there | 0:24:32 | 0:24:36 | |
and put all the nutrients back into the ground | 0:24:36 | 0:24:39 | |
and just cut our way through. | 0:24:39 | 0:24:40 | |
Does the river ever dry up at all? | 0:24:52 | 0:24:54 | |
No, there's always some here, | 0:24:54 | 0:24:56 | |
but further up, we'll lose it underground. | 0:24:56 | 0:24:58 | |
This area here is a bit of a surprise. | 0:25:02 | 0:25:04 | |
I was expecting just to walk through the valley surrounded by trees | 0:25:04 | 0:25:09 | |
and we've got this beautiful, grassy meadow. | 0:25:09 | 0:25:11 | |
Hundreds of years ago there would have been far fewer trees here. | 0:25:11 | 0:25:15 | |
There's an Iron Age fort. | 0:25:15 | 0:25:17 | |
They wouldn't have built that amongst trees. | 0:25:17 | 0:25:19 | |
They would have opened these areas up for grazing. | 0:25:19 | 0:25:22 | |
We try and maintain these meadows, we don't want to lose the grassland. | 0:25:22 | 0:25:26 | |
When the cattle aren't grazing enough for us, | 0:25:26 | 0:25:29 | |
if there's trees encroaching, we'll clear them back. | 0:25:29 | 0:25:32 | |
Derek, this area is known as resurgence. | 0:25:39 | 0:25:42 | |
That means the river reappears here having disappeared under the ground | 0:25:42 | 0:25:47 | |
further up stream. | 0:25:47 | 0:25:49 | |
We've seen a lot of the water today and from here it reappears | 0:25:49 | 0:25:52 | |
all the way down to Pwlldu Bay. | 0:25:52 | 0:25:54 | |
From here on, it flows underground from its source. | 0:25:54 | 0:25:58 | |
We're actually walking on the riverbed at the moment. | 0:26:05 | 0:26:08 | |
-The river is flowing underneath us? -Yes, at the moment. | 0:26:08 | 0:26:11 | |
'I'm about to see where this river's gone at a place called Guzzle Hole.' | 0:26:11 | 0:26:17 | |
It's a great name because you can hear the water guzzling. | 0:26:17 | 0:26:21 | |
Yes. Here is one of the few places that we can see the river | 0:26:21 | 0:26:25 | |
running underground and it reappears at the resurgence we saw earlier. | 0:26:25 | 0:26:30 | |
Is it safe to come in here? | 0:26:30 | 0:26:31 | |
If we're careful and take our time we should be OK. | 0:26:31 | 0:26:34 | |
This is as far as we'll go. | 0:26:34 | 0:26:36 | |
You can see the water coming in and then disappearing again. | 0:26:36 | 0:26:41 | |
What I really like is the ceiling, | 0:26:41 | 0:26:43 | |
the way the water has cut through the rocks, carved its way through. | 0:26:43 | 0:26:48 | |
It's absolutely amazing. I never get bored in coming here. Stunning. | 0:26:48 | 0:26:52 | |
I suppose we'd better head off to the next place. | 0:26:52 | 0:26:55 | |
My knees are seizing up! | 0:26:55 | 0:26:57 | |
I just want to show you Long Ash Mine, | 0:27:01 | 0:27:03 | |
-an old silver lead mine. -Like the one we saw in Brandy Cove? | 0:27:03 | 0:27:06 | |
Yes. Possibly worked in roughly the same time. | 0:27:06 | 0:27:10 | |
There's no evidence of a spoil heap here | 0:27:10 | 0:27:13 | |
so we don't think it was extensively worked. | 0:27:13 | 0:27:15 | |
Probably flooded quite often. | 0:27:15 | 0:27:17 | |
There's a big padlock here to keep people out. | 0:27:17 | 0:27:19 | |
It's quite dangerous in there but we know bats roost in there. | 0:27:19 | 0:27:23 | |
-Bats? -Greater horseshoe bats and lesser horseshoe bats roost there, | 0:27:23 | 0:27:28 | |
possibly others too, and that's why the grills are horizontal | 0:27:28 | 0:27:31 | |
-so they can fly in and out. -That's clever. | 0:27:31 | 0:27:34 | |
This is where we branch off from the riverbed and leave the valley. | 0:27:34 | 0:27:38 | |
What? All the way up there? It's a bit steep, isn't it. | 0:27:38 | 0:27:42 | |
Well, we've got to get out of the valley somehow. | 0:27:42 | 0:27:45 | |
I'll hold on to your rucksack. | 0:27:45 | 0:27:47 | |
We're back into the daylight again. | 0:27:53 | 0:27:55 | |
-Yep, sure are. -What a difference. | 0:27:55 | 0:27:58 | |
I didn't realise we'd climbed so high. | 0:28:01 | 0:28:04 | |
Look at the view across the treetops. | 0:28:04 | 0:28:07 | |
Not long ago we were down at the bottom of the valley, | 0:28:07 | 0:28:09 | |
hidden amongst all those trees down there. | 0:28:09 | 0:28:12 | |
It's very secluded down there and yet so close to so many people. | 0:28:12 | 0:28:16 | |
Thanks very much, Sarah, for a fascinating and interesting walk. | 0:28:16 | 0:28:20 | |
It's made me realise I must come back to Gower more often in future. | 0:28:20 | 0:28:25 | |
-It's lovely. -Be good to see you again. | 0:28:25 | 0:28:27 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:28:34 | 0:28:36 | |
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