Let's Do Lunch James Martin: Home Comforts


Let's Do Lunch

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The heart of my home is the kitchen

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and it's here that I love to cook delicious meals

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for my nearest and dearest.

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-ALL:

-Cheers!

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There's no better way to celebrate everything good in life

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than sharing some great food with the people you love.

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These are the dishes that I cook when I want to bring people together.

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These are my home comforts.

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My kitchen is the ideal place

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to rustle up something hearty and nutritious.

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But when I'm away from home,

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sitting down to a well-cooked meal can be much trickier.

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These days, our hectic lifestyles mean that so often,

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we never get a chance for a decent lunch

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and just settle for the occasional soggy sandwich.

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Well, not any more.

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'Today, I'm showing you how to do lunch properly.

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'I am creating a tray bake that's perfect to pack up...'

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It's a wonderful lunchtime treat, this.

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'..providing living proof

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'that even the fussiest kids can be converted...'

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My favourite packed lunch was a banana and Flake sandwich.

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'..and reuniting with an old Ready Steady Cook rival

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'who persuades me to break out the bandanna.'

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I look like an old version of Karate Kid.

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SHE LAUGHS

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But first, I am heading Stateside for a hot deli delight

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that'll satisfy even the hungriest of appetites.

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It's a New York-style sarnie cooked in a paper bag.

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Now, of course, sandwiches are a normal lunchtime thing,

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but this one takes it to a different level.

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It is a toasted pastrami sandwich, with Fontina cheese

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and some lovely cucumber and dill pickle.

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The first thing I'm going to do is make that pickle.

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Now, you need a particular vinegar for this.

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This is rice wine vinegar.

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Some people call it Japanese rice wine vinegar.

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It's much milder than malt vinegar.

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It creates a very quick and simple pickle.

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So what you need is a glug of that.

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Then just warm it up.

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This pickle is so straightforward.

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Add sugar, salt and black mustard seeds

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to the warm rice wine vinegar,

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then thinly slice some cucumber.

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The thing is with this is make plenty,

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because this cucumber will keep

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for a couple of weeks in the fridge as well

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and you can also have this with things like fishcakes

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and cooked crab, that kind of stuff.

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It's brilliant.

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Add the pickling liquid to the sliced cucumber

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and let it infuse.

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Now, this is classed as an instant pickle,

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so you can almost eat this straight away,

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but it wants ten minutes, just sat there,

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absorbing all that nice mixture.

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Now, I'm going to use sourdough for this.

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I'm going to just toast a few slices of sourdough.

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Now, chop up some dill and chuck it in with the pickling cucumbers,

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but don't add it too soon, or the dill will discolour.

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Now, over in the States, in these New York delis,

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I've had pastrami with a little bit of rye bread,

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but sourdough is perfect for this.

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You want something that is full-on in flavour,

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but also something that doesn't go soggy.

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That's why I'm toasting it first of all,

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because you can make this the night before.

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Parcel it up, take it to the office,

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and either reheat it in the microwave or chuck it in the oven,

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and you have an amazing hot sandwich.

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Spread wholegrain mustard on your toast

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for a little added kick.

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Now onto the pastrami. It doesn't always have to be beef.

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I've had this in America - it's made out of turkey,

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sometimes with mutton as well, but generally, it's done with beef.

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Now I know if you are just tuning in,

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you're just seeing me making a ham and cheese sandwich.

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But just hold on a minute. I haven't finally lost it.

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Of course, it's about this dill pickle,

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that combination between the meatiness

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and that lovely freshness with the pickle.

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If you get as hungry as I do at lunchtime,

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you'll need a double-decker.

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See? That looks pretty good enough to eat as it is.

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But remember we are going to warm this through in the oven,

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so for that, we can wrap it up.

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My favourite packed lunch was a banana and Flake sandwich.

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That was it. Mainly because nobody wanted to share with me

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so I could eat the entire lot by myself.

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Unlike this sandwich, which everybody will want to try.

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Better wrap it tightly, then, using grease-proof paper and string.

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This is how my nan used to wrap my Christmas present -

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in brown paper, just like this.

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This is great to take to the office and warm up in the microwave.

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To finish off your sarnies,

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set your oven to 160 degrees Celsius and leave them for ten minutes -

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the perfect amount of time to get cracking

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with some quite special crisps.

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I'm actually going to make my own, using some parsnip and a few carrots,

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and all we do with that is just peel it

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and just keep peeling and peeling and peeling.

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Now you can, of course, make this with any root veg -

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beetroot works really well,

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just stains your hand and stains the chopping board -

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but carrots and parsnips, I think, work best.

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These are just fantastic to use up any leftover root veg

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you've got in the garden or at home, really.

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They taste so much better than a standard packet of crisps

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and they are quick, too.

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Just give them a couple of minutes in a deep fat fryer.

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Now, the key to a really good veg crisp

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is not to have the oil too hot, cos you want the water,

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which is inside the veg, to steam off -

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that's what's happening here - then crisp up.

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If the oil is too hot,

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it browns and then you just end up with a soggy crisp.

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When the carrot resembles orange peel,

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the veg crisps are ready.

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So, these are nice and crisp.

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Of course, we just need to salt this, which will crisp them up even more.

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Just roll them around.

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The hard bit is not scoffing the crisps

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before the toasted parcels are ready.

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Now, trust me, if you do this, you'll be the envy of the office,

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because it smells delicious.

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It's lovely and moist inside, which is exactly what you want,

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and you have a pile of your veg crisps to go with it.

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It may be only a sandwich, but how good does that look?

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If you've never tried pastrami before,

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it really is delicious.

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It's one of the best lunch sandwiches that I have ever tasted.

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Lunches will never be the same again in the office, trust me.

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Banana and Flake sandwich - what was I thinking?

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Thankfully, I've moved on since then

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and this hot, crunchy sourdough,

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wrapped around a pastrami and pickle filling,

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is better than anything I could have dreamt up as a kid.

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If you are after a healthy lunch, then fruit is a great option.

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But you don't have to stick to the usual supermarket suspects.

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Father and son Robert and Simeon Medway

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are on a mission to get more British apricots

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onto our supermarket shelves.

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And their HQ is in this much-loved British resort.

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The Isle of Wight has been part of my life

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as early as I can remember, really.

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My father was born on the island

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and he used to bring us across,

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so it's happy memories, always happy memories.

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When Robert's father passed away, he wanted to invest his inheritance

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in something that would be a fitting tribute to his dad.

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So he and his wife made another trip to the island.

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I came looking for a holiday home. We were looking round the island.

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We read in the County Press

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that there was the possibility of a cherry orchard coming up for sale.

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We walked around and within two hours,

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we'd bought the orchard.

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So it was a very exciting prospect.

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Exciting for him, maybe,

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but Robert's son Simeon was less keen.

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Dad came home one day and said,

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"By the way, I've just been on holiday

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"and I have just bought a cherry orchard."

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"Oh, great(!)"

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But Simeon soon embraced the idea -

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so much so that, back in 2010,

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he and his dad bought another plot of land

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and branched out into apricots.

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This was originally a vineyard.

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It wasn't successful and it had fallen into disrepair

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and so we made an investment to plant 6,000 apricot trees.

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Five years on and the Isle of Wight sunshine

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has finally worked its magic.

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The trees have matured

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and some are really thriving in the British climate.

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The apricots that we are growing are quite a lot bigger

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than we'd initially anticipated.

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This is what you tend to see on your supermarket shelves

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and this is the size of some of the fruit we are growing at the moment.

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You know, you get a lot more juice in the actual apricot.

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It takes three to four days to get the fruit from orchard to shop

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and the delicate business of harvesting must be done by hand.

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The pickers are trained.

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They have colour charts to know the ripeness

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and a size chart as well, to know the size.

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I guess they have a nibble now and again,

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which, of course, we don't mind at all.

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Hm...I'm not too sure I want Robert to catch me snacking.

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When it is picked and packed, some of the fruit

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then goes to local businesses and supermarkets on the mainland.

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The shops reject up to 30% of the apricots

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because they are not considered "pretty enough".

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They are just as tasty, though,

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which is why they have teamed up with local jam maker Erica Oulton.

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She's come along to the orchard to rustle up her apricot jam

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for Robert, Simeon and the gang.

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What I am using today is some second-quality apricots.

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They have got marks on, but if you just cut that off,

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there is no mark underneath.

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So it is absolutely wonderful for this purpose.

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We should say this is not the ideal place to make jam!

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SHE LAUGHS

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But, having said that, jam can be made anywhere.

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Even on the windy, but still very lovely, Isle of Wight.

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A few miles away, jars of the finished product

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are on sale in a hut run by Robert and Simeon.

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The jam is a hit, as is the fruit itself.

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Scrumptious.

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Very fresh and juicy. Lovely.

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Very nice. Very juicy.

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I could eat lots more.

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Back up in the orchard,

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Erica has won her battle with the weather.

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Her jam is now ready.

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Well, I can't think of anything better.

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Never mind strawberries -

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there is nothing like apricot jam on scones

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on the Isle of Wight.

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After a busy morning in the orchard,

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none of this lot are likely to disagree.

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Delicious.

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Very good.

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So their first bumper crop of fruit is a success.

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Yeah...

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It feels such an achievement to actually see the trees,

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having planted them in the ground, six years ago,

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tending to them, to actually seeing the fruit come off the trees.

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You appreciate something much more when you have actually done

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the labour which has resulted in this lovely, lovely flavour.

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Well, seeing all that mouthwatering locally-grown produce

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has inspired me to get back into the kitchen.

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Which is just as well, because midday is fast approaching

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and I could do with a sticky and satisfying treat.

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Now, just because it's lunchtime, it doesn't mean that you can't have

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something nice and sweet to taste afterwards.

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I am going to do, like, a frangipane tart.

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Frangipane is a combination of almonds, sugar, eggs and flour.

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First of all, we've got some shop-bought sweet pastry, here,

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and what I need to do is line the tin.

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With a tartlet, you would normally bake the pastry blind,

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which is, you pre-cook the pastry before you add the filling,

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but I find anything with frangipane, and this mixture that goes with it,

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it's much better, I think, if you basically slowly cook it.

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Only for about half an hour, but it cooks the base as well.

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Otherwise, you can overcook the pastry underneath.

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Now, we are going to line this with a little bit of silicon.

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It is a good idea to butter this first -

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it sticks the paper to the bottom,

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makes it much easier to work with.

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This is so we can lift it out after it's cooked.

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Now, on with our pastry.

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This is shortcrust pastry.

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If you overwork it, particularly over-roll it,

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it will shrink.

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Sprinkle a little flour on a cold surface

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before you roll the pastry out.

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What you have to do is make sure it is nice and thin.

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Once you get to that stage, take your rolling pin, roll it up,

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and then what I do is just roll this over the top.

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Then, basically, just use your fingers...

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..to press it down into the edges.

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Just trim off the pastry that you don't need.

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It's a good idea to use a table knife,

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rather than a chef's knife,

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cos otherwise, you're going to cut the paper.

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Once you have trimmed the pastry,

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stick it in the fridge for five minutes.

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Next up, for our frangipane.

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200g of butter, 200g of sugar to start with.

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It needs to be soft butter for this, because it needs to whip up.

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Cream the butter and sugar by putting it into a mixer.

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Once it has gone pale, add a couple of eggs.

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Cracking them one at a time will ensure it doesn't separate.

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What you end up with is a nice batter.

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You must finish off the rest of it by hand

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and I have got the same quantity of flour in here,

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then I'm going to use 125g of ground almonds.

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You can use ground hazelnuts for this as well -

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it is entirely up to you.

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But that classic combination of frangipane

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is generally always done with almonds.

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Just a touch of baking powder

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and then all you do now is just chuck the whole lot in.

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Then this bit is really, crucially important.

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You mix this in by hand.

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Don't, whatever you do, chuck the flour in

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while it is still on the machine.

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This is why Granny's biscuits always tasted really good.

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Not just my gran's but most people's,

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because they always used to make them by hand.

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And cakes as well - you'd put them in the mouth and they'd almost dissolve.

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You didn't need to bite them or crunch them or chew them.

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So, we have mixed that together.

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Now we can prepare our little apricots.

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De-stone and quarter the fruit, then set them to one side,

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ready to top this glorious lunchtime dessert.

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Now, I have actually just recently bought myself an apricot tree.

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There is no fruit on it, yet,

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but I am hoping in maybe a year or two's time, I may get a crop.

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Now, I am actually going to incorporate the frangipane

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with a touch of apricot jam as well.

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Now you can take the tray out

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then scoop out this apricot jam

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and just basically spread this nice and evenly over the base.

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I like to use the same sort of jam as whatever fruit you're putting in.

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It's entirely up to you, really. You can mix and match it,

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but I think it tastes just as good with raspberries or strawberries.

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Then, of course, grab our frangipane as well.

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You can just dot this over the top.

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And then, using a palette knife...

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..we can just spread this over the surface.

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With frangipane, what appears very, very thin

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will almost double or triple in size when it is cooked.

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Got to make sure it's nice and even.

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Now, this isn't a mixture that spreads very well

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when it's in the oven, so you've got to get this bit right first.

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Then, with our apricots, we can just...

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..eat one, but put them on the top.

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Don't push them down, otherwise you will lose them

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when the cake rises in the oven.

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And we just bake this now for about half an hour.

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Half an hour for the kitchen to fill up

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with that fabulous baking aroma

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and for me and Ralph to do a bit of cleaning up.

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How good does that smell? Fresh out of the oven.

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Just leave this to cool and then just slide it out of the tin.

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Now, the great thing about this is that it lasts all week.

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What I mean by that is that essential oils,

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oils from the almonds, keep the cake nice and moist,

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and that's what you want.

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By rolling the pastry out nice and thin and cooking it that way,

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the pastry cooks, the jam stays in there,

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keeping it nice and moist as well, but it's all about the frangipane

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and the delicious apricots.

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It's a wonderful...lunchtime treat, this.

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And a good tip - I wouldn't keep this in the fridge.

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It firms up the butter of the frangipane

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and it doesn't taste the same.

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Just pop this in a tin, just how my granny used to have it,

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right at the top of the fridge.

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Wherever you choose to store your cake,

0:18:200:18:23

I'm sure Granny would agree

0:18:230:18:24

that the tangy apricots and luxurious frangipane

0:18:240:18:27

make the perfect midday treat.

0:18:270:18:30

Lunchtime luxury -

0:18:330:18:35

it's been a British tradition for generations.

0:18:350:18:38

Our Victorian ancestors were especially keen on it,

0:18:380:18:41

as food historian Ivan Day is discovering

0:18:410:18:44

at Harwood House near Leeds.

0:18:440:18:46

Nowadays, our midday meal is often enjoyed on the hoof

0:18:470:18:53

in that quick moment as we escape from the office.

0:18:530:18:56

But in grand houses like this in the 19th century,

0:18:560:19:00

lunch could be a very extended affair.

0:19:000:19:03

I am going to prepare two lovely luncheon dishes

0:19:030:19:07

of the kind that would have been enjoyed here at Harwood.

0:19:070:19:11

First of all, a wonderful dish of lamb cutlets with cucumber,

0:19:110:19:17

and then a beautiful Strawberry Charlotte.

0:19:170:19:21

For the lamb cutlets, I'm going to use a recipe

0:19:250:19:28

from this really marvellous book...

0:19:280:19:32

..which was compiled by a master chef

0:19:340:19:37

called Theodore Garrett in the 1890s.

0:19:370:19:41

It was such a large collection of recipes

0:19:410:19:44

that it occupied eight full volumes.

0:19:440:19:48

It contains thousands of recipes from contributing chefs.

0:19:480:19:54

I suppose you could call it the Saturday Kitchen of its day.

0:19:540:19:59

I think that's a compliment. Thanks, Ivan.

0:20:010:20:04

Anyway on to the lamb cutlets,

0:20:040:20:06

which he seasons, then coats in egg and breadcrumbs not once, but twice.

0:20:060:20:10

After that, the cooked cucumber is ready to be drained

0:20:140:20:17

and sauteed for a few minutes in butter and parsley.

0:20:170:20:20

The cutlets are then fried

0:20:210:20:23

using an ingredient the Victorians were rather partial to.

0:20:230:20:27

They loved cooking in lard.

0:20:270:20:30

Lard is superb if you want to cook anything crisp in,

0:20:300:20:33

because it cooks at a very high temperature,

0:20:330:20:36

so we just need to melt this

0:20:360:20:38

and just get a nice blue smoke coming off it.

0:20:380:20:41

The origins of the word "lunch" are lost in time.

0:20:450:20:49

One theory tells us that it is derived from the word "nuncheon",

0:20:490:20:54

which actually is derived from an earlier word, "noonschench",

0:20:540:20:57

a meal in the middle of the day.

0:20:570:21:00

For the second dish in my lunchtime revival,

0:21:010:21:05

I'm going to make a Charlotte using finger biscuits, strawberries,

0:21:050:21:12

and a delicious, freshly made strawberry jelly.

0:21:120:21:15

This recipe is also from

0:21:150:21:19

the Encyclopaedia of Practical Cookery,

0:21:190:21:22

and there is a very good chance

0:21:220:21:24

that it could have been made in this very kitchen.

0:21:240:21:27

That is because one of the contributing authors

0:21:270:21:30

to the Encyclopaedia was a French chef called Louis Lecomte,

0:21:300:21:35

who worked in this very kitchen for the Earl of Harwood in the 1890s.

0:21:350:21:41

With Lecomte's ghost looking over his shoulder,

0:21:410:21:44

Ivan puts a mould into a bowl of ice, which will help the Charlotte to set.

0:21:440:21:50

The first thing to go into the mould

0:21:500:21:51

is a small amount of the freshly made jelly.

0:21:510:21:54

So, the next stage -

0:21:550:21:57

and this is the tricky bit, cos it can be like

0:21:570:21:59

a pack of dominoes, if you don't watch out -

0:21:590:22:01

is I'm going to make a pattern

0:22:010:22:05

using these sponge finger biscuits.

0:22:050:22:08

They were originally for dipping into wine.

0:22:090:22:11

That's why they are that shape, so they fit into a wine glass.

0:22:110:22:15

Because I have got a little bit of jelly in the bottom,

0:22:150:22:18

they will stick.

0:22:180:22:19

With the biscuit construction in place, it's then a matter

0:22:240:22:27

of carefully layering the jelly and strawberries into the Charlotte.

0:22:270:22:32

Back in Victorian times,

0:22:320:22:34

this would have to be done quickly, or else.

0:22:340:22:37

What I found fascinating, and a bit eerie, about this kitchen

0:22:370:22:42

is that Monsieur Lecomte, who was a bit of a hard taskmaster,

0:22:420:22:46

had his bedroom and office up there, behind that window

0:22:460:22:51

and he used to watch the staff

0:22:510:22:53

and if they were slacking, he used to bang on the window.

0:22:530:22:57

So I think I had better watch out and just get on with it.

0:22:570:23:00

I've worked under chefs like that myself.

0:23:020:23:04

After it has been left to set,

0:23:040:23:06

the Charlotte must be turned out with care.

0:23:060:23:09

Voila!

0:23:130:23:14

That is not enough. I have to garnish it.

0:23:150:23:18

And what a garnish -

0:23:190:23:20

whole strawberries speared on a skewer.

0:23:200:23:24

Traditional and tasty.

0:23:240:23:25

That is my final cutlet, so we need to get it plated up.

0:23:290:23:33

So, there we have it - a perfect luncheon for an earl.

0:23:430:23:47

I must say that this looks really appetising

0:23:470:23:51

and I'm sure even an earl

0:23:510:23:53

would pick up a cutlet as good as that with his fingers.

0:23:530:23:56

It's perfect. Absolutely tender. Great flavour, too.

0:23:590:24:02

I'll try the cucumber...

0:24:030:24:04

Mmm - just melts in the mouth.

0:24:080:24:10

So, let's see what the Charlotte is like.

0:24:120:24:15

That is just the essence of summer. It's absolutely superb.

0:24:170:24:20

These Victorians really knew how to cook lunch.

0:24:210:24:25

Some of that 19th-century food may have tasted good,

0:24:300:24:33

but the preparation could take an age.

0:24:330:24:36

Nowadays, we like to get our meals to the table a little bit faster,

0:24:360:24:40

which is why this chicken recipe

0:24:400:24:41

should definitely be part of your lunchtime repertoire.

0:24:410:24:45

Now, if time is precious and you're looking for something

0:24:450:24:48

that is quick to eat, then this dish is perfect for it.

0:24:480:24:51

A Cordon Bleu, which is basically a combination of two things, really.

0:24:510:24:56

It's always done with a Swiss cheese, either Emmental or a bit of Gruyere,

0:24:560:24:59

anything that melts really nicely, and then we've got some ham.

0:24:590:25:02

We've got some traditional ham, here. You could, of course, use prosciutto.

0:25:020:25:06

The first thing we need to do is prepare our chicken.

0:25:060:25:08

For that, it's nice and simple - always use a chicken breast for this,

0:25:080:25:12

because you want a nice escalope and for this,

0:25:120:25:14

what you need to do is open them out.

0:25:140:25:16

I always think you're turning this from a chicken breast into a heart,

0:25:160:25:19

if you think of that.

0:25:190:25:20

I like to use skinless chicken breast for this but traditionally,

0:25:200:25:23

it would have been done with veal, of course.

0:25:230:25:26

I love the history of where the term Cordon Bleu comes from.

0:25:260:25:30

It's actually a French term, or translates from a French term,

0:25:300:25:33

meaning "blue ribbon".

0:25:330:25:34

The knights of the realm in France used to wear the blue ribbon

0:25:340:25:38

and it's thought this dish got its name from the chef's apron,

0:25:380:25:43

from that, the blue ribbon on the chef's apron.

0:25:430:25:45

That's what I like to think, anyway.

0:25:450:25:47

What we're going to do is just take our piece of chicken, like that.

0:25:470:25:50

We want to make this about twice the size

0:25:500:25:53

and the easiest way to do that

0:25:530:25:55

is to put it in-between layers of clingfilm.

0:25:550:25:58

Now, the reason we want to make it nice and thin

0:25:580:26:00

is we want this to cook quite quickly.

0:26:000:26:02

So just use a rolling pin.

0:26:020:26:04

Just bat it out, carefully.

0:26:040:26:07

The breasts need to be the same thickness

0:26:070:26:09

all the way round, so they cook evenly.

0:26:090:26:12

You can lift off the top layer of clingfilm - looks good to me.

0:26:160:26:20

Then we can fill this.

0:26:200:26:22

Now, we are going to fill this with some Emmental cheese.

0:26:220:26:25

You could, if you want to, grate it.

0:26:250:26:27

I think a decent bit of cheese is actually really good for this one.

0:26:270:26:31

Chuck that in.

0:26:310:26:33

Some of your ham.

0:26:330:26:35

A bit of black pepper...

0:26:350:26:37

Now, depending on what ham you use,

0:26:380:26:40

just got to check to see what the salt content is.

0:26:400:26:43

So, just a little bit of salt and then we can fold this over.

0:26:430:26:46

Now, dip the chicken parcels into seasoned flour,

0:26:480:26:51

followed by egg and panko breadcrumbs to seal it.

0:26:510:26:54

And now, we can turn our attention to cooking it,

0:26:570:27:00

because this cooks quite quickly - only about six to eight minutes.

0:27:000:27:03

So you grab plenty of butter.

0:27:030:27:05

Now, the definition of shallow frying is "to half immerse in fat".

0:27:050:27:10

Just a little bit of butter.

0:27:130:27:15

It's really important you cook the escalope in butter and not oil,

0:27:150:27:18

because the oil will brown the breadcrumbs too early

0:27:180:27:22

and you can't tell whether the ingredients inside,

0:27:220:27:26

either chicken or veal, is cooked.

0:27:260:27:28

Put this on sort of a medium heat.

0:27:280:27:29

And then as soon as the butter has melted,

0:27:310:27:33

then put the chicken in.

0:27:330:27:36

Just keep it on one side.

0:27:360:27:38

Do not, whatever you do, start prodding it, turning it.

0:27:380:27:42

Just leave it alone.

0:27:420:27:43

Leave it alone for about four minutes.

0:27:430:27:46

It takes some restraint, but the results are worth it.

0:27:460:27:49

Do NOT turn them over until the butter goes nutty brown

0:27:490:27:52

and the undersides are nice and golden.

0:27:520:27:55

Now you need to keep coating this in the butter,

0:27:550:27:57

because it keeps it nice and moist.

0:27:570:27:59

The key to, I think, a good Cordon Bleu

0:27:590:28:02

is to have it still moist all the way through the chicken and not dry,

0:28:020:28:07

but the butter does its job.

0:28:070:28:09

And you can see that - as I am just gradually cooking it,

0:28:090:28:11

this butter starts to change colour.

0:28:110:28:14

Cooks everything really nice.

0:28:140:28:16

When the chicken is almost cooked,

0:28:160:28:18

drop some French beans into a pan of hot water.

0:28:180:28:21

I'm going to serve them how I have it,

0:28:210:28:23

not how my nan used to do it...

0:28:230:28:25

..where you'd put them in your mouth and they'd dissolve.

0:28:280:28:31

Just a little bit of a bite to them - not too much.

0:28:310:28:34

My nan may not have approved of flaked almonds on green beans,

0:28:340:28:37

but we always agreed they should be tossed in -

0:28:370:28:40

yes, you guessed it - plenty of butter.

0:28:400:28:42

Then you have got your nice piece of chicken.

0:28:420:28:45

Slice it through the centre.

0:28:450:28:47

We've got this combination of cheese, melted, and the cooked ham.

0:28:480:28:54

I love its simplicity, its taste...

0:28:540:28:57

It's like the best chicken nugget ever.

0:29:000:29:02

Not that I've ever eaten a chicken nugget.

0:29:040:29:06

You know what? I really like this dish.

0:29:070:29:09

You've just got the melted cheese and the nice, moist chicken,

0:29:090:29:12

which is exactly what you want.

0:29:120:29:14

Just tastes great. What more do you want?

0:29:160:29:19

OK, it may be a little retro, but this buttery chicken,

0:29:190:29:22

packed with goodies, remains a classic.

0:29:220:29:25

What's more, you can rustle it up in ten minutes flat.

0:29:250:29:29

Variety is the key to keeping midday meals interesting.

0:29:340:29:37

Sam Moorhouse saw a gap in the market

0:29:390:29:41

and decided to use his dairy herd in North Yorkshire to exploit it.

0:29:410:29:45

Our family have been dairy farmers for generations.

0:29:470:29:50

We've been at this farm specifically for 40 years, my dad and my grandad.

0:29:500:29:54

My dad started with 60 cows.

0:29:540:29:56

We've steadily built up since then and now, we milk 180 cows.

0:29:560:30:00

When milk prices fell,

0:30:000:30:01

Sam had to think about diversifying the family farm.

0:30:010:30:06

I was looking into rare breeds, actually,

0:30:060:30:08

for another idea I'd had for diversification

0:30:080:30:10

and I came across skyr whilst reading into an article

0:30:100:30:12

about the Icelandic cow.

0:30:120:30:14

Skyr is a traditional dairy product from Iceland

0:30:140:30:16

and it is basically somewhere between yoghurt and cheese

0:30:160:30:19

and as I saw it was low in fat, high in protein, low in sugar,

0:30:190:30:22

I mean, it suits the market in the UK at the moment

0:30:220:30:24

and not only that, it just sounded like an interesting thing.

0:30:240:30:27

So Sam seized the day and jumped on a plane to Iceland

0:30:290:30:32

to see if he could find out more.

0:30:320:30:35

I hadn't actually tried it before

0:30:350:30:37

so I suppose I was kind of risking it in that area.

0:30:370:30:39

But I actually got off the plane and it was for sale in the airport,

0:30:390:30:42

so I just went up and bought a few tubs of skyr

0:30:420:30:44

and just tried it out there and then.

0:30:440:30:46

And obviously, I liked it - I really liked it.

0:30:460:30:48

It was good, so I just carried on,

0:30:480:30:50

to find out how it was made in Iceland.

0:30:500:30:53

His quest for the authentic recipe,

0:30:530:30:54

once consumed in great quantities by the Vikings,

0:30:540:30:57

brought him face-to-face with the godfather of skyr,

0:30:570:31:01

Thorarinn Sveinsson.

0:31:010:31:03

I'm a dairy engineer, born in Iceland.

0:31:030:31:05

In fact, I'm the second generation,

0:31:050:31:07

because my father was a dairy technician,

0:31:070:31:09

so if I cut myself,

0:31:090:31:12

you'd probably get milk out of the veins instead of blood.

0:31:120:31:15

But don't try it!

0:31:150:31:17

If there's one thing Thorarinn knows, it's skyr.

0:31:170:31:20

He knows the texture, how it should taste,

0:31:200:31:21

he knows what you should do.

0:31:210:31:23

And since I met him there, we've got on well -

0:31:230:31:25

he's been mentoring me for the last year and a half

0:31:250:31:28

on how to make skyr and how to get this business going.

0:31:280:31:31

Sam is now putting all those Icelandic skills

0:31:330:31:35

to good use back in the UK.

0:31:350:31:37

He aims to launch his skyr

0:31:370:31:39

at a prestigious food trade show in a few days' time

0:31:390:31:43

and the pressure is on.

0:31:430:31:44

It is quite a labour-intensive process.

0:31:470:31:49

It takes roughly about 20 hours to produce a batch

0:31:490:31:52

from start to finish.

0:31:520:31:54

Skyr is made out of skimmed milk,

0:31:560:31:58

so that's the reason it's got no fat and everything like this.

0:31:580:32:00

But you take your skimmed milk, you add skyr cultures and rennet,

0:32:000:32:04

culture it into a curd and drain it

0:32:040:32:06

and you end up with a really thick, yoghurty-type product.

0:32:060:32:09

These specific cultures can be traced all the way back

0:32:110:32:13

through most of Iceland's history for thousands of years.

0:32:130:32:16

They use the old batch to make a new batch, that kind of thing.

0:32:160:32:18

And it is the addition of this rennet,

0:32:200:32:22

normally used in cheese-making,

0:32:220:32:25

that gives skyr its unique, velvety texture.

0:32:250:32:27

Yoghurt is a completely different category.

0:32:270:32:30

Skyr is really, under international statistics,

0:32:300:32:33

skyr is classified as cheese.

0:32:330:32:36

You can eat skyr on its own,

0:32:360:32:38

but what we are doing is mixing it with fruit.

0:32:380:32:40

If you want to use it in cooking, you can mix it up into, like,

0:32:400:32:43

a coriander and chive dip or something like that.

0:32:430:32:45

You can make cheesecakes from it.

0:32:450:32:47

It is, like, an incredibly versatile product.

0:32:470:32:49

But creating authentic skyr requires a lot of hands-on process

0:32:490:32:54

and techniques that have perfected over generations.

0:32:540:32:57

Sam is doing it all on his own.

0:32:570:32:59

So, does he have what it takes?

0:32:590:33:02

It's a huge commitment to do it

0:33:020:33:03

and when I got the first phone call and talked to him on the phone,

0:33:030:33:07

I was pretty sure he wasn't going to make this commitment.

0:33:070:33:10

But he saw the potential in making skyr.

0:33:100:33:13

Gradually, I thought this young farmer from the UK

0:33:130:33:18

was...a-a serious guy.

0:33:180:33:21

With the launch only a few days away, Thorarinn has flown in from Iceland

0:33:250:33:29

to see if Sam's skyr meets his exacting standards.

0:33:290:33:33

Thorarinn! How are you? You have a good trip?

0:33:340:33:38

I'm very excited to see what you have been doing.

0:33:380:33:40

We'll go inside and try it, then.

0:33:400:33:42

This is a critical moment.

0:33:450:33:46

The consistency looks good on the hand,

0:33:490:33:52

but it's not being consumed by the hand,

0:33:520:33:55

so I think I will wipe it up, like this,

0:33:550:33:57

and then take it into the bowl.

0:33:570:33:58

It's shiny, a good smell -

0:34:030:34:05

obviously, the culture has been working very well.

0:34:050:34:08

In my opinion, this is a very good product,

0:34:080:34:11

so congratulations.

0:34:110:34:12

I think you have passed the test.

0:34:120:34:14

Good to hear, good to hear.

0:34:140:34:16

So it's thumbs up from Thorarinn

0:34:180:34:20

and a huge relief for Sam to share the success with his family.

0:34:200:34:24

-All right.

-Cheers.

0:34:240:34:25

There has been a really positive reaction to the skyr

0:34:260:34:28

and everyone seems to enjoy it.

0:34:280:34:30

-Really creamy.

-Really tasty, yeah.

0:34:300:34:32

Confident now to get it to Harrogate Fine Food Show,

0:34:320:34:36

get it out there so everyone can try it, really.

0:34:360:34:38

It's almost as perfect as I have done it myself.

0:34:390:34:42

Really? Is that right?

0:34:420:34:44

It's very close to that, so I have to applaud him one more time.

0:34:440:34:48

When I was Sam's age, I was being RSC trained.

0:34:530:34:56

Well, I was on Ready Steady Cook,

0:34:560:34:58

competing against my friend and chef Lesley Waters.

0:34:580:35:02

-Hey!

-Hello! How are you?

-How are you doing? Are you all right?

0:35:060:35:10

-Good to see you.

-You've met little Ralph?

0:35:100:35:13

Hello...!

0:35:130:35:14

-How are you?

-Come on in.

-Nice to see you.

0:35:140:35:17

Are you coming?

0:35:190:35:21

Today, it's a bit of a first,

0:35:230:35:24

because Lesley and I aren't on opposite teams

0:35:240:35:27

but cooking lunch together.

0:35:270:35:29

We are going to make this incredible-tasting

0:35:290:35:31

Middle Eastern-inspired pork dish - colourful, flavoursome, beautiful.

0:35:310:35:37

Right, Lesley, welcome to my kitchen.

0:35:370:35:38

-Fantastic.

-Which do you want?

-That one.

0:35:380:35:41

It's all right, this matches my eyes. That's all right, that matches yours.

0:35:410:35:45

What we're going to do is we're going to go visit the Middle East...

0:35:450:35:48

-Great!

-..via Morocco and do a little tabbouleh, really,

0:35:480:35:51

and do that with a nice bit of pork.

0:35:510:35:54

-So we'll do a marinade for the pork.

-OK.

0:35:540:35:57

I love tabbouleh.

0:35:570:35:58

I think this is perfect for lunch, nice, light lunch.

0:35:580:36:01

The great thing about this salad,

0:36:010:36:02

you can mix and match whatever you want in it.

0:36:020:36:04

Have you soaked that already?

0:36:040:36:05

It's been soaked for two hours, this one.

0:36:050:36:07

-This is bulgur wheat, of course.

-Yeah.

0:36:070:36:09

A lot of people use couscous, and I just think...

0:36:090:36:11

I am not really into couscous.

0:36:110:36:13

This is really nice, because it's kind of nutty.

0:36:130:36:15

Yeah. It tastes much better as well.

0:36:150:36:17

First thing we are going to do is a dressing.

0:36:170:36:19

If I can get you to chop up a little bit of coriander.

0:36:190:36:21

OK. A bit of mint?

0:36:210:36:23

-A little mint as well.

-Yeah, OK.

0:36:230:36:25

We normally used to spend, what, 15 years

0:36:250:36:28

at opposite ends of the bench, really, didn't we?

0:36:280:36:31

-Competing against each other.

-Absolutely.

0:36:310:36:33

We weren't the competitive ones, were we?

0:36:330:36:35

What are you talking about? YOU were competitive!

0:36:350:36:38

I remember Brian Turner used to go out and see the audience,

0:36:380:36:41

you see, and if they were a certain age,

0:36:410:36:43

Brian Turner stood a chance of winning. Remember that?

0:36:430:36:45

I do remember that. Good job he's not here.

0:36:450:36:48

-So just do a nice little marinade for this, all right?

-OK.

0:36:480:36:51

So, this is our pork.

0:36:510:36:53

You know, I was thinking about the first time we met.

0:36:530:36:57

I remember this.

0:36:570:36:58

That studio is now gone. It used to be called Carlton Studios.

0:36:580:37:01

I remember going there, cos we used to do some filming,

0:37:010:37:04

and I remember leaving the studio and I was loaded full of bags

0:37:040:37:07

and I was waiting...

0:37:070:37:09

And to be fair, I was quite a smart little nipper back then.

0:37:090:37:11

I had a shirt and tie on and a suit. I was...

0:37:110:37:14

To be honest, I did look like a porter,

0:37:140:37:17

but we were outside a studio and I stood there with my bags

0:37:170:37:20

and this really blacked-out Mercedes came along with blacked-out windows.

0:37:200:37:25

I was obviously getting in a taxi and this car came round like that

0:37:250:37:29

and then this certain lady got out of the car...

0:37:290:37:32

Yeah.

0:37:320:37:33

..and just turned round, gave me a glance and went,

0:37:330:37:36

"The bags are in the back if you can bring them in."

0:37:360:37:39

-I can't believe I did that to you.

-And you walked straight through.

0:37:390:37:41

-I tell you what it was...

-That's what it was, wasn't it?

-No!

0:37:410:37:44

I'd met you once before, but you had the bandanna on

0:37:440:37:46

and you didn't have your bandanna on.

0:37:460:37:48

I was confused.

0:37:480:37:49

I found it. I found it especially for you - look.

0:37:490:37:52

-Are you ready?

-Yeah.

-SHE GASPS

0:37:520:37:54

This...this is an antique. Look at this.

0:37:540:37:57

I bet that's worth a bit of money, now.

0:37:570:37:58

I used to make these. People didn't realise I made these.

0:37:580:38:01

This was a bit of old...

0:38:010:38:02

I think this was a pillow case, something like that,

0:38:020:38:05

cos I couldn't afford to buy a bit...

0:38:050:38:07

-Is that true?

-So you thought I bought them.

0:38:070:38:09

-I did - I thought...

-No! I didn't go around

0:38:090:38:12

in blacked-out windowed Mercedes and stuff like that.

0:38:120:38:14

-Are you going to put it on for me?

-This is... No, this is...

0:38:140:38:17

I look like an old version of Karate Kid.

0:38:190:38:22

SHE LAUGHS

0:38:220:38:24

And people wonder why I don't wear this now. How is that?

0:38:240:38:27

It's good, but you look much more handsome without it.

0:38:270:38:30

THEY LAUGH

0:38:300:38:32

Right, I'll leave the bandanna back in the '90s

0:38:340:38:36

and concentrate on today's pork marinade.

0:38:360:38:40

I'm adding ground coriander, cumin, sumac and za'atar

0:38:400:38:43

to fresh herbs along with some extra virgin olive oil.

0:38:430:38:46

Meanwhile, we will just do our pork loin here.

0:38:480:38:51

Actually, James, it's really nice to cook with you

0:38:510:38:54

and to relax, isn't it?

0:38:540:38:56

Normally, you have Ainsley Harriot going, "Nna-nna-nna-nna!"

0:38:560:38:59

"Just get away! I'm busy, get off."

0:38:590:39:01

I always used to be the one that he'd come over to first.

0:39:010:39:04

-I know. It was the girlie one, yeah.

-I'm sure you paid him to do that.

0:39:040:39:08

No, I didn't.

0:39:080:39:10

But it was one of those things,

0:39:100:39:11

"Just get out of the way, get out of the way, I'm busy."

0:39:110:39:14

Without Ainsley interfering, we'll rattle through this recipe.

0:39:140:39:18

It's already time to put the pork in the marinade.

0:39:180:39:20

Leave it in there for five minutes so it takes on all the flavours.

0:39:200:39:25

-That looks good.

-That is your pork.

0:39:250:39:27

We'll leave that to marinate. Now for our tabbouleh.

0:39:270:39:30

-I'll chop everything up.

-You going to do the pomegranates?

0:39:300:39:33

Yeah...I knew I'd have to do this, you see.

0:39:330:39:36

-You're a strong man.

-I know my place.

0:39:360:39:38

The best way to do that, I just whack it with a spoon, really,

0:39:380:39:41

the back of a spoon.

0:39:410:39:42

-The seeds come straight out.

-Ah...that's a good way.

0:39:420:39:45

-See? Always learning.

-Absolutely.

0:39:450:39:47

This is another one for your cook school.

0:39:470:39:49

-You've still got it? Still doing your cookery school.

-Yeah.

0:39:490:39:52

14 years on, still doing it.

0:39:520:39:54

What we do is cut it into quarters

0:39:540:39:56

and then we put it in a bowl of cold water

0:39:560:39:59

and the seeds float to the top.

0:39:590:40:02

-But I think that way is much better.

-Less washing up.

-Don't get clever.

0:40:020:40:05

Remove the pomegranate seeds - your way -

0:40:070:40:09

them finely chop tomatoes and spring onions

0:40:090:40:12

and chuck them into the bowl.

0:40:120:40:14

Now, this is the key, I think, to tabbouleh.

0:40:140:40:16

You need as much filling as you do mixture,

0:40:160:40:19

if that makes sense.

0:40:190:40:21

-We need lots of...

-Mint.

0:40:210:40:23

Mint, coriander and parsley. Bucket-loads.

0:40:230:40:25

I think you are right about this.

0:40:250:40:27

I remember years ago, when I first made it,

0:40:270:40:30

and it had few ingredients in it

0:40:300:40:34

and then I went over to a mate's, who is Egyptian,

0:40:340:40:36

and he had made it, and you could hardly see the cracked wheat.

0:40:360:40:39

I mean, it was just all green.

0:40:390:40:42

Tonnes and tonnes of flavour, isn't it?

0:40:420:40:43

-Tonnes and tonnes of flavour.

-Yeah.

0:40:430:40:46

Now, this would make a fantastic lunch,

0:40:460:40:48

because it is nice and light, quite healthy actually.

0:40:480:40:51

Well, you know, true.

0:40:510:40:53

-But I'd have had about three bacon butties before then.

-No!

0:40:530:40:56

You'd probably need something like this.

0:40:560:40:58

SHE LAUGHS

0:40:580:40:59

-Right - honey and pomegranate molasses.

-Ooh!

0:40:590:41:02

That is the dressing for this one.

0:41:020:41:04

Then a decent amount of good-quality olive oil.

0:41:040:41:08

So mix all that together.

0:41:080:41:09

I will get on and fry this pork off.

0:41:090:41:11

Fry the marinated meat in a non-stick pan for two to three minutes.

0:41:130:41:17

While that's cooking nicely,

0:41:170:41:18

add the chopped herbs, bulgur wheat and dressing and mix in well.

0:41:180:41:23

-Look at that - that looks great.

-That does look beautiful.

0:41:260:41:29

Smells fantastic.

0:41:290:41:30

-I'm going to throw in some almonds.

-How easy is that? Oh, yeah.

0:41:300:41:33

This is the great thing about this - you can put things

0:41:330:41:36

like almonds, pistachio nuts, hazelnuts, that sort of...

0:41:360:41:38

-Oh, you've toasted those as well.

-No, I just bought them like that.

0:41:380:41:41

I picked up the wrong ones on the shelf.

0:41:410:41:43

I'm going to try this, now.

0:41:430:41:45

Mmm...

0:41:450:41:47

Happy with that?

0:41:470:41:49

Oh - horrible(!)

0:41:490:41:50

-Absolutely delicious.

-Is it all right?

0:41:500:41:52

-Stick it in the bowl.

-I like the almonds in it, actually.

0:41:520:41:55

Just chuck all the pork in.

0:41:560:41:59

This is really great cos you've got none of that...

0:41:590:42:01

For a lot of people cooking lunch, you've got none of that having to cook vegetables.

0:42:010:42:05

It's all there in the dish, isn't it?

0:42:050:42:07

-Looking fabulous.

-The brilliant thing about this is,

0:42:070:42:09

I always think, that it never deteriorates

0:42:090:42:11

even if it is out of the fridge.

0:42:110:42:13

Take it for packed lunch, would be great.

0:42:130:42:15

A bit of cheese in it, a bit of chicken, a bit of fish.

0:42:150:42:17

-Want to take that, I'll take this?

-Yeah, OK.

-Lovely.

0:42:170:42:20

Lunch is the perfect time to excite your palate

0:42:220:42:25

with fresh and vibrant flavours.

0:42:250:42:28

Great dishes like these are ideal to plate up or pack up

0:42:280:42:31

and enjoy wherever you are

0:42:310:42:33

and in keeping with tradition, I think Lesley should give this dish

0:42:330:42:38

its very own TV name.

0:42:380:42:40

What would you call this on Ready Steady Cook?

0:42:400:42:42

-We always used to think of stupid names.

-Oh, no.

0:42:420:42:45

Cracking - as in cracked wheat - Crackingly Good...uh...

0:42:450:42:52

..Pork Tenderloin.

0:42:520:42:54

HE CHUCKLES

0:42:540:42:56

You can find all the recipes from the series at...

0:42:570:43:00

We were all so young, then, weren't we, when we did that?

0:43:030:43:06

Thanks(!)

0:43:060:43:07

I've got bandanna on my brain, now.

0:43:080:43:10

I think you should bring out a range.

0:43:100:43:12

No, it's leaving me scarred for life, is that thought.

0:43:120:43:14

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