The Eildons Wild Walks


The Eildons

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It's a windy, wintry morning on the Scottish Borders

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and I'm just above the town of Melrose -

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world-famous, of course, for its rugby sevens.

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But it's another number that I'm interested in today -

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not seven, but the number three,

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because the hills we're going to climb today

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were once known to the Romans as Trimontium.

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The three conical mounds of the Eildons are, on that side,

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Mid Hill, North Hill,

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and away round the corner there, Wester Hill.

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They were formed a long, long time ago by an immense lava flow

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that once covered this whole area.

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That lava flow intruded into the sandstone below,

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the underlying sandstone,

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and through countless centuries of rain and wind and ice,

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they've been weathered down into three distinct tops

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that have become a well-loved symbol of the Scottish Borders.

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And you know, on a day like this,

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you can be assured that that weathering process

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is still going on.

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The wind is really fierce today.

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In fact, it's so fierce,

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that tomorrow we might even have six Eildons.

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Here's the first of our three hills of the Eildons - Eildon Hill North.

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Not very far now.

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This looks like a fairly substantial track I'm walking up,

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indeed you could get a horse and cart up here.

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And I suspect its origins are pretty ancient,

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because at one time, there was quite a large settlement up here.

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This is the first of our three Eildon Hills

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and archaeologists reckon

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that 2,000 years ago, the people of the Selgovae tribe

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had built about 300 hut circles up here on the slopes of the hill.

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Can you imagine that - 300 hut circles?

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It must have been like an ancient city.

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You know, it's not surprising,

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because by building their homes up here,

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they could see enemies approaching from a long way away.

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Later on, the Romans took over the site

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and they used it as a signal station.

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And by lighting a fire up here,

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it could be seen for dozens of miles all around.

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I've developed a real passion for walking here in the Borders,

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a passion that was born

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when I tackled a section of the Southern Upland Way

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about 20 years ago.

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I discovered this was an area of Scotland

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rich in legend and folklore,

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with some great hills into the bargain.

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Although it's not a long walk,

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the triple tops of the Eildons offer an excellent leg-stretch

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for these shorter days of winter.

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This is Eildon Mid Hill - 442 metres or 1,385 feet.

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Unlike the other tops of the Eildons,

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it really reeks of ancient history.

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There was apparently a burial cairn up here

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and today, we've got this view indicator

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and it's showing me the Teviots of Northumberland

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are over in that direction,

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the Moorfoots are over in that direction,

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and the Lammermuirs across that way.

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It's interesting,

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both the Moorfoots and the Lammermuirs have got snow on them,

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so winter has arrived with a vengeance.

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I'm heading towards the last of our Eildons, Wester Eildon.

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You know, while I'm fascinated by the geology of hills like this,

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I'm equally fascinated by the alternative theories

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of how a landscape developed.

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There's a lovely here that the Eildons were actually formed

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by a man called Michael Scott the Wizard

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and he was ordered by Old Nick, the devil himself,

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to turn the one single Eildon into three.

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So, using his supernatural powers, that's exactly what he did.

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It's also claimed in this area

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that the 13th century bard, Thomas the Rhymer,

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was captured by the fairy folk and spent seven years in Efland,

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which was apparently below the Eildons, right here in the Borders.

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But, you know, the one thing that bothers me is this name,

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Michael Scott the Wizard. It's a lousy name for a wizard!

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You really need a Merlin, or a Gandalf, or something like that.

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But I think what really worries me about it

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is I once had an accountant by the name of Michael Scott,

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and he was certainly no wizard!

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Here we are, the final top of our Eildons trio.

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You know, these might not be big hills in terms of elevation,

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but they are prominent hills

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in relation to the rolling landscape around them.

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They've also got one other good thing going for them

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from this final top, it's only about 30 or 40 minutes down to Melrose

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and a particularly good coffee shop that I know.

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With all this talk of supernatural powers and wizards,

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I think I can hear the distant magical call of a latte

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summoning me down below to somewhere warmer.

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See you next time.

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