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Hello and welcome to The One Show, Best Of Britain with Lucy Siegle
and Matt Allwright and the chance to see our favourite The One Show
films. We're in the Cairngorms National
Park. Isn't it beautiful? I love it. It is the biggest National Park in
Britain. Twice the size of the lake district. Which is in itself very
big. Here you get some of the UK's most exciting species, otters,
ospreys, wildcats. Not to mention the Scottish cross bill. Don't
forget. If you look in the rivers and the lochs, you may catch a
glimpse of the superfish of the Highlands? Is it a bird or a plane?
No, it is just a fish! For just a few weeks every year, our Scottish
rivers play host to a wildlife story packed with drama and the
ultimate determination. Because, this is a great time of
the year to see Atlantic salmon making incredible leaps up weirs
and waterfalls. Believe me, they will have a crack at anything!
These salmon are trying to head home back up the very rivers that
they were born. It is the final chapter of a massive migration.
Most of the salmon you see leaping will have swum all the way to
Greenland and back, dodging the jaws of sharks, seals, humans and
all sorts of other predators. These are the lucky ones.
Salmons spend years feeding at sea, but when they return they are
focused on one thing, getting upriver to breed. That means battle
against these mighty pitfalls, it looks exhausting, but in true The
One Show spirit, I'm prepared to take the plunge. I'm going to
attempt the impossible, trying to swim the last leg of a salmon's
epic journey upstream. Wish me good luck! It's very, very cold! Argh!
And like me, the salmon don't mind this chilly water, in fact, they
use it as a tool to navigate their way home.
The way that salmon try to find the exact river in which they were born
is by using the chemical signature in each river, so basically, they
sniff their way home. It smells like the River Tay to me! Even in
this relatively calm stretch of water, the current is whipping
along at ten miles an hour and I'm struggling. The only way I'll make
it to the rapids is to cheat. But not even Michael Phelps could
cope with these currents. I did say it was impossible. I went
into the middle there where the stream was stronger. I must have
gone about 20 metres before I was exhausted.
I'm also very cold and salmon do that for hundreds of miles from the
sea right to their spawning grounds much higher up. How-do they do it?
OK. So maybe they are a little more streamlined than I am, but when
they get the chance they rest in deep pools like this one, monitored
by fisheries manager, David. Basically, the fish have swum up,
they will stay in a nice deep pool that is secure and secluded and
stay here basically until they are ready to spawn or ready to move
upstream. What is the maximum height that
they can jump over rapids? They have been recorded to jump up to 11
feet. I think that is the British record, but that is really
exceptional for a clear jump. Most of it is less than that.
Back upstream is this river's largest obstacle, the National
Trust for Scotland's Black Lynn waterfall. It is a five metre wall
of water. To reach the top here, salmon must
jump in stages, hoping to find small ledges along the way.
Wow! There we go! What a cracking leap.
Some of their largest leaps are equivalent to me jumping two
double-decker buses! Only one in 1,000 salmon will ever make it back
to breed, so seeing them leap is a real privilege.
Wow! There we go. It just jumped out of nowhere and
hit the rock and bounced straight back down. I tell you, having heard
I could have a go at it myself, I am now full of admiration for these
athletes in the fish world. I can't wait for the fish Olympics!
Madrid, 2013! Exciting, isn't it, Matt? Yes, what does this landscape
make you feel? Right now I want to dive into the water, but it is
freezing. It makes me feel like writing
poetry. Dark brown is the river, golden is the sand, it flows on
forever with trees on either hand. That's buert, Matt, did you write
that? -- that's beautiful, Matt, did you write it? No.
This landscape was a huge source of inspiration for painters like John
millet. But also many more.
Here is Gyles Brandreth. Pull the poor wretch from her lay
to muddy depths. Lines from Shakespeare's play, Ham let,
describing the last moments of ham let's love, Ophelia as she drowns.
As families are the words is a painting of Ophelia. It depicts the
Shakespeare character as she takes her life in a river in Denmark
after hearing that her lover, ham let has killed her father.
There is debate as to whether Ophelia is alive or dead in this
moment. My feeling is it is just that moment that the life has left
her. Some like to believe she is alive, some like to believe she is
just dead. There was a brother hood of
painters and together they wanted to return to a more natural form of
painting. One of the most interesting things
about the pre- rafallites is that they had this move towards nature
and painted outdoors. In the play, of course, Ophelia dies in Denmark,
but the setting for the painting is English.
I'm standing by the Hobbss Mill River in Surrey, where Miele spent
time spenting with his friend. Art experts believe that Mielle
painted the background to the painting here the Hobbs River, but
we decided to find out the exact location that Mielle had chosen.
This is the copy of the book that Milleas had written. Letters in the
book reveal the distance between the lodgings of the painter and the
riverbank where he was working on the painting. This provided
evidence to help Barbara narrow down her search.
What this told me was that Milleas could not have chosen his spot in
This area as it was too far' way. Then Barbara unearthed another
piece of the jigsaw. In the Surrey record office there
was a scrap book written by Chatwin Stapleton, who was the vicar here
at the time that the painters were here.
What did the vicar report? Now, the vicar reported that the willow in
the painting was the willow 100 yards above the bridge over the
Hobbs Mill leading to Surbiton, and that was the back ground of the
painting. So, Barbara had proved the experts
wrong. The exact spot where Mealle had worked was close to the river
of Old Surbiton. How did you feel when you made this
dits covery? Well, very surprised and really delighted that it
towelally had some conclusion to it. The painter spent 11 hours a day,
six days a week here in all weathers, but happily his model was
spared the river. Instead, Lizzie Siddell was allowed
to pose in a bath of water in his London studio.
The painter had this vision, he wanted to paint her properly
floating in water so he could see the effects of what the water did
to her hair and clothing. I think that she had the painting
equivalent of photo genia, he knew that she would look wonderful in
the water. She became ill as a result of
posing for him. Milleas was one of the most
captivating painters but what of poor Lizzie? She died, but lives on
as art lovers everywhere as the tragic Ophelia.
I genuinely love that painting, which I had as a poster on my wall
as a student. Why didn't you have a normal poster
as a student like Bob Marley. --? You are saying I'm not normal?
Maybe eccentric. This area gets a whaping 1.5
million visitor as year from all over the country, but this has not
been such a tourism hot spot, in fact it would not be if it were not
for the work of one wonderful woman. Gloria hundred ford?
Queen Victoria. She bought Balmoral.
I would imagine that the burgeoning and growing railway network of the
era meant that more people had the opportunity to mimic the Monarch?
Indeed, it became fashionable of going north of the border. We have
an interesting way of doing fashion on show show. We have Dan Snow and
Michael Douglas, he is a hair drers, but he deals with the hair. --
dresser. Virn England, a prosperous, hard-
working country it is often thought of as a peaceful period. The
Victorian era is referred of as being a packed Britannica, people
say that there were no major wars fought in it, but there was loads
of fighting. The Crimean War pitted Russia against Britain, France and
Turkey it was fought mainly in the modern-day Ukraine as the great
powers justled for influence in the Asia minor and the Balkans. It was
the military that led from the front. Pine years of a fashion for
male grooming in the form of fantastic extravagant moustaches,
obligatory for men. This is Bill, I have to create a
wonderful moustache on him. What is wonderful face to do it on, look at
that I can't wait. Bill, you have a book with images in it, tell us
what they are about? This is my great, great granddad, William and
his son. Who is this? That is a cousin.
I think we should go author that, that is rather nice.
That's a sporty moustache. Take a look... Oh, I say! Do you
like that? That is rather dashing that, ain't it? It suits you! I met
up with rosemary Mitchell, the director of a centre for Victorian
studies in Leeds. Why do people have beards in the army? They are
sort of man of action beards. Having lived out in the Empire, not
having time for shaving. The beard has this expression of strength.
Think of sampleson and deLila. The fashion for facial hair spread
out. Sometimes the beards are linked to
the Crimean War and a more positive assessment of the army and
supporting this is the new imperial idea of manhood. Beards expressed
the man who goes out there to explore the baundaries of the New
World. This is a about expressing po tensey, maturity and adventure
as well. For women, the influence was not the battlefield. The hair
style reflected their role. Maternal home makers.
So, flirtairbsness was out and prudishness was in.
Those Victorian values, moral rek tued and hard work were closely
linked to the growth of industry and the rejection of regency row
monthcism. The early Victorians were defieng
themselves against what they saw as degenerate era. So aiming to be
It is about projecting an image which says trust me with your money
for top facial hair had become symbolic with trustworthiness ant
standing. People like Charles Dickens and Charles Darwin followed
the trend which now included elaborate sideburns known as mutton
chops. The Prince Albert is largely some big sideburns, or mutton chops
or lamb chops, and we also keep a bit of a moustache as well. It
Here he is, transformed into a van -- a Victorian gent. Mutton chops.
They would suit you. They might make my it an almost chin that even
bigger! -- enormous chin. The legacy of the Victorians is still
with us to this day, not just the physical fabric of what they left
behind, but also the birth of things like social responsibility,
the beginnings of those struggles for a quality and rights that still
improve our lives to this day. I think you would look really good
with one of these Victorian bonnets. Really? The look I am going for is
a future Edwardian. Interesting. It is almost working. Four of the five
tallest peaks in Britain by in the Cairngorms, the tallest being Benn
looked eerie at 1309 metres. It has a ghost. By the big grey man who is
a bit like a yeti, but a man and a ghost. Maybe if we stand here long
enough we will meet him. Every possibility. The only better view
you could get than this one is of course if we were birds of prey, if
you were an eagle. I am glad you said that because there is a
falconer in Devon who thinks the Throughout history man has dreamt
of flying and our fascination stemmed from birds. There... It is
normally what I am looking for. But today I have come to Devon to meet
a man who can't keep his feet on the ground. He has taken his
passion for gliding one step further and he has learnt how to
soar with the birds. Jonathan Marshall is more than just an
adrenalin junkie. With his squadron of birds, he has used every trick
in the book to try to soar like Lynne Neagle. This is your
beautiful collection. He is a professional falconer and has
trained many birds of prey, but there is one bird in particular he
has formed a very special bond with. Who is this? This is Samson. He is
giving me the RI! He is a golden eagle. What a handsome bird he is.
How heavy is he? A very heavy. He is about 10 lbs at the moment. He
could get heavier than that in the winter. How did you become
acquainted with Samson? He was originally stolen from a zoo and
kept in a wardrobe for four months. Somebody found dumped about it and
the house was raided and they found the Eagle. He was brought down to
me for rehabilitation. I also had to befriend him, which a lot of
people think sounds corny, but you can't train a bird unless it trusts
you. I had to sit with him night after night and we used to watch
the telly, we watched the X Factor, the One Show. Eventually I got his
trust and he is now in great condition. What does it feel like
to fly with a golden eagle? You can't put it into words. You can't,
but it is like having the most amazing secret that you can't tell
anybody about because they will never understand it. When we fly
together, it is just me and Sampson in his world. I don't have a mobile
phone or any bills of people pestering. It is quiet and you are
sharing the air with the most beautiful bird in the world.
Sampson teaches me a lot about flying because he is born with a
knowledge of the air and thermals and how to use them. I follow him
and you can guarantee sooner or later he will find they left. Most
hang-glider pilots used electronic instruments. I used a golden eagle.
That is cool. Now it is my turn to see him in action. Time for his
That wasn't as we planned! thought -- I said he was raring to
go. We were supposed to have a little chat. Look at him go. If you
watch, he is hardly flapping. The crows are flapping like mad and he
is not beating the wing, he is just gliding. Obviously golden eagles
spend an enormous amount of time in the wild soaring around. They can't
afford to expend energy flapping. Those big wings hold him up without
any effort. Golden eagles were once persecuted almost to the brink of
extinction. But today, there are over 500 wild breeding pairs found
mainly in the Scottish Highlands. With a wingspan of well over two
metres, golden eagles can plummet down on to pray at speeds of up to
50 mph. They are incredibly sharp - their sharp eyesight can see a
rabbit from over a mile away so for Samson spotting a piece of meat in
my hand is a piece of cake. Here he comes. Cricket as tight as you can.
It is incredible. Can you feel the strength? Amazing. Like a
pterodactyl descending. He will take my hand off! I will have to
count all of my fingers later, but being so close to such a majestic
bird and seeing the bond Jonathan and Sampson share has been a truly
Well, there are not many people who can say they have flown with a
golden eagle. It is while doubt here, we are 250 yards at least
from the nearest cafe. -- it is wild. But people have made their
homes here for decades. It is a bit longer than that. One was 6,000
years ago. How do you find the stuff out? You have to look for the
evidence, it is everywhere. Only a few people can spot these clues.
The history of our land. It is a real skill. Thank goodness
Angellica Bell is one of them. Hadrian's Wall in Northumbria, the
boundary of the great Roman Empire which stretched all the way from
here to Syria. It divided the wild tribes of the north from the
citizens of Roman Britain. 90 miles to the south, a surprising new
piece of evidence has emerged about the identity of people living here
under Roman rule. Today York is better known for its Viking
heritage, -- Viking heritage, but it was founded by the heritage --
Romans in 71 A D. It quickly turned into a thriving town. Parts of
there 30 that Roman wall that surrounded the town still stand.
But it is underground that the most exciting discoveries about the
Romans in Britain have been made. This lady is a Roman specialist.
She has been re-examining remains from York dug up in the early 1900s
and has made a surprising new discovery. What have you got to
show us? And interesting find from the Roman York. It is the skull of
a young woman who lived in the fourth century. If we look at her
facial features, the width between her eyes and the shape of the nose
indicate black and so street and then the shape of the nasal spine
and the lower face indicate white ancestry. That suggests she was of
mixed race. Do you think she travelled hit or she was born in
this country? We asked the same question and we looked at her teeth.
Through the water you drink and the food you eat, certain elements are
deposited and this chemical fingerprinting technique tells us
she is almost certainly not from York, she has come from somewhere
slightly warmer, perhaps the Mediterranean. We assume this woman
was a slave. For the Association of Africans and slavery is modern. In
the Roman world, slaves came from other parts of the Empire, and also
has -- skeleton shows us she was living a good life. Her grave goods,
which were found in a stone coffin, tell us she was of very high status.
We have this very beautiful necklace made of blue glass. Also,
some bracelets. This is made of jet, which comes from nearby Whitby. It
shows she was shopping for jewellery in York and one of
elephant ivory. An African connection. Because of that, we
have nicknamed her the ivory bangles lady. What these goods are
saying is she was wealthy. We know the ivory bangles lady was 5 ft 1,
about average for the time. And that she died in her early twenties.
And now, thanks to facial reconstruction, we can reveal for
the first time what she might have looked like. So what was life like
for the ivory bangles lady in the fourth century? Surprisingly, she
was not the only foreign immigrant living in Roman York. The Roman
Empire was similar to the modern EU, with a free flow of people across
Europe. Much like today, Roman York and other British cities were
highly cosmopolitan and multicultural. This street was the
main Roman road in York, and it is amazing to think that even 1,700
years ago, there was a real mix of people. Either might have been a
long way from Rome, but it was not a sleepy suburb. It had great trade
networks and a large population. The ivory bangles lady would have
enjoyed all the trappings of Roman life, such as shopping in the busy
market forum and the favourite pastime of all Roman citizens. This
bath house dates back to the fourth century and was part of a military
fortress. Women would not have been allowed to be a thick, it would
have been full of sweaty soldiers. One of whom might have been the
ivory bangles Lady's husband. As the military hub for Britain's
defence, this was one of the most important towns of the Roman Empire.
It was so important, emperors came here. One of the most famous
imperial visits was in 306 when this chap, Constantine the Great,
was proclaimed Emperor right here in York. It is amazing to think the
ivory bangles lady was living here around the time this great emperor
A mixed-race woman living in York in the fourth century, I just
wasn't expecting that. But the biggest eye-opener for me is
discovering just how much people moved around during the Roman times
and just how multicultural it really was.
That is what the Romans did for us. Along with everything else. It has