International Week The Great British Sewing Bee


International Week

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As we enter our fourth week, our magnificent seven sewers

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are about to tackle techniques and fabrics from all over the world.

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The Great British Sewing Bee is going international.

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At the last sewing bee...

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I haven't got a bloody clue.

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..things got a little bit 50 Shades..

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At my age, I should know better.

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..as the sewers got their hands on lingerie.

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How can that fit on someone's boob?

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Charlotte won garment of the week for the first time...

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APPLAUSE

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..and after a disastrous Made-to-measure...

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-Jamie, isn't it a bit late for cutting out?

-Yeah, it is.

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..Jamie's time in the sewing room

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ended earlier than anyone was expecting.

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You've been a bright star, Jamie.

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Now the seven remaining sewers...

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Ooh-ah.

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..will travel the world...

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Oh, come on.

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..with a Pattern Challenge from the Far East...

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Origami here. I'm losing my marbles.

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..an Alteration that could last forever...

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Blimey. It goes on and on and on.

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..and a Made-to-measure...

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-Look, you're matching.

-Yes -

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I thought I'd have a go with a piece, you see?

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..all the way from West Africa.

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Josh.

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How are you?

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I'm all right, yeah. How are you?

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# Come fly with me

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# Let's fly, let's fly away. #

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My tactic for this week is not to overcomplicate things.

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Right, Joyce?

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I'm sorting myself out.

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I am actually going to go more simple

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but try and present a perfect garment.

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-Look what I've found.

-An unpicker, Joyce.

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Well, I've been using my little one all this time.

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Not that I've used it a lot, you understand.

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I think mine's gone blunt.

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LAUGHTER

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I never thought I would be the last man standing.

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I need to start climbing up the ladder in the first two challenges.

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They are the ones that I have struggled with every week.

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We are all on a knife edge.

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Everybody is good. All it takes is one bad day

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and any of us could be leaving.

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Good morning, sewers.

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Now, this week each challenge focuses on a different country

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or a different culture.

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-Feeling OK so far?

-No.

-OK.

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Quite a lot of shaking heads. All right.

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Patrick, what do you have for them?

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I'll hand you out a pattern.

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A Chinese top.

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This one is called a qipao.

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It's tight fitting,

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it's got a Mandarin collar

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and it's made with an elaborate brocade.

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Has anybody made anything like this before?

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No.

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Welcome to International Week.

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You have three hours and 45 minutes.

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Your time starts now.

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-Whoo!

-LAUGHTER

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No running.

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Mine.

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Ha-ha-ha.

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If you're having that, I'm having red.

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-Do you want to swap?

-Yeah!

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I've chosen this really nice teal brocade.

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I really love the colour.

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I've gone for green just because I think it looks really rich

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and, like, emerald green,

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although I'm sure my Chinese friend is going to be like, "No, red.

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"Red, prosperity." I think.

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Silk brocade has been worn in China since the Middle Ages.

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Its combination of fine silk

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and gold thread demands very skilful sewing.

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I have worked brocade before and it just frays like mad.

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Why International Week?

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Well, we are surrounded in this country

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by clothes from all over the world,

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and so many of these pieces of clothing we see every day

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have inspired and transformed Western clothing.

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Let's talk about this top.

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It looks incredibly tricky.

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It will be tricky.

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It's asymmetrical.

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This edge is not on the grain

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so they have to be really careful how they sew that

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and don't stretch it.

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This collar looks tricky.

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They have to sew this Mandarin collar

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with complete and utter precision.

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Yes, it will be really obvious if it is not the same at the front.

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It will be really obvious if it doesn't fit here

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and that has to be beautifully top-stitched.

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We are looking for these panels to fit flush to the mannequin.

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And the darts have to be on the same level

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and they mustn't be what I call "poky".

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OK, so it's a closely fitted,

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really quite complex garment

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made with fabric that frays.

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-Yes.

-Correct.

-Wow.

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Never made a Chinese top before. I have worn one.

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It is something that, hopefully, I would like to wear

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if I get the opportunity afterwards.

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The qipao style top pattern contains seven separate pieces.

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Darts are sewn into the main front and back pieces to give shape.

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The two front panels are stitched to the back at the shoulders.

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An invisible zip is added to the right seam

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and a Mandarin collar is attached to the neck.

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This is the first time I have worked with brocade.

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The fabric is quite slippery

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so I've decided to use my pattern weights to put it down

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in the right places, and then I'll pin it.

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I went for the double pins and weights option

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just to be really sure nothing's moving!

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There is two darts in the back and four in the front,

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which is quite a few darts.

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I am tailor-tacking, so that I know where my darts need to go.

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Tailor's chalk rubs off shiny fabric

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so the sewers need to find other ways

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to mark the crucial positioning of the darts.

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So, I'm just marking the dots of the dart with the pins.

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Mark out all the different points in dot to dot,

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join it together, make a dart.

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I'm just go to join up the dots with a pen

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so I can see what I need to do.

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It's very important that the darts are even.

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Because this is such a tight-fitting garment,

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if they're not, then it will just look skew-whiff.

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Once marked, the fabric in the dart is folded in on itself

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and secured with a line of stitching.

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The darts are tricky

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only because you've got to have a nice, soft taper.

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You can't have a lump either end.

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I'm leaving the pins in.

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Sometimes I take them out so I don't sew over them,

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but in this case I'd rather break a needle.

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Take out my tailor's tack.

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With a press, that's the first one done.

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-Have you put the darts in?

-I have one dart in.

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-Have you ever done anything like this before?

-No.

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I've never done anything like this before.

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I haven't worked with this type of fabric before.

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Now, I don't want to bring up last week's Pattern Challenge...

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-Yes, you do.

-Yeah, I can't help myself,

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but is it important to you that this week you do well?

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Absolutely, yeah.

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It's important that I finish and I do well.

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But not everyone's making progress.

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-Are you all right?

-I'm OK, yeah.

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It's just taking me a while to cut out and transfer the markings

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and stuff like that.

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-So you haven't done any sewing at all?

-No.

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-I want you to get a move on.

-Yeah, I know.

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Is it bad that I am saying that? It's because I love you, Josh.

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I know. I know. It's my trouble, you see?

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Do you need this situation?

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-Yeah.

-Shall I bring it?

-Yes, please, yeah.

-All right.

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-This is a beautiful fabric.

-Thank you.

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# I'd love to get you

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# On a slow boat to China... #

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Once the darts are finished,

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there's even more precision required around the neckline.

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Is this bias binding?

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This is bias binding.

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You are brilliant, Joyce.

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I've just been at Josh's station.

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He has literally just opened the pattern.

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The bound asymmetrical neckline

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is the most noticeable part of the garment.

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The binding appears to go here.

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It just takes a lot of concentration to make sure

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that you're pinning the right sides together.

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Any flaws here and the classic lines of the qipao will be ruined.

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Don't stretch it.

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-See that row of stitching there?

-Yes.

-That holds it.

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-OK, but it's not pulled?

-Oh, no.

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So I need to trim all this excess away

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and then I'll be able to fold it around like that

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and that's how it should finish off,

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so you won't be able to see any of the bias binding.

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It will be a nice clean edge.

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While most of the sewers are using the machine to attach their binding,

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Joyce has other ideas.

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My hand stitching is nothing compared to Charlotte's

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but it's on and it's secure.

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So now I'm concentrating on this little bit here.

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-Good morning.

-Good morning.

-Good morning, Jade.

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-How are you getting on?

-Good. I've got my binding.

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Show me the...

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So, you sew it on and then it says fold it in half

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-and then top-stitch it on.

-And what does it say halfway down?

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"Fold the binding to the wrong side of the garment

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"and press the pin in place."

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Oh, so the binding goes actually on the whole of the inside, does it?

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What does it say?

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-I did read it!

-Did you?

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-Yes, I did read it.

-Yeah?

-Obviously, er...

-Yeah.

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We wrote it in English, too.

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Are you sure?

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The binding goes along the inside.

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I've just learnt that.

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-The penny is dropping all around the room.

-Mm.

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-What are we doing?

-I did that.

-Yeah.

-But it doesn't.

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-It goes on at the inside.

-Oh, it doesn't?

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Oh, all that hand-sewing for nothing.

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Oh, I prefer it showing.

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-Yeah, same. I was proper happy with my top stitching.

-Dare I leave it?

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Isn't that more interesting?

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I'm going to leave it.

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Honestly, I like that.

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So I'll be marked down, but...

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"With the right sides together,

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"pin and sew the two front panels

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"to the back panel at the shoulder seam."

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The pattern demands that the qipao closes from left to right.

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I'm just trying to make sure I am crossing the right piece

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over the right piece.

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The Chinese considered a right to left fastening barbaric.

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I'm just trying to work it out in my own mind.

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Origami here.

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I'm losing my marbles.

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Right. Okey dokey.

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So many parts to it, with the left front, the right front, the upper...

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It's just very confusing to keep track.

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I honestly don't... I'm not on track,

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but I don't think I'm a mile behind where I want to be.

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That goes over there,

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that goes over there. OK.

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Right, next.

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Oh, God, the zip.

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We've seen some of them insert invisible zips,

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but it's never been in a Pattern Challenge before.

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Can we talk about this one? Because this one looks tricky.

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Will you open it for me and describe, Esme?

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Right.

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So what's important here is that this invisible zip

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goes up to this point here.

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So it won't go all the way to the top, so they're going to have

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to put the invisible zip in first and then put this on.

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It's just more the positioning of the zipper, I think, on this one.

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If you look at the back of it,

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the zip notch is quite far down in comparison to the top,

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so I don't know what way it sits, to be honest.

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Where do you line-up the top of the zip? On the left, front?

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I think you've got to do it to that side of the zipper tape,

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so that when it all gets turned the right way out,

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you won't see the edge of the zipper tape.

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Oh, I see.

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-Happy with it so far?

-Erm...hm.

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Got a bit confused with the zip.

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Well, it should finish up here.

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I know, and I tried to measure it out but it just didn't...

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-Because all of a sudden now, this is going somewhere very different.

-Oh.

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I measured it out and everything, and it didn't really work like that.

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-I think you might have to just...

-Make do.

-..press on.

-Oh, no, right.

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Let me see. That goes like so, I hope.

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-Jade, the side with the zip...

-Yeah?

-Because I'm totally confused there.

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I would have left that open on the armhole.

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-And it doesn't say to in the pattern.

-No.

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Doesn't that make sense to leave it open there?

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One hour left...

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on your first International Challenge.

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This is where the garment's going to start,

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-hopefully, coming together.

-This is a Mandarin collar.

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Never done one of these before.

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It's a little collar that just stands up all the way round

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close to the neck.

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You've got to iron up this edge a centimetre all the way along.

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Ow! Without burning your fingers.

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Hah! It's hot, it's hot, it's hot.

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The thing they're going to be looking for is that it's the same.

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Got to try and make sure I keep it really symmetrical.

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I've sewn the collar together and pressed under the underside.

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And I'm now attaching it to the neck.

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That gets pressed it like that. Duh-duh.

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So that's where we're at at the moment.

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My collar is going in.

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Whether it's a good collar or a bad collar, I've no idea -

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I've never made one of these before.

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I think I'm handling it OK. OK, that's that bit done.

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Showing the armhole facings,

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just catching them at top and bottom shoulder seams.

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Just so they don't all pop out like that, look, see?

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Normally you'd sew it all the way round.

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Half an hour left, sewers, half an hour left.

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We've only got half an hour left,

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so we're not sewing it all the way around.

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I'm just finding the middle point of the collar.

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Then, when I find the middle point of the neckline,

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I know how much ease is going to have to go in either side.

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Oh, come on.

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-Get your boobies out the way!

-Do you need a hand, Charlotte?

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I can't get it on... Yes, please.

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If you have a minute.

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-I can help squeeze your shoulders.

-You squeeze my shoulders.

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-There we go. There we go.

-Phew!

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Seriously, imagine actually having to...

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-Did I undo the zip?

-Have you undone the zip?

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-I haven't undone the bloody zip!

-That helps, doesn't it?

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What a good idea if I undid the zip.

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The zip is undone.

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I stretched out my neckline.

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Can do nothing about that. Shouldn't have looked.

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I just put my top on my mannequin and I realised

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I stretched out the front edge, so I'm a bit annoyed about that.

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It's stretched out because I didn't do the stay stitching.

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Because I didn't read the pattern properly.

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The judges are so going to notice.

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-15 minutes left.

-Right, let's do it.

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Let's get the old frogging on.

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Frogging is an ornamental fastening

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traditionally used on Chinese garments instead of buttons.

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-Look, isn't that pretty?

-That's so pretty!

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Yes, I thought so.

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You know where the frogs go

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because there's actually a marking on the pattern.

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It's not made easier

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by the mannequin being a lot taller than me.

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I love what hand sewing does for a garment,

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I just bloody hate doing it.

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It just really needs a press, but I don't think I'll have time.

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-One more.

-I've run out of thread.

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-Oh, I'm so annoyed.

-What's the hem?

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-Just a single fold?

-I'm doing it twice because it's just such a mess.

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Look at the bottom of it now.

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SHE LAUGHS

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See, I've got threads everywhere.

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Never ideal to sew a hem in a rush. Ever.

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Tracey's happy! Are you done?

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-Yeah, I think so.

-Tracey, shout for me "two minutes".

-Two minutes.

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Are we all done?

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No, that was too nice, you have to do it with slightly more aggression.

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Just two minutes!

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A shock you had to say my name here, look.

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Two minutes, blimey.

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I don't how you work this contraption.

0:15:260:15:29

Right, just ease it over.

0:15:290:15:30

OK, the challenge is over.

0:15:340:15:35

-Scissors down, scissors down.

-My hands are here.

0:15:370:15:40

Take your mannequins over to the judges.

0:15:400:15:44

Mine's had a drink.

0:15:440:15:46

Seven qipao tops made from scratch -

0:15:510:15:53

but what will Esme and Patrick

0:15:530:15:55

make of the first garments of International Week?

0:15:550:15:59

Angeline, you're up first. Please bring your top forward.

0:15:590:16:02

-It's a little bit tight.

-Mm-hm.

0:16:080:16:10

It could have been because on each seam you took too much

0:16:100:16:13

-on the four darts and the two seams.

-Mm-hm.

0:16:130:16:16

Let's undo here.

0:16:160:16:17

That's pretty good.

0:16:170:16:19

I think this could have been pressed a bit better.

0:16:190:16:22

And can you see how this is slightly baggy here?

0:16:220:16:25

That collar is a little square, and that one's a little round,

0:16:250:16:28

which is throwing me off a little bit.

0:16:280:16:30

It's all there, it just lacks a little finesse.

0:16:300:16:33

The front of this is really smooth and flat. The collar looks even.

0:16:400:16:45

That's in well.

0:16:470:16:48

All the important bits are right,

0:16:480:16:50

all the darts are in the right place.

0:16:500:16:52

The armholes look really neat and smooth.

0:16:520:16:55

It's a really clean, crisp, precise piece of sewing.

0:16:550:16:59

-There's not much I can really say to fault it.

-Thank you.

0:16:590:17:02

-You've done well.

-Thank you.

0:17:020:17:04

So, the first thing that strikes me

0:17:130:17:16

is that you've taking your own path to finishing this edge.

0:17:160:17:19

Honestly, I misread the pattern.

0:17:190:17:21

I was actually going to come back to that and alter it, if I had time.

0:17:210:17:25

OK. So, there's that. Let's have a look at your zip.

0:17:250:17:29

Something is completely wro...

0:17:290:17:32

You've done it your own way, you've given us a bound edge

0:17:320:17:35

and you've given us a completely different opening,

0:17:350:17:37

but actually you've done it quite nicely and it sits well.

0:17:370:17:40

The darts are good, the collar looks good, but...

0:17:400:17:43

It's not what we asked for.

0:17:430:17:45

-You're infuriating, Joyce.

-I'm sorry.

0:17:450:17:48

-And...

-I'm sorry. I did try.

0:17:480:17:51

Let's have a look at the zip. OK, well, it goes up and down.

0:17:550:17:59

But I think it can't quite be high enough. Did you go to the notch?

0:17:590:18:03

I think I mismatched my notches.

0:18:030:18:06

-So we've got one where the bosom will be coming through.

-Yeah.

0:18:060:18:10

You've sewn the darts nicely.

0:18:100:18:12

But it's all in the right place, it's just...

0:18:120:18:15

-Still waiting for that perfect sew.

-Yeah.

0:18:160:18:18

You haven't quite got this bit right.

0:18:240:18:27

This zip should have finished higher up, which would have lifted that up.

0:18:270:18:31

There's all sorts of stuff that's just pulling it out of shape here.

0:18:310:18:35

And you've also overstretched this edge.

0:18:350:18:38

Give it a little move around and it's starting to open up and gape.

0:18:380:18:43

Judges.

0:18:480:18:50

-Don't make me cry.

-This one's not breaking.

-I know.

0:18:500:18:53

Because so much of it is so good, the darts are really neat,

0:18:530:18:57

the seams are well together, and then you've just gone and done this.

0:18:570:19:01

You've stretched that whole front edge so far out of shape that,

0:19:010:19:05

really, it's kind of... barely wearable.

0:19:050:19:09

Everything else is sewn really nicely and beautifully.

0:19:090:19:13

-I'm really upset.

-This just wasn't a good one for you.

-No.

0:19:130:19:18

Thank you very much, thank you, Charlotte.

0:19:180:19:20

-WHISPERS:

-Don't worry, it's only sewing, it's only sewing. It's OK.

0:19:280:19:31

HE EXHALES

0:19:380:19:40

-Right, Josh. Well, I don't think you've done badly at all.

-Thank you.

0:19:400:19:46

The collar is pretty even. The zip...

0:19:460:19:50

..is pretty good as well.

0:19:500:19:52

The most obvious bit, for me,

0:19:520:19:54

is the way that it's sitting across the chest.

0:19:540:19:57

And this is sitting really nicely across the chest.

0:19:570:19:59

You've got your binding,

0:19:590:20:01

the accuracy with which you've top-stitched it round there

0:20:010:20:03

is really good.

0:20:030:20:04

You were slow into it, but once you got there,

0:20:040:20:07

it's a really good piece of sewing,

0:20:070:20:09

so you should be very pleased with it.

0:20:090:20:11

-Thank you very much.

-Yes, you've done well.

-Thank you.

0:20:110:20:14

Esme and Patrick will now reveal who has mastered the qipao.

0:20:160:20:20

In seventh place, after much philosophical rumination,

0:20:200:20:24

it's Joyce.

0:20:240:20:26

And only because you didn't follow the instructions.

0:20:260:20:30

In sixth place is Jade.

0:20:300:20:32

The front was wobbly, the zip wasn't in the right place.

0:20:320:20:36

'Charlotte is fifth. Rumana is forth

0:20:360:20:39

'and Angeline is third.'

0:20:390:20:41

In second place...

0:20:410:20:43

..is Josh. And well done, Josh.

0:20:450:20:49

This is what it feels like to be in the top two!

0:20:490:20:52

You did really well,

0:20:520:20:54

and you were really panicked at the beginning but you pulled it back.

0:20:540:20:57

-Thank you.

-So, our winner is Tracy.

0:20:570:21:00

APPLAUSE

0:21:000:21:02

Very crisp, beautifully flat around the chest,

0:21:020:21:06

a beautiful piece of sewing.

0:21:060:21:07

Well, you can go and celebrate,

0:21:070:21:09

make an enormous fuss of Josh, who...

0:21:090:21:11

-Yeah.

-Thank you.

-Very well done. ..came second.

0:21:110:21:14

And then when you come back,

0:21:140:21:15

there will be the International Alteration Challenge.

0:21:150:21:19

# I'm mad about the boy... #

0:21:190:21:24

Well done, Tracy. Well done, Josh.

0:21:240:21:26

I'm sorry I've kind of stole your thunder.

0:21:260:21:28

You're all right, darling, you're all right.

0:21:280:21:30

This feeling is as good a scoring the winning goal in football.

0:21:300:21:33

Not that I get the chance to score very often.

0:21:330:21:35

Absolutely chuffed to bits.

0:21:350:21:37

Really, really thrilled with that.

0:21:370:21:39

That wasn't my favourite judging experience.

0:21:390:21:42

I think if Joyce hadn't had done a Joyce,

0:21:420:21:44

I definitely would have been in seventh place.

0:21:440:21:47

Everybody thinks I went off-piste,

0:21:470:21:49

but there were only two things, you know, that I did differently!

0:21:490:21:53

My favourite bit, I'm not sure it's yours,

0:21:580:22:01

but are you ready for your International Week

0:22:010:22:04

Alteration Challenge?

0:22:040:22:05

As ready as we'll ever be.

0:22:050:22:07

We're giving you a garment

0:22:070:22:08

with literally yards of beautiful embroidered fabric.

0:22:080:22:12

GASPS

0:22:140:22:15

Hey!

0:22:150:22:17

It is, of course, a sari -

0:22:170:22:19

and from this we'd like you to make

0:22:190:22:21

a piece of Eastern-inspired clothing.

0:22:210:22:23

Remember, the cutting from the East

0:22:230:22:26

is quite often based on a rectangle, a triangle or a square.

0:22:260:22:32

-All right, judges, you have to leave now. Off you go.

-Are you sure?

0:22:320:22:35

-Yes, goodbye.

-Goodbye.

-The Monopoly board is set up.

0:22:350:22:39

OK, you all have a selection of saris, choose your favourite.

0:22:390:22:42

You've got an hour and a half. Your time starts now.

0:22:420:22:46

-Reveal.

-This one?

0:22:470:22:49

Go for some of those.

0:22:490:22:51

-I'll take this one.

-That's a nice one.

-Do you want that one?

0:22:510:22:54

-That's gorgeous.

-I want one with a big border, so I'm having this one.

0:22:540:22:57

-I'm picking her up.

-How do you even get these things undone?

0:22:570:23:00

Charlotte!

0:23:000:23:01

Blimey! It goes on and on and on.

0:23:010:23:03

It just keeps going!

0:23:030:23:06

The fabric is sheerer than I imagined.

0:23:060:23:08

Consequently, I think it's got to be very gathered.

0:23:080:23:11

You know, or else you'll see your knickers through it.

0:23:110:23:14

This fabric is quite sheer. So you don't want something tight.

0:23:140:23:18

What I'm looking for

0:23:180:23:19

is just a sympathetic use of all of the bits of the sari fabric.

0:23:190:23:23

How much plain fabric they have versus the embroidered sections,

0:23:230:23:27

and how they use those, I think, will be important.

0:23:270:23:29

The colours are vibrant, the embroidery is gorgeous,

0:23:290:23:32

so we want them to make something absolutely fabulous.

0:23:320:23:35

My plan is to make what we call an anarkali.

0:23:350:23:40

Anarkali.

0:23:400:23:41

I'm going to use the blouse bit of the sari,

0:23:410:23:43

and then make these panels, stitch them together,

0:23:430:23:45

and it gives a really flowy skirt.

0:23:450:23:47

I'm going to stitch here for the armholes

0:23:470:23:49

and have something flowing down,

0:23:490:23:51

so it's going to be like a floaty, boxy top.

0:23:510:23:54

-When my dad used to work in the Middle East...

-Yeah?

0:23:540:23:56

..he used to bring home lots of things like this.

0:23:560:23:58

They're basically rectangles,

0:23:580:24:00

so I'm going to use the border

0:24:000:24:01

-on the sleeve and on the bottom.

-Gorgeous.

0:24:010:24:03

I want to make like a Turkish belly dancer's outfit.

0:24:030:24:07

SHE HUMS

0:24:070:24:09

With, like, baggy trousers and then a crop top.

0:24:090:24:12

I think I might make some Israeli trousers.

0:24:120:24:14

I'm making trousers like out of Aladdin.

0:24:140:24:17

If I took that off...

0:24:170:24:19

OK.

0:24:210:24:22

Going to make loose trousers.

0:24:240:24:27

One hour remaining to transform a sari.

0:24:270:24:31

I need to measure the crotch distance,

0:24:310:24:32

because you don't want your pants too tight,

0:24:320:24:34

and I think I want them quite loose.

0:24:340:24:36

I'm just measuring the length,

0:24:360:24:38

just so that I can get the measurement spot on.

0:24:380:24:41

I've cut it so that the top

0:24:410:24:43

and the bottom of the trousers have this nice trim on it.

0:24:430:24:46

I'm thinking about how wide actually I need the body part to be.

0:24:460:24:50

I might make to fit me, never mind the dummy!

0:24:500:24:52

SHE LAUGHS

0:24:520:24:53

Then I can wear it.

0:24:530:24:55

-Hello, darling.

-Hello.

-What are you making?

0:24:570:24:59

I'm sewing these panels that make the skirt,

0:24:590:25:02

-so it comes out in a flared skirt.

-GASPS: Oh, look!

0:25:020:25:05

That's so beautiful.

0:25:050:25:06

I thought it'd be a real shame if we didn't do a sari.

0:25:060:25:09

I've got loads at home, so it'll be really interesting

0:25:090:25:11

to see what everyone comes up with,

0:25:110:25:13

because then I can just refashion them.

0:25:130:25:14

Maybe not my mum's wedding ones and things, but, you know...

0:25:140:25:18

Sewers, you are halfway through.

0:25:180:25:20

This is the little slit at the bottom of the side seam.

0:25:210:25:25

Not the easiest thing in the world to sew,

0:25:250:25:28

because the diamonds or whatever you call them

0:25:280:25:30

keep stopping your needle.

0:25:300:25:32

I'm just sewing the inseam of my trouser legs.

0:25:320:25:35

Going really slowly over this big embroidered bit,

0:25:350:25:38

because it's got little gems in it.

0:25:380:25:39

Makes it less likely that you'll break a needle...

0:25:390:25:42

I'm sewing in the sleeve and the side sleeve all in one,

0:25:420:25:44

so it's like up and across.

0:25:440:25:47

The sleeve when it's done will look like a big square.

0:25:470:25:50

I'll just stretch the elastic as I sew it

0:25:500:25:53

and then it should fit nicely around her waist.

0:25:530:25:55

Doesn't quite meet over her hips.

0:25:560:25:59

She has got quite an odd butt.

0:25:590:26:02

Whilst his trousers ARE fitting,

0:26:020:26:04

Josh still has another garment to make.

0:26:040:26:07

I'm now trying to decide how I'm going to make my top.

0:26:070:26:10

I want to use this,

0:26:100:26:11

but I want it to be a little bit more revealing

0:26:110:26:13

cos it is going to be a belly dancer top.

0:26:130:26:16

Sewers, you have half an hour left,

0:26:160:26:19

to change a sari into... something else.

0:26:190:26:23

I'm gathering the trousers at the bottom,

0:26:250:26:27

and these are the cuffs that they're going to go in.

0:26:270:26:31

Have to make sure you can get your feet over it,

0:26:310:26:33

and let's just hope it comes off

0:26:330:26:36

and the judges forgive me for this morning.

0:26:360:26:39

I might need to take the top in a little bit.

0:26:390:26:41

I just want to check it fits...

0:26:410:26:43

It'll be a disaster if it doesn't fit, which is kind of doesn't.

0:26:430:26:46

Her butt is so big...

0:26:460:26:48

But I'm just going to add a teeny-tiny panel,

0:26:480:26:51

just from there to there.

0:26:510:26:54

It doesn't fit!

0:26:540:26:55

Oh... What to do?

0:26:550:26:57

Will you do it on the other side?

0:26:570:26:59

If I have time to do it on the other side.

0:26:590:27:01

OK. So I need to undo this bit...

0:27:010:27:03

Just going to make a gap in the seam, to open that up.

0:27:030:27:07

There's triangles in the sari,

0:27:070:27:09

so I'm just attaching the trimming at the base of the kimono.

0:27:090:27:13

Can't touch this!

0:27:130:27:15

-No, you can't.

-This...is Hammer Time(!)

0:27:150:27:17

This will be the sleeves for the belly dancer crop top thing.

0:27:190:27:22

Look how beautiful this is!

0:27:240:27:26

Are you making a waistband?

0:27:260:27:28

No, I'm going to hide the horrible front.

0:27:280:27:31

-So do a nice panel!

-Exactly.

-A bit like Esme's wearing today.

0:27:310:27:34

So I've sewn to the inside of my waistband some casing,

0:27:340:27:38

and I'm going to feed some elastic through and then sew it shut.

0:27:380:27:41

I'm just sewing the elastic straight into the actual thing itself...

0:27:410:27:45

I'm gathering the fabric into the bottom cuff -

0:27:450:27:47

I've got to get a lot of fabric in a very small opening.

0:27:470:27:52

You have ten minutes left, sewers!

0:27:530:27:55

Oh, blimey.

0:27:550:27:56

Just keep stitching, just keep stitching...

0:27:560:27:59

Speed sewing is required.

0:27:590:28:01

Sorry...

0:28:050:28:06

Just hand-stitched this on.

0:28:060:28:08

This is a secret,

0:28:080:28:09

to hide the fact

0:28:090:28:10

that I need to be able to get it onto the mannequin...

0:28:100:28:14

I've not only used all of the trim,

0:28:140:28:15

I was scraping to get the final bits for my cuffs.

0:28:150:28:19

Got a bit of a big bum, this model...

0:28:190:28:22

SIX minutes!

0:28:230:28:24

Oh, shush, Claudia!

0:28:240:28:26

Exactly what I was hoping for, puffy at the ankle...

0:28:290:28:32

Ooh, I like that bit, I might have that on it.

0:28:330:28:35

The panel obviously isn't an ideal thing to add in...

0:28:350:28:38

Spotted on the little top that came with it,

0:28:380:28:41

so I'm going to just hand-sew them on the front of there.

0:28:410:28:44

Josh is the only person who's made TWO pieces.

0:28:440:28:47

Good for Josh.

0:28:470:28:48

Can't even thread the needle at the moment.

0:28:480:28:51

One minute.

0:28:510:28:53

There won't be a fastening on the back, because we haven't got time.

0:28:530:28:57

I just think stitching is probably better than a pin in the back.

0:28:570:29:00

Come on!

0:29:010:29:03

-You'd wear that on the beach, wouldn't you?

-Course I would!

0:29:030:29:06

-Time's up!

-That's it.

0:29:090:29:11

Well done, everybody.

0:29:110:29:14

All right, come on, guys. To the front, jiggle them around...

0:29:140:29:17

Well done, love.

0:29:190:29:21

Seven saris totally transformed -

0:29:210:29:23

but what will the judges make of the sewers' attempts

0:29:230:29:26

at Eastern-inspired alterations?

0:29:260:29:28

MUSIC: Sweet Song Of India by The McGuire Sisters

0:29:280:29:31

-Wow.

-I'm absolutely delighted, these are genuinely fantastic.

-Yeah.

0:29:330:29:37

They fill the brief, hey?

0:29:370:29:39

MUSIC: I Am The Walrus by Lord Sitar

0:29:390:29:41

I think this looks great.

0:29:430:29:45

-It's very clearly Eastern in its inspiration.

-Yes.

0:29:450:29:48

It's got a lovely shape to it.

0:29:480:29:50

Fantastic use of the border here...

0:29:500:29:53

and here, and on the bottom.

0:29:530:29:55

-And we've got this little detail here.

-This is lovely.

0:29:550:29:58

-It's great!

-I love this detail.

-I mean, really well thought out.

0:29:580:30:01

-We have some harem pants.

-Yeah. I love these.

0:30:060:30:09

I'd love to wear...something very similar!

0:30:090:30:12

-Right!

-Possibly even these ones in a quiet moment.

0:30:130:30:15

Trousers are such a beautiful, full shape.

0:30:150:30:18

And they've made a channel for the elastic to go in.

0:30:180:30:21

The gathers are very even...

0:30:210:30:22

I mean, these trousers just look absolutely spot on.

0:30:220:30:26

I love 'em.

0:30:260:30:27

-That's a kimono shape...

-Yeah.

0:30:360:30:38

..but they've cut it all in one.

0:30:380:30:40

-So we've only got one seam here...

-Yeah.

0:30:400:30:42

Simple shapes.

0:30:420:30:43

They've thought about

0:30:430:30:45

how they've used the borders...

0:30:450:30:46

Can you see we've got a V here and we've got a V here, as well?

0:30:460:30:50

-Yeah.

-So that's been really...

0:30:500:30:53

-well thought about.

-Is that the same both sides?

-No.

-No.

0:30:530:30:56

Something's happened here where they've seamed the border

0:30:560:30:59

and they've seamed it here, so obviously it wasn't long enough.

0:30:590:31:02

They've run out of border, perhaps.

0:31:020:31:04

So, again, we've got a drawstring trouser.

0:31:130:31:16

This one not QUITE so good.

0:31:160:31:18

And this person's used their top, and they've lengthened it...

0:31:180:31:22

They've given us a lot in a very short space of time -

0:31:220:31:24

I just think it's not quite as neat and tidy as some of the others...

0:31:240:31:27

and it is just too small on the trousers.

0:31:270:31:30

We've got elastic here...

0:31:360:31:38

So they've done the same with the border.

0:31:380:31:41

It's a bit snug around the seat.

0:31:410:31:43

Oh... Hang on a minute.

0:31:430:31:45

What's happened here?

0:31:450:31:46

Well, obviously it was MUCH too small

0:31:460:31:48

and they've had to insert a panel...?

0:31:480:31:50

Maybe there wasn't enough material.

0:31:500:31:52

If they'd inserted a panel on the other side

0:31:520:31:54

we could have said it was jodhpurs.

0:31:540:31:56

It's got a really nice shape to it,

0:32:020:32:04

-all of these panels work extremely well...

-Yes.

0:32:040:32:06

I just feel that this is a little heavy.

0:32:060:32:09

I quite like it.

0:32:090:32:11

That's cos you're almost wearing it!

0:32:110:32:13

Here's MY version.

0:32:130:32:15

They obviously got inspired by me.

0:32:150:32:17

Funnily enough, now I think about it...

0:32:170:32:20

I like it, I think it gives it an accent.

0:32:200:32:23

-It's pretty, isn't it?

-It is.

-The whole thing is...

0:32:230:32:25

I think the whole thing works.

0:32:250:32:27

Our second pair of very full harem-style pants.

0:32:330:32:37

Which, again, I think are really pretty successful,

0:32:370:32:39

I think the shape is fantastic on them.

0:32:390:32:41

-They're very, very long, actually.

-They're very long.

0:32:410:32:44

-Can we get in?

-No... Or is it just a band?

0:32:440:32:48

It's almost like it's been sewn onto the stand. I think it has.

0:32:480:32:52

-That is a drawback. Definitely.

-Definitely!

0:32:520:32:55

It's a stunning effect - but how do we get in?

0:32:550:32:58

The judges will now rank the altered saris,

0:33:000:33:03

starting with the least successful.

0:33:030:33:06

Number seven, pink trousers.

0:33:060:33:09

Oh, that's me.

0:33:090:33:10

-The reason for this is they don't fit very well.

-Mm.

0:33:100:33:14

Sixth place, the turquoise harem pant.

0:33:140:33:18

Joyce. They're a beautiful shape, they absolutely fulfil the brief -

0:33:180:33:22

you just can't put 'em on.

0:33:220:33:23

In fifth place is Josh...

0:33:230:33:25

Angeline is fourth,

0:33:250:33:27

and Rumana is third.

0:33:270:33:29

In second place...

0:33:290:33:31

..is the purple pants.

0:33:330:33:36

Charlotte.

0:33:360:33:37

-I want to see you wearing them!

-Absolutely. I love them.

0:33:370:33:40

You've grabbed this brief, you've used every bit to perfection...

0:33:400:33:44

-Thanks.

-Well done.

-Thank you.

0:33:440:33:46

In first place...

0:33:460:33:48

is this, which is fabulous.

0:33:480:33:50

Yay!

0:33:500:33:52

Tracey! For the second time today...

0:33:520:33:55

-A double first.

-A double first.

0:33:550:33:57

I think I'm getting the hang of this now!

0:33:570:33:59

You've used the elements of the sari really nicely.

0:34:000:34:04

Thank you.

0:34:040:34:05

An enormous well done to all of you.

0:34:050:34:09

Go home, eat something international,

0:34:090:34:11

and we will see you back here tomorrow

0:34:110:34:13

for the big Made-to-measure Challenge.

0:34:130:34:16

Off you go.

0:34:160:34:17

What a day!

0:34:170:34:19

-Yeah, what a day.

-Hey, superstar.

0:34:190:34:22

To actually get two firsts is really more than I expected.

0:34:220:34:26

Seriously, can I have yours?! Can I have it?

0:34:260:34:28

SHE LAUGHS

0:34:280:34:29

In terms of the first day

0:34:290:34:31

this has definitely been my most successful -

0:34:310:34:33

in fact you could probably say this has been

0:34:330:34:36

my only successful first day!

0:34:360:34:38

But I don't feel safe, in the slightest.

0:34:380:34:41

-Well done.

-That's good.

0:34:410:34:43

Coming seventh and then sixth today is not my best day,

0:34:430:34:47

and I feel rather despondent.

0:34:470:34:49

So I'm going to have a very, very large glass of wine,

0:34:490:34:53

and something to eat and watch a bit of telly.

0:34:530:34:56

There's one challenge left in International Week.

0:35:020:35:05

In just a few hours, someone will win Garment of the Week.

0:35:050:35:08

And somebody else will have to leave the sewing room.

0:35:080:35:11

For me there's only one person

0:35:110:35:14

who's really stood out this week, and that's Tracey.

0:35:140:35:17

Let's talk about Josh.

0:35:170:35:19

He did really well on the Chinese top.

0:35:190:35:21

He normally waits until the Made-to-measure

0:35:210:35:23

before he pulls his finger out.

0:35:230:35:24

Joyce, who had a brilliant week last week, almost came bottom in BOTH.

0:35:240:35:28

-Is she in trouble?

-She hadn't followed the pattern.

-Yeah.

0:35:280:35:31

Jade and Joyce are in the most precarious position.

0:35:310:35:34

Unless she has a horrible disaster, Tracey is fine.

0:35:340:35:37

But I don't think any of those others are absolutely safe at all.

0:35:370:35:40

Everyone's future in the Sewing Bee now rests on their ability

0:35:400:35:44

to make an international garment

0:35:440:35:46

not to fit a mannequin, but a real person.

0:35:460:35:48

-Hiya.

-Hello, darling!

0:35:490:35:52

Good morning, sewers!

0:35:530:35:55

For your Made-to-measure Challenge

0:35:550:35:57

the judges would love you to create a dress

0:35:570:36:00

that's been inspired by West Africa.

0:36:000:36:02

They've asked you to use a wax print fabric.

0:36:020:36:06

You have five and a half hours.

0:36:060:36:08

Enormous luck - your time starts now.

0:36:080:36:11

Whilst the sewers have had a chance to practise

0:36:120:36:14

their dresses at home...

0:36:140:36:16

(She's getting naked.)

0:36:160:36:18

..now they'll have to perfect the fit on their model,

0:36:180:36:20

with their chosen West African fabric.

0:36:200:36:23

Oh, I do like this fabric, I must confess.

0:36:230:36:26

The fabric definitely has a weight to it. It's not too slippery...

0:36:270:36:30

and it just feels like it's going to be really nice on the body.

0:36:300:36:34

Traditional West African dresses are very, very fitted,

0:36:340:36:37

very sculptural, it's all about accentuating the female form,

0:36:370:36:41

producing that beautiful hourglass.

0:36:410:36:42

But then on top of that you've got structured peplums...

0:36:420:36:46

It's exaggerated, these are occasion pieces.

0:36:460:36:49

The fabric has a rigidity about it,

0:36:490:36:51

which enables you to get a really good shape on the peplum,

0:36:510:36:55

and sticking out, and the shoulders -

0:36:550:36:57

and it'll keep its shape.

0:36:570:36:58

Wax print fabric, often called ankara,

0:36:580:37:01

is actually an imitation of batik,

0:37:010:37:03

an ancient Indonesian technique

0:37:030:37:05

that utilises hot wax and dye to create colourful patterns on cloth.

0:37:050:37:10

In 1854 a Dutch textile company found a way to mass-produce

0:37:100:37:13

a batik-style fabric, and tried to sell it to customers in Indonesia.

0:37:130:37:17

They were less than impressed.

0:37:170:37:20

The mechanisation process caused imperfections in the textile.

0:37:200:37:23

So you got a kind of crackle effect.

0:37:230:37:26

Which made it seem sort of hugely inferior,

0:37:260:37:29

so people really did not want to buy this product in Indonesia.

0:37:290:37:32

But Dutch traders found a new market.

0:37:320:37:35

Ships carrying the fabric to and from Indonesia

0:37:350:37:37

were stopping in West Africa

0:37:370:37:39

where it was swapped for food and essentials.

0:37:390:37:41

BECAUSE of its imperfections the locals fell in love with wax print,

0:37:410:37:44

as each piece was seen as totally unique.

0:37:440:37:47

In West Africa, where they were being traded by saleswomen,

0:37:470:37:51

these women would give the particular patterns stories,

0:37:510:37:54

or give them local names.

0:37:540:37:55

So it became really ingrained in the local culture.

0:37:550:37:58

The Dutch printers were keen to listen to local saleswomen

0:37:580:38:01

about what they wanted in the way of colour and design.

0:38:010:38:04

It became much more of a kind of two-way process,

0:38:040:38:08

and you would start to see local stories, local myths,

0:38:080:38:11

images of things with particular symbolic meaning

0:38:110:38:13

becoming part of the pattern.

0:38:130:38:14

So it really becomes an important communicative fabric.

0:38:140:38:19

Wax print is as popular in West African design as it's ever been.

0:38:190:38:22

The reason why it's so popular and it's lasted to long

0:38:220:38:26

is because it's cotton. Africa's a very hot continent.

0:38:260:38:28

So it's very breathable,

0:38:280:38:30

and you get so many designs that you don't have to stop on one print.

0:38:300:38:33

The stiffness of the fabric

0:38:330:38:36

makes it perfect for creating structure,

0:38:360:38:38

so you can make things like beautiful bows -

0:38:380:38:40

even make crazy head wraps and make them stand.

0:38:400:38:42

The fabric sits really well on the body,

0:38:420:38:45

especially if it's bespoke and tailor-made

0:38:450:38:47

to the person's measurements.

0:38:470:38:49

But how will OUR sewers cope,

0:38:490:38:50

making bespoke dresses with this unique fabric?

0:38:500:38:53

I've got the same fabric as Angeline. Which is always a worry!

0:38:530:38:57

-Same fabric world.

-I know!

0:38:570:38:59

-Crazy.

-Hashtag - awkward.

-And that's before we even met!

0:38:590:39:03

Whilst cutting their complex and bold prints...

0:39:030:39:07

the sewers need to constantly think ahead...

0:39:070:39:09

(One, two, three, four, five...)

0:39:090:39:12

..to ensure the pattern will match along the seams of their dress.

0:39:120:39:16

Are you thinking about how you're placing your pattern

0:39:160:39:19

-on the fabric?

-Yeah, I've cut out the front

0:39:190:39:21

-and I've arranged these three up the centre front.

-All right...

0:39:210:39:24

I'm kind of focusing on the gold as my elements

0:39:240:39:27

that I'm going to balance.

0:39:270:39:28

Tracey is making a fitted knee-length dress

0:39:280:39:31

with capped sleeves

0:39:310:39:32

and a peplum at the waist.

0:39:320:39:34

Look, you're matching. Yeah.

0:39:340:39:36

I thought I'd have a go with the piece.

0:39:360:39:38

Did you? Oh, so that is your trial?

0:39:380:39:40

Yeah, this is a piece of ankara fabric.

0:39:400:39:42

-Well - we've had a first and a first from you.

-Yeah...

0:39:420:39:45

Are we going to get a full house?

0:39:450:39:47

Well, hopefully. You never know, do you?

0:39:470:39:49

Josh has chosen to make this final challenge just a little bit harder.

0:39:490:39:54

I think I might be the only person who's using the same fabric

0:39:540:39:57

in two different colours to actually create a different effect.

0:39:570:40:01

He's aiming to match his contrasting patterns

0:40:010:40:03

all the way through the bodice and skirt

0:40:030:40:05

of his full-length fitted dress,

0:40:050:40:07

which has a peplum at the hem.

0:40:070:40:09

Straight lines are quite easy to pattern-match,

0:40:090:40:12

but when you're trying to match a pattern around a curve

0:40:120:40:15

that curve in opposite directions

0:40:150:40:17

it's then a little bit more confusing!

0:40:170:40:19

Right...

0:40:190:40:21

If they think they've positioned their pattern correctly...

0:40:210:40:23

I'm going to be very careful with the placement of these circles

0:40:230:40:27

on the bust.

0:40:270:40:29

We want to avoid circle boobs at all costs.

0:40:290:40:32

..the sewers' next challenge...

0:40:320:40:34

Mm, I'm glad we've got this little trying-on...

0:40:340:40:36

..is to ensure their cut pieces will fit their model.

0:40:360:40:39

Put your hand down, that one...

0:40:390:40:41

This is what you'd call a princess seam dress,

0:40:410:40:44

which means the seams go over the bust and down the front.

0:40:440:40:48

So that's where all the fitting goes - everything relies on all

0:40:480:40:51

the panels intersecting together, because it's in six panels.

0:40:510:40:55

So that everything can be adjusted to get it really snug and tight.

0:40:550:40:58

-Do you think that feels too loose, there?

-A smidgen.

0:40:590:41:03

What I don't want is for it to become too tight for you.

0:41:030:41:06

I'm concentrating on the fitting

0:41:060:41:08

around the waist and around the sides.

0:41:080:41:10

It's hard to fit

0:41:100:41:11

because there is very little movement in the actual fabric.

0:41:110:41:15

Angeline's tight-fitting bodice

0:41:150:41:18

will have an asymmetrical peplum

0:41:180:41:19

at the waist,

0:41:190:41:20

and her short dress will have a choker in matching fabric.

0:41:200:41:24

It's just ensuring that it moves the right way, as well -

0:41:240:41:27

it's all about showing off the curves of the body.

0:41:270:41:30

Let's pull this in nice and tight,

0:41:300:41:32

let's take it in a bit here...

0:41:320:41:34

You can't do this anywhere else but on the model.

0:41:340:41:38

Joyce is repinning her bodice,

0:41:380:41:39

hoping for a perfectly fitting princess seam dress

0:41:390:41:42

with cap sleeves

0:41:420:41:43

in a partial waist peplum.

0:41:430:41:46

-Can we ask you something?

-Oh, go on, then.

0:41:460:41:49

Are you following instructions?

0:41:490:41:51

Absolutely. I'm a changed woman today.

0:41:510:41:53

-Fantastic.

-I'm biddable...

0:41:530:41:56

Biddable?! I can't imagine you ever being biddable.

0:41:560:41:58

-You ask me to do anything, Patrick, and I'll do it.

-Right. Fine.

0:42:000:42:04

-I'd like you to make this dress beautifully.

-I will.

0:42:040:42:06

MUSIC: Pata Pata by Miriam Makeba

0:42:060:42:08

And give me a spin...

0:42:100:42:12

While most of the sewers are fitting using their final fabric...

0:42:120:42:15

I think...we'll be fine.

0:42:150:42:17

That's so much better.

0:42:170:42:19

..after struggling in the first two challenges...

0:42:190:42:21

You want the fitting to just look absolutely stunning.

0:42:210:42:25

..Jade is now taking extra precautions.

0:42:250:42:28

Are you fitting with the lining?

0:42:280:42:29

I'm going to fit with the lining in case it needs taking in,

0:42:290:42:33

because if I cut it out in the actual fabric and it needs taking in

0:42:330:42:36

then the pattern match won't match.

0:42:360:42:38

Jade's fully lined knee-length dress

0:42:380:42:40

will be boned at the bodice

0:42:400:42:42

and have a waterfall pleated peplum.

0:42:420:42:45

So this is one continuous piece going all the way round, or...?

0:42:450:42:48

-Well, I've actually cut it out in the lining...

-Let's have a look.

0:42:480:42:51

So that one, obviously, is at the front,

0:42:510:42:54

but it's got the pleats in,

0:42:540:42:56

-so it will be more gathered.

-Yeah.

0:42:560:42:58

And then you attach the fuller one on to it, which then obviously...

0:42:580:43:02

-Cascades.

-..goes down your bum.

0:43:020:43:04

Fitting a peplum to a standard dress is hard enough...

0:43:040:43:08

So, basically, that will go like so.

0:43:080:43:11

Because that's curved and this is straight, as you fit it,

0:43:110:43:14

it will make it stick out.

0:43:140:43:15

Can you see? It's, like, filling a bit?

0:43:150:43:17

But with a bold pattern...

0:43:170:43:19

I'm just attaching the peplum to the bodice.

0:43:190:43:22

..it's even harder.

0:43:220:43:23

I'm not finding it terribly easy to pattern match.

0:43:230:43:26

Because I'm quite fussy, I like to get it right,

0:43:260:43:30

but, um, sometimes perfection just takes so much time.

0:43:300:43:35

-Josh? How are you feeling?

-Ask me again when I'm on the skirt.

0:43:350:43:39

-Have you not started the skirt?

-It won't take me too long.

0:43:390:43:43

My dress isn't going to have a peplum. It's going to have a ruffle.

0:43:440:43:47

All of this fabric... which is quite long,

0:43:470:43:50

is going to be gathered around the waste.

0:43:500:43:52

Charlotte's gathered ruffle

0:43:520:43:54

will flow from a fitted bodice

0:43:540:43:56

into a pencil skirt.

0:43:560:43:57

-How is it?

-Good! I'm really pleased with it.

-Lots and lots of gathering.

0:43:570:44:01

-Oh, a boatload of gathering.

-You're making a curtain.

0:44:010:44:03

Tell me again why you chose to do this as a gathered rectangle,

0:44:030:44:06

rather than a gathered...

0:44:060:44:08

I wanted a lot of volume, a really, really huge amount.

0:44:080:44:11

-You're getting lots of volume here.

-Yes.

0:44:110:44:13

But not necessarily any more volume at the end.

0:44:130:44:16

It hopefully will sit nicely once it's finished.

0:44:160:44:19

It's sort of hard to tell at the moment.

0:44:190:44:21

It's going to be great, I'm sure.

0:44:210:44:23

-I'm glad we had a chair.

-Somehow you can say that...

0:44:230:44:25

-and still make me terrified.

-I don't know why.

0:44:250:44:28

-Something...

-It's something about the way you say it, I think.

0:44:280:44:32

Just imagine I've said it differently.

0:44:320:44:34

-(He hates the ruffle.)

-Really?

-I can't do anything else.

0:44:360:44:39

I can't change my plan now.

0:44:390:44:41

I couldn't go and draft a peplum and stick that on.

0:44:410:44:43

I'm halfway through sticking this on.

0:44:430:44:45

Rumana has also committed to something a little different.

0:44:450:44:48

They're probably going to get a lot of peplums,

0:44:480:44:50

so I've actually not gone for that.

0:44:500:44:52

Instead, I've gone for a cape to go with the dress.

0:44:520:44:56

Rumana's cape will be double layered

0:44:560:44:58

and split down the middle.

0:44:580:45:00

It'll cover her full-length,

0:45:000:45:01

fitted sheath dress.

0:45:010:45:03

My cape's big. It's structured.

0:45:030:45:05

I think using a double layer has given a bit more body to it.

0:45:050:45:08

So far, so happy.

0:45:080:45:10

How much time do we have?

0:45:100:45:12

One hour left!

0:45:120:45:13

I'm just trying to work out the best way to attach a peplum

0:45:140:45:18

that's actually in four different sections.

0:45:180:45:21

It's not quite as easy as just, you know,

0:45:210:45:23

putting a peplum on the bottom of a dress,

0:45:230:45:25

because I need each four sections to match up perfectly.

0:45:250:45:29

I mean, at this point it looks like most of them are going to finish.

0:45:310:45:34

I'll check that it fits you.

0:45:340:45:35

Really, this challenges boils down to how well they've fitted them.

0:45:350:45:38

-Yes.

-Not just how well they've sewn them.

0:45:380:45:40

It's not something I'm used to doing.

0:45:400:45:42

I don't tend to make things very fitted for myself.

0:45:420:45:45

Some people are quite crooked.

0:45:450:45:47

Well, most people have one shoulder higher than the other

0:45:470:45:50

and one bosom bigger than the other.

0:45:500:45:52

-Is that right?

-That is right, yes.

-I wouldn't know anything about that.

0:45:520:45:55

No, of course you wouldn't.

0:45:550:45:57

So let me check I've got it level.

0:45:570:45:59

I'll take a little bit off the front. That might make a difference.

0:45:590:46:02

This peplum can come up a bit more, you know.

0:46:020:46:04

I managed to take it in a little bit on one of the seams,

0:46:040:46:08

which has given me a little bit more snugness around the waist.

0:46:080:46:11

It's better than it was.

0:46:110:46:13

With the skirt attached to it,

0:46:130:46:15

I need to bring it up a fraction more

0:46:150:46:17

to fit as I would like it to fit.

0:46:170:46:19

OK, so that's fine...

0:46:200:46:21

As they make changes, hoping to achieve a perfect fit...

0:46:210:46:24

Stop, stop, stop. Yep. A bit more.

0:46:240:46:28

..the sewers still need to ensure their patterns

0:46:280:46:30

match across the seams they're adjusting.

0:46:300:46:33

Moment of truth.

0:46:330:46:35

I'm hoping that the judges will pick up on the fact

0:46:350:46:37

that I've tried to match all the way across,

0:46:370:46:40

regardless of whether it's on a curve or not.

0:46:400:46:43

Look at that, right there. The lines practically match.

0:46:430:46:48

Across there.

0:46:480:46:50

Sewers, you have 30 minutes left.

0:46:500:46:52

Back's collapsing. I would have a look at it.

0:46:570:47:00

My cape is done. I'm just pressing it.

0:47:030:47:05

I'm going to attach some straps to my dress.

0:47:050:47:08

Patrick noticed there was a bit of fullness in the back.

0:47:080:47:11

Put it on me.

0:47:110:47:12

-That is beautiful!

-Do you think?

0:47:140:47:16

-I need to do the back.

-I feel like a superhero.

0:47:170:47:21

Josh, how are you?

0:47:210:47:23

-I'm all right, yeah, how are you?

-Yeah, it's working.

0:47:230:47:26

See if it removes the fullness.

0:47:260:47:29

That feel OK?

0:47:290:47:30

You have four minutes left, everybody.

0:47:310:47:34

Every time, down to the last seconds.

0:47:340:47:36

Hello, gathered bottom.

0:47:390:47:41

Oh, my hook's not staying.

0:47:410:47:42

Do you want to come over here? Quick, quick, quick.

0:47:420:47:45

Fits her, stunningly.

0:47:450:47:47

So happy.

0:47:520:47:53

Today was just literally to prove myself to the judges.

0:47:530:47:57

Come out, come out. Ha! Ha-ha!

0:47:570:48:00

I love it. I am so happy with the fit. Turn around, turn around.

0:48:000:48:04

One minute, sewers!

0:48:040:48:06

On your arm.

0:48:070:48:08

You look amazing!

0:48:100:48:12

I think the ruffle is excellent

0:48:120:48:14

and I don't care if Patrick doesn't like it.

0:48:140:48:16

Let me know if you need me to zip you up.

0:48:160:48:18

Oh, you look gorgeous!

0:48:210:48:24

OK, sewers, that is the end of the challenge.

0:48:240:48:27

You have to walk away from Angeline.

0:48:280:48:30

Blimey.

0:48:300:48:32

Finished! Finished! I have finished!

0:48:320:48:36

-I did it! Oh, my God.

-Are you so happy?

0:48:360:48:38

MUSIC: Nylon Dress by Steven Amechi and his Empire Rhythm Skies

0:48:380:48:42

The overall impression I'm getting is that it doesn't fit very well.

0:48:530:48:58

And also...quite baggy here.

0:48:580:49:00

-I agree with Esme. I can take in six inches around the waist...

-Yeah.

0:49:010:49:04

..without it being really close.

0:49:040:49:06

-You've lined your peplum.

-It's very crisp and even around the hem.

0:49:070:49:12

There's a lot of good, crisp stuff.

0:49:120:49:13

I think it's just the fitting really lets it down.

0:49:130:49:17

-Well, I think yours does have a wow factor, don't you?

-Yes.

0:49:260:49:30

-THEY LAUGH

-I love your nervous face!

0:49:300:49:32

What really works well is the scale of the peplum

0:49:320:49:35

compared to the skirt.

0:49:350:49:36

You're the only person with a peplum

0:49:360:49:38

-that's longer than the skirt underneath it.

-Exactly.

0:49:380:49:40

And because you've lined it, we can see absolutely all of that

0:49:400:49:43

movement in the peplum, which is really impactful.

0:49:430:49:46

-But the one thing is, you've hoiked it up with the straps...

-Yeah.

0:49:460:49:50

..so it's not falling down,

0:49:500:49:52

but actually it's still too long in the body.

0:49:520:49:55

But I think the choker brings the whole thing together.

0:49:550:49:58

It has definitely got impact.

0:49:580:50:00

-It has terrific impact.

-Yes.

0:50:090:50:11

You've thought about the motif very carefully,

0:50:110:50:14

but it's just a little bulky round the tummy.

0:50:140:50:18

There's just too much of it in the middle. Do you agree or disagree?

0:50:180:50:22

Um, I'm actually more concerned about the darts. They're quite high.

0:50:220:50:27

-Oh, really?

-That is gaping, there. And this side's not fitting great.

0:50:270:50:32

-Can we have a look at the zip?

-So you've matched that there.

-No.

0:50:320:50:35

-Slightly off.

-Fractionally, fractionally off.

0:50:350:50:38

It's a shame because that bit's perfect.

0:50:380:50:40

-THEY LAUGH

-Yeah, it is!

0:50:400:50:42

-I think I like it.

-Yes.

0:50:520:50:54

-It's quite dramatic, isn't it?

-It is, isn't it?

0:50:540:50:56

No peplums, no ruffles, no trains, but there's drama.

0:50:560:51:02

I don't actually understand why you didn't just sew this up.

0:51:020:51:06

-Because you could have put this over the head.

-That's true.

0:51:060:51:09

It does have a really nice hourglass shape to it.

0:51:090:51:11

Actually, the dress itself is very flattering.

0:51:110:51:14

-There's quite a saucy bit on this.

-Yes.

-Which is here.

0:51:140:51:18

-Yes.

-So you see a tiny bit of bosom.

-I like it.

0:51:180:51:23

-I do.

-Why are you so shocked at liking my sewing?!

0:51:230:51:25

Well, I don't know - cos I've never seen anything quite like it before.

0:51:250:51:28

It's like something from another planet.

0:51:280:51:30

Never mind another country.

0:51:300:51:32

-But I think it works.

-It does indeed.

0:51:320:51:34

MUSIC: Fire Fire Fire by Ebenezer Calender & His Maringer Band

0:51:340:51:39

I think the overall impression of the dress is very stunning.

0:51:440:51:47

-The peplum's great.

-Thank you.

0:51:470:51:51

Definitely has a wow factor, but it's a little bit too tight.

0:51:510:51:54

-Can you see how it's pulling over here?

-Yeah.

0:51:550:51:58

I also think it's a bit too low here.

0:51:580:52:01

You did match it at the front.

0:52:010:52:03

-I did, yeah.

-Give you credit for doing that.

-Thank you.

0:52:030:52:07

I think, overall, it's crisply finished, the straps are neat.

0:52:070:52:11

-I just think it's a little bit snug here and it's a bit low here.

-OK.

0:52:110:52:15

Your pattern is jarring.

0:52:250:52:27

We've got a triangle then we've just got a smidge,

0:52:270:52:29

then we've got half a smidge, then almost a whole triangle.

0:52:290:52:32

You've run it really nicely down the centre,

0:52:320:52:35

but by the side of it is actually a white triangle,

0:52:350:52:38

whereas this is a black triangle.

0:52:380:52:40

-I feel it's a bit long in the back. Can you see this?

-Yeah.

0:52:400:52:44

It's quite lumpy here. There's one other thing. It's got a real curve.

0:52:440:52:50

Turn round. And I think this side might be worse. Yes.

0:52:500:52:54

-Something's gone wrong over the hip.

-Can you see?

-Yeah.

0:52:540:52:57

It's got a curve here, so it's almost like you took it in here,

0:52:570:53:01

but you didn't take it far enough down.

0:53:010:53:03

Instead of going in, out, in, out, it goes in, out, lump, in, out.

0:53:030:53:09

Which is really obvious. It's a real shame, actually.

0:53:090:53:13

-It's very crisp, very neat.

-It looks really well fitted.

0:53:240:53:28

This is all flat here. It's nice on the waist.

0:53:290:53:33

The seams look lovely and flat.

0:53:330:53:35

I think the fit, you've got that lovely hourglass shape to it.

0:53:350:53:38

-It's not too tight.

-No.

0:53:380:53:41

I also like the lining you did.

0:53:410:53:44

I wish there had been more of it...

0:53:440:53:47

-Sorry.

-..so we had a bit more va-voom there.

0:53:470:53:49

I think, overall, the whole thing works extremely well.

0:53:490:53:52

Oh, thank you so much.

0:53:520:53:53

Well done to all of you.

0:53:550:53:57

International Week, by far my favourite.

0:53:570:54:01

Go and have a bun and a group hug.

0:54:010:54:04

When you come back, the judges will announce the Garment Of The Week

0:54:040:54:06

and the person who will be leaving the Sewing Room.

0:54:060:54:10

I've never sewn with an African wax print before.

0:54:140:54:17

Love the fabric and really enjoyed making it.

0:54:170:54:20

I think the judges will have a really tough decision today,

0:54:200:54:22

cos there are a few people had a bad day yesterday

0:54:220:54:24

but they've done better today.

0:54:240:54:26

I'm not ready to go home.

0:54:260:54:27

I want to stay here and keep fighting and learning.

0:54:270:54:29

Sometimes you want to just be, like, "You know what? Stuff it."

0:54:290:54:32

Chuck the whole thing and just walk out.

0:54:320:54:34

But I don't want to go home yet.

0:54:340:54:37

Can we just remind ourselves of the beginning of the day?

0:54:370:54:40

The people in the bottom were Jade and Joyce.

0:54:400:54:43

Joyce's dress is in contention for Garment Of The Week,

0:54:430:54:46

so I think Joyce has pulled herself right out

0:54:460:54:49

of all discussion on leaving the Sewing Bee.

0:54:490:54:52

-In a nutshell...

-Yes.

0:54:520:54:53

..it boils down to a decision between Josh and Jade.

0:54:530:54:56

Josh did have a good first day,

0:54:560:54:58

-but this wasn't a successful Made-to-measure Challenge.

-No.

0:54:580:55:01

It really wasn't.

0:55:010:55:02

It's really badly made, I have to say.

0:55:020:55:05

You know, this lump here, on the side, look, that is bad, bad sewing.

0:55:050:55:10

Jade, by contrast, had a poor first day,

0:55:100:55:12

but I think this was one of our better Made-to-measure Challenges.

0:55:120:55:16

The peplum's fabulous, but it wasn't lined,

0:55:160:55:19

which would have emphasised that.

0:55:190:55:21

I think you might have a genuinely impossible task.

0:55:210:55:25

-I don't think it's a straightforward one, at all.

-OK.

0:55:250:55:29

Well, we'll leave you to it and we'll bring them in.

0:55:290:55:31

A huge well done to all of you. Look at you, holding hands, a bit wobbly.

0:55:360:55:42

Let's not do the bad bit, let's do the good bit.

0:55:420:55:44

So, our Garment Of The Week this week...

0:55:440:55:47

is...this one.

0:55:470:55:50

The infuriating Joyce! I mean, it's beautiful.

0:55:540:55:57

It's crisply sewn, it was a beautiful fit.

0:55:570:56:01

-Oh, thank you so much.

-I've never seen anyone so shocked!

0:56:010:56:05

-Thank you.

-And now the less lovely bit.

0:56:050:56:08

We would like everyone to stay in forever and ever and ever,

0:56:080:56:10

but unfortunately somebody's got to leave the sewing bee

0:56:100:56:14

and the judges took a long time, deliberated, chatted,

0:56:140:56:18

and the person who is leaving is...

0:56:180:56:22

-..is Josh.

-Oh!

-I'm sorry!

0:56:280:56:32

-Josh!

-I know.

-Oh, Josh, I'm sorry.

0:56:320:56:35

I've learnt so much from everyone and they're all so open to teaching

0:56:390:56:43

and to helping and I think without the help of some of them,

0:56:430:56:45

I probably wouldn't have made it through the first week,

0:56:450:56:48

let alone to week four.

0:56:480:56:49

It's been fantastic having him here,

0:56:490:56:51

and it's great for him to learn all sorts of new things.

0:56:510:56:55

I'm sure, when he leaves,

0:56:550:56:57

he'll be more adventurous in what he makes.

0:56:570:57:00

Well done. Honestly. You've been fantastic. Such a lovely guy.

0:57:000:57:03

He's so enthusiastic. But I think this was just his week.

0:57:030:57:07

I'm so shocked. I honestly thought it was me.

0:57:070:57:09

I think it was a difficult decision to choose between Jade

0:57:090:57:12

and Josh, but Jade's Made-to-measure was really very good.

0:57:120:57:17

I'm so relieved that they didn't say, "Jade",

0:57:170:57:19

that I can prove myself next week

0:57:190:57:21

and I'm going to put absolutely everything I've got into it.

0:57:210:57:24

Good luck, girls, eh?

0:57:240:57:25

I thought I was on the way out today.

0:57:260:57:29

I'll celebrate with my husband Hugh tonight

0:57:290:57:31

and, do you know, I think we've got a bottle of champagne in the house.

0:57:310:57:35

I'm really happy that I've got through, but...

0:57:350:57:38

I absolutely hate that when somebody has to go.

0:57:380:57:41

Coming into the competition, I thought that, you know,

0:57:410:57:44

it's a competition and people are there for one reason,

0:57:440:57:47

but you're really not. You're not.

0:57:470:57:50

Doesn't matter, you know, what stretch of life,

0:57:500:57:53

what your background is, how long you've been sewing for.

0:57:530:57:56

You can learn and you can learn very quickly

0:57:560:57:58

as long as you apply yourself and I hope that I've proved that

0:57:580:58:01

to the judges as well as to people that are watching.

0:58:010:58:04

Next time...

0:58:060:58:08

I'm too young for this.

0:58:080:58:09

..the sewers take a step back...

0:58:090:58:10

Super groovy.

0:58:100:58:12

..into the swinging '60s.

0:58:120:58:14

Sex, drugs and rock and roll.

0:58:140:58:15

They tackle dated machines...

0:58:150:58:18

Oh, this is weird, man.

0:58:180:58:19

..get groovy with PVC...

0:58:190:58:21

I wouldn't wear that stuff if you paid me.

0:58:210:58:23

..and glamorous with vintage patterns.

0:58:230:58:25

-We're birthing.

-We're birthing.

0:58:250:58:27

But who will get Garment Of The Week?

0:58:270:58:29

Magic!

0:58:290:58:30

And who will be the next to leave?

0:58:300:58:31

There's a black hole in the corner of the room,

0:58:310:58:33

-sucking all the time into it.

-I call it Patrick!

0:58:330:58:35

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