Made in Belfast Jigs and Wigs: The Extreme World of Irish Dancing

Gavin Doherty is Belfast born and bred.

But he's forged an international reputation as an Irish dance teacher

with the Doherty Petri School, which has classes in Belfast and New York.

He's also one of the top names in Irish dance dress design,

setting the trends every season.

It's one thing to get to the top,

but it's another trying to stay there.

Growing up in a terraced house in North Belfast during The Troubles,

Gavin and his two sisters immersed themselves in Irish dance.

Growing up, I remember you'd hear shooting in the background

and Mummy and Daddy would shout, "Get away from the windows!"

Everybody would lie on the floor for a while until it was OK again.

Looking back, it was crazy,

but we were so heavily involved in the dancing

we didn't have time to even understand what was going on.

I think our parents shielded us so much from that,

I think that's why they wanted to keep us involved in dancing

and would do anything to make sure that we stuck at it.

In the '80s, boys had to wear kilts for Irish dancing,

making Gavin an easy target for bullies.

There were times I wanted to quit and didn't want to do it any more

because I didn't want to be bullied.

So, you know, again, it was getting to that point

where the dancing meant enough to me

that the bullying didn't matter any more.

In the mid '90s, Gavin reached his competitive peak,

placing third in the world.

He was a very strong, athletic dancer.

Very powerful, great rhythm and very assured in himself.

He knew what he was trying to do himself,

Perhaps because it was one of his last years,

he knew exactly what he wanted to try and achieve.

I think that's Gavin.

It's the same way in how he developed his business -

he knows what he wants

and he will quietly work towards that and just go for it.

Over the course of his competitive career,

Gavin's mother built a small business making Irish dance costumes

and the creative possibilities appealed to Gavin.

I went to my mum's studio for my lunch

and there was a lady there with her daughter who had said,

"Is there no design with a phoenix in flames?"

And I was sitting and I said, "Mum, I can draw it, I can draw it."

I was basically told to sit down and shut up!

The lady said, "No, why can he not draw it?

"Can he draw it?"

So, eventually Mum gave in and let me do it.

It was a green travera dress

with the white phoenix and the flames along the bottom of it.

That first dress contained motifs

which remain part of his signature style

and can still be seen in his dresses today.

Whenever I was drawing in the house,

it was always Celtic animals, Celtic birds.

That was just what I loved to do.

I love painting and if I had the chance, and I had the time,

that's definitely what I would go back to trying to do.

This afternoon, Gavin's working with his design team

and has his hands full overseeing every pattern

that leaves the factory.

But much has changed since his early days working from home.

When I first started,

I used to hand-draw the designs on the costumes.

Then people used to come to my house

and I would have it on the floor for them to look at.

They'd pick one and I'd hand-draw it on to the costume.

Then it would go to somebody else to get embroidered,

and then somebody else to get put together.

So, actually, this is a much better way for the customer because...

it makes it much more visual for them.

It's five o'clock and, upstairs in the dance studio,

it's time for class.

Really? What time is this?

Get up!

Control the top half, remember.

This is our class where we have all the kids together

so they can all feed off each other.

Tomorrow night, it's split.

We do a lot of drills.

It's just easier to keep them altogether,

plus the younger ones are able to see the older ones.

It gives them something to work for.

Plus, it pulls the whole class together

when we have them together in one group.

-What do you want?

-First.

-I can't hear you.

-First.

Right, show me what you're going to do to get first. Go!

Nice attitude at the end. Come on!

'These kids, they bounce off each other and push each other.

'There is that bit of competition.

'Nobody wants to be last, but it's friendly competition.'

Point, point, point it!

Good girl, good girl.

The likes of Shannon, I mean,

Shannon has been with us since she was seven or eight years old

and Shannon's won the Worlds six times.

Most of these kids see us more than they would see their parents.

So you do have such a bond,

and you do have such influence over their lives.

It's nice to be their friend and be there for them,

as well as just being their dancing teacher

screaming and shouting at them every single night of the week!

Meanwhile, a late arrival has joined the class.

-What time did you arrive at?

-Six.

-Six! What time is dancing at, Ethan?

-Five.

Ethan Whyte is 14 years old

and lives in Carrickfergus with his grandparents.

He joined the Doherty Petri School a year ago,

having previously enjoyed success as a festival dancer

and is currently climbing the ranks in commission dancing.

I'm Ethan's Granda.

They call me Da, as do all my grandchildren, the five of them.

It's a very personal thing with me and Ethan.

We're very close.

He means a lot.

He always takes me to the classes for me to dance, five days a week.

So it is a lot of hard work for him.

He does get tired, but it's all

for me and my dancing.

When he came home to me from primary school

and asked me could he go dancing,

I just thought, "Yeah, let him do it."

But when the ability came,

and I saw what he had become and how natural he was,

I'd couldn't stand in his way.

I've always said to him, and this is nothing against plumbers or joiners,

but, "You'll never be a plumber or a joiner in your life, son.

"This is your life."

You listen to parents boasting about their children all the time,

but it's when he walked in and he started doing his reel.

Johnny and I just looked at each other and went,

"Wow, we've got something here!"

If I never had found dancing in my primary school,

I don't know where I would be.

Dancing is my life.

I love dancing and it's the only thing I think about.

That's it. That's it.

Bye!

There's no class tomorrow night.

We're having a staff party. Isn't that right, Curtis?

It's March 2015 and Gavin and his team

are at the World Championships in Montreal.

As well as showcasing his brand-new line of dress designs,

Gavin also has kids from his dance school competing this week

and has run into an early problem.

There's flights delayed in Heathrow.

We have parents that we're trying to get here for kids that are dancing,

not so much tomorrow, but the next day.

I think there's something like 50 or 90 people stuck in Heathrow.

Some of our staff are stuff stuck there.

We're trying to get this all set up and running before tomorrow

because, after that, I'm going to be running in and out,

trying to measure, trying to watch kids dance,

deal with customers, do everything.

But it's all part of the excitement!

I use my own dancers as guinea pigs because, at the end of the day,

if it's not right, it's only me that I have to face,

not a line of screaming parents that their dress wasn't right.

-What do you think?

-I love it.

-How did the practice come?

-Good.

-Really good or just good?

-Good.

What I like about Gavin's dresses

is they're very modern and I love the style.

The flame thing is really in right now.

I got a flame one recently and flame is all over the place, right?

He always brings in the new styles.

Everyone is always saying,

"I wonder what kind of styles Gavin will bring this year?"

Before the World Championships here,

we've come up with a number of new things that are different

than anybody has seen so far.

We've actually registered the designs this year

because what happens a lot is that you come up with the new ideas,

you spend so much time developing new things,

then, all of a sudden, other people copy it.

So I've had to take steps to try to make sure that that stops happening.

So, yeah, I'm excited and nervous for the new stuff that's coming out

and we just have to hope that it works.

But some of Gavin's bolder looks are not to everyone's taste.

For me, personally, some of the things

wouldn't be what we would put our dancers in.

I remember, at one of the Worlds, the skirt was a feather skirt

and you're thinking, "Oh, my goodness!"

You had to look at it long and hard and you thought,

"Yes, do I like it? Do I not?

"Yes, I think it works on that child,

"but I don't think I'd put it on one of our dancers..."

But, ultimately, it had the maximum effect.

One of Gavin's unique selling points is that he coordinates his outfits

with his top dancers on the day they compete.

This is my dancing outfits!

When I go to competitions, this is the wardrobe that gets used.

But it's all part of the fun.

Sometimes if I'm wearing a jacket that matches the kids' dress,

it makes them feel good and feel that they are ready

and that you have faith in them.

These are the trousers that I wore

when Sarah Lennon won the World Championship.

This jacket is the one I wore the first time

Sinead Carson won the World in Boston.

I think I've way too many shoes!

Sometimes the shoes come before the dress.

I see the shoes, I'm like, "OK, I have to have those,"

then I'll do the dress to match.

The flame shoes match everything, so they've been getting a lot of use.

I need to try to get them fixed.

CHEERING

The coordinating look seems to have done the trick

for the Doherty Petri School.

It has been an amazing week for us.

We're so happy that all our new styles came off so well

and we're inundated with orders, and thank goodness for that!

A lot of kids won the World Championships in our dresses.

I was looking at one of the presentations,

there were probably 80% of the kids in the top 20 in one of my costumes,

which was a very proud moment for me.

So, it's went really, really well.

Back in Belfast, several months have passed

and the dress orders keep rolling in.

Some of the manufacturing processes are in operation around the clock

and Gavin can turn his hand to anything on the factory floor.

Beth, can you do me a favour?

A couple of threads are not clipped on this.

Could you go back over those?

Most of my work now is involved with the designers and the design team.

Obviously, I can make every part of the dress,

so, basically, on a day if there is a backlog somewhere

and that area needs help, either I will jump on dressmaking

or jump on the machines even.

Just whatever is needed.

I like to just know that I can do every single part,

If we get a new machine or have a new process,

I like to know what it is.

Maybe that's just that bit of a control freak that I am!

Meanwhile, upstairs, Ethan is practising

for the Ulster Championships,

which is taking place in two days' time.

He came fourth last year - a remarkable achievement

in his first major competition dancing for Gavin.

Whenever I first walked in these doors,

the first thing I seen was the stamina throughout all the dances.

And then I tried my first dance -

couldn't do it, didn't have enough stamina for it.

I kept stopping until I built all my muscles up

and now I'm able to dance like a true champion.

-How's you?

-Good.

You all set?

-ETHAN SIGHS

-Why do you look so worried?

I don't know. I'm just freaking out for it.

Listen, you've done the work. It'll all be fine.

'When you have a boy that has that physique

'where you can lift your leg up to your head'

as a boy, then you're laughing.

As long as they have timing and rhythm and everything else,

it's hard to beat someone that has that natural ability.

But he needs to now get his head back together

and work and work and work on making sure the set dance is right.

I didn't actually see it when it happened.

Ethan had been given a brand-new set dance to learn for the Ulsters,

but he injured his foot on broken glass several weeks ago

and it's had a big impact.

'The problem is he hasn't had his heavy shoes on properly

'for two weeks now and there are things'

that aren't quite the way I would like them to be,

so we're just trying to put the finishing touches off

to try to get it sorted before we go.

One, two, three and...

Dah da dee dah...

Now pull across.

Dah da dee dah...

Again.

Dah da dee dah...

Up!

You didn't watch it.

Dee dah... Again.

You think that's enough to win? Cos I'm telling you it's not.

Gavin does put a lot of pressure on you,

but he does it to make you out a champion.

Dee dump dee dumpity diddly...

Up, over cross.

Exaggerate it. You look like you're afraid!

Dee dump dee dumpity diddly...

I know whenever I don't see his car here, I'm loving life.

I love it whenever he's not teaching,

but as soon as he walks through the doors as I'm about the dance,

I can't stop shaking in fear.

He is scary.

Dee dump, fight!

Dee dumpity diddly... Dee dump dee dumpity diddly... Go!

Sharp up. Up, up, up!

That's it!

Dee dump dee dumpity diddly. Dee dump dee dumpity diddly...

That's more like it. Go again.

MUSIC PLAYS

But, once the music begins,

Ethan runs into problems with his timing on the new set dance,

Do that piece.

MUSIC IS TURNED OFF

I'm really worried because you're missing bits.

It was all fine when you were in your trainers, but it's not right.

And I'm concerned that a day's not going to fix it.

I know you've been working and working on it.

I don't want you to think we think you haven't been working on it,

but with not having the shoes on, you haven't mastered it yet, OK?

With only two days to go before the Ulsters,

Gavin insists that Ethan reverts to his old set dance.

It could be a devastating blow, but Ethan tries to stay positive.

I am not that disappointed.

I'd rather just get a set done so I can try and win the Ulsters.

Putting a brave face on it, Ethan continues to practice.

While, downstairs, customers Joanne and Katie have arrived

to discuss some design options.

-Hello, how's youse?

-Gavin, how are you?

-What's the craic? How's you, Katie?

-All right.

Right, do you have anything in mind at all?

-I want to stay the same colours.

-Right, OK.

But, I don't know, if we go black lace on the arms,

will just look like the same dress again or...?

The last time I was away, I got another two pieces of black lace.

It was different and it was quite elegant-looking, you know?

Show me the photograph.

-There.

-That one? You can't really see it with the sashes on, but...

You know what's going to happen?

-I'm going to show you bits and pieces...

-I am going to say no.

..then I'm going to do it anyway!

And then I'm going to have a heart attack.

-This was...

-It looks like a sheep!

It does look like a sheep, doesn't it?

That's what it looks like before I start doing my stuff with it.

As Gavin gets excited about a new creative idea,

mum Joanne is feeling apprehensive.

You know almost that, sort of, ball gown?

It looks dark, but if you imagine

I had the design coming around the bottom of the skirt, as well.

-Like an evening dress?

-That sort of a look.

-Yes.

Stop panicking! Right, I know what I'm doing.

Leave the rest with me and I will get the design done on the computer

and we'll send it through to you.

I know... You don't need to panic

cos I know in my head what I'm doing, so...

I hope so!

Next day, Ethan is packing for the Ulsters,

which are being held in Letterkenny this year.

And he's keen to bring all the bare essentials.

This is my Minion onesie.

I'm actually quite attached to Minions at the minute.

I love them so much.

And I actually wanted a Minion for my birthday whenever I was younger,

but I just feel that I can be a proper Minion instead of having one!

I do sometimes feel like a child in school, I play chasies and all that,

So I do feel like a child.

But, in dancing, I feel like an actual grown-up.

I'm always grumpy and tired after it.

The day of the Ulster Championships has arrived

and it's been an early start for Ethan and grandad Ian

and Ethan is feeling the effect.

I've been up since 5:30am getting everything sorted

and getting myself ready.

Now I have to be at side stage at 7:30am.

So, I don't like the mornings.

I really don't.

Ethan's costume was designed by Gavin and is deliberately plain.

It means that they are not just looking at how you dress,

they're looking at how you dance.

I don't have to be blinged-up to be standing out,

I can just be myself and stand out.

-I do look the part, don't I?

-You definitely do, son.

And there's the nicest thing about you - your smile.

Not in the mornings!

No, you are definitely not a morning person, are you, son?

Nope!

But I would be nowhere else than be here with him.

So, yes, I'm very proud of him

and he will do well this morning, and today.

Ethan has the ability to go the whole way.

We just need all the stars to line up on the day.

OK, let's go. Gavin will be waiting on us.

-Can I get a coffee now?

-Most certainly you can.

Ulster is the strongest Irish dancing region in the world.

If you can win here, you can win anywhere.

Ethan, quite literally, has the world at his feet.

-IAN:

-When he's up there, it sends shivers into me.

It makes the hairs stand on the back of my head,

and I know they're seeing something

and I'm so proud of what he does.

Whenever I get on stage,

I get that pleasure of feeling that everybody is just watching me.

Instead of being trapped in a dance school, being with the teacher,

on stage I just feel free.

As long as he enjoys it, I'm happy.

But the same boy will be out to get first, and I think he'll do it.

I'm backing him.

Sure enough, Ethan's hard work and dedication pay off.

And he takes first at the Ulsters.

With a big win behind him, Ethan is confident about his future goals.

Whenever I'm not dancing, I just feel quite tight, in a close closet.

I don't know what to do with my life, I don't know what the work is,

but whenever I'm with dancing, I know exactly what I want to do.

I want to go out and win, I want to work with Gavin,

I want to do well with everything,

I want to be in Riverdance and all that.

In Philadelphia, it's also competition time.

And the Mid-Atlantic Oireachtas is underway.

Gavin has flown in to join his business partners,

Lisa and Karen Petri.

The Doherty Petri School was the first in the world

to establish a transatlantic merger,

when Gavin and his sisters joined forces with the Petris in 2013.

When the merger happened,

I think people would have found it very strange.

I think there was a lot of changes happening in Irish dancing,

with schools fragmenting and new mergers and things like that,

but to have a transatlantic one was something totally unheard of.

The whole merger was all about making it fun for us,

making a better school for the kids,

more to give them a life experience that we had when we danced,

that we felt our school had lost.

Because it was so focused on just competition.

Tonight, Lisa is being honoured for her 25 years

as an Irish dancing teacher.

First and foremost, I'd really like to thank my mom and dad,

Paul and Eileen Petri, the greatest parents ever.

APPLAUSE

They just encouraged us so much,

gave us every opportunity and so much support to help us

every step of the way with the dancing school.

Like the Dohertys,

Irish dancing is very much a family affair for the Petris.

And their parents play a big role in the business.

We couldn't do it without them.

Mom, between helping with costume alterations,

and Dad takes care of both of our studios in New York

and, yeah, we couldn't do it without them.

Lisa's husband, Scott, is also involved in the family business.

And downstairs, clients are lining up for a spray tan.

Irish dancing colour is nice, dark, natural, deep brown colour.

That's the right colour for the bright lights on stage,

so you're not drowned out.

Which is a very dark, unusual colour for anybody going to a wedding

or a normal just everyday spray tan.

So it's, er... It's different!

Next morning, and Gavin, Lisa and Karen have a busy day ahead.

We have 72 solo dancers

and five traditional set dancers here this weekend.

But they've come up with an innovative solution.

We have this Viber group

so that everybody knows what ballroom to be in,

but all the Belfast parents are on it at the same time,

they're sending pictures through of what's going on and the whole school

is keeping each other updated. It's just really, really nice.

But despite their best efforts to see all their students,

things don't always go according to plan.

I mean, you can see,

it's pressure and we're all running about crazy,

but we are all having a laugh and fun at it

and that was one of the things, whenever we did merge,

that we wanted to bring back into it for the kids.

That fun element of getting to travel, getting to go over

and experience something else, apart from just competition.

It's life experiences that we're trying to give the kids

as well as just competitive Irish dancing.

It's January 2016, and the World Championships are fast approaching.

Dance teacher Maria has brought daughter Blaithin to Gavin's factory

to get measured for her new dress.

OK, let's go.

Right, we'll take the clothes in the bag.

'At Clan McCole, our school,

'we get all our dresses made here with Gavin.'

No two dancers are the same, so it's all the time,

working very closely with him on that

and trying to get what best suits the child.

So, you know, I need something that...

she's short anyway for her age,

so we need to be thinking of a design to elongate her.

You know what I mean, it's not to cut her off.

'Sometimes in the earlier days in working with Gavin,

'when he would say, "This is gorgeous, this will work,"

'and I would look at it and I would say,'

"I really don't like it," and then we would agree, both,

to perhaps not to like it.

The first dress is this size and the next one is this one,

so this one will be a wee bit longer, won't it?

She is, finally!

'The climax of our dancing year is the World Championships.

'There is a lot of reveal, and we're all sitting with bated breath

'for all those dancers to walk out.

' "I think it's blue, it's purple, no, it's red,

' "they've red in their hair." '

That's what happens! Believe it or not!

And Gavin is all too aware of the need to create a stir at the Worlds.

He and his design team look to the catwalk for inspiration.

See, I love this. See this? Is this McQueen here?

I love his stuff, it's sort of... even that neckline.

I just, I'm sick looking at all this...

completely covered embroidery, it looks really heavy.

I just want to do something different. I'm bored.

I'm bored looking at the same thing over and over again.

'There's a number of dresses that we have booked in

'for the World Championships that the parents and teachers

'and children have just completely left up to us'

to do something crazy with, including the kids in our own class.

So I always find it interesting just to see what the reaction is.

I don't want to come out with 20 styles that all look the same.

I'd love sort of a vintage look which would suit, you know,

will suit that style of dancer.

We have so many fabrics in next door that we haven't actually touched

for a long time, and I'd really love to use those again this year.

Because what we have in there, nobody else has.

Gavin has always been ahead of the curve with his fabric choices.

And while he has bold new styles in mind,

they're not always for the dancers.

I'm going to need to get some new suits made,

because if we're going to change colours of dresses,

I obviously need to try and match.