Episode 3 The Great British Sewing Bee


Episode 3

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So, the sewers have worked with wool, with cotton,

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they've even sewn with silk.

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This week, is all about how they deal with a totally new fabric.

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To be completely frank, I wasn't sure that there was another one.

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Tell no-one.

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At the last sewing bee...

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Things aren't going very well.

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-Why is that, then?

-I've just sewn my fly shut.

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Tamara and Heather were beaten by Lynda, who won garment of the week.

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It's my pyjamas!

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And Simon...was asked to leave the sewing room.

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Ahh, I'm not sure how to take that.

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Now...

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All I've got going in my head at the moment is, "Arrgh!"

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..the sewers face the fastest pattern challenge so far...

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Will I ever wear leggings? No.

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..alterations that will stretch them to the limit...

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I'm making it up as I go along.

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-No, we can't do that.

-We can.

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..and a made to measure dress...

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-Very stretchy.

-..that clings.

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I don't even want to look. Does she know what I'm doing?

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I want to drown in a bucket of gin.

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The eight remaining sewers are back in East London.

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Last week, I won garment of the week. I've had a little text off my oldest

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daughter telling me to keep up the good work.

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Well, this morning, I've given myself a good talking to.

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I'm going to read the pattern carefully and I'm going to try and do

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everything that it asks for, rather than what I think I should be doing.

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You learn from your other competitors, how I can, perhaps,

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get a bit quicker or a little bit more creative.

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I've been keeping my eye on everybody.

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Last man standing,

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but I think this might be the beginning of the end.

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The sewers will have to make three garments over the next two days,

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and they have no idea what their first challenge will involve.

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Welcome back to the sewing room. How are we all?

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WOMAN: Terrific!

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That's what we want to hear.

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This week, the judges would like to see

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how you cope with stretch fabrics.

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As usual, challenge number one,

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you're given a pattern that you have not seen before.

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May, what is it?

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We'd like you to make a pair of leggings

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and they must fit your mannequin.

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LAUGHTER

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You have an hour and a half. Good luck.

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Off you go.

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The sewers are free to make their leggings from any

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of the stretch fabric in the sewing room's haberdashery.

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I've only practised once with a stretch material, so,

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"Aahh," is what I think of that challenge at the moment.

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If I get this to work I'll be making everyone in school funky

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Friday leggings for Christmas.

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May, Patrick, why stretch?

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Stretch fabrics handle completely differently to woven fabrics.

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You can sculpt them.

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They can fit very closely to the body.

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Does that make them easier to work with or harder?

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They're mobile, they slip around.

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There's an inherent instability in the fabric itself that

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they're going to have to deal with.

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A standard woven fabric consists

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of a stable grid of straight threads,

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whereas stretch fabric is constructed from

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a series of knitted loops,

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whose shape allows the thread to move in different directions.

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The pattern is based on a relatively slight amount of stretch.

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If they are using a fabric that is considerably stretchier,

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they're going to have to adjust the pattern

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and adjust the fit to compensate.

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We do not want to see twisted waistbands, saggy bottoms,

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ill-fitting legs.

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We want to see a smashing pair of leggings.

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I'm looking at the way it stretches,

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cos on the pattern it says two-way stretch, which means

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cos they're leggings, you want them stretching across the legs,

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not up and down.

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Despite being a part-time yoga instructor,

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Tamara has never sewn herself a stretchy outfit for work.

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Knees onto the back of the elbows.

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She's chosen a bold pattern for the first challenge.

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I'm not that confident.

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I've never really had to make anything that's that tightly fitted.

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But you know what I'm going to do, Claudia? I'm going to read the pattern start to finish.

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That's it, read it. Learn it off by heart, in maybe four languages.

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I'm going to come back and test you in 30.

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I've chosen a cat woman, wet look.

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I quite like this.

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Do you remember this, Gracie?

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This was the first time you danced with a boy.

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The first clothes Julie ever made featured stretch fabric -

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she made ballroom dancing outfits for

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her youngest daughter Gracie.

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Aw, happy days, eh?

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-PATRICK:

-This is slick.

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It's a bit S&M, isn't it?

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It does have a hint of that about it!

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Because it's a simple pattern, I thought I'd pick a difficult fabric.

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Cos I need to redeem myself, don't I?

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I see you haven't got a tape measure out?

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For...?

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We do want them to fit.

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I'm just going to check the measurements of the hip

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of the mannequin.

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While the pattern for the leggings is simple, there's a catch.

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The sewers have to cut out just two pieces of stretch fabric,

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sew them together at the crotch, the seat and the inside leg seams.

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The waistband is created by folding a ring of elastic

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into the top edge of the leggings,

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which is secured into place

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with a row of twin-needle stretch stitching.

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I thought, "This is quite simple stuff. Where's the issue?"

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It's obviously in that "must fit" bit.

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The patterns feature lines, marking options for the garment size

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but as the stretchiness of the fabric is variable,

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the marks won't necessarily be accurate.

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So I measured the mannequin.

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I'm going to cut it to fit nicely without stretching it too much.

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I do like this material.

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If it comes out well, I'm going to make myself some cycling shorts.

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David keeps his haberdashery in his garage.

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So far, it hasn't included any stretch fabric.

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You're the only boy left

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and you're making a pair of camo pattern leggings.

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-Yeah.

-I love the way this is happening.

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I'm gutted Simon's gone, cos I can't talk about man stuff any more.

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And at the weekend I bought an impact driver -

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it's the best thing I've ever bought.

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-What is it?

-It's like an impact wrench.

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You bung it on wheel nuts and it goes...

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Like in Formula 1.

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This is amazing. I'm so pleased we had this chat.

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Can he leave?

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One hour left to make a pair of stretch leggings.

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And if they're confident

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they've cut out their pattern pieces correctly...

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Nobody wants baggy leggings.

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..construction can begin.

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This is the first time I've sat at an overlocker

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and all I've got going in my head is, "Arrgh!"

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An overlocker creates neatened seams

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by cutting the edge of the fabric as it sews.

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I'm just doing the crotches.

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It uses three or four threads at the same time

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which wrap around the seam -

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essential for leggings as it creates a stitch

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which stretches with the fabric.

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Here we go...

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But it's a piece of equipment that isn't familiar to everyone.

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I've obviously been missing something all these years.

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Ooh!

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I'm sewing the leg seam, which goes all the way up from the ankle

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and to the crotch and back down again.

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I like it, cos it's quite quick.

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I've got a lot of control over the fabric.

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I think overlockers are a little bit scary

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because they kind of just eat the fabric.

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And unless you're absolutely just bang on where it needs to be,

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I'm sure, actually, you could take chunks out and not know.

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When I'm at home sewing, I spend ages - doing the seam,

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zigzagging, cutting.

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This does it in one. I love the overlocker.

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I need one.

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Lynda bought her first sewing machine

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after her daughter Sarah was born.

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She began making clothes for all her children.

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They were called pedal pushers

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and her friend up the street loved them.

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So her mum popped up to the shops straightaway,

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got the material and they both sat watching me making hers

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because they both wanted to dress the same.

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You seem to be storming ahead here.

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Do I? Really?

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Yeah.

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Lynda is the first sewer ready to check the fit on her mannequin.

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-PATRICK:

-Yours is quite stretchy, though.

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Ssh, don't say that. Mine's perfect.

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That's perfect, Patrick, for leggings.

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-You know what?

-Voila.

-It's not bad.

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You can't even see the seam at the side, look.

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Ha-ha!

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There isn't one.

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When I went and put them on the dummy, you've to look inside

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to see which is the bottom bit and which is the other bit.

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The judges will expect a fit that hugs the body.

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But one that still allows movement and doesn't sag.

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-It'll be all right.

-Yeah.

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It needs to go in a little bit more, actually.

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Chinelo has made dozens of outfits for herself and her sister Chica.

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It's like coming into a mall every time I come to her house.

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I go home with lots of goodies.

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But almost always in a non-stretch, woven fabric.

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When I put it on my mannequin it was a bit baggy at the crotch area,

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so I thought, "That doesn't look fitted."

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So I just took it in a little bit there.

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It does stretch quite a bit that way, doesn't it?

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So you have got to make sure it fits your mannequin.

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Because it stretches that way,

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it will cling round the line of the body.

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Whereas if you put the stretch the other way,

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it just pulls out when you're wearing them -

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they get longer and longer.

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The stretch fabrics in the sewing room's haberdashery all

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contain Lycra, a fibre which gives it varying degrees of springiness.

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It was originally pioneered in the late 1950s to make women's

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girdles more comfortable.

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Up until then, they were made of rubber, which was stiff and sweaty.

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American chemical company DuPont decided to find an alternative.

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What DuPont did was they asked women,

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"If you could have anything in the world, what would you like?"

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And they said, "A comfortable girdle."

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So it took DuPont 20 years to actually invent a comfortable fibre.

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What exactly is Lycra?

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It's bonded polyurethane, which is

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two sorts of chemicals that you put together to make fibres,

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and depending on what you put together,

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the fibres are different -

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some are resilient, some are firm, some are stretchy.

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And Lycra is made out of a sort of straight one

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and a corkscrew one that are bonded together under high pressure

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and that's what it looks like.

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They call this the fibre that loves you back.

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It's like a hug, it's not like a strangle,

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which is what the old girdles were.

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The new fabric transformed the production of the girdle,

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but in the 1960s when girdles fell out of fashion,

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it seemed that there was no further use for this new fabric.

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How did Lycra make its way back in?

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DuPont spent a lot of time trying to save the girdle,

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but meanwhile, there were these warehouses full of Lycra.

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And, just about this time, aerobics start,

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and a few small seamstresses think,

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"Why don't we use this underwear stuff to make interesting workout clothes?"

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And that's how it happened.

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Lycra leotards were soon seen up and down the country

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in aerobics and dance classes.

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But it was the vision of one London dance teacher that would see Lycra

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make the leap from gym clothes to clothes, and that was Debbie Moore.

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In 1979, she decided that what London needed was a dance studio,

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and not just for dancers but for ordinary men and women.

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She bought an old pineapple warehouse here in Covent Garden

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and called it Pineapple Dance Studios.

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Hr clients were all wearing Lycra dance wear,

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but she spotted room for improvement.

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They had shiny nylon Lycra, and it was very sweaty for them,

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and the dance wear was like school uniform dance wear.

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I thought, "Wouldn't it be great to have cotton with Lycra?"

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And that's when I went to DuPont.

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Working with DuPont, Debbie developed cotton/Lycra leotards -

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natural, comfortable and breathable, with high-cut legs,

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low-cut fronts and backs, it was ideal for Debbie's dancers.

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It wasn't long, really, before I thought how great this

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fabric would be for a pull-on skirt, or for a strappy dress, or something.

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From then on, with this wonderful fabric, it was endless to make

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wonderful long-sleeved, scoop-necked dresses, beautiful necklines.

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And we were the first people to put Lycra into outerwear.

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I mean, it was a total revolution in the way people dressed, overnight.

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It was amazing.

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Debbie's determination to make comfy clothes for her dancers resulted

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in taking what people were wearing in the studios out onto the street.

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Soon, cotton Lycra was appearing in all sorts of street wear,

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from dresses to suits,

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totally transforming the clothes people wear.

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You're halfway through, everybody - 45 minutes left.

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Every pair of leggings should be

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topped with an elasticated waistband.

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Pin the elastic around side of waist, matching pins,

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with the edge of elastic even with the edge of the waist,

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and the seam on the elastic lined up at the centre legging.

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Stitch on top of the elastic along

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the outside edge with the overlocker.

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Stretch elastic to fit, if necessary.

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That's easy.

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What you do is you take your elastic

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and you divide your elastic up into sections.

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-Can you see I've got a pin there?

-Yeah.

-A pin there.

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So, into quarters?

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Then what you do is do exactly the same

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on the top of your pair of leggings, match a pin to a pin.

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So what happens is, you have it pinned at intervals,

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and it's completely controlled.

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So the fullness here goes into the band. When you've sewn that,

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wrapped that over and stitched it,

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this will be completely flat.

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You've distributed all the fullness evenly onto the elastic.

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-And that's what you're after?

-Absolutely.

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Years ago, I think I made a sort of tennis outfit

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and I'm sure that had a waistband like this.

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You had to make 1970s frilly knickers

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to go with your tennis dress.

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I seem to remember doing...

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It's a long time ago.

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Both of Cerina's daughters attended dance classes since they were young,

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But neither of them have ever asked her to make any leggings.

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My mum's very clever in that she can make her own patterns,

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so I can just draw a dress and say, "I'd like that, please."

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My friends are so jealous, it's crazy,

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because I always have a different dress that nobody else will have.

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I've got to pull the elastic to match the length of the fabric,

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but not over-pull it or else you'd get a sort of fluting effect.

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If the sewers don't maintain an even tension as they stitch

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their elastic to the stretch fabric...

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How is the stretch of your fabric versus the stretch of your elastic?

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The fabric needs to be pulled slightly but not an awful lot.

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..the waistband will pucker, making it impossible to lie flat.

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You stretch the elastic the same time

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and you've got to get your fabric aligned with the edge

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so it doesn't all get chewed up like this.

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I don't know how to get out of this now.

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My job is, I train dressage riders.

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There's a lot of similarities between dressage and sewing.

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The fact that you have to have precision

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and you've just got to go for it.

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Heather's decided to cut away her first attempt at sewing the elastic.

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Fortunately this is actually really easy to undo.

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You have 30 minutes left, sewers.

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Fold elastic and from the right edge of leggings...

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Stitch...

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Stitch on inner edge...with a twin stretch needle.

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No idea what that means.

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Well, that's where I sewed the elastic with the overlocker.

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Now we've got to turn it over, like that,

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and sew from the right side with a twin needle.

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So I'll have two rows of parallel stitching along the waistband

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and along the bottoms.

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I never knew a twin needle existed.

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Me neither, David - this is a new world for all of us.

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We've got two needles, going into one socket

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so you do two rows of stitching and then the bottom thread

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zigzags between the two top rows of stitching.

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It makes it slightly stretchy.

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Here we go.

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This twin row of stitching should ensure the waistband is secure

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and lies flat against the body.

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You've got to feel for the elastic

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and just run it around the edge and then it secures the waistband.

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And as it will be visible on the outside of the leggings,

0:16:580:17:00

it must look perfectly straight.

0:17:000:17:02

Come on, come on.

0:17:020:17:04

This is better than my wedding night, David.

0:17:040:17:06

But it's not proving a pleasure for everyone.

0:17:080:17:10

The needle keeps chewing up the fabric. It don't like the fabric.

0:17:140:17:17

I've finished my leggings

0:17:170:17:19

so I just thought I might put a little cheeky pocket on.

0:17:190:17:22

I've just had a loud little voice in my head going,

0:17:220:17:25

"What are you doing?"

0:17:250:17:26

Jenni began making her own clothes a year ago.

0:17:260:17:29

One of her favourite creations is a floral stretch leotard

0:17:290:17:32

to which she added tassels.

0:17:320:17:34

If I had to describe my sewing, whether it's the fabric I'm using

0:17:340:17:39

or the patterns I'm choosing or just, yeah, I'd say crazy.

0:17:390:17:43

-Let's hope this works.

-Sewers, you've got five minutes left.

0:17:440:17:49

Right.

0:17:490:17:50

Jenni shouldn't have done the pocket.

0:17:500:17:53

It's asking for a two-centimetre hem at the bottom.

0:17:530:17:57

I'm struggling to put pins in the hem of this legging leg.

0:17:570:18:02

SHE WHISPERS

0:18:020:18:04

Hold your breath.

0:18:040:18:06

-Keep going.

-Turn! Turn! Turn!

0:18:190:18:22

It's doing it again.

0:18:300:18:31

I don't think May's going to like that, is she, in the crotch?

0:18:370:18:40

They look mangled, but we have pocket.

0:18:420:18:44

Do I wear leggings? No. Will I ever wear leggings?

0:18:440:18:48

-No.

-Dave, I'll lend you these.

0:18:480:18:51

-The shiny ones?

-I'll lend you me S&M ones!

0:18:510:18:53

I tell you what, for a small fee I'll wear them for you.

0:18:530:18:56

Sewers, you have one minute left.

0:18:560:18:59

Please put your leggings on your mannequins.

0:18:590:19:02

I can't dress the thing.

0:19:110:19:13

It's like trying to dress the biggest toddler ever.

0:19:130:19:16

Oh, my God.

0:19:220:19:23

Come on, girl, you're nearly there.

0:19:270:19:30

OK, everybody - that's it.

0:19:300:19:31

Look at these bad boys!

0:19:330:19:35

Eight pairs of stretch leggings in just 90 minutes,

0:19:400:19:43

but what will the judges think?

0:19:430:19:45

Cerina, bring your legs forward.

0:19:450:19:47

I'm a little bit worried about your girl

0:19:510:19:54

and the tightness of her leggings.

0:19:540:19:56

Well, the fabric's stretched out and it's almost see-through.

0:19:560:20:00

Your waistband is well executed.

0:20:000:20:02

Sits very flatly to the waist and a nice even row of double stitching.

0:20:020:20:08

How's Mrs Shiny Legs round the back?

0:20:130:20:16

What we've got here, unfortunately, is a bit of a saggy bottom.

0:20:170:20:21

It's in complete contrast to the front, which looks great, doesn't it?

0:20:210:20:24

You did pick a particularly tricky fabric.

0:20:240:20:27

The waistband, again, a little bit of bagginess.

0:20:270:20:31

We've got some twisting where the elastic isn't flat.

0:20:310:20:34

I love this fabric, I could see it on the dance floor.

0:20:400:20:43

You've done a really good job of making it run round the body.

0:20:430:20:47

A little bit of bagging round there, but minor detail.

0:20:470:20:50

There's a little bit of excess just sitting on the top of that elastic.

0:20:500:20:54

There are fit issues but a very good use of pattern.

0:20:540:20:57

She's got one cheek that fits and the other one doesn't.

0:21:010:21:05

Looking at this side, it's perfect, and the other side...

0:21:050:21:09

And it wasn't too bad until I started fiddling with it as well.

0:21:090:21:11

Interesting.

0:21:110:21:13

The waistband is nowhere near horizontal.

0:21:150:21:18

It's running right up at the back.

0:21:180:21:20

If we do push it down so it's sitting horizontal,

0:21:200:21:23

we end up with a great big gather at the back.

0:21:230:21:25

And she's also got a saggy bottom.

0:21:250:21:27

She has.

0:21:270:21:28

-Not the best thing we've seen from you so far, I'm afraid.

-No. No.

0:21:280:21:31

I think, overall, the fit is good. The right amount of give.

0:21:370:21:41

The waistband is very flat

0:21:410:21:43

and the twin-needle stitching is very even.

0:21:430:21:47

The seams, the seams look very neat.

0:21:470:21:49

And the twin-needle hem is looking good.

0:21:490:21:52

And the pattern is running quite nicely straight,

0:21:520:21:54

it's not twisting around the leg at all.

0:21:540:21:57

-Um...

-Yes...

0:22:050:22:07

LAUGHTER

0:22:070:22:09

-Yeah, we don't need to say it, do we?

-We had a chat.

0:22:090:22:11

We had a chat with the model and she wanted more room, so...

0:22:110:22:14

She was hoping to carry her sandwiches down the back

0:22:140:22:17

of her trousers.

0:22:170:22:19

You've also added a pocket for us.

0:22:190:22:21

-It's really not at all neat.

-It really doesn't add anything.

0:22:210:22:24

I like a cheeky pocket myself.

0:22:240:22:26

Well, you don't need one with all this!

0:22:260:22:28

Just a tiny bit of give behind here, but on the whole, a good fit.

0:22:350:22:39

A nice flat band around the waist

0:22:390:22:41

and your twin-needle stitching is nice and flat.

0:22:410:22:45

My only comment is that the waist is a bit low down.

0:22:450:22:48

-It's fashion!

-Yes, I wouldn't want to wear mine that low down.

0:22:480:22:51

May favours the Simon Cowell approach to leggings.

0:22:510:22:54

Patrick and May will now rank the leggings, from worst to best.

0:22:570:23:01

Eighth place, sadly, Jenni. Not a great fit,

0:23:010:23:04

and I think you struggled with one or two of the techniques there.

0:23:040:23:06

Seventh place, it's Heather. A few issues with wobbly waistbands.

0:23:060:23:11

Julie's sixth, Chinelo's fifth,

0:23:110:23:14

Tamara's fourth, and Cerina is third.

0:23:140:23:16

In second place, David!

0:23:170:23:19

Very well executed, good fit, nice and neat overall.

0:23:190:23:23

In first place, Lynda!

0:23:230:23:25

Your waistband is lovely and flat, no ripples, really good fit!

0:23:250:23:29

Well done!

0:23:290:23:31

So well done to all of you, especially Lynda!

0:23:340:23:37

Go, lie down, maybe put the leggings on! If you want to!

0:23:370:23:41

I had a text off both of my daughters, telling me

0:23:450:23:48

they wanted me to come first today.

0:23:480:23:50

So I think they're both going to be very, very pleased and proud of me.

0:23:500:23:54

My confidence has grown. Yeah, I'm hopefully climbing that ladder!

0:23:540:23:57

Quite disappointed finishing sixth because the fabric I used was

0:23:570:24:00

probably ten times more difficult than anybody else's fabric.

0:24:000:24:04

Cheeky pocket didn't work. Hey, but I got some mustard slacks.

0:24:040:24:07

Slack being the operative word, but, hey, I like a good baggy bum!

0:24:070:24:11

Now it's time for our alteration challenge.

0:24:130:24:15

This is when Patrick and May want to see what the sewers can do

0:24:150:24:18

with something they could have found on the high street.

0:24:180:24:21

It's pretty basic, but I can tell you, it stretches.

0:24:210:24:24

This week, we've given you...

0:24:260:24:28

..a big, baggy, stretchy T-shirt.

0:24:300:24:33

Change the armholes, change the necks, change the sleeves.

0:24:330:24:37

Just make this really boring garment really exciting.

0:24:370:24:40

You have an hour and a half. Good luck! Go!

0:24:400:24:44

A stretch T-shirt like this can be found on any high street.

0:24:460:24:50

I'm going to try and do something dramatic

0:24:500:24:52

cos normally I'm quite boring.

0:24:520:24:53

For the next 90 minutes, the sewers are completely on their own.

0:24:530:24:57

Excuse me, I'm just coming back for that.

0:24:570:24:59

No! That's mine! Get off!

0:24:590:25:01

-You can have some of it, if you want.

-No.

0:25:010:25:03

There are no rules,

0:25:030:25:04

but so they can surprise the judges with their creativity,

0:25:040:25:07

the judges won't be in the sewing room to see them work.

0:25:070:25:11

Oh, God, here we go. I'm rubbish at this.

0:25:110:25:14

-This is a huge expanse of material, here.

-Mm.

0:25:150:25:18

The most obvious thing to do is to chop it right down,

0:25:180:25:21

and sort of drastically reshape it. We can do a lot with the shoulders,

0:25:210:25:24

we can do a lot with the shape of this neck.

0:25:240:25:26

You know, you could extend it and actually make a dress out of what we've got here.

0:25:260:25:30

If they're taking fabrics from the haberdashery,

0:25:300:25:32

they've got to be careful that when we combine two fabrics...

0:25:320:25:35

I mean, this one's really stretchy, isn't it?

0:25:350:25:37

And this one is really firm.

0:25:370:25:40

Immediately we put those two together, you've got completely different mobility, there.

0:25:400:25:44

So therefore, if they're embellishing, edging, applying,

0:25:440:25:47

they need to make sure that this fabric doesn't stretch this one out of shape.

0:25:470:25:51

I'm going to make it into a ladies' top

0:25:510:25:53

and put a bit of ruching around the neck.

0:25:530:25:56

I'll make it a low back, where that V is there.

0:25:560:25:58

And then I'll make a ruffle out of that.

0:25:580:26:00

It's lovely, this!

0:26:000:26:02

They've only had two minutes.

0:26:020:26:03

You've already turned this into the best top I've ever seen.

0:26:030:26:06

This is the sleeve. This is the neck.

0:26:060:26:08

Is that what you're going to do?!

0:26:080:26:10

Yes, either top or dress. I haven't decided yet.

0:26:100:26:13

I'm making a halter neck, plunge backline, draped through the back, with a frilly collar.

0:26:130:26:17

I'm going to do a crazy V neck, and it's going to be a big zip.

0:26:170:26:21

Get rid of the sleeves, don't need those.

0:26:210:26:24

Another zip. Ooh, good idea.

0:26:240:26:27

I'm going to slash the back and plait it,

0:26:270:26:29

and then finish the armhole and neckline with...

0:26:290:26:34

-Ooh!

-..open zipped.

0:26:340:26:36

-Look, I have a zip trim!

-Going with your theme, see.

-Come on.

0:26:360:26:40

I'm going to make a child's dancing dress.

0:26:420:26:44

So I'm going to have some pink on it.

0:26:440:26:47

And some more pink. It might be over ambitious

0:26:470:26:50

cos I'm doing a lot of re-cutting,

0:26:500:26:51

but I was really surprised how easy the overlocker was to use,

0:26:510:26:55

and the double needle, as well,

0:26:550:26:56

so I'm hoping I can just make the most of that.

0:26:560:26:59

-I'm making an asymmetric maxi dress.

-Are you?!

-Yeah.

0:26:590:27:01

This is the skirt of my maxi dress. This is the top of it.

0:27:010:27:04

You have done so well on these challenges.

0:27:040:27:07

But you know, when they're going "Ah, one and two, they're about the same..."

0:27:070:27:10

-I know.

-You must want to be number one.

-Yeah, my eye's on Tamara today.

0:27:100:27:14

Yes!

0:27:140:27:15

Sewers, you have one hour left.

0:27:150:27:18

It's not that I dislike the challenge,

0:27:180:27:20

it's that I dislike the amount of time.

0:27:200:27:22

I got the inspiration from the collar

0:27:220:27:24

because it just slips over your head nicely,

0:27:240:27:27

so I can use it as an anchor point for the garment.

0:27:270:27:30

-What are you doing?

-Pass. I was hoping you could tell me!

0:27:300:27:32

Do you not know?

0:27:320:27:34

I've put it back to front, and fitted it.

0:27:340:27:36

I'm making it up as I go along.

0:27:360:27:38

-No! We can't do that!

-We can!

0:27:380:27:40

OK, this is the tricky bit now - this is where I'm going to slash it.

0:27:400:27:43

I've not done this before, but I've seen it,

0:27:430:27:45

so I think I know how it's going to work.

0:27:450:27:48

Pull. That would go there.

0:27:480:27:51

That would go there.

0:27:530:27:55

That would go there.

0:27:550:27:57

And finally, that would go there.

0:27:570:27:59

And that's the back.

0:27:590:28:00

Don't want a baggy bottom. SHE LAUGHS

0:28:000:28:05

Can't be showing your knickers, can you?

0:28:050:28:07

I'm using stretch bias binding because the fabric is stretchy,

0:28:070:28:10

so then you need one that's going to sit with it.

0:28:100:28:12

I'm making some binding, and then I'm going to trim the neck with it.

0:28:120:28:15

They always say I'm not dramatic enough, so I want to be more dramatic.

0:28:150:28:19

That's going to look nice.

0:28:190:28:21

Everyone, you have half an hour left for your transformations.

0:28:210:28:25

Basically popping some binding into the sleeve hole which I cut out.

0:28:250:28:31

Just to try and neaten it, and give it a bit of finish.

0:28:310:28:35

I'm just going to bind round the armholes.

0:28:350:28:37

I'm attaching the skirt to the bodice.

0:28:370:28:40

This is a stretch fabric as well, actually.

0:28:400:28:42

I don't even want to look. Does she know what I'm doing?

0:28:420:28:45

CHINELO LAUGHS

0:28:480:28:50

I'm going to make a tube skirt.

0:28:500:28:52

So it's going to have quite a blouson effect on the top half of the skirt.

0:28:520:28:56

On the bottom it'll be like a little tube mini-skirt.

0:28:560:28:59

Flouncy! What is that?

0:28:590:29:01

That's going to be a ruche with a little, a little...

0:29:010:29:05

A ruche? You are pure filth, and I mean that in a brilliant way.

0:29:050:29:08

I love ya!

0:29:080:29:09

I'm just in the process of doing a double layer of stitching on my hems

0:29:090:29:13

so my zip doesn't roll.

0:29:130:29:15

As you can see, my hem's sitting flat now against the garment,

0:29:150:29:18

whereas if I didn't do that it would kick out.

0:29:180:29:20

Let me just have a look at that specimen.

0:29:200:29:22

It's a dress, and depending on how risque you wish to be...

0:29:220:29:29

I think, instead of doing darts,

0:29:290:29:30

I might put some zips in the back,

0:29:300:29:33

-which can be zipped up...

-Yeah.

-..And then turned into darts.

0:29:330:29:35

OK. Brilliant.

0:29:350:29:37

Sewers, you've got five minutes left,

0:29:390:29:42

and then I'm bringing the scary people in.

0:29:420:29:44

Oh, look at that!

0:29:440:29:46

I'm just trying to put a bit of embellishment on it,

0:29:460:29:48

just to finish it off.

0:29:480:29:50

I wanted to put shoulder pads in, but we don't have those.

0:29:500:29:52

So I'm just giving it a little lift with a pleat in the sleeve.

0:29:520:29:56

I'm fairly happy. I've got some drapery.

0:29:560:29:57

Hopefully it shows a bit of imagination.

0:29:570:30:00

It's going to be very glamorous with all these sequins on.

0:30:000:30:03

Might make a little belt out of that, as well.

0:30:030:30:06

It might not do up!

0:30:060:30:07

Will that go? Yes, it will.

0:30:070:30:09

Breathe in!

0:30:100:30:12

Yes, it does!

0:30:120:30:14

You have 40 seconds.

0:30:150:30:17

Aw!

0:30:280:30:30

OK, that's it! Time! David, don't touch it!

0:30:330:30:37

This is very sexy stuff, isn't it?

0:30:370:30:39

This is my inner secret woman coming out. JULIE LAUGHS

0:30:390:30:41

Please bring your mannequins to the front and then we'll jumble them up.

0:30:430:30:47

# I can't tell a waltz from a tango

0:30:470:30:50

# I never know what my feet Are gonna do... #

0:30:500:30:54

May and Patrick will now have absolutely no idea whose alterations are whose.

0:30:540:30:58

These poor people started with this.

0:30:580:31:02

Once again, I think you've pulled something spectacular out of the bag.

0:31:020:31:06

-May?

-I'm speechless.

0:31:060:31:07

It's a very dramatic change.

0:31:100:31:12

Pleats, gathers, darts.

0:31:120:31:15

It's stretched. She's got one area which is... Ooh!

0:31:150:31:18

Trying to climb out.

0:31:180:31:20

This is like somebody's shrunken Madonna

0:31:250:31:27

and thrown her on a mannequin.

0:31:270:31:29

I'd want to go out in that.

0:31:290:31:31

And it's a really great use of a couple of simple bits of trim.

0:31:310:31:34

I think it's just a really good understanding of what you can do

0:31:340:31:37

-with a piece of clothing.

-Yes.

0:31:370:31:39

Huge scoop taken out of the back.

0:31:430:31:46

And combining different fabrics.

0:31:460:31:47

Lovely colour combination. Very fresh.

0:31:470:31:50

It's just drooped out of shape.

0:31:500:31:52

This V at the front needed to have been a little more cleanly executed.

0:31:520:31:55

Nice simple combination of colours, well chosen.

0:32:000:32:04

-A really good transformation, isn't it?

-Yep.

0:32:040:32:06

The fit is really good, and we've got contrasting fabric

0:32:060:32:09

going round these edges, and it would've been

0:32:090:32:11

so easy to have stretched them completely out of shape.

0:32:110:32:14

-And I love the ruching at the sides.

-Yep.

0:32:140:32:16

This one, outwardly, looks one of the simpler ones,

0:32:200:32:24

but actually, only because I think it's just been executed so very well.

0:32:240:32:28

The skirt looks even. It's falling well.

0:32:280:32:31

I mean, we've got a transformation of the neckline.

0:32:310:32:33

The shoulders have been reduced, the sleeves have been re-introduced.

0:32:330:32:36

Look how well that has been joined.

0:32:360:32:38

-Absolutely.

-Two fabrics, we could've had this completely stretched out of shape.

0:32:380:32:42

If we look at the side seam,

0:32:420:32:43

I mean, it's absolutely perfectly lined up.

0:32:430:32:46

And it's straight.

0:32:460:32:47

An interesting idea to use zips to give shape.

0:32:510:32:55

Sadly, the zip has stretched the front of the jersey.

0:32:550:32:58

It's ambitious, but I think it's just let down in the execution.

0:32:580:33:02

-A very interesting idea.

-Yes.

0:33:060:33:08

However, we've got a bit of stretching on the armholes.

0:33:080:33:12

It would've been nicer to see these a little more evenly distributed.

0:33:120:33:15

All of this fullness here, it's very dramatic,

0:33:150:33:17

it's just slightly let down by a few areas

0:33:170:33:19

where it's not sewn quite as well as it could be.

0:33:190:33:22

Very dramatic, both front and back.

0:33:270:33:30

For it to work and hold together and still hold the shape

0:33:300:33:33

-is a good effect.

-Yep.

0:33:330:33:34

We've also got our rigid zip and our stretchy fabric,

0:33:340:33:37

but the actual T-shirt part of this isn't stretched out of shape.

0:33:370:33:41

May and Patrick will now rearrange the transformed T-shirts

0:33:420:33:45

into order, and reveal which has shown the most creative ambition

0:33:450:33:49

and the best technical execution.

0:33:490:33:51

-So, you're happy with this order.

-Yes.

0:33:520:33:55

Please could the creator of number eight come up?

0:33:550:33:58

Love the idea of using zips, David,

0:33:580:34:01

however, in putting it on your top, you stretched it out of shape.

0:34:010:34:04

Could the creator of this one come up?

0:34:040:34:07

Sadly, the armholes are stretched right out of shape.

0:34:070:34:10

Lynda is sixth, Tamara fifth,

0:34:110:34:14

Jenni fourth, and Heather is third.

0:34:140:34:18

All right, we're down to the last two.

0:34:180:34:21

OK, the maxi dress creator, please come forward.

0:34:230:34:27

-Chinelo!

-Ah, once again - so near, but yet so far.

0:34:270:34:30

Very close-run thing. The only reason that you didn't come first

0:34:300:34:34

was because that was a much more dramatic transformation.

0:34:340:34:37

-Therefore, well done, Cerina!

-APPLAUSE

0:34:370:34:40

On sheer, kind of, joyous transformation,

0:34:420:34:44

good old mini-Madge has definitely brought a smile to all of our faces.

0:34:440:34:48

That just goes to show what you can do with a big T-shirt.

0:34:480:34:51

Thank you so much for today.

0:34:510:34:53

Go home, put on stretchy fabric, do stretchy dance moves

0:34:530:34:56

and we'll see you tomorrow for the big stretch challenge.

0:34:560:34:59

I can't believe it!

0:35:010:35:02

But when I saw Patrick said he'd quite like to wear it himself,

0:35:020:35:05

I thought, "Ooh, maybe it's a winner!"

0:35:050:35:08

When Patrick said "nearly", I was like, "Oh, my gosh!" The curse of the second.

0:35:080:35:11

I need to really break through that second barrier

0:35:110:35:14

and get to the first!

0:35:140:35:16

I thought the judges were a little bit harsh.

0:35:160:35:19

I thought I'd do better than I did.

0:35:190:35:21

It is official that I am rubbish in the alteration challenge!

0:35:210:35:25

If I'd had the option to take it out and not present it,

0:35:250:35:28

I think I would've done.

0:35:280:35:29

# If I had a needle and thread Tell you what I'd do... #

0:35:320:35:38

There's one challenge remaining before one sewer will be awarded garment of the week,

0:35:380:35:42

and another will be asked to leave the Sewing Bee.

0:35:420:35:45

I'm really worried about Julie, Jenni and David.

0:35:450:35:48

Jenni didn't really have a clue how to deal with jersey

0:35:500:35:53

because she did not fit her leggings.

0:35:530:35:56

In Julie's alteration it was a poor choice of fabrics

0:35:560:35:58

and it was pretty tattily executed.

0:35:580:36:00

Both of her garments didn't show the best use of a stretch fabric.

0:36:000:36:05

David managed the leggings better than most, I think.

0:36:050:36:07

But then his alteration was disappointing.

0:36:070:36:09

Hopefully, with my boy hat on,

0:36:090:36:11

he's going to pull something decent out the bag.

0:36:110:36:15

In this final challenge, the mannequins are gone

0:36:150:36:17

and the models have returned.

0:36:170:36:19

Lovely to see you again!

0:36:190:36:20

Good morning, everybody. Are we feeling stretchy?

0:36:200:36:22

-ALL: Yes!

-Excellent.

0:36:220:36:24

The judges would love you to make a beautiful stretch wrap dress.

0:36:240:36:29

You've got five hours. Good luck. Your time starts now.

0:36:290:36:35

This is the one challenge the sewers have been allowed to practise.

0:36:360:36:39

They're already chosen their pattern and stretch fabric.

0:36:390:36:42

Now they have to fit the wrap dress that they've practised to the model for the first time.

0:36:420:36:47

I want to see them making the best use of a stretch fabric

0:36:470:36:50

to create something that's elegant and figure hugging.

0:36:500:36:53

Beautifully balanced, well fitted.

0:36:530:36:55

I would like to see some wonderful edges.

0:36:550:36:57

It's so easy in a wrap, because it's across the body,

0:36:570:37:00

to stretch it completely out of the shape.

0:37:000:37:03

They've got to be really careful.

0:37:030:37:04

I like to think of this competition as extreme sewing,

0:37:040:37:07

like you've been thrown out of a plane, skydiving, with a sewing machine.

0:37:070:37:11

I'm going for big '70s flare.

0:37:170:37:20

With the big wizard sleeves.

0:37:200:37:22

-Yeah.

-It's a nice firm jersey, though, isn't it? It's not too slippery.

0:37:220:37:25

No, no - it's nice to work with.

0:37:250:37:26

If you fit it nicely and execute it well, all should be marvellous.

0:37:260:37:30

Fingers crossed.

0:37:300:37:31

I chose this because it's very loud.

0:37:310:37:34

It's just a bit bolshie, I suppose. I like it.

0:37:340:37:37

-Have you made this before?

-I made it once for my wife.

0:37:450:37:47

And how did it go?

0:37:470:37:49

Not too great - she complained about the fact it made her look fat,

0:37:490:37:52

because I should have taken into consideration her larger hips.

0:37:520:37:57

OK, you know she might be watching this?

0:37:570:37:59

When I show her this, I'll hide all the scissors.

0:37:590:38:01

Yeah, I would!

0:38:010:38:03

The fabric's really stretchy, so, um...

0:38:030:38:06

Yeah, it's stretchier than the fabric I used for the leggings.

0:38:060:38:10

I've already measured my model, I've just got to make sure

0:38:160:38:19

I get the pattern placed in the right places, so that you don't

0:38:190:38:22

suddenly find you've not got enough fabric for a sleeve.

0:38:220:38:25

So, that's why it's quite important to follow the plans they set out.

0:38:250:38:30

As usual, Chinelo's making her own plans.

0:38:300:38:33

You have your model glued to the side.

0:38:330:38:35

I have to take all the measurements,

0:38:350:38:37

I need every little contour so I can't just do

0:38:370:38:40

the waist, bust, hips - it has to be every little thing.

0:38:400:38:42

I get a good fit that way.

0:38:420:38:44

I just absolutely love velvet,

0:38:520:38:53

and I thought it would show a bit of skill working with the pile.

0:38:530:38:56

What have you to consider when working with the pile on velvet?

0:38:560:38:59

I'm using it in one direction,

0:38:590:39:01

so, basically, it's all going to shine the same way.

0:39:010:39:03

Brilliant. Brilliant.

0:39:030:39:05

I haven't done very well this week, so I can't really relax.

0:39:050:39:08

I would love my mum to be here now, with a nice cup of tea.

0:39:080:39:11

The only thing I'm concerned about is, because it's very stretchy fabric,

0:39:170:39:21

the dress will pull the bodice down and stretch it that way.

0:39:210:39:24

This is the pin dog.

0:39:250:39:27

What's he called? Hasn't he got a name? Lancelot? Percival?

0:39:270:39:30

-Horatio!

-Horatio!

0:39:300:39:33

About ten pieces in the wrap dress to make.

0:39:330:39:36

They're all cut out and ready to go.

0:39:360:39:38

Construction begins with the bodice of the wrap dress.

0:39:380:39:41

I'm just threading my machine up and then I'll sew a little bit of fabric

0:39:410:39:44

to make sure it's the right needle, to see if it's sewing nice.

0:39:440:39:47

It's an area of the dress where the stretch fabric must hug the body...

0:39:470:39:50

You need to make sure you're not falling out everywhere,

0:39:500:39:53

so hopefully I've got that one covered.

0:39:530:39:55

-..and mustn't sag.

-That looks all right.

0:39:550:39:58

I actually don't like wrap dresses.

0:39:580:40:00

I hate them even more now!

0:40:000:40:03

Heather's playing it safe...

0:40:030:40:06

It's quite a nice hefty jersey, isn't it?

0:40:100:40:12

And this has got a lovely drape on it.

0:40:120:40:15

It's going to be more classically tailored. A simpler line, basically.

0:40:150:40:19

Yeah, it's just more to my taste.

0:40:190:40:20

Most of the sewers have chosen to begin construction

0:40:230:40:26

on their sewing machines.

0:40:260:40:28

But some have chosen the overlocker.

0:40:330:40:36

With this machine,

0:40:360:40:39

it should mean I'm only going up each seam the once.

0:40:390:40:41

Whereas if I was using a sewing machine,

0:40:410:40:44

I'd have to do three lots on each seam,

0:40:440:40:47

I'd have to do the seam,

0:40:470:40:49

and then neatening either side. So this should save me time.

0:40:490:40:53

I'm most worried about the fit,

0:40:530:40:55

because that actually chops off the excess as you're sewing it.

0:40:550:40:59

So if it doesn't fit, if it's too small, that's it.

0:40:590:41:04

Lynda is making a classic wrap-fronted dress...

0:41:040:41:07

I've just found out that I'm a coward.

0:41:110:41:14

Because I've erred on the side of caution

0:41:140:41:18

and gone back to using the stretched stitch on the normal sewing machine

0:41:180:41:22

rather than the overlocker,

0:41:220:41:24

because I think if I cut the seam off and it's too small, I've had it.

0:41:240:41:29

Mmm! That's OK!

0:41:350:41:37

How long have we had?

0:41:410:41:42

-9.30, 10.30... So we've had two hours.

-OK.

0:41:420:41:46

A wrap dress has particularly long exposed edges.

0:41:460:41:50

-So it goes that way, does it?

-Usually, yeah.

0:41:500:41:53

Along the wrap itself,

0:41:530:41:54

as it stretches across the front of the body...

0:41:540:41:56

The front, right in your face,

0:41:560:41:58

so it's worth undoing and doing it again.

0:41:580:42:01

..and around the neckline.

0:42:010:42:03

With stretch fabric, the longer an exposed edge,

0:42:030:42:06

the more unstable the fabric can become...

0:42:060:42:08

SHE WINCES

0:42:080:42:11

..ruining the shape of the dress.

0:42:110:42:13

Stabilising is when you put a slightly firmer fabric

0:42:130:42:16

behind a stretchy fabric to stop it from pulling out of shape.

0:42:160:42:20

On a shoulder line, if you don't have a stabiliser,

0:42:200:42:23

it'll stretch and stretch and stretch.

0:42:230:42:25

Whereas if you put a little bit of tape in it,

0:42:250:42:27

it'll stop it from going right out of shape.

0:42:270:42:30

David's attempting to stabilise his neck line with facing -

0:42:310:42:35

a supporting fabric that's sewn onto the reverse of the garment.

0:42:350:42:38

We're doing a facing that goes round the neck. This is the neck bit here,

0:42:380:42:42

and you don't want to stretch that because it sits comfortably on the neck,

0:42:420:42:45

whereas if it was stretched, it would pull all the time.

0:42:450:42:48

Tamara aims to stabilise her edges with her own bias binding.

0:42:480:42:52

What I'll do is, I'll fold it back on itself,

0:42:520:42:54

so we've got a nice red line that goes along the outside of the dress.

0:42:540:42:58

Ooh!

0:42:580:42:59

As well as trying to stabilise her edges,

0:42:590:43:02

Julie is the only sewer attaching a separate collar.

0:43:020:43:05

Quite a different stretch to your garment.

0:43:050:43:08

Yeah, it's not a really heavy jersey.

0:43:080:43:10

-Will it have enough substance to take the weight of that collar?

-Yeah.

0:43:100:43:13

Julie's adapted a pattern for a vintage dressing gown...

0:43:130:43:17

She's got six layers where the collar joins the garment

0:43:210:43:25

with the facings.

0:43:250:43:26

So therefore, there's a lot of bulk around the neckline

0:43:260:43:29

which could stretch things out of shape.

0:43:290:43:32

It takes a bit of concentration cos it's stretching all the time,

0:43:320:43:36

so you've got to really concentrate.

0:43:360:43:38

90 minutes remaining.

0:43:390:43:41

So, I'm going to go for little cap sleeves,

0:43:410:43:44

cos I think it just jazzes it up a little bit.

0:43:440:43:46

I'm just setting in my sleeves.

0:43:460:43:47

There is an ease stitch on the top to give me a little bit of gather on the shoulders.

0:43:470:43:51

That might just give it a little bit of detail.

0:43:510:43:54

I'm just attaching the skirt to the top, the bodice.

0:43:560:44:01

Because it's so stretchy it could lose some of the shape on the waistband.

0:44:010:44:05

So I think I might use some bias binding inside,

0:44:050:44:09

just to make it a little bit more rigid, less stretchy.

0:44:090:44:12

(Where is it? Where is it?)

0:44:120:44:14

-Both Cerina...

-All looks spotty!

0:44:140:44:17

..and Chinelo are planning to gather their dresses at the waist.

0:44:170:44:20

Usually I wouldn't pin, I'd just go, but I'm having to pin so that

0:44:200:44:24

it doesn't stretch out of place and look twisted when she's got it on.

0:44:240:44:28

I'm sure May and Patrick are going to be looking for that.

0:44:280:44:31

I'm just trimming the seam line

0:44:310:44:34

that goes between the bodice and the skirt.

0:44:340:44:38

Heather's hoping to keep the waistline of her dress a little simpler.

0:44:380:44:42

Oh, my God!

0:44:420:44:43

I have just made a massive, massive mistake.

0:44:440:44:49

This is going to be a total disaster.

0:44:500:44:53

Heather has sewn her skirt on inside out

0:44:530:44:56

I'm basically stuffed now, that's it.

0:44:560:44:59

Heather did her waist seam on the outside.

0:44:590:45:03

-So the skirt was attached the wrong way round.

-Oh, I see.

0:45:030:45:05

She's used the stretched stitch, which is a really intense stitch,

0:45:050:45:09

and it takes forever to take out.

0:45:090:45:12

This is just a nightmare.

0:45:120:45:14

Why isn't this coming apart?

0:45:140:45:16

Exactly, why isn't this coming apart? Because it's triple stitch.

0:45:160:45:19

I don't know what to do.

0:45:190:45:21

Sewers, you've got one hour left.

0:45:230:45:26

Really?!

0:45:260:45:27

I'm just making a slight adjustment in the back.

0:45:280:45:31

I'm not quite happy with how it's falling.

0:45:310:45:33

She's got a bit of a hollow back, so what I'm doing is taking some pleats,

0:45:330:45:36

so that it'll just make it fit nicer.

0:45:360:45:38

-There's absolutely no way you're going to unpick that in time.

-No, there isn't.

0:45:380:45:42

-Just take a deep breath and don't panic, Captain Mainwaring.

-No, sir!

0:45:420:45:46

It's not sitting right at the back, look.

0:45:460:45:48

I need to make it like that.

0:45:480:45:52

-Yeah?

-Yes.

0:45:520:45:54

I need to take more in here. Just in the waist.

0:45:540:45:58

Oh, my God! It feels so nice and snug.

0:45:580:46:00

When I first started I took all the measurements I needed,

0:46:000:46:03

translated that onto my fabric so I knew it would fit perfectly.

0:46:030:46:07

Heather has made a decision about her waist seam.

0:46:070:46:11

I am chopping right. Right side,

0:46:110:46:15

Right bloody side! OK.

0:46:170:46:20

Now I'm going to redo it and let's see if

0:46:210:46:24

we can get this show on the road again. Disaster!

0:46:240:46:27

I got this fabric and I liked the little patterns that they had on it,

0:46:300:46:33

so I've trimmed that out and I'm just using it to decorate the shoulder.

0:46:330:46:36

The hardest thing were the collar, and I've got that in, so that is a relief.

0:46:360:46:40

All I've got to do now is decide what type of hem.

0:46:400:46:43

I'm just going to do a basic, overlock the hem and turn it up.

0:46:430:46:47

I have no idea how much time we have left.

0:46:470:46:51

-20 minutes...

-20 minutes?!

-..I think.

0:46:510:46:53

Jesus! Proper panic.

0:46:530:46:55

OK, I'm going to attach that all the way round, right now.

0:46:580:47:00

I'm not even going to bother to pin.

0:47:000:47:02

I just need to make an adjustment at the neckline.

0:47:040:47:07

Cos I've put binding around the neck, it's come quite loose.

0:47:070:47:10

I'm using a twin needle, the same as we used yesterday,

0:47:100:47:13

to get a double row of stitching on the bottom of the hem and the cuff.

0:47:130:47:18

I've got to get one more of the ribbons on.

0:47:180:47:20

That, in effect, makes it possible to wrap the dress.

0:47:200:47:23

I feel much happier with that now, much better now.

0:47:230:47:27

I just want to take it in a little bit more because

0:47:270:47:29

although it's a loose jersey fabric, I want it to be nice and fitted

0:47:290:47:33

and snug and, you know, look like it was made for her

0:47:330:47:35

and not somebody else.

0:47:350:47:37

I'm now attaching the bias binding round the curve of the neck,

0:47:450:47:48

so now I need to concentrate a bit.

0:47:480:47:51

-You've got five minutes everyone, five minutes.

-Ahhh!

0:47:510:47:54

I'm finished.

0:47:560:47:57

I'm just putting the bias binding on the sleeve just to finish the garment off.

0:48:010:48:05

-Are you all right, Heather, darling?

-I want to drown in a bucket of gin!

0:48:050:48:08

OK, I can organise that for you. I'll get you a snorkel.

0:48:080:48:12

I'm quite pleased with the way they're sitting,

0:48:120:48:15

considering I haven't used any bias binding or anything.

0:48:150:48:17

Just doing a little bit round the back now and it's actually finished.

0:48:210:48:25

One minute left, 60 seconds!

0:48:270:48:30

Ooh! Might be long enough!

0:48:300:48:31

David, I'm not one to panic, but I tell you - the time is now.

0:48:330:48:36

Go get naked behind the thing.

0:48:360:48:38

-Is that your usual....

-That's my normal chat-up line!

0:48:380:48:40

I'll just turn my back for a minute,

0:48:440:48:46

hurry up!

0:48:460:48:48

I've got no idea whether it's enough to impress the judges.

0:48:480:48:51

Come on, Heidi!

0:48:510:48:52

Just grateful that I've actually got something to put on my model, to be fair.

0:48:520:48:57

Shoulders, seam, seam.

0:48:570:49:00

OK.

0:49:070:49:08

OK, here we go, here we go!

0:49:080:49:10

All right, that's it! Time is absolutely up.

0:49:100:49:13

Have a lie down, definitely. God!

0:49:130:49:17

Unbelievable. That was too close.

0:49:190:49:22

Can I just wipe the mascara and sweat from under my eyes, please?

0:49:220:49:26

# Hold me close And hold me tight... #

0:49:320:49:37

Eight made-to-measure wrap dresses in just five hours.

0:49:370:49:40

But which ones will impress May and Patrick?

0:49:400:49:43

Well, the first thing we notice is the fit's good.

0:49:510:49:53

It's hugging the body, which is what we want from a stretch garment.

0:49:530:49:57

The cross is sitting in exactly the right place -

0:49:570:49:59

right in the centre of the sternum

0:49:590:50:01

You've bound the edges and you've not stretched them out of shape.

0:50:010:50:04

This seam is sitting very flat.

0:50:040:50:07

The bottom hem is very even and flat.

0:50:070:50:09

I think overall there's a nice balance, it moves very well.

0:50:090:50:13

-So I'd say it's a very, very good effort.

-Thank you!

0:50:130:50:16

Sadly you've stretched your edges with your binding.

0:50:210:50:24

The sleeves have worked well, the sash is nice.

0:50:240:50:27

It's just lost its shape a little bit, which is really unfortunate.

0:50:270:50:31

I feel we've got quite a lot of fabric on the top here.

0:50:350:50:38

Yes, it's been a bit of a tuck-in job, hasn't it?

0:50:380:50:40

We've got all this excess here.

0:50:400:50:43

We've got gathers on the back shoulder here,

0:50:430:50:46

and this one's flat.

0:50:460:50:47

It's not bad, but it's not brilliant.

0:50:470:50:49

The first thing I see is this lovely neckline that hugs the model.

0:50:560:51:00

It's really flat, it's really hugging the back neck really nicely,

0:51:000:51:04

it sits smooth across the top of the chest, and it looks well balanced.

0:51:040:51:09

And this faux wrap is sitting beautifully over her tummy.

0:51:090:51:12

-I think overall it's very good.

-Thank you.

0:51:120:51:15

It really needs to hug the body, and it's not.

0:51:220:51:24

You've attempted something quite difficult in putting this collar on.

0:51:240:51:27

It's quite a substantially different material,

0:51:270:51:30

and it just hasn't allowed that jersey to do what it does best,

0:51:300:51:34

which is hug the figure.

0:51:340:51:35

And it's just sitting too far off the body.

0:51:350:51:38

You could have made it in any fabric.

0:51:380:51:40

We're not seeing anything from the jersey in this at all.

0:51:400:51:43

I love the way it's sculpting the body.

0:51:530:51:55

I would like to say how relieved I am

0:51:550:51:57

that the nap seems to be going in the same direction.

0:51:570:52:01

I think it's incredibly impactful.

0:52:010:52:03

You've cut this pattern yourself, haven't you?

0:52:030:52:05

The fitting on the shoulder is exceptional.

0:52:050:52:08

I wouldn't have chosen bright emerald green on purple,

0:52:080:52:11

but anything less bold would not have done it justice.

0:52:110:52:14

And also, when I was watching you cut that curve,

0:52:140:52:17

I was thinking, would it work?

0:52:170:52:19

And it's brilliant. You've done a really good job.

0:52:190:52:21

-This is what we wanted from stretch fabric week.

-Thank you.

0:52:210:52:25

The first thing I notice is the neckline.

0:52:310:52:34

The right-hand side is sitting beautifully, and the left-hand side

0:52:340:52:38

is misbehaving itself, so a little stretching issue there, I think.

0:52:380:52:42

This is the narrowest point on your model here,

0:52:420:52:45

and your waistline is sitting a good two inches lower than that.

0:52:450:52:48

It's trying to find that true waist and using that as a guide.

0:52:480:52:52

This sleeve is inserted slightly better than the other one.

0:52:520:52:55

Can I just swivel you around?

0:52:550:52:56

We've just got a few pleats in this one.

0:52:560:52:58

The sleeves trouble me a bit.

0:52:580:53:00

They just feel slightly overpowering.

0:53:000:53:02

I think without them the dress becomes a completely different animal.

0:53:020:53:06

I really prefer the kimono-style sleeves,

0:53:060:53:09

but I do appreciate the comments, thank you.

0:53:090:53:12

Thank you. Yes - thank you, kimono style!

0:53:120:53:14

I'd like to mention how well the skirt drapes on this.

0:53:210:53:24

It's falling beautifully.

0:53:240:53:26

It isn't sitting quite flush on the back of the neck,

0:53:260:53:28

which is a shame, but actually,

0:53:280:53:31

the end of these darts, here, the centre,

0:53:310:53:34

it's actually beautifully balanced and really well positioned.

0:53:340:53:37

The front neckline is sitting well.

0:53:370:53:39

That front edge is fitting very nicely both ways,

0:53:390:53:43

and it's very cleanly and very evenly stitched.

0:53:430:53:45

Given that it was panic stations an hour ago,

0:53:450:53:48

-with the exception of that collar, I think it's very good.

-Thank you.

0:53:480:53:51

It's going to be so tough for the judges to make a decision on this one.

0:54:020:54:06

I just hope that I'm the one that's staying.

0:54:060:54:08

I needed a good day today, and it just turned out to be a bit of a car crash.

0:54:080:54:12

I just didn't have time to perfect it on the model.

0:54:120:54:15

So I don't think I've done enough.

0:54:150:54:17

I think... I'm very much in the firing line.

0:54:170:54:21

Let me ask you about who you're thinking should leave the sewing room.

0:54:240:54:30

For me, I think David has done enough.

0:54:300:54:32

I think his wrap dress was pretty well executed, so I think it's a decision between Jenni and Julie.

0:54:320:54:39

If we compare the dresses they made today, we've got this one,

0:54:390:54:42

and then we've got this one.

0:54:420:54:45

It wasn't great across the chest,

0:54:450:54:47

it was tight across the seat,

0:54:470:54:49

but overall it wasn't too badly sewn.

0:54:490:54:52

But it was simple. This was a much more ambitious project,

0:54:520:54:55

but it just didn't fulfil the brief.

0:54:550:54:58

-I mean, there are plusses and minuses in both of these.

-Yes.

0:54:580:55:00

-But it think, on the whole, we both agree...

-On who we think needs to go.

0:55:000:55:04

-..On who we should think has to go home.

-Yeah.

0:55:040:55:07

Let's start with the brilliant news,

0:55:160:55:19

which is these guys, their favourite garment of the week.

0:55:190:55:24

This week's garment of the week is...

0:55:240:55:28

this one! APPLAUSE

0:55:280:55:31

-Are you happy?

-Very happy! I'm very shocked, as well.

0:55:340:55:37

Are you? Incredibly well merited.

0:55:370:55:40

I think it stands out as a really fantastic piece of sewing.

0:55:400:55:43

And just what we were hoping for with this challenge this week.

0:55:430:55:46

-Thank you, thank you so much!

-It's amazing.

-Thank you.

0:55:460:55:50

In our dream world we would all just stay here together.

0:55:500:55:54

But that is not to be, somebody has to leave.

0:55:540:55:57

And the person that is leaving is...

0:55:570:55:59

It's Julie. I'm sorry.

0:56:100:56:14

-No, don't be.

-SHE LAUGHS

0:56:140:56:16

No, but you're so hilarious, I want you just to stay anyway.

0:56:160:56:19

-Pack it in!

-OK.

0:56:190:56:21

LAUGHTER

0:56:210:56:23

-Well done, Julie!

-APPLAUSE

0:56:230:56:26

Julie has tried to impress us the last couple of days.

0:56:290:56:34

She's really worked had at challenging herself.

0:56:340:56:38

She has done nothing but push herself to the absolute limit.

0:56:380:56:42

And she's brought a real joy to everything we've done.

0:56:420:56:45

We know she's a good sewer,

0:56:450:56:47

but all we can do is judge on what was put in front of us,

0:56:470:56:50

and, unfortunately, today was not her day.

0:56:500:56:52

I would have been upset if somebody else went instead of me.

0:56:520:56:56

Cos that wouldn't have been right.

0:56:560:56:58

I'm sorry, Julie.

0:56:580:56:59

The best part about being on the Sewing Bee has been meeting the other contestants.

0:56:590:57:03

We've had such a laugh. It's been great.

0:57:030:57:05

-MUFFLED:

-Pack it in!

0:57:050:57:07

I'm going to miss Julie.

0:57:070:57:08

She has made me laugh SO much, I can't tell you.

0:57:080:57:13

I won't even look in my sewing room for a couple of weeks

0:57:140:57:17

cos I'm all sewed out at the moment, I'll be honest!

0:57:170:57:20

I've put everything in today, and it paid off, and...

0:57:220:57:25

Yeah, pinch me. Punch me. Anything.

0:57:250:57:28

-HE LAUGHS

-I've been surprised every week so far

0:57:280:57:32

that my name hasn't been read out.

0:57:320:57:34

You never know - might happen again next week.

0:57:340:57:37

Who do you think is going to come through and win?

0:57:380:57:41

Chinelo.

0:57:410:57:43

Guess what?

0:57:430:57:44

-MAN ON PHONE: 'What?'

-I won garment of the week!

0:57:440:57:47

'Whoa!'

0:57:470:57:49

BOTH LAUGH

0:57:490:57:52

At the next Sewing Bee...

0:57:550:57:56

I don't like kids' clothes. I don't like kids.

0:57:560:58:00

..the smallest pattern challenge yet...

0:58:000:58:02

If you break the material, Claudia, I'm going to find it very difficult to forgive you.

0:58:020:58:06

..the fanciest alteration so far...

0:58:080:58:10

My daughter would say, "Chuck it in a bin, Dad. Not wearing that."

0:58:100:58:13

..and made-to-measure prom dresses...

0:58:130:58:15

Let's bring them in!

0:58:150:58:17

'..for someone completely unexpected.'

0:58:170:58:19

LAUGHTER

0:58:190:58:21

Hello... Oh, my God! I didn't recognise you!

0:58:210:58:25

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