1960s Week The Great British Sewing Bee


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1960s Week

Sewing competition. The sewing room is transported back to the 1960s as the six remaining sewers try to prove they deserve a place in the quarter-finals.


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As we reach our halfway point,

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it's all bell-bottoms, miniskirts and hot pants,

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just a few of the iconic garments

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that made the 1960s the golden age of home sewing.

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Welcome to The Great British Sewing Bee.

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Last time - The Sewing Bee took a trip around the world.

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I'd love to wear something very similar.

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Tracey took top spot...

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twice.

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I think I'm getting the hang of this now.

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Joyce took a detour with her pattern.

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Isn't that more interesting?

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It's not what we asked for.

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But her made-to-measure dress was a one-way ticket...

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It's very crisp, very neat.

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It looks really well fitted.

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..to garment of the week.

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For Josh, it was the end of the road...

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Something has gone wrong over the hip.

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..leaving the women to fight it out for a quarterfinal place.

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This week, the sewers step back in time...

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What was it like in the '60s?

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Sex, drugs and rock and roll.

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..reviving iconic garments...

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Magic.

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..using time-honoured techniques...

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I'm too young for this.

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..vintage patterns...

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If Elvis wore it, it's good enough for me.

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..and space-age fabrics.

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It's just really yucky.

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But with the judges more exacting than ever...

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I'm going to grab a ruler.

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..will the whiff of nostalgia...

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I'm hoping today does her justice, she would have liked doing this.

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..put a swing in their step?

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You saucy minx.

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Or will the '60s be a decade they'd rather leave firmly in the past?

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I'm OK.

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MUSIC: Get Ready by The Temptations

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There are six women left.

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Go, girls, go.

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My plans for this week is to follow the instructions

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to the subatomic particle.

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I loved the 1960s fashion, so I'm very excited about this week.

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I'm hoping they're not going to bring out a 1960s sewing machine.

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Good morning, sewers.

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-Morning.

-Gather around.

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Congratulations, you have made it to the halfway point.

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-Amazing.

-This week is all about the 1960s.

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For your first challenge, the pattern challenge,

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the judges have given you vintage machines.

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What do you think?

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-Love them.

-Joyce very happy.

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Good. All right.

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Esme, what have you got for them?

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Here you are. This is one of the most iconic garments of the '60s.

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It's a shift dress,

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a shift dress might sound simple, but it's colour-blocked,

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made of 14 pieces.

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THEY GASP

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So we are looking for construction using very crisp, clean lines,

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and we want well-balanced blocks of colour

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to create something resembling

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a work of art.

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You have three hours 45 minutes, your time starts now.

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-They are off.

-That's the one I want.

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All the sewers are using cotton sateen fabric,

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but which shades they select will have a huge impact on the success of

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their colour-block dress.

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I've got white and orange and minty.

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That's boring.

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This complex 1960s pattern will test who has the

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skills and sewing knowledge to adapt to vintage techniques.

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I don't know a huge amount about the '60s.

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My family were back in Bangladesh, actually, in the '60s.

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I sewed, in the '60s, flared trousers.

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Miniskirts.

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It was a long time ago.

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Both my grannies sewed in the '60s.

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They would be so proud of me right now.

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I was born in the 1960s,

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but I remember my mum wearing this kind of shift dress.

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I wasn't invented until 1998.

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I mainly know about the '60s from the film Hairspray.

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And things like that, I know it's not exactly like the '60s.

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Judges, why the '60s?

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Well, it was a really good moment for home sewing.

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It was post-war, people had more money,

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you could buy an electric domestic sewing machine.

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This is probably one of the most iconic dresses there is.

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The whole point of this dress is it's crisp blocks of colour.

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It is kind of a stained-glass window.

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And this is the lead, and we need these to be distinctly contrasting

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with the panels on either side.

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Now, what colours they choose and where they place them

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will have a big impact on the look of the dress.

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I'm hoping that their personalities

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will come out in the colours they choose.

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Oh, this is not a normal shift dress,

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this is a shift dress made of 1,000 pieces.

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To create the front of the dress,

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five blocks of colour are stitched to four thinner panel pieces.

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It's then joined to the back,

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which is shaped with two darts and fastened with a zip.

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I have to ask you this, after last week's pattern challenge...

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I'm doing it by the book.

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Pencil out, soon as I've gone past one, tick it.

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-On to the next.

-Good girl.

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What colours have you chosen?

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-Take a look.

-Oh, my goodness.

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I think that will be fantastic.

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I think when you're working with colour sometimes

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it's about thinking what are opposites on the colour wheel.

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So purple and yellow would be opposites on the colour wheel.

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So that'll make the two really stand out.

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I prefer that down there,

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but I don't want the yellow next to the orange.

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And that looks too heavy to me.

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Of course there's endless, endless variations.

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But one will work. This is the funny thing.

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We spend a really long time just staring at bits of fabric next to

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one another in exactly the position of the colour and the size of the piece,

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it makes a huge difference to the look of the garment.

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It's going to be quite bright and vibrant,

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which is what the '60s is all about.

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I think if you're given an opportunity to do a block dress, just go mad,

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just take as many colours as you can.

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-JADE:

-I'm giving you a black, white and grey dress.

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So, in colour-block challenge,

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you're giving us nothing but monochrome.

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Exactly.

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I've taken these off. This is the top.

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Now the pattern pieces are all cut out,

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the front of the dress can begin to be assembled.

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Stitch panels one and two and three together.

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I'm going to stitch up here.

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The 1960s' domestic electric sewing machines are much more basic

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than the modern-day ones.

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Oh, this is weird.

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What is going on here?

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They are slower...

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I've got my foot down on the pedal, nothing is happening.

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..more fiddly...

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and only do a simple straight or zigzag stitch.

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I'm too young for this.

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Joyce, is mine broke?

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OK. You've got it on the wrong way.

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Hold on, hold on. Put your foot on there.

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It's a bit stiff.

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It's OK, I used a machine like that when I was younger.

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What section is that?

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That's your booby bit.

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That's the stuff for there.

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-They are my colours.

-Exactly.

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-My colours!

-They're my colours as well.

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Get this, get this, while I'm here,

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I'm going to use this as a fake microphone.

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Sewers, you have had one hour.

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One hour, I have not even started sewing anything yet.

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"With right sides together, matching your notches..."

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Stitch this white one onto here.

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The dividing border between the colour blocks

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must be exactly 1.5 inches wide

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and perfectly parallel.

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That bit's straight.

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-Straight across the middle.

-Like that?

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Yes.

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-PATRICK:

-This challenge is all about accuracy, and already it is off at the top.

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You know, you've got like a big strip running right down the middle.

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If it deviates, it will be so visible.

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They want precision, they'll get precision.

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The '60s to me...

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I was a screaming girl.

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And... I mean, do you remember Marty Wilde?

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He's got a daughter, Kim Wilde.

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She sings, and I remember going to see him, all sorts of local stars,

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it was just brilliant. But Elvis was my favourite.

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You were either Elvis or Cliff Richard, and I was Elvis.

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Oh, I had all his records and posters on the wall.

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-Joyce?

-Yes.

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What was it like in the '60s?

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Sex, drugs and rock and roll.

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Brilliant.

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MUSIC: A Little Less Conversation by Elvis Presley

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-Magic.

-That looks like the front of a dress to me.

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-Hello.

-Hello.

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-How are you getting on?

-Yes, not too bad.

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So far, so good, I think.

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Oh. I've done it the wrong way round.

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You've got this back to front.

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You've mirrored the front.

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How did you manage that?

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I don't know.

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Pattern challenge is about following the pattern.

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I just picked it up wrong.

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Are you undoing it, Angeline?

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There's no time to go back and rectify it.

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Well, couldn't you just kick yourself?

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The colour-block dress is arguably the ultimate '60s garment.

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Emerging from this melting pot of a decade where haute couture, art,

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home sewing and pop culture collided to create a fashion icon.

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The '60s saw the rise of the teenager,

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as young people sought to distance themselves from the older generation.

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The 1960s, it was like lights, camera, action.

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Suddenly everything changed.

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You had new music, you had pop art, everything was different.

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And it was so exciting

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that the clothes had to be completely different.

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One of the most famous designers

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to respond to the changing times was Yves Saint Laurent.

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He used a classic shift dress as a canvas

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to display his love of modernist art.

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These dresses were inspired by a number of different modern painters,

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but specifically a Dutch painter called Mondrian,

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hence the name of the collection.

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And he puts it together in what is the illusion of a very simple dress.

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It's very straight, it's got an A-line skirt to it,

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but it is an incredibly complex dress to put together.

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He put the seams where the lines are,

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so it looks like a completely seamless dress.

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Only a few people could afford such a covetable couture garment.

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But with home sewing enjoying a resurgence,

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this was a market Yves Saint Laurent was quick to embrace.

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Usually couture fashion was a very secretive art,

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and people just had to copy it from what they saw in magazines.

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Yves Saint Laurent brought out the dress,

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but also brought out a pattern.

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The home dressmaker could actually have the exact Mondrian dress.

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And Yves Saint Laurent went so far as to actually include

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little dress labels you could sew into your dress,

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so that you could feel like you had a couture dress.

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Yves Saint Laurent had made haute couture accessible to all.

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And as a result, his dresses remained

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a much-loved icon of '60s home sewing.

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Sewers, you have 45 minutes left to create colour-block '60s dresses.

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Right, start on the back.

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Pin and sew the double ended, or fish-eye darts,

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matching up the marks from the pattern.

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I'm inserting darts.

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Because my back is yellow,

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I've had to change the colour of the thread to yellow.

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I need to really pull something out of the bag here.

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Like Angeline, Joyce and Charlotte are matching their thread colour to

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their blocks of fabric.

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The others, however, have gone for a different design approach.

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Blue and yellow. I like the contrast of it.

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Are you guys changing the colour of your thread?

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-I haven't.

-You're just going to have grey on black?

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-Yeah.

-Grey on black.

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Sewers, you only have half an hour left on this '60s pattern challenge.

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-Jade, what colour zip?

-That mint green.

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Putting in the zip will be one of the scariest parts

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of the pattern.

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One feature of this dress that our sewers may struggle with

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is this zip.

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This is what we call a lapped zip.

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A slim lap of fabric that sits over the top.

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We want this lap so it's not only covering the zip,

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it's covering the top stitching.

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If it's not right, is it possible for them to do it again?

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Well, if it's not right, they should do it again.

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OK. Just an idea.

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SHE LAUGHS

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Slide the zip into the opening with the teeth facing up.

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It's a hard thing to do, this zip.

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Have you ever created a lapped zip?

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-I haven't.

-I feel bad I'm being a bother, but that is my job.

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Doing the overlap. This is the fiddly bit.

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Oh, dear me.

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So you've put your zip in.

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-I have.

-The only thing is, we can see the stitching.

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Esme wasn't terribly happy with my zip.

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So what I'm doing, I'm doing it again.

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I'm unpicking just because the zip won't close.

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I feel sorry for the people in the '60s.

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I think I'm having trouble getting it up.

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-So I think I'm going to undo it.

-I think you're going to have to...

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No good if you can't get it up or down.

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It defeats the object of the zip.

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Oh, it is horrible.

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I just realised I'm not doing the right kind of lap zip.

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You're supposed to have it so that the lap completely covers

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your line of stitching.

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This is going badly wrong.

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-Did you hear that, Rumana?

-What?

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I was doing the wrong kind of zip.

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-I was doing a centre zip.

-That's what I was doing.

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Read the instructions.

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Oh, shoot.

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Yes.

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-Did you do the right zip?

-Yes.

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Oh, disaster.

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Sewers, you have ten minutes left.

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Ten minutes, are you joking?

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-Ten minutes.

-Ten minutes to go.

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Oh, hating it.

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Oh, sugar. I wish I hadn't touched the zip.

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It's not so good. Oh, blow.

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Do you know what they're going to say to us? "Read the instructions."

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But we did.

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You've got five minutes left.

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Oh, man.

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-How are you, Joyce?

-I just want a bit of orange thread to do the hem.

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I'm using white thread for my hem

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because I just don't have time to change it.

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Three minutes.

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My machine has come unthreaded now. Oh, that's all I need!

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Two minutes, then we need your dresses on the mannequins.

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Doom. Doom.

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30 seconds left.

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Well done, Rumana.

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Charlotte.

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That is it, that is time.

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Angeline, now!

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Oh, it's on.

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Let's bring up your mannequins to the judges.

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Man, that was awful.

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Come up. Come up.

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Six 1960s colour-block dresses

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in just three and three quarter hours.

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But what will Patrick and Esme think?

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Joyce, you are up first.

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I'm going to grab a ruler.

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Oh, God.

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This challenge is all about precision.

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And everywhere we look, these bands are absolutely spot on.

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And I really like the fact you've used orange thread.

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The right colour of thread on your top stitching

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is absolutely critical to making it look precise.

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Talk about the zip, shall we?

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It looks pretty good to me.

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It's perfectly even all the way up.

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I put it in three times.

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You may have had to do three times,

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but at least on the final go it looks right.

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And I also think the colour combination is really good.

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-Were you copying me?

-I wasn't, promise!

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We have the royal colours of Sweden.

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Oh, I didn't realise that.

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I'm not overwhelmed by this.

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The big issue for me, really, is the zip.

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It was a big issue for me as well!

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-Well, yes.

-You've put the lap the other way round.

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And also the fact you've used yellow top stitching doesn't work for me.

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-Really does let you down.

-Yes.

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I like the monochrome.

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I think it has impact.

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But it's not fabulously sewn.

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I'm going to grab my stick.

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One and 7/16 there.

0:17:320:17:35

12/16 there.

0:17:360:17:37

It's a bit off.

0:17:370:17:39

It's just a little bit wider here than it is there.

0:17:390:17:41

I know you wanted to do contrast,

0:17:410:17:43

but, for me, it doesn't actually work.

0:17:430:17:46

The zip is not great.

0:17:460:17:47

I mean, obviously the step at the top we'd see.

0:17:470:17:50

But if this was black, it wouldn't look half as messy.

0:17:500:17:53

The one thing that is clear

0:18:030:18:05

is that you've put these panels the wrong way round,

0:18:050:18:09

so you've mirrored the front of the dress.

0:18:090:18:11

-It's just not what the pattern asked for.

-Yeah.

0:18:110:18:14

But actually, it's pretty neatly sewn.

0:18:140:18:16

This zip is not bad at all.

0:18:160:18:19

You've changed your top stitching threads,

0:18:190:18:21

so you've used white on the front and yellow on the back.

0:18:210:18:24

There is one thing for me, this white band at the bottom.

0:18:240:18:28

What it does visually, it makes it look like the dress stops here.

0:18:280:18:31

It's just a visual thing.

0:18:310:18:33

They are not the punchy primary colours that everybody has gone for,

0:18:430:18:47

but actually they do work extremely well together.

0:18:470:18:49

-How did you find putting...

-I really struggled with the zip.

0:18:490:18:52

Here the zip has covered over this top stitching.

0:18:520:18:55

But when we get to here, this is narrower,

0:18:550:18:59

the lap over, and it's not covering the top stitching on this side.

0:18:590:19:03

Also you have done a white top stitching on a mint green.

0:19:030:19:08

Just not crisply finished.

0:19:080:19:10

More than anyone,

0:19:180:19:19

I think you sat and planned where your colours were all going to go

0:19:190:19:23

and you moved them around.

0:19:230:19:25

And I think the result is absolutely spot-on.

0:19:250:19:28

There's nothing that interrupts the sharp edges of all these blocks,

0:19:280:19:32

which is exactly what we want.

0:19:320:19:34

Self colour for the hem, which we like.

0:19:340:19:37

Unfortunately, this side of the zip,

0:19:370:19:40

it's overlapping the actual teeth of the zip.

0:19:400:19:43

And it should be absolutely on the edge there.

0:19:430:19:47

You know what, though? You should be very pleased with that.

0:19:470:19:51

The judges will now rank the '60s dresses from worst to best.

0:19:560:20:00

In sixth place, Tracey.

0:20:020:20:05

-I'm not surprised.

-It wasn't very neat and tidy,

0:20:050:20:07

and we didn't like that contrast.

0:20:070:20:09

In fifth place is Jade.

0:20:090:20:12

The zip wasn't great.

0:20:120:20:13

In fourth place, Angeline.

0:20:130:20:15

Just a shame that you mirrored the front of the dress.

0:20:150:20:17

In third place is Rumana.

0:20:170:20:20

Very nicely done.

0:20:200:20:22

In second place...

0:20:220:20:23

..Charlotte. Fantastically sewn.

0:20:280:20:31

The margin just was in that zip.

0:20:310:20:34

So in first place, Joyce.

0:20:340:20:36

THEY APPLAUD

0:20:360:20:39

The finish was great, it was all very accurate.

0:20:390:20:42

The zip was great.

0:20:420:20:43

Oh, thanks so much.

0:20:430:20:45

Well done to all of you.

0:20:450:20:46

Give yourselves a huge pat on the back.

0:20:460:20:49

When you come back, the '60s alterations challenge.

0:20:490:20:53

Well done.

0:20:530:20:54

I'm thrilled.

0:21:010:21:04

You've got to remember I'm a '60s girl, and I remember those dresses.

0:21:050:21:09

I'm not in the least bit surprised by that judging.

0:21:090:21:12

That zip was the most horrendous thing I've ever done in my life.

0:21:120:21:16

'60s week is going well so far. I'm enjoying it.

0:21:160:21:19

I have no idea what they are going to throw at us for the

0:21:190:21:22

alterations challenge. I can't even begin to imagine.

0:21:220:21:25

Having been tested on a complex pattern,

0:21:260:21:28

now it's all about freeing their minds,

0:21:280:21:31

as the sewers are asked to totally transform a classic '60s garment.

0:21:310:21:35

Welcome back, sewers.

0:21:370:21:38

For your '60s alterations challenge,

0:21:380:21:40

the judges would like you to use a fabric that was all the craze then.

0:21:400:21:45

-Patrick, what have we got?

-We are giving you...

0:21:450:21:48

THEY LAUGH

0:21:480:21:51

PVC raincoat.

0:21:510:21:53

Groovy.

0:21:530:21:54

Actually, one of the very first things I made

0:21:560:21:59

were outfits out of shower curtain fabric.

0:21:590:22:03

OK? Enormous luck.

0:22:030:22:05

You've got 90 minutes.

0:22:050:22:06

You two, go away so you don't know who's made what.

0:22:060:22:09

Your time starts now. Off you go.

0:22:090:22:13

Choose the one you like.

0:22:130:22:14

MUSIC: Shout by Lulu

0:22:140:22:16

Mind if I go for red?

0:22:190:22:21

Do you know what? I want that one.

0:22:220:22:24

-Lilac-y one. Oh, Jesus!

-I might go with this one.

0:22:260:22:29

If you're going to make something ridiculous,

0:22:290:22:31

you might as well make it see-through.

0:22:310:22:33

All right, I'll be wearing those.

0:22:350:22:37

PVC! It's not something I have in my wardrobe!

0:22:370:22:41

This is a great alteration for '60s week.

0:22:420:22:46

Plastic is actually a really difficult fabric to sew.

0:22:460:22:50

It doesn't handle at all like a normal fabric.

0:22:500:22:52

-It's not a woven.

-It can tear.

0:22:520:22:55

So these are yours.

0:22:550:22:56

-Yes.

-This is... This was a shower curtain, is that right?

0:22:560:22:59

-Exactly.

-It still has that shower curtain feel to it,

0:22:590:23:04

but you can top-stitch it,

0:23:040:23:06

you can dart it and put snaps onto it, you can gather it.

0:23:060:23:10

I'm hoping they're going to give us something graphic,

0:23:100:23:13

something pop, but something wearable.

0:23:130:23:16

I had a little yellow coat with a matching sou'wester hat.

0:23:160:23:19

I sweated like Billy-o in it.

0:23:190:23:21

Can you imagine when I went to the Roxy in that?

0:23:210:23:24

I'm just going to cut and see where it takes me.

0:23:270:23:30

-It's nice to cut.

-No hemming required.

0:23:310:23:34

I'm trying to take some sort of inspiration from Esme.

0:23:340:23:39

It's going to be a bit risque,

0:23:390:23:41

but Esme was very daring with her designs.

0:23:410:23:43

I know she's probably looking for something really out there.

0:23:430:23:46

-OK.

-What I wanted to do...

0:23:460:23:48

One shoulder! Look already how chic that is!

0:23:480:23:51

I might do a cut-out of another fabric, maybe black.

0:23:510:23:54

I feel I need to put my rain hood on.

0:23:540:23:57

My God!

0:23:580:23:59

Finally, everything makes sense.

0:23:590:24:01

What I'm planning to do is turn it back to front,

0:24:010:24:06

so that the buttons go down the back and make a shift dress,

0:24:060:24:09

put circles underneath.

0:24:090:24:12

Since Esme did a lot of stuff in PVC when she first started,

0:24:120:24:16

hopefully we'll live up to her expectations.

0:24:160:24:18

It's going to be a cut dress and there's going to be a waistband here

0:24:180:24:22

to attach to a boxy skirt and then the buttons are at the back.

0:24:220:24:26

How does somebody wear that?

0:24:260:24:28

-Just here.

-Ring-a-ding-ding!

0:24:280:24:29

I'm going to have a strap round the back that ties in a bow.

0:24:290:24:32

A halterneck top and pleated skirt.

0:24:320:24:35

Something you might want to wear underwear underneath.

0:24:350:24:38

I'm going to make this into a short crop top shirt,

0:24:380:24:43

and then I'm going to turn this into a skirt.

0:24:430:24:46

I think that's great.

0:24:460:24:48

Who doesn't want to lilac see-through PVC crop top?

0:24:480:24:50

Exactly.

0:24:500:24:52

A bit indecent there.

0:24:530:24:55

Whilst most rain macs are getting skimpier by the second...

0:24:550:24:59

I hope it's wearable.

0:24:590:25:00

Less is not more for all the sewers.

0:25:010:25:05

It's an artists' top.

0:25:050:25:07

-A smock.

-A smock top, yes.

0:25:070:25:09

I'm making it a bit wider at the sides.

0:25:090:25:12

I'm going to put nice pockets...

0:25:120:25:14

Like a handyman's pocket?

0:25:140:25:16

-Nice.

-That the brushes go in.

0:25:160:25:17

-Did you wear this?

-I wouldn't wear that stuff if you paid me.

0:25:170:25:21

Sewers, you're halfway through.

0:25:230:25:26

Halfway through PVC transformation challenge.

0:25:260:25:30

It's really sticky, especially when you're panicking in here.

0:25:320:25:35

It's just really yucky,

0:25:350:25:38

and I don't know what it's going to be like to sew.

0:25:380:25:41

I bent my needle.

0:25:410:25:43

It's not easy to sew with.

0:25:430:25:45

Slippery, but then also sticks.

0:25:450:25:48

This stuff is sticky!

0:25:480:25:50

It's terrible.

0:25:510:25:54

I'm just sewing in my circles.

0:25:540:25:57

It stretches slightly as you rotate.

0:25:570:25:59

Definitely one of the weirdest challenges we've had to do.

0:26:010:26:04

I don't know why people think that PVC is sexy.

0:26:040:26:06

It must be the most sweaty, uncomfortable thing to wear in the world.

0:26:060:26:10

If my husband knew I was sewing pink PVC now, he'd go, "Hmmm".

0:26:100:26:13

But he can wear it because I'm not.

0:26:150:26:16

You saucy minx.

0:26:180:26:20

-Joyce.

-Oh, don't!

0:26:200:26:21

Sewers, you only have half an hour left with your raincoats.

0:26:230:26:27

As well as using the original features of the mac...

0:26:270:26:30

-Is that black?

-..the sewers can add to their alterations

0:26:300:26:34

by making use of the haberdashery.

0:26:340:26:36

I'm using the binding just to finish the edges of the PVC.

0:26:360:26:38

It's just to give a wee bit of a splash of colour.

0:26:380:26:41

Trying to make it fitted at the waist.

0:26:410:26:43

I just want to make it really clear -

0:26:430:26:45

this is not something I would sew for myself.

0:26:450:26:47

I'll tell my mum to go out for a cup of tea when this is on.

0:26:470:26:50

I've got this tape and the last bit of the buttons making a pocket

0:26:500:26:53

and putting it on the front.

0:26:530:26:55

Cut out the hole in the middle. Red PVC underneath.

0:26:550:26:59

And those are pockets?

0:26:590:27:00

-Yeah.

-Oh, my gosh, that's adorable.

0:27:000:27:03

Keys. Lip salve.

0:27:030:27:05

Tissues, lip salve, definitely lip salve.

0:27:050:27:07

-You seem relaxed.

-I think so.

0:27:070:27:09

It's not like I've got to put a zip in, is it?

0:27:090:27:12

You'll never do a zip again.

0:27:120:27:14

I'm going to put a zip in it.

0:27:150:27:16

If I put something technical in a hard fabric they might...

0:27:160:27:22

they might like it.

0:27:220:27:24

I'm using only the PVC.

0:27:240:27:27

I want to show the judges what you can do with just a mac.

0:27:270:27:31

Sewers, I have news.

0:27:340:27:37

Ten minutes left.

0:27:370:27:39

Oh, God.

0:27:390:27:41

-Jade, you happy?

-Just adding darts.

0:27:410:27:44

What? Duh, duh, day!

0:27:440:27:47

It's a flower because '60s flower power age.

0:27:470:27:50

They might not like that.

0:27:500:27:52

Yours is cute...in a PVC kind of way.

0:27:520:27:54

That is the most revealing thing I've ever seen in my life.

0:27:540:27:57

Lady Gaga could wear this outfit.

0:27:570:27:58

I think that works. Sometimes you've just got to stop.

0:27:580:28:01

Sewing in some more of my circles.

0:28:010:28:03

-Do I get to announce the time?

-Yes, you're in charge of the time.

0:28:030:28:06

Tell them it's five minutes.

0:28:060:28:08

Five minutes, everyone, and I'm not panicking.

0:28:080:28:10

-Yes!

-Yay!

0:28:100:28:13

Unfortunately, I've got a horizontal seam

0:28:130:28:15

running across the front of my skirt.

0:28:150:28:17

It's fine. We're not looking for perfection.

0:28:170:28:21

Sewers, if your outfit isn't on your mannequin, there will be trouble.

0:28:210:28:26

-No.

-It's all ripped.

0:28:260:28:28

-No, don't say that.

-I'm just going to trim that up a bit.

0:28:280:28:31

Done.

0:28:330:28:34

That is time. Well done, everybody.

0:28:340:28:37

Well done.

0:28:370:28:38

Perfectly decent. Wear that to Sainsbury's.

0:28:380:28:41

-Does it really need to be wearable?

-Come on, Angeline.

0:28:410:28:45

SONG: Je t'aime...mon non plus

0:28:450:28:48

Patrick and Esme have no idea whose alteration is whose.

0:29:010:29:06

-Impressive.

-Yeah.

0:29:060:29:07

Yeah.

0:29:070:29:09

-This is pretty bold.

-Very bold.

0:29:160:29:19

Strangely sort of sexy.

0:29:190:29:20

This must have taken quite a while.

0:29:210:29:23

Grosgrain ribbon behind those cut-outs.

0:29:230:29:26

-Yep.

-I like how it's been gathered in at the top.

0:29:260:29:30

It looks well thought out.

0:29:300:29:32

I think it has an impact to it.

0:29:320:29:34

So, we've got a top and a skirt here.

0:29:390:29:42

The skirt has required quite a bit of re-engineering.

0:29:420:29:44

-Open ended zip.

-That works very well.

0:29:440:29:47

The one thing I like about this, where the darts are,

0:29:470:29:50

you get that four layers of the plastic so it emphasises that shape.

0:29:500:29:55

But actually it's not madly complicated.

0:29:550:29:57

Still got many elements of the mac.

0:29:570:29:59

Very obviously '60s.

0:30:050:30:08

Yes, with the target.

0:30:080:30:09

That target motif was a very big recurring theme

0:30:090:30:13

-in the clothes of that era.

-Yes.

0:30:130:30:15

As was this neckline.

0:30:150:30:17

Also a button back.

0:30:170:30:19

It definitely shows good understanding

0:30:190:30:20

of the clothes of the period.

0:30:200:30:22

-Yeah.

-You don't sound madly enthusiastic.

0:30:220:30:25

I'm not that keen on the shape of it.

0:30:250:30:27

I think it should have been slimmer.

0:30:270:30:29

This one is almost a sort of '50s vibe.

0:30:340:30:38

Yes, it is, yes.

0:30:380:30:39

With a '60s vinyl.

0:30:390:30:41

You could be on the beach in this,

0:30:410:30:42

except you'd probably sweat quite a lot.

0:30:420:30:45

A little dart here to make a shape for the bust.

0:30:450:30:48

-Yep.

-The person has joined two bits together here to get the length.

0:30:480:30:53

I guess it was because they didn't have a long enough piece.

0:30:530:30:56

I would have liked it if the seam had just...

0:30:560:30:58

-Carried on.

-..carried on.

0:30:580:30:59

-I like this.

-I really like it.

0:31:060:31:08

It's got a sort of nerdy sailor look to it.

0:31:080:31:11

-Yes.

-In neon pink.

0:31:110:31:13

Have they turned the front into a pocket?

0:31:130:31:15

Yeah, I think that's very clever.

0:31:150:31:17

They've got... Added a triangle to give it this shape.

0:31:170:31:20

More flair.

0:31:200:31:21

I don't like this pom-pom flower thing here.

0:31:210:31:24

Can we look at the back?

0:31:240:31:26

A-ha. They've thought about the binding to match the button.

0:31:260:31:29

I really like it.

0:31:290:31:31

Blimey.

0:31:310:31:32

Is it '60s?

0:31:380:31:39

Definitely has a touch of the Barbarella about it.

0:31:390:31:42

Yes, yes, it does.

0:31:420:31:43

It's just been split and pulled apart and bound.

0:31:430:31:47

Actually, on the back, why is it crossing over?

0:31:470:31:49

Is that a feature, do you think?

0:31:490:31:51

I think it's a mistake.

0:31:510:31:53

It is imaginative,

0:31:530:31:54

but it's never going to stay on anyone's bosom

0:31:540:31:56

unless they are completely flat-chested.

0:31:560:31:59

I think you need some toupee tape.

0:31:590:32:01

I think you'd need a bit of something.

0:32:010:32:03

Patrick and Esme will now rank the alterations,

0:32:030:32:06

starting with the least successful.

0:32:060:32:09

In sixth place is the white spot.

0:32:090:32:13

That's me.

0:32:130:32:15

I'm quite worried about what's going to happen here.

0:32:150:32:17

Some tit tape. Yeah.

0:32:170:32:19

And maybe a vest!

0:32:190:32:21

In fifth place it is the black polka-dots on the clear,

0:32:210:32:24

the halterneck.

0:32:240:32:26

It's very nice. It's very clear what you were setting out to do,

0:32:260:32:29

but it was up against tough competition.

0:32:290:32:31

In fourth place is the lilac outfit.

0:32:330:32:35

I like this a lot, but it's still got many elements of the mac.

0:32:350:32:40

In third place, it's the targets.

0:32:420:32:44

It's great. It's really fun.

0:32:450:32:47

It's got a very distinctly '60s feel to it.

0:32:470:32:49

-Well done.

-Thank you.

0:32:490:32:50

You've got Rumana and Joyce left.

0:32:540:32:56

In second place is the red outfit.

0:33:000:33:06

We loved this. It's really graphic.

0:33:060:33:08

It works really well and very imaginative.

0:33:080:33:11

-Very well done.

-Thank you very much.

0:33:110:33:13

Oh, dear God.

0:33:130:33:14

Which means, of course, in first place,

0:33:140:33:15

it's Joyce's pink...

0:33:150:33:18

It's like a Liquorice Allsort.

0:33:200:33:21

It's almost edible.

0:33:210:33:23

I don't know what to say.

0:33:230:33:24

-Thank you.

-Very well done.

0:33:240:33:26

Go home. Listen to some '60s music.

0:33:260:33:28

We'll see you back here tomorrow for the big made-to-measure.

0:33:280:33:31

Night-night. Sleep well.

0:33:310:33:33

Just so amazed.

0:33:340:33:36

Well done.

0:33:360:33:38

Two firsts! Oh!

0:33:380:33:39

Oh. I just... Yes, absolutely brilliant.

0:33:390:33:43

I am quite disappointed,

0:33:430:33:46

but, yeah, the competition's just getting stiffer.

0:33:460:33:49

-RUMANA:

-I cannot believe I got so close to first place.

0:33:490:33:53

So close.

0:33:530:33:54

But Joycey again just comes in, and it was brilliant.

0:33:540:33:58

I thought hers was fantastic.

0:33:580:34:00

I am certainly looking forward to going back

0:34:000:34:02

and celebrating.

0:34:020:34:03

I got two firsts and I'm going to have two Chardonnays.

0:34:030:34:06

It's day two and time for the final '60s challenge,

0:34:160:34:19

and with only five places in next week's quarterfinal,

0:34:190:34:22

there's everything to sew for.

0:34:220:34:25

So far, have you been impressed?

0:34:250:34:27

Yes, I have. I've been really impressed.

0:34:270:34:29

Joyce came top in both challenges.

0:34:290:34:32

She'd have to have a disaster today for anything untoward to happen.

0:34:320:34:37

But I think Charlotte as well.

0:34:370:34:38

-Yes?

-That dress was really very, very well made.

0:34:380:34:42

I mean there was very little between the two of them at the top.

0:34:420:34:45

So, then, let's talk about those who are in trouble.

0:34:450:34:47

Tracey, she came bottom in the colour-block.

0:34:470:34:50

She messed up actually.

0:34:500:34:52

She did the colour top stitching and the zip was a mess.

0:34:520:34:56

Jade's monochrome colour-block dress

0:34:560:34:59

just lacked the crispness of some of the others.

0:34:590:35:01

And is Angeline in trouble?

0:35:010:35:03

We did put her bottom in the alteration challenge.

0:35:030:35:05

But in earlier shows, we've seen Angeline do quite badly

0:35:050:35:07

in the first two challenges and then get garment of the week.

0:35:070:35:10

Yeah, I think that's exactly right.

0:35:100:35:13

Yeah, it could. I mean, Angeline's had garment of the week twice.

0:35:130:35:16

For the made-to-measure challenge, fit is crucial,

0:35:180:35:21

so the mannequins have made way for real models.

0:35:210:35:25

Morning, hon?

0:35:250:35:26

You all right?

0:35:260:35:27

Nice to see you again.

0:35:270:35:29

OK, sewers, for your made-to-measure challenge,

0:35:330:35:37

the judges would love you to use vintage '60s patterns

0:35:370:35:43

to make wonderful jackets. Are you ready?

0:35:430:35:46

-Yeah. Woo!

-Yes.

0:35:460:35:47

-Yeah.

-You have six-and-a-half hours.

0:35:470:35:50

Your time starts now.

0:35:500:35:52

This is the one challenge the sewers have been able to practise at home.

0:35:520:35:56

The judges will be looking more and more at the detail.

0:35:560:35:59

Time to up my game.

0:35:590:36:01

Need a glug of water, some prayers.

0:36:010:36:03

I really want to stay, but it's very tough now.

0:36:030:36:05

There are a lot of good sewers here.

0:36:050:36:07

Oh.

0:36:070:36:08

The sewers were allowed to pre-cut their main pattern pieces,

0:36:090:36:13

but the fitting and construction must be done now.

0:36:130:36:16

Phwoar! Steamy.

0:36:180:36:20

It's week five. You've never asked them to make a jacket before.

0:36:200:36:23

Why have you waited until now?

0:36:230:36:25

We haven't really tested them on their tailoring skills.

0:36:250:36:28

It seems an appropriate time now, with it being the '60s,

0:36:280:36:31

a decade when the jacket really transformed itself.

0:36:310:36:34

Tailoring became, you know, exaggerated and exuberant.

0:36:340:36:38

Do you want buttons? Do you want pockets?

0:36:380:36:41

Will that all get extra marks?

0:36:410:36:44

Well, it depends how it's executed, actually.

0:36:440:36:46

Making a jacket is all to do with the finish.

0:36:460:36:49

So, when we do the catwalk show,

0:36:490:36:50

you want to be transported back to the '60s?

0:36:500:36:53

Yes.

0:36:530:36:55

Nice. I'm going to go for some music.

0:36:550:36:57

That would be good.

0:36:570:36:58

MUSIC: Puppet On A String by Sandi Shaw

0:36:580:37:02

# I wonder if one day that you'll say that you care

0:37:020:37:05

# If you say you love me madly I'll gladly be there

0:37:050:37:09

# Like a puppet on a string... #

0:37:090:37:11

My jacket is inspired by Jackie Kennedy in the early '60s.

0:37:110:37:15

She, sort of, inspired a whole generation of fashion, really.

0:37:150:37:20

Away from the nipped-in waist of the '50s.

0:37:200:37:23

There's a sort of theory that it was cos she kept having babies.

0:37:230:37:26

Charlotte's Jackie Kennedy-inspired single-breasted boxy jacket

0:37:260:37:29

will have a flat Peter Pan collar, covered buttons,

0:37:290:37:32

and set-in sleeves.

0:37:320:37:34

The judges do have very high standards.

0:37:340:37:36

Especially with jackets and things.

0:37:360:37:38

I always worry cos Patrick, of course, knows his tailoring.

0:37:380:37:42

I chose this navy blue, because it's a pea jacket.

0:37:450:37:49

Originally, a pea jacket was used by sailors.

0:37:490:37:53

Joyce's pea jacket is double-breasted with lapels,

0:37:530:37:56

a notched collar, set-in sleeves,

0:37:560:37:58

and in-seam pockets.

0:37:580:38:01

Now, this is going to make me sound awful,

0:38:010:38:03

but Elvis wore a similar jacket

0:38:030:38:05

and if Elvis wore it, it's good enough for me.

0:38:050:38:08

So I have gone for an Audrey Hepburn-inspired jacket.

0:38:080:38:13

She's just a style icon, and when you look back at pictures,

0:38:130:38:17

it's unbelievable how glamorous and, still, how fashionable she is.

0:38:170:38:21

Rumana's A-line coat has raglan sleeves

0:38:210:38:24

for a soft, '60s shoulder,

0:38:240:38:26

a flat Peter Pan collar,

0:38:260:38:27

covered buttons and welt pockets.

0:38:270:38:30

I'm just doing my pockets.

0:38:300:38:31

And how are you finding that?

0:38:310:38:33

-I did one.

-It's not too bad.

0:38:330:38:36

I'm hoping this one's a bit better.

0:38:360:38:37

Well, don't make it too much better,

0:38:370:38:39

-cos then it will make this one look worse. You want them even.

-OK.

0:38:390:38:43

My jacket is inspired by the later part of the '60s.

0:38:450:38:48

The swinging '60s.

0:38:480:38:50

It's going to be bright and vibrant.

0:38:510:38:54

Angelina's wool-flannel A-line coat

0:38:540:38:56

has patch pockets

0:38:560:38:58

with contrast Paisley fabric,

0:38:580:38:59

A high funnel collar,

0:38:590:39:01

and covered buttons with Rouleau loops.

0:39:010:39:04

I'm adding some fur.

0:39:040:39:07

-Stop it!

-Along the bottom.

0:39:070:39:09

-No!

-Just here.

0:39:090:39:11

That with Paisley and bright orange?!

0:39:110:39:13

I've got something at the back of my neck.

0:39:150:39:17

I'm kidding. It's fantastic.

0:39:170:39:19

If that doesn't win, I don't know what will.

0:39:190:39:23

I mean, possibly something else.

0:39:230:39:24

But, still...

0:39:240:39:26

-Let's give it a go.

-OK.

0:39:260:39:27

Not all the sewers are going for the bells-and-whistles approach

0:39:270:39:31

to the jacket.

0:39:310:39:32

That's better.

0:39:340:39:36

Mine is a little bit less complicated than everyone else's.

0:39:360:39:39

It's only, like, five pieces.

0:39:390:39:42

But, it's the way that I'm going to sew it together

0:39:420:39:44

that's hopefully going to wow the judges.

0:39:440:39:46

I think, just the techniques that I'm going to use,

0:39:460:39:49

and make sure it is perfectly sewn and matching.

0:39:490:39:53

Jade's cropped jacket has a flat Peter Pan collar,

0:39:530:39:56

elbow length set-in sleeves,

0:39:560:39:57

and is made from a wool and silk-blend

0:39:570:39:59

tweed fabric.

0:39:590:40:02

You're going to see something amazing.

0:40:020:40:04

It's pattern-matched all the way through.

0:40:040:40:06

Stop it! It IS pattern-matched.

0:40:060:40:09

CLAUDIA GASPS

0:40:090:40:10

Can you see a seam at the front anywhere?

0:40:100:40:12

-No!

-It's right there.

-CLAUDIA GASPS

0:40:120:40:14

I could not see that!

0:40:140:40:15

-Well done.

-Thanks.

0:40:150:40:17

Let's have a look at this fur?

0:40:210:40:23

It's like Rod Hull has stepped into the room.

0:40:230:40:26

I don't know Rod Hull is.

0:40:260:40:27

Do you not remember? With Emu.

0:40:270:40:29

Oh, I remember Emu, yes.

0:40:290:40:31

Once I was doing the research,

0:40:310:40:32

there was a lot of fur on jackets,

0:40:320:40:35

especially in the late '60s.

0:40:350:40:37

But, actually, that looks a little bit, sort of, well, fancy dress.

0:40:370:40:42

I've chosen a pattern that's based on an original 1960s pattern.

0:40:420:40:47

It's got this, what's called a grown-on sleeve.

0:40:470:40:50

So, the sleeve and the body are all cut in one.

0:40:500:40:53

I've got to make sure this is good today, really,

0:40:530:40:55

if I'm going to be staying.

0:40:550:40:57

Tracey's tweed cardigan-style jacket

0:40:570:41:00

has bracelet length grown-on sleeves

0:41:000:41:02

with a side gusset,

0:41:020:41:04

welt pockets and a flat collar.

0:41:040:41:05

And it is inspired by her mum.

0:41:050:41:08

This was an outfit my mum made in 1960, on her honeymoon.

0:41:080:41:11

She made it on honeymoon, or she wore it on honeymoon?

0:41:110:41:14

No. She made it to wear on honeymoon.

0:41:140:41:15

It wasn't a good honeymoon if you were sewing, was it?

0:41:150:41:18

Then, just to make you laugh,

0:41:180:41:19

she turned that outfit into something for me when I was three.

0:41:190:41:23

So, she was a fantastic sewer.

0:41:230:41:25

All sorts of things, yeah. Was really good at sewing.

0:41:250:41:28

I'm hoping today does her justice, really.

0:41:280:41:30

She would have liked doing this.

0:41:300:41:31

-All right. I'm really looking forward to this.

-Good.

0:41:310:41:34

MUSIC: Knock On Wood

0:41:340:41:37

You've had one hour 35, boys and girls.

0:41:400:41:44

Girls.

0:41:440:41:45

The judges aren't sure if the fur is going to work.

0:41:450:41:47

So, I'm not going to put it on.

0:41:470:41:49

I came last in the alteration challenge,

0:41:490:41:52

which wasn't ideal.

0:41:520:41:54

So, under pressure.

0:41:540:41:57

Armholes, good.

0:41:570:42:00

The sewers will have to continually make adjustments

0:42:000:42:03

to ensure their jackets are a perfect fit.

0:42:030:42:05

I just need to take this in just a tiny bit.

0:42:080:42:11

Just to make it fit her better.

0:42:110:42:13

Otherwise, it looks like she has got odd boobies.

0:42:130:42:16

Fit is very important to me because it's not something I'm usually very good at,

0:42:160:42:19

so I really don't want to let myself down with that.

0:42:190:42:22

But a good fit isn't all the judges will be looking for.

0:42:220:42:25

The sewers have to figure out where and how

0:42:250:42:27

to give their jackets structure.

0:42:270:42:29

I'm just going to get some more interfacing.

0:42:290:42:32

What is interfacing?

0:42:320:42:34

Interfacing is a layer, either of canvas or iron-on fabric,

0:42:340:42:39

that gives the jacket a structure and a good finish.

0:42:390:42:43

Allow the fabric to drape naturally where you need it to drape

0:42:430:42:46

and use interfacing where it needs to be crisp.

0:42:460:42:49

I've done my interfacing, to give it a bit more steadiness.

0:42:490:42:52

I've used interfacing so it doesn't all go misshapen in use,

0:42:520:42:56

and when you put the buttonholes in.

0:42:560:42:58

Collar needs interfacing which is what I'm working on now.

0:42:580:43:02

That's a better fit.

0:43:020:43:03

I'm slightly worried Angeline hasn't interfaced that front.

0:43:030:43:09

It's quite bouncy fabric

0:43:090:43:11

and there still needs to be a crispness to the finish.

0:43:110:43:15

I've put interfacing on the front section of my jacket.

0:43:150:43:20

How do you think Jade is getting on?

0:43:200:43:22

She doesn't have an awful lot to do process-wise.

0:43:220:43:25

Given that this is not the most complicated of garments,

0:43:250:43:29

she's going to have to make this...

0:43:290:43:31

-Beautifully.

-..beautifully.

0:43:310:43:33

I'm taking my time and making sure that everything's perfect.

0:43:330:43:36

Hopefully the judges will be very impressed by it.

0:43:360:43:38

Sewers, you're halfway through.

0:43:410:43:43

Sewing in sleeves at the moment.

0:43:430:43:45

Nearly got the second sleeve sewn in.

0:43:450:43:47

I made sure that even the sleeves were pattern-matched.

0:43:470:43:50

Oh, yeah!

0:43:500:43:51

Five of the six sewers have cut out individual sleeve pieces

0:43:510:43:55

and are now attaching them to the shoulders.

0:43:550:43:57

You just match the side seam and the shoulder seam with your markings

0:43:570:44:02

and then you can just ease the rest in.

0:44:020:44:04

Super groovy.

0:44:040:44:05

It's a little bit tricky with this grown-on sleeve.

0:44:070:44:10

But Tracey's sleeves aren't separate.

0:44:100:44:12

They're part of her T-shaped bodice.

0:44:120:44:15

Just done the underarm seam,

0:44:150:44:18

and then I'm fixing the underarm to the panel

0:44:180:44:22

that goes round the side of the body.

0:44:220:44:24

This means she has to insert a fiddly gusset where the seams meet.

0:44:240:44:28

A little bit of a lump there. That shouldn't happen.

0:44:280:44:31

It is a really, kind of, perplexing shape.

0:44:310:44:35

It does look OK, but it's just taking her ages.

0:44:350:44:38

I might get rid of it with enough steam.

0:44:380:44:41

Joyce, you are pressing.

0:44:420:44:44

They will be very pleased about that.

0:44:440:44:46

Press, press, press, Claudia.

0:44:460:44:48

-How are you finding this challenge?

-I like it.

0:44:480:44:50

I really like tailoring.

0:44:500:44:53

This is getting the collar right, it's quite difficult.

0:44:530:44:56

-I know.

-So, if you could knock another 20 minutes on

0:44:560:44:59

-at least at the end?

-Leave it with me, Joyce.

0:44:590:45:01

-Leave it with me.

-Thank you.

-SHE MOUTHS

0:45:010:45:03

Sewers, you have one hour left.

0:45:050:45:07

That seems to have gone very quickly.

0:45:070:45:09

I'm pinning my lining jacket, which is now complete,

0:45:090:45:15

to my jacket jacket, which is also complete,

0:45:150:45:18

and I'm going to sew them together.

0:45:180:45:20

To attach their linings,

0:45:200:45:21

the sewers are using the bagging-out technique.

0:45:210:45:25

Bagging-out is you sew the lining to the body of the coat inside-out

0:45:250:45:30

and then pull it the right way round.

0:45:300:45:32

At that point, you realise it either works or it doesn't work.

0:45:320:45:35

The lining can actually make or break a jacket.

0:45:350:45:37

If the lining is too small, it might pull up the jacket from the inside.

0:45:370:45:41

So, now I've got a thing that doesn't in any way

0:45:410:45:45

look like a jacket.

0:45:450:45:46

Turn the whole thing through. It's like giving birth.

0:45:460:45:48

It's probably the most exciting bit of jacket-making.

0:45:480:45:51

-I'm about to give birth!

-I'd like to be your doula.

-Would you?

-Yeah.

0:45:510:45:55

I'm really hoping this goes right.

0:45:550:45:57

-We're birthing.

-We're birthing!

0:45:570:45:59

It's all twisted.

0:45:590:46:01

Some weird creature's going to be born.

0:46:010:46:03

I can see the collar.

0:46:030:46:05

Shall I pretend to be Enya?

0:46:050:46:07

Aaaah!

0:46:070:46:09

Give it some whale music.

0:46:090:46:10

It's like an episode of Countryfile.

0:46:100:46:12

Aah! I can't watch.

0:46:120:46:14

CLAUDIA GASPS

0:46:150:46:17

It's... What are you going to call it?!

0:46:170:46:20

-Jacket!

-Hello there, Jacket!

0:46:200:46:23

That's a coat.

0:46:250:46:26

That's the kind of birth I can get my head around.

0:46:260:46:28

We make a perfect couple.

0:46:280:46:29

We do. We really do.

0:46:290:46:31

Oh, God, the lining's too small.

0:46:330:46:35

Just one big mistake.

0:46:350:46:36

Sewers, you have 20 minutes left to get your coats

0:46:360:46:38

on your beautiful models.

0:46:380:46:40

We're going to set up a catwalk show.

0:46:400:46:42

I can do that in 20 minutes.

0:46:420:46:43

-Four buttons.

-What are you using for buttons?

0:46:430:46:46

Cos that was originally worn by sailors...

0:46:460:46:48

-Anchors!

-Yes!

-An anchor motif.

0:46:480:46:51

Cute!

0:46:510:46:52

It is important for buttonholes to be neat, definitely.

0:46:530:46:57

You don't want wonky buttonholes.

0:46:570:46:59

Uneven buttonholes?!

0:46:590:47:01

SHE CHUCKLES

0:47:010:47:03

They're proving a little bit tough because the fabric's so thick.

0:47:030:47:06

Sewers, you have ten minutes left.

0:47:060:47:09

Disaster.

0:47:090:47:10

I was so looking forward to not rushing at the last minute.

0:47:100:47:13

How are you getting on?

0:47:130:47:15

-Rushing.

-You're rushing?

-As per my usual.

0:47:150:47:17

There is a black hole in the corner of the room,

0:47:170:47:19

it's sucking all the time into it.

0:47:190:47:21

There's a black hole in the corner of the room.

0:47:210:47:23

I call it Patrick.

0:47:230:47:24

Well done, Charlotte.

0:47:260:47:29

I need to press this.

0:47:290:47:30

Three minutes, everybody.

0:47:300:47:31

Three minutes.

0:47:310:47:33

Just constantly pressing.

0:47:330:47:35

You made this hat?

0:47:350:47:36

-Cereal box.

-Out of a cereal box?

0:47:360:47:39

What's going on with my lining?

0:47:390:47:41

Get them off. Quickly.

0:47:410:47:42

Done.

0:47:430:47:44

I don't know why mine's twisting.

0:47:440:47:46

Rumana, you have one minute. Angeline, one minute.

0:47:460:47:49

Come towards me.

0:47:490:47:50

That's it. Time.

0:47:530:47:55

Just want to keep pressing. OK.

0:47:550:47:56

I know you want to keep pressing.

0:47:560:47:58

Tools down.

0:47:580:48:00

Are you still happy?

0:48:000:48:01

-No. No.

-What?

-It's better not to.

0:48:010:48:04

I'm OK.

0:48:040:48:05

The buttons were completely off.

0:48:060:48:08

Honestly. There is so much wrong with mine.

0:48:080:48:10

Serious, there's so much wrong.

0:48:100:48:11

Look at my hem at the back.

0:48:110:48:13

-I think my mum would have really liked this.

-Yes.

0:48:130:48:16

-VOICE BREAKING:

-I think she'd be proud of me.

0:48:160:48:20

MUSIC: (There's) Always Something There To Remind Me by Sandi Shaw

0:48:200:48:23

Right. Pull yourself together, woman.

0:48:230:48:25

# I walk along the city streets you used to walk along with me... #

0:48:280:48:33

Six 1960s jackets made in just six-and-a-half hours.

0:48:350:48:40

Tracey, you're up first.

0:48:400:48:42

Please bring your beautiful jacket to the front.

0:48:420:48:45

Right, Tracey.

0:48:550:48:56

I'm really pleased that you've done the sleeve you've done.

0:48:560:49:00

Because, for me, that's very '60s.

0:49:000:49:02

It was very difficult. I don't know if I'd do it again.

0:49:020:49:05

-I would have liked this a little narrower.

-Right.

0:49:050:49:08

And, also, you can see exactly where the sewn line is here.

0:49:080:49:11

That needs to disappear for me.

0:49:110:49:13

It needs to be much better pressed out.

0:49:130:49:15

I've just got a little bit of lining...

0:49:150:49:17

-Yes, showing there.

-..showing here.

0:49:170:49:19

It's a shame about the lining.

0:49:190:49:21

-Are you pleased?

-I am pleased.

0:49:210:49:23

I think it's a very good-looking jacket

0:49:230:49:26

that you could very, very happily wear.

0:49:260:49:28

MUSIC: Please Mr Postman by The Marvelettes

0:49:280:49:32

I saw it sitting on the mannequin,

0:49:380:49:40

and, I've got to say, I didn't love it on there.

0:49:400:49:42

But on the body, it really comes alive.

0:49:420:49:45

I like the wide neckline.

0:49:450:49:47

It looks really, really '60s.

0:49:470:49:50

Your buttonholes are very even.

0:49:500:49:52

That front edge is nice and crisp.

0:49:520:49:54

But, one of my problems, I have to point this out,

0:49:540:49:57

is this front is longer than that front.

0:49:570:50:00

-(It's not really.)

-Well...

0:50:000:50:01

Don't argue with Esme.

0:50:010:50:03

Look, look, look.

0:50:030:50:04

-Let go.

-No.

0:50:040:50:05

-It is.

-LAUGHTER

0:50:050:50:07

I love this fabric.

0:50:160:50:18

That soft shoulder is really '60s.

0:50:180:50:21

Your welt pockets are actually really well done and...

0:50:210:50:26

pretty even.

0:50:260:50:28

There are two things that leap out. Are you seeing the same two?

0:50:280:50:31

-Well, the hem.

-The hem.

0:50:310:50:33

The lining is pulling the coat.

0:50:330:50:35

-Yes.

-What I would do is, when you sew it, it falls over like that.

0:50:350:50:40

Then there is no way the lining can pull.

0:50:400:50:44

Such a shame because from here up,

0:50:440:50:47

it looks terrific.

0:50:470:50:49

Apart from the one other thing,

0:50:490:50:51

which are that your buttons are in the wrong place.

0:50:510:50:53

-Yes.

-It's a great piece of sewing apart from those two bits.

-Yes.

0:50:530:50:58

MUSIC: Blueberry Hill by Elvis Presley

0:50:580:51:00

Right, Joyce, well, this looks pretty nicely made.

0:51:060:51:09

I think it is first-rate.

0:51:090:51:10

My great issue is, I don't get '60s from this.

0:51:100:51:14

This, to me, feels '80s.

0:51:140:51:16

Sorry, Patrick, I have to disagree with you.

0:51:160:51:18

Well, I know it's a '60s pattern. We saw it was a '60s pattern.

0:51:180:51:21

I think, if you'd made it in a different fabric,

0:51:210:51:23

it might have been.

0:51:230:51:24

If you'd have chosen different buttons, it might have been.

0:51:240:51:27

This feels of a different era.

0:51:270:51:29

The only thing, for me, is here...

0:51:290:51:31

Yes.

0:51:310:51:32

..where it's not lying flat against the neck.

0:51:320:51:36

Yes. OK. Well, I'll agree with you on that.

0:51:360:51:38

-Oh, you will? OK.

-I will.

0:51:380:51:40

MUSIC: It's Not Unusual by Tom Jones

0:51:410:51:45

It's certainly eye-catching.

0:51:530:51:55

I think, of all of them,

0:51:550:51:56

it's the boldest in terms of the fabric choices.

0:51:560:51:59

Love the orange.

0:51:590:52:00

I love the Paisley.

0:52:000:52:02

It has an impact.

0:52:020:52:04

I think, fit-wise, it just looks soft and a little bit lumpy

0:52:040:52:09

and it needs crispness and rigidity to give it the impact

0:52:090:52:12

that it really needs.

0:52:120:52:14

Did you interface the whole front?

0:52:140:52:15

-No.

-You didn't.

0:52:150:52:16

It's quite a soft fabric and it's just, sort of, collapsing.

0:52:160:52:21

And the hem is a mess.

0:52:210:52:23

The lining's short inside

0:52:230:52:24

and you can see where it's just dragging the coat up.

0:52:240:52:27

You did originally plan to give us a fur trim.

0:52:270:52:29

I'm glad you haven't

0:52:290:52:31

because I think that would have really overloaded it.

0:52:310:52:33

It would have hidden the hem, actually.

0:52:330:52:35

-Well, I was going to say, yes.

-Yes.

0:52:350:52:37

Right, Jade. I love this.

0:52:460:52:48

It looks very '60s.

0:52:480:52:51

I love the fabric.

0:52:510:52:53

-Thank you.

-I love the style.

0:52:530:52:55

Sounds like there's a but coming.

0:52:550:52:58

-No.

-I don't think there's a but.

0:52:580:52:59

I think it's really spot-on.

0:52:590:53:02

It absolutely epitomises the era we were looking for.

0:53:020:53:06

-It fits really well.

-It fits really well.

0:53:060:53:09

Just look how beautifully she's matched it

0:53:090:53:11

right through the top of the sleeve,

0:53:110:53:14

right across the chest.

0:53:140:53:16

-Esme, look.

-Yep.

0:53:160:53:17

Oh, she's matched the buttons.

0:53:170:53:19

Matched the stripe going right through the top of that button.

0:53:190:53:22

You know, this is quite a simple jacket.

0:53:220:53:24

If you're doing something simple, it has to be absolutely perfect.

0:53:240:53:28

And it really is.

0:53:280:53:29

It's exceptional.

0:53:290:53:31

I really love it.

0:53:310:53:32

Well done to everyone.

0:53:360:53:37

There are flapjack mountains waiting for you.

0:53:370:53:40

So, go, relax.

0:53:400:53:42

When you come back in, the judges will announce

0:53:420:53:44

the garment of the week

0:53:440:53:45

and will announce the person who's leaving the sewing room.

0:53:450:53:49

That challenge went absolutely amazing.

0:53:580:54:01

I'm so over the moon with how that went.

0:54:010:54:04

We're all aiming for perfection and being really hard on ourselves,

0:54:040:54:07

and I think I definitely fell victim to that today.

0:54:070:54:10

I didn't have a great week.

0:54:100:54:12

And it's all about how you performed that week.

0:54:130:54:16

It would be absolutely wonderful...

0:54:180:54:20

..if my mother's jacket saved me from going home.

0:54:220:54:24

She'd be really proud.

0:54:240:54:26

I've done that jacket in tribute to her.

0:54:260:54:29

Am I ready to go home?

0:54:290:54:31

So, this morning, judges, the people who were in trouble

0:54:430:54:47

were Jade, Tracey, and Angeline.

0:54:470:54:50

Does it still stand?

0:54:500:54:51

No. With respect to Jade,

0:54:510:54:53

she's pulled herself out of any mire at all.

0:54:530:54:55

In fact, this jacket, for me, is a contender for garment of the week.

0:54:550:54:58

So, what is that up against?

0:54:580:55:00

It's up against Joyce's colour-block dress.

0:55:000:55:03

The near faultless rendition of that pattern challenge.

0:55:030:55:06

So that means Jade is now safe.

0:55:060:55:10

That leaves Tracey and Angeline.

0:55:100:55:12

How will you choose?

0:55:120:55:14

The alterations were all reasonably even.

0:55:140:55:17

Tracey shaded that one.

0:55:170:55:19

I think what we have to do is have a look at, firstly,

0:55:190:55:22

the two colour-blocked dresses.

0:55:220:55:25

Tracey has done all this colour top stitching

0:55:250:55:29

that doesn't actually work.

0:55:290:55:30

And the zip isn't sewn in correctly.

0:55:300:55:33

Whereas, Angeline's colour-block dress is a pretty good rendition.

0:55:330:55:36

But, today, that was reversed.

0:55:360:55:39

Tracey's jacket was good and Angeline's coat was a mess.

0:55:390:55:46

It's a tough one.

0:55:460:55:48

Huge congratulations to all of you for '60s week.

0:55:500:55:55

The first bit is the good news.

0:55:550:55:57

The garment of the week. Patrick, what is it?

0:55:570:56:00

Our favourite garment of this week is...

0:56:000:56:04

-..this one.

-CHEERING AND APPLAUSE

0:56:050:56:07

Oh, God!

0:56:090:56:11

It just looked perfect.

0:56:110:56:13

I'm so happy.

0:56:130:56:15

Now the bit that is a bit painful.

0:56:150:56:16

The person leaving the Sewing Bee is...

0:56:160:56:20

I'm so sorry. It's Angeline.

0:56:290:56:31

-Yes.

-Sorry.

0:56:310:56:32

Don't worry, darling.

0:56:340:56:36

-No, don't. Give me a hug.

-Too late. Too late.

0:56:360:56:38

Devastated to be leaving the Sewing Bee.

0:56:400:56:43

But being here has taught me that I can...

0:56:450:56:48

..achieve more than what I first thought.

0:56:500:56:51

I'm sad to send Angeline home.

0:56:530:56:55

She hasn't the experience in tailored clothes,

0:56:550:56:59

and that's ultimately what's let her down.

0:56:590:57:01

It's really, really hard to send people home.

0:57:010:57:04

Absolutely is.

0:57:040:57:06

They're such a little community.

0:57:060:57:08

I could feel my pulse racing and my butterflies going.

0:57:080:57:13

And I thought, "It's me, it's me, it's me."

0:57:130:57:15

When it's somebody else, you're, kind of like,

0:57:150:57:17

"Thank God it's not me",

0:57:170:57:18

but then you're upset because it's somebody that, you know,

0:57:180:57:21

you've really grown to love over the last couple of weeks.

0:57:210:57:23

Five weeks of sewing with these amazing sewers.

0:57:230:57:28

Yeah, I'm incredibly proud.

0:57:280:57:30

My family will be so proud.

0:57:300:57:33

-PHONE DIALS

-'Hello.'

0:57:350:57:37

I only went and got garment of the week.

0:57:370:57:40

'Oh! My! God!

0:57:400:57:44

'Smashed it!

0:57:440:57:46

'Get in there!'

0:57:460:57:48

Oh, come on.

0:57:480:57:50

Next time, the sewers take to their marks with activewear.

0:57:500:57:54

What are you doing this weekend? I'm just going cycling.

0:57:540:57:57

As they wrestle with the stretchiest...

0:57:570:57:59

Oh, my God!

0:57:590:58:00

..most technical...

0:58:000:58:02

Just a total nightmare!

0:58:020:58:03

..and figure-hugging garments yet.

0:58:030:58:06

They fit!

0:58:060:58:07

For a place...

0:58:070:58:09

I think it's an exceptional fit.

0:58:090:58:11

..in the semifinal.

0:58:110:58:13

I had to go to the dentist yesterday and have a tooth filled.

0:58:130:58:15

I think I'd rather go back there than do this again!

0:58:150:58:18

This week, the sewing room is transported back to the 1960s as the six remaining sewers revive vintage garments, take on time-honoured techniques and wrestle with antique equipment in an attempt to show Patrick and Esme they deserve a place in the quarter-finals.

For their first challenge, the sewers are asked to follow a pattern for an iconic 1960s colour block dress. With multiple panels and clean, crisp lines required, precision is everything. For their alteration challenge, the sewers take a classic 1960s rainmac, but trying to make a wearable garment from PVC is no mean feat. For the made-to-measure challenge, the sewing room goes from squeak to chic as the sewers try to create impeccably fitted, flawlessly finished 1960s-inspired jackets. There are only five places in the quarter-final and with such a labour-intensive, tailored item as a jacket to perfect, the stakes have never been higher and achieving the perfect sew has never been harder.