Episode 2 Hair

Welcome back to Hair, where the search for Britain's best amateur hairstylist continues.

Last week, eight contestants went head-to-head to impress the judges.

Overall, I'm a little bit disappointed.

Royal hairdresser Denise McAdam,

and international celebrity stylist, Alain Pichon.

This line's not good enough, it should have been stronger.

The amateur stylists did their best to create quiffs...

I'm winging it.

..cut with precision...

I've never cut hair before.

..and deliver dramatic, fairytale designs.

Oh, my goodness, she's in there!

That is a fairytale.

All in a bid to stay in the competition.

And while critical care nurse Annie

impressed the judges with her Snow Queen.

Wonderful.

Sadly, for 22-year-old beautician, Amy, the fairytale was over.

The fairytale wasn't a fairytale.

And she had to leave.

This week, the judges are raising the stakes.

Everything's tricky about what I'm doing.

Oh, I have no idea.

And the stylists will have to braid...

I'm panicking a little bit.

...and bouffant to their best ability to avoid elimination.

I'm scared.

Oh, no!

Two days of intricate cutting and styling await the contestants.

The floor's been swept, the scissors are sharpened,

the judges are ready.

Let's get to work on Hair.

Oh!

-Welcome back. How are you feeling? You good?

-Good.

-OK.

As you know, the first challenge of every week is to incorporate

a set element.

This week's set element, plaits and braids.

So, put it up, put it down, cut it,

do what you want with your hair,

but you must incorporate the set element.

You must be strong on your section in the composition of your design.

We'd like to see big and bold shape in the same time.

OK, your models await. You have two hours.

Time starts now. Get to it.

Hi!

In this challenge, the stylists have pre-selected models

with a type of hair they want to work with.

Hey, lovely, let's get cracking.

As plaits and braids come in many different styles,

the contestants can choose to do any kind they like.

I have to plead ignorance.

I do not know the difference between a plait and a braid.

-I imagine I'm not alone.

-Well, it's quite simple actually.

If it's onto the scalp, it's a braid,

and when it leaves, it becomes a plait.

So how are they going to impress you?

How can they achieve the perfect braid or plait?

I think it's about making sure that each strand is very even,

very neat all the way through, from the roots to the ends.

We want to see tightness, neatness and precision.

Whatever type of plait or braid the stylists create, they must

form a clear, overall 360-degree design around their model's head.

The hair that I asked for was long and blonde, simply

because I thought, with lighter hair, it would be easier to see

the braiding pattern and the techniques I have done.

Marvin started cutting his sister's hair when he was still a schoolboy.

His design will include a netted rope braid, and cane rows.

-Morning, Marvin.

-Morning, Denise.

-You're getting well ahead here.

Yeah, a cane row is something that I normally do.

I can see the nice channels starting.

You've got two hours to do this challenge.

Do you think that's enough time?

I'm used to a cane row when I do extensions.

It's not really a problem for me. I think I'll be OK.

Cane rows are a classic braid, created by weaving small sections

of hair close to the scalp, and are so-called, as they should

run in straight, evenly-spaced lines, like rows of sugar cane.

I don't usually do plaits and braids day to day, usually I'm doing

sort of vintage sets and things, so it's something new for me.

25-year-old Laura is a fan of all things retro.

Laura has chosen a 1940s inspired design,

including a French braid and fishtail plaits.

I think I'm brushing it out, and being really apprehensive to

start, but I'm just going to have to get started on it.

Laura starts by creating a fishtail plait.

A perfect fishtail should have a distinctive tapered shape

at the end, just like a fish's tail.

The tapering is created by beginning with three strands of hair,

then splitting them into finer and finer strands

as they progress down the plait.

I don't often use plaits and braids.

They're not I would say, current and, at the moment, I'm not

seeing a lot of plaits and braids on runways and such.

16-year-old Kobi is his mum's personal hairdresser.

Kobi is planning a plaited updo with twisted plaits.

I do want to do it quite naturally

and flowy, rather than really extreme and tight.

And have that nicely effortless look to it.

Kobi is a little shy with it, but it's easy to make it loose.

It's much more difficult to make it tight. So let's see what happens.

What I've got planned, I think, should work nicely, if it works.

Everything's tricky about what I'm doing.

Mum-of-two Katie is the one her neighbours go

to for styling their hair.

That's beautiful, thank you.

Katie will create intricately woven braids

to form part of a Mohican design.

All the ends of the woven bit, which I need to kind of make

a feature, I'm plaiting it all, and then I'm going to literally

hold onto one strand, hold the other ones there and it

kind of whooshes up, and you get a bit of a funny effect going on.

I really like what Katie is doing. Micro-braiding.

It's very fine, fine strands of hair connected into each other's.

The interweaving is kind of complicated,

and that makes it interesting for what she's doing.

I haven't seen anyone else's other than Marvin's,

and I can't believe he's got that much braiding done in that time.

I'll be worrying.

I'm a nurse by day, it's just been so intense.

Intensive-care nurse Annie enjoys styling friends' hair to relax.

Beautiful.

Annie is going to create a complicated basket weave

as a feature of her design.

Basket weaves can be quite fiddly.

You've got to kind of get all your hands in there

and make sure that your positioning of your fingers are correct.

Annie takes a large, flat section of hair and divides into strands.

She weaves outer strands horizontally through

the vertical strands, all the way down the section of hair,

in the same way a wicker basket is woven.

Well, Annie, she's reaching another level.

Basket weaving, to that degree, fat sections, fat strands,

looks really good.

Over.

Under.

-I have to kind of say it to myself, "Over, under."

-One, two, three.

I love the fact you've got red hair. Ginger power!

Photographer's stylist Dominika likes to stand out from the crowd.

Ta-dah!

Dominika's design will feature a three-dimensional birdcage plait.

I'm going to do my favourite plait, it's called birdcage plait.

It's a very precise one, but it looks great,

so hopefully it will work.

The plait is woven like a fish tail,

but with an additional strand left loose at the root.

This strand is gradually woven into the plait

and then pulled, to create the three-dimensional effect.

So once you pull it, you're getting this effect.

It turns it into something more fancy.

Last week I got loads of African hair,

so I wanted to do something really different

and show that you can do these kind of styles on Caucasian hair as well.

I'm trying to push the boat out a little bit more.

Former secondary school teacher Ebuni has styled her own hair

since she was a teenager.

Ebuni's design will feature an 11-strand plait

and a feather-looped headband.

I am trying to do a feather braid, so what I'm going to do is a braid

that's going to come across her forehead, kind of like a headband.

So, a feather braid is a normal three-strand braid,

but every time you cross over, you drop a little bit of hair,

so it leaves like a feather.

And I'm incorporating that feather back into the braid

further down, so it kind of forms like a loop section,

and obviously, as I'm going down the braid, I'm losing more hair,

so the base one is getting a little bit thinner as well.

So that's why it's a bit more tricky.

-Hiya.

-Hello.

I see you've stepped out of a time machine from the '50s again.

-Loving it.

-Thanks.

-What's the least '50s item of clothing you have?

I got a onesie, that's not very...

-OK, how's the hair going?

-It's going OK.

-Yeah?

I assume they never had braids in the '50s either.

There was definitely a craze to sort of have a ponytail going across

the top of the head, but this is just totally out of my comfort zone.

I've got some bows,

so maybe that's adding a little bit of a vintage touch, maybe.

-Best of luck. Keep it going.

-Thank you.

20 minutes left, guys.

20 minutes to finish what you're doing.

With less than half an hour to go, the stylists need

to focus on bringing together their overall design.

There is an error at the back that I'm not so happy with,

just because I found that I've not got a big enough plait to fill

that shape of that big circle.

Oh, my God.

Marvin is struggling to finish his netted rope braid.

Stressful, bro.

Oh, my life.

Yeah, I'm panicking a little bit.

Here he is. Marvin, are you happy?

Oh, I don't know what I'm thinking right now.

What do you mean? Is it going wrong?

You've got to explain to me, because, to me, it looks perfect.

I think I'm starting to panic a bit.

I'm just used to working more with Afro-Caribbean hair,

so with European hair, it just moves, so it's a lot harder to work.

You requested this particular hair, though, didn't you?

OK, you're going to have some points

for stepping out of your comfort zone.

-Good luck, Marvin, good luck.

-Thank you.

The stylists have just a few minutes to put the finishing touches

to their creations.

I don't want any ties or bobbles,

so I've teased it with my fingers, and then I backcombed it.

Then all I've done is sprayed some hairspray on.

I don't know what they're going to think.

But, it's the first time I've ever done a braided style,

so hopefully, they see that and they like it.

I don't think I've breathed for the past hour.

-It's not as perfect, but it will do.

-Done?

-Yeah.

Thank you, guys. All stop!

Step away from the hair.

Denise and Alain will be looking for well-defined plaits

and a good overall design.

Let the judgements commence.

So, let's have a chat with Annie.

Annie, question. Did you intend for her to look this German?

I was going for more pagan.

If she had two steins in her hand...

You can see the shape, basket weaves, it's not easy.

You can see exactly what it is.

I like the way that you didn't use any elastic band on the end,

but just a backcombing effect.

Don't be afraid to frame the face

and really give a little bit more attention to the finish itself.

It's got a nice S shape on your weave, so it's not a diagonal

with, it's a nice S, and the way you've followed the hair through.

-I didn't notice that.

-Which is lovely.

-I think it's a good attempt, really good attempt.

-Thank you.

This is unusual, to see birdcage technique, and you can see

through the transparency that it criss-crosses itself.

So you have created a great hairstyle.

We can turn it right round and there's interest from all angles

-and it's very neat, and your lines are lovely.

-I like it really much.

Cool. Thank you.

Great. Really good effect,

and you can see the distinctive shape.

This is nice and neat. Your channels are nice.

The ones that are a bit untidy, they're hidden, but this is lovely.

This work here is really intricate.

Great effect, and I do think that choosing blonde hair

is a good, good idea.

Really the roots comes out and the texture comes out a lot stronger.

Thank you very much.

It's a little bit untidy,

so there's not enough definition between each plait.

It's kind of got, I hate to use the word,

a slight birds-nesty feel going on.

The tightness is missing.

The cleanness of it. If it was a lot cleaner, it would have worked.

It's almost like you want to lift all these plaits up.

-You can actually create more of a style.

-Thank you.

-Mmm!

-That's fab.

-It's looking really clean.

Let's see the braids.

We have the classic braid.

French braid on the back, fishtail on the side,

and the bow. Nice technique, huh?

This is the simplicity of the shape we are looking for, but overall,

the symmetry, the finishing of the bows, it's a good attempt.

You seem almost a bit surprised

by the positivity from the judges there.

I am, I mean, I'm not a braider, I don't braid hair.

-Before we move on, are we all agreed that Laura is a natural?

-I like it.

-Look at this lady. It's like she's from the future.

-Yeah.

You made a strong statement with this technique, which is fantastic.

It really is embroidery on here, actually.

I would like to have seen more of these. So tight.

Your fingers must be raw by doing it as tight as that.

It doesn't even look real.

The overall feels like we don't see the small braiding in it.

You've got to lift it up to see what's going on around it.

Talking about mohawk, make it look completely like a mo,

and really stand it up as much as possible, so you can reveal

all your hard work, because it's pretty incredible.

Dynamite!

-She's just showing off now.

-Yes, this is pretty, I think.

-Very pretty.

-Really cute.

-It is.

Even if you just lifted it a tiny bit, just a little bit

so it flowed in with the hairline, but your plait's nice and tight.

Very interesting techniques, so you are the only one using, how many?

-11 strands.

-11 strands! Look at that. That's pretty effective.

I think I would have wanted to move it just a bit

so we can see all the strands and see the basket you created in there.

But it's very pretty.

Well done, guys. Fabulous work.

You're all sickeningly talented.

So before the next challenge, go and grab yourself some tea and biccies.

-Who shone for you?

-Dominika.

You know, her plaits were very neat and tight.

I think Marvin's technically getting really good.

During the challenge, I kind of got a bit angry with myself.

I didn't think that I was doing exactly what I set out to do,

but after the comments from the judges, yeah, I was very happy.

I was kind of in my element. I was so pleased.

Now it's time to move the challenge to the blockheads.

This week, Denise and Alain want accurately cut layers

and beautifully-rolled rollers and big, big, big hair.

This round is all about mastering a basic haircutting technique.

This week, it's layering.

The judges want the stylist to perfectly replicate this,

a long, layered cut, set to perfection in rollers,

to look just like this.

As we know, this is all about precision and accuracy.

What am I looking at, Denise?

You're looking at a classical, long layered haircut

and a very traditional set.

Now, I think Alain can maybe explain the haircut.

This is a very symmetrical haircut.

Be very, very strict on the balance.

Exact same lengths either side.

Once the hair is cut, it must be set in rollers and styled.

This is the finished look that we'd like you to recreate,

so use your common sense and your creativity to follow this exactly.

OK.

Don't forget the judges will be ranking you at the end of this,

so do your very best.

You have two hours and 15 minutes in which to complete this task.

Go and reacquaint yourself with your old friends,

the blockheads over there.

And off you go. Good luck.

The long layered haircut is used to give body

and volume to hair without changing the overall length.

The stylists have been given a sectioning pattern,

or map, to help them.

First time I've ever seen this in my life.

I'm scared.

I'm not sure how I'm feeling.

Trying to get my head around the cutting pattern we've been

given, so, I hope that's what I'm supposed to be doing.

I call this one just out of the shower, and this one grandma's hair.

And I would say that if you put that on Rita Ora's head,

you would change your mind.

-That's a good point, actually, yes.

-Ah, you see!

Is it tricky cutting hair like this?

I believe it is a little tricky.

You just have to make sure your elevation is right,

your angle is perfect, and that will give you a perfect balance.

The way you are speaking,

I'm envisaging a complete disaster out there.

For beginners attempting long layers,

the hair should first be divided into four large sections,

one centre parting and a diagonal running from ear to ear.

The next step is to cut a guide layer.

This will determine the overall length of all of the other

layers in the haircut.

At the moment, I'm a bit scared,

because I don't really know what I'm doing.

The guide layer is cut by pulling a front section of hair forward

and cutting at a 45 degree angle.

The first cut you make is the most important cut,

it's the first line of where you're going.

Once you've cut...

Oh, man, I don't like this challenge.

..you've created that line, and you have to stick with it now.

I've gone far too short on my first cut.

Get your first cut wrong, you're gone.

An identical guide must then be cut on the other side of the head

to achieve a symmetrical haircut.

This cut's all about symmetry,

so that your haircut is completely balanced.

It's a little bit longer on this side, so I need to go in again.

As you can see here, completely different lengths.

The guide layers are then lifted up to a 90 degree angle

so the remaining layers can be matched to them.

My...!

In the hairdressing world,

cutting in this position is known as elevation.

I'm just trying to get my angle straight.

Just trying my hardest.

I see hairdressers do it all the time and make it look so easy,

and it's not very easy at all.

The trick to cutting perfectly at elevation is to create tension.

It's all about the collaboration between the comb and the scissors,

knowing that once you reach the right position of your section,

you hold it tight, it's locked, nothing is moving.

And then you can cut into the movement.

As soon as you go to reach for something else,

that section's going to move, tension's not the same,

the angle's changed.

We are talking precise technique.

It's going to be really difficult for them to achieve that.

I have no idea.

Basically, the whole thing is not right.

Take this bit from underneath, it should get to that, but it doesn't.

So I've done it wrong.

-Hour and a bit left.

-Oh, God.

-How's it going?

-Badly.

-I've done it wrong.

-What have you done wrong?

-Typical mistake.

I've done it at the wrong angle,

so it's not got the layering effect.

I've done it more sort of...

Ah.

The only other way to do it would be just to cut it shorter,

but I can't cut it shorter.

Relax, deep breaths, OK.

You'll get your head around, I know you will. It's fine.

-Hi, Annie. How are you finding this challenge?

-Really difficult.

Really difficult. Have you layered hair before at all?

I'm going up, and then I'm slightly bringing it to the angle,

and then I've nearly cut my finger, so I kind of rectified it.

Well, you're a nurse, you can deal with a cut.

I can cope with that.

Once the stylists are happy with the symmetry of their cut,

they must set the hair.

I've finished with the cut,

and I've checked it, and it's to my satisfaction.

I'm going to start putting the rollers in,

because I would hate for it not to dry and set.

I'm setting behind the rollers now.

Do I have enough time, I'm not quite sure?

Because I don't know how long it's going to take to put underneath.

I hope it's quite strong.

-This is very important, that when you set the hair in rollers, you create volume and bounce.

-OK.

One of the pitfalls with rollers is that

if you don't get the ends in,

you create a thing called a fishhook end,

which completely ruins the finish.

Very important to get that tail comb and tuck them in, smooth them,

hold them to your fingers, and then just guide them round, nice

-and slowly, and then you just shake the roller.

-A little shimmy.

Shimmy, shimmy, shimmy.

Even the tension, and we put the clip in.

I'm hoping I can hide the dodgy cut with the rollers.

As long as I can get the set looking right, I might get away with the cut.

Timing is key to achieving the perfect set.

How does this work?

The stylists should allow at least 35 minutes for the hair

to dry completely, and another 10 for it to cool down.

Oop!

I'm the first one under the dryer,

and I'm happy that I managed to get my rollers in on time.

They weren't the neatest, but with the time that we've got left,

I just need to get it dry.

It's not about precision at the moment,

it's just about getting it dry so I can get the finished look.

The way a wet set works is heat.

You have very wet hair, and it's dried at high heat.

The wetness softens the hair, the heat dries it into the mould,

and the coolness sets it.

With only 45 minutes to go,

Laura has yet to get her blockhead under the dryer.

I'm totally crumbling.

I think the pressure of trying to get the haircut done,

I've just like, I didn't count the rollers, so, I've kind of started

with a pattern and I'm still going with the pattern, but I think I'll

just put myself under an immense amount of pressure, because it's

something I do all the time and I'm really worried that it's not right.

Oh, my gosh, that was far too much pressure for me. Seriously.

Literally, that completely threw me.

-How's it going?

-It's cooking. That's enough.

I can't believe actual human beings put their head in these things.

Yeah, I did that once, but with metal rollers.

It wasn't a good idea.

Nuclear hot on your head.

Yeah, a bit. And your make-up melts.

She's fine. She doesn't complain.

Looking relaxed.

How long is it going to be in here for?

20 minutes before it's finished, I will switch to the really

cold temperature to cool it down for five minutes.

-Is that the secret?

-Yes!

-Cool it down?

-Has to cool down.

-Have you told anybody else that?

-No.

-Great.

30 minutes left, everyone, by the way. 30 minutes.

Just checking that it's all dry

and there's no wet patches, because with roller sets, there likes

to be that sneaky little wet patch that will flop your whole style.

For the curls to hold their shape, the rollers must be allowed

to completely cool down before being removed.

10 minutes!

Is that going to be enough, Laura?

Yeah, no, it will be fine.

Still a little bit wet.

-Well, blow on it.

-Come on then.

Come and blow on it for me.

Just trying to style it out now.

But I'm not sure what to do, to be honest with you.

I'm not too far off.

If I say so myself, I think I've done all right.

I like the curls I've created, and I was a bit worried that I dried

it too much, but it's kind of softened up as I've pulled it out.

It's still a little bit wet on one side,

just really disappointed in myself.

It's like my mum.

That's it, guys. Time's up.

Thank you very much.

Annie, step back!

The judges will be assessing the quality of the curls,

and the bounce of the set, and the symmetry and shape of the haircut.

Let's go to Ebuni first.

Ooh! It's fallen out of it at the back, the curl.

It dried really, really hard, so I tried to pull it out to make

it look a bit more, but I think I overdid it a little bit.

You overpulled it.

-You stretched it out while it was still actually quite hot.

-OK.

So in fact when you took the rollers out,

-you should have waited a little bit longer.

-OK.

What are you doing now?

I'm going to wet their hair down to check for precision.

Two hours it took to do that, and he's destroyed it.

-Yeah, he's destroyed it, yeah.

-30 seconds.

Would you do this to a client?

I don't have to check for a client, I know that it's good.

-Because it will be perfect, because it's a Pichon.

-Oui!

The balance is pretty good.

The hair comes to the same length at the front.

Let me check the top layers.

You can see you've missed that, quite a few bits there. All right?

It's a little bit straight on the edges,

it's almost like it didn't dry.

The minute I do that, and actually feel it,

actually a good set in there.

Yeah, the only thing about the cut is that you have lost the whole

length of the sides.

It's just your angle.

Just change your angle to keep that length.

So, good cut, yes or no?

Well, not sufficient, really, for what we were asking.

Well, straightaway, I can see some fishhook ends.

You can see that's crinkled on the end.

So that's where it caught, but it's looking a little bit lopsided.

Maybe if we shake it up a little bit and move it.

You see, you haven't exposed these. Look at that.

-It was in there hiding.

-Your lines are clean, it's a clean job.

So it's not a bad effort.

-Oh, dear. It didn't dry, did it?

-No.

-And it's completely straight hair.

Overall, the set just didn't work.

-It's mainly the front that you left too long.

-OK.

-And made you not cut enough on the angles.

-Sure.

Let's dissect it, Denise and Alain.

I like the effect that you built into the curl. Beautiful texture.

But it's fairly even and the distribution works really well.

It's got a fabulous bounce. Let's feel the weight line here.

Very good.

-Her actual shape is there.

-So, what is the overall verdict?

-Yeah, really good.

-Really good, very good.

-Cool, thank you.

Katie, don't look so disappointed!

The top section was great, you got a nice height in it,

but you pulled it down at the back, which has caused you to collapse

-a little bit and lose your shape.

-Mm-hmm.

Your length in the front is good, you know.

Your angle is pretty good, OK?

-She's definitely wild.

-I know!

-Yeah. You've got a nice bend in there.

Just lost it on the height here, and it's completely flat,

-so it's just lost the bounce.

-The angle is not strong enough.

And you didn't cut enough, I'm afraid.

The judges must now rank the stylists for their efforts,

from top to bottom.

-This line is not good enough, should have been stronger.

-Yeah.

You've got to think, we're amateurs at the end of the day, it's not going to be perfect.

And the haircut here, look, we've got a whole big chunk that looks like it's been bitten.

I've no idea where I'm going to be, top or bottom, anywhere, nothing!

No idea.

The higher the stylist is ranked,

the greater their choice of hair for the next round.

I think I am worried about the ranking, yeah,

it's going to determine what happens tomorrow, so hopefully, I'm

maybe somewhere in the middle, where I can still have a selection of

hair types.

-OK, we know now.

-Sorted.

-OK, we know which one it is.

The judges have reached a decision.

In bottom place this week is...

..Laura.

Yup, I was expecting that.

In sixth place this week is...

..Annie.

'Kobi is fifth, Ebuni fourth and Katie third.'

-Pleasantly surprised?

-Shocked!

-Yeah?

Obviously, it's between Marvin and Dominika.

First place is...

-Dominika. Congratulations. Well-deserved.

-Thank you!

-Fabulous work.

-Oh, so glad!

'So, Dominika will have her pick of the hair for tomorrow's

'freestyle challenge.'

I can reveal that tomorrow's freestyle challenge is...

..making hats out of hair.

-Wicked!

-You will be making hats out of hair, competitively, tomorrow.

So, let's make our way to the board here.

-Is one a man?

-Is one a man? There is, he's a guy, look.

Dominika, you came first in the blockhead challenge.

-I'm going to go for D.

-Yup.

Brown hair, very long, medium thick, yeah, should be good to work with.

Laura, you got the guy. I think it's a good thing, it's exciting!

I'm not sure what he's going to look like with a hat on his head,

-but we'll give it a go.

-I can't wait to find out. Have a good night, OK?

I'll see you tomorrow.

-So, big day yesterday. Who shone for you?

-Dominika, for me.

-She is a talent, isn't she?

-She is, because she plans what she is doing,

she thinks it out and she is very together.

Who is struggling a little bit?

Laura, yesterday, wasn't very happy with herself, even the setting,

-the finish of it.

-Annie is struggling a little bit.

She was weak in the cutting and setting.

-Overall, I'm worried for Annie.

-Good morning, good morning!

-ALL:

-Morning!

It's the big one! The challenge is to make hats out of hair.

My advice is, make sure that you use the model's real hair

within your look.

The hat by itself has to have a defined shape

and also a very beautiful finish.

So, remember the brief, because we will be judging on that.

So, Fez, Fedora, Porkpie, do what you've got to do.

But remember, make it extraordinary.

Time to work your magic, you have three hours, the clock starts now.

Off you go! Good luck!

Hi, I'm Annie.

I'm Dominika.

So, I've never worked with a guy with long hair,

but I'll treat it as I would anything else.

The pressure is on, because at the end of this round,

the judges will be sending someone home.

Lovely thick hair, haven't you?

As well as using hair extensions, the stylists can use

any of the other materials available in the prep room.

Is that a thing?

I've never heard of that before, making a hat out of hair, this is new to me.

It can't be new to you, you're a model, you see models on the

catwalk, with incredible creations that look like hats, and they're hair.

Are we doing more towards weird, or just well crafted?

Whatever shape they are going to create, it has to be beautiful,

as far as the height, the element of texture, the element of shine.

The most important thing is we don't want to see two hours in that

preparation room making steel frames and things like that, that they

just come out and plonk on the head. They have to work the hair.

My plan is to create a character,

so I'm going to think Tim Burton, Johnny Depp, I love the film

Sweeney Todd, it's going to be sort of like a demon barber,

but he's going to be a tailor.

Annie, what's the plan? Tell me.

I'm looking for a Russian style hat,

but, like, the Nicole Scherzinger style.

-Lady's hat, good, she is a lady.

-She is a lady!

-That works a lot better.

-Have you worked with this hair type?

-Never.

So, you know what you can and cannot do when it's been relaxed chemically?

Don't really know much about it, but I'm learning as I'm going along.

That's what it's all about.

I think the texture is going to work really well with the hat,

I think it's going to hold it really well.

Annie won't be using any props or frame in her Russian hat.

Instead, she plans to create a fur effect using a difficult

technique called rickracking.

This technique involves using these pins here.

Hold it in quite tight to the hair. Then, you just braid it through.

Figure of eight.

The pinned hair is then heated with a straightener

and once taken out will be tightly curled in zigzags.

When we take them out, it looks really cool.

I'm making the rim of my hat,

so it's going to literally sit on her head, like that.

Just kind of cover the edges and make it so it doesn't stab her head.

Which is always a good thing!

Katie is taking inspiration from Alice in Wonderland.

-What's the plan, what is the design of the hat?

-The Mad Hatter's hat.

-So, how are you going to make it?

-I'm going to use...

I've made my rim, which is this bit. Which goes onto the plait.

Then the model's hair is going to be making up the rim.

-Incredible hair, isn't it?

-Beautiful.

-Were you happy with your choice?

Yeah. 100% grey, virgin hair. I like this colour myself!

It's not actually grey hair, it's white hair.

Each single hair has lost its pigmentation

and that's how it becomes white.

-Right, OK.

-I'm very excited to see the result.

The overall plan is to have, like, an amazing fascinator,

turning hair into, like, feathers and nice spiky things.

So, quite effective, hopefully it's going to work!

Dominika will be making a feather topped fascinator by interweaving

-red and burgundy extensions with the model's own hair.

-Beautiful hair.

And it's a great length.

How are you going to deal with that amount of length?

I'm going to be going for a very high ponytail,

with a bit of wire in the middle to make it bulky,

and from there, it will go kind of like feathers.

What are you doing?

It looks like you're attaching hair to a piece of cardboard!

Yes, this is the brim of my hat,

it's going to start dark at the base, then lighter at the ends.

-Oh, OK.

-Kind of like the Mad Hatter goes to Miami.

-Wow.

-Where did Miami come from?

-The big floppy part on the sun hat.

Beautiful.

Well, that's an interesting mind you have there, Marvin!

-So, you've started already?

-Yes, starting.

Have you got a strong look in mind?

-Yes, my idea is going to be a big, big button.

-Big button?

So, are you going to integrate some of the model's hair?

Yes, this bit here will be coming through the four holes,

actually joining the button onto the hat.

Kobi will be making his button out of florist's foam,

wrapped in hair extensions.

-KOBI GASPS

-A button!

-Same as me!

-Is it?

-Yup.

-What are you doing with yours?

-Covering it in hair.

-Are you doing that?

-Yeah.

Basically, I just saw Laura's, she's doing a button also.

So, I'm just going to have to make sure that when I do mine,

it's better!

Oh, no! Oh, no! It's fine, it's fine, it's fine.

-Cool, thank you.

-Ebuni is taking her inspiration from a children's book.

I'm making a Cat In The Hat top hat.

What I'm going to do is use the top half of her head to create a

cane row for my structure to sit on, so hopefully it's nice and secure.

Then the back, I'm going to backcomb it, to get all of that

volume and shape, to hopefully make her a little bit more catlike.

And how are you finding this hair texture?

Because it's quite curly and...

Yeah, so I'm just using the small crimpers to put in some texture.

-So, you're turning European hair into...

-Afro-Caribbean, kind of.

-Absolutely.

-I'm just trying to make it a bit more obedient.

-So it works well.

-Yes.

As well as crimping the hair, Marvin is adding hair extensions

and backcombing the whole lot into a beehive,

which will form the top of his sun hat.

In this challenge,

it's very important that you put the model's real hair into the hat.

It has to be in that structure, somewhere.

It can't just be a fake head of hair, moulded onto a hat

and plonked on top of the head.

Katie is making the top of her hat by covering chicken wire

in black, grey and white synthetic extensions.

Mine is looking slightly Halloween!

-THEY LAUGH

-It's OK, it's OK.

Pfft!

Dominika is working on the centre of her fascinator.

I backcomb it, then I put the wire,

then I wrap the wire with elastic, tight.

So then, I put the plait around it, and I should secure it,

it should be fine.

The fascinator will be topped with feathers made

-out of the model's natural hair.

-So, I used a very strong hairspray.

And then, with straighteners, I just slowly smooth it across,

so when it gets heated, it just seals together.

And then, you kind of have this plastic effect.

Oh, wow!

That looks so cool.

Having finished rickracking the model's hair,

Annie brushes it with a stiff natural bristle brush to

create a texture that resembles fur for her Russian hat.

She then moulds and pins it into shape.

So, I'm just going to put a few extensions in at the back.

So, this is supposed to look like her actual hair underneath the hat.

Just trying to fix it in as best I can.

Katie is using the model's natural hair to form the brim of her hat.

I've got to get this right, dress the curls and get the hat on,

which is looking a bit Herman Munster-esque!

-I'm a bit worried about that bit.

-SHE LAUGHS

Sorry if I gouge your head, let me know!

Come on, come on, come on!

Ah!

It's so not going to the plan, this is so not going to the plan.

Dominika is using hair extensions, hairspray

and foil moulds to try to give her fascinator a felted look.

I'm just worried that I'm running behind the time.

-I'm late.

-What's going on?

-It wasn't drying.

I put the foil on top of it, to get the sharp shape,

and I thought it was going to dry underneath, the hairspray.

It didn't dry. So... Yeah.

It's kind of weird, seeing things not go according to plan for you.

We'll see.

The clock is ticking. 20 minutes left, guys. Get it done!

I'm going to change it, because it's not as clean as I wanted it to be.

I think it looks like someone has stabbed a needle

through his head, so I'm going to make it look a bit bloody!

Both Laura and Katie are using

temporary coloured sprays on their hats.

I'm hopefully spraying a pattern onto the hair. Wish me luck!

Let's see what we've got.

It's too big!

Marvin has miscalculated the size of the hole at the centre of his brim.

Back in a second. The model's hat is just a little bit too big.

So, I'm going to make an extra layer to go underneath the actual

base of the hat.

It's even better now.

-Hey, how are you doing?

-Hi.

-Whoa!

Can I ask you, where is the model's own hair, within this?

OK, so I did a braid at the top of the head,

and that's what it's sitting on. So, it's secured to that.

-Then her hair is all this around the side, as well.

-OK.

-So, have you put any of her hair into this hat?

-Not into the hat.

Not into the hat.

I don't know if they didn't like it,

I felt like they wanted your hair in the hat.

Oh, well, nothing I can do now. Well, there is another person who has done a similar kind of hat,

and theirs doesn't look like... I don't know.

Annie? Annie? Is any of her hair in that, or is it just...

-That's her hair.

-This is her hair?

-Yeah.

-Oh, wow.

Three minutes left, guys.

That's 180 seconds left!

Well, I don't really have any more extensions, but what can I do?

It is what it is, I'm just going to have to deal with whatever they have to say.

And time's up!

Step away from your models, please.

You're done.

Please wait patiently, judgment is coming!

Question, and my favourite one - does it wobble when it walks?

'Denise and Alain will be looking to see if the designs fit

'the freestyle brief, and if they stand up to 360-degree scrutiny.'

It could do...

Force eight gale, this is definitely a Cossack Princess that could

go right into the snow, and this is definitely a hat.

And I can feel fur,

so I think the rickrack technique was the perfect thing to do.

I like it very much, beautiful shape, it's a Cossack hat, you can

see the inspiration, you know, this is what it's all about,

this is what we asked for and you delivered it.

It flows, the whole thing flows.

You've got the real hair, you've got the fake hair coming through,

in fact, I felt that the fake hair was the real hair.

-So there is a complete flow, it's completely...

-It's fantastic.

-Is that a wobble? Am I seeing a wobble?

-No, that's a flow!

What's the difference?

-A wobble is insecure, and a flow is the flow of the hat.

-OK.

Love the size, love the proportions, you have utilised the hair.

There is an element of My Fair Lady in there.

But the only thing is, the finish underneath,

because underneath the hat is very important,

and underneath here, I can see the cardboard.

So overall, the finish is a little bit untidy.

Yeah, it's not defined,

it's not refined as much as we'd like to see, you know?

-So, the big question, is it a hat?

-Is it a hat?

It's on the edge of it.

I would define it as a big doughnut as much as a hat.

It is on the edge of being a hat, but you have used the model's

own hair, incorporated that into the design,

which carries all the way through the back, so the continuity is good.

The two flow into each other.

Is it exactly what we want? We will have to debate about it.

I can't see the model's own hair through this hat.

You could have incorporated this beautiful hair through this, but you've had this fabulous hair

and you've literally just rolled it up.

I tried to backcomb it, but I wasn't really strong with it.

It looks like you've just hidden it.

It is a hat, but the model's own hair is not in that hat.

That's right.

-Fascinator.

-This is a fascinator. This is absolutely a fascinator.

-Which is a kind of hat.

-Which is a hat as well.

If you've never seen one made out of hair, this is it.

The technique was really well applied, well done.

I'm not sure myself if I would have cut it at the base,

I know you wanted to feel it properly.

It would have been nice to see it a little bigger,

a little bit more shape, because this is gorgeous to see.

The finish is absolutely beautiful.

-You incorporate hat and hair all in one flow.

-Very defined.

I can't see pins, I can't fault it.

-I will take them away while the going's good!

-Thank you.

-She could definitely go to the tea party!

-I love it.

I love the finish, the fact that you have two different textures,

curly and the hat over the top, I love the rim, the way you have

utilised her own hair into it, it's very regular, you just have to

define it a little touch to make a perfect roundness, but very little.

And then, you've put the top, the top is incredible,

because of the colour, because of the texture, and I love the stencils.

This is one of the best,

if not the best Mad Hatter made out of hair that I have ever seen.

Where does this lady end and the crazy begin?

-No visible signs of it being secured.

-Where is the join?

She's done it so beautifully, you can't see the join.

-OK, there is one pin.

-I knew you were going to get that!

-She got it.

-Did you see it?

-No!

Can I just say, there is only one other person in the room that that hat would suit.

-This guy, right here. We were all thinking it, come on!

-Absolutely.

Come on, I've got to try it on... Not today!

-Really watch... watch your eyes, Denise!

-Yes.

-I am struggling to see hat.

-OK.

So, I was going more fascinator than hat.

Yeah, a fascinator for a man would be difficult to accept,

-to a certain degree.

-It's supposed to be a needle in a button.

It's a needle in a button? OK.

It's more like a scaffolding pole fell from the sky,

went right through a Polo mint and just caught you!

-Why didn't you put it here?

-I think it's just the placing...

Because if I was to move it...

I mean, it's very solidly done, but if I were to move this...

-Don't listen to the crack! In actual fact...

-I think that was his skull!

In fact, there is a cleaner shape there, so in actual fact,

you could create a great shape here, it's still a bit too feminine.

OK.

OK, guys, you know what comes next.

It's the tough bit, the judges are going to put their thinking

caps on and they are going to decide who has just won the freestyle

round and who is about to go home.

So, take five, we'll see you in a bit.

I really want to stay, like, I'm just loving the experience,

-so for me to go home, I would be so sad.

-I don't know if it was good.

I think it was to a high standard, but if it wasn't a hat,

it didn't fit the brief, so, technically, I could be going home.

I don't feel safe at all, actually, and I don't think they got it,

I don't think they were in the world that I was in.

So, a bit disappointed, but I don't think they understood.

So, someone is about to win the freestyle round.

-Who are the front runners?

-Well, three have really impressed me.

-Annie, Dominika and Katie.

-Annie has come from nowhere, hasn't she?

She had a disaster in the blockhead round.

Annie has really pulled her socks up,

she has risen to the challenge, and it was beautiful,

she used a fantastic technique, it was excellent.

-She really did come from the bottom up.

-But, who is leaving?

That's what I want to know.

Well, I would say that Laura is definitely in trouble.

She was very strong in the first round, in the plaits,

that was stunning and absolutely beautiful.

-But on the set, just didn't reach the mark.

-Anybody else?

Ebuni, definitely, on the last challenge,

she didn't pull it off, let's face it.

Also, we believe Marvin, just on the edge,

it looked good from the top, it could have been a lot more refined.

He has a problem finishing the hair, I think.

Clearly, you have some tough decisions to make.

We have, because to choose the winner is definitely a tough task.

And to choose the loser, too.

Let's just say a bunch of tough decisions,

and we'll leave you to it.

I'll get out of your hair. Rather you than me!

So, I think if we've narrowed it to two...

-The hairdressing element wasn't in there.

-Yup.

-The haircut wasn't up to shape.

-Yeah.

-Very different.

You might have made up your mind. I have.

Well, firstly,

thank you all so much for your hard work over the last couple of days.

You really have dazzled us with your creations.

However, one of you has shone a little brighter than anybody

else in the freestyle round.

And that person is...

..Katie.

Congratulations.

-APPLAUSE

-Well-deserved. Fabulous.

-Happy with that?

-Yup. Very!

-You deserve it, it's fabulous. Fabulous.

So, that brings me to the yucky bit. The bit where we lose one of you.

The judges have decided that the person we are losing this

week is going to be...

..Ebuni.

-Sorry, Ebuni.

-It's all right. Thanks, guys. Yeah, I'm good.

That was the hardest decision, between Ebuni and Laura,

-it was very difficult.

-Literally, it was a hair between them!

An absolute hair.

But the thing with Ebuni was, she didn't listen to what we said,

saying that you had to incorporate hair into the style.

I definitely thought I was going home,

so at least I've got another chance to sort of prove it to myself,

I think, I definitely want to show the judges I can do it.

I think I deserved to stay this week, yeah.

It's good for me, yeah, winning the challenge. Really good!

I'm disappointed.

With the hat, I thought, maybe, yeah,

but I didn't do so bad with the cutting or the braids,

so I thought that would equal it out, but I'm just a beginner, an

amateur at this, so I'm proud of myself for making it this far.

'Next time on Hair...'

Is it a beehive?

I can't work under pressure.

I'm just hacking at it now!

SHE SQUEALS

Period drama could be any period in the history of the world.

I don't know whether the blue is cheapening it, or the blue is making it.

It could headline a major fashion show.