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In the beginning, there was nothing but a dark, primordial ocean... | 0:00:10 | 0:00:15 | |
..but then two young gods, Izanagi and Izanami, | 0:00:18 | 0:00:23 | |
looked across the void and saw potential. | 0:00:23 | 0:00:26 | |
One day, they plunged a spear into the endless ocean and stirred. | 0:00:29 | 0:00:33 | |
When they removed the spear, | 0:00:34 | 0:00:36 | |
drops of water fell from its tip and formed a group of islands, | 0:00:36 | 0:00:41 | |
and together, these islands became the whole known world. | 0:00:41 | 0:00:45 | |
The gods called their creation Oyashima Kuni, | 0:01:04 | 0:01:08 | |
the land of the eight great islands. | 0:01:08 | 0:01:11 | |
Today its inhabitants call it Nihon, the Land of the Rising Sun - | 0:01:11 | 0:01:16 | |
but we know it by a different name. | 0:01:16 | 0:01:18 | |
Japan has fascinated me since I was a boy. | 0:01:27 | 0:01:31 | |
It's always seemed like a parallel universe, | 0:01:31 | 0:01:34 | |
a society so similar and yet so different from our own... | 0:01:34 | 0:01:38 | |
..and in this series, | 0:01:39 | 0:01:40 | |
I finally have my chance to explore the Japanese imagination. | 0:01:40 | 0:01:45 | |
I'll seek out its greatest artworks, both old and new... | 0:01:45 | 0:01:50 | |
..but this is also a journey into Japanese life. | 0:01:54 | 0:01:57 | |
I'll travel through its landscapes and its cities. | 0:01:58 | 0:02:02 | |
I'll enter its homes... | 0:02:03 | 0:02:04 | |
Wow! | 0:02:04 | 0:02:06 | |
..meet its craftspeople... | 0:02:06 | 0:02:08 | |
witness its rituals... | 0:02:08 | 0:02:10 | |
and even sample its food. | 0:02:10 | 0:02:12 | |
So, this little Bento box is like a work of art, | 0:02:12 | 0:02:15 | |
and it's almost too beautiful to eat. | 0:02:15 | 0:02:17 | |
Japan is a society in which so much is informed by aesthetics, | 0:02:22 | 0:02:28 | |
not just painting and sculpture, not just homes and gardens, | 0:02:28 | 0:02:31 | |
but the way you look at cherry blossom, the way you drink tea, | 0:02:31 | 0:02:34 | |
even the way you arrange your lunchbox. | 0:02:34 | 0:02:37 | |
And that's what I, as an art historian, | 0:02:37 | 0:02:39 | |
find so inspiring about this place. | 0:02:39 | 0:02:42 | |
In Japan, almost everything has the capacity to become art. | 0:02:42 | 0:02:47 | |
In this episode, | 0:02:51 | 0:02:52 | |
I'm going to explore Japanese attitudes to nature... | 0:02:52 | 0:02:56 | |
..from great landscape paintings and Zen gardens... | 0:02:58 | 0:03:02 | |
..to falling blossoms and soaring mountains. | 0:03:03 | 0:03:07 | |
The natural world is central to traditional Japanese aesthetics... | 0:03:09 | 0:03:13 | |
..and yet in modern Japan, that old relationship is deeply uncertain... | 0:03:15 | 0:03:19 | |
..but Japanese artists continue to work with nature, to revere it... | 0:03:22 | 0:03:27 | |
..and to draw inspiration from the landscape that surrounds them. | 0:03:29 | 0:03:33 | |
Japan is one of the most densely populated places on Earth. | 0:03:47 | 0:03:52 | |
It is famous around the world | 0:03:53 | 0:03:54 | |
for its vast cities and advanced technology. | 0:03:54 | 0:03:57 | |
Most of its citizens live far away from nature, | 0:03:58 | 0:04:01 | |
amid never-ending urban landscapes... | 0:04:01 | 0:04:04 | |
..and yet an astonishing 73% of Japan is uninhabited by humans. | 0:04:05 | 0:04:13 | |
Its mountains are so steep and its forests so dense | 0:04:13 | 0:04:16 | |
that people can barely penetrate them - | 0:04:16 | 0:04:19 | |
and, though beautiful, this country lives on a geological knife edge. | 0:04:19 | 0:04:24 | |
Japan contains 10% of the world's active volcanoes | 0:04:24 | 0:04:29 | |
and experiences a staggering 1,500 earthquakes a year. | 0:04:29 | 0:04:33 | |
In Japan, nature is ignored at one's peril. | 0:04:34 | 0:04:38 | |
These are the sacred Kii mountains in central southern Japan. | 0:04:53 | 0:04:57 | |
The Japanese have revered nature for millennia. | 0:05:02 | 0:05:05 | |
These beliefs are embodied in the country's native religion, | 0:05:11 | 0:05:14 | |
known today as Shinto... | 0:05:14 | 0:05:16 | |
..but, in some ways, it isn't even a religion. | 0:05:18 | 0:05:21 | |
Shinto has no founder, no scriptures. | 0:05:29 | 0:05:33 | |
For centuries, it didn't even have a name - | 0:05:33 | 0:05:36 | |
but it did believe the world is inhabited by spirits known as kami, | 0:05:36 | 0:05:42 | |
and these kami are all around us. | 0:05:42 | 0:05:44 | |
They live in the sun and the wind... | 0:05:52 | 0:05:55 | |
in trees and animals... | 0:05:55 | 0:05:58 | |
and even in rocks and boulders. | 0:05:58 | 0:06:01 | |
For Shinto, the world is endlessly animated by the divine... | 0:06:01 | 0:06:06 | |
..and here, deep in the forest, is a shrine. | 0:06:08 | 0:06:11 | |
There is a simple aesthetic. | 0:06:13 | 0:06:16 | |
Zigzags of paper hang from rope made of rice straw. | 0:06:16 | 0:06:19 | |
It's something you see all over Japan... | 0:06:22 | 0:06:24 | |
..but, beyond these components, Shinto doesn't produce much art. | 0:06:28 | 0:06:31 | |
The focus is on nature itself... | 0:06:33 | 0:06:36 | |
..although some natural phenomena get more attention than others. | 0:06:41 | 0:06:46 | |
This is Nachi Falls. | 0:06:51 | 0:06:53 | |
It's one of the tallest waterfalls in Japan, | 0:07:01 | 0:07:04 | |
and, of course, it boasts its very own kami. | 0:07:04 | 0:07:07 | |
MAN CHANTS | 0:07:11 | 0:07:13 | |
Every morning, a Shinto priest makes an offering | 0:07:19 | 0:07:22 | |
to the spirit of the waterfall. | 0:07:22 | 0:07:24 | |
Sake and rice are placed on a table alongside a golden wand. | 0:07:26 | 0:07:31 | |
CHANTING CONTINUES | 0:07:31 | 0:07:33 | |
Ritual is at the heart of Shintoism. | 0:07:40 | 0:07:43 | |
Kami can be good and bad, just like humans, | 0:07:43 | 0:07:45 | |
and rituals are performed to maintain good relationships | 0:07:45 | 0:07:49 | |
between the human world and the kami world. | 0:07:49 | 0:07:52 | |
In so much of the world, religion is about gods and saints and prophets - | 0:07:56 | 0:08:02 | |
but here in Nachi, and in countless other parts of Japan, | 0:08:02 | 0:08:06 | |
nature itself is being venerated, | 0:08:06 | 0:08:09 | |
and as I look up at this waterfall, 133 metres high, I can see why. | 0:08:09 | 0:08:16 | |
But even though Shinto doesn't have a strong tradition | 0:08:18 | 0:08:21 | |
of religious imagery, | 0:08:21 | 0:08:22 | |
I believe its influence can be felt | 0:08:22 | 0:08:24 | |
right through the history of Japanese art - | 0:08:24 | 0:08:28 | |
even in the most unlikely places. | 0:08:28 | 0:08:30 | |
These are netsuke. | 0:08:36 | 0:08:38 | |
They were used as toggles on the end of purse strings | 0:08:38 | 0:08:41 | |
as part of traditional Japanese dress. | 0:08:41 | 0:08:44 | |
They depicted all sorts of things... | 0:08:44 | 0:08:46 | |
..and though just accessories for clothing, | 0:08:49 | 0:08:51 | |
they are now revered as breathtaking miniature sculptures... | 0:08:51 | 0:08:55 | |
..and this is a particularly special one. | 0:08:59 | 0:09:01 | |
So, this bizarre little masterpiece was made a few hundred years ago, | 0:09:05 | 0:09:09 | |
probably by an artist called Harumitsu, who was based in Ise, | 0:09:09 | 0:09:13 | |
one of the great Shinto centres of Japan, | 0:09:13 | 0:09:16 | |
and it depicts a pretty much life-size cicada | 0:09:16 | 0:09:20 | |
that's beautifully carved out of boxwood. | 0:09:20 | 0:09:23 | |
Every single detail is anatomically correct. | 0:09:23 | 0:09:26 | |
So we have the compound eyes | 0:09:26 | 0:09:27 | |
at the top, | 0:09:27 | 0:09:28 | |
the beautiful tracery of the veined wings, | 0:09:28 | 0:09:31 | |
and this, this is the thorax and abdomen. | 0:09:31 | 0:09:33 | |
Those contain the muscles that produce the famous cicada chirp - | 0:09:33 | 0:09:38 | |
and if I turned it over onto the other side, | 0:09:38 | 0:09:40 | |
which I'm really quite nervous about doing, because I'm extremely clumsy, | 0:09:40 | 0:09:44 | |
we will see there is even more detail on the underside. | 0:09:44 | 0:09:48 | |
And you can see that the cicada is even grasping a little branch. | 0:09:48 | 0:09:53 | |
Absolutely beautiful. | 0:09:53 | 0:09:55 | |
Cicadas have a really important place in Japanese culture. | 0:10:00 | 0:10:04 | |
They are seen as symbolic of the summer, when they come out, | 0:10:04 | 0:10:07 | |
and this object was probably worn during the summer months. | 0:10:07 | 0:10:10 | |
But they're also seen as strangely melancholy creatures. | 0:10:10 | 0:10:14 | |
There's that famous haiku. | 0:10:15 | 0:10:16 | |
"Nothing in the cry of cicadas suggests they are about to die" - | 0:10:16 | 0:10:20 | |
but it's not only cicadas. | 0:10:20 | 0:10:22 | |
Japanese literature is filled with references to all kinds of insects, | 0:10:22 | 0:10:26 | |
to caterpillars and beetles and fireflies and dragonflies, | 0:10:26 | 0:10:31 | |
and indeed, even today, many Japanese people | 0:10:31 | 0:10:33 | |
have insects as pets, | 0:10:33 | 0:10:34 | |
and it's even possible to visit beetle petting zoos. | 0:10:34 | 0:10:37 | |
Now, this all might sound rather odd, | 0:10:45 | 0:10:46 | |
but actually, it's deeply revealing, | 0:10:46 | 0:10:48 | |
because in Japan, nothing in nature is too small to be important. | 0:10:48 | 0:10:52 | |
Everything is deserving of our respect, | 0:10:52 | 0:10:53 | |
everything is deserving of our attention, | 0:10:53 | 0:10:56 | |
even an intensely irritating insect like this one - | 0:10:56 | 0:11:00 | |
and that, I'm sure, is partly down to Shinto. | 0:11:00 | 0:11:03 | |
But Shinto isn't the only religion in Japan | 0:11:16 | 0:11:19 | |
with a special relationship to nature. | 0:11:19 | 0:11:22 | |
In Japan, there are numerous different schools and sects | 0:12:04 | 0:12:08 | |
of Buddhism, but one kind particularly intrigues me, | 0:12:08 | 0:12:12 | |
because it helped produce | 0:12:12 | 0:12:13 | |
some of the world's most sophisticated landscape art forms. | 0:12:13 | 0:12:18 | |
It is known by the Japanese as Zen. | 0:12:18 | 0:12:21 | |
BELL RINGS | 0:12:24 | 0:12:25 | |
Zen doesn't rely on scriptures or dogma | 0:12:30 | 0:12:32 | |
but instead tries to promote an intuitive understanding of the world | 0:12:32 | 0:12:36 | |
through meditation and repeated practical exercises. | 0:12:36 | 0:12:40 | |
Zen monks used a number of methods | 0:13:48 | 0:13:50 | |
to discipline their minds and their bodies and to help with meditation, | 0:13:50 | 0:13:54 | |
and one of them, one of these methods, was painting. | 0:13:54 | 0:13:58 | |
Japanese monks started to make brush paintings | 0:13:58 | 0:14:01 | |
in black ink on paper and silk. | 0:14:01 | 0:14:04 | |
Now, this technique had been developed by the Chinese | 0:14:04 | 0:14:07 | |
centuries earlier, | 0:14:07 | 0:14:08 | |
but the Japanese were quick learners. | 0:14:08 | 0:14:11 | |
And perhaps the greatest of these Japanese ink wash painters | 0:14:14 | 0:14:18 | |
was a man called Sesshu Toyo. | 0:14:18 | 0:14:20 | |
Sesshu was born in western Japan in 1420. | 0:14:24 | 0:14:28 | |
At the age of 11, he enrolled in a Zen temple, | 0:14:28 | 0:14:31 | |
where he trained to be a priest - | 0:14:31 | 0:14:33 | |
but, according to one anecdote, | 0:14:33 | 0:14:35 | |
Sesshu showed little affinity for Zen discipline. | 0:14:35 | 0:14:38 | |
One day, Sesshu was so badly behaved | 0:14:40 | 0:14:43 | |
that his masters got hold of some rope | 0:14:43 | 0:14:46 | |
and tied him to a pole as a punishment. | 0:14:46 | 0:14:49 | |
Now, after several hours of this, | 0:14:49 | 0:14:50 | |
Sesshu became so distressed that he started to cry, | 0:14:50 | 0:14:53 | |
and his tears gradually formed a puddle at his feet - | 0:14:53 | 0:14:57 | |
but then something remarkable happened. | 0:14:57 | 0:15:00 | |
Using his toe as a brush, | 0:15:00 | 0:15:02 | |
Sesshu painted the outline of a rat into his tears, | 0:15:02 | 0:15:06 | |
and then the rat came to life, | 0:15:06 | 0:15:09 | |
gnawed through the rope and set Sesshu free. | 0:15:09 | 0:15:12 | |
In the late 1460s, Sesshu travelled to China, | 0:15:17 | 0:15:20 | |
and there he learned the art of ink wash painting | 0:15:20 | 0:15:23 | |
from its native masters. | 0:15:23 | 0:15:25 | |
He went on to become one of Japan's greatest painters, | 0:15:27 | 0:15:30 | |
and I've come to the Tokyo National Museum to see his masterpiece, | 0:15:30 | 0:15:35 | |
a painting I've wanted to see for many years... | 0:15:35 | 0:15:39 | |
and we are the first film crew to ever be granted access to it | 0:15:39 | 0:15:42 | |
when it's not on display. | 0:15:42 | 0:15:44 | |
This is the splashed ink landscape. | 0:15:47 | 0:15:51 | |
Sesshu painted it in 1495 when he was in his mid-70s, | 0:15:51 | 0:15:56 | |
and though it might only have taken a few minutes to make, | 0:15:56 | 0:15:59 | |
it is the result of a lifetime's experience and skill. | 0:15:59 | 0:16:03 | |
Now, I'll be honest with you. At first, it doesn't look like much. | 0:16:05 | 0:16:07 | |
It just looks like some spatters on a page - | 0:16:07 | 0:16:10 | |
but gradually, an image, a landscape, begins to appear. | 0:16:10 | 0:16:16 | |
In the foreground, | 0:16:21 | 0:16:22 | |
a craggy outcrop of rock covered by trees and bushes... | 0:16:22 | 0:16:26 | |
..and in the background, | 0:16:28 | 0:16:29 | |
these towering mountains that are half hidden by mists | 0:16:29 | 0:16:33 | |
or perhaps an incoming rain shower... | 0:16:33 | 0:16:36 | |
..but as you look at this picture longer, you begin to see yet more - | 0:16:38 | 0:16:42 | |
so, down there, that is a little wooden building. | 0:16:42 | 0:16:46 | |
You can see the triangular roof. | 0:16:46 | 0:16:48 | |
There's a fence around its perimeter - | 0:16:48 | 0:16:50 | |
and that, believe it or not, is a wine tavern, | 0:16:50 | 0:16:53 | |
and we know that because the wine tavern banner | 0:16:53 | 0:16:56 | |
is hanging out the front of it... | 0:16:56 | 0:16:57 | |
..but there's more even than that, because below that wine tavern, | 0:16:59 | 0:17:02 | |
you can see two near-horizontal strokes, | 0:17:02 | 0:17:05 | |
and those represent the ripples on a lake... | 0:17:05 | 0:17:08 | |
..and to the right, | 0:17:10 | 0:17:11 | |
two people are rowing a boat across it. | 0:17:11 | 0:17:14 | |
You know, I find this painting absolutely breathtaking, | 0:17:17 | 0:17:20 | |
and what is so exciting about it | 0:17:20 | 0:17:22 | |
is the way it unfolds in front of your eyes... | 0:17:22 | 0:17:25 | |
..the way that, by looking at it, you bring it to life... | 0:17:28 | 0:17:30 | |
..and what I admire so much about it | 0:17:34 | 0:17:36 | |
is how he's achieved so much with such limited resources. | 0:17:36 | 0:17:39 | |
Look at the varieties of blacks, | 0:17:39 | 0:17:41 | |
these deep, dark, inky blacks | 0:17:41 | 0:17:43 | |
in the foreground, | 0:17:43 | 0:17:44 | |
and yet, in the background, | 0:17:44 | 0:17:45 | |
these blacks that are so pale | 0:17:45 | 0:17:46 | |
they are almost white... | 0:17:46 | 0:17:48 | |
and look at the variety of strokes, | 0:17:48 | 0:17:50 | |
the wide brushstrokes, the narrow brushstrokes, | 0:17:50 | 0:17:53 | |
the wet, the dry, | 0:17:53 | 0:17:54 | |
the washes, the scratches, | 0:17:54 | 0:17:55 | |
all this different variety of marks | 0:17:55 | 0:17:58 | |
combined and mobilised to create this landscape... | 0:17:58 | 0:18:01 | |
..and you know the thing I can't get off my mind? | 0:18:10 | 0:18:12 | |
This was made in 1495. | 0:18:12 | 0:18:15 | |
1495! | 0:18:15 | 0:18:17 | |
Back in Europe, we had the Renaissance going on, | 0:18:17 | 0:18:19 | |
and there were no images as audacious as this one. | 0:18:19 | 0:18:22 | |
You know, it would take 300 years, 400 years, | 0:18:22 | 0:18:26 | |
for the watercolours of Turner and Cezanne, | 0:18:26 | 0:18:28 | |
before any Western artist made anything as abstract as this. | 0:18:28 | 0:18:33 | |
Sesshu had helped create an intoxicating aesthetic, | 0:18:37 | 0:18:40 | |
one that preferred ambiguity to clarity, | 0:18:40 | 0:18:43 | |
absence to presence, | 0:18:43 | 0:18:45 | |
and the hazy mysteries of nature. | 0:18:45 | 0:18:47 | |
This quality is evident in the work of Sesshu's countless followers. | 0:18:50 | 0:18:54 | |
This is Hasegawa Tohaku's pine trees in the mist, | 0:18:56 | 0:19:00 | |
painted onto a folding screen about 100 years after Sesshu's landscape. | 0:19:00 | 0:19:06 | |
The trees drift in and out of the mists. | 0:19:07 | 0:19:10 | |
One can almost taste the cold, wet air. | 0:19:12 | 0:19:16 | |
Empty space is as important as the landscape it surrounds... | 0:19:22 | 0:19:27 | |
..and this emptiness is surely a visual metaphor | 0:19:34 | 0:19:37 | |
for the silences of Zen meditation. | 0:19:37 | 0:19:40 | |
Zen Buddhism didn't simply inspire the Japanese | 0:19:49 | 0:19:52 | |
to depict the natural world, | 0:19:52 | 0:19:54 | |
it also encourage them to recreate it. | 0:19:54 | 0:19:57 | |
While Sesshu and his colleagues pioneered landscape painting, | 0:19:57 | 0:20:00 | |
other monks turned to horticulture. | 0:20:00 | 0:20:03 | |
I've come to the northern edge of Kyoto | 0:20:05 | 0:20:08 | |
to see one of Japan's greatest gardens. | 0:20:08 | 0:20:11 | |
Ryoan-ji might be the most written-about garden in the world, | 0:20:13 | 0:20:16 | |
but it's also one of the least understood. | 0:20:16 | 0:20:19 | |
We don't know who designed it. We don't know who built it. | 0:20:19 | 0:20:22 | |
We don't know when it was made - | 0:20:22 | 0:20:24 | |
and we certainly don't know what it means. | 0:20:24 | 0:20:26 | |
I've come early in the morning to beat the crowds... | 0:20:34 | 0:20:37 | |
but I'm not allowed to step beyond the veranda. | 0:20:40 | 0:20:42 | |
This isn't a garden for walking in. | 0:20:45 | 0:20:47 | |
The ground is covered in white Shirakawa gravel | 0:20:49 | 0:20:51 | |
that's carefully raked every morning... | 0:20:51 | 0:20:54 | |
..and emerging from the gravel are 15 craggy stones, | 0:20:56 | 0:21:00 | |
surrounded by moss, | 0:21:00 | 0:21:02 | |
arranged almost randomly... | 0:21:02 | 0:21:05 | |
but there's nothing random about them... | 0:21:05 | 0:21:06 | |
..because 15 is an important number in Zen. | 0:21:08 | 0:21:12 | |
It symbolises completeness, since the entire Buddhist world | 0:21:12 | 0:21:16 | |
contains seven continents and eight oceans... | 0:21:16 | 0:21:19 | |
..but from where I'm sitting... | 0:21:21 | 0:21:23 | |
..you can't see 15 stones. You can only see 14. | 0:21:24 | 0:21:28 | |
In fact, it doesn't matter where you go, | 0:21:30 | 0:21:32 | |
you can never see all 15 stones at once, | 0:21:32 | 0:21:36 | |
and this is thought to be a reminder of human imperfection. | 0:21:36 | 0:21:40 | |
One mind can never understand everything. | 0:21:40 | 0:21:43 | |
As time passes, something remarkable happens. | 0:21:52 | 0:21:55 | |
The gaps between the stones come to life. | 0:21:57 | 0:21:59 | |
The emptiness fills up... | 0:21:59 | 0:22:01 | |
..and suddenly this modest courtyard | 0:22:02 | 0:22:05 | |
becomes a vast panorama of the world. | 0:22:05 | 0:22:07 | |
One moment the stones are moss-covered islands | 0:22:11 | 0:22:13 | |
in a rippling, foaming ocean... | 0:22:13 | 0:22:16 | |
..the next, they're mountaintops seen from above the clouds. | 0:22:19 | 0:22:22 | |
And then, just like that, | 0:22:23 | 0:22:26 | |
they're nothing more than a group of rocks in some gravel. | 0:22:26 | 0:22:29 | |
People have been trying to decipher | 0:22:32 | 0:22:34 | |
the meaning of this garden for years, | 0:22:34 | 0:22:37 | |
but I think its meaning, if it has any meaning, | 0:22:37 | 0:22:40 | |
ultimately comes from within us, | 0:22:40 | 0:22:43 | |
because, like Sesshu's paintings and like so much Japanese culture, | 0:22:43 | 0:22:47 | |
this garden is an almost blank canvas, | 0:22:47 | 0:22:50 | |
a place that enables the mind to wander in any direction it pleases. | 0:22:50 | 0:22:55 | |
The Zen preference for uncertainty and suggestiveness | 0:23:44 | 0:23:48 | |
might still seem alien | 0:23:48 | 0:23:49 | |
to us fact-loving, empirical, positivistic Westerners, | 0:23:49 | 0:23:54 | |
but it became a crucial part of Japanese culture - | 0:23:54 | 0:23:58 | |
and you can't understand Japanese culture | 0:23:58 | 0:24:00 | |
until you begin to embrace the beauty of mystery. | 0:24:00 | 0:24:04 | |
I've come 300 miles north of Kyoto to a suburb of Tokyo called Omiya. | 0:24:19 | 0:24:25 | |
It's an unremarkable place and seems a world away | 0:24:26 | 0:24:29 | |
from the wildernesses that inspired Shinto priests and Zen monks... | 0:24:29 | 0:24:34 | |
..but this place happens to be the nation's epicentre | 0:24:36 | 0:24:39 | |
of another art form that combines nature and culture. | 0:24:39 | 0:24:43 | |
These, of course, are bonsai. | 0:24:47 | 0:24:50 | |
Like many Japanese artforms, bonsai emerged in China. | 0:24:50 | 0:24:54 | |
It came to Japan perhaps as early as the sixth century, | 0:24:54 | 0:24:57 | |
and it continues to be practised today. | 0:24:57 | 0:25:00 | |
Kaori Yamada is unusual. | 0:25:03 | 0:25:05 | |
Most bonsai artists are men... | 0:25:05 | 0:25:07 | |
..but Kaori is the fifth generation of her family to keep bonsai, | 0:25:11 | 0:25:15 | |
and many of them are extremely old. | 0:25:15 | 0:25:18 | |
It's a beautiful tree... | 0:25:21 | 0:25:22 | |
..and how old do you think it is? | 0:25:24 | 0:25:25 | |
-We think over 300 years. -Over 300 years old. | 0:25:27 | 0:25:31 | |
In the West, we might think of bonsai | 0:25:35 | 0:25:37 | |
as little more than pot plants, | 0:25:37 | 0:25:39 | |
but in Japan, it is a major imaginative endeavour. | 0:25:39 | 0:25:43 | |
Just like Sesshu and the creators of Zen gardens, | 0:25:43 | 0:25:47 | |
the bonsai artist is a maker of worlds. | 0:25:47 | 0:25:51 | |
So, what can bonsai tell us about Japanese attitudes to nature? | 0:26:34 | 0:26:39 | |
Just around the corner from Kaori Yamada's nursery | 0:27:33 | 0:27:37 | |
is Omiya's bonsai museum. | 0:27:37 | 0:27:39 | |
It's like an exclusive art gallery, | 0:27:40 | 0:27:43 | |
but in the place of paintings and sculptures there are trees... | 0:27:43 | 0:27:47 | |
..and I've come to see one in particular. | 0:27:51 | 0:27:54 | |
This magnificent bonsai is estimated to be about 500 years old. | 0:27:58 | 0:28:04 | |
It's a Goyomatsu tree, | 0:28:04 | 0:28:06 | |
a Japanese five-needle pine that only grows in Japan and Korea, | 0:28:06 | 0:28:10 | |
and it's one of the most popular species used | 0:28:10 | 0:28:13 | |
in the creation of bonsai - | 0:28:13 | 0:28:14 | |
and this creation is so remarkable that it's even been given a name. | 0:28:14 | 0:28:19 | |
It's called Uzushio, which means "whirlpool" in Japanese - | 0:28:19 | 0:28:24 | |
and you can see why. | 0:28:24 | 0:28:25 | |
The whole tree spirals with this remarkable, muscular energy. | 0:28:25 | 0:28:30 | |
It was actually designed to resemble a wave or a tsunami | 0:28:30 | 0:28:33 | |
crashing down on the shore. | 0:28:33 | 0:28:35 | |
The wood spirals with the currents and torrents of water, | 0:28:35 | 0:28:40 | |
and the needles are like the fingers of froth of a wave | 0:28:40 | 0:28:43 | |
as it breaks on the shore. | 0:28:43 | 0:28:45 | |
So, though it's small, although it's potted, | 0:28:46 | 0:28:49 | |
this is about the untamability of nature. | 0:28:49 | 0:28:53 | |
You'll also notice there's a great deal of dead wood on it. | 0:28:54 | 0:28:58 | |
The whole front has become this white, | 0:28:58 | 0:29:01 | |
ossified piece of driftwood | 0:29:01 | 0:29:02 | |
that spirals like an S throughout the tree, | 0:29:02 | 0:29:05 | |
and there are dead branches that have broken off. | 0:29:05 | 0:29:08 | |
Now, this isn't an accident. | 0:29:08 | 0:29:10 | |
This was cultivated, this was styled, | 0:29:10 | 0:29:12 | |
it was created, | 0:29:12 | 0:29:13 | |
and the purpose was to make this tree look aged and weathered, | 0:29:13 | 0:29:17 | |
to make it look like it had lived a long, hard life, | 0:29:17 | 0:29:19 | |
out exposed on a clifftop, | 0:29:19 | 0:29:21 | |
mutilated by the winds and the rain and the lightning... | 0:29:21 | 0:29:24 | |
..and I'm reminded, this piece is about the same age | 0:29:26 | 0:29:30 | |
as Michelangelo's David - | 0:29:30 | 0:29:32 | |
both of them about 500 years old, | 0:29:32 | 0:29:35 | |
and this, too, is a sculpture - | 0:29:35 | 0:29:38 | |
and, indeed, seeing it in this location, in a museum setting, | 0:29:38 | 0:29:41 | |
it has been elevated to the status of art - | 0:29:41 | 0:29:44 | |
but this is a living sculpture. | 0:29:44 | 0:29:47 | |
It hasn't been created once, it has been created and recreated | 0:29:47 | 0:29:51 | |
and reshaped and cultivated and nourished | 0:29:51 | 0:29:53 | |
and kept alive for generations... | 0:29:53 | 0:29:56 | |
..and, you know, there's a paradox at the heart of this, | 0:29:58 | 0:30:01 | |
because on the one hand, it's deeply contrived, deeply created, | 0:30:01 | 0:30:05 | |
deeply manufactured, | 0:30:05 | 0:30:06 | |
but it also attempts to look like it's the creation | 0:30:06 | 0:30:10 | |
of chance and nature. | 0:30:10 | 0:30:12 | |
Bonsai is ultimately about persistence in nature and culture... | 0:30:18 | 0:30:24 | |
but the Japanese also find beauty in something far more fleeting. | 0:30:24 | 0:30:28 | |
This is the flower of the Prunus serrulata | 0:30:37 | 0:30:41 | |
or, as it's more commonly known, cherry blossom. | 0:30:41 | 0:30:44 | |
The Japanese have revered the life cycle | 0:30:45 | 0:30:48 | |
of this delicately petalled tree flower | 0:30:48 | 0:30:50 | |
for more than a thousand years... | 0:30:50 | 0:30:52 | |
..and in March and April every year, | 0:30:55 | 0:30:57 | |
they gather beneath it to party and picnic. | 0:30:57 | 0:31:00 | |
This celebration, known as Hanami, | 0:31:02 | 0:31:04 | |
has become a vast national industry, | 0:31:04 | 0:31:07 | |
and millions of tourists now travel to Japan to join in. | 0:31:07 | 0:31:11 | |
No other country does anything quite like this... | 0:31:13 | 0:31:16 | |
..but the merriment disguises a melancholy. | 0:31:18 | 0:31:21 | |
The Japanese were fascinated with blossom | 0:31:24 | 0:31:26 | |
because they found it unbearably poignant. | 0:31:26 | 0:31:29 | |
After all, here was this beautiful little organism | 0:31:29 | 0:31:32 | |
that emerged, grew and dazzled | 0:31:32 | 0:31:34 | |
and then, within little more than a week, | 0:31:34 | 0:31:37 | |
fell to the ground and died. | 0:31:37 | 0:31:39 | |
For the Japanese, it was, of course, a fact of nature, | 0:31:39 | 0:31:42 | |
but it was also a lesson about the human condition, | 0:31:42 | 0:31:45 | |
a reminder that our lives also are painfully brief. | 0:31:45 | 0:31:49 | |
In Japan, blossom is celebrated not in spite of its transience | 0:31:51 | 0:31:55 | |
but because of it. It is beautiful precisely because it doesn't last... | 0:31:55 | 0:32:00 | |
..but the preoccupation with cherry blossom | 0:32:02 | 0:32:05 | |
was part of a broader set of interests. | 0:32:05 | 0:32:07 | |
Japanese culture celebrates all of the seasons, | 0:32:07 | 0:32:10 | |
not simply the spring... | 0:32:10 | 0:32:12 | |
..and so, in Japanese art, alongside the paintings of cherry blossoms, | 0:32:14 | 0:32:18 | |
there are also pictures of verdant summer foliage... | 0:32:18 | 0:32:21 | |
..vermillion maple leaves of the autumn... | 0:32:22 | 0:32:24 | |
..and the deep snows of winter. | 0:32:26 | 0:32:28 | |
I've often wondered why the Japanese are so preoccupied with the seasons, | 0:32:32 | 0:32:37 | |
and I think there are two reasons. | 0:32:37 | 0:32:39 | |
First, the seasons are really explicit here. | 0:32:39 | 0:32:42 | |
The winters are bitterly cold and dry, the summers are hot and wet, | 0:32:42 | 0:32:47 | |
and in the spring and the autumn, | 0:32:47 | 0:32:49 | |
the foliage just explodes into these unbelievable colours - | 0:32:49 | 0:32:53 | |
but I think there's another reason, as well. | 0:32:53 | 0:32:55 | |
Written language came very late to Japan, | 0:32:55 | 0:32:58 | |
and so the cycle of the seasons | 0:32:58 | 0:33:00 | |
became a really important tool for measuring time - | 0:33:00 | 0:33:03 | |
not just natural time, but human time, as well... | 0:33:03 | 0:33:06 | |
..and of all these pictures of Japanese seasonal surprises, | 0:33:08 | 0:33:13 | |
one is without doubt the most famous. | 0:33:13 | 0:33:15 | |
It is housed in the Nezu Museum in Tokyo. | 0:33:17 | 0:33:20 | |
This is Ogata Korin's Irises, | 0:33:37 | 0:33:41 | |
a pair of six panelled screens dating back to 1710. | 0:33:41 | 0:33:45 | |
Irises begin to bloom across Japan in May, | 0:33:51 | 0:33:54 | |
when spring explodes into summer, | 0:33:54 | 0:33:57 | |
and in this utterly irresistible painting, | 0:33:57 | 0:34:01 | |
Korin captures the excitement | 0:34:01 | 0:34:03 | |
of those first really hot days of the year. | 0:34:03 | 0:34:06 | |
The colours are so vivid and intense. | 0:34:06 | 0:34:09 | |
The greens look like they were painted only a few minutes ago | 0:34:09 | 0:34:13 | |
and haven't even had time to dry yet. | 0:34:13 | 0:34:16 | |
The petals are painted from the most expensive blue pigment | 0:34:16 | 0:34:20 | |
in the business, and the background, made from gold foil, | 0:34:20 | 0:34:24 | |
dazzles like sunlight reflecting off the water. | 0:34:24 | 0:34:27 | |
This painting was actually inspired by a tenth-century poem | 0:34:29 | 0:34:33 | |
that told the story of a group of travellers | 0:34:33 | 0:34:35 | |
who stopped for lunch at a river bank | 0:34:35 | 0:34:37 | |
that was ablaze with irises. | 0:34:37 | 0:34:40 | |
The travellers were reminded of a similar spot back at home | 0:34:40 | 0:34:44 | |
and became all nostalgic. | 0:34:44 | 0:34:46 | |
Now, this painting is also about nostalgia - | 0:34:46 | 0:34:49 | |
it's about longing for things that have gone, | 0:34:49 | 0:34:52 | |
and you can just imagine, 300 years ago, | 0:34:52 | 0:34:54 | |
the original owners of this painting | 0:34:54 | 0:34:57 | |
looking at it on a cold winter's night and feeling all warm inside. | 0:34:57 | 0:35:02 | |
What I admire so much about this painting is its simplicity. | 0:35:04 | 0:35:08 | |
Korin has distilled his subject to its fundamental ingredients | 0:35:08 | 0:35:12 | |
and then repeated them rhythmically, | 0:35:12 | 0:35:15 | |
almost as though it's music - | 0:35:15 | 0:35:17 | |
and there is a little secret to how he's achieved that. | 0:35:17 | 0:35:20 | |
If you actually look very closely at this painting, | 0:35:20 | 0:35:23 | |
you begin to see that it's actually stencilled. | 0:35:23 | 0:35:26 | |
This iris over here is identical to that one over there. | 0:35:26 | 0:35:30 | |
This pattern down here is absolutely identical | 0:35:30 | 0:35:33 | |
to that pattern over there. | 0:35:33 | 0:35:34 | |
What an image. | 0:35:43 | 0:35:44 | |
I know it's famous, but it really deserves to be. | 0:35:44 | 0:35:48 | |
I challenge anyone to stand in front of this picture | 0:35:48 | 0:35:52 | |
and not become just a little bit happier. | 0:35:52 | 0:35:55 | |
But the Japanese don't only celebrate the small and ephemeral. | 0:35:57 | 0:36:01 | |
In fact, their most famous natural symbol is anything but. | 0:36:01 | 0:36:05 | |
3,776 metres high, Mount Fuji is the tallest mountain in Japan - | 0:36:28 | 0:36:35 | |
a dormant volcano that could erupt at any moment. | 0:36:35 | 0:36:39 | |
Fuji has been revered here since prehistoric times, | 0:36:41 | 0:36:44 | |
venerated by Shinto and Buddhism alike. | 0:36:44 | 0:36:47 | |
The Japanese have been rhapsodising about Mount Fuji for centuries, | 0:36:50 | 0:36:54 | |
and it has inspired vast quantities of poetry. | 0:36:54 | 0:36:57 | |
One winter in the 1680s, | 0:36:58 | 0:37:00 | |
the father of haiku, Basho, made a journey to Mount Fuji, | 0:37:00 | 0:37:04 | |
but the weather was so bad that the mountain was invisible. | 0:37:04 | 0:37:08 | |
Many people would have been annoyed, but not Basho. | 0:37:08 | 0:37:11 | |
This is what he wrote. | 0:37:11 | 0:37:13 | |
"In the misty rain, Mount Fuji is veiled all day." | 0:37:13 | 0:37:17 | |
How intriguing! | 0:37:17 | 0:37:18 | |
For Basho, like his Zen predecessors, | 0:37:22 | 0:37:25 | |
mist and mystery was exciting. | 0:37:25 | 0:37:28 | |
After all, who wants an answer when you can have a question? | 0:37:30 | 0:37:33 | |
Yet Mount Fuji's global fame | 0:37:35 | 0:37:37 | |
is surely a result of something less ambiguous. | 0:37:37 | 0:37:40 | |
Mount Fuji is almost ludicrously perfect, | 0:37:41 | 0:37:45 | |
even on a drab and overcast day like today. | 0:37:45 | 0:37:48 | |
Triangular, snow-capped, nearly symmetrical, | 0:37:48 | 0:37:52 | |
this is a mountain almost as imagined by a child - | 0:37:52 | 0:37:55 | |
and Mount Fuji's form has been crucial to its fame. | 0:37:55 | 0:37:59 | |
Like the pyramids, like the Eiffel Tower, | 0:37:59 | 0:38:01 | |
its silhouette alone has become a metonym for an entire culture. | 0:38:01 | 0:38:06 | |
That flawless shape inevitably attracted artists. | 0:38:08 | 0:38:12 | |
They have been depicting Mount Fuji since at least the 11th century. | 0:38:12 | 0:38:17 | |
This ink painting, once thought to be by Sesshu, | 0:38:17 | 0:38:20 | |
shows the mountain shrouded in that mandatory mist | 0:38:20 | 0:38:23 | |
and towering over a wondrous landscape... | 0:38:23 | 0:38:25 | |
..but one artist immortalised it like no other. | 0:38:27 | 0:38:30 | |
Internationally, he is the most famous figure | 0:38:30 | 0:38:33 | |
in all of Japanese art - | 0:38:33 | 0:38:35 | |
almost as famous as Fuji itself. | 0:38:35 | 0:38:38 | |
Hokusai was born not far from Mount Fuji in 1760, | 0:38:51 | 0:38:57 | |
just a few years after its last eruption, | 0:38:57 | 0:39:00 | |
and he remained obsessed with the volcano throughout his life. | 0:39:00 | 0:39:04 | |
He lived in Edo, now Tokyo, | 0:39:04 | 0:39:07 | |
which was already one of the biggest cities in the world. | 0:39:07 | 0:39:10 | |
Hokusai's success came slowly. | 0:39:13 | 0:39:15 | |
He's best known for his woodcut prints, | 0:39:15 | 0:39:17 | |
but throughout his life he loved to experiment. | 0:39:17 | 0:39:21 | |
He made brush paintings of people and plants, | 0:39:21 | 0:39:24 | |
and he also made erotica. | 0:39:24 | 0:39:26 | |
The diversity of his output was breathtaking - | 0:39:29 | 0:39:32 | |
but for those who knew him, | 0:39:32 | 0:39:34 | |
this wasn't surprising at all. | 0:39:34 | 0:39:37 | |
Hokusai, I think it's safe to say, was a restless soul. | 0:39:41 | 0:39:46 | |
He changed his name more than 20 times. | 0:39:46 | 0:39:49 | |
He moved house 93 times - | 0:39:49 | 0:39:51 | |
but the one unshakeable thing in his life was his obsession with art. | 0:39:51 | 0:39:57 | |
Hokusai was passionately, maniacally, | 0:39:57 | 0:40:00 | |
pathologically obsessed with his craft | 0:40:00 | 0:40:02 | |
and was relentlessly determined to get better at it. | 0:40:02 | 0:40:06 | |
Hokusai, indeed, made his finest work late in life, | 0:40:09 | 0:40:13 | |
and the best of it was arguably a series of prints about Mount Fuji. | 0:40:13 | 0:40:17 | |
Between 1830 and 1833, when he was in his early seventies, | 0:40:19 | 0:40:24 | |
Hokusai produced his masterpiece, Thirty-Six Views Of Mount Fuji, | 0:40:24 | 0:40:29 | |
initially three dozen woodcuts | 0:40:29 | 0:40:31 | |
printed in an array of vivid colours. | 0:40:31 | 0:40:34 | |
They depict the sacred mountain from every imaginable viewpoint, | 0:40:35 | 0:40:40 | |
from towns, sea and sky, | 0:40:40 | 0:40:43 | |
from close up and vast distances... | 0:40:43 | 0:40:45 | |
..in all seasons and weather conditions... | 0:40:46 | 0:40:49 | |
..and ever surrounded by life in its endless abundance. | 0:40:50 | 0:40:53 | |
This is number 33 in the series, | 0:40:57 | 0:40:59 | |
from the Mishima Pass in Kai province, | 0:40:59 | 0:41:02 | |
just to the north-west of the volcano, | 0:41:02 | 0:41:04 | |
and I find this such a heart-warming image | 0:41:04 | 0:41:07 | |
that refers back to the old Shinto worship of trees. | 0:41:07 | 0:41:11 | |
This group of travellers down here, they are on a journey, | 0:41:11 | 0:41:14 | |
and they have stumbled on this remarkable cedar tree, | 0:41:14 | 0:41:17 | |
a tree so big it doesn't even fit into Hokusai's picture, | 0:41:17 | 0:41:20 | |
and, quite delightfully, | 0:41:20 | 0:41:21 | |
they are measuring its circumference | 0:41:21 | 0:41:24 | |
by linking arms around it - | 0:41:24 | 0:41:25 | |
but, of course, they, and even the tree, are dwarfed | 0:41:25 | 0:41:28 | |
by the giant mountain behind them, | 0:41:28 | 0:41:30 | |
which is almost being tickled by the clouds. | 0:41:30 | 0:41:34 | |
Now, we've all seen this image before. | 0:41:40 | 0:41:42 | |
It's actually one of the most famous pictures in all of art - | 0:41:42 | 0:41:46 | |
but, for that very reason, | 0:41:46 | 0:41:48 | |
we haven't always looked at it properly. | 0:41:48 | 0:41:50 | |
People are so taken with this extraordinary wave | 0:41:50 | 0:41:53 | |
that they don't always notice the rest of the picture. | 0:41:53 | 0:41:57 | |
They don't notice, for instance, | 0:41:57 | 0:41:58 | |
that there are in fact more than 20 people depicted here, | 0:41:58 | 0:42:02 | |
22 shaven-headed fishermen | 0:42:02 | 0:42:04 | |
who are heading home after a long shift on the water | 0:42:04 | 0:42:07 | |
and have run into a spot of bother - | 0:42:07 | 0:42:10 | |
and you can see them grabbing hold of their skiffs | 0:42:10 | 0:42:13 | |
as they're tossed around on the surf. | 0:42:13 | 0:42:15 | |
Are they going to make it? | 0:42:15 | 0:42:17 | |
Well, I think they probably are - | 0:42:17 | 0:42:18 | |
because, in the distance, the sacred mountain, | 0:42:18 | 0:42:21 | |
disguised as another wave, | 0:42:21 | 0:42:22 | |
is watching on. | 0:42:22 | 0:42:24 | |
I don't really think we can understand | 0:42:27 | 0:42:29 | |
how truly powerful this image originally was, | 0:42:29 | 0:42:31 | |
because we, in the West, we read images, like texts, | 0:42:31 | 0:42:34 | |
from left to right | 0:42:34 | 0:42:35 | |
while the Japanese read images the other way. | 0:42:35 | 0:42:38 | |
So, for us, we are travelling with the wave, | 0:42:38 | 0:42:40 | |
and it's really quite good fun, | 0:42:40 | 0:42:42 | |
but for the Japanese, | 0:42:42 | 0:42:43 | |
they are travelling against the wave | 0:42:43 | 0:42:45 | |
and it's really quite terrifying. | 0:42:45 | 0:42:47 | |
It's an absolutely breathtaking piece of design. | 0:42:49 | 0:42:51 | |
Every single element is manipulated to amplify the drama. | 0:42:51 | 0:42:57 | |
It's printed in this bright synthetic Prussian blue pigment | 0:42:57 | 0:43:00 | |
that hasn't lost any of its intensity over the years - | 0:43:00 | 0:43:04 | |
and the froth, I absolutely love the froth, | 0:43:04 | 0:43:06 | |
which is depicted as hundreds of individual fingers | 0:43:06 | 0:43:10 | |
trying to grab hold of their victims... | 0:43:10 | 0:43:13 | |
and this one is so simple, | 0:43:13 | 0:43:16 | |
but I could look at it for hours and hours and hours. | 0:43:16 | 0:43:19 | |
Fine Wind, Clear Sky, | 0:43:21 | 0:43:24 | |
otherwise known as Red Fuji - | 0:43:24 | 0:43:26 | |
red because that's the colour the mountain turns | 0:43:26 | 0:43:29 | |
when the sun hits it in the autumn months. | 0:43:29 | 0:43:32 | |
Now, for all The Great Wave's global fame, | 0:43:32 | 0:43:34 | |
within Japan this image was the most popular print of the series | 0:43:34 | 0:43:38 | |
by some way - and you can see why. | 0:43:38 | 0:43:41 | |
It has a simplicity that no other image has. | 0:43:41 | 0:43:44 | |
There are no people. There's no foreground. | 0:43:44 | 0:43:46 | |
There is simply mountain and sky | 0:43:46 | 0:43:49 | |
divided by one absolutely beautiful line - | 0:43:49 | 0:43:53 | |
but that simplicity is deceptive, | 0:43:53 | 0:43:56 | |
because, in reality, this is an unbelievably risky piece of work, | 0:43:56 | 0:44:01 | |
because what Hokusai has done | 0:44:01 | 0:44:03 | |
is he has taken the very subject of his picture, the mountain itself, | 0:44:03 | 0:44:07 | |
and pushed it off centre and almost off the edge of the page, | 0:44:07 | 0:44:12 | |
and then, to counterbalance that decision, | 0:44:12 | 0:44:14 | |
he's filled the whole left-hand side of the page with all these details, | 0:44:14 | 0:44:18 | |
the green forest, the clouds that look like a school of fish | 0:44:18 | 0:44:21 | |
and even his signature and the title. | 0:44:21 | 0:44:24 | |
Now, without those, this whole composition would fall apart, | 0:44:24 | 0:44:28 | |
and yet it works absolutely perfectly - | 0:44:28 | 0:44:31 | |
and that is what I find so thrilling about looking at this picture. | 0:44:31 | 0:44:35 | |
We're watching an artist at the very top of his game | 0:44:35 | 0:44:38 | |
setting himself an almost impossible challenge | 0:44:38 | 0:44:41 | |
and then triumphing in the end. | 0:44:41 | 0:44:43 | |
Hokusai's unforgettable images | 0:44:47 | 0:44:49 | |
celebrate both the permanence and impermanence of nature, | 0:44:49 | 0:44:53 | |
because whatever takes place around it, Mount Fuji stands firm. | 0:44:53 | 0:44:57 | |
Hokusai's humans are tiny and inconsequential by comparison, | 0:44:58 | 0:45:02 | |
and have little influence on their environment... | 0:45:02 | 0:45:05 | |
..but in the years after Hokusai's death, | 0:45:06 | 0:45:09 | |
Japan's relationship with its landscape changed dramatically. | 0:45:09 | 0:45:13 | |
In the 20th century, Japanese society rapidly modernised. | 0:45:17 | 0:45:21 | |
Cities expanded, vast swathes of countryside were developed | 0:45:22 | 0:45:26 | |
and roads and rail lines cut across the nation. | 0:45:26 | 0:45:30 | |
At the same time, | 0:45:30 | 0:45:31 | |
Japan was repeatedly ravaged by natural disasters... | 0:45:31 | 0:45:35 | |
..and these made the Japanese people yet more determined | 0:45:36 | 0:45:39 | |
to control their environment... | 0:45:39 | 0:45:41 | |
..concreting their coastlines and damming thousands of rivers. | 0:45:42 | 0:45:46 | |
Today it sometimes seems | 0:45:48 | 0:45:50 | |
that the Japanese aren't in harmony with nature - | 0:45:50 | 0:45:53 | |
they are at war with it. | 0:45:53 | 0:45:55 | |
Alex Kerr has written extensively | 0:45:56 | 0:45:58 | |
about modern Japan's troubled relationship with its environment. | 0:45:58 | 0:46:03 | |
The transformation of nature is not unique to Japan. | 0:46:03 | 0:46:05 | |
This has happened absolutely everywhere. | 0:46:05 | 0:46:07 | |
It happened with great speed and great thoroughness in Japan... | 0:46:07 | 0:46:14 | |
based on a kind of industrial sense | 0:46:14 | 0:46:18 | |
that everything should be made industrially useful, | 0:46:18 | 0:46:23 | |
and so let's cut down those messy forests | 0:46:23 | 0:46:26 | |
and replant them with nice sugi trees that line up in rows, | 0:46:26 | 0:46:30 | |
and they'll grow fast and they'll be good industrial lumber, you know? | 0:46:30 | 0:46:34 | |
Let's straighten out those messy rivers | 0:46:34 | 0:46:37 | |
and line them with concrete, | 0:46:37 | 0:46:39 | |
and that will be so much more civilised | 0:46:39 | 0:46:41 | |
and international and modern. | 0:46:41 | 0:46:43 | |
Tens of thousands of rivers have been dammed. | 0:46:51 | 0:46:53 | |
As a matter of fact, | 0:46:53 | 0:46:55 | |
it's said that only three rivers remain that are undammed - | 0:46:55 | 0:46:58 | |
and even those, of course, have concrete embankments. | 0:46:58 | 0:47:01 | |
Now, this is something that everybody did. | 0:47:01 | 0:47:03 | |
Look at America, where we built just horrendous dams by the thousand, | 0:47:03 | 0:47:07 | |
but at some point - | 0:47:07 | 0:47:09 | |
and this happened in most other industrialised nations - | 0:47:09 | 0:47:12 | |
there came a point maybe 20, 30 years ago | 0:47:12 | 0:47:14 | |
when we started to look back and review whether this was necessary - | 0:47:14 | 0:47:18 | |
and in America, we've torn down hundreds of dams, | 0:47:18 | 0:47:21 | |
including some very large ones. | 0:47:21 | 0:47:23 | |
Japan, unfortunately, is stuck on autopilot, | 0:47:23 | 0:47:26 | |
and so the idea that we must dam these rivers | 0:47:26 | 0:47:29 | |
got fixed in the bureaucratic system and goes on forever. | 0:47:29 | 0:47:33 | |
So it's natural to ask, well, why? Why couldn't Japan stop? | 0:47:39 | 0:47:43 | |
I think one aspect of it is that Japan is thorough, | 0:47:43 | 0:47:46 | |
and thoroughness is the strength of this culture. | 0:47:46 | 0:47:49 | |
That's why you have the tea ceremony | 0:47:49 | 0:47:51 | |
and that's why you have the excellence in car manufacture | 0:47:51 | 0:47:54 | |
and camera manufacture and the delicacy of Japanese art | 0:47:54 | 0:47:57 | |
and the incredible refinement of the gardens, all of that - | 0:47:57 | 0:48:00 | |
but these are two-edged swords, | 0:48:00 | 0:48:02 | |
and so, the other side of it is, that once Japan starts concreting, | 0:48:02 | 0:48:06 | |
boy, will it concrete - | 0:48:06 | 0:48:07 | |
and it can never stop until the last tiny little bit of roughness | 0:48:07 | 0:48:11 | |
has been smoothed out. | 0:48:11 | 0:48:12 | |
And there's another twist, | 0:48:15 | 0:48:18 | |
which I think is part of this paradox | 0:48:18 | 0:48:20 | |
of how could Japan be the land of aesthetic sensibility, | 0:48:20 | 0:48:24 | |
which it still is, | 0:48:24 | 0:48:25 | |
and large parts of it be as ugly as they are? | 0:48:25 | 0:48:29 | |
And I think it's because of focus, | 0:48:29 | 0:48:32 | |
and it's often been pointed out | 0:48:32 | 0:48:33 | |
that the Japanese are capable of looking at the beautiful rice paddy | 0:48:33 | 0:48:38 | |
and completely ignoring the big billboard | 0:48:38 | 0:48:40 | |
that's stuck right in the middle of it. | 0:48:40 | 0:48:42 | |
The thing about this Jurassic nature of Japan | 0:48:52 | 0:48:55 | |
is that that was ancient Shinto. | 0:48:55 | 0:48:58 | |
There was something mysterious, divine... | 0:48:58 | 0:49:02 | |
That's where the Japanese saw the gods... | 0:49:03 | 0:49:06 | |
..and what I've found, | 0:49:09 | 0:49:10 | |
as I go around Japan talking and writing about these things, | 0:49:10 | 0:49:13 | |
is an incredible response from the Japanese. | 0:49:13 | 0:49:16 | |
That feeling is still within them, and I think that gives me hope, | 0:49:16 | 0:49:21 | |
and I'm already starting to feel a bit of a shift. | 0:49:21 | 0:49:25 | |
Japan is beginning, or the Japanese are now beginning, | 0:49:25 | 0:49:28 | |
to look at their natural environment and think, "Wait a minute." | 0:49:28 | 0:49:31 | |
So, there's something to be hopeful for. | 0:49:31 | 0:49:34 | |
All cultures are contradictory - of course they are - | 0:49:45 | 0:49:48 | |
but one of the most obvious contradictions here | 0:49:48 | 0:49:51 | |
is in the Japanese people's relationship to their environment, | 0:49:51 | 0:49:54 | |
because on the one hand, | 0:49:54 | 0:49:56 | |
Japanese culture has, from the very beginning, | 0:49:56 | 0:49:58 | |
been so sensitive to the beauty and fragility of nature, | 0:49:58 | 0:50:03 | |
but on the other hand, | 0:50:03 | 0:50:04 | |
one only has to travel around this country | 0:50:04 | 0:50:06 | |
to see how much of the landscape has been scarred... | 0:50:06 | 0:50:09 | |
..but even today, the great Shinto spirit still survives. | 0:50:19 | 0:50:23 | |
I'm travelling to a place I've wanted to visit for a long time. | 0:50:23 | 0:50:27 | |
Naoshima is a small island on the Seto Inland Sea | 0:50:30 | 0:50:33 | |
in the south-west of Japan. | 0:50:33 | 0:50:35 | |
It was originally inhabited only by fishermen, | 0:50:35 | 0:50:38 | |
but now it has some very different residents. | 0:50:38 | 0:50:41 | |
About 25 years ago, in the early 1990s, | 0:50:46 | 0:50:49 | |
a Japanese educational publisher called the Benesse Corporation, | 0:50:49 | 0:50:54 | |
together with other supporters, | 0:50:54 | 0:50:55 | |
started transforming this small island into a centre of modern art. | 0:50:55 | 0:51:00 | |
Naoshima is now home to dozens of museums, | 0:51:02 | 0:51:05 | |
installations and art projects, | 0:51:05 | 0:51:07 | |
and contemporary art from all over the world. | 0:51:07 | 0:51:10 | |
There's a distinctly James Bond feel to the place... | 0:51:17 | 0:51:20 | |
..But I've come to see a work | 0:51:24 | 0:51:25 | |
in which ancient Shinto attitudes to nature | 0:51:25 | 0:51:28 | |
have been brilliantly revived | 0:51:28 | 0:51:30 | |
by the great Japanese photographer Hiroshi Sugimoto. | 0:51:30 | 0:51:34 | |
Sugimoto has long been inspired by nature. | 0:51:40 | 0:51:43 | |
He is perhaps most famous | 0:51:46 | 0:51:47 | |
for a series of photographs begun in 1980... | 0:51:47 | 0:51:51 | |
..black and white images, | 0:51:53 | 0:51:55 | |
all identical in form, | 0:51:55 | 0:51:57 | |
of seas, skies and horizons | 0:51:57 | 0:52:00 | |
from all over the world... | 0:52:00 | 0:52:01 | |
..but though they are universal, | 0:52:03 | 0:52:05 | |
they owe much to Japan. | 0:52:05 | 0:52:07 | |
They remind me of the mythical ocean origins of the country... | 0:52:10 | 0:52:14 | |
..the ambiguous inky brushstrokes of Zen painters... | 0:52:17 | 0:52:21 | |
..and Hokusai's attempts to capture a single form in every possible way. | 0:52:22 | 0:52:27 | |
What I want for the present is the consciousness of the human being | 0:52:33 | 0:52:38 | |
at the very early stage. | 0:52:38 | 0:52:40 | |
I was looking for some kind of image that I can share with early man, | 0:52:40 | 0:52:47 | |
ancient people, and probably... | 0:52:47 | 0:52:50 | |
..seascapes came to my mind, | 0:52:51 | 0:52:54 | |
the sea. The land, we changed it, | 0:52:54 | 0:52:57 | |
so we cannot see the land that the Stone Age people used to watch - | 0:52:57 | 0:53:02 | |
but the seascape, might be we can share the same images. | 0:53:02 | 0:53:05 | |
But on Naoshima, Sugimoto took on a quite different project. | 0:53:13 | 0:53:17 | |
This is the Go'o Shrine. | 0:53:20 | 0:53:22 | |
Inspired by Shintoism and Japan's ancient past, | 0:53:22 | 0:53:26 | |
it is both an artwork and a sanctuary. | 0:53:26 | 0:53:29 | |
There has been a shrine here since the 15th century, | 0:53:31 | 0:53:34 | |
but it fell out of use in more recent times. | 0:53:34 | 0:53:38 | |
In 2002, Sugimoto was commissioned to make an artwork on the site | 0:53:38 | 0:53:42 | |
and decided to build a new kind of structure. | 0:53:42 | 0:53:45 | |
I surprised myself that I received a kind of architecture commission. | 0:53:46 | 0:53:51 | |
That made my life change. That wasn't... | 0:53:51 | 0:53:57 | |
totally unexpected. | 0:53:57 | 0:53:59 | |
I'm proud of my life, that I became an architect, now! | 0:53:59 | 0:54:02 | |
HE CHUCKLES | 0:54:02 | 0:54:04 | |
The design is based on buildings at Ise, in southern Japan, | 0:54:06 | 0:54:10 | |
the holiest place in Shintoism. | 0:54:10 | 0:54:12 | |
The Shintoism is not well organised. | 0:54:14 | 0:54:17 | |
It's very hard to explain - | 0:54:17 | 0:54:19 | |
and after the Buddhism came to Japan in the sixth century, | 0:54:19 | 0:54:23 | |
only that time the people can write about coming... | 0:54:23 | 0:54:28 | |
and think about coming, with language - | 0:54:28 | 0:54:31 | |
but I think it's a very, very primitive stage of human mind... | 0:54:31 | 0:54:36 | |
..but still valuable - we have to think backwards, | 0:54:37 | 0:54:41 | |
how humans lived with nature | 0:54:41 | 0:54:44 | |
for many, many thousands of years. | 0:54:44 | 0:54:46 | |
Leading down from the small building, | 0:54:50 | 0:54:52 | |
a set of glass steps descends straight into the ground | 0:54:52 | 0:54:56 | |
to a hidden chamber below. | 0:54:56 | 0:54:58 | |
Here, Sugimoto has created a space he feels evokes prehistoric Japan. | 0:55:03 | 0:55:09 | |
It's so atmospheric down here, | 0:55:16 | 0:55:18 | |
deep beneath the volcanic Japanese rock - | 0:55:18 | 0:55:21 | |
and though this is a modern work of art by a modern artist, | 0:55:21 | 0:55:25 | |
there is something consciously ancient about it, | 0:55:25 | 0:55:29 | |
because this piece is inspired by the old Shinto idea | 0:55:29 | 0:55:32 | |
that the world around us, even the ground on which we stand, | 0:55:32 | 0:55:37 | |
is animated and energised by the sacred. | 0:55:37 | 0:55:41 | |
We destroy so much nature, | 0:55:51 | 0:55:53 | |
and now I think it's a turning point. | 0:55:53 | 0:55:55 | |
So, what has to be studied again, | 0:55:58 | 0:56:03 | |
the Shintoism kind of concept of spiritualism, | 0:56:03 | 0:56:07 | |
how to live with nature. | 0:56:07 | 0:56:10 | |
That's the message from Japanese Shintoism, I think. | 0:56:10 | 0:56:14 | |
I am back to where I started... | 0:56:36 | 0:56:39 | |
..in Japan's dense forests, | 0:56:40 | 0:56:42 | |
the flicker of the spirits all around me. | 0:56:42 | 0:56:45 | |
In the course of my journey, | 0:56:47 | 0:56:49 | |
I have encountered a culture whose preoccupation with nature | 0:56:49 | 0:56:52 | |
seems almost hard-wired, | 0:56:52 | 0:56:55 | |
that sees the landscape as sacred | 0:56:55 | 0:56:58 | |
and has painted and reshaped it for centuries - | 0:56:58 | 0:57:01 | |
and though modern Japan doesn't always seem to value nature, | 0:57:01 | 0:57:05 | |
nature has shaped its values, | 0:57:05 | 0:57:09 | |
aesthetic principles so different from those of the West. | 0:57:09 | 0:57:13 | |
It's often said that Japanese culture | 0:57:26 | 0:57:29 | |
is all about harmony with nature, | 0:57:29 | 0:57:31 | |
but that's not what I've seen. | 0:57:31 | 0:57:33 | |
This landscape may be beautiful, | 0:57:33 | 0:57:35 | |
but it's also unstable and dangerous, | 0:57:35 | 0:57:38 | |
and that paradox, I think, | 0:57:38 | 0:57:40 | |
is at the heart of Japanese interactions with nature. | 0:57:40 | 0:57:43 | |
On the one hand, they celebrate it, they revere it, they mythologise it, | 0:57:43 | 0:57:48 | |
but on the other hand, they possess an old yearning to tame it. | 0:57:48 | 0:57:52 | |
In the next episode, I'll take a very different path through Japan... | 0:58:09 | 0:58:13 | |
..a path through its greatest cities. | 0:58:14 | 0:58:17 | |
It's a story marked by dramatic periods of destruction and renewal | 0:58:19 | 0:58:23 | |
that unleashed new forms of creativity. | 0:58:23 | 0:58:25 | |
I'll explore its ancient capital and its refined culture. | 0:58:27 | 0:58:30 | |
I'll sample the energy of the emerging metropolis... | 0:58:33 | 0:58:36 | |
..before delving into today's megacity, | 0:58:38 | 0:58:41 | |
from its dark underbelly to its shimmering future. | 0:58:41 | 0:58:46 |