Episode 6 Rip Off Britain


Episode 6

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Transcript


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There's a lot we don't know about the food on our plates,

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and the shops and the labels don't always tell you the whole story.

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I think they encourage you to buy more than you need,

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and that causes a lot of waste.

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Whether you're staying in or going out,

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you've told us that you can feel ripped off by the promises made for

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what you eat and, indeed, for what you pay for it.

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How do you know that it's half price?

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So what they've done,

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they've bumped the price up and then knocked it down.

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From claims that don't stack up,

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to the secrets behind the packaging,

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we'll uncover the truth about Britain's food,

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so that you can be sure that you are getting what you expect,

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at the right price.

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Your food, your money, this is Rip-Off Britain.

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Hello and welcome to Rip-Off Britain.

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Now, in this series, we're investigating everything to do with what we eat,

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so that you can feel confident that the food you buy is exactly what you

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think it is. But as you'll see today, that isn't always the case,

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and we've been looking into some quite shocking occasions when that

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actually doesn't happen.

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In fact, you could call it food fraud,

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and it certainly raises the question of whether enough is being done to

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stop certain meals being made with ingredients that shouldn't be there.

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It's a really serious issue when you think about the consequences,

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especially for people with allergies, say,

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or maybe religious beliefs that forbid the eating of particular foods.

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Well, alarming as that case may be,

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it's not the only surprise on its way today,

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because we're going to be exposing the truth about what you might call

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posh nosh.

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You know, those food treats that we would like to splash out on,

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and I think you may be surprised to discover that not everything that

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you're paying those extra pennies for is as authentic as you would hope.

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But don't worry, because we'll have everything you need to know about

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how to stop you buying something that is not what you expect.

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Coming up...

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We test the takeaway curries that aren't what they seem or

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what we ordered.

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With even the lab astonished at what we found,

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could you have been eating an entirely different meat

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than the one you asked for?

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The results have been quite shocking.

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We've seen problems with substitution of meat from takeaways before,

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but never quite on this scale.

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And, with foods once considered expensive luxuries now regularly appearing

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on our supermarket shelves,

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could we sometimes be getting a poor substitute and not the real thing?

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We suspected that the truffles in our jar may have been potato that

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had been sculpted, which completely horrifies me.

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I think it's fair to say that we Brits love our takeaways.

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Do you know that over the last year, between us we've spent an incredible

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£6.5 billion on them?

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Well, one of the most popular takeaways is curry,

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first served in the UK way back in the 1700s,

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and in recent years pretty much adopted as our national dish.

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But I am sorry to say that sometimes what we're eating may not be what we

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think it is, because some curries billed as containing a particular meat

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might in fact be made with a different one altogether,

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which can cause rather more serious problems than simply concerns over

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taste or flavour.

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Now all this has echoes of the horse meat scandal several years ago,

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so we've been ordering a few takeaways of our own, and guess what?

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Not all of them contained the meat they were supposed to.

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Each week, millions of us will order food from one of around 12,000 curry

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houses in the UK.

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But sometimes what's on the menu isn't what's in the dish.

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A recent investigation by the Food Standards Agency discovered that some

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curry houses are advertising lamb but actually serving a different mixture

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of meats - beef, chicken, mutton. Some lamb curries, in fact,

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contain no lamb at all.

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The investigation found that of the 307 lamb dishes sampled, 65 of them,

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that's 21%,

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had traces of other meats that hadn't been declared as being there.

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And though some of those had only low levels of undeclared meats,

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indicating nothing more sinister than poor handling,

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in the majority of cases it was a very different story,

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and the higher levels found suggest that the curry houses concerned were

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deliberately replacing the lamb with significantly cheaper meats,

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like beef or chicken.

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It's a deception which experts say is motivated by money.

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So we've known for many years that

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lamb is a premium meat,

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and it's been substituted fraudulently by the use

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of beef and chicken.

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It hasn't gone away, I'm guessing, because it's still profitable.

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The retailer is responsible to ensure that the product complies

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with food safety requirements and labelling legislation.

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Well, across the country,

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Trading Standards teams have been cracking down on this type of fraud.

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Last year, a takeaway in Rochdale got a £6,000 fine

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for serving chicken and beef instead of lamb.

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A Nuneaton curry house owner was fined nearly £1,800 for selling beef

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and calling it lamb.

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And in 2014,

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investigators in Teesside found that a staggering 41% of takeaways

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sampled were advertising lamb that was actually beef.

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But even with all those lovely spices and flavours alongside the

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meat, you might wonder, as I initially did,

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how the curry houses doing this manage to fool their customers into

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thinking they're eating one meat when they're actually chowing down

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on another.

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So we found the perfect guinea pigs to help put that to the test,

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a team of self-confessed curry lovers in the city said to be the

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birthplace of the balti - Birmingham.

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I want to ask you guys, who likes curry?

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-Love it.

-Yeah.

-Right.

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Which curries do you really like?

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-Tikka masala, probably.

-Chicken tikka jalfrezi.

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-Balti.

-Madras, got to be a madras.

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-Yeah.

-A bit of heat.

-Yeah, what kind of meat do you like in your curry?

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-Chicken.

-Chicken.

-Chicken.

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Ever tried lamb?

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-Special occasions!

-Yeah.

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So, as this lot head back to their training,

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on the other side of the city we're preparing them a curry,

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Rip-Off Britain style.

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We'll see if they can spot that the meat they'll be told they're eating

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isn't the whole story when it comes to what's actually on their plate.

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In other words, replicating what Trading Standards say is happening

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in some curry houses nationwide.

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Today, I'm going to cook beef and I will pretend it's like lamb.

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Cooking for our footballers is Aksar,

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the head chef of the Tipu Sultan restaurant,

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which scooped two gongs at the English Curry Awards last year.

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And while he and his team would never serve one meat and then make out

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it's another that's more expensive,

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we asked Aksar to show us what less reputable establishments may be getting up to.

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So, he's going to make what looks like a chicken and lamb curry but with

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cheaper beef instead of lamb.

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The question is - will our footballers be able to tell?

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So first I take out some beef and soak in the water, like 15, 20 minutes,

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and blood comes out.

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Once Aksar has soaked the beef,

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he chops it up small to disguise the texture.

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He then boils the meat to really take away any flavour.

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It will take an hour 15, an hour 20 minutes like this.

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So nobody can judge it's beef.

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Finally, Aksar adds the chicken to the beef and once it's cooked through,

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voila, a curry,

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but not the one our footballers will think they're getting.

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Do sit down.

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Welcome to the world's most stylish curry house!

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OK, so just a little bit of information about this curry.

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'I tell them it's a chicken and lamb curry.

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'Will they spot that it's not?'

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So, heads down, aim for the finishing line

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and we want to know what you think of it.

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Mm.

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Did I hear a "mm"?

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-Really nice.

-Nice, yeah, it's really nice.

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-The lamb's not chewy.

-No, it's not.

-No.

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'They're eating now and the reaction is really interesting.

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'I mean they're all saying it is absolutely delicious but several'

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of them have said they love the lamb.

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-It's well cooked. Really nice.

-Yep.

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So, so far, so good.

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I think they're in for a surprise.

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'Time to reveal the truth.'

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So, what do you reckon?

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-Lamb was really nice.

-Yeah.

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-Really good.

-Was it nicely cooked?

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Yeah. A bit of a kick to it.

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Well, now you've finished your meals, I've got some news for you.

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The lamb and chicken curry I gave you to eat actually contained no lamb,

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it was beef and chicken.

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The beef meat was washed and treated in all sorts of ways to make it more

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like lamb but it wasn't lamb.

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A bit shocked, really.

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There's no way I would have told the difference, it being beef, not lamb.

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But I think if I had found that out, quite distressing really.

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From the quality of what it was,

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I wouldn't be able to tell, to be honest.

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I think most people who have a curry

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might have had a few beers and as long as the quality is good,

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there is nothing to complain, the lamb tasted like lamb,

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so I think 90% of people wouldn't complain about it,

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because it did taste the way it was supposed to be.

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The fact at that you've told us that we were having lamb,

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I think showed around the table that people thought they were eating lamb.

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So, obviously if you're telling us we're eating it,

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somebody in a restaurant is telling you you're eating it,

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you're not going to know.

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Well, we certainly pulled the wool over their eyes.

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They were completely taken in by the so-called lamb and chicken curry.

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All of which proves that with some clever cooking and the art of

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persuasion, even the most ardent curry lover

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could be fooled into thinking they're eating something they're not,

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leaving the industry wide open to this type of fraud.

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And that's a huge concern for Syed Bilal Ahmed.

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-Hello, Julia.

-'He's editor of Curry Life magazine.

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'And a true connoisseur.

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'And he's not happy about the unscrupulous curry houses

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'who give his industry a bad name.'

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How much of a problem is this?

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It is increasingly becoming a problem.

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I've been reporting on it for a while.

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I've seen a few cases here and there.

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I'm just shocked because some restaurants are taking short cuts

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to use substandard ingredients.

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Is it your sense that people are careless in the kitchen?

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I think sometimes.

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I think the restaurants or whoever is in charge in the kitchen, chef,

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is not taking responsibility of things, of the ingredients.

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If I am a smart chef, straightaway I can see

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the difference between lamb and beef.

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When it comes to things like religious differences or perhaps

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dietary requirements, then it's quite a serious issue, isn't it?

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It is a very serious issue.

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If I'm a Hindu, and I am served beef

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without being told this is a beef,

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then I'll be seriously offended

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because it does hurt my religious feelings.

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Hindus traditionally revere cows as a symbol of sustenance and life,

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so they don't eat them.

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And at this Hindu temple in Bradford,

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it's clear that eating beef, even unknowingly,

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would be a real problem for many of the Sikhs and Hindus who've come here today.

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If I would get

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served beef instead of lamb, I think I would be really furious about it,

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because that's against my religion, not to eat beef, for a start.

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You pay for something that you love to eat.

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Something that you like to have. When you get served something else,

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then obviously it's not right.

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As Hindus, beef is not on the menu in any way,

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because the cow has been the top most well-praised or well-respected

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animal in our faith.

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So any beef will be very, very offending to us.

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We have never eaten beef through generations,

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so it's something which is really out of our bounds.

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It's important that you get what you pay for,

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not just from a religious aspect but

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you wouldn't go into a pub and order a pint and then get some lemonade or

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something that has no alcohol in it.

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It's just basics of life.

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It's not a case of religion in this aspect,

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it's what you've paid for, generally.

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Well, we were keen to know if things had improved since the FSA

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investigation in 2015 and if some curry houses are still selling takeaways

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they say contain lamb but which do no such thing.

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So we've enlisted the help of this lab in Worcester,

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which tests food for local councils across the country.

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They can tell lamb from beef at molecular level.

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DNA work is about 50% of the work that we do in this laboratory.

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The authenticity of meat has carried on really since the horse meat scandal.

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Well, later in the programme, you can see what happened

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when we sent to the lab five curries

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that we bought from a cross-section of takeaways in Bradford,

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the city crowned curry capital of the year six years in a row.

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In terms of takeaways,

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a conscious decision has been made to substitute a cheaper meat

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for a more expensive meat. It's not an issue of contamination,

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or someone making a mistake.

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It's a pure and simple economic fraud.

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Now here's a question - who doesn't enjoy a taste of the high life?

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A bit of posh nosh to make a meal feel decadent

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or to impress that special someone.

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Well, I'm sure you've noticed that

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several of the things that used to be considered luxury food items

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and are now widely available for us all to enjoy,

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and sometimes at surprisingly reasonable prices.

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But it's clear from the e-mails we've received

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that I'm not the only one to have wondered how on earth they do it.

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So with some of you asking if we are genuinely getting what we think

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we are, and not a pale imitation, we've been sampling

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what at least appears to be some of the finer things in life.

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Lobster, truffles and caviar -

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once the preserve of the great and the good,

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but now sold by most major supermarkets in some shape or form,

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whether it's olive oil infused with their flavours

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or pasta dishes boasting them as ingredients.

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But can we be sure that everything we now see

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offered at more affordable prices is the real deal,

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or quite the exclusive taste we expect?

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One Rip-Off Britain viewer who enjoys indulging in

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some of life's finer things is jazz singer Alison Taylor,

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who lives in Perthshire. She has a penchant for truffles

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and on a recent trip to Italy was given some as a gift.

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But she wrote to us, curious as to whether what she's got

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is really the genuine article.

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Truffles, I have a big love affair with truffles,

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because they're so pungent

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and strong and nutty and earthy in their flavour.

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They're just so unique.

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And also the simplicity of the truffle on pasta,

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that's a massive plus for me. I love truffles.

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The food Alison loves so much

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is an edible fungi that grows underground.

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It has a very distinctive earthy taste and firm texture,

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and although there are many species,

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some are more prized for their flavour than others.

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It's safe to say Alison is a fan, but she knows that a jar this size

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wouldn't come cheap.

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In fact, single fresh truffles can cost around £30 each.

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So she wanted to savour them and use them sparingly.

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The jar of truffles sat in the fridge for a few weeks

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before we decided to open up the jar,

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and that was for a special occasion.

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So we really built up to this occasion -

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we'll have some fabulous pasta,

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we'll shave the truffle onto the pasta,

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and it was just such a big disappointment

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when the jar was finally opened.

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The pungent aroma Alison had fallen in love with

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during her time spent tasting truffles in Italy

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was, she felt, notably absent.

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I was expecting, when I opened the jar,

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to be walloped in the face with the smell of Italy

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and great food and this truffle sensation,

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but that just didn't happen.

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Instead, Alison felt her truffles had a more vinegary odour,

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which struck a real bum note with the singer,

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particularly after some rumours she had heard

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about some products on the market.

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Our close friends in Italy warned us

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that the Chinese had been sculpting potato into the shape of truffles

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and scenting them up and dyeing them.

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And we suspected that the truffles in our jar

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may have been potato that had been sculpted,

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which completely horrifies me.

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I would like to find out what's in the jar

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and if it's actually truffles.

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But the contents of her own jar

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isn't the only thing that's got Alison in a truffle kerfuffle.

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There's lots of truffle oils on the market as well.

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I'm interested to know whether it's authentic truffle,

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it's been scented up chemically,

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or if it's been scented with actual truffle proper,

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the essence of real truffle.

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Truffle expert Dr Paul Thomas

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is ready to unearth the truth behind Alison's truffle conundrum.

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He has a PhD in plant science

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and runs a company which cultivates truffles worldwide.

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Alison is here to meet him and do some digging of her own.

0:18:140:18:16

I was gifted some truffles but when I opened up the jar,

0:18:180:18:21

it didn't taste or smell of anything.

0:18:210:18:23

What tends to happen with those products in the jars

0:18:230:18:26

is they take the fresh truffles, they poach them in hot water,

0:18:260:18:28

all the flavour goes into the water,

0:18:280:18:30

a lot of the flavour goes into the water, they put that in a can

0:18:300:18:33

and they sell that to chefs and they cook with it,

0:18:330:18:35

and then they put the truffles into the jar and sell them to you and me.

0:18:350:18:38

So by the time it's got into the jar,

0:18:380:18:39

it's lost a lot of that wonderful aroma.

0:18:390:18:41

Dr Thomas can also explain how it is that many of the truffle products

0:18:440:18:48

on sale in supermarkets now seem so affordable.

0:18:480:18:51

What they did in the '80s,

0:18:520:18:54

they took one of the flavour compounds from truffles,

0:18:540:18:57

they synthesised it and produced it artificially

0:18:570:18:59

and then they started to produce truffle oil with it.

0:18:590:19:02

So when you buy truffle oil, even though it says natural flavouring,

0:19:020:19:05

they can call it natural flavouring, they can call it truffle extracts,

0:19:050:19:08

they can call it truffle concentrate

0:19:080:19:10

and it's pretty much always synthetic.

0:19:100:19:12

So, do you think that's a good justification for the prices?

0:19:120:19:18

Absolutely not.

0:19:180:19:20

It's a very cheap product to produce.

0:19:200:19:22

So we've asked Dr Thomas

0:19:220:19:23

to take a look at a couple of supermarket products

0:19:230:19:26

to see if the taste of luxury they appear to provide

0:19:260:19:29

is all that it seems.

0:19:290:19:31

First up, truffle pesto,

0:19:310:19:33

that costs around £2.50 for a 90g jar -

0:19:330:19:36

rather more than standard pesto.

0:19:360:19:39

In the ingredients we've got here, we've got flavourings, ubiquitous,

0:19:390:19:43

so that's probably some truffle flavouring within there.

0:19:430:19:45

But also this one contains black summer truffle.

0:19:450:19:49

You can see there's black specks in there.

0:19:490:19:51

So you think that's actually the black truffle?

0:19:510:19:53

Yeah, so, that should have a black truffle species in there.

0:19:530:19:56

Probably a lot of the flavouring's coming from

0:19:560:19:58

the synthetic flavour they put in, but that has real truffle in.

0:19:580:20:02

Next up, some truffle-infused pasta, costing £3.

0:20:020:20:05

This says it's got mushrooms in,

0:20:070:20:09

truffle - 0.2%, so very small amounts.

0:20:090:20:12

-Tiny!

-And it doesn't even say the species, it says truffle,

0:20:120:20:15

so this could legitimately be Chinese truffle,

0:20:150:20:18

it could be French truffle, it could be Spanish truffle,

0:20:180:20:20

it could be English truffle, anything.

0:20:200:20:22

The likelihood is, it will be the cheapest.

0:20:220:20:24

As a truffle producer, do you think there should be

0:20:240:20:27

a tightening up of how truffles are described on products such as these?

0:20:270:20:31

Yeah. I'd love to see that.

0:20:310:20:32

The good things about these is it makes truffle flavour accessible.

0:20:320:20:35

So you can get a rough approximation of what they taste like.

0:20:350:20:38

So they're great to use at home, have a play around with,

0:20:380:20:40

but just be mindful that real truffles,

0:20:400:20:42

way more complex and a slightly different flavour profile.

0:20:420:20:45

Speaking of real truffle,

0:20:450:20:47

Alison's brought with her the ones she was given,

0:20:470:20:49

to see whether Dr Thomas can tell if they are bona fide.

0:20:490:20:53

I've actually brought them with me. Is that OK?

0:20:530:20:55

Well, thank you very much. I mean, it's listed as summer truffle.

0:20:550:20:58

It's even got the Latin name.

0:20:580:21:00

But, yeah, we'd have to have a closer look, actually.

0:21:000:21:03

I'll take them back and we'll try to extract some DNA

0:21:030:21:05

so hopefully we can get some good material from that.

0:21:050:21:07

-So we'll test them.

-Great, Paul. I really appreciate that.

0:21:070:21:10

Thank you for doing that for me.

0:21:100:21:12

Dr Thomas will take Alison's truffles to his lab

0:21:120:21:15

to see what he can find out.

0:21:150:21:17

As for the other products he looked at,

0:21:190:21:21

we asked the makers what actually goes into their truffle treats.

0:21:210:21:25

Tesco didn't get back to us

0:21:250:21:27

about its mushroom and truffle girasoli pasta.

0:21:270:21:30

And Sacla, the makers of the truffle pesto,

0:21:300:21:32

said that because truffles vary in flavour from season to season,

0:21:320:21:36

it does use some flavouring, in addition to real truffle,

0:21:360:21:39

to give it a consistent taste,

0:21:390:21:41

and they told us the reason its truffle pesto was more expensive

0:21:410:21:45

than regular pesto is partly because

0:21:450:21:47

it has a higher cheese and nut content as well.

0:21:470:21:50

Meanwhile, at his lab,

0:21:540:21:55

Dr Thomas has completed his tests on Alison's truffles.

0:21:550:21:58

Now, Alison is out of the country,

0:21:580:22:01

so we've turned to technology to connect them up

0:22:010:22:03

and find out if her suspicions are correct.

0:22:030:22:06

Could what she hoped would be a much-loved treat

0:22:060:22:09

really be potatoes posing as truffles?

0:22:090:22:12

Oh, gosh, I'm quite anxious to hear what the news is.

0:22:120:22:15

The key things really are, it was a truffle -

0:22:150:22:17

-it wasn't a potato, it was a real truffle.

-Oh, that's good.

0:22:170:22:20

Well, I'm heartened to hear that it actually was a truffle.

0:22:200:22:23

Yeah.

0:22:230:22:24

But I'm just a wee bit concerned that it still tasted of nothing.

0:22:240:22:27

Can you tell if the truffle actually came from Italy?

0:22:270:22:30

So when we checked the spores we know that it's from Europe,

0:22:300:22:34

but the sacs were quite empty,

0:22:340:22:36

so a lot of the spores hadn't quite developed,

0:22:360:22:38

so we know it was immature, so it had very little flavour,

0:22:380:22:40

probably, when it went into the preservation process.

0:22:400:22:43

And also, as you pointed out, you know, the smell really wasn't right,

0:22:430:22:46

so something happened throughout the preservation process

0:22:460:22:49

which rendered it bad.

0:22:490:22:51

It had a bad aroma and not a truffle aroma, but it was the right species.

0:22:510:22:55

Well, thank you so much, Paul,

0:22:550:22:57

for shining some light on my truffle and where it came from

0:22:570:23:00

and I'm really glad that it's actually a real truffle,

0:23:000:23:04

and it is from where it said it's from.

0:23:040:23:06

So after all it seems that Alison's truffle troubles

0:23:070:23:10

were down to preservation problems, and, according to Dr Thomas,

0:23:100:23:14

the contents of her jar being picked too young.

0:23:140:23:17

And while that's good news for her,

0:23:170:23:19

clearly it isn't always easy to know for sure if the food you've picked

0:23:190:23:23

really is one of the finer things in life.

0:23:230:23:25

What appears to be posh nosh may be no such thing.

0:23:250:23:29

And while you might think that it doesn't really matter

0:23:290:23:31

as long as the price is right and you enjoy it,

0:23:310:23:33

later on in the programme,

0:23:330:23:35

we'll hear why some people violently disagree.

0:23:350:23:37

I can't see how that can be £2.50, that £5, and that £100,

0:23:380:23:43

I just don't get it at all.

0:23:430:23:45

Caviar is the salted roe of the sturgeon fish.

0:23:450:23:48

It's not from the salmon, it's not from the trout,

0:23:480:23:50

it's not from the lump fish or the catfish roe.

0:23:500:23:53

They're worlds apart, worlds apart.

0:23:530:23:56

Next, more on our investigation into food fraud, and specifically,

0:24:010:24:06

curries that don't contain all the ingredients they should.

0:24:060:24:10

Well, we ordered in a few takeaways ourselves

0:24:100:24:12

and then sent them off to the lab for testing.

0:24:120:24:14

And the results will have you wondering if what we discovered

0:24:140:24:17

could even have happened to you.

0:24:170:24:19

Earlier, we joined a team of hungry footballers and provided them with

0:24:220:24:25

a very welcome post-match treat - an authentic Indian curry.

0:24:250:24:30

So heads down,

0:24:300:24:31

aim for the finishing line, and we want to know what you think of it.

0:24:310:24:35

What our footballers didn't know is that we had substituted the lamb

0:24:350:24:39

in their dishes for beef, and despite being seasoned curry lovers,

0:24:390:24:43

not one of them guessed the truth.

0:24:430:24:45

A bit shocked, really.

0:24:450:24:46

There's no way I would have told the difference,

0:24:460:24:49

it being beef, not lamb.

0:24:490:24:51

But I think if I had found that out, quite distressing, really, to find.

0:24:510:24:55

The fact that somebody in a restaurant is selling you meat,

0:24:550:24:58

and you're not going to know.

0:24:580:24:59

Now it's one thing to pull the wool over the eyes of a few footballers,

0:25:000:25:04

as we did - quite another to do it to paying customers.

0:25:040:25:07

But as we've discovered, that's exactly what

0:25:070:25:10

the Food Standards Agency found was being done

0:25:100:25:13

by a number of curry houses across the UK.

0:25:130:25:16

Dishes sold as containing lamb

0:25:160:25:18

in fact were made with cheaper beef, or chicken.

0:25:180:25:21

It's false, and it's not a good thing in general,

0:25:210:25:26

because people are obviously paying for this specific meat.

0:25:260:25:29

I'm a Muslim person and the food I eat should be kosher or halal.

0:25:290:25:35

If they said they're going serve you beef and then serve you lamb

0:25:350:25:38

or the other way around, then they shouldn't have done that.

0:25:380:25:41

It's kind of like cheating.

0:25:410:25:42

Yeah, I don't think that's good.

0:25:420:25:44

Mainly for, like, religious people who wouldn't eat, say, beef,

0:25:440:25:47

and also just for health reasons, you know.

0:25:470:25:49

Some people prefer to eat white meat.

0:25:490:25:51

And it's just like the moral of it -

0:25:510:25:52

ethically, you would rather know what you're eating.

0:25:520:25:55

Well, it's been over three years

0:25:550:25:57

since the horse meat scandal prompted the Food Standards Agency

0:25:570:26:01

to carry out its study into the whole issue of food fraud.

0:26:010:26:04

So we thought it was time to see what's changed

0:26:040:26:07

on the curry front, at least.

0:26:070:26:10

And where better to conduct our research than Bradford,

0:26:100:26:12

the town that's been crowned the UK's curry capital

0:26:120:26:15

for six consecutive years.

0:26:150:26:17

Firstly, we randomly selected five takeaways

0:26:190:26:22

which advertise lamb curries on their menus or online.

0:26:220:26:26

Posing as customers, we bought a lamb curry from each of them,

0:26:260:26:30

then took the dishes directly to a lab in Worcester.

0:26:300:26:33

It will be down to scientist Donna Hanks

0:26:340:26:36

to determine if the meat dishes we were sold

0:26:360:26:39

consist of the meat we asked for.

0:26:390:26:41

The test works by extracting DNA from the meat.

0:26:410:26:47

We do this by taking the meat from the samples that you brought us...

0:26:470:26:51

..mixing it with some special chemicals which will break down

0:26:520:26:55

the structure of the meat to release the DNA.

0:26:550:26:58

When the DNA is released, we can then run it on a special machine

0:26:580:27:03

that will look at specific small pieces of DNA

0:27:030:27:07

for each species that we are looking for.

0:27:070:27:10

Donna tests the meat of each of the five curries in turn.

0:27:120:27:16

So now we can work with this to see what species are in there.

0:27:180:27:22

Once the meat has been under the microscope,

0:27:220:27:25

it's time for the moment of truth.

0:27:250:27:28

Will any of the five takeaways we bought as lamb

0:27:280:27:31

actually contain any other meats?

0:27:310:27:34

The test leaves no doubt that beef has been substituted for lamb

0:27:350:27:39

in two out of the five curries.

0:27:390:27:42

Three of our five takeaways did contain lamb.

0:27:430:27:47

But the other two contained absolutely no lamb at all.

0:27:470:27:51

The results have been quite shocking.

0:27:510:27:53

We've seen problems with substitution of meat

0:27:530:27:56

from takeaways before but never quite on this scale.

0:27:560:27:59

To see if what we found was simply a mistake or a one-off,

0:28:000:28:04

we went back to the two Bradford curry houses

0:28:040:28:07

that sold us the fake lamb dishes.

0:28:070:28:09

Once again, posing as customers,

0:28:090:28:12

we asked for a lamb curry in both.

0:28:120:28:14

On our second visit to one of them,

0:28:140:28:16

we were told that they didn't sell lamb, so we left empty-handed.

0:28:160:28:20

We later contacted the owner

0:28:210:28:22

to see why we had previously been sold a lamb curry containing beef,

0:28:220:28:26

but have had no response to our letters and phone calls.

0:28:260:28:29

But it was a different story in the second takeaway.

0:28:320:28:35

We asked for a lamb curry,

0:28:350:28:36

and we were sold one without question

0:28:360:28:39

but when this second curry was tested at the lab,

0:28:390:28:42

once again, it turned out to be beef.

0:28:420:28:44

Well, we took our evidence to West Yorkshire Trading Standards

0:28:470:28:51

and with a potential case of food fraud in their hands

0:28:510:28:54

the team got straight on the case.

0:28:540:28:56

So I'm on my way to a takeaway to carry out a test purchase,

0:28:560:29:00

to see if the takeaway is describing it correctly or not.

0:29:000:29:03

Senior Trading Standards officer Jo Hamer,

0:29:040:29:07

is at the coalface of food fraud on a daily basis.

0:29:070:29:11

Her team investigates between 10 and 20 cases

0:29:110:29:14

of this kind of fraud every year,

0:29:140:29:16

so she sees first-hand the lengths that some businesses will go to

0:29:160:29:19

to cut their costs.

0:29:190:29:21

It's a tough job for Trading Standards officers

0:29:210:29:24

at the moment with the economy how it is.

0:29:240:29:27

There's more reason, I suppose, for businesses to cut corners

0:29:270:29:32

to try and win a quick buck here and there.

0:29:320:29:34

Jo is going back to the curry house

0:29:340:29:37

that twice sold us meat that it claimed was lamb,

0:29:370:29:40

though the tests proved it was beef.

0:29:400:29:42

She's going to order another lamb dish

0:29:420:29:44

to see if the same thing happens again.

0:29:440:29:47

We're going to test the meat for speciation,

0:29:470:29:49

which is to test what meat it is,

0:29:490:29:52

to see if the takeaway is describing it correctly or not.

0:29:520:29:54

Depending on what happens,

0:29:540:29:56

if they've got no defence, or mitigation,

0:29:560:29:58

then we'll instigate proceedings,

0:29:580:29:59

whether that be a form of caution or any other legal action against them.

0:29:590:30:04

Jo makes a start by ordering up the curry over the phone.

0:30:050:30:09

Hi. Can I place an order for collection, please?

0:30:090:30:12

A lamb curry, please.

0:30:120:30:14

Medium, please. Yes, please.

0:30:150:30:18

Brilliant. Thank you. Bye.

0:30:190:30:20

Posing as a customer,

0:30:240:30:25

Jo goes in and buys what the shop says is a lamb curry

0:30:250:30:29

and at no point while she was buying it

0:30:290:30:32

did anyone say it would be anything other than lamb.

0:30:320:30:35

Once the purchase is complete, she reveals who she is,

0:30:350:30:39

the friendly neighbourhood Trading Standards officer.

0:30:390:30:43

Then it's off to a different lab for Jo's takeaway,

0:30:430:30:46

where Dr Duncan Campbell is tasked with testing it.

0:30:460:30:50

Over the years, Dr Campbell's work has helped convict food fraud cases.

0:30:500:30:54

In terms of takeaways,

0:30:560:30:58

a conscious decision has been made to substitute a cheaper meat

0:30:580:31:01

for an expensive meat.

0:31:010:31:02

It's not an issue of contamination or someone making a mistake.

0:31:020:31:05

Generally, when the incident is investigated,

0:31:050:31:08

it's found that the owner of the takeaway is buying beef,

0:31:080:31:13

knows that beef is being bought, the menu description says lamb.

0:31:130:31:18

It's a pure and simple economic fraud.

0:31:180:31:20

After conducting a DNA test on the third curry

0:31:200:31:23

this particular establishment supplied, the results are in.

0:31:230:31:27

The curry was tested for speciation, so it was tested for the presence

0:31:270:31:32

of cow, goat, pig, and sheep,

0:31:320:31:34

and it's only found that there was cow present in the sample.

0:31:340:31:38

As with the two previous curries that we bought,

0:31:380:31:41

beef was the only meat present.

0:31:410:31:43

There was absolutely no lamb.

0:31:430:31:47

So it wasn't a particular surprise to me, unfortunately.

0:31:470:31:49

It is quite prevalent throughout West Yorkshire.

0:31:490:31:52

We've done quite a bit of sampling in this area and have found

0:31:520:31:54

quite a few cases that have been beef, as opposed to lamb.

0:31:540:31:57

We contacted the takeaway for an explanation but it made no comment.

0:31:590:32:03

Yorkshire's Trading Standards team will keep contacting the business

0:32:030:32:07

and aim to work with it to improve its food practices.

0:32:070:32:10

If the business doesn't respond or make improvements,

0:32:100:32:13

further action will be taken.

0:32:130:32:15

But with food fraud still an issue right across the country,

0:32:160:32:19

Trading Standards here isn't relying on simply a punitive approach

0:32:190:32:23

to get it under control.

0:32:230:32:25

With offences such as these,

0:32:250:32:27

we've been working with an alternative resolution,

0:32:270:32:31

which has been to offer them a caution,

0:32:310:32:32

but then also visiting the premises to get their compliance,

0:32:320:32:35

to educate them so that they can comply

0:32:350:32:38

and we've seen much better results in these than just going to court

0:32:380:32:42

because we're working with the takeaway, as well, to get it right.

0:32:420:32:46

But if that doesn't work, tougher action may be required.

0:32:460:32:50

When a business commits food fraud,

0:32:500:32:52

depending on what offences we took to court,

0:32:520:32:54

the outcome of that could be a considerable fine or imprisonment.

0:32:540:32:59

As well as that, it will most likely be in the media.

0:32:590:33:01

So it's the bad publicity

0:33:010:33:02

and potential representational damage to the business.

0:33:020:33:05

Well, what we've found suggests there may well be plenty more

0:33:050:33:08

curry houses substituting cheaper meat

0:33:080:33:11

for the kind that you've paid for,

0:33:110:33:13

and while, as we've seen, that is not always simple to spot,

0:33:130:33:16

if you have any cause to suspect food fraud,

0:33:160:33:19

it is worth getting in touch with your local Trading Standards,

0:33:190:33:23

or, indeed, with us.

0:33:230:33:24

There are several ways to contact us with any of your food concerns.

0:33:300:33:34

Or, indeed, if you've got a story that you'd like us to investigate,

0:33:340:33:37

you can get in touch via our Facebook page,

0:33:370:33:40

which is BBC Rip Off Britain,

0:33:400:33:42

our website... bbc.co.uk/ripoffbritain,

0:33:420:33:46

or e-mail us at [email protected].

0:33:460:33:50

Or if you'd rather send us a letter, then our postal address is...

0:33:500:33:53

Getting value for money is a subject very close to my own heart

0:34:040:34:07

and judging from your letters and e-mails,

0:34:070:34:09

it's something that you care passionately about, as well.

0:34:090:34:11

When every penny counts,

0:34:110:34:13

we want to give you the confidence to spend it wisely.

0:34:130:34:16

So this next story will do just that.

0:34:160:34:18

As we heard earlier in the programme,

0:34:210:34:23

it does seem to be getting easier to treat ourselves

0:34:230:34:25

to some of the finer things in life.

0:34:250:34:27

But increased availability may not always mean

0:34:270:34:31

we're getting quite the luxury goods we think we're paying for.

0:34:310:34:34

So on our quest to sort the best wheat from the cheap chaff,

0:34:350:34:38

we're delving deeper into the luxury food market,

0:34:380:34:41

to see how we can work out if what we're buying is the real deal

0:34:410:34:45

or, indeed, worth it?

0:34:450:34:46

And it seems that, like me,

0:34:480:34:50

many of you are always on the hunt for more for less.

0:34:500:34:54

Obviously if somebody said there is some cheap posh nosh going,

0:34:540:34:57

like a fiver for a lobster, I'd buy it, yeah.

0:34:570:35:00

I don't really value caviar and lobster,

0:35:000:35:03

mainly because I'm a normal eater

0:35:030:35:05

and I value normal foods like fruit and vegetables.

0:35:050:35:09

If I go to a more high-end posh supermarket, salmon,

0:35:090:35:13

I can think, can be £6, £7.

0:35:130:35:15

But then you can go to a more budget store

0:35:150:35:18

and you can get it for £3 or £4.

0:35:180:35:20

So it is a luxury food but it's obtainable, as well,

0:35:200:35:24

at a cheaper price.

0:35:240:35:26

Maybe it's worth paying for for some people but not, like, other people.

0:35:260:35:29

Not people who, you know, walk through this market now and then.

0:35:290:35:32

So to discover what makes posh nosh...well, posh,

0:35:340:35:38

we've come to meet Angela Clutton, a food historian,

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who's studied how our eating habits have changed throughout the ages.

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It all depends on what's happening in society.

0:35:450:35:48

Back when people used to grow their own carrots and peas,

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there is nothing posh about being able to do that

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but what would have been posh, is late 1800s, turn of the century,

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you were able to have pineapples - something exotic on your table

0:35:570:36:01

because you had a hothouse, or a greenhouse, to be able to do that.

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That was posh, that showed your status.

0:36:040:36:06

When food is difficult to get hold of,

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the price of getting your hands on it will usually go up.

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But that's not the only reason

0:36:130:36:15

certain foods attract a luxury status.

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Almost any item of food could be posh,

0:36:170:36:20

if it just has to fulfil a few particular criteria.

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It could be that it's expensive.

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It could be that it's particularly seasonal,

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or from a particular place,

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or, sometimes, it could be that a certain kind of person enjoys it,

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and that's the aspirational lifestyle that people want,

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in order to make it posh.

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Angela believes that, across the centuries,

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it's supply and demand that's had the biggest impact on food trends,

0:36:380:36:42

particularly when it comes to seafood.

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Oysters are a posh food.

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They have had status but that very much didn't used to be the case.

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In the 1700s and the 1800s, we were awash with oysters.

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They were coming from Whitstable, from the Firth of Forth,

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there were millions of them coming in on the new railways.

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It was the food for the poor.

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It appeared in Lancashire hotpot, shepherd's pie, cottage pie,

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but because they were so popular, they were over-sourced,

0:37:030:37:06

the supply dwindled.

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So, now, we see that what happened to the status of those oysters

0:37:080:37:11

when there's fewer of them

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and that's why now today we think of oysters

0:37:130:37:15

as being something which is posh.

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In fact today, oysters are so in demand

0:37:180:37:20

that we've found restaurants charging a whopping

0:37:200:37:23

£34 for half a dozen.

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That's over £5 for one morsel.

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But, fear not, as oysters become unaffordable for many of us,

0:37:280:37:32

there's another seafood treat that you might be surprised

0:37:320:37:35

is increasingly within the grasp of all budgets,

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and that's lobster - one of my favourites -

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and it's all thanks to conditions

0:37:400:37:42

which have allowed lobsters to thrive.

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In the Atlantic, their major predators have been overfished.

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So with fewer cod coming after them and warmer seas to grow in,

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there's no shortage of lobster.

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There is a huge supply, so with cheaper lobster coming in

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from the Atlantic waters,

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that might now, for the first time, really change the status of lobster

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and it might not be posh.

0:38:020:38:04

While they're not quite ten a penny yet,

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there are certainly a greater number of special offers

0:38:070:38:10

and deals on them in supermarkets.

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A few months ago, Lidl ran a promotion,

0:38:130:38:16

offering lobster for £2.99.

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And in Iceland you can currently pick one up for even less,

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just £2.49.

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Half the price it was in 2014.

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And there's another culinary treasure you'll increasingly find

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nestled between the tinned tuna and whitebait.

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It's caviar - but this one's a little more complicated,

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and not just because of its price.

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In one store we found caviar on sale for just £2.50.

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Yet, in another, it will set you back over £200.

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So, what's the difference?

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Well, one person who considers those cheaper varieties decidedly fishy

0:38:490:38:54

is Kenneth Benning,

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who owns the UK's only Beluga caviar farm in Exmoor in Devon.

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He's unhappy that the word caviar is now used to describe

0:38:590:39:03

the fish eggs, or roe, of more species than he thinks is correct.

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Caviar is the salted roe of the sturgeon fish.

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It's not from the salmon, it's not from the trout,

0:39:110:39:14

it's not from the lumpfish or the catfish.

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It's a very specific fish and a very specific product.

0:39:160:39:19

And there's a reason for that.

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If you actually compare the two of them together,

0:39:200:39:23

the salmon roe or a trout roe with caviar from the sturgeon fish,

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caviar, they are worlds apart.

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Worlds apart.

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And that goes for the price, as well.

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Because Kenneth's caviar

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will set you back around £250 for a 125g tin.

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A figure which the farmer says

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is justified by the cost in producing it.

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Caviar is an expensive product.

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It takes nine, ten years to produce this product.

0:39:490:39:52

OK? And you've got to feed it every day, et cetera.

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And in farming terms, it's a risky and expensive product to produce.

0:39:540:39:58

Catfish roe, we're talking months.

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Salmon, we're talking less than a year.

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You know, you've got to take the basics of the feeding costs

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and the feeding costs of eight years versus one year.

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You'll get an idea why caviar costs so much money.

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The Government department DEFRA says caviar is traditionally associated

0:40:120:40:16

with the sturgeon fish,

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but it also says that the word caviar can be used

0:40:180:40:21

as a generic term to describe the roe from other fish species as well.

0:40:210:40:26

In such cases, however,

0:40:260:40:27

the packaging should clarify which species the eggs are from

0:40:270:40:31

and, in 2014, Aldi did cross the line

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when it claimed to be selling a bargain Beluga caviar,

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that was actually from a different type of sturgeon.

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After an outcry from experts and negative press coverage,

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the store was forced to relabel the lot.

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And while you might think none of this matters

0:40:490:40:51

if you're getting a tasty treat at an affordable price,

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we're curious as to whether shoppers know the difference

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between some of the fish eggs currently on offer.

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So we've taken to the streets

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armed with three different types of caviar.

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A 50g tin of Kenneth's Beluga, costing almost £100.

0:41:050:41:09

Salmon caviar, priced at a fiver,

0:41:090:41:12

and a lumpfish caviar costing £2.50.

0:41:120:41:15

Will this lot know their sturgeon from their salmon?

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It's what it says on the tin, caviar!

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Well, that's a different colour.

0:41:230:41:25

That's salmon, and that's Cornish salted.

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-Whatever that means?

-Is it more expensive?

0:41:270:41:30

Well, I don't think all three are the same

0:41:300:41:32

because the labelling suggests

0:41:320:41:34

that they come from different fish families.

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The Exmoor caviar is a genuine one

0:41:360:41:39

and the other two products are a derivative.

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Really, this can't be caviar, can it?

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I can't see how that can be £2.50, £5, and that £100?

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I just don't get it at all.

0:41:500:41:52

Now, of course all these brands do meet current regulations

0:41:530:41:56

and can legitimately be sold as caviar.

0:41:560:41:59

But the reactions we had suggest that some foods

0:42:000:42:03

do still have a luxury connotation.

0:42:030:42:06

And, perhaps, sometimes, we quite like it that way.

0:42:060:42:09

So if you like a slice of the high life,

0:42:090:42:12

the best advice is to shop clever and, as ever, check those labels.

0:42:120:42:16

Because as we've seen, while there are bargains to be had,

0:42:160:42:19

clearly there are all kinds of reasons

0:42:190:42:21

why posh food suddenly becomes affordable

0:42:210:42:24

and, in some cases, it might mean

0:42:240:42:26

it's no longer quite as posh as you would like.

0:42:260:42:29

Well, that's just about all we have time for today

0:42:290:42:35

but thanks to everybody who shared their experience,

0:42:350:42:39

or suggested a story for us to investigate.

0:42:390:42:41

I'll certainly be double checking the meat in my meals from now on.

0:42:410:42:45

But at least we do know where to turn

0:42:450:42:47

if it seems we might have been a victim of food fraud.

0:42:470:42:51

And if you missed the details of that earlier,

0:42:510:42:53

well, it's very easy,

0:42:530:42:54

because you can find them on our website, which,

0:42:540:42:56

just to remind you, is bbc.co.uk/ripoffbritain

0:42:560:43:01

And if you've got something you'd like us to look into on your behalf,

0:43:020:43:05

about food or anything else, then please do let us know.

0:43:050:43:08

We really appreciate all the e-mails and letters that you send us

0:43:080:43:12

and we'll be back to investigate

0:43:120:43:13

more of the things you've asked us about, very soon.

0:43:130:43:16

But until then, from all of us here,

0:43:160:43:17

-thanks for watching and goodbye.

-Bye.

-Bye.

0:43:170:43:21

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