Episode 9 Paul Martin's Handmade Revolution


Episode 9

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Britain has a long and proud craft heritage,

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with traditional skills being handed down from father to son,

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and mother to daughter, over many generations.

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But some of these traditional skills are under threat.

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Many risk disappearing for ever.

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If you want to help stop that decline, then join me,

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Paul Martin, in my Handmade Revolution.

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ALL: Hooray!

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We've been searching the country for Britain's very best amateur makers.

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Working with our hands gets us in touch with ourselves.

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And we'll be finding out just how important their items could be.

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It'd be fantastic to have my work recognised like that, yeah.

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'What they don't know is one of them will be given a life-changing opportunity.

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'A chance to see their work on display, at the spiritual home of handmade.'

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Today's Judges' Favourite is...

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Today, we're at the Amberley Heritage Centre in West Sussex.

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For centuries, this whole area was at the centre of the wool trade,

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so dyeing, spinning and weaving were all local traditions.

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Nowadays, Amberley is home to a host of inspirational craftsmen

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and craftswomen, who, like me,

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are all committed in keeping

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traditional skills alive.

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'This is about finding the antiques of the future

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'and I'll show you how to make a start in the ancient art of weaving.'

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Here we go.

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Not my fault, guv!

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Hundreds of you have responded to my invitation to come along today

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with a piece of your work, to show us what you're made of.

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As you can imagine, with some difficulty, we've whittled it down

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to five talented finalists,

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who will go before the judges.

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But remember, only one can be selected as Judges' Favourite.

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The stakes could not be higher,

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because one of today's hopefuls will be given the life-changing

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opportunity to see their piece on display,

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alongside the world's finest collection of decorative arts.

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I've been amazed at the response.

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But before we meet this week's finalists, let's meet the judges,

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who'll decide whether they've got what it takes.

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Mary Jane Baxter is a writer, teacher and milliner who is passionate about handmade.

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I just know there's real talent out there.

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I can't wait to see what we discover.

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Entrepreneur Piyush Suri is the force behind an organisation

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that champions up-and-coming designer-makers.

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I know there's so much talent out there.

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I see it every day.

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It's going to be brilliant seeing all this wonderful creativity and skilled workmanship

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Britain has on offer. I'm very excited.

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And our head judge, Glenn Adamson, is head of research at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London.

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Britain should be proud of its long history of making things by hand.

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I hope to meet people who honour that past,

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but are also exploring the future of craft.

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So, who's got the outstanding talent?

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'First in line is 51-year-old English Language lecturer, Nicole Pohl.

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'Outside the classroom, she's been trying her hand at weaving.'

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-Upcycling - bang on trend.

-For once in my life, yes, thank you.

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THEY LAUGH I am, yeah.

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How did you get into this?

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I started weaving a couple of years ago, but I'm also interested

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in the environment, sustainability,

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upcycling.

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-Upcycling has become very fashionable now...

-It has.

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-..but before the Industrial Revolution, it was a fact of life.

-It was.

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Everybody used to reuse their products.

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And so...

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I just want to know a bit more about your product choice,

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like material choice. Why plastic, only?

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Because... Actually, if you look very carefully,

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you see old fabric pieces, as well,

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which I found and can't use any more,

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so I use a combination of plastic and these bubbles,

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and fabric.

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So, not only with your work you're enjoying it, you're also sending a message to people...

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Yes, there was a point...

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..to try to upcycle and recycle whatever they can?

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Everything I use here is recycled,

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so there's an old T-shirt inside...

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and the ribbon, I found.

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These bubbles are out of a skip...

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from the Architecture Department where I work.

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Every single bit is recycled.

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You said "weaving".

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Isn't it a very complex process to do?

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No, this isn't complex at all.

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And I actually brought a little sample along.

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This is a peg loom.

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It's quite a primitive loom, but anyone can do this.

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I'll just use these to demonstrate.

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What you do is,

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I just weave it like this, around,

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and you can do it in all colours, with all fabrics.

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Where did you get this loom? Did you make it yourself?

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You can make this yourself, absolutely.

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You need to have sticks with little holes in them,

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where you put the warp.

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You could make it yourself. I got this second-hand.

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Are you selling these products?

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No. At the moment, not,

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because this is my hobby, so at the moment, I give these objects to my friends.

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If you want to make it more commercial,

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don't you think you have to use a table loom?

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I've never tried that with plastic. I would love to try that out.

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I've only done it with a peg loom, up to now,

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because of the thickness of the material.

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It would be very good,

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-because it would be more sturdy.

-Yes.

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The fabric would be better, with the plastic,

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because of the pressure you apply to that...

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-That's true.

-I do think that would be more commercially viable for you.

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-Fantastic! Good luck!

-Thank you very much.

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I think that was a really good tip,

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with mixing materials, to try it on a different loom.

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I didn't think about that.

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I have to admit, I do like Nicole's originality.

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She's helping the planet with her recycling.

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Look what can be achieved using simple techniques

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and cheap materials.

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I can see these bags being sold in small boutiques,

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perhaps with a price tag of £30 to £40.

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But will the judges think she's got what it takes?

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Our next self-taught amateur has been working with a much more traditional material.

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45-year-old David Barker is a full-time parent who spends

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the very little spare time he has working in wood.

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David, when I look at stools,

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I think of milkmaids and milking.

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So, convince me that this isn't for a milkmaid.

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The inspiration is really simple.

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Early in May, I was diagnosed with high blood pressure.

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So I spent an evening on the internet,

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researching all the natural ways to reduce it.

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And meditation was one of them.

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So I thought, "I'll make a meditation stool."

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I had a bit of timber in the garden and had the sticks, and I made it.

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Let me get this straight.

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You'd never attempted doing anything with wood before?

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I'd done bits and pieces. I've done things with my hands.

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I used to be a potter,

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and I worked with a sculptor for a short time, a few years ago.

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So I've always done stuff with my hands.

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But I just have a good feeling for the material.

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The way I approach it is a feeling for the material.

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What type of wood is this made of?

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These sticks are from a local woodland,

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that belongs to someone I know.

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They're just hornbeam sticks,

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which I'd taken the bark off, simply because I felt like it.

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They've been sitting there in my garden for a while, so I sort of had the materials.

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The top is a piece of driftwood. I live near a tidal creek

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and this driftwood plank

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had come in on the high tide about a year ago.

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I liked the look of it, so I picked it up, put it in my garden where it sat for a year.

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How is it jointed underneath?

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What's this technique called here?

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This is just a tenon and mortise, so the hole is drilled,

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the top of the stick is shaped with a spokeshave...

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until it's about the right fit.

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And then, hammered in with some glue.

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Then the top is cut off, flush, afterwards.

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I see.

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What I like about this, David,

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is driftwood pieces are often left quite raw and unfinished,

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but you've taken the decision to smooth it.

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Does that add or detract to that natural feel, in your opinion?

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I'd never thought of anything. I just did that because it felt right.

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The way I work with the material is,

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I sort of feel into the material in the moment, as I'm making it.

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It's not coming from a design type of thing,

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it's more like coming from a feeling type of thing.

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So, when I had the piece of wood,

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that's just what I felt to do with it,

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when I got my plane out and I started planing it.

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I don't think it through, I just go with the feeling of the moment.

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As a meditative object,

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something to soothe and calm, it's doing the business for me.

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I wonder, though, if perhaps,

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as a business,

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if you use feelings very much to create,

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it probably isn't a business proposition for you.

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Is that a fair thing to say?

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Um, I don't know. I wouldn't want to make 30 of them.

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I have made one, actually, more -

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because somebody really liked it and wanted one,

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so I have actually made another one. I'm not going to be a factory.

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It's a very emotional thing for you, in a way?

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Yeah, and sometimes,

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you have to wait for the piece to speak to me,

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as much as me imposing my will on the piece.

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It's a two-way... It's a relationship.

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David clearly has a close relationship with his work.

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For me, it's a classic design that's fit for purpose

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and harks back to the way all furniture was once made.

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David's motivation is not making money,

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but a lovely piece like this might sell for £250.

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I think it's great. I think it's essential to our nature

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to get in touch with our hands,

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so it's great if we encourage more people to do it.

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Working with our hands gets us in touch with ourselves.

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Today's crafted pieces could easily become tomorrow's antiques.

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The market is still buoyant for beautifully crafted things.

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Upmarket auction rooms all around the world are crammed full of discerning buyers,

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all eager to add to their collections.

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It was an emotional reaction to the mass production, back in the late 19th century,

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that led to an exciting new era in design -

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the Arts & Crafts movement, led by the English artist William Morris.

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Arts & Crafts is one of the major contributions

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that the United Kingdom made to the art world

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which is a recognised style,

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with a history, with a philosophy behind it.

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It really is very significant.

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They wanted to bring together

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the artist, the maker, and the person who bought the item.

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It was common back then for amateurs to take classes

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and then decorate items that were factory-made.

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This is a wooden box that has been painted

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by an artist, not necessarily the maker of the box.

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It's difficult to be 100% sure,

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but we feel that this is made in the United Kingdom.

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It has been hand-decorated in ink,

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and then it has been hand-coloured.

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There is little bits of gesso,

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which is plaster applied to give it a bit more texture,

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then we have some gilt detail on the top.

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The box is well done.

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It shows the charm, if you like,

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of people who came to art and design

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who weren't necessarily professionals.

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The estimate on the box is £1,000 to £1,500.

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The value, I think, reflects the amount of attention to detail,

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and the amount of art and effort that has gone into it.

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It'll be interesting to see what this box, made by an unknown

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and decorated by an amateur, will make when it goes to auction.

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Lot number 241. Arts & Crafts painted gilt and inscribed box, showing here.

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800 on the telephone. 1,100.

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1,200. 1,300.

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1,400. 1,500.

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It's at 1,600. Fair warning. All done. 1,600.

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It seems people are willing to pay a considerable amount

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of money for the work of a talented amateur.

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Will we find anything good enough for the salerooms of the future

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from our makers here today?

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Our next Handmade Revolutionary, Onorio D'Epiro,

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works as a cash office assistant.

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But this 27-year-old likes to stay creative.

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Yes, this man likes to think outside the box.

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Onorio, what have we got here?

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Er, let me show you.

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SHE LAUGHS

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-Unpack it bit by bit.

-Yeah, sure.

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-I'm intrigued by this.

-OK. Pieces out.

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That looks like a pair of legs.

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Legs.

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The main piece...

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My first question has to be,

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what on earth is it?

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It's a little rusty robot.

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So, tell me a little bit about him,

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as you pop him together.

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It's a concept I had when I finished university,

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which was about four years ago.

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I sculpted it in about a week.

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And it's just a cute little robot that's just been playing in the rain.

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-I took you a week to make him?

-Yeah.

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What's it made of, Onorio?

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It's made of polymer clay, which is baked in the oven.

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Then I put a rust finish on it, using glue and sand.

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I have to say, for something made of polymer clay,

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it has quite a sophisticated finish.

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I've seen things made of clay before, but nothing like this.

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You're a trained model maker, I take it?

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Yeah, I went to university

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and studied model design and special effects.

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I was unfortunate not to be able to get a job after I finished,

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in the field of model making,

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but I've carried it on, cos it's a hobby of mine.

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Where did you get inspiration for this little chap? He's quite a character.

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I don't know if he's scary or safe. I'm not quite sure.

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He's a little bit evil-looking, isn't he?

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I like stop-motion films

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like Wallace & Gromit and Nick Park's animation.

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I also like the work of Tim Burton.

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That sort of dark, cute sort of feel to it.

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-It's a dark humour in a way, isn't it?

-Yeah.

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What would you like to do with your objects?

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Do you see them as craft pieces,

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or do you see them

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as perhaps something that will take you into the animation industry?

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Erm, I've had a lot of people say to me it'd be nice to have it animated,

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but I'm not trained in that.

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If someone would like to work with me and help me animate it, that'd be brilliant.

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It's quite a hard object

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to sort of begin to assess.

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So, what's your dream, then?

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Probably either to work in the industry,

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to get a job in model making and work on films and things,

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or possibly set up my own little studio

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or little website where people would buy my work from me,

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or even exhibit in a gallery or something.

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If you were going to sell something like this,

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what sort of price would it command, do you think?

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I don't know. £300, something like that?

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-Right.

-Yeah.

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I have to say, Onorio, it really is a true one-off.

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You've almost converted me to strange-looking model figures.

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So, congratulations.

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I would never have thought it's something I would have said!

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I think she was a bit confused by it, but I hope she liked it in the end.

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Onorio's robot shows that handmade pieces can have a contemporary edge.

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Although £300 seems a lot to ask.

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But its inventiveness

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gives this little fellow real appeal.

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Now, being crafty

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doesn't have to be difficult, it just takes a little imagination.

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Down here, next to the resident potters,

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visitors to our Masters & Makers Day, young and old alike,

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have all been given a lump of clay.

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They've all been asked to make a little figure from it,

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so let's go and see how they're getting on.

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Hello, everyone.

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I can see the kids are enjoying it.

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What about the parents?

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-The big kids, yeah.

-How are you getting on?

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All right. I'm not quite sure what it is.

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That doesn't matter at the moment.

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The thing is, it'll evolve,

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and it'll transform into something.

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I think it's great fun to do something completely different.

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It takes your mind off of everything else

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you've had to think about during the week.

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-It gets rid of all the stresses, doesn't it?

-It does.

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Imagine doing that on a weekly basis, maybe.

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Going to evening classes, or something like that.

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This is something kids do all day long.

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-They love playing in mud and wet sand.

-We've forgotten to play, haven't we?

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Yeah... Oh, look at that!

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Where are the wet wipes? Mum, help!

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We can see making things is an absolute joy, it really is.

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It doesn't matter what it looks like, it doesn't matter

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if it turns out slightly rough around the edges and looks naive.

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All the better, for me. Who knows?

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Maybe these little ones could be the talent of the future.

0:16:160:16:19

Head judge Glenn is always on the lookout for new and gifted artists and makers,

0:16:220:16:26

ensuring no talent has slipped through the net.

0:16:260:16:28

He's found some makers

0:16:280:16:30

who have brought along some examples of their work.

0:16:300:16:33

I must say, ceramics is my absolute favourite kind of craft.

0:16:330:16:37

So I was really delighted to see these.

0:16:370:16:40

Can you tell us about the ceramics you've brought in for us to look at?

0:16:400:16:43

I've been making ceramics for about five years.

0:16:430:16:45

I didn't want to make art, as such, but I've always loved ceramics.

0:16:450:16:48

I've always collected them.

0:16:480:16:50

So this is not wheel-thrown, but built with coil?

0:16:500:16:52

This is hand-built, with coils, that's right.

0:16:520:16:55

So, a coil's a long piece of clay that you bend...?

0:16:550:16:58

You roll out, like this,

0:16:580:16:59

and you gradually build up and up...

0:16:590:17:02

trying to get, not a perfectly symmetrical shape,

0:17:020:17:06

but symmetrical enough.

0:17:060:17:08

-That's a wonderful pot.

-Thank you!

0:17:080:17:10

I saw it from a long ways off and fell in love with it.

0:17:100:17:12

Kim, can you tell us about your plate?

0:17:120:17:15

Unlike Anne's pot,

0:17:150:17:17

this is not, of course,

0:17:170:17:19

rolled out.

0:17:190:17:20

This was made in a mould, plaster mould.

0:17:200:17:23

So, I rolled out a flat piece of clay, big.

0:17:230:17:27

And then...

0:17:270:17:29

slid it into the mould.

0:17:290:17:31

Just not the easiest thing to do.

0:17:310:17:32

The pattern is taken from grasses,

0:17:320:17:35

and it is, in fact, done freehand...

0:17:350:17:37

really, just with a needle.

0:17:370:17:39

In historical pottery,

0:17:390:17:40

we would call this "grafito", which is the Italian for "scratching".

0:17:400:17:43

What's wonderful about this technique is it's so quick and so expressive, as well.

0:17:430:17:47

It really is like a drawing on the surface of the pot.

0:17:470:17:50

Which I'm not really very good at, but I'm learning, as I say.

0:17:500:17:52

-Not so bad!

-THEY LAUGH

0:17:520:17:54

DUCK QUACKS

0:17:540:17:55

If you want to join my Handmade Revolution,

0:17:550:17:59

you can find out more information on...

0:17:590:18:01

bbc.co.uk/...

0:18:010:18:03

ALL: Handmade!

0:18:030:18:04

You never know, it could be you, pitting your skills

0:18:040:18:08

against other talented amateurs for that coveted reward.

0:18:080:18:12

29-year-old Katherine Womack is keen to give up her day job

0:18:130:18:17

as an agency worker.

0:18:170:18:18

She wants to get out of the office and into the forge.

0:18:180:18:24

What an unusual piece - it looks like a transformer.

0:18:240:18:26

Where did you get this inspiration?

0:18:260:18:28

I got the idea when I went camping with some friends,

0:18:280:18:30

and they gave us a wheel rim to have the fire in,

0:18:300:18:32

but it was sat on the ground.

0:18:320:18:33

It filled up with ash at the bottom and the fire went out, and I thought,

0:18:330:18:36

"Why not put some legs on it?"

0:18:360:18:38

Tell me a bit more about this piece.

0:18:380:18:40

I'm fascinated by this.

0:18:400:18:41

I just noticed that it's a spider.

0:18:410:18:43

It's basically forged-steel legs,

0:18:430:18:46

which are all hammered out with a power hammer.

0:18:460:18:48

They start of as plain, round, ten-mil steel,

0:18:480:18:50

then they're hammered down to a point

0:18:500:18:52

and bent in a vice to get that shape.

0:18:520:18:54

Then welded-on underneath, a couple of points where they're welded.

0:18:540:18:57

Then the same way to make the fangs on the front,

0:18:570:18:59

and the end of the poker on the back.

0:18:590:19:01

-So something can...

-Yup. Built-in poker.

-That's fantastic!

0:19:010:19:04

The poker slots into two little holes underneath

0:19:040:19:06

you can slot the poker into. When you're not using it, you store it out of the way.

0:19:060:19:09

It's metalwork you specialise in?

0:19:090:19:12

Yeah, blacksmithing and forge work.

0:19:120:19:13

Tell me a bit more

0:19:130:19:15

about your forging process.

0:19:150:19:16

How do you do it?

0:19:160:19:18

It's basically lighting a fire with some coke,

0:19:180:19:20

sticking a bit of metal in till it's red,

0:19:200:19:22

and hitting it with a hammer till it looks how you want it to.

0:19:220:19:25

Do you have to control the temperature, or do you do it as it goes along?

0:19:250:19:29

You do it by colour.

0:19:290:19:31

I don't even know what temperature a forge runs at.

0:19:310:19:33

If it's a sort of nice, orangey yellow colour,

0:19:330:19:35

that's the right temperature and hit it away,

0:19:350:19:37

and as soon as it starts to cool down, stick it back in the fire again.

0:19:370:19:40

So it's more of traditional methods you're using?

0:19:400:19:43

It's a lot of traditional methods in the forging,

0:19:430:19:46

but we cheat a bit.

0:19:460:19:47

We use things like power hammers, which will do the work of...

0:19:470:19:50

Traditionally, you would have had a young person with a sledgehammer,

0:19:500:19:53

whereas nowadays, we use a power hammer.

0:19:530:19:55

Saves the 14-year-old's arms, basically!

0:19:550:19:57

So how did you get into blacksmith?

0:19:570:19:59

I'd always wanted to have a go.

0:19:590:20:01

When I was a little kid I was the one putting a poker in the fire

0:20:010:20:05

and trying to get it go red so I could hit it.

0:20:050:20:07

And got introduced to an old friend of the family who has his own forge and he took me on and he said,

0:20:070:20:12

"Right, have a couple of lessons with me," and took it from there, basically.

0:20:120:20:16

-How long have you been doing this?

-Erm, just over 18 months now.

0:20:160:20:19

So, I see a necklace around your neck, as well.

0:20:190:20:22

-Is that something you made?

-Yeah, I made this for my boyfriend

0:20:220:20:25

and I do a lot of little twisty necklaces.

0:20:250:20:26

I make them to friends for birthdays and Christmas, things like that.

0:20:260:20:29

What fascinates you more, making jewellery pieces,

0:20:290:20:32

small jewellery items or making big sculptural pieces?

0:20:320:20:35

I like everything. I like making big sculptural pieces -

0:20:350:20:38

it's nice to have something that's going to be displayed publicly

0:20:380:20:41

but I also like making little things

0:20:410:20:42

as just, sort of, little tokens for friends.

0:20:420:20:44

So, are you looking into commercial prospects of that

0:20:440:20:47

-and getting into commercial...?

-I would like to do it for a living but you never really make it

0:20:470:20:51

and I know a lot of blacksmiths who have other jobs to make money.

0:20:510:20:53

You never hear anybody say, "That's the blacksmith's Porsche!"

0:20:530:20:56

In commercial aspect, how would you price your work?

0:20:560:20:59

Something which is very unusual,

0:20:590:21:01

which is not available in the markets?

0:21:010:21:03

If you are going to price something to make it

0:21:030:21:05

you generally work out how much time you're going to spend on it

0:21:050:21:08

and charge by the time you spend doing it.

0:21:080:21:10

If that seems like an extortionate amount then you charge a bit less!

0:21:100:21:13

With your work I do think that you could be very good at making large,

0:21:130:21:16

unusual objects, which is, I think, your forte

0:21:160:21:19

and, as you can see, the spider... Are you fascinated with spiders?

0:21:190:21:22

Terrified of them!

0:21:220:21:23

I've been terrified of spiders since I was tiny

0:21:230:21:26

but somehow I, I just found this rim in the workshop and I just...

0:21:260:21:29

Something about it just lent itself to being a spider

0:21:290:21:32

so I thought, "I'll have a go at that," but I'm TERRIFIED of them!

0:21:320:21:35

I think it's great, I think we're going to head back

0:21:350:21:38

to more things being handmade in the future.

0:21:380:21:40

I see metal railings that are hundreds of years old

0:21:400:21:42

and it's nice to make something that you know that, if the scrappers don't get it,

0:21:420:21:46

it's got a permanence to it and it could be around for a couple of hundred years.

0:21:460:21:49

Catherine's enthusiasm is inspiring.

0:21:490:21:52

Recycling old scrap wheels is brilliant

0:21:520:21:55

and, of course, they don't cost the earth.

0:21:550:21:57

I reckon she could get £100 for her fire pits

0:21:570:22:00

but I know that Catherine's not just in it for the money,

0:22:000:22:03

it's her passion and her creative outlet.

0:22:030:22:07

But blacksmiths were essential to society for hundreds of years.

0:22:070:22:11

Not only was he the local toolmaker and engineer,

0:22:110:22:14

he was sometimes called upon to act as dentist, doctor and even undertaker.

0:22:140:22:19

Now, I'm not sure Catherine would relish that challenge

0:22:190:22:22

but it's great to see her putting a modern twist on this age-old skill.

0:22:220:22:27

And, finally, today, here's 66-year-old accountant Anne Burke

0:22:270:22:31

with something a bit more delicate.

0:22:310:22:33

Anne, I have to admit,

0:22:350:22:37

when I heard that you were going to be showing me a beaded necklace

0:22:370:22:40

I didn't have very high hopes.

0:22:400:22:42

But I have to say, I'm quite impressed by that.

0:22:420:22:45

-Can I try it on?

-Certainly.

0:22:450:22:47

It's got a little magnetic clasp there, so very easy to put on,

0:22:470:22:52

which is a really good thing.

0:22:520:22:54

I mean, it doesn't quite go with the dress, unfortunately, but...

0:22:540:22:58

it seems to lie very nicely.

0:22:580:23:01

And you use quite a lot of unusual techniques.

0:23:010:23:03

Talk me through some of the techniques you've used.

0:23:030:23:05

The leaves are a variation of a St Petersburg chain

0:23:050:23:11

and apart from that the rope itself is a twisted herringbone.

0:23:110:23:15

Now, it all sounds terribly technical to me.

0:23:150:23:18

How do you go about learning these technical stitches?

0:23:180:23:22

It doesn't sound very easy.

0:23:220:23:24

Mainly from books, erm...

0:23:240:23:27

unless you are lucky enough to have a local beading group.

0:23:270:23:31

And how did you get into the craft of beadworking?

0:23:310:23:35

I have an older brother who lives in the States.

0:23:350:23:37

He's a civil engineer.

0:23:370:23:40

He lost two of his fingers in an accident,

0:23:400:23:43

they reattached his fingers

0:23:430:23:44

and to make him use them they introduced him to beadwork.

0:23:440:23:49

We went to visit them and he took me to his bead store,

0:23:490:23:53

and we walked into this vast warehouse.

0:23:530:23:55

A whole emporium of beads!

0:23:550:23:57

-Full of beads and that was it, I never looked back!

-It was love at first sight, really!

0:23:570:24:02

It's really very beautiful, some of the work in this.

0:24:020:24:06

I mean, there's beadwork and beadwork, but this is so intricate.

0:24:060:24:10

It's finding out HOW to do it as well and how you make even like this

0:24:100:24:15

where you've got the petals that curve.

0:24:150:24:18

Getting lost in something like this allows you to switch off completely

0:24:180:24:21

-from the workaday world.

-Yes. Yes.

0:24:210:24:23

Would you say, Anne, this is very much a passion project for you?

0:24:230:24:27

What do you want to do with it?

0:24:270:24:30

It's very, very difficult to sell items,

0:24:300:24:33

so I really just do make them for pleasure, I make them for friends,

0:24:330:24:37

for family, as gifts, and that's really the best you can do.

0:24:370:24:43

-Have you ever sold any pieces of your work?

-I do sell the odd piece.

0:24:430:24:46

I have a friend who has a dress shop

0:24:460:24:49

and she occasionally sells pieces for me.

0:24:490:24:52

You look at the work of some fashion designers

0:24:520:24:55

and they incorporate beadwork into the beautiful embellished necklaces

0:24:550:24:58

and bibs now, they're very fashionable.

0:24:580:25:02

So, there is a demand for this sort of work.

0:25:020:25:04

I guess, one of the questions would be

0:25:040:25:06

how long would it take you to make something like this?

0:25:060:25:09

-That probably took 30, 40 hours.

-30 or 40 hours?

0:25:090:25:13

So, if we start pricing that up

0:25:130:25:15

it makes for a deservedly expensive piece,

0:25:150:25:19

you know, on sale in a high-end boutique.

0:25:190:25:21

-Somewhere like Liberty's, in London.

-It's a very limited market.

0:25:210:25:25

A limited market, perhaps, but nonetheless, as I say,

0:25:250:25:28

fashion designers are using this sort of piece in their collections.

0:25:280:25:33

So, I suppose it's tricky, isn't it, to know where to take this next.

0:25:330:25:36

I mean, do you imagine you'll carry on doing it for pleasure

0:25:360:25:39

or would you like to take it to a slightly more professional level?

0:25:390:25:42

I would like to take it to a more professional level.

0:25:420:25:45

I mean, I work as an accountant

0:25:450:25:46

so it's totally the other end of the scale.

0:25:460:25:50

In the future, with full retirement,

0:25:500:25:52

then maybe it might be something you can spend more time doing?

0:25:520:25:56

Well, in theory, I retired six years ago! THEY LAUGH

0:25:560:25:59

You're one of the new age of people who never retire, Anne,

0:25:590:26:02

that's what it is!

0:26:020:26:04

It's very difficult to find people

0:26:060:26:09

who can either show you how to do something,

0:26:090:26:12

or teach you how to do something.

0:26:120:26:13

Most of what I learned was from books.

0:26:130:26:16

Just to encourage more people to get involved in it would be wonderful.

0:26:160:26:22

Potentially, Anne's work could sell from anything from £50-£200

0:26:220:26:28

in high-end boutiques

0:26:280:26:29

but her skill, attention to detail and talent

0:26:290:26:33

is really hard to put a price on.

0:26:330:26:35

My revolution is about celebrating our nation's skills

0:26:360:26:39

and there's nothing more essentially British than cloth making.

0:26:390:26:44

Earlier, we met Anne weaving recycled bags,

0:26:440:26:46

something we could all try,

0:26:460:26:48

but I've come here to the Black Mountains, in South Wales,

0:26:480:26:52

to meet a master weaver who transforms the simplest of materials

0:26:520:26:55

into something extraordinary.

0:26:550:26:58

There is a rich tradition in textiles

0:26:580:27:00

that spans the whole of the British Isles

0:27:000:27:02

but this particular area is home to a breed of sheep

0:27:020:27:05

whose fleece is perfectly suited to spinning and weaving,

0:27:050:27:09

and it's been renowned for its weavers for hundreds of years.

0:27:090:27:13

The industry became heavily mechanised

0:27:130:27:15

all over the United Kingdom

0:27:150:27:16

but its roots are firmly in the domestic sphere.

0:27:160:27:20

This little house is just the kind of setting for a cottage industry

0:27:200:27:23

of the 19th century

0:27:230:27:25

and it's here that master craftsman Stuart Neil weaves his magic.

0:27:250:27:30

Stuart, there's a lot of work here in your studio,

0:27:300:27:32

that's quite evident, it's jam-packed!

0:27:320:27:34

But what do you specialise in? What do you enjoy making the most?

0:27:340:27:36

Well, I mean, the flagship is the throw

0:27:360:27:39

because we market that under the Welsh name of gwrthban.

0:27:390:27:42

It was a traditional bed cover, if you like.

0:27:420:27:44

Sometimes a farmer would bring the fleece to the mill, get it woven

0:27:440:27:48

and then have the finished object back,

0:27:480:27:50

you know, as part of an exchange.

0:27:500:27:52

-Right, I see, like a bartering system.

-That's it, that's it.

0:27:520:27:55

Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.

0:27:550:27:56

So, this is an essential piece of kit

0:27:560:27:58

in traditional Welsh farm houses, and cottages, and mill houses?

0:27:580:28:01

Yes, I mean, it's really interesting.

0:28:010:28:03

At one time, if you go back 300 years,

0:28:030:28:05

the family would be involved in the textiles.

0:28:050:28:08

The womenfolk would spin,

0:28:080:28:09

the children would card the fleece, ready for spinning,

0:28:090:28:12

and then the husband would weave.

0:28:120:28:14

And, also, in farms, very often,

0:28:140:28:16

if you were an agricultural labourer, when you were being hired,

0:28:160:28:18

if you could weave you had a better chance of being employed

0:28:180:28:21

so it was very much a cottage industry.

0:28:210:28:24

Now, these particular patterns, these, sort of, geometric forms,

0:28:240:28:27

repetitive patterns, that's so typical of a Welsh throw, isn't it?

0:28:270:28:29

Well, it's typical of South Wales and I picked it up

0:28:290:28:33

because there was a mill very locally in Abergavenny,

0:28:330:28:36

run by Lady Llanofer, who was a very famous lady,

0:28:360:28:40

she insisted all her employees spoke Welsh.

0:28:400:28:44

She was hated by half the community and loved by the other half!

0:28:440:28:49

But she set up this mill to provide cloth for the poor of the parish.

0:28:490:28:54

Cloth production in Wales dates from the 14th century

0:29:010:29:03

as a natural by-product of sheep farming in the region.

0:29:030:29:07

Stuart's workshop is in the village of Pandy,

0:29:070:29:10

which means fulling mill,

0:29:100:29:11

fulling being a technique used to wash impurities from woollen cloth.

0:29:110:29:16

And cloth from Lady Llanofer's mill survives even today.

0:29:170:29:21

Somebody said, "Oh, I've got this piece of textile,"

0:29:230:29:26

and I was analysing, thinking, "Oh, could I...? I could repeat that!"

0:29:260:29:29

-So, this is early 1900s?

-This is 1920.

0:29:290:29:31

This is so typical to the region of South Wales,

0:29:310:29:34

this particular pattern.

0:29:340:29:35

-I can't wait to get started, actually!

-Oh, heck!

-I really can't!

0:29:350:29:38

I actually want to go home today with something that I'm proud of.

0:29:380:29:40

Something tangible that I can show everybody and say,

0:29:400:29:43

"Look, if I can do it, you at home can do it."

0:29:430:29:45

-Oh, right-ho, then. Yeah.

-OK?

-Yeah, OK, right.

0:29:450:29:47

-Traditional skills, using traditional methods...

-We'll have a go!

0:29:470:29:50

-..taught by a master!

-Oh, crikey!

0:29:500:29:52

So, this is the first stage, really, stage one.

0:29:550:29:57

Spinning raw wool into yarn?

0:29:570:30:00

-That's right...

-This is how it would have traditionally been done?

0:30:000:30:03

-It was, all, it was...

-A cottage industry?

0:30:030:30:05

Yes, the womenfolk were in charge of this.

0:30:050:30:08

There's a Welsh folk song where the girl's love has gone to war

0:30:080:30:12

and she's being chided because she's not concentrating on her spinning.

0:30:120:30:16

Are you going to sing it?

0:30:160:30:17

Oh, no, no, no, I'm not!

0:30:170:30:18

THEY LAUGH

0:30:180:30:20

When I'm looking at that there's, sort of, mixed hues going on there.

0:30:210:30:25

-Is that different sheep?

-No, no, no, it's just the breed,

0:30:250:30:29

the breed actually produces these variety of colours

0:30:290:30:31

and you either separate them when you're spinning or you mix them.

0:30:310:30:34

I love that. Can I have a little go at this process? Do you mind?

0:30:340:30:37

Yes, yes, I'm... See how you, what you make of it!

0:30:370:30:40

-I've got...

-You're going to have to talk me through it.

-Yeah.

0:30:400:30:43

-You see, you're getting lovely lumpy bits, there.

-I know, is that bad?

0:30:450:30:49

Well, no, you're never reproduce that later on.

0:30:490:30:52

However much you try, you won't be able to do lumpy

0:30:520:30:54

and sometimes you would like to do lumpy!

0:30:540:30:57

-Treasure your lumpiness!

-OK, gosh, it's difficult!

-Mmm.

0:30:570:31:01

-Tease this out with both hands.

-That's right.

0:31:010:31:04

Uh-oh...

0:31:040:31:06

I'm getting the feel for it, now. Oh! It's just come off.

0:31:060:31:08

-That's all right. Just...

-Oh, I'm sorry about that.

-No, no, no!

0:31:080:31:12

-But I guess these things happen and it's all part of the process?

-Yeah.

0:31:120:31:16

The next process is to set the yarn.

0:31:160:31:19

This is where different coloured balls are mixed.

0:31:190:31:22

It's a very important stage

0:31:220:31:23

as it helps set the final pattern of the cloth.

0:31:230:31:27

Oh, I'm on a roll now!

0:31:270:31:29

It's like a giant game of Cat's Cradle...

0:31:290:31:31

-Follow what's already there.

-OK.

0:31:310:31:33

..one that takes four hours to complete!

0:31:330:31:36

-Let go of everything. Just pull... There we are.

-Gosh, yeah!

0:31:360:31:40

You've got to do a lot of calculation before you start.

0:31:400:31:42

You can't just say, "Oh, here's some threads, oh, I'll make a wool!"

0:31:420:31:45

-You've really got...

-Can't, really!

0:31:450:31:47

No, you can't! You've really got to plan it.

0:31:470:31:49

-We have to get this upstairs, then?

-Yeah, and that's a challenge.

0:31:490:31:52

-So, you grab that...

-Take that?

0:31:520:31:53

Yes, that's right and then pull it through.

0:31:530:31:55

Well, Paul...

0:31:550:31:56

is not the finest bit of chaining I've seen

0:31:560:32:00

but I do compliment you, that is pretty good.

0:32:000:32:02

Thank you. Thank you.

0:32:020:32:03

This is a lovely piece of kit.

0:32:040:32:06

How old is the loom and where did you get it from?

0:32:060:32:08

Oh, it's about 120 years old.

0:32:080:32:10

-It's seen some life, then? It's seen action?

-Oh, it has.

0:32:100:32:13

On the back there are some dates

0:32:130:32:14

from, obviously, apprentices from 1929.

0:32:140:32:17

-They're not inexpensive.

-If you had to buy a one of these today what...?

0:32:170:32:20

-Oh, £10,000.

-Really?! That much?

-Oh, yes. Oh, yes, yes.

0:32:200:32:23

And you just simply pull on the chord and just... It whacks across...

0:32:230:32:28

-And that's it?

-..and there you go.

0:32:280:32:30

Change...and back it goes.

0:32:300:32:33

-If you look, you see those shafts are lifted now and then I...

-Yeah.

0:32:330:32:37

-And then you've got a different set of shafts lifting.

-Yes, yes.

0:32:370:32:42

-And now it's a different set of shafts lifting again.

-Yes.

0:32:420:32:44

-I mean, that goes through...

-Then that just repeats itself?

-Yeah.

0:32:440:32:47

So, the next time you put your foot down it's the other one.

0:32:470:32:50

Well, I think it might be time for me to get my hands on the loom.

0:32:500:32:53

Throw your shuttle.

0:32:530:32:56

Cor, I can't do it as well as you! That was pathetic!

0:32:560:32:58

-No, well, you, you will get...

-That was absolutely pathetic!

0:32:580:33:01

Right, now through the shuttle back.

0:33:010:33:04

-That's better!

-Yes!

0:33:040:33:06

-And pull back?

-Er, yes, beat up.

0:33:060:33:08

Throw back?

0:33:080:33:10

Change shed.

0:33:100:33:12

Back, beat up.

0:33:130:33:15

I mean, relax into it, don't... You're very tense.

0:33:150:33:19

I am, I know, I'm very nervous!

0:33:190:33:21

Here we go.

0:33:210:33:23

-No, you didn't change the shed then.

-Oh!

0:33:230:33:25

Send it back.

0:33:250:33:26

You have to have an awful lot of weight on your forearm

0:33:260:33:29

pushing this forwards in order to get that shuttle to move across

0:33:290:33:33

and at the same time you can't move

0:33:330:33:34

because your leg is on this piece of wood, which is opening the gate.

0:33:340:33:38

-It's...

-It really is complicated!

-It is, it is.

0:33:380:33:40

You've been doing this, in this room, on this loom for 20 years.

0:33:400:33:43

-Yeah, yeah. I mean...

-And you're not potty!

0:33:430:33:47

Have you had moments where you think, "I'm going mad doing this"?

0:33:470:33:50

Yes, I've cursed and I've actually...

0:33:500:33:51

I mean, sometimes it's better to walk away

0:33:510:33:53

and to just leave it for a few hours.

0:33:530:33:55

Ah!

0:33:570:33:58

It's not easy, this, it's not easy, Stuart, is it?

0:34:000:34:02

-It's not my fault, guv!

-No, it isn't.

0:34:040:34:07

-A bit of a pause, folks.

-These things happen, don't they?

-Yes, they do.

0:34:070:34:11

You can see here, look, I've just gone wrong

0:34:110:34:13

and that's probably about six times across,

0:34:130:34:16

because it's lost its shape there.

0:34:160:34:18

I can see the pattern evolving in front of my eyes.

0:34:240:34:26

-I'm quite pleased with that.

-Your little quirk...

0:34:300:34:32

-It's almost Arabesque...

-That's your signature, that's Paul Martin.

0:34:320:34:35

HE LAUGHS

0:34:350:34:37

I'm really, really happy with that. I love the blue colour, as well.

0:34:370:34:41

-Well chosen, that's my favourite colour.

-Well, there we are.

0:34:410:34:44

Unroll your piece now.

0:34:440:34:47

This is possible, go out and find yourself a master and start making.

0:34:500:34:55

-This is it, cutting your piece off.

-Fabulous.

0:34:550:34:59

-Thank you, Stuart.

-There we are.

-Look at that.

-Look at that.

0:34:590:35:02

A moment I've been waiting for. Ta-da!

0:35:020:35:05

Look, isn't that fab?

0:35:050:35:07

Fantastic, thank you so much.

0:35:070:35:10

I feel like I've had a hand in every stage of making this.

0:35:100:35:14

OK, it's hard work and it takes a long time to make this

0:35:140:35:17

and you do need a loom like that at home, but you can, if you want,

0:35:170:35:21

sit at home in front of the telly, do some winding on

0:35:210:35:23

and do some spinning, all traditional skills and methods.

0:35:230:35:26

I think you should be proud of that. It's such a real achievement.

0:35:260:35:30

Thank you. I'll certainly treasure this, that's for sure.

0:35:300:35:33

But now, it's crunch time and I'm truly impressed

0:35:350:35:38

at what's being made behind the closed doors of Britain.

0:35:380:35:42

From among hundreds of applicants, these five talented amateurs

0:35:420:35:46

were chosen to go before our panel of judges today.

0:35:460:35:49

But only one of them can be nominated Judges' Favourite.

0:35:490:35:52

None of the finalists know what could be in store for that person.

0:35:520:35:56

An opportunity that could change their life and now,

0:35:560:36:00

it's the moment of truth.

0:36:000:36:02

OK, guys, here we are with our five finalists.

0:36:020:36:06

I've had a look at them already and saw a couple of things

0:36:060:36:08

that would be great to have at the V&A,

0:36:080:36:10

but maybe we could start by telling me a bit about your conversations with the makers.

0:36:100:36:14

So, Piyush, go ahead and start for us.

0:36:140:36:15

We have Nicole, who has a strong message of recycling and upcycling,

0:36:150:36:20

which is trendy at the moment. She uses old plastic bags and different materials

0:36:200:36:24

to create bags. She weaves on a small pegged loom,

0:36:240:36:27

but also now she is looking into working on a table loom and making

0:36:270:36:31

a better fabric out of it.

0:36:310:36:33

I just wanted to be here and get inspired.

0:36:330:36:36

If it comes out that I am the Judges' Favourite

0:36:360:36:38

that would be brilliant, but it's more important to be here, I thought.

0:36:380:36:43

And here I have Catherine, she's a blacksmith,

0:36:430:36:46

she uses different materials and here,

0:36:460:36:49

she's used a wheel hub to create a fire plate

0:36:490:36:51

and, guys, if you can notice, it's a spider and can I just tell you,

0:36:510:36:56

that she's absolutely terrified of spiders.

0:36:560:36:59

She doesn't pre-decide, whenever she sees an object

0:36:590:37:01

and it comes to her mind that this should be the final outcome of it.

0:37:010:37:05

-She goes with the flow.

-So, whatever it suggests to her?

-Exactly.

0:37:050:37:08

I think he liked it, I think he was quite impressed with it.

0:37:080:37:11

It's a bit unusual, not something you see every day.

0:37:110:37:14

So, you literally put logs in this light a fire...

0:37:140:37:17

-a flaming spider.

-Something that won't be in my house,

0:37:170:37:20

-but, yes, I think it's innovative.

-Maybe in the back yard!

0:37:200:37:23

OK, Mary Jane, how about you?

0:37:230:37:25

I spoke to Onorio, who's a model maker,

0:37:250:37:28

and this little fellow, he made with the idea

0:37:280:37:31

-of perhaps using it in animation at some point.

-I see.

0:37:310:37:33

It is made of polymer clay and it looks very heavy,

0:37:330:37:37

-but it's not, actually.

-It looks like metal.

-It does, yes.

-I love the texture.

0:37:370:37:40

It's interesting, he uses bits he's found to add to the design.

0:37:400:37:44

We've got a rust, sort of, finish that he's invented himself,

0:37:440:37:48

it's quite interesting.

0:37:480:37:49

If I was chosen as Judges' Favourite it would be fantastic.

0:37:490:37:52

My parents would be really proud of me. Yeah.

0:37:520:37:54

Once-in-a-lifetime experience, I guess.

0:37:540:37:56

This is David's meditation stool

0:37:560:37:59

which was made from a piece of driftwood

0:37:590:38:02

and you can see the heartwood and the sapwood in the piece.

0:38:020:38:05

I think it's interesting, because often drift wood is left quite raw,

0:38:050:38:08

but he's obviously refined it, so that was the detail I quite liked.

0:38:080:38:13

If I was chosen as the Judges' Favourite,

0:38:130:38:14

then I would be very happy.

0:38:140:38:17

It would, I suppose, be an affirmation of the stuff

0:38:170:38:19

and the things I've made and my creativity.

0:38:190:38:22

And then this piece here,

0:38:220:38:25

a beautiful necklace with very fine detailed beadwork.

0:38:250:38:29

You know I like girlie stuff, so it sort of appealed to me.

0:38:290:38:32

A beautiful floral design, lots of very intricate work

0:38:320:38:37

and this lady got into beading because her brother hurt his hand

0:38:370:38:40

and she took it up to sort of keep him company.

0:38:400:38:43

It would mean an awful lot to me, it would confirm that I can do what I am trying to do

0:38:430:38:48

and that what I try to do is appreciated by other people.

0:38:480:38:52

Yes, you can tell she has a big repertoire, doesn't she?

0:38:520:38:55

Yes, she does, and she gets lots of inspiration from the garden

0:38:550:38:58

and her flower displays and she loves colour

0:38:580:39:01

-and I think that's quite clear.

-Too much bling for me, though.

0:39:010:39:03

-For you, maybe.

-Too much bling!

0:39:030:39:06

Well, it's an interesting group of objects,

0:39:060:39:08

because we have a couple of things, the beadwork necklace

0:39:080:39:11

and this little figure here, which look like something they're not,

0:39:110:39:15

so beadwork that looks like flowers,

0:39:150:39:17

and then this rather amazing use of polymer clay to look like metal,

0:39:170:39:20

but then these other three objects are very straightforward.

0:39:200:39:24

You can really tell what they're made from,

0:39:240:39:26

so it's all very direct craftsmanship.

0:39:260:39:28

They're all expressive of their makers' ideas and passions, so...

0:39:280:39:33

I would go for something which has more surprise factor in this case.

0:39:330:39:38

Some of the things are very obvious

0:39:380:39:40

and a couple of them have a surprise factor, so for me

0:39:400:39:43

I would go for something that is quite interesting to see.

0:39:430:39:47

-Mary Jane, what do you think?

-Oh,

0:39:470:39:50

it's a difficult one this time.

0:39:500:39:52

I mean, there are some little oddities amongst what we have

0:39:520:39:56

and it is going to be quite hard to choose.

0:39:560:39:59

Very different things, from very different ends of the spectrum

0:39:590:40:03

-and my mind's not quite made up yet.

-OK.

0:40:030:40:05

I think I have a pretty firm idea of what I think.

0:40:050:40:07

I'm really impressed at what's on display here.

0:40:070:40:10

There is a lot of talent and attitude and remember at this stage,

0:40:100:40:13

none of the finalists know what is at stake -

0:40:130:40:16

a chance to have their work on display

0:40:160:40:18

at the Victoria & Albert Museum.

0:40:180:40:20

-So?

-I've got a possible frontrunner.

0:40:200:40:24

We are running out of time, the judges need to make a decision.

0:40:240:40:28

-I know where you are heading to.

-OK.

0:40:290:40:31

Shall we get Paul involved in the decision, then? What do you think?

0:40:310:40:34

-I think so, yeah.

-OK.

-It would be a good idea.

0:40:340:40:37

-He can be the tie-breaker for us.

-OK.

0:40:370:40:39

So, you know what I'm going to say, have you reached a decision?

0:40:450:40:48

I'm afraid we haven't, Paul, we could really use your help.

0:40:480:40:51

It seems they're split.

0:40:510:40:54

Mary Jane is clearly undecided.

0:40:540:40:57

-You're not convinced.

-No, I am. I...am.

0:40:570:41:00

Glenn really loves the workmanship from one of our finalists

0:41:000:41:04

but he's pulled toward something he thinks is more inspired.

0:41:040:41:07

We're thinking about here, the amount of skill involved

0:41:070:41:09

and also inventiveness.

0:41:090:41:11

Piyush thinks one of the frontrunners lacks originality

0:41:110:41:15

and he has a definite favourite.

0:41:150:41:18

I think I'll go for the concept one.

0:41:180:41:19

This is genuinely a tough decision.

0:41:190:41:22

But after some deliberation, we finally have a Judges' Favourite.

0:41:220:41:27

-We've reached a decision?

-Yeah.

-Good.

0:41:270:41:29

We have agreed. I think it's time we called in the finalists.

0:41:290:41:34

Well, you've all done extremely well to get this far

0:41:450:41:48

and I've been so impressed with your work, the diversity

0:41:480:41:51

and the attention to detail and the skills, so thank you.

0:41:510:41:55

I can now reveal who the Judges' Favourite is,

0:41:550:41:57

but before I do that, let me tell you what's at stake.

0:41:570:42:01

It's the chance to have your work put on display

0:42:010:42:04

in the shop at the V&A,

0:42:040:42:06

at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London,

0:42:060:42:09

the spiritual home of Arts & Crafts.

0:42:090:42:12

Now, that is a wonderful showcase for your work.

0:42:120:42:14

So, good luck. And whatever happens to the outcome,

0:42:140:42:19

well done to all of you, OK?

0:42:190:42:21

Now, we only have four finalists in front of us today.

0:42:210:42:24

Nicole sadly couldn't be here,

0:42:240:42:26

but her work has been included in the judges' final deliberations.

0:42:260:42:30

And I can now reveal who the Judges' Favourite is.

0:42:300:42:34

So, it gives me great pleasure to announce

0:42:420:42:44

that today's Judges' Favourite is...

0:42:440:42:49

Onorio with the model. Well done.

0:42:560:43:00

Well done. Original. Totally original.

0:43:000:43:03

Well done to all of you, as well, because that was close.

0:43:030:43:05

Onorio's rusty robot is definitely unique.

0:43:050:43:07

This piece just grabbed our attention -

0:43:070:43:10

it's original, it boasts precision craftsmanship

0:43:100:43:14

as well as the surprise factor. Onorio must have some mastery

0:43:140:43:17

to turn children's modelling clay

0:43:170:43:19

into rusty metal. We think he may be a bit of an alchemist.

0:43:190:43:24

It's been so encouraging to see so many talented makers today

0:43:240:43:27

using such a diverse range of materials

0:43:270:43:29

and some of them will have a bright future ahead of them.

0:43:290:43:32

This is just the start, come and join in the fun,

0:43:320:43:35

join our Handmade Revolution.

0:43:350:43:37

See you next time.

0:43:370:43:40

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