Episode 5 The Great British Sewing Bee


Episode 5

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In this week's Great British Sewing Bee, there will be cutting,

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there will be stitching, there might even be gluing -

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which strictly isn't sewing, but there's

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a place in the quarterfinal up for grabs,

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so they can pretty much do whatever they like.

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-Last time...

-Come here, Fred.

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..the sewers made children's clothes...

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I don't like kids' clothes.

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..David's dungarees won him his first-ever challenge...

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That's a good, solid sew, which is exactly what we were looking for.

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For the second time, the judges awarded Lynda...

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-Cocktail - you and me?

-Why not?

-Why wouldn't we?

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..with garment of the week...

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..and sent Cerina home.

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So upset!

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-This week, the six remaining sewers...

-Phew!

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..face the most difficult fabrics yet.

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That's going to be a brute.

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They must tackle nylon...

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Easing this is not very easy.

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-..handle leather for the very first time...

-Ow!

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..and in a new twist...

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I'm not going to go right underneath!

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-..make velvet trousers...

-(WOLF WHISTLE)

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..for themselves.

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Control yourself, Heather.

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I slept awful last night.

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I dunno, maybe the nerves are getting the better of me nowadays

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cos we're getting so far in

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and a chance of the final's not such a distant hope.

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It's difficult to try and put yourself somewhere in the group

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because everybody has strengths and weaknesses and every week

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there's a surprise,

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so you just don't really know quite where you are with it.

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We're over halfway through the Sewing Bee.

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Now we need to find out whether they can handle the really tricky stuff.

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They need to impress us

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with their skills using more challenging types of fabric.

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Everyone is still in with a chance of winning.

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Hopefully it'll be me!

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Good morning, everybody. Are you ready for some more challenges?

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-Oh, yes.

-You say yes - you might say no in a minute.

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This week the judges want to see how you cope with very tricky fabrics.

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Challenge one is nylon.

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Oh, no!

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-No? Have any of you worked with nylon before?

-No!

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Patrick, what have they got to do?

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This week's pattern is for an anorak with rib on the cuff and waistband.

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We want the anorak to be shower-proof - with no pin holes in the wrong places.

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You have three hours.

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This one's tricky.

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Your time starts...now.

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That's a bit hard - an anorak?

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I hate anoraks - I hope I don't hate them

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at the end of the challenge, actually.

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Maybe I should love them. Then I'll do it well!

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I love anoraks - absolutely love 'em.

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Most of the sewers haven't sewn with nylon before,

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so figuring out how to handle it will be the first challenge.

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-I can't iron this, can I?

-I don't think you can iron any of them.

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It's nylon. It'll just melt.

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This is entirely new to me.

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It'll be fascinating to see how it turns out.

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That's serious nervous laughter, like "Ugh!"

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I never wear nylon. It's a bit sweaty.

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It's not something I would want to associate with, myself.

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Is nylon one of the trickiest materials to use?

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It slips and slides, It moves about.

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They have to think about how they handle it.

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We want it to be waterproof so they've got to be careful

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how they pin it, otherwise they'll end up with holes.

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I'm pinning in my seam allowance so they don't poke holes

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into the main fabric, cos it's supposed to be waterproof.

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I know that - from reading the pattern - the seams are going to be covered.

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Each sewer has their own method of avoiding pinpricks in their jackets.

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I put my jar on top to hold the pattern down.

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May said, "I don't want any holes in it that shouldn't be in it."

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I think she might have been referring to pins.

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Look at you!

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You clever rabbit.

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You're taping the pattern.

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I used to cut out fabric and I used to use sellotape the whole way round.

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-Did you?

-To stabilise the fabric.

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They used to make the Army waterproofs out of this when I was in the TA.

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-That's why you've gone full combat.

-Yeah!

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So that's the front.

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The bomber-jacket style anorak is fastened with an open-ended zip.

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The pattern is made up of two front and one back section,

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a collar, two sleeves,

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ribbing and waterproof tape.

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Once they've cut out their pieces, the next challenge is

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working out how they all slot together.

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"Pin sleeve to front of sleeve."

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Oh!

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The front and back sections of the anorak are joined together

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diagonally across the shoulder, creating raglan sleeves.

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If you're not used to putting something like this in -

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is it incredibly hard?

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Most sleeves would be a set-in sleeve.

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A shoulder is constructed and then a sleeve is set in.

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This - there's no shoulder insertion,

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so it's actually a very straightforward sew.

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Story goes that Lord Raglan, Wellington's aide-de-camp,

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was injured in the battle of Waterloo, had his arm chopped off, and his tailor developed this sleeve

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to make it easier for him to pull his jacket on and off with one arm.

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Feels nice.

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Well, I'm just trying to work out exactly what's going on here.

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So "Sleeve seam wrong sides together, stitch into place."

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The pattern demands that the raglan sleeve seams are exposed on the

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outside of the garment - something none of the sewers are used to.

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We're to sew wrong sides together, which is opposite to normal.

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You normally stitch right sides together.

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So when I sew these you won't have the

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seam on the inside. The seam will be on the outside

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which is why you use the tape to cover up the seams.

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Pull sides together.

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Once confident the sleeves' seams are in the right position,

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sewing can begin.

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So we're just sort of going for it, really.

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As if the pattern itself wasn't tricky enough,

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this week the sewers are using an unfamiliar machine

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with a walking foot, designed to grip slippery fabric.

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How do you get it going?

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-What?

-How do you make it stitch?

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Um, you need to put your foot down.

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No, as in...your needle, down.

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-Right.

-You should be able to go now.

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Ooh!

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I'm a little virgin as it comes to a little walking foot.

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It's very difficult, cos normally you'd only have one

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set of teeth guiding your fabric, whereas with this,

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you've got two.

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Just working with a new machine, it's a little bit slower

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but hopefully we can trot on a bit.

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Having raced ahead of the others, Lynda is now unpicking.

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I've sewn the right sides together instead of the wrong sides together.

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This is typical me, this is!

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Not thinking, just steaming ahead.

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Sewers, you have two hours left.

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"Place the tape onto the seam with the shiny side down,

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"overlapping both sides of the seam equally."

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To ensure the anorak is waterproof, the shoulder seams are sealed

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with waterproof tape.

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"Place the strip of tissue paper over the tape

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"and using the point of the iron, run it along the seam tape slowly to start the bonding process."

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The temperature of the iron needs to be just right.

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I'm worried about melting it, this fabric, because it's nylon.

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Too cool - and the tape won't stick.

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That's the first thing they're going to do, start picking at these heat-sealed seams.

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The point of this tape is it's not just

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there for the next 30 minutes.

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It needs to be on there for the whole life of this jacket, so it needs to be really well applied.

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This is scary, a bit. Is anyone else doing it yet?

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I'm just doing a little mock-up.

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The iron's at what temperature?

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-I don't know. It doesn't say.

-OK.

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-Are you allowed to say?

-No.

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That seems to be melting a little bit,

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so I might put it on a little bit warmer.

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I also would maybe think about

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whether you want the steam on or not.

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I've gone off the centre a little bit.

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The judges will spot that at 20 paces.

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I need to make sure that they're really well stuck, cos I know they're going to be picking at it.

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Some of your sealing is just coming away there.

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A little reseal of that.

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I found I had to hold the iron on it for a while.

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Like, look at that. I'm going to have to do that again.

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I haven't done a very good job of that.

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I'm not at all happy with it. But that's MY problem.

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Waterproof fabric may be tricky to sew with,

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but imagine a time when it didn't exist.

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It wasn't until the 19th century

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when a Scottish chemist named Mackintosh made an important

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discovery that wet-weather gear went into production.

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And not surprisingly, a lucrative business was born.

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In Georgian Britain, when it rained, most men donned a thick,

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lined woollen greatcoat, but this wardrobe staple would soon be

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replaced by something rather better at the job.

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In 1823, Charles Mackintosh patented a waterproofing process

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that he'd discovered when he mixed Indian rubber and the

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waste materials that came from - of all things - street gas lighting.

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What he was trying to do was create something for his father,

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who owned a dye works

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so he was using the waste products from the local gas factory.

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He wanted some ammonia, to create a dye.

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Instead, he found out that with another waste product, which is

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naphtha, he could melt India rubber.

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And then he thought, "If I can melt it, I can spread it."

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So what he did was then he started trying to perfect it.

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There's the cotton on top

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and then in between that, he put a layer of rubber, then cotton again.

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So it's like this sandwich

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and you squash it all together with a mangle.

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'The rubberised fabric went into production

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'and was soon in demand from the armed forces,

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'the new police force and even Arctic explorers.'

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What did this discovery do for the ordinary men

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and women of Georgian Britain?

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It didn't really work that well.

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Mackintosh found this amazing invention

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but for those of us who tried to wear it, it was a bit of a disaster.

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You'd go out in the Mackintosh coat, it would smell

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and also it's really inconvenient because if it got cold,

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it got really stiff, and if it got hot, it got really, really sticky.

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Mackintosh had to improve his product -

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so he went into business with another inventor, Thomas Hancock,

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and together they set out to perfect waterproof clothing.

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Hancock's family owned a coach company.

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Seeing a gap in the market for clothing that would protect

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coach drivers and passengers from the rain,

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he'd also started experimenting with Indian rubber.

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Hancock helped in developing a robust solution that was actually

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better than the one that Mackintosh had previously developed.

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It was more spreadable, had a higher rubber content,

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which made the fabric more waterproof

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and more impervious to the great British weather,

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so it was a totally waterproof fabric but more flexible, odourless

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and it was more amenable to the heat and to the cold and wintertime to.

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In 1824, Hancock and Mackintosh began producing coats with this new

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improved waterproof fabric.

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They had a brand-new business and Hancock fulfilled his ambition.

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What he set out to do in the first place was

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the protection of the coach drivers.

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Working with Charles Mackintosh made that a possibility,

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and both combined, made something really fantastic.

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Waterproof raincoats are still being produced in factories in

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Scotland today, using the techniques pioneered by Mackintosh and Hancock.

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This iconic piece of clothing has stood the test of time,

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paving the way for waterproof garments just like the anoraks

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made in our Sewing Bee.

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The sewers are halfway through. 90 minutes to go.

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So I'm now at this stage, so I need to stitch my armholes.

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Once I've done my sleeve seam,

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I will have the remnants of a coat by the end of this stitch but

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I need to move on to the ribbing, which I'm not looking forward to.

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-Attaching the ribbed waistband and cuffs evenly...

-Nice and stretchy.

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..into the stiff nylon requires preparation and precision.

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God, that's really stretchy. That's going to be a brute.

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So this is a bit tricky because you've got stretchy ribbing

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which is very, very movey, and then this is very, very structured.

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I've marked my centre

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back with the back piece

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and I'm matching them up, so I'm pinning them together.

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I'm then going to stretch this

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to the width of the fabric underneath.

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Once again we've arrived at a tricky and crucial moment.

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What are you doing?

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-I'm...

-He's putting his cuff in.

-OK.

-What he said!

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-Is it difficult?

-It's a pain in the bum.

-It's fiddly.

-Why?

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That starts off that size, the cuff that it's going into is that size,

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you've got to get that into that.

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-This doesn't look right. Is this right?

-This is right.

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Oh, well done!

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'If the ribbing isn't stretched evenly onto the nylon,

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'the seams will pucker.'

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This is going to be a little bit tricky.

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Oh, gosh, this is kind of off...

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Oh, gosh.

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I really, really want to do this...get this right.

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Sewers, you have one hour left. One hour.

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I think I need to get my skates on.

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Pin collars...

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Heather has moved on to the jacket collar.

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Because it's on a curve, it's a little bit tricky

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to ease this fabric in.

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If the collar slips against neck-hole as they sew...

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Easing this is not very easy!

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..it could pucker around the seam.

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SHE SIGHS

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My collar doesn't fit.

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I've tried all ways to get it to fit,

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so I'm going to cut a bigger one.

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I've got one little catch there.

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That's been caused, because the fabric doesn't stretch that much,

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it's a little bit difficult to get the curve equal all the way through.

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If that's the only thing that's wrong, I shall be lucky.

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-How have you found putting this collar on?

-Awful.

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I'm undoing it again. It looked a bit shabby.

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-You don't have much time left.

-I know.

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-I'm going to do it, though.

-All right, I'll leave you to do it.

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I hope nobody's going to try this out in the rain!

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Everyone, you have half an hour left.

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Are you serious?

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They're all being a bit slow this morning.

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They ought to be putting their zips in now.

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And they should be getting on to that all-important topstitching.

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I'm just trying to topstitch my zip at the moment.

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The final component of the anorak is the waterproof zip,

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which should be neatly topstitched along the front opening...

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So I'm going all the way up the zip, all the way around the top of the collar, to come back down.

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..to give the anoraks a sharp finish.

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I've just got to topstitch my collar now.

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MACHINE JAMS Uh, are you serious?

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Sewers, you have five minutes left.

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Five minutes to put your anoraks on your mannequins.

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Ahh, come on. I think I've knackered it.

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I can't find my foot. I was doing so well!

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When you keep messing up, you've got to work at the speed of light.

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A-ha-ha! I found it on the floor.

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Go!

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I've got topstitching left to do, and I don't think I'll have time to do it.

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-Sewers, you have 60 seconds left.

-What?!

-That is one minute.

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I've had it.

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HE SIGHS Oh, that's terrible.

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I've finished my coat!

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OK, that's time.

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Why did they put it so far away?!

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-No topstitching.

-No, I haven't got any topstitching, either.

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Come on, Army boy.

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This is my dream come true, David.

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Six anoraks in just three hours,

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but whose will impress Patrick and May?

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Jenni, please bring Mr Yellow Arms.

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Topstitching, it's not absolutely straight.

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It's not perfect, but it's doing its job.

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-Good cuffs, no pleats or puckers.

-Phew!

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Difficult to bond two completely different fabrics with one tape,

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because obviously you can't apply more heat to one side than the other.

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-The fact that you've got that very well bonded is great credit to you.

-Thank you.

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Your topstitching is all on.

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Needs to be a little bit closer to the edge.

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To your credit, it's very even. It's just a little bit too far away.

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And, in the main, your tape is secure.

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I can see a tiny couple of places

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where it's just trying to come off the edge, but, on the whole, it's on.

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No topstitching.

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I mean, it's plainly clear to everyone now, I hope,

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why we've asked you to topstitch.

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You can't press it into shape, you have to stitch it into shape.

0:18:230:18:26

We've got some puckering where you've joined the collar to the jacket,

0:18:260:18:29

-which is a shame.

-But... Oh, no, spoke too soon.

0:18:290:18:33

Tape just coming away in a couple of...

0:18:330:18:36

Well, it's certainly coming away there.

0:18:360:18:38

Unfortunately, it's clear to everyone you've run out of time

0:18:430:18:46

and we haven't got a finished garment.

0:18:460:18:48

The collar's not attached,

0:18:480:18:50

and we can see right here where the clock stopped!

0:18:500:18:53

-And from the back...

-I know.

-..it's squint.

-I know.

0:18:530:18:57

Sorry.

0:18:570:19:00

The first thing to notice is you haven't got to the topstitching,

0:19:040:19:07

and it's meant that the collar looks bumpy,

0:19:070:19:09

-and this front edge along the zip, bumpy.

-I know, I ran out of time.

0:19:090:19:13

It just leaves it all looking a little bit puffy and bulgy.

0:19:130:19:17

But, looking at your sleeve, we have no pleats or puckers.

0:19:170:19:22

It looks really good, and all this topstitching,

0:19:280:19:31

we can see the difference in how secure all of the edges are.

0:19:310:19:36

Really even, and well executed.

0:19:360:19:38

The seam tape... really well secured.

0:19:380:19:41

This is a jacket I would be very happy to wear myself.

0:19:410:19:44

I think this is really very good.

0:19:440:19:46

SHE GASPS

0:19:460:19:47

THEY LAUGH

0:19:470:19:49

Pick yourself up off the floor!

0:19:490:19:51

'So what do Patrick and May really think?'

0:19:540:19:57

Number six is Lynda today. Not one of your most comfortable sews.

0:19:580:20:03

In fifth place, Heather. Didn't get round to the topstitching,

0:20:030:20:08

and slightly uneven in a couple of places.

0:20:080:20:11

'Chinelo is fourth, and David is third.'

0:20:110:20:15

Second is Jenni. Really marginal whether it was second or first.

0:20:150:20:19

Which means, in first place, Tamara!

0:20:190:20:22

APPLAUSE

0:20:220:20:24

Finally!

0:20:240:20:26

That is a really professional-looking

0:20:260:20:29

piece of sewing. Hard to find any fault in it

0:20:290:20:31

All of you go and have a cup of tea,

0:20:310:20:33

and, when you come back, we'll give you the next challenge

0:20:330:20:36

which is really quite terrifying.

0:20:360:20:38

My mum told me, "Keep your cool, stay calm, read the pattern,"

0:20:430:20:48

and that's exactly what I did.

0:20:480:20:50

Pipped to the post! I was so gutted.

0:20:500:20:52

'But, that said, dead proud of myself. Second position, that's awesome.'

0:20:520:20:57

I don't like coming last at all, obviously,

0:20:570:20:59

and it's making me worry about the next challenge.

0:20:590:21:03

Nylon jackets, incredibly challenging.

0:21:040:21:07

Now, our judges want our sewers to transform,

0:21:070:21:10

to alter a high-street garment, using totally different fabric,

0:21:100:21:14

but one that's just as difficult to handle.

0:21:140:21:18

Patrick, what would you like them to have a fiddle with?

0:21:180:21:23

This week...we'd like to give you this high-street top,

0:21:230:21:28

and we'd like you to alter it with yet another challenging fabric.

0:21:280:21:33

Leather.

0:21:360:21:37

Do whatever you like with the leather.

0:21:370:21:40

You can use haberdashery.

0:21:400:21:42

Change that top into something really exciting.

0:21:420:21:46

You have an hour and a half. Your time starts now.

0:21:460:21:50

You two, off you go. Go, go. Bye-bye.

0:21:500:21:52

-Got to be purple.

-That's nice, I like that combination.

-OK.

0:21:540:21:58

Smells good.

0:21:580:22:01

I've gone for this black suede leather.

0:22:010:22:03

The whole monochrome thing is in, isn't it?

0:22:030:22:05

I love a bit of leather! Yes, I can see me getting into leather.

0:22:050:22:10

I've never worked with leather but, I tell you what, it's lovely.

0:22:100:22:13

It cuts really easily.

0:22:130:22:15

It's a skin and I presume you get one chance to pierce it, and that's it.

0:22:150:22:19

So, for me, I think it's about watching what I do with my needle.

0:22:190:22:22

This challenge is interesting because, for the first time,

0:22:220:22:25

we're giving them a material that is not a traditional textile.

0:22:250:22:28

It's different in the way that it's handled,

0:22:280:22:31

it cuts in a different way, you have to sew it in a different way.

0:22:310:22:34

A lot of the leather is so fine that you can sculpture it,

0:22:340:22:37

you can change the shape of it,

0:22:370:22:38

but we don't want something just thrown at it.

0:22:380:22:41

"Oh, yes, I've applied a little shape here."

0:22:410:22:44

We want something that looks good with that garment.

0:22:440:22:47

The button-back top is made from a heavy double-knit jersey,

0:22:470:22:51

an ideal backing for the leather,

0:22:510:22:53

as it's of a similar weight and stretch.

0:22:530:22:56

This challenge is right up my street, I love doing things like this.

0:22:560:23:00

I am just making a little frill to go right around the front of my top.

0:23:000:23:05

So far, so good!

0:23:050:23:06

Tell me exactly what you're doing,

0:23:060:23:09

and for why.

0:23:090:23:10

I've switched so the back is now the front.

0:23:100:23:13

I think I'm going to apply this around the neck.

0:23:130:23:17

-What I think I'm going to do is...

-Oh, my God! Are you using that?

0:23:170:23:20

-Sorry to swear...

-Yes. I'm going to cut shapes out of this,

0:23:200:23:22

and have this underneath so this shows through.

0:23:220:23:25

What are you doing now?!

0:23:250:23:27

There's no warning with you, Tamara, you're just cutting into it!

0:23:270:23:31

I'm actually going to do a backless leather top.

0:23:320:23:35

So it will be very...demure at the front

0:23:350:23:38

but the wow factor will be in the back, cos I know Patrick likes that.

0:23:380:23:40

Cut off the neck to make it into a sweetheart neckline.

0:23:400:23:45

I've cut out the side panel, and I've made it out of leather instead.

0:23:450:23:49

I'm going to do almost a sort of bustier front.

0:23:490:23:53

Well, at least this is what I've sort of got in my mind, because...

0:23:530:23:56

I'm not doing a very good job of freehand with it here.

0:23:560:23:59

I'm going to make a wrap front with a plunging neckline.

0:23:590:24:06

Leather marks easily when pinned,

0:24:060:24:08

so Patrick and May have given the sewers a sticky tape

0:24:080:24:10

to position it onto the supporting fabric.

0:24:100:24:13

Instead of using your pins, you chuck it on here.

0:24:130:24:16

You "chuck it on"?

0:24:160:24:18

Oh... Oh! I don't know what you've just done!

0:24:180:24:21

-HE LAUGHS

-I don't know what you've just done!

0:24:210:24:23

Claudia, go away!

0:24:230:24:24

-OK, focus on this bit for a minute.

-Let's do it together.

-Unfurl it.

0:24:240:24:29

I think...

0:24:290:24:31

I'm no expert, but I think maybe you cut tiny bits.

0:24:310:24:34

I'll leave you. Good luck with the tape.

0:24:340:24:36

-Maybe just put it on the machine. It's an idea.

-Yeah!

0:24:360:24:40

'One hour remaining.'

0:24:400:24:42

I was worried about leather, but now, having had a look at it,

0:24:420:24:46

it shouldn't be that difficult.

0:24:460:24:48

Whoa! There she blows!

0:24:480:24:52

To help the sewers stitch through the leather,

0:24:520:24:54

all the machines have been fitted with needles

0:24:540:24:57

with a blade-like point designed to pierce through tough fabrics.

0:24:570:25:02

I can't believe how lovely this is to sew.

0:25:020:25:04

I would love a top out of leather.

0:25:040:25:07

I might make myself one. Who knows?

0:25:070:25:10

I'm appliqueing this patch of leather onto our top

0:25:100:25:14

with a relatively wide zigzag, just to get a nice firm edge

0:25:140:25:20

to my leather, because the leather's stretchy and the garment's stretchy.

0:25:200:25:24

I think this is called reverse applique,

0:25:240:25:27

but it's where you cut away fabric to show a fabric underneath.

0:25:270:25:32

I haven't done this since I was probably about...12 years old,

0:25:320:25:36

and I certainly haven't ever done it with leather.

0:25:360:25:39

Oh! A bit of leather applique.

0:25:390:25:43

I'm just going to cut out this piece now.

0:25:430:25:46

That whole section? So you're keeping the sort of yoke,

0:25:460:25:49

if you like, but somebody will wear it and they'll be bare?

0:25:490:25:52

This is a "date night" top.

0:25:520:25:54

Oh, it's a "date night" top. I like "date night" tops.

0:25:540:25:56

I know! You can't get enough of it.

0:25:560:25:58

Oh, I can't! I could do this all day.

0:25:580:26:00

I've cut the back to make it tight and I've cut the top off it

0:26:020:26:07

so I'm just sewing it on now, to the sides.

0:26:070:26:10

Neither of my daughters would wear this

0:26:120:26:14

but would have when I was young.

0:26:140:26:16

I have names, by the way, for all my clothes,

0:26:160:26:19

like my egg top because it's bright yellow and I wore it one day

0:26:190:26:23

down to my daughter's and I had white trousers on.

0:26:230:26:25

She opened the door and I said, "I feel like an egg."

0:26:250:26:28

I hope this is going to be my success story top.

0:26:280:26:31

Look at you! This is bold! Can I just show the cameras?

0:26:330:26:37

That's the front. I'm a normal human being, just wearing a white top.

0:26:370:26:40

Thanks very much.

0:26:400:26:42

-Ow!

-Ow!

0:26:420:26:44

I've got a lilac leather back with...

0:26:440:26:46

Shut up! Shut up!

0:26:460:26:50

It's a Rouleaux loop.

0:26:500:26:52

Everyone, you have 30 minutes.

0:26:530:26:55

What's going on?

0:27:000:27:01

It's not even holding it together. It's just a big mess.

0:27:030:27:06

It's very small.

0:27:080:27:09

I need to find a way to hide it and stop it from coming up.

0:27:090:27:12

Actually, maybe if I did it right on the edge,

0:27:120:27:15

that would hold it in place.

0:27:150:27:16

What about that thing, the overlord... The overlocker?

0:27:160:27:19

The overlord!

0:27:190:27:21

-Honestly!

-No?

-No, no overlord!

0:27:220:27:25

No overlord, OK.

0:27:250:27:27

I wanted the focus to be on the shoulders and neckline,

0:27:270:27:30

so I'm just embellishing that as I go.

0:27:300:27:33

It's constantly evolving.

0:27:330:27:35

That technique...

0:27:430:27:45

I don't have a name

0:27:450:27:48

but it did release some tension.

0:27:480:27:51

You don't have the hem level, so you can hack away at it

0:27:510:27:55

and make big splodgy holes.

0:27:550:27:57

It probably looks awful.

0:27:580:28:01

Yeah, it does look awful, but I like it.

0:28:010:28:03

Everyone's doing a lot more drastic than I have, I think.

0:28:040:28:07

I'm making a corsage.

0:28:070:28:08

Lynda's making a corsage.

0:28:080:28:10

I've seen my granddaughter's got one on her hair band or something

0:28:120:28:15

and I'm trying to recreate it but I'm not sure how it goes.

0:28:150:28:19

Getting the needle through the leather is really, really difficult.

0:28:210:28:24

It's very, very thick.

0:28:240:28:26

I don't know how I can join it all together.

0:28:260:28:28

Maybe if I do one at a time. That sorts that out.

0:28:310:28:35

I think I might have chipped a tooth.

0:28:360:28:39

Everyone, you have ten minutes left. That is ten minutes.

0:28:400:28:44

I'm just deciding what to do with the neck edge, at the moment.

0:28:450:28:49

I think I might tuck it in and tack it in underneath.

0:28:490:28:52

Toying at whether to make a kind of necklace which sits on,

0:28:520:28:55

with leather bits falling off it.

0:28:550:28:57

Little buttons at the back, just to take it in.

0:28:570:29:00

I'm just going put two buttons at the bottom as well.

0:29:000:29:03

They said radically change and alter your top.

0:29:100:29:13

I think they'll hate it.

0:29:130:29:15

Ooh! Mind that!

0:29:170:29:19

Green is for leaves, to go with my flower.

0:29:220:29:24

Don't do this at home! End up at the dentist.

0:29:270:29:29

Did you just use tape or did you use the machine?

0:29:310:29:34

I did use the machine, although you can see half the tape.

0:29:340:29:37

Oh, David!

0:29:370:29:38

It's sticky tape. Just roll it over and no-one will notice.

0:29:380:29:41

-Are those leather leaves?

-Yes.

0:29:430:29:45

Come on! Come on!

0:29:450:29:47

Trim, trim, trim, trim.

0:29:560:29:58

Guys, your time's up!

0:30:000:30:02

Your tops have to be on your mannequins.

0:30:020:30:04

Bring them forward. We'll jumble them around.

0:30:040:30:07

# Oops! My heart went oops

0:30:070:30:09

# The moment that we met

0:30:090:30:11

# My heart went oops

0:30:110:30:13

# I never will forget

0:30:130:30:15

Patrick and May have no idea whose alteration is whose.

0:30:150:30:19

Well, there's certainly been an awful lot of work gone on

0:30:190:30:22

in the hour and a half since we left the room.

0:30:220:30:25

And I'm surprised at the range of things that have been done.

0:30:250:30:28

There's a lot of different techniques here.

0:30:280:30:30

Without that, I'd say it was a much better-looking garment.

0:30:350:30:38

I don't understand why we've got grosgrain and lace

0:30:380:30:42

and floral buttons.

0:30:420:30:43

We've obviously had a bit of trouble with the seaming down here.

0:30:490:30:52

A nice idea. The a combination of the two leathers isn't bad

0:30:520:30:55

but it seems to me a little bit confused in its execution.

0:30:550:30:59

I just feel this looks a little bit messy.

0:30:590:31:01

That's a clever bit of cutting to make that sit and flute like that.

0:31:060:31:10

Yeah. And the lace is quite nicely and neatly attached

0:31:100:31:14

all the way round.

0:31:140:31:15

I think I'd have liked to have seen all of this just cut out

0:31:200:31:23

and disappeared and end up with a nice V-neck.

0:31:230:31:27

Some really nice panelling here.

0:31:320:31:34

Actually, a nice use of the fact that leather can be left

0:31:340:31:38

as a raw edge.

0:31:380:31:40

A very nice, smooth line both over the bust

0:31:440:31:48

and down through this line.

0:31:480:31:50

And also, a good use of some leather circles which have been

0:31:500:31:53

sewn together to make this lovely flower.

0:31:530:31:57

To give the sewers a clear indication of their success

0:31:570:32:00

with handling leather,

0:32:000:32:01

Patrick and May put the mannequins in order of preference.

0:32:010:32:05

-OK.

-So, then, can we invite the creator of blue Hiawatha, please?

0:32:050:32:09

David!

0:32:110:32:13

Be confident in what you've created and look at it and think,

0:32:130:32:16

"Is that a nice piece of clothing?" If it is, don't think,

0:32:160:32:19

"I've got five minutes left. I need to do more."

0:32:190:32:22

Please could the owner of number five come up?

0:32:230:32:26

It's Heather!

0:32:260:32:27

The little bit of suede you put in the front was nicely executed

0:32:270:32:31

and then the rest of it just went a bit mad.

0:32:310:32:33

It did. It went completely mad.

0:32:330:32:35

'Tamara is fourth and Jenni is third.'

0:32:370:32:40

So here are your top two.

0:32:400:32:41

And there they both are.

0:32:410:32:43

Could the creator of number two come and get her?

0:32:450:32:47

ALL: Ah!

0:32:490:32:51

Well done on a great garment.

0:32:520:32:54

I like the way in which you

0:32:540:32:55

cut the curve on the suede.

0:32:550:32:57

It works very, very well.

0:32:570:32:59

-Thank you.

-And the winner is Lynda!

0:32:590:33:02

Well done.

0:33:050:33:07

Surprise.

0:33:070:33:08

You've done a fantastic job here.

0:33:080:33:10

It shows just what you can do

0:33:100:33:12

with the right material in the right place. It's just a really

0:33:120:33:15

well-executed sew.

0:33:150:33:17

You did brilliantly. Nylon and leather.

0:33:170:33:19

You all deserve awards. Go home. Have some doughnuts.

0:33:190:33:23

We'll see you tomorrow for a big challenge with a tricky fabric.

0:33:230:33:28

You know, I never do very well in these challenges,

0:33:290:33:32

so to come first was absolutely brilliant.

0:33:320:33:35

Second again. I need to climb up soon but I was very happy.

0:33:350:33:39

Today I came fifth and fifth. Tomorrow I'm going to really panic,

0:33:410:33:46

pray, and hopefully sew really well.

0:33:460:33:49

One more challenge and one more day, at the end of which Patrick

0:33:550:33:58

and May must decide who will be going forward to the quarterfinal.

0:33:580:34:02

How did they do yesterday?

0:34:020:34:04

Tamara finally resisted the urge to go off-pattern

0:34:040:34:07

and ended up sewing a really fantastically professional-looking garment.

0:34:070:34:12

Lynda had a totally mismatched day.

0:34:120:34:14

She lost the anorak challenge and then she came top.

0:34:140:34:17

Lynda went from zero to hero in just those two challenges.

0:34:170:34:21

What yesterday showed us is that it's very difficult to pick

0:34:210:34:24

a frontrunner, and it's very difficult to pick

0:34:240:34:26

who might be in trouble.

0:34:260:34:27

Nobody is secure.

0:34:270:34:29

It hinges on how well they do with this challenge.

0:34:290:34:31

After you, Lynda, darling.

0:34:310:34:33

As usual, the sewers have had a chance to practise this challenge

0:34:330:34:36

at home, but for the first time in the sewing room,

0:34:360:34:38

they'll be making a made-to-measure garment for themselves.

0:34:380:34:41

So to ensure the perfect fit, they'll be pairing up.

0:34:410:34:43

-Good morning, everybody.

-ALL: Morning.

0:34:450:34:47

So this week is all about tricky fabrics.

0:34:470:34:50

Today the judges would like to see how you cope with velvet.

0:34:500:34:53

They'd like you to make a pair of velvet trousers.

0:34:540:34:57

They suggest you all choose a fit buddy and you help each other

0:34:570:35:01

with measuring, etc.

0:35:010:35:03

You have six and a half hours, to make a pair...

0:35:030:35:06

Can't wait to see yours, David!

0:35:060:35:08

..of velvet trousers. Your time starts now!

0:35:080:35:12

Velvet trousers. Who wears velvet trousers?

0:35:160:35:19

I haven't made velvet trousers. I've made other things in velvet

0:35:200:35:23

and I love it but it's a beast to sew.

0:35:230:35:26

Velvet is most commonly made from cotton, woven together

0:35:260:35:29

in two layers. This is then sliced apart, revealing a tightly

0:35:290:35:33

packed cut thread, or pile, which sits proud

0:35:330:35:36

on the surface of the fabric.

0:35:360:35:38

I just always call it a hairy fabric.

0:35:380:35:40

The pile can be brushed in either direction.

0:35:420:35:44

This is called the nap.

0:35:440:35:46

The sewers need to pin their patterns on to the velvet,

0:35:460:35:49

so that the nap brushes in the same direction, or the trousers will end up looking patchy.

0:35:490:35:53

If you brush it one way, it looks dark. If you brush it

0:35:540:35:58

the other way it's all shiny...ish.

0:35:580:36:01

I'm going to choose to go down the fabric,

0:36:010:36:05

simply because I love that wonderful sheen.

0:36:050:36:09

Heather's making a classic pair of slim-fitting trousers,

0:36:100:36:13

out of a firm cotton velvet, which will be half lined on the inside.

0:36:130:36:17

I'm afraid I'm abusing the judges' furniture. I hope they don't mind.

0:36:180:36:22

I'll be off this before they get in here anyway, I hope.

0:36:220:36:26

I have never worked with velvet before,

0:36:260:36:29

so I'm a little bit nervous about the challenge

0:36:290:36:32

but I love velvet.

0:36:320:36:34

I would kill for a velvet suit, so I'm looking forward to making them.

0:36:340:36:38

But it's going to be a tricky one!

0:36:380:36:40

Jenni is making high-waisted trousers, with a zip fly,

0:36:410:36:45

tapered at the ankle with turn-ups

0:36:450:36:47

out of a fluid synthetic silk velvet.

0:36:470:36:49

Your velvet, to me...

0:36:510:36:52

I'm just going to be honest

0:36:520:36:54

with you. It feels really "floopy".

0:36:540:36:55

Are you all right with that?

0:36:550:36:57

Erm...yeah. Because it's a tapered trouser, I'm not too worried

0:36:570:37:00

-about the "floopiness".

-Are you worried about time?

0:37:000:37:03

I have practised with velvet at home and I didn't complete in time.

0:37:030:37:06

Oh, my God. I'm getting out of your way. Bye, snazzy girl.

0:37:060:37:09

I've actually got boots on today

0:37:110:37:13

because my legs are very fat at the top and really thin at the bottom.

0:37:130:37:18

So I've worn the boots to try and even out the shape of my legs.

0:37:180:37:21

I don't know whether that's cheating or just being crafty.

0:37:210:37:24

I don't know.

0:37:240:37:26

Lynda's making a classic straight-legged trouser

0:37:260:37:28

with a zip fly and side pockets.

0:37:280:37:31

Once, I've used velvet in the past.

0:37:310:37:33

I think it was 30 something years ago.

0:37:330:37:36

And I made a lovely velvet dress with a white collar,

0:37:360:37:38

for my daughter, Sarah. And that's the only time I've ever used velvet.

0:37:380:37:44

Where's my tape measure?

0:37:440:37:46

I'm making a gentleman's pair of trousers from this pattern.

0:37:460:37:51

Very Saturday Night Fever.

0:37:510:37:53

David's chino-style trousers will have a front fly and side pockets.

0:37:540:37:58

-Hello.

-You all right, mate? How are you doing?

0:37:580:38:01

-I'm all right. Who's your fit buddy?

-I'm going to go with Tamara.

0:38:010:38:04

Love it. And also, you'll be used to buddying up.

0:38:040:38:07

# Nee-naw, nee-naw. #

0:38:070:38:09

"Come on. I've got your back!"

0:38:090:38:10

-It's all about the buddy system.

-That's what we're doing now.

0:38:100:38:13

-Get down!

-I'm not getting down. I've got business to do.

0:38:130:38:16

Fine! I'm just in my own little police velvet world.

0:38:160:38:20

Wouldn't it be marvellous if we just gave everyone

0:38:200:38:22

-a velvet uniform to wear?

-Why wouldn't you?

0:38:220:38:25

It would stop crime overnight. People would be too busy laughing.

0:38:250:38:28

I've cut my trousers and I'm now tacking them together

0:38:300:38:33

before I make them up.

0:38:330:38:35

Sewing velvet cannot be rushed.

0:38:370:38:39

To prevent the seams from puckering, the two leg pieces should be

0:38:390:38:42

secured together before going under the machine.

0:38:420:38:45

Velvet has the tendency to creep.

0:38:460:38:48

Because the piles are sitting next to each other, they can move,

0:38:480:38:51

so really careful handling.

0:38:510:38:54

Where could people really go wrong?

0:38:540:38:56

Any surface stitching could look awful. Also, seams, if they move,

0:38:560:39:01

you could have one piece of fabric

0:39:010:39:03

puckering on another piece of fabric. Bulk!

0:39:030:39:06

Velvet is bulky, so there are all sorts of things to think about.

0:39:060:39:10

The rule of thumb is, if you think you've got enough pins in,

0:39:100:39:13

double it. Because it's a bit of a walking fabric.

0:39:130:39:16

What I want to do is get it right first time

0:39:160:39:19

and not have to chase this.

0:39:190:39:21

Here we go.

0:39:220:39:24

I'm going to sew this together.

0:39:300:39:31

Just sewn on like that.

0:39:310:39:32

There's your pocket, then.

0:39:320:39:34

I have practised this challenge. I made it in an awful velvet.

0:39:400:39:43

I think it was furniture velvet, actually.

0:39:430:39:46

And it was just awful.

0:39:460:39:47

Chinelo's skinny-legged trousers are topped with an asymmetric

0:39:470:39:51

peplum ruffle, which is lined in a contrast fabric.

0:39:510:39:55

Have you worked with velvet before?

0:39:550:39:57

A hundred million thousand times.

0:39:570:39:58

A hundred million thousand? That's a lot.

0:39:580:40:01

It's one of my favourite fabrics.

0:40:010:40:02

Why do you love it so much? Cos it's difficult to sew with.

0:40:020:40:05

I just think it looks luxurious.

0:40:050:40:07

I feel like I could drape myself somewhere when I wear velvet.

0:40:070:40:11

-I love you, Chinelo-chops.

-On a piano or something...

0:40:110:40:13

A piano! We need a piano for judging.

0:40:130:40:16

..whilst my husband plays it, oiled up.

0:40:160:40:18

We've just turned a corner

0:40:180:40:20

but don't think that that image isn't staying with me.

0:40:200:40:23

I'm just doing my side seams so I can do my first fitting.

0:40:280:40:31

Tamara's Capris pants are made from

0:40:330:40:35

a lightweight cotton velvet.

0:40:350:40:37

She's lining the inside of the waistband

0:40:370:40:39

and a back pocket with a contrast print.

0:40:390:40:42

Are you still riding high on anorak?

0:40:420:40:44

Of course not! That doesn't mean anything.

0:40:440:40:47

You're only as good as your last garment.

0:40:470:40:50

Gosh! You suddenly became May.

0:40:500:40:51

You, happily, have got police boy, on crutches, to be your fit buddy.

0:40:510:40:55

-Aren't I lucky?

-Is he useful?

0:40:550:40:57

We're going to have our first fitting very shortly.

0:40:570:41:00

Great. I'll get my trousers off.

0:41:000:41:03

Go on, Dave, get them off.

0:41:030:41:05

-WOLF WHISTLES

-Control yourself, Heather!

0:41:050:41:07

-(Jen, I'm just going to go in.)

-OK.

0:41:120:41:14

To achieve a good fit, the sewers have paired up.

0:41:140:41:17

Jenni is Heather's fit buddy.

0:41:170:41:19

I should have had the Bridget Joneses on.

0:41:210:41:23

I wasn't going to say that.

0:41:250:41:27

How important is it to have a fit buddy?

0:41:270:41:29

It's virtually impossible to do a good fit on yourself.

0:41:290:41:33

What are you aiming for?

0:41:330:41:34

-The back of the calf, here?

-Just above the ankle, actually.

0:41:340:41:37

As soon as you bend down to tack a hem,

0:41:370:41:40

you know, the trousers ride up.

0:41:400:41:42

As soon as you turn round to look at the back,

0:41:420:41:44

you're twisting the whole trouser out of shape and out of balance.

0:41:440:41:48

You're trying to put something around

0:41:480:41:50

all sorts of curves in three dimensions.

0:41:500:41:52

It's almost impossible to get a really good fit

0:41:520:41:56

without standing straight up and down

0:41:560:41:58

while the clothes are being fitted on you.

0:41:580:41:59

Chinelo is my buddy. When I was slim,

0:41:590:42:02

I was not the same shape as Chinelo but we've both got big bums.

0:42:020:42:08

-Not big! Round.

-Round bums.

-Yes.

-Yes.

0:42:080:42:11

So I think we'll be good to fit on each other.

0:42:110:42:14

-Just be careful with the pins.

-Yes, I will.

0:42:160:42:19

-What I'm doing, David, is making sure that your centre seam...

-Yeah.

0:42:190:42:22

..is in the centre of your darts.

0:42:220:42:25

You're fantastic.

0:42:250:42:26

I'm not going to go right underneath.

0:42:260:42:28

What do you mean? Why not?

0:42:280:42:29

If you don't mind! There's friends and there's friends.

0:42:290:42:33

Feels like it could go in.

0:42:350:42:37

-Yeah, it can, a little bit.

-Ooh, careful.

0:42:370:42:40

My tights are interfering with the velvet.

0:42:400:42:43

-Yeah.

-So I've taken my...

-..knickers off.

0:42:430:42:47

-I've taken my tights off.

-OK.

0:42:470:42:49

But you will see my bottom.

0:42:490:42:51

If you take that in there, look...

0:42:510:42:53

-You'll have to go from the top seam, obviously.

-Yeah.

-Yeah.

-OK.

0:42:540:42:58

That's where it needs to sit...

0:42:580:43:00

-OK.

-Brilliant. Thank you, darling.

0:43:000:43:02

Hopefully we're nearly there. Hopefully.

0:43:030:43:05

Sewers, you're halfway through.

0:43:090:43:11

This zip is going to be in the front of my trousers

0:43:130:43:15

so when my trousers are zipped up, it just looks like a seam.

0:43:150:43:18

While Chinelo's inserting a straightforward invisible zip...

0:43:180:43:22

It has to be perfect cos if it's not, it'll look silly.

0:43:220:43:25

..Jenni is attempting a more complex fly fastening.

0:43:250:43:28

This piece here is the under-flap of the fly.

0:43:280:43:36

When you undo your zip, you can see this flap here -

0:43:360:43:39

that's basically what I'm doing now.

0:43:390:43:42

There's quite a lot of layers on there.

0:43:430:43:45

I think there's about four layers of fabric.

0:43:450:43:49

And it's just struggling a little bit.

0:43:490:43:51

No, I don't like you.

0:43:510:43:53

A fly.

0:43:560:43:58

That's the best one I've ever done.

0:43:590:44:01

There's Patrick, looming over there.

0:44:010:44:04

All I heard was, "It's the best one I've ever done."

0:44:040:44:07

He's going to wonder how bad the other two were.

0:44:070:44:09

I've got a wrinkle in my zip, which is a shame.

0:44:110:44:14

When I did it at home it was perfect.

0:44:140:44:16

Typical, isn't it?

0:44:160:44:17

He's bound to see it.

0:44:180:44:20

He'll spot that at 20 paces.

0:44:210:44:24

Morning. Now, what're you doing?

0:44:240:44:27

Nothing, Patrick.

0:44:270:44:29

-I'm not happy with my zip.

-No. I can see that.

-Don't look yet.

0:44:290:44:34

-Got a little bit of a wrinkle.

-A pucker.

-Yeah.

0:44:340:44:36

Difficult unpicking velvet.

0:44:370:44:39

-I know. I'm going to see what I can do without unpicking it.

-OK.

0:44:390:44:43

-I'll leave you to get on with it.

-I'll have a try with this zip.

-Good.

0:44:430:44:47

Everyone's seen my

0:44:480:44:49

wrinkled zip, so I'm trying to iron it out, press it out.

0:44:490:44:54

Steam it out? Anything it out.

0:44:560:44:58

I'm doing my waistband at the moment.

0:45:030:45:05

On the pattern, there's a V at the very front,

0:45:050:45:09

but the back is quite plain.

0:45:090:45:11

So I've made my own

0:45:110:45:12

pattern piece. I'm going to put a V in the back as well.

0:45:120:45:15

I'm making sure that my V point lies in line with the centre back seam.

0:45:150:45:22

This is the interfacing for the waistband.

0:45:230:45:26

It's stiffening. It gives it some body.

0:45:260:45:29

So I put it in the centre here.

0:45:290:45:31

And when that folds over, that gives a nice waistband.

0:45:310:45:35

-Hello, green velvet lady.

-Hi.

0:45:370:45:40

Let me have a look. Ooh, that's nice.

0:45:400:45:42

Um, I've done the fly and I've done my pockets.

0:45:420:45:46

Waistband needs to look really stiff and very crisp.

0:45:460:45:50

And that fabric hasn't got an awful lot of structure

0:45:500:45:52

-compared with some of the other velvets.

-I know.

0:45:520:45:54

Velvet's a difficult fabric anyway. This one is particularly slippy.

0:45:540:45:58

I'm going to sew in this sturdy interfacing with my waistband.

0:45:580:46:03

I'd be tempted to double this up because this is a very soft fabric.

0:46:030:46:08

-I know you're worried about time, so we'll leave you.

-Thank you.

0:46:080:46:11

14 plus 14 is...

0:46:110:46:15

Chinelo is the only sewer adding an extra layer on top of her trousers.

0:46:150:46:19

I like peplums because of the shape they give.

0:46:200:46:23

They make your waist

0:46:230:46:24

look smaller and hips look bigger and I like that kind of shape.

0:46:240:46:28

I've just cut out the length of my peplum.

0:46:320:46:34

Then, I'll move this up four inches on this central line.

0:46:340:46:37

It makes it longer at the back.

0:46:400:46:41

See? When it's held up like that...

0:46:460:46:47

Heather is the only sewer adding an extra layer underneath her trousers.

0:46:500:46:54

I'm going to half-line my trousers because

0:46:540:46:58

when you get warm, velvet tends to stick to you a little bit.

0:46:580:47:00

I've just literally made a copy of my trousers

0:47:000:47:04

and these will just slip onto the insides.

0:47:040:47:07

They look like giant bloomers, don't they?

0:47:070:47:11

What's the matter?

0:47:300:47:31

-Can you put it right?

-Not without re-doing my waistband.

0:47:310:47:35

(The thing is, it should be...)

0:47:350:47:37

That's fine. It's supposed to be like that.

0:47:370:47:40

(Thanks, darling.)

0:47:400:47:41

I've done the double interfacing, so I've got a nice, stiff waistband.

0:47:440:47:48

But I was so concerned about the velvet

0:47:480:47:51

and the lining that I've put my waistbands on the wrong way round.

0:47:510:47:57

Sewers, you have half an hour left.

0:48:040:48:06

Seems roughly about right. Do you want to look?

0:48:210:48:24

-That's cool.

-Yeah?

-Thank you very much.

-No worries.

0:48:240:48:26

Because velvet bruises easily,

0:48:290:48:31

the hems should be delicately hand-sewn.

0:48:310:48:33

I love hand-sewing. Lovely.

0:48:330:48:36

My favourite thing to do.

0:48:360:48:38

But David plans a short cut.

0:48:380:48:41

Tell me what hems you're going to do on these.

0:48:410:48:44

I'm going to try to do a blind hem with the machine.

0:48:440:48:47

The mere fact that you have to fold the velvet

0:48:470:48:49

as you put it under

0:48:490:48:51

the machine, you are creasing your velvet, so that is really crucial.

0:48:510:48:56

On Savile Row we'd normally sew this by hand.

0:48:560:48:59

Quite tempted to do it by hand.

0:48:590:49:01

Sewers, you've got ten minutes. Ten minutes left.

0:49:040:49:07

I'm very, very quickly trying to hand-sew my hem.

0:49:100:49:15

I don't mind-hand sewing. It's good when you've got time, not great

0:49:250:49:28

when you haven't.

0:49:280:49:30

I'm hemming my trousers, I've only got five minutes.

0:49:300:49:33

So to say it's rushed is an understatement.

0:49:330:49:36

Right.

0:49:400:49:41

Just got to put my bar and hook on now

0:49:460:49:49

but I want to press my waistband at least.

0:49:490:49:51

I'm just sewing in my hook and eye

0:49:530:49:55

but finding this whole process quite upsetting.

0:49:550:49:59

There's nothing worse than

0:49:590:50:00

putting all your effort into a waistband that's wrong.

0:50:000:50:04

One minute. One!

0:50:040:50:06

I think they're good enough for a dinner party.

0:50:130:50:17

Lovely.

0:50:170:50:18

Right. That's it. That's it. Time's up.

0:50:180:50:22

Chinelo, I need to see you. Oh, yes.

0:50:220:50:25

What I haven't told you is we're all going to a velvet trouser

0:50:250:50:29

party back at mine. Well done. Look at you.

0:50:290:50:31

Honest opinion? I hate them.

0:50:330:50:34

They're terribly finished and the waistband's not right.

0:50:340:50:38

But at least I'm not walking around in my pants.

0:50:380:50:41

JOLLY '20s MUSIC

0:50:410:50:45

The sewers will now model their own trousers

0:50:470:50:50

for Patrick and May to judge.

0:50:500:50:51

First up, the goddess that is Lynda.

0:50:510:50:55

I would say those are a really good-fitting pair of trousers.

0:51:010:51:05

-Thank you. They feel lovely.

-Yeah.

-Nice, flat waistband.

0:51:050:51:10

Also we cannot see where you stitched your hems.

0:51:100:51:15

Invisible.

0:51:150:51:16

Can we look at the fly as well?

0:51:160:51:18

Can we have a look?

0:51:180:51:20

-One little pucker.

-That's what I was worried about.

0:51:200:51:23

But it's a very neatly sewn and well-fitted pair of trousers.

0:51:230:51:26

They fit you really well. They really are a good fit.

0:51:350:51:38

Some really lovely top stitching around your waist.

0:51:380:51:41

The execution of that peplum is really, really good.

0:51:410:51:44

It's been nicely handled.

0:51:440:51:45

But you haven't concealed the hook and bar.

0:51:450:51:49

Somehow it's pulling open a bit but...

0:51:490:51:52

I think overall it's a pretty good pair of trousers.

0:51:520:51:55

-Yeah. Well done. Well done.

-Thank you very much.

0:51:550:51:57

I think your darts are slightly uneven.

0:52:060:52:08

This one is just slightly

0:52:080:52:10

deeper than that one but they're very cleanly pressed.

0:52:100:52:12

And I measured them as well. It must be about two stitches.

0:52:120:52:15

Really well inserted zip. Putting a zip in on a fabric like this

0:52:150:52:19

is tricky, isn't it?

0:52:190:52:21

-Everything you've done, you've done well. Well done.

-Well done.

0:52:210:52:24

-Thank you very much, Heather.

-Thank you.

-Jenni, please come forward.

0:52:240:52:29

I have to say, Jenni, that this was probably one of the most difficult

0:52:380:52:42

velvets to work with in the room. It just bounced all over

0:52:420:52:44

-the place, didn't it?

-Yes.

0:52:440:52:46

Now, what happened with the waistband?

0:52:460:52:48

In my attempt to ensure I had a stiff waistband,

0:52:480:52:51

as per Patrick's requirement,

0:52:510:52:53

I lost it for a moment and put it on the wrong way round.

0:52:530:52:55

Yes, your shaping should be slightly different.

0:52:550:52:58

I think the fly isn't quite right, it's not concealing all of that

0:52:580:53:02

-zip as it should be.

-No.

0:53:020:53:05

-What's going on at the bottom?

-It's double.

0:53:050:53:08

It just looks a little bit lumpy.

0:53:080:53:10

They're not sitting cleanly round the bottom.

0:53:100:53:12

OK.

0:53:120:53:13

I think they're a very, very good fit.

0:53:220:53:25

They don't appear to be dragging, hanging nicely.

0:53:250:53:27

I'm a bit concerned that we're seeing

0:53:270:53:29

a little bit of that facing coming through.

0:53:290:53:32

That just needs controlling somehow. If you're going to put

0:53:320:53:35

a contrast inside,

0:53:350:53:37

you have to make absolutely sure that it's all on the inside.

0:53:370:53:41

This pocket looks smashing.

0:53:410:53:43

Can I turn you sideways? We have got a tiny bit of movement here

0:53:430:53:47

but a minor detail.

0:53:470:53:49

Overall, it's a very good pair of trousers.

0:53:490:53:52

-I think they're a good-fitting pair of trousers.

-Thank you.

0:54:020:54:05

Your darts are pressed out well

0:54:050:54:08

and you've done a good job with the pockets.

0:54:080:54:11

But on this side we've got some walking. The back part

0:54:110:54:14

of the seam is flat and the front bit, there's some fullness in there,

0:54:140:54:19

where it's moved as you've sewn it.

0:54:190:54:21

The fly's well executed.

0:54:210:54:23

Maybe just needed a prick stitch along the edge just to keep

0:54:230:54:27

that velvet closed but it is covering the zip which is

0:54:270:54:30

the important thing. Overall, a perfectly wearable pair of trousers.

0:54:300:54:33

Thank you.

0:54:330:54:34

Thank you for your brilliant trousers and indeed your modelling.

0:54:400:54:45

Go and have a relax. The judges will deliberate.

0:54:450:54:50

And when you come back in,

0:54:500:54:51

they will announce who will be leaving the sewing room.

0:54:510:54:54

Velvet trousers. I was so excited but I just completely underestimated

0:54:560:55:00

what I was letting myself in for. It was a tough, tough day.

0:55:000:55:05

Yesterday wasn't a great day for me. I just don't know

0:55:050:55:09

whether I've done enough to stay.

0:55:090:55:11

Let's talk about who's going.

0:55:140:55:17

I think there are probably a couple of contenders.

0:55:170:55:21

-OK.

-Sadly, Jenni's trousers really were a bit of a mess.

0:55:210:55:26

The waistband - we've got a huge mistake here -

0:55:260:55:29

the fly wasn't terrific.

0:55:290:55:30

These turn ups are not very good at all.

0:55:300:55:34

Jenni didn't cope with that challenge very well.

0:55:340:55:36

Heather came fifth in the first two challenges.

0:55:360:55:39

Well, her trousers were really good.

0:55:390:55:42

But not the most complicated construction - no pockets.

0:55:420:55:45

They were the simplest pair of trousers.

0:55:450:55:47

This wasn't very well finished, wasn't one of our best anoraks.

0:55:470:55:51

She could be in trouble.

0:55:510:55:52

I think, for sure, Heather needs further consideration.

0:55:520:55:55

Good luck, guys.

0:56:010:56:02

Before the bad news, the good news.

0:56:120:56:16

And the judges can reveal their garment of the week. Patrick.

0:56:160:56:20

This week we chose...

0:56:200:56:23

-this garment.

-ALL: Yey!

0:56:230:56:26

So congratulations, Tamara,

0:56:260:56:28

brilliant, professional piece of sewing.

0:56:280:56:31

And Patrick would quite like to buy it from you.

0:56:310:56:34

Now the hideous bit.

0:56:340:56:36

The person who's leaving the Sewing Bee is...

0:56:390:56:43

I'm really sorry. It's Jenni.

0:56:480:56:50

I told you.

0:56:500:56:52

-Oh, sorry.

-No, it's good. It's the right decision.

0:56:520:56:55

You're our most inexperienced sewer

0:56:550:56:56

but you have done some brilliant sewing.

0:56:560:57:00

Given the very limited amount of time that Jenni has been sewing,

0:57:000:57:03

she has really impressed both May and I.

0:57:030:57:06

It's sad to be losing her to the competition

0:57:060:57:09

but, at the end of the day,

0:57:090:57:10

we're looking for the best sewer and this week that wasn't Jenni.

0:57:100:57:13

It's getting harder to say goodbye to people each week now,

0:57:130:57:16

especially Jenni. It's going to be really hard not having

0:57:160:57:19

her in the room and her energy.

0:57:190:57:21

-Cos she's my Jenni baby.

-Yeah.

0:57:210:57:24

Sewing, for me, gives you everything you can ever imagine.

0:57:240:57:28

You think of something in your head

0:57:280:57:30

and you're able to recreate that in a garment that you can wear.

0:57:300:57:33

Anybody can pick up a needle and thread and make something,

0:57:330:57:36

and that's just phenomenal.

0:57:360:57:38

I love you guys.

0:57:400:57:41

I didn't think I'd be in this long but to be

0:57:430:57:46

though now to the quarterfinal is brilliant.

0:57:460:57:50

Wow!

0:57:500:57:52

At the next Sewing Bee...

0:57:540:57:56

I'd better get a shift on.

0:57:560:57:58

..the quarterfinalists face a mysterious pattern.

0:57:580:58:02

It's almost like it's in Morse code.

0:58:020:58:04

They transform an entire man's suit.

0:58:040:58:07

That's a big bloke, isn't it?

0:58:070:58:09

And take on the heftiest made-to-measure challenge so far.

0:58:090:58:13

It's so bulky!

0:58:130:58:14

A classic coat.

0:58:160:58:18

I have got a lot to do.

0:58:180:58:19

RIPPING

0:58:190:58:20

Oh, lordy!

0:58:200:58:22

Applications for the next series of Sewing Bee will be closing soon,

0:58:240:58:28

so if you or someone you know would like to apply,

0:58:280:58:30

please got to... bbc.co.uk/sewingbee

0:58:300:58:34

You'll also find ideas there

0:58:340:58:36

for sewing projects inspired by the series.

0:58:360:58:38

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