Puzzling Patterns and Pattern Cutting The Great British Sewing Bee


Puzzling Patterns and Pattern Cutting

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Week one seems a long time ago when ten freshfaced sewers arrived

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and went back to basics.

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Well, now, their minds are about to be

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blown as they take on the most perplexing patterns yet.

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It's like sewing meets Sudoku.

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Welcome to The Great British Sewing Bee.

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-'To reach the semifinal...'

-Oh!

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..the sewers had to survive the stretchiest of sportswear.

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Oh, my God!

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Jade excelled with the most fitted made-to-measure yet...

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I think it's an exceptional fit.

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..and Rumana was the sixth person to leave the sewing room.

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-I mean, I always expected to go in week one.

-You're not going anywhere.

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-'Now the semifinalists face a pattern challenge...'

-What is that?

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-'..that is utterly bewildering...'

-Why does it do weird things there?

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-'..an alteration...'

-OK, I'm done.

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'..that doesn't even start as a garment...'

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No good looking at me, cos I haven't got a clue!

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..and a made-to-measure they have to design from scratch.

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-You can't be pernickety at this point.

-I can.

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-'But who will fall at the last hurdle...'

-No, no, no!

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-'..and who will book their place...'

-Taxi for Tracey, I think!

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-'..in the grand final?'

-Why did I cut it off?

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Four sewers remain, and the grand final only has room for three.

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Here we are again.

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With 60 years of sewing under her belt,

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71-year-old grandmother Joyce...

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If they want precision, they'll get precision.

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..has consistently produced exquisitely sewn garments.

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It's crisply sewn. It was a beautiful fit.

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The thing about Joyce is she's a very good, neat, experienced sewer.

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-One gusset! Yes!

-But what she lacks is a certain kind of flair.

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-There's too much space on these coat racks.

-I know.

-Don't like it.

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-Scientific journal editor and mum of three Charlotte...

-Magic!

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..has ranked near the top throughout...

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Your hand sewing is absolutely exquisite.

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..but she's won fewer challenges than her fellow semifinalists.

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Charlotte has a very delicate hand.

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She has a beautiful ability with fabrics.

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I'm just going to join up the dots so I can see what I need to do.

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She's very scientific in her approach.

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Everything is methodically planned, and sometimes,

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if a spanner gets thrown in the works, it kind of throws her off.

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Just put me slippers on.

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Former primary school teacher Tracey holds this year's record

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for the most challenges won...

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Well executed, beautifully colour balanced. It's fantastic.

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-..but has struggled with fit...

-Think it should have been slimmer.

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..and has yet to win Garment Of The Week.

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What Tracey needs to do is something, actually,

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she's never quite achieved before.

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She needs to step up to the mark and make a fabulously fitted dress.

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Does anyone want a heart? Cos we all love each other.

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18-year-old art student Jade is the Sewing Bee's youngest-ever

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-semifinalist...

-Oh, yeah!

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..and the only one to have been awarded Garment Of The Week twice.

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Jade has a very open mind to sewing.

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She embraces new techniques, she embraces new shapes,

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new finishes, but she hasn't had the years and years of sewing

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that some of our others have had.

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Inexperience sometimes, I think, lets her down.

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-Good morning, semifinalists!

-Good morning.

-Come forward.

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-How are we all?

-Good.

-All right.

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The good news is there are only three challenges until the final.

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The horrific news is they're all, I think, unbelievably difficult.

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This week, it is all about your understanding of patterns

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and pattern cutting.

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-Esme, what is the pattern challenge?

-Right.

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-Here you go. Hand that out.

-Ooh, it's heavy!

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-This week, we've got a flared skirt...

-Yes!

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..inspired by contemporary Japanese pattern cutting.

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You're going to need to combine some fiendishly unusual shapes

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to create an asymmetric, voluminous yoked skirt.

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For this, you do have 3.5 hours.

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Enormous luck. Your time starts now.

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Right.

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# Salagadoola mechicka boola bibbidi-bobbidi-boo...#

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Goodness me, look at that!

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# Put 'em together and what have you got? Bibbidi-bobbidi-boo. #

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I've never seen a pattern quite like this. It looks like a map.

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Oh, blimey!

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Taxi for Tracey, I think.

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This complex pattern follows the same principles

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as modern Japanese cutting styles...

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What is that?

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..where abstract pieces are combined to create complex shapes.

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-Seriously?

-It's all about the shape of that curve.

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They're joining two different curves together,

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so the yoke has got one curve and the skirt has got another curve

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and that's what causes these drapes.

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What happens if they don't sew it perfectly?

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The skirt won't hang correctly

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and they might even end up getting holes

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between the yoke and the skirt.

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-Can I ask you about fabric choice?

-We don't want a fabric that frays.

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In this garment, we have got exposed raw edges,

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so they need something they can cut cleanly.

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Every bit of it will show.

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Let's go and choose some fabric.

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Hey-ho.

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Shall I have purple, like I always do?

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Yeah, go for purple. It's traditional.

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-It's calming me down with this horrendous pattern.

-I like this one.

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I like the colour of it. It's not fraying.

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Tracey, Jade and Charlotte have all chosen a classic woollen fabric

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whereas Joyce has gone for a thicker, bolder option.

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-This is a beautiful colour.

-A bit in your face but look at the reverse.

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Ba-bam!

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Is this neoprene?

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-It feels scuba-like.

-It does a bit, doesn't it?

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Hopefully it will hang quite nicely. We will see.

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I was wondering if they would let me take this pattern home with me.

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Of course you can! Joyce, you can have this table.

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-Oh, thank you.

-You can have this, the mannequin.

-Thank you.

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Patrick goes home with everyone,

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he's like a party bag that never really starts giving.

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It'll be interesting to see how all these pieces are

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actually going to fit together, because at the minute,

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it just looks like somebody's insane idea on a drunk night.

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To create the top half, or yoke, three pieces are sewn together.

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Then three larger pieces are joined to form the flared lower skirt.

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The yoke is then placed over the flared section

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and topstitched along the curved seam line.

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Finally, it's fastened with an invisible zip.

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Right, I'm going to iron this pattern because it needs to be cut

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really precisely and I want it to lay nice and flat.

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Interesting to see how Joyce, Charlotte and Tracey have all

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ironed their patterns and laid them out smoothly.

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Jade hasn't ironed hers and watching her pin it on,

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there are lumps and bumps when it's sitting on the fabric.

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If they're even just a little bit out, those curves,

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-they will never, ever match.

-No.

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Oh, blimey.

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The edge of the fabric is actually on display,

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which is why it needs to be very nice and neat.

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There's a lot of wobbly curves which are quite difficult to get round.

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I always use a rotary cutter to cut out pretty much.

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Scissors lift the fabric when you're cutting.

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It moves the pattern around a bit. I don't like that.

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"Transfer markings in your preferred way."

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Each pattern piece is marked with small triangles called notches.

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When the fabric is joined, all the notches must line up perfectly

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so the sewers need to keep track of precisely where they all are.

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I'm marking the notches by making little triangles.

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The join is designed to be visible so any marks need to be hidden.

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When I've matched them up, I'll just snip them off.

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I had marked with chalk because it says not to cut them and I think

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that's because you lay it on the top so they will show if you cut them.

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There's hundreds of notches on this so they're obviously important.

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Tracey has chosen to cut her fabric to mark the notches.

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I just wanted to make sure you noticed in the pattern that it says

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not to cut these because it gets laid on top

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and then edge-stitched down, then they show.

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Oh. Right.

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-Tracey, morning.

-Hi.

-How are you getting on?

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-Yeah, all right, I think.

-Why are you laughing like that?

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Because I've made a fatal error early doors.

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I've snipped the notches.

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-Right, what's your next thing to do?

-Read the instructions!

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Have you not yet?

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I had a quick glance and thought, right, OK,

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it'll make more sense when I've got the pieces.

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It's only five pages.

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-Just read it all the way to the end.

-Yeah.

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-That's what I need to do.

-Yeah.

-OK.

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Sewers, you have had one hour.

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I am re-cutting.

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Right, let's get stitching.

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Once all the notches have been marked, construction can begin.

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I'm going to do the yoke.

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The yoke hugs the hips and forms the top of the skirt.

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So, that's what needs to go together. There we go, like that.

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These are my darts to give it some shape over the hips.

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You don't want a saggy skirt, do you?

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SHE CHUCKLES

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-It might as well have been written in Japanese, this pattern.

-It might as well.

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"Press towards the centre back."

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Oh, that presses all right.

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Oh, look at that. The top of a skirt!

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"With right sides together,

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sew skirt pieces four, five and six together."

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OK. Now it's just figuring out left and right.

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Looking at this, to me, that goes there, so that's the right back,

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which is my left hand which is why I always get confused.

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This is the most complicated bloody skirt I've ever done.

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I don't think I've put these in the right places. No, don't worry.

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It's fine.

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Now the top and the bottom have been constructed,

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the sewers have the difficult job of figuring out how they fit together.

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These wavy bits have got to go into those wavy bits.

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That would go... blimey!

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Like that. Or would it? Yes. Oh, gosh.

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I like a jigsaw puzzle but this is...

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Well, how you match it is by following the notches

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and you line it up like that.

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So, when we get to here, that lines up with that.

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-That makes sense to me and now...

-Then we line this up.

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Why have you got this furl of fabric?

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The furl will be translated into this bit.

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Once this is on,

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that will go flat-ish and you will get your fullness here.

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Ah, so this strange origami world is creating these little kicks?

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-Yes.

-But it's just hard.

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-This is the semifinal, give them something hard.

-OK.

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You sure did.

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One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine,

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10, 11, 12, 13 notches.

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That's a whole lot of notches.

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Buenas noches!

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It's very fiddly and of course,

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you've got to get it spot-on for it to sit nicely.

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Where has my notch disappeared to? There it is.

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God, this is hard.

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-Joyce, how on earth does that sit right?

-Well, it doesn't.

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-It's like a weird pocket.

-OK, just think Japanese.

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I was going to take this pattern home but I've changed my mind.

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Changed your mind, Joyce?

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I'm quite enjoying it in a twisted sort of way.

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-In A twisted sort of way, yeah!

-"Twisted" is right.

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With the top and bottom of the skirt pinned together,

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the sewers should secure the seam line in place

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with a temporary basting or tacking stitch.

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I have a feeling it will take quite some time.

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-Charlotte, does yours do that?

-What?

-That.

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-You... No.

-Everywhere fits but that bit is really weird.

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-Did you sew that together correctly?

-Yeah.

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-How weird is that?

-Pretty damn weird.

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This is the wrong way.

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-So that's the wrong way?

-Yeah.

-So I have to undo all that.

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-I'll just undo all of that.

-I think that's the wrong way.

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Oh, bloody hell, man!

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Sewers, one hour left for the pattern challenge of the semifinal.

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-Right, here goes.

-Here we go.

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With the top and bottom half basted together...

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I just need to relax and chill. It's fine. It's all good.

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The sewers approach the most important stage of the pattern

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where they must perfectly topstitch the difficult curved seam.

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It says, "ensure the stitching is an even distance from the cut edge",

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so it's clearly the most important thing at this point.

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All four have decided to use a edge stitch foot.

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It's got a little blade in, which, if I line it up

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with this edge of the fabric

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as I go around, will stitch a very set distance.

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But sewing a curve with an edge stitch foot isn't easy.

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Everyone is going so slowly.

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God!

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You think, oh yeah, I'll get a nice smooth edge on this,

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and I'm not getting a nice smooth edge. I'll persevere.

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Occasionally I have to lift the foot and pivot it.

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Know what? This foot doesn't actually work with this because of the curves.

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Oh!

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What are you doing?

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I'm just unpicking this bit of topstitching I did

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-because I used the edge foot.

-OK.

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When you get to a curve, it was pushing it closer to the edge

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so here I was a beautiful distance away

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but then I got round to this curve and it was

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about down to two millimetres and it just wasn't right.

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What foot are you going to use now?

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I'm just going to use the regular foot and take it slowly.

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Little one.

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Damn!

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Spotted a hole. Just let me correct that.

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Right, calm down, stop panicking, it won't get you anywhere.

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Oh, come on.

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I can't present this unfinished

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and I certainly can't do it with a hole in it, either.

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Sewers, please don't hurt me because you actually have sharp objects

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but you only have half an hour left. Be quick.

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Concentrate, concentrate, concentrate.

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I don't normally panic but I am now panicking.

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The topstitching, I'm not particularly happy with

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because it's not even.

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I've done the best I can.

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I'm fairly happy, I think.

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I'd be happier if I could get this basting stitch out.

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I'm now starting to worry about the time.

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Because I've still got my zip to do and my back seam and my waist.

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There's a notch.

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Right, I think I've got them all.

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That's fixed the hole.

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Right, zip, zip, zip, zip.

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I'm trying to pick the right colour zip.

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No, no, no, no.

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Come on, you.

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Sewers, 15 minutes left.

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At the minute, my technique for sewing in an invisible zip

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is whack it in as fast as you can.

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Oh, what a perfect zip!

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I've got to say that. Give myself a bit of a boost.

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Jade, is the zip in?

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Zip's in. I'm just sewing up the back seam.

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Put the waistband on, turn it to the inside,

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sew these little ends over and then topstitch it.

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The pressure is on, hands are shaking.

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It's going to be some speedy sewing.

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Come on!

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Sewers, you have five minutes left.

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Needle!

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Charlotte, those two, are they meant to match?

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-At the back?

-Yeah.

-Yeah.

-Oh, it doesn't.

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-Joyce?

-Yes?

-What are you doing?

-I'm just tidying up a bit.

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Why does it do weird things there?

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Is it meant to do weird things there?

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I'm just going to clip a couple of these seams

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to see if that will help it lie a bit flatter.

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-What is that?

-I don't know.

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-Nothing to see, nothing to see.

-(Pass me the scissors.)

-Avert your eyes.

-(Scissors!)

-Quickly!

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Just needs clipping.

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If I came first in this, it would be a miracle.

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Sewers, you have one minute.

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-Jade has already got hers on the mannequin.

-Hello!

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Tracey, good girl.

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Not happy with the zip. I've got a little bit of a show.

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I don't like the topstitching.

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OK, sewers, that is time. Time is up.

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Right.

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Please bring your mannequins up to the front and the judges will judge.

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Four contemporary Japanese flared skirts in just 3.5 hours.

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Charlotte, you're up first.

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Well, the first thing to say is, well done.

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I like the way this drapes.

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-It seems like it's got...

-Yes.

-..a nice, natural fall to it.

0:18:250:18:28

We can see that there is a lovely,

0:18:280:18:30

smooth curve all the way around this seam.

0:18:300:18:34

What you have done is just give us a little bit too much in that seam.

0:18:340:18:40

-OK.

-Yes, but it's very neat and even all the way round.

0:18:400:18:44

The invisible zip, there's no lumps, there's no tape

0:18:440:18:48

showing or teeth showing and it meets very nicely at the top.

0:18:480:18:52

-I like it.

-Thank you.

0:18:520:18:54

Something's happened here because it is not draping as it should,

0:19:010:19:05

so I think somewhere or other,

0:19:050:19:07

you haven't matched the notches up properly.

0:19:070:19:09

It's relatively neat through the front

0:19:090:19:11

-but you're perilously close to the edge.

-In a few places, yeah.

0:19:110:19:15

Also, we've got an extra row of stitching.

0:19:150:19:18

-That's where I tried to correct.

-Let's have a look at the zip.

0:19:180:19:21

-Not quite invisible.

-Not quite.

-We can see the tape here.

0:19:210:19:25

-We've got a bit of a poke there and it's pushing up at the top.

-Yep.

0:19:250:19:30

So, this is a much more sculptural fabric and because of that,

0:19:370:19:41

it's giving us more of this weight, which I like.

0:19:410:19:45

They are folding in a lovely soft way.

0:19:450:19:47

How did you find sewing this fabric?

0:19:470:19:49

Sewing the fabric was fine,

0:19:490:19:51

it was this topstitching here with the edge foot.

0:19:510:19:55

It just seemed to drag.

0:19:550:19:56

When you've topstitched it, it has pulled it slightly up.

0:19:560:19:59

-It's such a shame.

-Mm.

0:19:590:20:01

Cos actually, these darts are really nicely shaped.

0:20:010:20:04

They're very well pressed out. The zip, completely invisible.

0:20:040:20:07

No bump at the bottom.

0:20:070:20:09

This is all very nicely sewn.

0:20:090:20:11

-It's just that darn thing in the middle.

-It is.

-Yep.

0:20:110:20:14

Right, Jade. Can you see at the front how this is sticking out?

0:20:210:20:27

Well, it should be folding in.

0:20:270:20:30

I think if you'd sewn this more accurately,

0:20:300:20:33

-that wouldn't have happened.

-OK.

-The bottom edge is quite clean.

0:20:330:20:36

You have got quite a nice, smooth bottom edge.

0:20:360:20:39

-The zip is very cleanly in.

-Your topstitching's not bad.

0:20:390:20:44

But this back isn't fitting together.

0:20:440:20:47

Yeah, I didn't realise I had to match them.

0:20:470:20:50

-I don't know why I didn't.

-What do you mean you didn't realise?

0:20:500:20:53

-Come on!

-It should have matched anyway.

0:20:530:20:56

If they were accurately cut.

0:20:560:20:57

It was very, very difficult to cut all of those curves,

0:20:570:20:59

we know that, which is why we set you this challenge.

0:20:590:21:03

Yeah. Can tell.

0:21:030:21:05

Patrick and Esme will now rank the skirts in order of their success.

0:21:060:21:10

THEY CONFER

0:21:110:21:13

In fourth place is Tracey.

0:21:170:21:21

Now, Tracey, your topstitching is uneven

0:21:210:21:25

and your zip didn't go on very well.

0:21:250:21:27

Third place, Jade.

0:21:270:21:28

-You just didn't have the accuracy we needed.

-Right.

0:21:280:21:32

In second place...

0:21:320:21:35

is Joyce.

0:21:350:21:37

Your topstitching on the yoke and the skirt wasn't perfect.

0:21:370:21:40

-But other than that, everything else about it was great.

-Thank you.

0:21:400:21:43

I'm happy with that.

0:21:430:21:45

Which means, in first place, Charlotte.

0:21:450:21:48

-CHEERS AND APPLAUSE

-Well done, Charlotte!

0:21:480:21:51

This challenge was about beautiful, flowing curves

0:21:510:21:55

and you delivered that absolutely and some very neat sewing to boot.

0:21:550:21:59

-Thank you.

-You guys can go off, have a cup of tea.

0:21:590:22:01

When you come back, the alteration challenge. Thank you very much.

0:22:010:22:04

Off you go.

0:22:040:22:06

# Don't be nice to me... #

0:22:060:22:10

It was a really hard challenge,

0:22:100:22:12

making those curves fit together in a way that they didn't want to do.

0:22:120:22:16

But it turned out all right. I'm really happy.

0:22:160:22:19

I made my prom dress, I made a ball gown,

0:22:190:22:21

but that beats a corset any day for complication.

0:22:210:22:25

That was nuts.

0:22:250:22:27

-I'm delighted with myself.

-LAUGHTER

0:22:270:22:29

I thought I was going to come fourth.

0:22:290:22:32

So I am very happy with second place.

0:22:320:22:34

Judging felt brutal. It was fair, but it was hard.

0:22:340:22:38

They're really looking at every little thing. No room for error now.

0:22:380:22:42

Having tested the semifinalists with a complicated pattern,

0:22:420:22:46

the judges now want to test their designer instincts with

0:22:460:22:50

a completely blank canvas.

0:22:500:22:53

-What I have for you today is...

-Ah!

0:22:530:22:56

-A duvet!

-..a child's duvet cover.

-Oh, right.

0:22:560:23:00

What we'd like you to do is transform this into a wearable

0:23:000:23:04

female garment, with a very striking silhouette.

0:23:040:23:07

You can make cuts into it, you can put darts into it, you can

0:23:070:23:10

gather it, whatever you want, to help create an exciting shape.

0:23:100:23:16

You are each being given half-size mannequins.

0:23:160:23:20

And a pillow case. So you can try it out in half-size.

0:23:200:23:25

Now, this is a zero-waste challenge.

0:23:250:23:30

You basically have to use the whole thing.

0:23:300:23:32

-Yes.

-Judges, thank you very much.

0:23:320:23:34

I'll take that cos one of them might like it.

0:23:340:23:37

So you've got 15 minutes with the mini mannequin, then 90 minutes.

0:23:370:23:41

Good luck. Off you go. Your time starts now.

0:23:410:23:43

-OK, ready?

-Come on, girls!

-LAUGHTER

0:23:470:23:50

You can't take us anywhere!

0:23:500:23:51

-Ooh! I quite like that!

-Oh, there's one on the floor, ladies.

0:23:510:23:54

-Can I have that, please, Claudia?

-I quite like that one.

0:23:540:23:57

-'Planning garments on a half-size mannequin...'

-OK, think. Think.

0:23:570:24:02

'..is a method used by many designers to develop ideas

0:24:020:24:05

'quickly, without wasting fabric.'

0:24:050:24:07

-OK, I'm done.

-SHE LAUGHS

0:24:070:24:10

No good looking at me, cos I haven't got a clue!

0:24:100:24:13

Er... Where's the pins?

0:24:130:24:15

Let me try pinning it, see if that helps me.

0:24:150:24:17

What I want them to do is to play, to be freer,

0:24:170:24:21

to do something different,

0:24:210:24:22

and then you can translate what you do on this into the full scale.

0:24:220:24:27

Yeah, it's only about sort of 50% smaller than you.

0:24:270:24:29

LAUGHTER

0:24:290:24:32

Oop!

0:24:320:24:33

It is quite refreshing to work like this because it's nice to

0:24:330:24:36

actually, in a way, sculpt something round the body.

0:24:360:24:39

You can get more imaginative with things like that.

0:24:390:24:42

Esme, I think, wants something slightly bonkers.

0:24:420:24:44

If we do something that's just like an ordinary dress or something,

0:24:440:24:47

-she'll be like, "Hm."

-I might go for something like that.

0:24:470:24:51

It's gathered at the top, pleated down the front and the back.

0:24:510:24:55

Right, I've cut my pillowcase in half,

0:24:550:24:58

so this is sort of a top and a skirt, more than a dress.

0:24:580:25:01

Oh, I know! I've had another idea.

0:25:010:25:03

I'm not putting the pleats on the inside.

0:25:030:25:06

I think I'll actually put them on the outside,

0:25:060:25:09

so they stick out like...fins.

0:25:090:25:12

I am making a dress.

0:25:130:25:14

I'm putting the stripe over and then I'm going to drape that up

0:25:140:25:19

and into a side bit to make a little bit of a thingy there.

0:25:190:25:24

It's asymmetric. I've got an arm hole here and a sideways neck thing.

0:25:260:25:29

-I love that.

-And a big back sleeve with a giant roll-up.

0:25:290:25:32

Yeah, I guess that's a sort of kimono sleeve, really.

0:25:320:25:34

-And I'm going to put a side zip.

-I'll leave it with you.

-Thank you.

0:25:340:25:37

-I'm happy with that.

-But that looks awesome. I think it's fantastic. OK.

0:25:370:25:41

Sewers, you've had 15 minutes.

0:25:430:25:45

You should now be moving on to your big mannequins.

0:25:450:25:48

Come here, my darling.

0:25:480:25:50

'Now the sewers have draped their design in mini form,

0:25:500:25:53

'they can recreate on the full-size mannequin.'

0:25:530:25:57

First thing I'm going to do is cut the head hole, which is

0:25:570:26:00

going to be in this corner.

0:26:000:26:02

It was sort of... Was it in the corner corner?

0:26:020:26:05

Or was it not in the corner corner?

0:26:050:26:08

-Right, that's the neck.

-I'm going to do some fin-type pleats.

0:26:080:26:13

The structure of them is quite architectural

0:26:130:26:16

and I think that's kind of what they're after.

0:26:160:26:19

My lad Robert's an architect

0:26:190:26:20

and he's just finished designing a building in Reading.

0:26:200:26:23

And it was full of fins.

0:26:230:26:25

Robert will think I've designed this in homage to his office

0:26:250:26:27

block in Reading.

0:26:270:26:29

I'm putting a dart in, it's just a bust dart,

0:26:290:26:31

otherwise it looks like you're wearing a duvet cover.

0:26:310:26:34

I want a bit of shaping.

0:26:340:26:35

I'm using these to make a drape across the front

0:26:350:26:39

and the same on the back.

0:26:390:26:41

I think to get that nice, flowy effect that I wanted to have,

0:26:410:26:44

I'm going to have to hand sew these down,

0:26:440:26:47

so I'll just catch them down nicely.

0:26:470:26:50

Sewers, you are halfway through this alteration semifinal.

0:26:500:26:54

I want to fashion pockets in there. Oh, I'll bring that up.

0:26:540:26:58

Oh, look at that!

0:26:580:27:00

The beach is the inspiration behind my dress,

0:27:010:27:04

where you want something with lots of pockets to put your book in,

0:27:040:27:07

your sunglasses in, your money for an ice cream.

0:27:070:27:12

-This is great fun, watching you sew.

-Thank you. Be privileged.

0:27:120:27:15

This is the most I've hand sewn in my four years of sewing.

0:27:150:27:19

-Is it?

-Yes.

-Are you into it?

-I hate hand sewing.

0:27:190:27:21

-Why?

-I don't know. It just takes forever.

0:27:210:27:24

I want this collar to stick up, so I'm going to put

0:27:240:27:26

a bit of boning in that seam, just there, just to hold that up.

0:27:260:27:30

I'm going to add boning to make shoulder pads

0:27:300:27:33

and hip...shelves, is the best description I can come up with.

0:27:330:27:39

Boning, bloody hell!

0:27:390:27:42

I can't believe you two are doing boning.

0:27:420:27:43

Can never get enough of boning!

0:27:430:27:46

I'm just going to pin it in for the moment. I'll sew it in a bit.

0:27:460:27:49

It's not quite as rigid as I want it. I wanted that.

0:27:490:27:52

How am are going to make them do that?

0:27:520:27:55

-Sewers, you have 15 minutes left.

-Blimey, Tracey! Pleats much?

0:27:550:28:00

Still get a couple more on.

0:28:000:28:01

-A couple more pleats?

-Can never have too many pleats, girls.

0:28:010:28:05

Do you not know that?

0:28:050:28:08

I'm going to go and get a zip for my side seam now.

0:28:080:28:10

Do we not have any ordinary zips?

0:28:100:28:12

Ah!

0:28:120:28:14

I'm not putting any fastenings on my dress because it's not required.

0:28:140:28:18

You don't have fastenings on a beach dress.

0:28:180:28:21

I might put poppers under the arms, there.

0:28:210:28:24

-MACHINE SHUDDERS

-Ooh, it didn't like that.

0:28:280:28:31

Sewers, you have five minutes left.

0:28:340:28:37

I don't know what I'm going to do with this. Why did I cut it off?

0:28:370:28:40

Use this as a binding because I can't throw it away.

0:28:400:28:43

-Put it in the bin.

-I can't throw it in the bin.

0:28:430:28:45

-Course you can. Put it in my trousers.

-That's cheating.

0:28:450:28:48

Not a bow! If they want a bow, they want it to dwarf it.

0:28:480:28:51

Just keep the hem the way it is, with the button holes

0:28:510:28:54

-and the buttons on them.

-I've done a hem on the front

0:28:540:28:57

and I've used the original hem on the back.

0:28:570:28:59

Well, they wanted structure, they've got structure.

0:29:030:29:06

Sewers, one minute left.

0:29:060:29:08

All right, sewers, that's it. End of the challenge.

0:29:200:29:22

Please bring your mannequins to the front.

0:29:220:29:25

# Tears on my pillow

0:29:250:29:28

# Pain in my heart

0:29:280:29:31

# Caused by you. #

0:29:310:29:35

From pillowcases to duvets to dresses, but what will Esme

0:29:350:29:38

and Patrick make of the semifinalists' transformations?

0:29:380:29:42

-I'm massively impressed.

-Me, too.

0:29:420:29:44

Just to be clear, you asked for this to be a zero-waste challenge.

0:29:440:29:48

No part of any of the duvets found its way in the bin.

0:29:480:29:52

-I think this is probably the most normal, in terms of its shape.

-Yes.

0:29:550:29:59

-But it is a flattering shape.

-It's quite Grecian, isn't it?

0:29:590:30:02

It's very Grecian.

0:30:020:30:03

-It might be a little bit revealing.

-A touch!

0:30:030:30:07

I think these pleats are really well managed.

0:30:070:30:10

They create a very pleasing shape.

0:30:100:30:12

It looks like these pleats are hand done.

0:30:120:30:15

And the zip will help to loosen the waist.

0:30:150:30:18

-Yep.

-So that's been very well thought out.

0:30:180:30:20

They've kept the original hem. Still got buttons on the bottom!

0:30:200:30:24

Yeah, but then you could do it up between your legs and you'd have...

0:30:240:30:28

-You could have a jumpsuit.

-Yes.

-A pants suit.

0:30:280:30:30

-Yeah.

-Yeah, great.

-I think it's really good.

0:30:300:30:33

-A top and a skirt.

-Guess what we've got here. Boning.

0:30:360:30:41

To make it stick out.

0:30:410:30:43

At the side, we've got the poppers.

0:30:430:30:46

Which allows us in, cos actually, we've got

0:30:460:30:48

quite a small opening at the top.

0:30:480:30:51

I think what's lovely about this is that it's a very geometric

0:30:510:30:55

pattern and they've created a very structured sort of geometric

0:30:550:31:00

form out of it.

0:31:000:31:01

They've used the pleats really cleverly to give us

0:31:010:31:04

all of this cinching at the waist.

0:31:040:31:06

And I like how the pattern has been mixed up.

0:31:060:31:09

I think they've done a very good job on this. It's clever.

0:31:090:31:12

So, this one, I think, has been folded in half

0:31:160:31:19

and then the other side has been turned in to the drapes.

0:31:190:31:24

Let's have a look at the back.

0:31:240:31:26

A sort of pleat detail that's running diagonally around the body.

0:31:270:31:31

-Yes.

-I think it's definitely wearable.

0:31:310:31:34

I'm just not sure it's the most flattering shape,

0:31:340:31:38

with these bits at the sort of hips.

0:31:390:31:42

It just feels a little heavy, but it is bold.

0:31:420:31:46

It could be a cover up for on the beach.

0:31:460:31:48

-Now, this one looks great.

-Brilliantly clever.

0:31:540:31:56

I think the thought that's gone into the placement of all of this

0:31:560:32:00

pattern is really smart.

0:32:000:32:02

They've used the checks on the angles

0:32:020:32:04

and I also think the shape is very cool and very, very striking.

0:32:040:32:08

It has this sort of belt feature that feels very Japanese.

0:32:080:32:11

We've even got a little dart here.

0:32:110:32:14

There's one thing, and I'm really nitpicking here,

0:32:140:32:17

I would have liked this knot to have been bigger.

0:32:170:32:20

I love that you're at that level of critique for this garment!

0:32:200:32:25

-Which, I think, shows how much you like it.

-Yes, exactly.

0:32:250:32:28

Esme and Patrick will now decide whose duvet transformation is

0:32:280:32:32

the most impressive.

0:32:320:32:34

In fourth place, it is the striped kind of poncho number. Joyce.

0:32:340:32:40

To me,

0:32:400:32:41

just lacked some of the lightness that some of the others had.

0:32:410:32:44

In third place is this Grecian number here.

0:32:440:32:48

We really liked it, but it's not quite as imaginative as those two.

0:32:480:32:54

In second place...

0:32:540:32:55

The pink pleats.

0:32:580:33:00

Fantastic.

0:33:000:33:02

I mean, really genuinely lovely and a great, striking garment.

0:33:020:33:05

-Thank you.

-Well done.

0:33:050:33:07

In first place is the black and white one.

0:33:070:33:11

CHEERS AND APPLAUSE

0:33:110:33:13

First place for the second time today.

0:33:130:33:16

You have absolutely transformed the duvet into a garment

0:33:160:33:20

-in a really imaginative way. Well done.

-Thank you.

0:33:200:33:23

Well done, all of you. I know it was a difficult day.

0:33:230:33:26

Tomorrow's going to be really easy.

0:33:260:33:28

It's not, I'm lying.

0:33:280:33:30

But go home, relax, have a good night's sleep,

0:33:300:33:33

we'll see you tomorrow for the big made to measure challenge.

0:33:330:33:37

I've always been creative in a two-dimensional way,

0:33:380:33:41

like with quilting and so on.

0:33:410:33:43

But I've never really been able to translate

0:33:430:33:46

that into three-dimensional things before.

0:33:460:33:49

This challenge really unlocked that side of things.

0:33:490:33:51

Really loved it.

0:33:510:33:53

I'm looking forward to tomorrow more than

0:33:530:33:56

I was looking forward to today.

0:33:560:33:58

At least I know what I'm sewing.

0:33:580:34:00

Tonight, I'll probably go to sleep, dreaming about it, wake up,

0:34:000:34:02

dreaming about it.

0:34:020:34:04

Coming third in both challenges definitely puts me

0:34:040:34:07

in a bit of a vulnerable position.

0:34:070:34:09

I will come in with swords, scissors,

0:34:090:34:13

whatever it takes for me to get into the final.

0:34:130:34:16

Second and fourth, it's not good. It could have been fourth and fourth,

0:34:160:34:22

which would have been even worse.

0:34:220:34:24

-JOYCE:

-Here we go, girls.

0:34:340:34:35

One more challenge to go, one last chance to convince the judges

0:34:350:34:39

they deserve to be a finalist.

0:34:390:34:41

Barring an absolute disaster,

0:34:410:34:43

Charlotte's pretty much booked herself a place in the final.

0:34:430:34:46

Let's talk about Joyce.

0:34:460:34:48

You did like her skirt, but you didn't really love her alterations.

0:34:480:34:52

This is just a rectangle, isn't it,

0:34:520:34:54

with a bit of drape bunged on the top.

0:34:540:34:56

Let's discuss Tracey.

0:34:560:34:58

I thought it was a great alteration.

0:34:580:35:00

-The yoked skirt, I was disappointed with.

-How do you feel about Jade?

0:35:000:35:04

You liked the grey dress, but the skirt, you said there were problems.

0:35:040:35:07

-She bodged it, basically.

-Yeah.

0:35:070:35:09

Today's challenge is a new one for us.

0:35:090:35:12

It's tackling something that we've not put in front of them before

0:35:120:35:16

and hopefully, it gives us a way of separating three very,

0:35:160:35:19

very even sewers.

0:35:190:35:20

I'm looking forward to this.

0:35:200:35:22

Morning. You all right, love?

0:35:230:35:25

Welcome, sewers. And welcome back to our lovely models.

0:35:250:35:30

For your semifinal made to measure challenge,

0:35:300:35:33

the judges would love you to make a beautifully fitted day dress,

0:35:330:35:38

but as it's pattern week, you will be creating your own pattern.

0:35:380:35:45

-Are you all ready?

-Yes.

-Yes.

0:35:450:35:46

Enormous luck. You have seven hours. Your time starts now.

0:35:460:35:49

The sewers have had a chance to practise creating their day

0:35:520:35:55

dresses at home.

0:35:550:35:57

OK...

0:35:570:35:58

But their first task in this final challenge is unlike anything

0:35:580:36:02

they've faced so far.

0:36:020:36:03

Basically, they're starting from what is called the block.

0:36:030:36:07

The block, essentially, is a template.

0:36:070:36:10

-If they took this, stitched it together, they'd have this.

-Right.

0:36:100:36:14

But what we've asked them to do is take this block

0:36:140:36:16

and dramatically transform it.

0:36:160:36:18

They can do absolutely anything with this.

0:36:180:36:21

They can create any shape, any length, any sleeves,

0:36:210:36:23

but this just allows them to start with the basic building block.

0:36:230:36:28

The idea is that we alter this block,

0:36:280:36:31

so they don't all look the same.

0:36:310:36:33

I think we'll all produce something

0:36:330:36:34

quite dramatically different, really.

0:36:340:36:36

This challenge is about designing,

0:36:360:36:38

as well as making the actual garment itself.

0:36:380:36:41

You start with a block, you can make anything,

0:36:410:36:44

by manipulating the position of the darts, by adding bits on,

0:36:440:36:49

by adding collars or sleeves or changing the shape of the skirt.

0:36:490:36:52

You can do anything.

0:36:520:36:54

I'm making a very kind of '50s style dress cos it's

0:36:540:36:58

the sort of thing I would like and I would wear.

0:36:580:37:01

To adapt her block into a '50s design, Tracey's adding

0:37:010:37:04

a cinched waistband, under bust gathers and a circular skirt.

0:37:040:37:07

The V-neck will have a statement collar

0:37:070:37:10

and the three-quarter length sleeves will have matching cuffs.

0:37:100:37:13

Collar and the cuffs will take quite a bit of time cos I want them

0:37:130:37:16

to be really, really neat and perfect.

0:37:160:37:19

And this fitted band across the middle, we'll take up in fitting.

0:37:190:37:22

I've definitely got to prove myself today.

0:37:220:37:23

I've definitely got to get this right.

0:37:230:37:27

The block pattern has a sleeve on it.

0:37:270:37:29

I've decided to take the sleeve out because the style of dress

0:37:290:37:32

that I wanted to go for was more of a summer dress.

0:37:320:37:35

Jade's sleeveless dress will also have cut out

0:37:350:37:37

sections on the back bodice, with a flared skater skirt.

0:37:370:37:41

I have never worked from a block before. So this is very new to me.

0:37:410:37:47

The dress I'm making,

0:37:470:37:49

it's fitted from the bust to just above the hips, then it flares out.

0:37:490:37:53

For a Christmas present,

0:37:530:37:55

my husband and I were given afternoon tea at a Brighton hotel.

0:37:550:37:59

You dress up and you look pretty.

0:37:590:38:01

So that's my inspiration.

0:38:010:38:02

Joyce's tea dress will be cut from eight princess seamed panels

0:38:020:38:06

that follow the curves of the body.

0:38:060:38:08

She's adding a V-shape neckline, large contrast collar, and hem band.

0:38:080:38:12

This is my front.

0:38:140:38:16

So, you made this from the block.

0:38:160:38:19

Yes, I did.

0:38:190:38:21

What I did was, because it's continuous and the block

0:38:210:38:24

came in your bodice and your skirt, I taped them together.

0:38:240:38:28

I then, on the skirt, added 12 inches in length and then four

0:38:280:38:34

inches in width because I wanted a bit of fullness at the bottom.

0:38:340:38:37

OK.

0:38:370:38:40

I am making a dress with a cowl neck,

0:38:400:38:43

so it's nice and drapey at the front.

0:38:430:38:46

I've opened up extra, way more than was there before.

0:38:460:38:50

And that will make the cowl neck.

0:38:500:38:52

I'll cut this out again without the spaces in it, obviously.

0:38:520:38:56

Charlotte's also extending the shoulder length of her bodice

0:38:560:38:59

to create a dropped shoulder.

0:38:590:39:01

She's adding a fitted waistband and flared A-line skirt.

0:39:010:39:05

Are you inside going, "I'm going to give about 50% of myself to

0:39:060:39:11

"this because I've already won twice and I'm going through"?

0:39:110:39:14

I've going for the three-for.

0:39:140:39:16

The three-for!

0:39:160:39:17

-The hat-trick.

-Well, why not?

0:39:170:39:20

# Plant a little seed and watch it grow. #

0:39:200:39:23

It's crucial the sewers continue measuring their models,

0:39:230:39:26

as they adapt the block,

0:39:260:39:28

as any design changes could totally alter the fit.

0:39:280:39:32

But Jade's taking an extra precaution.

0:39:320:39:35

A toile is basically your dress, but in a cheaper fabric.

0:39:350:39:39

I want to make sure it fits her perfectly, so any tweaks that

0:39:390:39:44

I'll need to make can be done on the toile, rather than the real thing.

0:39:440:39:49

Tracey has also decided to spend time on making a toile.

0:39:490:39:52

The fit is obviously something that's been a weakness.

0:39:520:39:55

I'm very used to fitting things on myself.

0:39:550:39:58

I really need to be careful of that today.

0:39:580:40:00

I am not making a toile. I am just going to go for it with the fabric.

0:40:000:40:04

I think I'm doing enough measurements as I go along.

0:40:040:40:07

I'm worried about Tracey's fit.

0:40:070:40:09

It just seems like she's completely miss-measured the busts.

0:40:090:40:13

-Yes.

-Because it's nowhere near where it should be.

0:40:130:40:16

Thank God, she made a toile.

0:40:160:40:19

The only times I make toiles are when I make wedding dresses,

0:40:190:40:22

and I've made one, my daughter's.

0:40:220:40:25

I've made a seam allowance, as such, where I can adjust.

0:40:250:40:28

So that's my thinking.

0:40:280:40:29

What do you think?

0:40:310:40:33

Well, I think the back's OK, but this is not long enough.

0:40:330:40:35

I can see now that it's not long enough to go over her bust.

0:40:350:40:39

-Think about your basic measurements.

-I want that there.

0:40:390:40:42

So how am are going to make that longer and that still be there?

0:40:420:40:45

-No, I'm confused now.

-Yeah.

-That's now going to be too low.

0:40:450:40:48

No, I want it to be V-shaped.

0:40:480:40:50

I want it lower here than it is in the middle.

0:40:500:40:53

I'm not happy with the way they are bagging.

0:40:550:40:58

It definitely does need taking in in places and sorting out.

0:40:580:41:02

I need to alter the front.

0:41:020:41:03

It didn't feel tricky when I made one for myself.

0:41:030:41:06

I don't know why it's getting so complicated now.

0:41:060:41:10

-Two-and-a-half hours gone. Are you worried about time?

-No.

0:41:100:41:14

-Says me.

-Yeah, we'll speak in a couple of hours.

-Come on.

0:41:140:41:17

-I'll do your back.

-Ah!

-I'll do your back.

0:41:170:41:19

-While you're relaxed, let me ask you this.

-Yes, go on.

0:41:190:41:22

-How much do you want to be a finalist?

-Oh, so much, it's...

0:41:220:41:25

Now you've made me all tense again!

0:41:250:41:27

Whilst Jade and Tracey are still fitting their toiles,

0:41:280:41:32

Charlotte and Joyce start constructing their dresses.

0:41:320:41:35

This is the front bodice.

0:41:350:41:37

The fabric is absolutely key to this design because you need

0:41:370:41:40

something with a lot of drape to make the cowl neck work.

0:41:400:41:42

If you had something that was a bit stiff, it would

0:41:420:41:45

just sort of sit there and it wouldn't look attractive at all.

0:41:450:41:48

The fabric I'm using for my dress is 100% linen. I just love that fabric.

0:41:480:41:52

The colours are so me.

0:41:520:41:53

So, tell me, where have you got to?

0:41:560:41:59

I have sewn my bodice front, gathered it to the waistband.

0:41:590:42:04

Oh, right, OK.

0:42:040:42:06

I guess you haven't fitted it.

0:42:060:42:08

I've checked the size of the waistband.

0:42:080:42:10

I haven't fitted it, as such.

0:42:100:42:12

-I was going to fit it once I got the bodice together.

-OK.

0:42:120:42:16

Does it feel too tight now?

0:42:160:42:18

-No.

-No?

0:42:180:42:20

I'm much happier with that. We're good to go.

0:42:200:42:24

Happy with the fit on their toiles, Jade and Tracey

0:42:240:42:27

can finally begin cutting their fabric.

0:42:270:42:29

I've got a wine coloured cotton spandex that just stretches

0:42:290:42:32

a little bit, which means that this fitted area across here will be nice

0:42:320:42:36

and snug and then I've got a nice print that I'm going to use

0:42:360:42:39

for the collar and cuff sections.

0:42:390:42:41

I am glad I did a toile because the back piece needed to be

0:42:410:42:44

basically reshaped for the way that her back is.

0:42:440:42:47

Please fit, please fit, please fit.

0:42:470:42:50

Please fit, or I will cry.

0:42:500:42:52

Oh, dear. It's huge.

0:42:520:42:53

Why is there all this here? Damn it.

0:42:530:42:55

Damn it, damn it, damn it. Bloody hell.

0:42:550:42:59

It's almost like it need another dart in it.

0:42:590:43:02

I quite like it. It's loose there.

0:43:020:43:04

Don't really want to take it in any more but I can do.

0:43:040:43:08

I tell you what, we'll do the rest first

0:43:080:43:10

and then we'll make a decision.

0:43:100:43:12

I intended to make those darts bigger in the back

0:43:120:43:14

and then I think we'll be all right.

0:43:140:43:16

Can you spin round to the front?

0:43:160:43:19

It fits you amazingly in the front.

0:43:220:43:25

-I think that's beautiful, Jade. Beautiful.

-Yeah?

0:43:250:43:28

Beautiful.

0:43:280:43:30

-Oh, that looks great, Tracey.

-That looks all right?

-Lovely.

0:43:300:43:33

Much happier with that, compared to this morning.

0:43:330:43:36

If they're happy with the fit of their bodice,

0:43:360:43:39

the sewers can move on to their skirts.

0:43:390:43:41

This is what the skirt block looked like.

0:43:410:43:44

So this is now, instead of being a pencil skirt, which is

0:43:440:43:47

what it would have been, before I opened up this space,

0:43:470:43:49

it's now going to be much fuller.

0:43:490:43:51

I've done a skater skirt where it's like nice at the waist

0:43:510:43:55

and flares out, so that's my type of skirt that I like to wear.

0:43:550:43:59

-Tracey, what are you doing?

-I'm doing pi.

-Why?

0:43:590:44:03

Well, because I'm making a circle skirt.

0:44:030:44:05

Why have you got to use pi to make a circle skirt?

0:44:050:44:08

-Because I need to draw a pattern for it.

-My head's going to explode!

0:44:080:44:11

I need to use pi to work out the circumference.

0:44:110:44:13

When they teach you pi at school, you think,

0:44:130:44:16

"I am never going to use pi in my life.

0:44:160:44:18

"Why are they bothering to teach me this?" And now, I've got to use pi.

0:44:180:44:21

Jade has also set herself a challenge with her skirt.

0:44:210:44:24

I'm going to pattern match here, so that will join on to there.

0:44:240:44:28

Like that.

0:44:280:44:30

So it will only pattern match mainly on these two.

0:44:300:44:33

And if I can, maybe on those ones there.

0:44:330:44:38

I am now doing the collar

0:44:380:44:41

and because I have chosen to do the underside

0:44:410:44:45

and the fabric of the dress, I'm going

0:44:450:44:47

to have to be careful that the underside doesn't show.

0:44:470:44:51

And how I hopefully get over that is make the upper collar

0:44:510:44:55

slightly baggier and it rolls over a fraction.

0:44:550:44:59

This is one of my four collar sections.

0:44:590:45:03

This is definitely a statement collar.

0:45:030:45:05

I want it to be really pointed.

0:45:050:45:08

While everyone else works on their collar...

0:45:080:45:12

I'm just trying to get this one to sit in the right place,

0:45:120:45:16

which at the moment, isn't wanting to.

0:45:160:45:19

..Jade is still pattern matching.

0:45:190:45:22

So I think we'll take that down an inch there, don't you?

0:45:220:45:25

Driving me nuts.

0:45:280:45:29

These are my sleeves and my cuffs.

0:45:330:45:35

I'm just going to attach the cuff to the sleeve.

0:45:350:45:37

-Yeah, I don't think that's bad.

-You might have to give me

0:45:390:45:42

a second cos I have to get my head round this bit!

0:45:420:45:45

I'm really worried you're going to give yourself a headache.

0:45:470:45:51

I've already given myself one.

0:45:510:45:53

-Yeah, but I think you can't be pernickety at this point.

-I can!

0:45:530:45:57

-All right. OK. Semifinal.

-Exactly!

0:45:570:45:59

-Sewers, I'm really sorry, you have half an hour left.

-Gordon Bennett!

0:46:010:46:05

Somebody's watch is fast!

0:46:050:46:07

My pattern matching isn't perfect perfect,

0:46:070:46:09

the way I would like it to be.

0:46:090:46:10

The teardrops are obviously a lot smaller.

0:46:100:46:13

But I'm not. I'm doing it again.

0:46:130:46:15

I've not got time, if I want to get a zip in.

0:46:150:46:18

That is half an invisible zip.

0:46:180:46:20

I'm making the sashes that go inside of the dress.

0:46:250:46:29

The easiest way to turn out a really long tube of something is to

0:46:300:46:34

sew a length of ribbon inside.

0:46:340:46:36

There it is. See it coming out now?

0:46:370:46:39

There we go. And then we just cut the ribbon off.

0:46:420:46:45

I'm just trying to work out what the length of the dress should be.

0:46:450:46:49

-I think something like that.

-Could you turn just a tiny bit?

0:46:490:46:54

Turn round slowly.

0:46:540:46:56

Stop. Go back again.

0:46:560:46:57

I'm going to bi-spine the hem,

0:46:590:47:00

just because I think it will give it a really nice effect.

0:47:000:47:03

I'm going to do a narrow hem. You fold it over, stitch it,

0:47:030:47:07

then trim it really close to the stitching, fold it over again.

0:47:070:47:10

A hem like this would normally take at least half an hour

0:47:100:47:13

-and I haven't got half an hour.

-Do you think we'll all finish?

-Yeah.

0:47:130:47:16

-Skin of my teeth, but yeah.

-I'll just have to get on with it.

0:47:160:47:19

We all thought we had loads of time.

0:47:190:47:21

A circle skirt and I'm still hemming for ever and ever and ever.

0:47:210:47:25

I will get it finished!

0:47:250:47:27

Not having any nonsense.

0:47:280:47:30

Sewers, you have five minutes left.

0:47:300:47:32

Right, breathe.

0:47:320:47:34

Should have enough time. I just need to stop my hands shaking.

0:47:390:47:42

Where did that go?!

0:47:420:47:44

You're kidding me. How did I not notice that?

0:47:440:47:47

I've got a pucker in the back seam.

0:47:470:47:49

Tracey, you're the only one sewing.

0:47:560:47:58

Everyone else is having a little press.

0:47:580:48:00

-Do I need to come there and watch you cry?

-No, I'm ready to press.

0:48:000:48:04

Right.

0:48:060:48:08

All right?

0:48:090:48:11

There you go.

0:48:110:48:13

-Come on, Charlotte!

-You go that way, I go this way.

-How does it feel?

0:48:130:48:17

-Yeah.

-Happy?

-Yeah.

-That's your pattern!

0:48:170:48:20

-Yeah!

-Come on, Tracey!

-I'm just ironing my model!

0:48:200:48:23

That's it.

0:48:240:48:27

-Time is up. A huge well done to all of you.

-Water! Water!

0:48:270:48:31

Water!

0:48:310:48:33

# Love me in the daytime

0:48:330:48:35

# Love me in the night-time

0:48:350:48:37

# Any time you love me

0:48:370:48:39

# Baby, that'll be the right time.

0:48:390:48:41

# Put your arms around me

0:48:430:48:45

# When the lights are low

0:48:450:48:48

# Never ever gonna get enough of you. #

0:48:480:48:52

Charlotte, I think this dress is a delight.

0:48:550:48:58

Watching it move, there's a lightness, an elegance,

0:48:580:49:01

a bounce to it.

0:49:010:49:03

You've completely transformed the block.

0:49:030:49:05

It has a kind of romantic feel to it, somehow. It's kind of sexy.

0:49:050:49:10

It's a really good choice of fabric.

0:49:100:49:12

The drape is very soft, not too high and not too low.

0:49:120:49:17

If we can just turn you round...

0:49:170:49:20

This drape here maybe could have been got rid of if you'd

0:49:200:49:23

shaped the armholes slightly and the dart is really, really long.

0:49:230:49:28

But you really understood your model's body shape.

0:49:280:49:32

I think the waist is absolutely in the perfect position.

0:49:320:49:35

I think the length of the skirt feels perfectly right.

0:49:350:49:39

-The hem looks really neat.

-It looks great.

-It looks great.

-Thank you.

0:49:390:49:44

# With the parting of the ways

0:49:460:49:49

# You took all my happy days

0:49:490:49:52

# And left me lonely nights. #

0:49:520:49:56

Right, Tracey. You've also transformed the block.

0:49:560:50:00

You've put all the shape into this waistband here

0:50:000:50:03

-and in to the gathers here.

-Yeah.

0:50:030:50:06

And this fits so much better than your toile did.

0:50:060:50:09

It's a good choice of fabric, it's a good combination. I'm a little...

0:50:090:50:13

I don't know what it is about the collar.

0:50:130:50:16

It feels a little heavy.

0:50:160:50:18

Maybe if you'd made the neck slightly wider

0:50:180:50:21

and the front slightly lower, it would have given it more lightness.

0:50:210:50:26

One other slight fit issue.

0:50:260:50:28

There's just a little bit too much fullness here.

0:50:280:50:31

But the cuffs on the sleeve are crisp, they're well pressed,

0:50:310:50:36

they're well sewn.

0:50:360:50:38

There is a lot of very precise sewing in this garment, so

0:50:380:50:41

-I think you should be extremely pleased with yourself.

-Thank you.

0:50:410:50:45

# Doo doo-dee ooh doo-dee ooh

0:50:470:50:50

# Doo-dee ooh-dee-ooh

0:50:500:50:52

# Doo doo-dee ooh doo-dee ooh

0:50:520:50:53

# Doo-dee ooh-dee-ooh. #

0:50:530:50:55

You've taken the block and you've turned it into one, two,

0:50:550:50:58

-three, four... Eight panels?

-Yes.

-You've done a good job there.

0:50:580:51:02

-Thank you.

-I would like it a little bit more nipped in at the waist.

0:51:020:51:07

It just looks ever so slightly straight.

0:51:070:51:11

I'd like very much the idea of the band at the bottom

0:51:110:51:13

and then it's echoed in the collar at the top.

0:51:130:51:16

Whether it should be smaller... Let's do that.

0:51:160:51:19

Yeah, maybe.

0:51:190:51:21

But one thing I like a lot about this collar is if we look here, we

0:51:210:51:25

can see how it's rolling round and that is how you should cut a collar.

0:51:250:51:30

So that is successful.

0:51:300:51:32

The sleeves, I think, are very, very neatly inserted.

0:51:320:51:38

The fit is just a little nibble away from bang on for me,

0:51:380:51:42

but I think you should be very pleased with that.

0:51:420:51:45

Thank you.

0:51:450:51:46

# O meu ganza faz chica chica boom chic

0:51:460:51:50

# P'ra eu cantar o chica chica boom chic. #

0:51:500:51:54

The overall impression is really striking.

0:51:550:51:58

You've made a really good choice of fabric.

0:51:580:52:01

I think these fabrics work together very well.

0:52:010:52:04

You've thought carefully about how the pattern runs down through

0:52:040:52:08

the centre and this runs all the way, absolutely dead centrally.

0:52:080:52:12

-You haven't managed to match it up across the waist.

-No.

0:52:120:52:15

That has got a point on and this is the point chopped off.

0:52:150:52:20

-Yeah.

-If we can just turn you round,

0:52:200:52:23

you had a lot to do to get these back triangles fitting as well,

0:52:230:52:27

and you've done that extremely well,

0:52:270:52:29

but I think the time you've spent doing that

0:52:290:52:32

is time that you've not had

0:52:320:52:33

to get the small of the back fitting nicely.

0:52:330:52:36

It is just too big there.

0:52:360:52:38

But the proportion of this dress is just right.

0:52:380:52:43

I think you understand how it all needs to look,

0:52:430:52:45

-and you've delivered on that really successfully.

-Thank you.

0:52:450:52:49

I was determined I was going to show something

0:52:550:52:57

different to the judges and I think I have,

0:52:570:52:59

'I've shown a more creative side of myself.'

0:52:590:53:02

'As hard as it was'

0:53:020:53:04

and as gruelling as it seemed, I did enjoy it

0:53:040:53:07

and I think I produced one of the best fitted garments I've ever made.

0:53:070:53:11

'After all these years of sewing, and believe me,'

0:53:110:53:14

I have been sewing for a number of years,

0:53:140:53:16

it would be absolutely amazing if I was in the final three.

0:53:160:53:20

It would actually be a pinnacle for me.

0:53:200:53:23

I think all four of us were all very nervous to go back in,

0:53:230:53:26

because we're that close to getting into the final.

0:53:260:53:30

I think I'd rather stay out here

0:53:300:53:31

and everyone can shout out the window to me and tell me that way.

0:53:310:53:35

First up, shall we discuss garment of the week?

0:53:360:53:39

Who are the contenders?

0:53:390:53:41

Jade, Charlotte, from the made-to-measure.

0:53:410:53:45

But also, Charlotte's alteration.

0:53:450:53:49

I think this is one of the best alterations we've seen

0:53:490:53:52

on Sewing Bee.

0:53:520:53:53

So therefore, I presume Charlotte and Jade are both finalists.

0:53:530:53:58

-Yes.

-Yes.

0:53:580:54:00

Then you have to really think

0:54:000:54:02

about whether it's going to be Joyce or Tracey.

0:54:020:54:05

Do you want to first start off and talk about their very difficult

0:54:050:54:08

-patent challenge? Joyce did this red...

-Mm.

0:54:080:54:12

..and Tracey came fourth with her purple.

0:54:120:54:15

-Joyce's was more expertly sewn on the whole.

-Yes.

0:54:150:54:18

Tracey's was a bit ragged.

0:54:180:54:20

Yes, it wasn't precise enough.

0:54:200:54:22

But then Tracey gave us, in the alteration challenge,

0:54:220:54:25

-something really imaginative...

-Yes.

-..that really fulfilled the brief.

0:54:250:54:30

And Joyce's was a little bit, sort of lacklustre.

0:54:300:54:33

She hadn't transformed the duvet. It's still a rectangle.

0:54:330:54:37

-Then it comes down to their made-to-measure.

-I think it does.

0:54:370:54:41

And both were pretty competently handled. Both are well sewn.

0:54:410:54:46

Both of them transformed the block.

0:54:460:54:48

This is...

0:54:480:54:50

very difficult and I think we need to have another look

0:54:500:54:54

-and take a little more time over this decision.

-Yes. Yes, absolutely.

0:54:540:54:58

Firstly,

0:55:080:55:09

thank you so much for giving us such a brilliant semifinal.

0:55:090:55:13

We know how difficult it was.

0:55:130:55:16

The first bit's the lovely bit -

0:55:160:55:18

the garment that impressed the judges the most.

0:55:180:55:22

So, our garment of the week this week, is...

0:55:230:55:27

LAUGHTER

0:55:300:55:32

Well done, Charlotte!

0:55:320:55:35

-No way!

-Told you!

-That is insane.

0:55:350:55:37

This was probably the best alteration I think we've seen.

0:55:370:55:41

You embraced it wholeheartedly and produced something fantastic.

0:55:410:55:46

Thank you, that is bonkers.

0:55:460:55:48

SHE LAUGHS You look so shocked.

0:55:480:55:51

-Did it not in the back of your head think...

-No!

-..maybe that?

0:55:510:55:54

Not in a million years!

0:55:540:55:56

Now the less lovely bit. We really don't want any of you...

0:55:570:56:02

to go.

0:56:020:56:03

But somebody has to.

0:56:040:56:06

And the person leaving us this week is...

0:56:060:56:11

We're so upset about it.

0:56:210:56:24

The person leaving is Tracey.

0:56:240:56:25

GASPS

0:56:250:56:27

Oh, Tracey, darling. Oh, sweetie.

0:56:270:56:30

I thought it was going to be me.

0:56:300:56:32

Clearly devastated, but I came here hoping to get through a few weeks,

0:56:320:56:38

I've got through seven weeks.

0:56:380:56:40

And I think, you know, I should be proud of that.

0:56:400:56:43

Can I cuddle you?

0:56:430:56:44

-I'm sorry.

-Thank you.

-I'm sorry.

0:56:440:56:47

I've done a lot of brilliant things,

0:56:470:56:49

met some fabulous people and it's, er, you know,

0:56:490:56:53

once-in-a-lifetime...experience.

0:56:530:56:56

And I'll not regret a minute of it.

0:56:560:56:58

You've been so great throughout all of it.

0:56:590:57:02

What I love about Tracey is she has embraced

0:57:020:57:05

every single challenge with such joy and openness

0:57:050:57:10

and that to me is why it's such a shame that she's had to go.

0:57:100:57:14

It's...gutting to see Tracey go.

0:57:160:57:18

I'm really going to miss her.

0:57:190:57:21

The sewing room won't be the same without her.

0:57:210:57:23

If I could take the time to congratulate our three finalists.

0:57:260:57:29

-Whoo!

-INDISTINCT

0:57:290:57:30

I'm very excited about the final,

0:57:300:57:32

because every week somebody really surprises me.

0:57:320:57:36

So I'm having no bets on who's going to win.

0:57:360:57:39

Do you know what? I'm just going to enjoy it.

0:57:390:57:41

I don't care where I come. I'm a finalist.

0:57:410:57:44

I've made it to the last three. I am going to enjoy it.

0:57:440:57:48

Even the alteration challenge.

0:57:480:57:50

I cannot wait to tell my family about this.

0:57:500:57:53

They are going to scream.

0:57:530:57:55

TELEPHONE RINGS

0:57:550:57:56

-Hello?

-Hello.

0:57:570:57:59

I'm in the final.

0:57:590:58:01

Hello?

0:58:020:58:04

Oh, Mum!

0:58:050:58:07

SOBBING ON PHONE

0:58:100:58:12

Oh, Mum, don't cry.

0:58:120:58:13

-"I'm so proud of you."

-Thank you.

0:58:140:58:18

Next time...

0:58:180:58:19

Now it all comes down to this.

0:58:190:58:22

Final press. Final garment.

0:58:220:58:24

The judges deliberated...

0:58:240:58:26

-She's panicking a bit, isn't she?

-Slightly, yeah.

-It's a shame.

0:58:260:58:30

..and they have decided...

0:58:300:58:32

Damn, damn, damn...

0:58:320:58:34

..that the winner of the great British Sewing Bee...

0:58:340:58:37

Just one more. Just one more.

0:58:370:58:39

..is...

0:58:390:58:41

This is not good.

0:58:410:58:43

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