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Great spot, isn't it? But you don't have to travel as far as the Brecon Beacons or the hills of Snowdonia | 0:00:02 | 0:00:07 | |
to enjoy wonderful views like this. | 0:00:07 | 0:00:09 | |
No, in the quiet backwaters and the old industrial areas | 0:00:09 | 0:00:13 | |
you'll find the hidden tracks and the less trodden paths. | 0:00:13 | 0:00:17 | |
Here in Wales, whichever you choose, wherever you are, | 0:00:17 | 0:00:21 | |
you're never far from a wonderful walk. | 0:00:21 | 0:00:23 | |
Are you ready? | 0:00:23 | 0:00:26 | |
In this programme we have two walks, | 0:01:10 | 0:01:13 | |
one in a beautiful unspoilt corner of southern Snowdonia, | 0:01:13 | 0:01:17 | |
with a sunny valley in the foothills of Cadair Idris. | 0:01:17 | 0:01:20 | |
The other walk is here, | 0:01:21 | 0:01:23 | |
a much greener place than it used to be years ago when coal was king, | 0:01:23 | 0:01:27 | |
at the very top of the Rhondda Valley. | 0:01:27 | 0:01:30 | |
My guide for this walk is Kerry Reece, who lives just over the mountain in the Rhondda Fach. | 0:01:30 | 0:01:37 | |
She's passionate about the outdoors and, as a youth worker and assessor for the Duke of Edinburgh Awards, | 0:01:37 | 0:01:43 | |
she encourages youngsters to discover the wonderful world of waterproofs and woolly hats. | 0:01:43 | 0:01:50 | |
This is a classic South Wales Valleys walk. | 0:01:54 | 0:01:57 | |
Starting from the Forestry Commission car park in Blaencwm, | 0:01:57 | 0:02:00 | |
it takes us up past Pen Pych waterfall | 0:02:00 | 0:02:03 | |
and on to the iconic flat top summit. | 0:02:03 | 0:02:06 | |
Then we head to the source of the River Rhondda, | 0:02:06 | 0:02:10 | |
before crossing the head of the valley down to Blaenrhondda | 0:02:10 | 0:02:13 | |
and back to our starting point. | 0:02:13 | 0:02:14 | |
'Surrounded by steep forested hillsides on a crystal clear early autumn morning, | 0:02:19 | 0:02:24 | |
'this could almost be in the Alps. | 0:02:24 | 0:02:26 | |
'Well, if you squint a bit.' | 0:02:26 | 0:02:28 | |
-What a cracking day. -It's marvellous. | 0:02:28 | 0:02:31 | |
'Thanks to the way the terraced houses were built here, | 0:02:38 | 0:02:41 | |
'in long streets along the valley floor, | 0:02:41 | 0:02:43 | |
'just about everyone has a hill and a walk in their backyard. | 0:02:43 | 0:02:47 | |
'And if you happen to live further afield, Cardiff, Newport or Swansea, | 0:02:47 | 0:02:51 | |
'you could still be here in under an hour. | 0:02:51 | 0:02:55 | |
'These deep valleys were gouged out by glaciers during the last Ice Age | 0:02:56 | 0:03:01 | |
'more than 10,000 years ago. | 0:03:01 | 0:03:03 | |
'When these slow-moving rivers of ice melted, they left behind | 0:03:03 | 0:03:07 | |
'the steep valley sides that make this great waterfall country.' | 0:03:07 | 0:03:11 | |
-Is that the sound of running water I can hear in the distance? -It is. | 0:03:11 | 0:03:15 | |
-Oh, wow! Another waterfall! -I know, it's amazing, isn't it? | 0:03:26 | 0:03:29 | |
-And it's bigger and better than the last one. -That's right. | 0:03:29 | 0:03:32 | |
-Are we going to get any closer? -We can get underneath it if we wish. | 0:03:32 | 0:03:35 | |
When you're down in the car park looking up at Pen Pych | 0:03:38 | 0:03:41 | |
it looks very steep, | 0:03:41 | 0:03:43 | |
but it's relatively straightforward walking up here. | 0:03:43 | 0:03:46 | |
It's been enhanced really by Groundwork Trust | 0:03:46 | 0:03:49 | |
to create an accessible path up to the waterfall | 0:03:49 | 0:03:53 | |
by putting in these slabs of steps. | 0:03:53 | 0:03:56 | |
A little bit of care if it's wet, but that's fine. | 0:03:56 | 0:03:59 | |
-Well, we're getting closer now. -Yes, we are. | 0:04:01 | 0:04:04 | |
And this is a good time of year for waterfalls | 0:04:04 | 0:04:07 | |
because October is one of the wettest months of the year in Wales. | 0:04:07 | 0:04:10 | |
'And, with blue skies and sunshine after a day of torrential rain, | 0:04:10 | 0:04:15 | |
'we're seeing these waterfalls at their very best.' | 0:04:15 | 0:04:18 | |
It's amazing, isn't it? Just look at all that water cascading down. | 0:04:18 | 0:04:22 | |
-And, look, there's even a rainbow for you! -Lovely! | 0:04:22 | 0:04:25 | |
And only half an hour journey, wasn't it, from the car park? | 0:04:26 | 0:04:29 | |
-That's right, no time at all to walk up here. -That's right. | 0:04:29 | 0:04:32 | |
'To reach the best valley viewpoints, | 0:04:32 | 0:04:35 | |
'we now bear right and up to the edge of the flat-topped Pen Pych.' | 0:04:35 | 0:04:41 | |
The clouds are coming over a bit there. | 0:04:41 | 0:04:44 | |
Yeah, they're called cumulus clouds, Kerry, and, you know what? | 0:04:44 | 0:04:47 | |
I wouldn't rule out the odd shower later on. | 0:04:47 | 0:04:50 | |
'But for now it's still bright and clear and we have | 0:04:50 | 0:04:54 | |
'great views down to the former coal mining community of Blaencwm. | 0:04:54 | 0:04:57 | |
'Today, with few obvious signs of that industry, | 0:04:57 | 0:05:00 | |
'it's hard to believe that at its peak | 0:05:00 | 0:05:03 | |
'there were about 66 mines in the Rhondda | 0:05:03 | 0:05:06 | |
'and it was the most intensely mined area in Britain, maybe the world.' | 0:05:06 | 0:05:12 | |
Where we're looking now, at the end of Blaencwm, | 0:05:12 | 0:05:14 | |
used to be Blaenrhondda colliery | 0:05:14 | 0:05:16 | |
and, just below us over there, Tydraw colliery, | 0:05:16 | 0:05:19 | |
and there used to be a railway line | 0:05:19 | 0:05:21 | |
which ran all the way past Blaencwm there, you can just see the track, | 0:05:21 | 0:05:25 | |
and it used to go straight into the mountain there, | 0:05:25 | 0:05:28 | |
into the tunnel that used to go all the way under the mountain | 0:05:28 | 0:05:32 | |
to Blaengwnfi, the Afan Valley. | 0:05:32 | 0:05:34 | |
-How long was the tunnel? -Ooh... Over 3,300 yards. | 0:05:34 | 0:05:39 | |
It was the seventh longest railway tunnel in Britain I think at the time | 0:05:39 | 0:05:43 | |
and they approached it from either end, they didn't have any technology, | 0:05:43 | 0:05:46 | |
but from either end they dug, from the Blaengwnfi end and from the Blaencwm end, and met in the middle. | 0:05:46 | 0:05:51 | |
Apparently there's a little kink. | 0:05:51 | 0:05:53 | |
Do you think they'll ever open up the tunnel again? | 0:05:53 | 0:05:56 | |
Maybe they could open it as a cycle lane from Treherbert to Swansea. | 0:05:56 | 0:06:00 | |
It would be a good idea, because it's just either end that's blocked up, | 0:06:00 | 0:06:03 | |
so it wouldn't take too much effort to open it up again. | 0:06:03 | 0:06:06 | |
'A two-mile-long cycle ride through a mountain. | 0:06:06 | 0:06:09 | |
'It gets my vote. | 0:06:09 | 0:06:11 | |
'As we approach the summit viewpoint, | 0:06:13 | 0:06:15 | |
'we can see a football-club banner | 0:06:15 | 0:06:18 | |
'placed there as a poignant memorial to a young local lad, | 0:06:18 | 0:06:22 | |
'a keen Man United supporter tragically killed in a skateboard accident.' | 0:06:22 | 0:06:27 | |
This really is the classic view of the Rhondda Valley, | 0:06:32 | 0:06:35 | |
with the streets and the rows and rows of terraced houses. | 0:06:35 | 0:06:38 | |
Each community blends into another. | 0:06:38 | 0:06:40 | |
Yes, and yet each is distinct in its own way. | 0:06:40 | 0:06:43 | |
People who live there will be very keen to tell you | 0:06:43 | 0:06:46 | |
exactly where they're from. | 0:06:46 | 0:06:48 | |
It's a good place to come up and watch the world go by. | 0:06:48 | 0:06:51 | |
That's right. You can't see it so clearly when you're down amongst it, | 0:06:51 | 0:06:55 | |
but up here it's a really good aerial viewpoint. | 0:06:55 | 0:06:57 | |
-Yeah, and on a day like this you really can see for miles. -Mm. | 0:06:57 | 0:07:02 | |
Well, we could spend all day up here, but we've got to carry on. | 0:07:02 | 0:07:05 | |
-Where are we going next? -We're going to get some more beautiful views. | 0:07:05 | 0:07:08 | |
We're going to head off in that direction above Blaenrhondda. | 0:07:08 | 0:07:11 | |
'Kerry's passion for the outdoors | 0:07:12 | 0:07:15 | |
'means that she enjoys the challenge of persuading youngsters | 0:07:15 | 0:07:18 | |
'to tear themselves away from their computers and video games and out onto the hills.' | 0:07:18 | 0:07:24 | |
It's very important to encourage people to get out there and enjoy the countryside, but do so safely | 0:07:24 | 0:07:29 | |
and to manage the risks that it poses and be properly prepared, you know? | 0:07:29 | 0:07:33 | |
Because the weather can change very quickly and, er... | 0:07:33 | 0:07:37 | |
unless you've got what you need then you could be in trouble. | 0:07:37 | 0:07:40 | |
So as long as you're prepared... | 0:07:40 | 0:07:42 | |
No such thing as bad weather, it's just bad preparation! | 0:07:42 | 0:07:45 | |
Yeah, I know what you mean. | 0:07:45 | 0:07:47 | |
So, tell me what really appeals to you about being in the outdoors. | 0:07:47 | 0:07:51 | |
What do you like about it? | 0:07:51 | 0:07:53 | |
Just having the whole experience is beneficial for mind and body. | 0:07:53 | 0:07:56 | |
-Yeah, it can certainly lift your mood, can't it? -Oh, yes, indeed. | 0:07:56 | 0:07:59 | |
Especially when it's a glorious day like today. | 0:07:59 | 0:08:02 | |
'Yes, how could anyone fail to be uplifted up here on a day like this? | 0:08:02 | 0:08:08 | |
'As we gradually drop down below the ridge, we can now see into | 0:08:08 | 0:08:12 | |
'the upper end of the reclaimed and landscaped Blaenrhondda Valley. | 0:08:12 | 0:08:15 | |
'It may never return to the rural wilderness that existed here | 0:08:15 | 0:08:20 | |
'a mere century and a half ago, but today it looks pretty good to me.' | 0:08:20 | 0:08:25 | |
There we are, Derek, we're going to penetrate deep into the forestry now. | 0:08:25 | 0:08:28 | |
-It looks a bit dark in there. -Yes. | 0:08:28 | 0:08:32 | |
Who knows, lions, tigers, bears and, of course, the yeti of Blaenrhondda! | 0:08:32 | 0:08:36 | |
There's not really a Blaenrhondda yeti, is there? | 0:08:38 | 0:08:41 | |
Well, I don't know. Some say on a moonlit Friday night you can see him walking up from the club. | 0:08:41 | 0:08:46 | |
Well, it's a good job it's not Friday! | 0:08:46 | 0:08:49 | |
'As we head deeper into Kerry's yeti country, I'm beginning to feel like | 0:08:49 | 0:08:55 | |
'a bit of an explorer, as the path leads us through the forest, | 0:08:55 | 0:08:59 | |
'on towards the source of the river. | 0:08:59 | 0:09:01 | |
'There's plenty of running water up here, and not only in the river.' | 0:09:01 | 0:09:07 | |
There you are, mind where you put your feet now, Derek, because it's very muddy and wet down here. | 0:09:07 | 0:09:12 | |
-Yes, you have got to watch where you're walking, look! -HE LAUGHS | 0:09:12 | 0:09:17 | |
So what's this river called here? | 0:09:18 | 0:09:20 | |
This is our Rhondda now, the Rhondda Fawr, | 0:09:20 | 0:09:22 | |
heading down from the confluence of the streams | 0:09:22 | 0:09:26 | |
that feed down from the waterfalls just upstream here. | 0:09:26 | 0:09:30 | |
There's a bridge across the river. | 0:09:30 | 0:09:32 | |
Yeah. And that bridge is quite a new bridge, | 0:09:32 | 0:09:35 | |
put there by Groundwork Trust | 0:09:35 | 0:09:36 | |
when they were developing this Loops and Links route | 0:09:36 | 0:09:40 | |
for walkers and cyclists. | 0:09:40 | 0:09:41 | |
'Despite marker posts here and there and this purpose-built footbridge, | 0:09:41 | 0:09:45 | |
'we haven't seen another soul on this bit of the walk, | 0:09:45 | 0:09:49 | |
'but this just increases the feeling of being in proper back country | 0:09:49 | 0:09:53 | |
'on a real wilderness walk, | 0:09:53 | 0:09:55 | |
'which is quite incredible considering just how accessible it is.' | 0:09:55 | 0:10:00 | |
Pick your way through the heather. | 0:10:00 | 0:10:02 | |
That's right, yes. | 0:10:02 | 0:10:04 | |
Be careful you don't trip again. | 0:10:04 | 0:10:06 | |
'Just across the valley there's a major road, | 0:10:06 | 0:10:09 | |
'and yet we could be anywhere. | 0:10:09 | 0:10:11 | |
'Dr Livingstone and Stanley in deepest Rhondda Cynon Taff. | 0:10:11 | 0:10:15 | |
'Finally, we arrive at the source of our river.' | 0:10:17 | 0:10:21 | |
We're at the confluence of three streams | 0:10:21 | 0:10:23 | |
that create the River Rhondda. | 0:10:23 | 0:10:25 | |
We've got the Nant Melyn, | 0:10:25 | 0:10:28 | |
up there we've got the Nant Carn Moesen, | 0:10:28 | 0:10:31 | |
and we've got the Nant Gaerllwyd coming down there. | 0:10:31 | 0:10:34 | |
Where they converge down there is where the River Rhondda actually begins. | 0:10:34 | 0:10:38 | |
-So we've found the source of the River Rhondda. -We have, Derek. | 0:10:38 | 0:10:42 | |
And what a lovely journey it's been, hasn't it? | 0:10:42 | 0:10:45 | |
'But our journey doesn't end here, and there's lots more to see. | 0:10:45 | 0:10:49 | |
'Just across the top of the valley | 0:10:51 | 0:10:53 | |
'the path takes us close to some ancient stone hut circles.' | 0:10:53 | 0:10:58 | |
These are the remains of some of the first settlers in this area. | 0:11:00 | 0:11:05 | |
Iron Age settlements. | 0:11:05 | 0:11:06 | |
Apparently it's the biggest non-fortified Iron Age settlement in the whole of south-east Wales. | 0:11:06 | 0:11:12 | |
-Really? -Yeah. | 0:11:12 | 0:11:13 | |
There'd be roundhouses, these smaller circles possibly, | 0:11:13 | 0:11:17 | |
and then...they were probably farmers, it's thought, | 0:11:17 | 0:11:20 | |
and the larger enclosures possibly animal enclosures. | 0:11:20 | 0:11:24 | |
A great place to live. | 0:11:24 | 0:11:26 | |
-A bit exposed, but look at the view they would have had. -Oh, yes! | 0:11:26 | 0:11:30 | |
'But that view has certainly changed since those Iron Age farmers | 0:11:30 | 0:11:34 | |
'looked down the valley about 2,000 years ago. | 0:11:34 | 0:11:37 | |
'Man left his mark here big-time back in the 19th century, | 0:11:37 | 0:11:41 | |
'as mines were sunk | 0:11:41 | 0:11:42 | |
'and collieries dumped their waste over the countryside. | 0:11:42 | 0:11:46 | |
'Today it's a greener place again, | 0:11:46 | 0:11:50 | |
'though man still manages to leave his mark on the landscape. | 0:11:50 | 0:11:53 | |
'And evidence of coal mining is just beneath your feet.' | 0:11:53 | 0:11:57 | |
We can see where some of the coal | 0:11:58 | 0:12:01 | |
on this tip we're walking on has been exposed by the recent rains. | 0:12:01 | 0:12:05 | |
So all this area here | 0:12:05 | 0:12:07 | |
is all coal waste? | 0:12:07 | 0:12:09 | |
That's right, yes, from the collieries down there in the valley. | 0:12:09 | 0:12:13 | |
So when did they close? | 0:12:13 | 0:12:14 | |
The one furthest up here, the Blaenrhondda colliery, North Dunraven, | 0:12:14 | 0:12:19 | |
that was back in the '20s. | 0:12:19 | 0:12:21 | |
But Fernhill, which is a little bit further down there, | 0:12:21 | 0:12:24 | |
a lot more recent, 1970s, late 1970s, '78? | 0:12:24 | 0:12:29 | |
-Can I take a bit? -Of course you can. | 0:12:29 | 0:12:31 | |
That will look good on my mantelpiece, that. | 0:12:35 | 0:12:38 | |
'Up on the Rhigos Road we can see an old road watchman's hut and garden. | 0:12:40 | 0:12:44 | |
'Before they used steel nets, | 0:12:44 | 0:12:46 | |
'his job was to pick up rocks that fell onto the road. | 0:12:46 | 0:12:50 | |
'But in his spare time it seems he was a bit of an artist.' | 0:12:50 | 0:12:54 | |
What he used to do was, any rubbish that seemed to flow along the road and end up near his hut, | 0:12:54 | 0:13:00 | |
he used to create beautiful things into a little garden, | 0:13:00 | 0:13:04 | |
bit of recycling really, | 0:13:04 | 0:13:06 | |
out of things he found that blew down the mountain. | 0:13:06 | 0:13:10 | |
It's certainly different. | 0:13:10 | 0:13:12 | |
He certainly made his mark on Rhigos Mountain Road. | 0:13:12 | 0:13:14 | |
'A school's art project added even more recycled plastic sculptures here a few years ago, | 0:13:14 | 0:13:20 | |
'to commemorate the old watchman.' | 0:13:20 | 0:13:23 | |
If you look over there, Derek... | 0:13:24 | 0:13:26 | |
If you were here about 20 years ago | 0:13:27 | 0:13:30 | |
you'd have seen quite a different sight. | 0:13:30 | 0:13:32 | |
That was where we had a cowboy town called Western World. | 0:13:32 | 0:13:37 | |
You mean like cowboys, Indians and John Waynes running around? | 0:13:37 | 0:13:41 | |
That sort of thing, yes. | 0:13:41 | 0:13:43 | |
Well, I've heard it was like the Klondike 150 years ago, | 0:13:43 | 0:13:46 | |
but I never knew there was a Western theme park here. | 0:13:46 | 0:13:49 | |
No, no. But it was good fun while it lasted. | 0:13:49 | 0:13:53 | |
'Our walk has certainly been good fun while it lasted. | 0:13:53 | 0:13:56 | |
'In a place once famous for its collieries and coal tips, | 0:13:56 | 0:14:00 | |
'I've really enjoyed a surprising and beautiful walk - | 0:14:00 | 0:14:03 | |
'and a bit of an adventure to the source of a river. | 0:14:03 | 0:14:06 | |
'But suddenly we're back in the world of terraced houses | 0:14:06 | 0:14:10 | |
'and a reminder that this is so close for so many people. | 0:14:10 | 0:14:14 | |
'You know, there's just no excuse for not going for a walk here. | 0:14:14 | 0:14:18 | |
'If you fancy trying one of the walks from the series, | 0:14:19 | 0:14:23 | |
'go to bbc.co.uk/wales. | 0:14:23 | 0:14:25 | |
'Take a look at our interactive Weatherman Walking website. | 0:14:26 | 0:14:30 | |
'It has everything you need, from detailed route information for each walk, | 0:14:30 | 0:14:35 | |
'as well as photos that we took along the way, and walking maps for you to print off and follow. | 0:14:35 | 0:14:41 | |
'For our next walk, we head to the Talyllyn area in the Snowdonia National Park, | 0:14:41 | 0:14:46 | |
'home of one of the great little trains of Wales.' | 0:14:46 | 0:14:50 | |
This is the Talyllyn Railway, which runs | 0:14:51 | 0:14:54 | |
from Twywn on the mid-Wales coast to the village of Abergynolwyn. | 0:14:54 | 0:14:59 | |
A charming way to reach the start of a delightful walk | 0:14:59 | 0:15:02 | |
in a beautiful corner of the Snowdonia National Park. | 0:15:02 | 0:15:06 | |
'The Talyllyn narrow-gauge railway first opened in 1866 to carry slate. | 0:15:07 | 0:15:12 | |
'Then in 1951 it became the first railway in the world | 0:15:12 | 0:15:17 | |
'to be preserved by volunteers. | 0:15:17 | 0:15:19 | |
And waiting for me, I hope, at Nant Gwernol station is Lisa Markham, my guide for the day. | 0:15:19 | 0:15:27 | |
'Busy librarian and keen horsewoman Lisa and husband Ken | 0:15:27 | 0:15:31 | |
'farm in Cwm Llan, a delightful valley | 0:15:31 | 0:15:33 | |
'that we're actually passing through on our walk today.' | 0:15:33 | 0:15:38 | |
-Lisa. -Derek! | 0:15:38 | 0:15:41 | |
-Nice to meet you. -And you. Croeso y Nant Gwernol. -Diollch yn fawr. | 0:15:41 | 0:15:44 | |
And what a fantastic way to start the walk. | 0:15:44 | 0:15:47 | |
What a way. Amazing start. | 0:15:47 | 0:15:49 | |
-Shall we go? -Yes. | 0:15:49 | 0:15:51 | |
Just seven miles or so inland from the Cardigan Bay seaside town of Tywyn, | 0:15:52 | 0:15:58 | |
our walk takes us from Nant Gwernol station, | 0:15:58 | 0:16:00 | |
down through the village of Abergynolwyn, | 0:16:00 | 0:16:03 | |
along the Dysynni River, around to the 13th century Castell-y-Bere, | 0:16:03 | 0:16:08 | |
then up and over the high valley of Nant-yr-Eira | 0:16:08 | 0:16:11 | |
and back to Abergynolwyn. | 0:16:11 | 0:16:13 | |
TRAIN WHISTLE BLOWS | 0:16:15 | 0:16:17 | |
'Apart from the railway and a short, steep incline | 0:16:25 | 0:16:28 | |
'where slate trucks were once lowered down to the station, | 0:16:28 | 0:16:31 | |
'you'd be hard-pushed to see many signs of the quarry | 0:16:31 | 0:16:34 | |
'in this wonderful woodland. | 0:16:34 | 0:16:36 | |
'But 300 men were actually employed at Bryn Eglwys | 0:16:36 | 0:16:40 | |
'before it finally closed on Boxing Day 1946. | 0:16:40 | 0:16:44 | |
'When the railway first opened as a tourist attraction, | 0:16:45 | 0:16:48 | |
'the line came to an end a few miles further down the valley | 0:16:48 | 0:16:52 | |
'but now it's been extended to Nant Gwernol | 0:16:52 | 0:16:55 | |
'you can enjoy a stunning walk along this delightful cascading stream, | 0:16:55 | 0:16:58 | |
'where the workers once walked between the quarry and their homes in the village. | 0:16:58 | 0:17:04 | |
'But, of course, you don't HAVE to use the train to get here.' | 0:17:04 | 0:17:08 | |
Here on the right you will see some of the houses that were built | 0:17:12 | 0:17:17 | |
for the people that worked in the quarry. | 0:17:17 | 0:17:19 | |
This is where they lived, and this is a typical street in Abergynolwyn. | 0:17:19 | 0:17:24 | |
They've got lots of character, these little houses and cottages. | 0:17:24 | 0:17:28 | |
Yes. Surprisingly big... | 0:17:28 | 0:17:30 | |
And so popular, it's really what gives the village the character. | 0:17:30 | 0:17:35 | |
This is unusual, Lisa. What's this all about? | 0:17:38 | 0:17:40 | |
In one beautiful sculpture it's a symbol of the two rivers meeting, | 0:17:40 | 0:17:47 | |
which conveys the name of the village - aber...gywnolwyn. | 0:17:47 | 0:17:51 | |
-Abergynolwyn as we know it today. -Which means? | 0:17:51 | 0:17:54 | |
Which means...where these two rivers are meeting, | 0:17:54 | 0:17:57 | |
there was a rock that restricted the flow of water. | 0:17:57 | 0:18:02 | |
That restriction caused a whirlpool, a white whirlpool of water, which is Aber...gynolwyn. | 0:18:02 | 0:18:09 | |
Before the slate quarry opened, | 0:18:11 | 0:18:14 | |
there were actually two separate hamlets here, called Pandy and Cwrt. | 0:18:14 | 0:18:18 | |
When houses were built for the workers, the hamlets were joined by this quaint row of slate cottages, | 0:18:18 | 0:18:24 | |
and became part of the new planned settlement known as Abergynolwyn. | 0:18:24 | 0:18:29 | |
It's the organisation of the village that's amazing, because it was well thought out. | 0:18:31 | 0:18:36 | |
They wanted to make it as efficient as possible. | 0:18:36 | 0:18:40 | |
So they had the railway track bringing trucks down from the station | 0:18:40 | 0:18:45 | |
down into the village, | 0:18:45 | 0:18:47 | |
so they could just drive along the houses at the back of this street | 0:18:47 | 0:18:53 | |
and hand out the goods. | 0:18:53 | 0:18:55 | |
So across the bridge and over the river. | 0:18:55 | 0:18:58 | |
Yes, the footbridge out of the village, | 0:18:58 | 0:19:01 | |
just crossing the Gwernol River. | 0:19:01 | 0:19:03 | |
You will just see where the two rivers meet, just below us there. | 0:19:03 | 0:19:09 | |
'And where the Gwernol meets the Dysynni river today, | 0:19:09 | 0:19:12 | |
'I'm afraid the foaming white whirlpool | 0:19:12 | 0:19:15 | |
'that gave the village its name is no more. | 0:19:15 | 0:19:17 | |
'Maybe someone moved the rock. | 0:19:17 | 0:19:20 | |
'Occasionally you come across things on a walk | 0:19:21 | 0:19:24 | |
'that you wouldn't have a clue what they're for. | 0:19:24 | 0:19:27 | |
'Fortunately I've got Lisa with me to explain how once upon a time | 0:19:27 | 0:19:32 | |
'farmers' wives milked their cows out in the fields, | 0:19:32 | 0:19:35 | |
'and they had a rather simple way of keeping the cows from wandering off.' | 0:19:35 | 0:19:39 | |
The cows would be grazing and the woman would bring them over, | 0:19:39 | 0:19:44 | |
tie them up and feed them in this handmade trough. | 0:19:44 | 0:19:49 | |
Then she would be quite relaxed | 0:19:49 | 0:19:51 | |
and they'd get the milk that they needed. Quite amazing. | 0:19:51 | 0:19:54 | |
Thinking of the ways they milk them now, with their posh pipelines and their tanks. | 0:19:54 | 0:20:01 | |
-Much simpler in the olden days. -Yes. -Shall we carry on? -Yes. | 0:20:01 | 0:20:05 | |
'Well, who would have guessed? A metal ring, a chiselled out rock, | 0:20:07 | 0:20:11 | |
'and you've got milk for your cornflakes. | 0:20:11 | 0:20:13 | |
'Life was much simpler back then! | 0:20:13 | 0:20:15 | |
'This steep and narrow-sided section of the Dysynni | 0:20:19 | 0:20:23 | |
'is a classic example of what geologists call river capture. | 0:20:23 | 0:20:27 | |
'If we look at the map we'll see that there's a more direct route for this river to reach the sea, | 0:20:27 | 0:20:32 | |
'as it once did - straight on at Abergynolwyn. | 0:20:32 | 0:20:36 | |
'However, the small stream that was originally here | 0:20:37 | 0:20:40 | |
'gradually ate away at the head of its valley | 0:20:40 | 0:20:43 | |
'until it broke through and stole the neighbouring river, the Dysynni, | 0:20:43 | 0:20:47 | |
'diverting its course. | 0:20:47 | 0:20:49 | |
'A case of geological robbery, you might say.' | 0:20:49 | 0:20:53 | |
-Another stile, another gate. -Yes, but leave the gate open, keep them as you find them. | 0:20:53 | 0:20:59 | |
'Following the stolen river, | 0:21:01 | 0:21:03 | |
'we now reach what became, thousands of years ago, its new home, | 0:21:03 | 0:21:08 | |
'the stunningly beautiful Cwm Llan, | 0:21:08 | 0:21:10 | |
'lying below the large bulk of Cadair Idris, 2,900 ft above. | 0:21:10 | 0:21:15 | |
'We now join a short section of road near a bridge above a deep pool in the river | 0:21:18 | 0:21:23 | |
'where farmers once brought their sheep to wash before shearing. | 0:21:23 | 0:21:26 | |
'The path now goes right through the farmyard of Cae'r Berllan. | 0:21:28 | 0:21:32 | |
'The magnificent farmhouse is a listed building | 0:21:32 | 0:21:35 | |
'and is over 400 years old.' | 0:21:35 | 0:21:37 | |
As you can see from the plaque, it goes back to 1590. | 0:21:37 | 0:21:42 | |
That's when this magnificent house | 0:21:42 | 0:21:45 | |
was built for Baron Owen's son, Hugh Lewis Owen, and his wife, Catherine. | 0:21:45 | 0:21:51 | |
If you look at the next date, 1755, it was the fourth descendants, | 0:21:51 | 0:21:56 | |
again of the Owen family, | 0:21:56 | 0:21:58 | |
and that's when they actually put the back of the house on. | 0:21:58 | 0:22:01 | |
In 1942, that's when Robert Jones and his family were living here. | 0:22:01 | 0:22:08 | |
The family still farm it. | 0:22:08 | 0:22:10 | |
The son, Robert Jones, and Ceinwen, and the boys. | 0:22:10 | 0:22:14 | |
They are keeping up the tradition of the Welsh Black cattle, | 0:22:14 | 0:22:18 | |
the Welsh mountain sheep | 0:22:18 | 0:22:20 | |
and, more importantly, the shire horses. | 0:22:20 | 0:22:23 | |
'I wouldn't mind a place like that as a country retreat, | 0:22:25 | 0:22:27 | |
'and the stately farmhouse comes with a view to match. | 0:22:27 | 0:22:31 | |
'A glorious panorama up and down the valley. | 0:22:31 | 0:22:35 | |
'Across the fields, we can now see the romantic ruins of Castell-y-Bere. | 0:22:38 | 0:22:44 | |
'This was once an outstanding Welsh stronghold, | 0:22:44 | 0:22:47 | |
'perfectly situated to stand guard over the surrounding valley. | 0:22:47 | 0:22:52 | |
'The castle was built by Llewellyn Fawr - Llewellyn the Great - | 0:22:52 | 0:22:56 | |
'in the 1220s, | 0:22:56 | 0:22:58 | |
'and guarded what was once a major route through the mountains. | 0:22:58 | 0:23:01 | |
'Unlike those castles built by the English in Wales to intimidate the local ruffians, | 0:23:01 | 0:23:07 | |
'Castell-y-Bere was built by a native Welsh prince as both a fortress and a home.' | 0:23:07 | 0:23:13 | |
From the track over there, Lisa, the castle doesn't look very much. | 0:23:14 | 0:23:19 | |
But when you're here it really is quite impressive. | 0:23:19 | 0:23:23 | |
Just imagine what it must have looked like when Llewellyn actually lived here. | 0:23:23 | 0:23:27 | |
It's just a fantastic location. | 0:23:28 | 0:23:31 | |
This is what they think it may have looked like back in the 13th century. | 0:23:32 | 0:23:36 | |
Yes, when Llewellyn Fawr lived here with his wife. | 0:23:36 | 0:23:41 | |
The more you know about the history, | 0:23:41 | 0:23:43 | |
the more it means to you. | 0:23:43 | 0:23:46 | |
You can come here... | 0:23:46 | 0:23:48 | |
It's not as grand as some of the other castles around Wales, | 0:23:48 | 0:23:51 | |
but you can come here and use your imagination | 0:23:51 | 0:23:54 | |
to try and imagine what it would have been like back in the 13th century. | 0:23:54 | 0:24:00 | |
And really soak up the atmosphere. | 0:24:00 | 0:24:03 | |
'In 1283 the castle fell to the English forces of Edward I | 0:24:05 | 0:24:09 | |
'and was soon abandoned. | 0:24:09 | 0:24:11 | |
'Lower down the valley is a buttress of rock with a sheer face, | 0:24:13 | 0:24:17 | |
'home to some very unusual residents this far away from the sea.' | 0:24:17 | 0:24:23 | |
That is Bird Rock, Craig yr Aderyn. | 0:24:23 | 0:24:26 | |
Why is it called that? | 0:24:26 | 0:24:27 | |
Because the cormorants still come up to nest away from the sea. | 0:24:27 | 0:24:31 | |
A seabird is still coming inland. | 0:24:31 | 0:24:34 | |
This is the only place in the British Isles where that happens. | 0:24:34 | 0:24:38 | |
The sea used to come right up to the castle. | 0:24:38 | 0:24:43 | |
'But you'd think the cormorants would have noticed by now! | 0:24:43 | 0:24:46 | |
'A few hundred yards up the valley is the lovely little Church of St Michael, | 0:24:46 | 0:24:51 | |
'where a young girl called Mary Jones went each Sunday. | 0:24:51 | 0:24:55 | |
'Back in 1800, Mary undertook a remarkable walk - | 0:24:55 | 0:24:59 | |
'a feat of endurance which led to the founding | 0:24:59 | 0:25:02 | |
'of a worldwide organisation.' | 0:25:02 | 0:25:04 | |
She was a little girl, she was 16 years of age. | 0:25:04 | 0:25:07 | |
Having worked for six years, saving up her money, | 0:25:07 | 0:25:11 | |
and the one thing she wanted was her very own Bible. | 0:25:11 | 0:25:15 | |
-So what she did, apparently barefoot, she walked all the way to Bala, 25 miles. -Blimey! | 0:25:15 | 0:25:22 | |
She went to the Reverend Thomas Charles to buy this Bible | 0:25:22 | 0:25:27 | |
but he didn't have any copies left. | 0:25:27 | 0:25:31 | |
But he felt so sorry for this... | 0:25:31 | 0:25:34 | |
you know, the desperate measures she'd taken for this Bible, that he gave her his. | 0:25:34 | 0:25:40 | |
'The story of Mary Jones and her Bible | 0:25:40 | 0:25:43 | |
'inspired the founding of the British and Foreign Bible Society, | 0:25:43 | 0:25:47 | |
'that now supplies Bibles to countries around the world. | 0:25:47 | 0:25:51 | |
'We now head off over the high valleys of Nant-yr-Eira, | 0:25:53 | 0:25:57 | |
'which means snowy stream. | 0:25:57 | 0:25:59 | |
'This is also the first section of the Mary Jones Walk - | 0:25:59 | 0:26:03 | |
'an official route retracing Mary's marathon barefoot walk, | 0:26:03 | 0:26:06 | |
'which starts here and ends 26 miles further on in Bala. | 0:26:06 | 0:26:11 | |
'Walking it barefoot is optional.' | 0:26:11 | 0:26:13 | |
This is interesting, there's a gap in the rocks here. | 0:26:13 | 0:26:16 | |
Yes, a landmark on the Mary Jones Walk to say that you're on the right track. | 0:26:16 | 0:26:21 | |
-A bit of a gateway. -Yes, it is. | 0:26:21 | 0:26:23 | |
Look, people have written on the rocks as well, their names. | 0:26:23 | 0:26:29 | |
Graffiti in the hills. | 0:26:29 | 0:26:31 | |
We're walking through this upland valley now, | 0:26:32 | 0:26:36 | |
back down to the village now, battling against the wind. | 0:26:36 | 0:26:40 | |
You should have worn your extra-strong hairspray today. | 0:26:40 | 0:26:43 | |
-Yes, or a hat! -It would have been blown off! | 0:26:43 | 0:26:48 | |
Well, we're approaching the brow of the valley now. | 0:26:55 | 0:26:58 | |
I was just thinking about Mary Jones and the journey she made to Bala, | 0:26:58 | 0:27:02 | |
another 23 miles that way, barefoot, dodging all these thistles. | 0:27:02 | 0:27:07 | |
-She must have been a tough Merionethshire girl. -Inspirational is the word. | 0:27:07 | 0:27:12 | |
'The path now heads towards this dramatic glacial valley. | 0:27:13 | 0:27:17 | |
'The Mary Jones Walk goes up the valley from here. | 0:27:17 | 0:27:20 | |
'Our route, though, turns down through a woodland of mountain oak. | 0:27:20 | 0:27:24 | |
'The trees were important to the local leather industry | 0:27:24 | 0:27:27 | |
'that was here before slate quarrying, | 0:27:27 | 0:27:30 | |
'and provided work for the women rather than the men.' | 0:27:30 | 0:27:33 | |
Walking through the trees, Derek, it takes you back a little bit | 0:27:33 | 0:27:37 | |
to those strong Welsh women from Abergynolwyn. | 0:27:37 | 0:27:40 | |
They used to come to the trees, chop the wood, carry it down to the tannery and use the bark | 0:27:40 | 0:27:48 | |
to colour the leather. | 0:27:48 | 0:27:50 | |
Which really, before the quarry, was the main business in Abergynolwyn. | 0:27:50 | 0:27:55 | |
-Another little bit of history. -Yes. | 0:27:55 | 0:27:57 | |
-After you. -Thank you. | 0:27:57 | 0:27:59 | |
'And we're on the home stretch. | 0:27:59 | 0:28:01 | |
'A few stiles to clamber over | 0:28:01 | 0:28:03 | |
'and a mile or so along a country lane will bring us back | 0:28:03 | 0:28:07 | |
'to the village of Abergynolwyn. | 0:28:07 | 0:28:08 | |
'Packed into an incredibly varied six-mile walk, | 0:28:10 | 0:28:14 | |
'from steam train to waterfalls, a 13th-century fortress | 0:28:14 | 0:28:18 | |
'and then finally retracing the steps of the young Mary Jones, | 0:28:18 | 0:28:22 | |
'this has been a day to remember in magical Merionethshire. | 0:28:22 | 0:28:27 | |
'Now, what time was that train due to leave?' | 0:28:27 | 0:28:29 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:28:40 | 0:28:42 | |
E-mail [email protected] | 0:28:42 | 0:28:43 |