Northumberland One Man and His Campervan


Northumberland

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Today my campervan and I are in the northern-most county in England, Northumberland.

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I risk one of Britain's most precarious roads...

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We are driving across a road to an island.

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'And just how much pain am I willing to risk to get some local ingredients?'

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They'll sting you through the back. Wherever material was touching your skin they'd sting.

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'And it's an early start as I roll up my sleeves

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'and put in some hard graft for my dinner,

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'on a quest for the ultimate in gourmet campervan cuisine.'

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I'll have a lobster, make it snappy!

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My journey has taken me up the eastern coast of England

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to the county of Northumberland.

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It's one of the least populated counties in England

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and it is famous for wide open beaches,

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and castles.

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I've travelled 1,200 miles since I left Devon

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which is quite an achievement, and only a couple of minor hiccups.

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The heating, I fixed, and my head, which I've had fixed.

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My plan is to go to Holy Island where hopefully I can camp.

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The thing about Holy Island is you can drive to it

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via a tidal causeway, and it's uncovered at low tide twice a day.

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The only thing is, you've got to get your timing right.

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And timing is not my strong point.

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Before I risked the crossing I stop to get some honey,

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a campervan staple.

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With the chance to drop in at one of Northumberland's best bee farms,

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it was to be a honey-based dish for my campervan meal tonight

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and perhaps my first dessert of the trip.

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Hello, Willy.

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-Hello.

-How are you?

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I am so pleased you are able to show me your bees today.

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When were you last stung?

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Oh, I get stung most days, but not very much.

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-OK.

-I'm used to it.

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'That didn't sound particularly reassuring.

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-'The sooner I got my protective suit on the better.'

-There you go.

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Great stuff. Thank you. Will this...

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-That's a heavy one.

-Will this give me full protection?

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-Well, it will stop them getting in your pockets and that.

-OK.

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What's the worst thing that can happen with bees?

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They can get you in the nose or the ear.

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-Or somewhere worse.

-Oh, right, OK.

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There's been a few buzzing round me and in my hair and what have you.

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Is it that they like me or they don't?

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No it's probably that they don't like you.

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But I wouldn't take any personal exception to that.

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It's just that they've heard us come, and the vehicles,

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and they're cross-investigating, you know.

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And you've got a particularly fine head of hair

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so they tend to get stuck up in that, you know.

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'The bees knew that I was the new boy in town

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'so before we could even approach Willy used a smoker to pacify them

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'and stop them from attacking.

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'The type and taste of honey can change dramatically

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'with the bees feeding on the seasonal flowers.

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'This was the end of the clover season which Willy assured me

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'means a wonderfully sweet honey. If only we could get to it.'

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Oh, look at that. Now, that buzzing is getting really intense there.

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Is that them knowing we are there?

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-Yes.

-If we were to approach these bees in the wrong way,

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make a clattering and then come in here and pull apart the hive,

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-what would happen?

-Well, we'd just have to leave.

-Right.

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We'd all have to leave, everybody.

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Wherever material was touching your skin they'd sting.

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-So they'd really go for it.

-They would, aye.

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With a good helping of smoke pumped into the hive,

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I took a cautious step back

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as Willy opened it up to retrieve the honey.

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This is when it's crucial for a novice like me to be in the hands of an expert bee keeper.

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With one wrong move from Willy or I, the bees could feel threatened and turn aggressive.

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Wow, goodness me!

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You must have this empathy between the bees and the bee keeper.

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How many of them would there be in here?

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In there, I would think 70 to 80 thousand.

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-Wow.

-Yeah. But you notice how calm they are.

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-We've gone into them exactly the right way.

-Yes.

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Exactly right. Never looked at us.

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So when you put that comb back into the hive, do you have to be careful?

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Yeah. You must try not to kill any bees because they send out an alarm,

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which upsets them.

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'I braced myself for the crunch of a crushed bee.

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'If the hum of the bees got higher in pitch then we were in trouble,

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'but Willy's calm authority saved the day.'

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They soon move out of the way don't they?

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'Willy agreed to let me take some honeycomb for my campervan dish

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'but first he had to shift the bees from a comb ready to harvest.'

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I wouldn't normally do this but...

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There you go, take that away over to the motor.

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Look at that.

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It's heavy, it's wonderful, it's local honey produced by these

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very clever and very sensitive and quite beautiful creatures.

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I'm really thrilled with this, it's wonderful.

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Willy has hives scattered across Northumberland.

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We drove through the pretty winding country roads heading back to the family farm

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where Willy's daughter, Francis, was going to prepare my honeycomb.

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We're going to try some honey.

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Ah-ha, we've been busy bees.

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Oh, yes!

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'At the processing plant, the honeycomb is cut straight from the frame and packaged up for sale.'

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-Hello.

-Hi.

-You must be Francis.

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-I am, yes, I am.

-You dad sent me in here.

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-Just lay this down on here.

-OK. Wow.

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OK, so we'll cut this comb out. I'll give you a hat and an apron to wear.

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Oh, right. OK. This is the bit...

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-There you go, how is that?

-Brilliant. You look great.

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-Thanks very much.

-Do I?

-Yes!

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What we're going to do

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is cut the whole comb out of the frame like this.

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Just drop it down like that.

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And then we sell this just as it is.

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So I've got my little template here, and we're going to cut it into pieces.

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-It looks pretty easy to cut.

-It is.

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You just have to be...

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it's really fragile fresh wax so you do need to take good care with it.

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-Yeah.

-Just lift it up,

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like that and then drop it into your tub.

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You can just eat it straight away?

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You can eat it from the comb.

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It's the best way to eat honey.

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And as fresh as this, you just got this an hour ago, you can't get any better than that.

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-And it's the most natural way.

-It's one of the most natural foods as well. Would you like a taste?

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-I would love a taste.

-OK.

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It looks wonderful.

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-It is.

-So clear and...it's lighter than I thought but it is...

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-like a taste of summer.

-Yes, that's right, you said it.

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Beautiful.

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I wasn't sure what I was going to do with the honey

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but it was when Francis was cutting up that honeycomb,

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I had an idea for a very special

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honey and lemon campervan cheesecake.

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The only problem, of course, how to chill it.

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I haven't used the fridge yet.

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I happen to know they are really difficult to light.

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So...I'm faced with a new challenge.

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'And that wasn't my only challenge.

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'I also had the small matter of driving across the sea to negotiate.

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'I had arrived at the tidal causeway that leads to Holy Island.

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'The causeway floods twice a day, meaning the road is submerged,

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'cutting off the island from the mainland,

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'so visitors like me need to take a careful look at the local tide times

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'or risk ending up losing their cars

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'and having to take refuge in one of those towers.

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'Luckily I was on time so there was no risk to my fresh paintwork today.

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'Although I am told by locals that plenty of people get caught out

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'and keep the coastguard busy.'

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Well, it looks very impressive.

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I have wanted to come up here for a long time.

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It's exciting. To be able to drive to an island?

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That's ridiculous, it's nonsense!

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But here you can.

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The monastery here was founded in the Dark Ages

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and was the base from which Christianity was spread across northern England.

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The Vikings launched a raid here in 793

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that heralded the Viking Age in Britain.

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But all this history won't get my campervan cheesecake chilled.

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To do that I was going to have to conquer an old foe of mine,

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the campervan fridge.

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One of the things about the van is the fridge

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is really difficult to light, and on this one,

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I've never had it going because I've never needed to chill anything.

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So in my haste in buying the van, I never checked it.

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What you have to do to try and get it lit is turn it on,

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look through here,

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and keep pressing until it lights.

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And the thing is, having to replace one of these fridges

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is a real pain.

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'I feared for the prospects of my campervan cheesecake.'

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HE LAUGHS VICTORIOUSLY

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And then you keep your finger on it and hope...

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that when you turn it down,

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it doesn't go out.

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'Much to my delight and relief, the burner stayed on.

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'I was in business.'

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That's the fridge lit and that can only mean one thing, it's time to crack on

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and crank up my first pudding of my trip, and that's going to be

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a no-bake cheesecake with that beautiful honeycomb as a base.

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It's going to be great.

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Surrounded by this breathtaking scenery and buoyed at the prospect of dessert

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I got the campervan ready for cooking.

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First up I mixed a tub of cream cheese

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with around a third of a cup of sugar to make my cheesecake filling.

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I'm not measuring things out exactly because you know what,

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it's going to be fine. Mix it up!

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The campervan way is just to do it simply

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and if that means it's a bit coarse and a bit rough around the edges, who cares?

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Next I added the zest of a lemon

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and then squeezed in a good amount of the juice.

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Just squeezing a lemon into that cream cheese

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to give it a lovely lemony flavour.

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Then I lovingly folded whipped double cream into the mix.

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If I was going to eat like this

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on every trip I'd have to do an awful lot of surfing.

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I might even have to take up something like running. Righty ho.

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It was time to put my fridge to the test and chill my mixture.

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Just clear these things up, that's gone in the fridge.

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And we all know you don't deserve pudding

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unless you've eaten first course. I'm just going to rustle up a quick campervan pasta and pesto

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then I can enjoy the main event.

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Pasta with a fresh pesto sauce is my number one campervan fallback dinner

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when I haven't picked up any fresh food during the day.

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I've always got dried pasta on board in the essentials cupboard

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and it only takes ten minutes to whip up fresh pesto.

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All you need are a few basil leaves

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and a chunk of parmesan which lasts for ages even without a fridge.

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I grind up the basil, pine nuts and parmesan

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in the pestle and mortar with a dash of olive oil.

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Then I drain the pasta al fresco-style

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and serve into a bowl for one.

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Yum.

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Takes about ten minutes, it's absolutely delicious

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and it is simple and cheap.

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I'd finished every last mouthful and even cleaned my bowl.

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My mother would be proud.

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So with my cheesecake filling having set in the fridge,

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it was time for the main event.

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This is the star of the show...

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..my Northumbrian honeycomb.

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Now, I'm not a greedy man so I'm going to attempt something that has never been attempted before,

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and there's probably good reason for that.

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OK, so maybe Willy's bees wouldn't be happy with the mess I was making

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of their beautiful honeycomb but it's all for a good campervan-cooking cause.

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Let's be generous.

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My chilled-cheesecake filling was topped off with some fresh strawberries.

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Last things, last...

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few of the final bits of zest.

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Do you know what?

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I'm quite proud of that. It may not look like a conventional cheesecake

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but that, my friends, is a campervan no-bake cheesecake

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with fresh honey from Northumberland bees.

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Oh, my word, it is really excellent.

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The honeycomb is kind of chewy.

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That's the wax, but it gives a nice kind of chewy base, and a little bit of strawberry

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and honey and lemon...

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..never hurt anyone.

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Camping is restricted on Holy Island but I had special permission to park up here for the night.

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But there was no time to enjoy the amazing view.

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It was an early night for me as I had to be up again in just a few hours.

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Coming up,

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I hit the high seas in search of dinner.

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Oh, wow, he's beautiful. He's a keeper. Fantastic.

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And, without electricity in the van, I put in some elbow work to produce my campervan mayonnaise.

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My arm is a bit tired.

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Well, it's 4am and it's...raining

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but I've come down to the quayside of Holy Island for a bit of adventure on the high seas.

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I was meeting up with Richard and Shaun, who were going to take me lobster fishing.

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Having already cooked crab in the van in Norfolk, I was going to take campervan cooking upmarket.

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Tonight I was planning to cook fresh Northumberland lobster with home-made mayonnaise.

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Five miles out in the North Sea, Richard and Shaun have ten runs of lobster pots

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with 30 pots in each run, and today we were hoping to empty every one of them.

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There's something really, really exciting about setting sail, even at four o'clock in the morning,

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and in such a place as this, it's just wonderful.

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At the end of the day I could have a fresh lobster that's out of the sea

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a matter of hours

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to cook up.

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How wonderful is that?

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As Shaun navigated us out to the first run of pots,

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Richard got the fresh bait to refill the pots as soon as they were brought on board.

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Soon enough, the first run of pots was being hauled up from the seabed.

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Here they are.

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And so began a period of frantic activity with Shaun sorting out

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the crabs from the lobster and throwing any small ones back that didn't make the grade.

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While Richard re-baited each pot, I saw a way to make myself useful and earn my dinner -

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stacking the empties.

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I'm going to have a go at this now, see if I can help out.

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Turn it. Turn it there, Mark.

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They were a lot heavier than they looked.

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It must have been the weight of the sea water.

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Thus began one of the hardest physical days of work in my life.

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-I had already lost the power of speech.

-HE MOUTHS

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As I waited for my next pot, it was beginning to dawn on me how hard this job was,

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and, despite the gadgetry on board, I don't think I'll be trading in the van for a boat any time soon.

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At least the content of the fifth pot gave me something to smile about.

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-Lobster!

-He's having a go. He's having a go.

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That's our prize.

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No time for lobster because...

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Every few seconds there was another pot to stack.

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And the sea swell was building.

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Bit wobbly.

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Although they were landing a lot more crabs than lobster there seemed to be

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at least one lobster in each pot, although they weren't all destined for the dinner table just yet.

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This one is under size so he's going to live to snap another day.

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87mm between the back of the eye socket

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and the end of the carapace there

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saves him for another swim.

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But then a candidate for tonight's dinner arrived.

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I sized up the main course.

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Oh, wow, what a beautiful...

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blue colour. That, of course,

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will go pink when he goes in the pot,

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but he's a keeper, fantastic.

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All the flesh in there.

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Wonderful. He goes in the bucket.

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The lobster pots had now filled the deck three high.

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I'm working up quite an appetite.

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Might have to have TWO lobsters.

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The rope that hauled them off the seabed was still attached to them

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and Richard showed me the precise order to stack them in so the rope didn't get snagged on anything.

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There was nowhere to move on deck. Surely there can't be any more on this run!

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-Last one?

-Yeah.

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With no room to move, Shaun and Richard were clear

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that I had to stick to the front of the boat out of harm's way. And I was about to find out why.

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With the seagulls watching on expectantly, the reasons for the careful stacking of the pots

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became all too apparent.

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Richard threw the rope back into the sea with a heavy weight attached

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and the pots started to be pulled back off the boat.

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Richard carefully unstacked them in reverse order,

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placing them on the deck quickly enough for them to be pulled in naturally.

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Despite his level of care, Richard was about to have a nasty moment.

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Whoa!

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All right?

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-All right.

-I think Richard had a close call with the ropes.

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It's quite a dangerous place to work.

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The pots are so heavy that Richard was telling me earlier if you get the rope

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wrapped around your foot and go overboard you just go straight to the bottom,

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so it's not funny.

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All the pots had been dragged back in safely

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and now all Richard had to do was throw marker buoys back in and reflect on a near miss.

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There was a knot in the ropes and the pots started to go out together.

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The worst place possible for it to happen is when you're in the corner

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because there is nowhere to get out of the way so you just have to push them away from your body.

0:19:510:19:55

There is no warning, absolutely no warning. You just shout "stop"

0:19:550:19:58

and that's the end and it cuts dead, and then Shaun's straight out with a sharp knife and cuts if it happens.

0:19:580:20:04

It was now 11am. We had emptied nine out of ten of our lobster pot runs

0:20:060:20:12

and I felt like I'd done a week's work in six hours.

0:20:120:20:16

Still, at least the sun was out and my thoughts turned to

0:20:160:20:19

cooking my beautiful fresh lobster back at the van.

0:20:190:20:23

I thought I'd ask the experts how they eat theirs.

0:20:230:20:26

Do you eat lobster, Shaun?

0:20:260:20:28

Yeah, now and again, not very often but...

0:20:280:20:30

-I think it's all right, yeah.

-Yeah?

0:20:300:20:33

But not when you're working with it every day, you know?

0:20:330:20:35

-What's your favourite way of eating it?

-Just the way it is, I think.

0:20:350:20:38

You can put sauces on but I think sauce spoils it.

0:20:380:20:41

'Shaun also suggested a much shorter cooking time than I would normally use.'

0:20:410:20:45

Some people say 20 minutes, but I don't think so.

0:20:450:20:48

I think the more you boil it, the more you'll spoil it.

0:20:480:20:51

But to ensure there will always be lobster to eat, Shaun and Richard

0:20:510:20:54

do their bit to conserve the species by protecting breeding females.

0:20:540:20:58

When somebody gets her aboard they'll see the bands on her claw first

0:20:580:21:01

and they'll realise somebody else has caught her and then on the tail

0:21:010:21:07

we'll cut two "V"s

0:21:070:21:08

and this lobster can't be landed and sold in the Northumberland district.

0:21:110:21:16

-So that's great news for this lobster because she'll never get taken.

-She must be 15, 20 years old.

0:21:160:21:20

So this lobster will live all her days now in the sea,

0:21:200:21:24

breeding quite happily, never to be caught and eaten.

0:21:240:21:28

Well, good luck to her.

0:21:280:21:29

We were nearly done, the last run of lobster pots was reset and we headed back to Holy Island.

0:21:330:21:39

It was time to get the catch out of the hold and take stock of a successful day's fishing.

0:21:390:21:45

11 box of crabs, a box of lobsters.

0:21:450:21:47

We are very, very happy with that.

0:21:470:21:50

All I had to do now was pick one for tonight...

0:21:500:21:53

How about that one?

0:21:530:21:54

..say goodbye to the chaps, and head back to my van.

0:21:540:21:57

It's nice to meet you both. Thanks very much for your time.

0:21:570:22:00

I felt I'd been away from the van for a whole day and it was still only mid-morning.

0:22:000:22:04

I put my lobster in a bucket, covered by a wet tea towel to keep it fresh.

0:22:040:22:09

It was time to get back to my campervan and find the perfect spot for my lobster feast.

0:22:090:22:15

Northumberland has some of the best and quietest beaches in Britain,

0:22:150:22:19

with good road access, so I had an enviable choice of places to pull over and enjoy the views.

0:22:190:22:25

The great thing about campervans is that you can park up and cook pretty much anywhere you like,

0:22:250:22:30

and I think I've found a very fine spot to eat my lobster.

0:22:300:22:35

I was tired and hungry after a gruelling morning on the lobster boat,

0:22:450:22:49

so I decided not to complicate things too much.

0:22:490:22:52

Well, the water is on for the lobster.

0:22:520:22:55

I'm going to keep it simple and just eat it with some mayonnaise.

0:22:550:22:59

So I need a couple of yolks. The more free-range they are, the better the golden colour

0:22:590:23:06

and so the better colour you'll get from your mayonnaise.

0:23:060:23:10

So two of them to start with

0:23:100:23:13

because you need to emulsify the eggs.

0:23:130:23:15

A little bit of mustard powder.

0:23:150:23:18

Lemon juice.

0:23:180:23:19

Well, the recipe was simple enough but the main ingredient was something I was really lacking in -

0:23:190:23:25

energy.

0:23:250:23:26

Two minutes in and I was already having to give myself a pep talk.

0:23:260:23:30

Keep going. Persevere.

0:23:300:23:35

My arm is a bit tired.

0:23:350:23:39

It's all in the wrist action, obviously.

0:23:390:23:42

After four minutes I'd started fantasising about white goods.

0:23:420:23:45

You see, at this point you wish you'd brought an electric whisk

0:23:450:23:48

but, seeing as you're right by the beach, you haven't got one.

0:23:480:23:52

So you've just got to keep persevering.

0:23:520:23:55

Eight minutes.

0:23:560:23:58

My arms were killing me and self-doubt had gained a foothold.

0:23:580:24:01

Er, I've this a few times before

0:24:010:24:04

but, you know, only a few times have been successful.

0:24:040:24:08

But you know what? I don't care, I just want to try something and have something fresh.

0:24:080:24:12

I've got these free-range eggs, this beautiful evening, I've got all the time in the world

0:24:120:24:16

and, ah,

0:24:160:24:19

you know, it's all about trying and sometimes failing.

0:24:190:24:24

Maybe starting to add the oil will finally make the mixture thicken.

0:24:240:24:29

Just a drip at a time with the oil, it's just a question of...

0:24:290:24:33

..getting it to thicken up.

0:24:380:24:40

I've got to know the van quite well over...

0:24:410:24:45

the journey that I've been on and one of the things

0:24:450:24:48

I've discovered is it's actually really nice just to sit here

0:24:480:24:52

on the cool box, by the step,

0:24:520:24:55

relaxing, enjoying the view,

0:24:550:24:58

rather than getting out the table and all that malarkey.

0:24:580:25:01

Then on days like this you just want to slide open the door and take in the view - it's just stunning.

0:25:010:25:06

If it gets any nicer I might have to go for a swim after this.

0:25:060:25:12

After 15 minutes, a glimmer of hope.

0:25:120:25:15

It's starting to thicken up.

0:25:150:25:18

This gave me impetus to go into full food-processor mode.

0:25:180:25:22

It was time to add the final ingredient - some white wine vinegar.

0:25:220:25:27

It's quite fruity this, actually, because of the mustard.

0:25:270:25:30

There you go.

0:25:300:25:32

My arms were about to drop off but the mayonnaise was looking fabulous.

0:25:320:25:37

How about that?

0:25:370:25:38

Beautiful, peaky mayonnaise.

0:25:380:25:41

Oh, that's beautiful.

0:25:410:25:44

The water for my lobster was boiling. Time to get cooking.

0:25:440:25:48

The guys on the boat said five minutes,

0:25:500:25:53

then I'll leave him to cool and that should cook him enough.

0:25:530:25:57

Most people would cook a lobster from between 10 and 20 minutes so I'm going to give him 10 minutes,

0:25:570:26:02

let him cool for about five and then see where we go from there.

0:26:020:26:06

At most fishmongers, you can buy live lobster so, if you can get your hands on one,

0:26:060:26:11

then this is what I recommend.

0:26:110:26:13

Buy it from the fishmongers, drive to the beach and cook it up with your own mayonnaise.

0:26:130:26:19

It's not that difficult.

0:26:190:26:21

Ten minutes had gone by and my lobster had turned a beautiful shade of pink.

0:26:220:26:27

Well, doesn't that look splendid? Especially the choice of colour plate.

0:26:270:26:31

Do you know? I wouldn't actually buy lobster at a restaurant

0:26:310:26:35

just because I'd prefer to get it straight from the quayside

0:26:350:26:38

or, you know, live from the fishmonger, or even try and catch it myself. I've caught a few.

0:26:380:26:44

A good sharp knife, it's not that easy.

0:26:440:26:48

A lobster doesn't have the thick, hard shell of a crab

0:26:480:26:50

which means, with a bit of force, you can just split it in two.

0:26:500:26:54

If you want something good...

0:26:540:26:57

you sometimes have to...

0:26:570:26:59

be pretty brutal about it.

0:26:590:27:03

Wow, look at that. It just looks wonderful.

0:27:030:27:06

It was done. Succulent Northumberland lobster,

0:27:130:27:18

caught just a few hours ago, and my home-made free-range mayonnaise.

0:27:180:27:24

Wow, I don't know what's better - the mayonnaise or the lobster.

0:27:240:27:29

Either way, unbelievable.

0:27:290:27:32

I love eating this way,

0:27:320:27:33

absolutely love it.

0:27:330:27:36

Baked beans on toast, take a hike.

0:27:360:27:39

Oh! This is campervan living.

0:27:410:27:42

It was now 18 hours since I'd got up to go out on the lobster boat

0:27:440:27:47

and I'd never worked so hard in my life to get a meal together, but it had DEFINITELY been worth the work.

0:27:470:27:54

In the next episode,

0:27:560:27:59

I'll be revealing some of the best spots for campervan living on the gorgeous east Scottish coast.

0:27:590:28:05

I take a deep breath and head off road...

0:28:050:28:08

"The association will not be liable

0:28:080:28:11

"for vehicles or their occupants damaged as a result of this roadway."

0:28:110:28:15

How exciting.

0:28:150:28:17

..and discover a new way of al fresco cooking from the van...

0:28:170:28:20

-Look at that colour.

-Brilliant.

0:28:200:28:24

..and, on a mission to find the very best in local produce,

0:28:240:28:27

get up close and personal with some rare-breed Scottish pigs.

0:28:270:28:32

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:28:390:28:42

E-mail [email protected]

0:28:420:28:45

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