Episode 3 Food: Truth or Scare


Episode 3

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Today, we're settling an age-old argument as well as revealing why

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the latest celebrity-backed food fad isn't all it's cracked up to be.

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You know, it's been called a superfood, but believe me,

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there's nothing super about it and that's just one of the headlines

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in today's programme that you'd be better off ignoring completely.

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Every day, we're bombarded with conflicting information

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about our favourite foods.

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One minute we're told something's good for us, the next, it's not.

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And we're left feeling guilty about what we're eating.

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But we've been wading through the confusion

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to separate the scare stories from the truth

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so you can choose your food with confidence.

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Hello and welcome to Food: Truth Or Scare?

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Now, this is a series that referees those endless arguments

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in the papers and online

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about how the food we eat really affects our health.

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And today, we'll be getting to grips

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with two things that we often read about in the papers -

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a celebrity-endorsed food fad

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and that regular claim that when it comes to our diet,

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things are a lot worse than they used to be.

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But if, like us, you're fed up of reading doom-laden stories

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about how badly we eat

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and how our choices are going to put us in an early grave,

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you'll be delighted to hear that in today's programme,

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as well as settling an argument that's been raging for years,

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we've got a bit of good news as well.

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Thank goodness for that.

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Coming up... It's the trendiest fat on the supermarket shelves,

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but I've been investigating the dark side of coconut oil.

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I've got friends who have done all kinds of things with coconut oil,

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thinking it's going to help with all kinds of problems

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and actually, it's probably not.

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And which generation of the same family has the best diet?

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We'll see if today's teens really eat as badly as the headlines suggest.

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I do sort of fall victim to a lot of, like, toast or spaghetti hoops.

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Now, Chris, you know that the foods we choose to eat every day

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keep us nice and healthy and fit,

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but we hear a lot about foods with supposed superpowers.

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You can't believe it. They apparently transform our health

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almost single-handedly,

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and those claims are made all the more convincing

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when they're being made by a high-profile celebrity.

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Well, there seems to be a new one every January

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as the post-Christmas health drive kicks in

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for so many wanting to get over their festive indulgence.

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And all it takes is for a big name to get behind a food fad

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and suddenly it's everywhere.

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Now, one of the latest fads that you simply can't have missed

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is that of coconut oil.

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You know, so much has been written about it in recent years,

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you'd be forgiven for thinking it really does have superpowers.

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So I wanted to find out whether there's any truth in the claims

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that have been sending the nation coco-nuts and, I'm afraid,

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I've discovered a very big coco-but.

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It's the hottest food trend in years.

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My daughter is into health foods and she's introduced us recently

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to using it more in our diet.

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Coconut oil has been credited with just about everything

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from boosting the immune system to improving your memory...

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Coconut oil, yeah, is a healthier one than a lot of them out there.

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..lowering your blood pressure to preventing heart disease.

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Well, I use coconut oil for cooking,

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although I'm not sure what the long-term benefits are,

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or any benefit, really. It's just something I've read about

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and, you know, I have been using it.

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Judging by the headlines

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and endorsements from celebrities like Gwyneth Paltrow,

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coconut oil is a bona fide superfood.

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I was in the Caribbean and every person I spoke to was constantly

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going on about how much coconuts were very good for you.

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-Even when it was in a cocktail, presumably.

-Yes. Even in a cocktail.

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But despite those headlines extolling its virtues,

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there are plenty of others determined to knock the coconut off its pedestal.

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Now, I have to admit there is a jar of coconut oil

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in my kitchen cupboard too.

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My husband bought it after he heard

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how amazing it was supposed to be.

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But before we could use it,

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we read some of those more damning headlines.

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As a result, it's sitting there unopened and, honestly,

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I don't really know what to do with it.

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So to find out whether my jar of coconut oil deserves a place

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in my kitchen cupboards or my kitchen bin,

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I meeting someone who's been using it all her life.

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-Hi, Priya.

-Hi.

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-How are you doing?

-Good, thank you.

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Dietician Priya grew up in Sri Lanka,

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where coconut is used a lot in cooking.

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And she's watched with interest

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as coconut oil has taken Britain by storm.

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Now, Priya, suddenly we seem to have coconut everything,

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and coconut oil, you know, just being such a fad, really.

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How do these things build up?

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It definitely seems to be the trendy thing to do to, you know,

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put coconut in absolutely everything that you possibly can.

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I've got friends who have done all kinds of things with coconut oil.

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So, they've been swilling it around their mouths

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and thinking it's going to help with all kinds of problems,

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and actually, it's probably not.

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So, just for the record, let's analyse exactly what coconut oil is.

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So, coconut oil is a solid fat

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that then, when you heat it up,

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it becomes a liquid and you can use it for cooking.

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And it also comes like a cream, really, like a lard.

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Yes, absolutely, it's a very similar consistency to lard.

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But presumably, given all those headlines,

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you'd expect it's going to be better for us.

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Now, as a nation, we've become used to

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seeing our favourite fads go in and out of fashion.

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In the '70s, we fell out of love with lard.

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In the '80s and '90s,

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as we all learned that saturated fat was bad for the heart,

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we swapped vegetable oil for olive oil and butter for low-fat spread.

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Then, a few short years ago, coconut oil arrived with a bang.

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But is it any better than the fats that came before it?

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Well, Priya and I have a test for these shoppers

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to see which household fat they think is the most healthy.

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And do you know? They might be in for a big surprise.

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What we'd like you to do is to pour into the test tube

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the amount of liquid that you think represents the saturated fat.

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The level of saturated fat is a key indicator of how healthy

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or indeed unhealthy a fat is.

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So we're asking our volunteers to fill up these tubes to show us

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what percentage of saturated fat they think is in

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not just coconut oil, but also lard, butter and first up, olive oil.

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OK. So this is...

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-Like, 15%.

-About 15%.

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That's now 30%.

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OK, so you think 20%.

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-So that's 20%.

-OK.

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It's not a bad guess. Pretty good. Actually, it's 13%.

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So, there's less saturated fat in olive oil than our shoppers guessed,

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but will they do any better with the butter?

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How much saturated fat in the butter?

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I would say probably more like 25%.

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-OK. So, again, 30%.

-30%.

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You're taking it up further.

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25.

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-25%, OK.

-25%, OK.

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In fact, this butter is made up of around 49% saturated fat.

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So what about the lard?

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It's actually 46%.

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-Now, I was surprised at that.

-46?

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So that's 46% saturated fat in lard,

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49% in butter and 13% in olive oil.

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With coconut oil's supposed health benefits,

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surely it's going to be even lower,

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and certainly, that's what our shoppers thought.

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5% there, maybe.

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5%. Now, why did you go for 5%?

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-Less.

-Yeah, it's five. Yeah.

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Do you think it is really healthy?

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-I think so.

-Yeah.

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-OK.

-On saturated fats, it should be less than all the others.

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Less than all the others. OK.

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-Ready?

-Here we go.

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Keep watching, Maria.

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No!

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No!

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No way!

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-92%.

-92%.

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So, it's not so healthy.

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Oh, my goodness. Now, most experts agree

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that eating too much saturated fat is one of the causes

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of heart disease, and I, for one, am gobsmacked

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that the oil that we're all told is supposedly healthier

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than the rest actually has almost double the saturated fat of lard.

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I think there is this overriding idea

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that coconut oil is really healthy and we should be using it,

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but when you actually look at the amount of saturated fat in it,

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it's quite a showing, isn't it?

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And do you think it's a psychological thing

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because it's the coconut, and we imagine a coconut,

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just fallen from the tree, it's got to be healthy?

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I think it's actually the information

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that's been out there on social media and in the media

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that there's been all this information and all these headlines,

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saying, coconut is really good for you.

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And therefore people equate that with,

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it can't be very high in saturated fat, then.

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Well, one person who's definitely bought into those headlines

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and social media messages saying coconut oil is good for us

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is yoga instructor Kat Allen from Tunbridge Wells.

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I first started using coconut-based products about five years ago

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when I read about all of the research about how healthy

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it was meant to be for you. I really like coconut oil.

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I like the taste and I like cooking with it

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and I like the health benefits that it's meant to have.

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Keen to learn more about coconut oil,

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Kat's agreed to meet Priya at her home.

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I understand that you're really into using coconut products.

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Yes. I cook everything in coconut oil for myself and my husband.

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So, for some people,

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they choose coconut products because they think they're healthier.

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Is that something that you've ever thought about?

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I have read that it's healthier, yes.

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Kat's love of coconut oil is based on widespread reports

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that it can increase our good cholesterol,

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which has been associated with a reduced risk of heart disease.

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But Priya says it's not that simple.

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When we look at what happens when you eat coconut oil,

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we know that it raises the levels of your good cholesterol,

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which is your HDL cholesterol.

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So, some people would say, well, that's a good thing.

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However, it also raises the levels of your total cholesterol,

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which is the one that's not so good for you.

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Now, that doesn't mean Priya thinks

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coconut oil should be banned from Kat's kitchen altogether.

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As someone who grew up eating it, she knows it can taste great.

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But Priya says that, if Kat has chosen coconut oil for health reasons,

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she's plumped for the wrong fat.

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I think coconut oil is something to use sparingly and in moderation,

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so if you're cooking something where you want the flavour,

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then, yes, it gives a really lovely flavour.

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But if you're just doing everyday cooking

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and you don't want that coconut flavour

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and you're thinking about your heart health,

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then olive oil is going to be a better choice.

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And, of course, as I found out earlier,

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that's because coconut oil contains so much saturated fat.

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They both contain fat, but coconut oil is 92% saturated fat

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and olive oil is only about 13%.

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-Oh, yeah, that's a lot less.

-It is, isn't it?

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But after years of using coconut oil in place of almost

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every other fat, thinking it was healthier, can Kat be convinced?

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Well, Priya's going to show her a simple recipe

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that would be a lot better for her if she used olive oil instead.

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But while they get cooking, I'm interested in the harm

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that the army of devoted coconut oil fans might be doing to themselves

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by using something with such a high level of saturated fats.

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Victoria Taylor is a senior heart health dietician

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from the British Heart Foundation

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who thinks this is a food craze that's gone just too far.

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Now, Victoria, we see all the time

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coconut oil being marketed

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and being written about in the headlines as a healthy oil.

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So, what is the British Heart Foundation's take on all of that?

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Yeah, I mean, the marketing is very alluring.

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It makes it sound like it's going to help you to live forever, almost.

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And coconut oil is a saturated fat

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and 75% of the type of saturated fat in it

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is the kind that will raise your LDL cholesterol levels.

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That's the bad cholesterol. And coupled with that, it's a fat,

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so it is one of the most energy-dense nutrients there is.

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And we know that obesity is a risk factor for heart disease,

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as is raised cholesterol levels.

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I have, though, read other headlines that suggest

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that coconut oil in terms of cholesterol

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is proportionally better for you than some of the other oils.

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Now, is there any truth in that at all?

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So, there is some suggestion that it might be

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better than other saturated fats

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in terms of what it does to your cholesterol levels.

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I would say that we're not there yet

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in terms of the quality of the evidence

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that that suggestion is based on.

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And other experts would say there simply isn't the evidence

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to substantiate other reported benefits of coconut oil -

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from claims it can help digestive problems

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to reports it can help insulin resistance in diabetics.

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Ultimately, the consensus is that despite the headlines,

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coconut oil is a fat and not an especially good one.

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Is there anything good in coconut oil?

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I think there are things like polyphenolic compounds,

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which are kind of antioxidants

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and they are found in the extra virgin coconut oil,

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but they will also be in other oils.

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They will be in fruit and vegetables, you know,

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a whole range of other foods can have them.

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So it really goes back to having this varied and balanced diet

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and not just focusing on a single food.

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And back in Priya's kitchen,

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that's just the message she's been giving to coconut oil devotee Kat,

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who otherwise eats very healthily.

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Priya says that Kat shouldn't be cooking every meal in coconut oil,

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but even without the health benefits, Kat still loves the taste.

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So can a pair of stir-fries -

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one cooked in olive oil and one in coconut oil - change her mind?

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Right, so, coconut oil.

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Yeah, nice flavour.

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And then the olive oil.

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So, a definite difference between the two.

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I like them both.

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Probably a slight preference for the coconut oil.

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But the olive oil is good too.

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But the main reason Kat used coconut oil

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is because she thought it was healthier.

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Now she knows it isn't, maybe she'll be tempted to switch.

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In terms of taste preference,

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you would be fine having more olive oil in your diet?

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I would. Because it's a good case you've made.

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-Is it?

-Yes.

-I've argued it well.

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This might be a result.

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It was really surprising how much fat content there is in coconut oil.

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And I'd never appreciated

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that it was about five times more fat than olive oil,

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and that's a lot.

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So, in the future, perhaps I won't be using it quite as often.

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You've got a nice big family, Gloria, haven't you?

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Yeah, we have, actually, including ten grandchildren between us.

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-That keeps us busy.

-I bet it does.

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But which generation would you say has the best diet?

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I've often pondered that and on reflection,

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I think maybe my parents, because everything was cooked from scratch,

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everything grown in the garden, so it was organic,

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and then, on the other hand, one of my grandchildren, one of the ten,

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he's 19 and he's doing a bit of modelling in the gap year.

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So conscious about health and food, knows so much, and he'll say to me,

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"I've had my 12 a day before breakfast today."

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That sounds brilliant, but unfortunately,

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-I think he might be the exception rather than the rule.

-Probably.

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Because you can't move for headlines like this

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saying that the young today eat terribly. This one here,

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"Teenagers lead the retreat from a healthy five a day."

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And the implication is always

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that our diet is worse today than it was before.

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But I'm not entirely convinced that's the case,

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so I've recruited a family of three generations

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all living under the same roof to help me find out,

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once and for all, not just which one has the healthiest diet today,

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but over the years, which generation has eaten the best.

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There's a fair few mouths to feed in the Jerome household in Bristol.

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The youngest is 11 and the eldest is 90.

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Three generations of the same family all living under one roof.

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They live together and they eat together.

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But which generation has the best diet?

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I'm paying them a visit to find out.

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-Hello.

-Hello, Chris. Come in out of the cold.

-How are we?

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Mealtimes are a big deal in this house,

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but Sunday is one of the rare occasions they all sit down

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at the same table to eat the same thing.

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The rest of the week, they've all got their own favourites.

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I'm pretty partial to steak and chips.

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I'm also pretty partial to anything that goes with a decent red wine.

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There's dad Simon and mum Jo, both in their 50s,

0:17:120:17:15

their kids, 11-year-old Josh and 18-year-old Alice.

0:17:150:17:18

And then, head of the table is 87-year-old Grandma June

0:17:180:17:22

and finally John, who's 90 years old.

0:17:220:17:25

So, which of the generations around this table has the best diet?

0:17:250:17:29

Because according to headline after headline,

0:17:290:17:31

one of them couldn't be eating worse.

0:17:310:17:34

18-year-old Alice and her mates are in the age group

0:17:350:17:37

that's said to drink a bath full of sugary drinks a year,

0:17:370:17:40

eat junk food twice a day and could be on the road

0:17:400:17:42

to developing some very serious health problems as a result.

0:17:420:17:46

So, will the Jerome family's favourite meals give me a clue

0:17:480:17:51

to who eats best and indeed worst in this house?

0:17:510:17:54

Well, I like Jo's bolognese.

0:17:550:17:57

I like steak and chips.

0:17:570:17:59

Steak and chips?

0:17:590:18:00

Anything kind of covered in cheese sounds good to me.

0:18:000:18:03

And as for who they think eats the healthiest?

0:18:030:18:06

On the count of three, can we all point to the person

0:18:060:18:09

that we think has the most healthy diet?

0:18:090:18:13

Ready? One, two...

0:18:130:18:16

three.

0:18:160:18:17

Well, it's almost unanimous.

0:18:200:18:21

Everyone here is pretty sure it's Josh.

0:18:210:18:24

Why do we think young Josh has got the best diet?

0:18:240:18:27

I think that he's learned from everybody, all the generations,

0:18:270:18:30

in terms of what's good to eat.

0:18:300:18:31

He tries everything, but also eats salad.

0:18:310:18:35

But to see if they're right, and to find out a bit more

0:18:360:18:39

about whether the Jeromes are typical of the rest of the nation,

0:18:390:18:43

I'm setting them a little challenge.

0:18:430:18:45

What I want you all to do, if that's OK,

0:18:450:18:47

is to keep a video diary of every meal you have for the next week.

0:18:470:18:51

Is that OK? Shall we do that? Yeah?

0:18:510:18:53

In a week's time, their food diaries will undergo expert scrutiny

0:18:550:18:59

to see who really has the healthiest diet.

0:18:590:19:02

And don't modify your diets for the next seven days.

0:19:020:19:04

I don't want to see everybody going,

0:19:040:19:06

"Yeah, I'm just sitting down to another quinoa salad."

0:19:060:19:09

Even though Josh came out top of the family's straw poll,

0:19:100:19:13

he'll soon join big sister Alice in a generation that,

0:19:130:19:16

according to all those reports, eats especially badly.

0:19:160:19:19

There are more overweight and obese teenagers now than ever before

0:19:190:19:23

and less than one in ten young people get their five-a-day.

0:19:230:19:27

Yvonne Bishop-Weston is a nutritionist

0:19:270:19:29

who has studied family diet, and for teens, it's not good.

0:19:290:19:33

Is this generation of teenagers eating a worse diet

0:19:350:19:38

than generations of teenagers before?

0:19:380:19:40

It is looking like this generation of teenagers are faring the worst

0:19:400:19:44

and there are lots and lots of possible reasons

0:19:440:19:47

why that is the case. We don't know why it's the case.

0:19:470:19:50

The biggest argument that comes across is self-selection.

0:19:500:19:53

In other words, as soon as some kids are out of the house,

0:19:530:19:56

they head straight for pizzas, burgers and chips

0:19:560:19:58

and those habits can be hard to shake.

0:19:580:20:01

Once we get to sort of secondary school age,

0:20:010:20:03

then that's what's going to determine largely your future

0:20:030:20:06

and there's all sorts of nutrients which have a direct correlation

0:20:060:20:10

with how our brain is going to function,

0:20:100:20:12

how we're going to concentrate and also, it's now been proven,

0:20:120:20:14

how we behave.

0:20:140:20:16

That's related to what we eat and so this is a time when actually,

0:20:160:20:19

you're going to put the groundwork from childhood into place

0:20:190:20:22

and those sort of 11-19 age groups

0:20:220:20:27

are where all that important stuff is really happening.

0:20:270:20:30

But does any of that ring true for the Jerome family back in Bristol?

0:20:310:20:35

If Yvonne is right,

0:20:350:20:36

Alice and her friends will be eating pretty poorly

0:20:360:20:39

and she admits that when she's left to her own devices,

0:20:390:20:42

she lets things slip.

0:20:420:20:43

50% of the time, my mum does the cooking, which is really nice.

0:20:450:20:48

She cooks a lot of, like, healthy food, varied diet.

0:20:480:20:52

But when I go to work and I cook for myself,

0:20:520:20:55

that's when, kind of, trouble starts.

0:20:550:20:58

I do sort of fall victim to a lot of, like, toast or spaghetti hoops.

0:20:580:21:04

And for many of her friends, it's all too easy

0:21:040:21:07

to reach for the bad stuff.

0:21:070:21:08

It's only my friends and especially my friends' boyfriends,

0:21:100:21:13

when it gets to late at night,

0:21:130:21:14

they go to a lot of fast-food chains.

0:21:140:21:17

Any sort of, like, quick burgers

0:21:170:21:19

and chips and stuff or pizzas, they're big, big fans of.

0:21:190:21:23

And that can be several times a week.

0:21:230:21:25

So, will 11-year-old Josh,

0:21:250:21:27

who, for now, everyone thinks eats really well,

0:21:270:21:30

head down the same path towards junk food

0:21:300:21:33

the moment he becomes a teenager? Well, the signs aren't promising.

0:21:330:21:37

At school, what sort of things are people eating at lunchtime?

0:21:370:21:40

There's normally about three choices.

0:21:400:21:42

There's, like, a sandwich choice.

0:21:420:21:43

-Yeah.

-Or there's, like... there's sometimes, like, pies.

0:21:430:21:47

-Yeah.

-And on Wednesdays, we have, like, a roast.

0:21:470:21:52

What are your schoolmates... what sort of things do they eat?

0:21:520:21:55

When we're waiting for the bus,

0:21:550:21:57

they sometimes, like, order takeaway pizza.

0:21:570:22:00

So they order takeaway pizza and, what, get it delivered where?

0:22:000:22:03

-Or do they pick it up?

-Where we wait for the bus, normally.

0:22:030:22:06

They get it delivered to the bus stop?

0:22:060:22:08

Yeah. Sometimes.

0:22:080:22:09

And lots of people go and, like, buy food.

0:22:090:22:11

Mostly, like, sweets and stuff.

0:22:110:22:13

Yvonne says the evidence shows a bad diet has become

0:22:160:22:19

a rather depressing rite of passage for today's teenagers.

0:22:190:22:23

In your teenage years, you've got to grow some independence, haven't you?

0:22:230:22:26

You've got to move away from being sort of protected and cared for

0:22:260:22:29

and find your own way in the world,

0:22:290:22:31

so you're going out there and choosing your own options,

0:22:310:22:33

but more than ever before,

0:22:330:22:35

there are so many options available which are not ideal.

0:22:350:22:37

So they are self-selecting and there is a huge availability

0:22:370:22:41

of processed and junk food

0:22:410:22:42

and a lot of it is cheap and within their budget.

0:22:420:22:45

So if, as Yvonne says,

0:22:450:22:47

the shocking headlines about teenage eating habits are right

0:22:470:22:50

and British teams really do eat worse than any other generation,

0:22:500:22:54

then which of the age groups eats best?

0:22:540:22:56

Later in the programme,

0:22:560:22:58

we'll meet grandparents 87-year-old June and 90-year-old John

0:22:580:23:02

to see how their diet has kept them as fit as a fiddle into old age.

0:23:020:23:07

Now, in the ranks of healthy eating, there is one food group

0:23:110:23:14

that normally is pretty close to the top, and that's protein.

0:23:140:23:17

Things like meat, eggs, fish, nuts.

0:23:170:23:20

It's supposed to make up at least 15% of our daily diet.

0:23:200:23:24

It's fuel for growing bones and muscles

0:23:240:23:26

and it's right at the centre of lots of weight loss regimes.

0:23:260:23:29

I can sense a "but" coming up here.

0:23:290:23:31

There's a big but. Well, that's because recently some headlines

0:23:310:23:35

declared that low protein was the key to living a long life.

0:23:350:23:39

And then that high protein was particularly dangerous

0:23:390:23:42

for heart disease for women over the age of 50.

0:23:420:23:45

-Would that surprise you?

-That is surprising, actually.

0:23:450:23:48

I was under the impression that protein made up an essential part

0:23:480:23:51

-of a balanced diet.

-And I think you're right.

0:23:510:23:53

It's important for all sorts of things, even hair.

0:23:530:23:55

But, you know, there is of course one group of people who use protein

0:23:550:23:59

more than any other and that's athletes.

0:23:590:24:01

They've long relied on it to help repair and build muscle,

0:24:010:24:04

so who better to find out whether it's as dangerous as some of

0:24:040:24:08

these headlines actually suggest than Paralympian Steve Brown?

0:24:080:24:12

When I was captain of the British wheelchair rugby team,

0:24:140:24:17

like most good athletes,

0:24:170:24:18

I knew the difference eating well could make to my performance.

0:24:180:24:22

Nice transition, Dave.

0:24:220:24:24

If I hadn't eaten properly,

0:24:240:24:25

I would never have made it to the London 2012 Paralympics.

0:24:250:24:28

One of the cornerstones of my diet was protein,

0:24:300:24:33

but it's not just athletes

0:24:330:24:34

for whom getting the right amount of it counts.

0:24:340:24:37

Even before I took up sport professionally,

0:24:370:24:39

my dad used to tell me you need protein for two things -

0:24:390:24:42

to grow up and to grow old.

0:24:420:24:44

Protein's essential for muscle growth, so it's crucial for kids.

0:24:440:24:47

And there's a long-held belief that you need it as you grow older too.

0:24:470:24:50

But in September 2016, one study made headlines around the world

0:24:500:24:55

saying that if we wanted to live a long and healthy life,

0:24:550:24:58

then we should opt for a low-protein diet.

0:24:580:25:00

And it was closely followed by further reports that said

0:25:000:25:03

a high-protein diet could actually increase the risk of heart failure.

0:25:030:25:07

The studies' findings are so different from traditional wisdom.

0:25:070:25:11

I want to find out more and see if

0:25:110:25:12

we need to start looking at protein differently.

0:25:120:25:15

It's agreed that kids need protein to grow and develop.

0:25:160:25:19

But I wonder how many of us see it as quite so vital as we get older.

0:25:190:25:24

How important do you see protein being?

0:25:240:25:28

I have to say, I'm a meat eater.

0:25:280:25:29

So, you know, I get protein from that.

0:25:290:25:31

But I just try to keep it as varied as possible.

0:25:310:25:34

I think protein is very good for you.

0:25:360:25:38

I'm 78 now and I've eaten meat all my life,

0:25:380:25:41

so it's not done me any harm, you know what I mean?

0:25:410:25:44

I think I eat quite a bit of protein.

0:25:440:25:46

Probably too much, because you've got

0:25:460:25:49

protein in all sorts of different things.

0:25:490:25:51

It is quite important, yeah, and I do try.

0:25:510:25:54

We always start the day on an egg.

0:25:540:25:56

It's long been known that as we get older,

0:25:560:25:59

we naturally lose muscle mass

0:25:590:26:01

and the best way to minimise this

0:26:010:26:03

is with a combination of exercise and protein.

0:26:030:26:06

But what's confusing are those headlines

0:26:060:26:09

that say a low-protein diet is the key to a long life.

0:26:090:26:12

Now, I've got to say, I find that really hard to believe.

0:26:120:26:16

70-year-old Lorelie Fox is taking part in a study

0:26:160:26:19

run by researchers here at Leeds Beckett University

0:26:190:26:23

into the very positive effect protein has on an ageing body.

0:26:230:26:27

I do want to keep mobile and I do have a very arthritic knee

0:26:270:26:32

and I don't want to have it replaced

0:26:320:26:34

and so the way to keep going is with...

0:26:340:26:37

with my original knee, is to keep moving.

0:26:370:26:39

And I love moving. Yes.

0:26:390:26:41

Yeah. I'm not sit-arounder.

0:26:410:26:43

I'm a get-up-and-doer.

0:26:430:26:46

Part of the study monitored Lorelie's muscle mass,

0:26:460:26:49

because by her age, we can expect

0:26:490:26:51

to have lost anything up to a quarter of it.

0:26:510:26:54

And by the age of 80, that muscle mass loss could be as much as half.

0:26:540:26:58

That can lead to a loss of strength and in turn, falls and injuries.

0:26:580:27:01

In fact, it's estimated that around 35% of people over the age of 60

0:27:010:27:06

will suffer a fall and need to go to hospital.

0:27:060:27:08

That's a growing cost for the NHS as the population gets older.

0:27:080:27:12

Why is the protein so important in this whole testing system?

0:27:120:27:16

If we don't take adequate protein through the diet,

0:27:160:27:20

it's more likely that we're going to lose muscle mass further,

0:27:200:27:23

and we do know from a number of research studies

0:27:230:27:25

and some of the studies that we've conducted here

0:27:250:27:29

that older people, they are in need for high protein intakes.

0:27:290:27:33

As part of the study, Lorelie had to stay active

0:27:330:27:36

and consume almost twice the amount of protein

0:27:360:27:39

that's normally recommended for adults.

0:27:390:27:41

Theo and his team then regularly checked her muscles for any change.

0:27:410:27:45

So, do you think that maybe an increase in protein intake

0:27:450:27:48

for Lorelie would make a difference for her?

0:27:480:27:50

Yeah, we believe it would make a difference for two reasons.

0:27:500:27:53

The first one is because we will be able to minimise further losses

0:27:530:27:57

in muscle mass, but ideally, what we would like to achieve

0:27:570:28:01

is to help her increase further the muscle mass

0:28:010:28:03

and ultimately strength, functional performance of daily activities.

0:28:030:28:07

So it's never too late to get stronger?

0:28:070:28:09

No, it's never.

0:28:090:28:11

While staying active might be easy for Lorelie,

0:28:110:28:14

consuming as much protein as Theo wants her to really isn't,

0:28:140:28:17

especially when you see

0:28:170:28:19

how the 90 grams he's recommending stacks up.

0:28:190:28:23

So, Theo, please talk me through this feast in front of us.

0:28:230:28:27

You can see almost a litre of milk here.

0:28:270:28:29

Four to five eggs, beef and nine slices of white bread.

0:28:290:28:33

So, this is the equivalent of approximately 30 grams of protein.

0:28:330:28:38

Why is the 30 grams important, of protein?

0:28:380:28:41

It's because research findings suggest

0:28:410:28:44

that you need to be getting approximately 30 grams per meal

0:28:440:28:48

at this age for this to be more effective,

0:28:480:28:51

because we become less responsive to protein as we get older.

0:28:510:28:55

So we need relatively high amounts, higher amounts, per meal.

0:28:550:28:59

Even when it comes to foods we often think of as high in protein,

0:28:590:29:03

like eggs, it can take a fair amount to reach the 30 grams

0:29:030:29:06

that Theo would like Lorelie to eat at every meal.

0:29:060:29:09

A litre of milk or nine slices of bread could be daunting too,

0:29:090:29:13

especially as, like many people in their 70s,

0:29:130:29:16

Lorelie doesn't have much of an appetite.

0:29:160:29:18

Lorelie, how on earth do you eat and drink this much every meal?

0:29:200:29:25

I find it absolutely terrifying.

0:29:250:29:27

I don't eat meat anyway.

0:29:270:29:28

I hardly ever eat bread.

0:29:280:29:31

I don't like milk...

0:29:310:29:32

And I think the maximum I've ever eaten is a three-egg omelette.

0:29:340:29:38

Looking at five, I'm going, "No, I don't think so."

0:29:380:29:41

So instead, Theo has devised a high-protein bar

0:29:420:29:46

which is easier for Lorelie to manage,

0:29:460:29:48

and it's hoped this combination of protein and exercise

0:29:480:29:51

will keep her active for many years to come.

0:29:510:29:53

Everything I've seen today makes me think

0:29:560:29:58

my dad was right to say we need protein to grow old.

0:29:580:30:01

But it's strange the newspapers are saying we don't need so much protein.

0:30:030:30:07

It's a controversial claim I've asked dietician Linia Patel to look into.

0:30:070:30:11

Linia, it's saying here, low protein, high carb is the key to long life.

0:30:110:30:16

Which is almost backwards from what I heard.

0:30:160:30:18

Now, you're the expert. Can you help me out here?

0:30:180:30:21

Well, this headline is just not true.

0:30:210:30:23

We know that as you get older,

0:30:230:30:25

you need more protein to make sure that you're not losing

0:30:250:30:29

that very, very important muscle mass.

0:30:290:30:31

After closer examination of the research behind the story,

0:30:310:30:34

Linia spotted that it's only related

0:30:340:30:37

to a tiny part of a much bigger study,

0:30:370:30:40

and what's more, only to mice.

0:30:400:30:42

A wider study conducted on humans produced far less clear-cut results.

0:30:420:30:47

What's interesting about this study, the bottom line goes back to, well,

0:30:470:30:50

actually, following the Mediterranean diet

0:30:500:30:53

which does not have a low protein intake.

0:30:530:30:55

Actually, it's a very much moderate protein intake.

0:30:550:30:57

So it looks at the amount of protein and types of different protein,

0:30:570:31:01

so you can't just isolate it to one thing.

0:31:010:31:03

It's, again, in the context of a healthy, balanced diet.

0:31:030:31:06

But when it says low protein, high carbs,

0:31:060:31:09

that's a reference to an amount.

0:31:090:31:12

What is a low-protein diet?

0:31:120:31:14

How much are you saying maybe you should be having?

0:31:140:31:16

The government guidelines for protein intake are

0:31:160:31:19

that we need to take 0.7 grams per kilogram body weight,

0:31:190:31:22

so that's the government recommendation.

0:31:220:31:24

So, low protein intake would be anything below that.

0:31:240:31:27

So, an average woman weighing 70 kilograms

0:31:270:31:30

needs about 50 grams of protein a day.

0:31:300:31:32

And an average 85 kilogram man needs about 60 grams of protein.

0:31:320:31:36

And don't worry if you've no idea

0:31:370:31:39

how much you'd need to eat to get it right.

0:31:390:31:42

Linia's got what you might call a rule of thumb

0:31:420:31:45

to help you work it out.

0:31:450:31:46

We all have a very clever way of doing that,

0:31:460:31:49

which is using your hand.

0:31:490:31:50

So, if you use the palm of your hand and the thickness of your palm,

0:31:500:31:55

that would be your portion that you need to eat

0:31:550:31:58

when you're eating chicken or red meat.

0:31:580:32:00

For white fish, a good portion would be your whole hand.

0:32:000:32:04

That equals one portion or about half your daily amount

0:32:040:32:08

when it comes to foods high in protein, like fish or lean meats.

0:32:080:32:12

But for foods with higher fat contents,

0:32:120:32:15

Linia's got a much smaller measure.

0:32:150:32:17

OK, now, the portion of sausages that you can eat

0:32:170:32:20

-would be the size of your middle finger.

-Right.

0:32:200:32:24

Because, to be honest, a sausage is not really a good source of protein.

0:32:240:32:28

-No.

-It's got more fat than it does protein,

0:32:280:32:30

so what we need to do then is really limit the portion.

0:32:300:32:32

So, it would be the size of your middle finger.

0:32:320:32:35

This is cheese, thumb.

0:32:350:32:36

So we have a thumb of cheese.

0:32:360:32:38

-Yeah.

-A palm of chicken.

0:32:380:32:40

A hand of fish.

0:32:400:32:42

-Yeah.

-And a finger of sausage.

0:32:420:32:44

Finger of sausage! Spot on.

0:32:440:32:46

Linia reckons, if you eat a balanced diet,

0:32:460:32:49

you should already be getting the right amount of protein,

0:32:490:32:52

but as an athlete, I was always told

0:32:520:32:54

having extra protein was essential to repair my muscles

0:32:540:32:58

and make them stronger.

0:32:580:32:59

I've also seen headlines which say that the extra supplements

0:33:010:33:04

I used to take could have helped with that.

0:33:040:33:06

Even now I'm retired, I still have extra protein,

0:33:080:33:11

but from what Linia says, I might not need to.

0:33:110:33:14

And I'm guessing the professor I'm about to meet

0:33:140:33:16

may well agree with her.

0:33:160:33:18

This morning, I had a breakfast cereal with added protein.

0:33:180:33:23

-Any need?

-No, no need at all.

0:33:230:33:26

You could have had muesli or porridge.

0:33:260:33:28

That would have done. If you have milk with it,

0:33:280:33:31

that will give you some good quality protein as well,

0:33:310:33:33

so just ordinary breakfast cereal's quite enough.

0:33:330:33:36

So I didn't need those supplements and extra proteins

0:33:360:33:39

whilst I was an athlete and in training.

0:33:390:33:41

Then I certainly don't need them now?

0:33:410:33:43

No. No, I don't think you do at all.

0:33:430:33:45

I think what people don't realise,

0:33:450:33:47

that there is an adequate amount of protein in the food we eat.

0:33:470:33:50

If you eat real food - and real food I would take things like bread,

0:33:500:33:53

pasta, rice as real food - and you're eating, you know,

0:33:530:33:58

nuts and beans and stuff and some meat, you'll be fine.

0:33:580:34:02

-A balanced diet.

-Balanced diet.

0:34:020:34:04

Don't take a bad diet to a good diet by taking supplements

0:34:040:34:06

and if you've got a good diet,

0:34:060:34:07

taking extra supplements isn't going to turn it into a super diet.

0:34:070:34:11

So it turns out that my old dad was right after all.

0:34:130:34:16

We do need protein to grow up and to grow old.

0:34:160:34:19

But a balanced diet will do the job.

0:34:190:34:21

Even to help rebuild muscles

0:34:210:34:23

thrashed by a good game of wheelchair rugby.

0:34:230:34:26

For recipes inspired by some of

0:34:360:34:38

the stories in today's programme, visit...

0:34:380:34:41

..where you'll also find other ideas relating to some of the topics

0:34:430:34:46

we're looking at throughout the series.

0:34:460:34:48

Earlier in the programme,

0:34:540:34:56

we met the Jerome family in Bristol who are helping me find out

0:34:560:34:59

which generation eats best and which eats worst.

0:34:590:35:02

I've already met 11-year-old Josh and 18-year-old Alice,

0:35:020:35:06

but do their grandparents,

0:35:060:35:08

87-year-old June and 90-year-old John,

0:35:080:35:11

eat better or worse than them?

0:35:110:35:13

When they were teenagers, post-war mealtimes were all pretty healthy.

0:35:140:35:18

On a Sunday, it would be the roast dinner.

0:35:180:35:21

That would last up to about the Wednesday, to Thursday.

0:35:210:35:25

Sometimes in a stew.

0:35:250:35:26

It was all very nourishing to my way of thinking.

0:35:260:35:30

I mean, I always felt we were well fed.

0:35:300:35:32

Though these days they have more processed stuff too,

0:35:340:35:37

June and John still eat plenty of home-cooked food.

0:35:370:35:40

And they say that for the younger generation of the family,

0:35:400:35:43

things aren't all as bad as we've been told.

0:35:430:35:46

What do you think about the diet of people today?

0:35:460:35:50

Well, it's different, isn't it?

0:35:500:35:51

I think they're very aware

0:35:510:35:53

of what they should eat and what they shouldn't eat now, really.

0:35:530:35:57

-OK.

-Because my grandson, you know,

0:35:570:35:59

he knows all about calories and he loves his greens and all that.

0:35:590:36:04

I think it's healthier food now.

0:36:040:36:06

They have more fruit to eat.

0:36:060:36:08

I mean, when I see all the fruit my daughter buys out for her family...

0:36:080:36:13

I know Jo tries to buy, like, all the fruits that's good.

0:36:130:36:17

As a greengrocer, that's music to my ears.

0:36:180:36:21

So it's high time I found out more

0:36:210:36:23

from the people who cook for the whole household, Jo and Simon.

0:36:230:36:27

Who would you say eats the most veg out of everybody?

0:36:290:36:32

Getting Josh to eat a Brussels sprout is a challenge.

0:36:320:36:35

Out of this, what sort of thing would Josh go for?

0:36:350:36:39

There's a big pile of fruit in the front which he's very keen on.

0:36:390:36:42

That's his big thing.

0:36:420:36:44

-That's his.

-Pomegranates at the moment are his latest phase.

0:36:440:36:47

Certainly, the fish fingers.

0:36:470:36:49

Jo and Simon's weekly shop is packed with a whole host of foods,

0:36:490:36:53

both fresh and processed.

0:36:530:36:55

And while this lot will feed all the family,

0:36:550:36:57

they can keep a closer eye on what young Josh eats

0:36:570:37:00

because they make almost all his meals.

0:37:000:37:02

How much control or input would Josh have on the food that he eats?

0:37:040:37:10

Quite a lot, I think, because, you know,

0:37:100:37:12

we want to feed him what is good for him and also what he likes.

0:37:120:37:15

As long as he's involved in the cooking, and I think sometimes

0:37:150:37:18

having children involved in cooking means

0:37:180:37:20

they have some ownership and therefore would like to eat it.

0:37:200:37:23

And understand why we're cooking it.

0:37:230:37:26

And that's been a big part of what we've tried to do.

0:37:260:37:29

A Sunday roast with meat and veg

0:37:290:37:31

is a regular event in the Jerome household

0:37:310:37:34

and it's the type of meal that's changed very little since Jo,

0:37:340:37:37

Simon and even John and June were growing up.

0:37:370:37:40

But which generation had it best when they were teenagers?

0:37:400:37:44

John and June, who were teens just after the war,

0:37:440:37:46

or Jo and Simon in the early '80s?

0:37:460:37:49

Sophie Klassens is an expert in the history of the British diet

0:37:490:37:53

and she says when it comes to food, World War II had a positive legacy.

0:37:530:37:58

The golden era was the post-war rationing time

0:37:580:38:02

because the typical healthy foods

0:38:020:38:04

like fruits and vegetables weren't rationed at all

0:38:040:38:06

and we were actively encouraged

0:38:060:38:08

to eat lots of healthy fruit and vegetables

0:38:080:38:10

which nowadays we tend to see as expensive products

0:38:100:38:14

that take more preparation.

0:38:140:38:18

Post-war, we were getting plenty of fruit and vegetables.

0:38:180:38:21

The majority of us were getting our five a day, if not even more.

0:38:210:38:25

Whereas nowadays, in 11- to 18-year-olds,

0:38:250:38:28

so our teenagers,

0:38:280:38:30

potentially only about 8% of them are getting their five a day.

0:38:300:38:32

We might eat a bigger variety of fruit and veg now,

0:38:340:38:36

but it's never made up as much of our diet as it did after the war.

0:38:360:38:41

After rationing ended and the country became wealthier,

0:38:410:38:44

lifestyles changed and there was a wider variety of food.

0:38:440:38:47

In the '70s, work became more sedentary

0:38:470:38:50

whilst fast food and snacking between meals

0:38:500:38:52

changed the way we ate.

0:38:520:38:53

By the 1980s, when more women were at work,

0:38:530:38:56

microwaves and ready meals both grew in popularity

0:38:560:39:00

and over the decades, our waistlines just got bigger.

0:39:000:39:03

Obesity has greatly increased over the last 50 years.

0:39:050:39:09

Back in the '60s,

0:39:090:39:11

obesity was only at 1% or 2% of the population

0:39:110:39:14

whereas now it is closer to 25% of the population,

0:39:140:39:19

so there's been a real increase in obesity as has there been

0:39:190:39:23

an increase in diabetes which both continue to increase.

0:39:230:39:27

But do the habits of the Jerome family reflect the national picture?

0:39:270:39:30

Well, for the past week, they've been keeping a video diary for me.

0:39:300:39:34

This morning's breakfast just consists of

0:39:340:39:36

one piece of white toast with honey on it.

0:39:360:39:39

-What do they call that? Couscous?

-Green beans.

0:39:390:39:41

-Green beans.

-For tonight's supper, I've minced up Sunday's beef

0:39:410:39:46

and I'm just making some mashed potato to put on top.

0:39:460:39:49

But if we scoot back over to Josh, with a mouth very full

0:39:490:39:52

because he has just eaten a chocolate biscuit

0:39:520:39:55

and there are crumbs on his mouth to prove it.

0:39:550:39:58

Nutritionist Yvonne Bishop-Weston has analysed

0:40:000:40:03

what each of the three generations has eaten.

0:40:030:40:06

Hello, everybody.

0:40:060:40:08

-Hello.

-Hi.

-Hi.

0:40:080:40:09

And now she's reporting back on how they've all done.

0:40:090:40:13

So, the day starts really well, doesn't it, Josh?

0:40:130:40:16

With some granola and some extra almonds.

0:40:160:40:19

-Yeah.

-We've got lasagne one day, steak and chips one day,

0:40:190:40:22

roast dinner... And then chicken curry.

0:40:220:40:24

And proper dinner every night, which is brilliant,

0:40:240:40:27

so the only advice here on Josh's diet, which is good,

0:40:270:40:30

would be to get more vegetables in there.

0:40:300:40:32

Next is 18-year-old Alice.

0:40:320:40:33

Hers isn't too bad considering she's a teenager.

0:40:330:40:36

In Alice's diet, there were some really nice things

0:40:390:40:42

like some sushi and when she was going out and eating,

0:40:420:40:45

some bean burgers rather than beefburgers.

0:40:450:40:47

And some home-made food.

0:40:470:40:49

But sometimes missing meals and just having toast for tea.

0:40:490:40:53

And while Jo, Simon, John and June sat down

0:40:530:40:57

to freshly cooked evening meals every day,

0:40:570:41:00

there was a word of warning from Yvonne.

0:41:000:41:02

Over the whole family,

0:41:020:41:04

not enough veg was coming through quite strongly.

0:41:040:41:06

Most people not getting to their five a day

0:41:060:41:09

most of the time was coming through.

0:41:090:41:11

Does it surprise you that you're not getting your five a day?

0:41:110:41:14

I think when we sit down at the weekend on a Sunday or whatever,

0:41:140:41:19

piles of veg and no-one eats it.

0:41:190:41:21

During the week, it just becomes a little bit more difficult

0:41:210:41:25

to sort of... to fit it in around the meal.

0:41:250:41:27

But the question is, who amongst the three generations of this family

0:41:270:41:31

does Yvonne think eats the most healthily?

0:41:310:41:33

So, if I had to push you, if we had to pick a winner,

0:41:330:41:37

which of these lovely people would you say has the best diet?

0:41:370:41:41

-Do you know, I would probably pick Josh.

-Yeah?

0:41:410:41:44

Because at his age, a lot of the meals are not within his choosing.

0:41:440:41:48

They're not with in his control. Especially school lunch.

0:41:480:41:51

The fact that he's adding some almonds to his granola

0:41:510:41:54

and he's choosing fruit after school...

0:41:540:41:57

I think I'm going to choose Josh.

0:41:570:41:58

There we go. Are you pleased with that, Josh?

0:41:580:42:01

The crown!

0:42:030:42:04

Josh might be on the cusp of being a teenager

0:42:060:42:08

and joining the generation with the worst diet, but for now,

0:42:080:42:12

he's still enjoying the best diet of all,

0:42:120:42:14

that of our very youngest generation.

0:42:140:42:17

The children are doing the best, thank goodness!

0:42:170:42:19

We're looking after our children properly

0:42:190:42:21

and they mostly get the nutrients that they need.

0:42:210:42:24

That's thanks to parents

0:42:240:42:25

who know more about nutrition than ever before,

0:42:250:42:28

healthier school meals, lower levels of sugar in lots of foods

0:42:280:42:31

and a strong healthy-eating message.

0:42:310:42:33

Of course, who knows if Josh and his friends will take all that with them

0:42:330:42:37

as they grow up?

0:42:370:42:38

His mates will need to ditch those takeaway pizzas, for starters.

0:42:380:42:42

But here's hoping his generation will go on

0:42:420:42:45

to buck the trend of terrible teen eating.

0:42:450:42:48

Now, since doing this programme,

0:42:560:42:57

I've really got used to seeing that there can be a lot more

0:42:570:43:00

to some of these headlines than meets the eye.

0:43:000:43:02

But I must say, I was quite shocked to discover just how much

0:43:020:43:06

off the mark the supposed benefits of coconut oil turned out to be.

0:43:060:43:09

And, you know, after making that film, I went straight home

0:43:090:43:12

and I threw away that big jar that we had

0:43:120:43:15

lurking at the back of the fridge.

0:43:150:43:16

Well, I'm certainly not going to rush out and buy any coconut oil,

0:43:160:43:19

that's for sure. And one thing I was relieved to discover

0:43:190:43:22

is that even if the headlines about bad teen diets are true,

0:43:220:43:25

we're at least feeding younger kids well, so let's hope that continues

0:43:250:43:28

-as they grow up.

-Absolutely right.

0:43:280:43:30

Now, that is where we have to leave it for today, I'm afraid.

0:43:300:43:33

But we're going to be back to discover the truth

0:43:330:43:36

behind more of the scare stories about food very soon.

0:43:360:43:39

But for now, thank you very much for your company and from both of us,

0:43:390:43:42

-bye-bye.

-Goodbye.

0:43:420:43:44

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