Cities The Art of Japanese Life


Cities

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This programme contains some scenes of a sexual nature.

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It was a bright August morning,

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and commuters were making their way to work in a provincial city

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in western Japan. It was shaping up to be a day like any other.

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But at exactly 08:15,

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an American bombardier above them pulled a lever.

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The commuters may have seen a flash of light,

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but within seconds, they and the city of Hiroshima

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were engulfed in the largest man-made explosion in history.

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70,000 people were killed instantly,

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and the city was all but annihilated.

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It was the beginning of the nuclear age.

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But the Japanese had seen disasters before.

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The history of Japanese cities is the history of their destruction.

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For centuries, indeed millennia,

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earthquakes, fires, floods, tsunamis and wars

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have decimated the country's towns and cities over and over again.

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But this relentless cycle has had a dramatic creative impact.

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It has forced the Japanese

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to constantly rebuild and reimagine their cities,

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and today, they are some of

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the most dynamic places in the world.

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To discover why, I'm going to explore the culture

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of three great Japanese cities in three decisive eras.

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Kyoto, the country's capital for over a thousand years.

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A city of elegance and splendour that gave birth

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to a golden age of painting and poetry

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and even turned tea into an art form.

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Holding this bowl is a kind of revelation.

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Edo, a teeming metropolis with a dark underbelly.

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A floating world of actors, artists,

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and sex workers that produced a bohemian, urban culture

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centuries before the West.

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And Tokyo, today the largest urban area on the planet,

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a conveyor belt of fashion, film,

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and contemporary art that now influences the entire world.

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These three cities produce some of Japan's finest

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and most distinctive art, but they did more than that.

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They also shaped the country's attitude

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towards its past and present,

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as well as to East and West, and in doing so,

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they helped mould the very idea of Japan itself.

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In the spring of 793 AD,

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a small group of men embarked on a journey through Honshu.

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They claimed they were on a hunting trip.

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But they weren't hunting animals,

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they were searching for a piece of land.

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The men were convinced that their hometown,

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which was called Nagaoka-kyo, was cursed.

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For the best part of a decade, it had been ravaged by floods,

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disease, famine, and even a series of mysterious murders.

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They knew they had to abandon it,

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but first, they had to find a site for a new city.

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They hadn't gone far before they alighted on something promising,

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a vast, fertile basin,

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surrounded on three sides by a fortress of mountains,

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and irrigated by not one, but two rivers.

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They had found their site.

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By the autumn of the following year,

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the Emperor had founded his capital here.

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He called it Heian-kyo, capital of peace and tranquillity,

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though it later became known as Kyoto.

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Kyoto has been built and rebuilt many times since then,

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but it remains a place of unparalleled riches.

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It is home to 1,600 temples, 400 shrines,

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and 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites,

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more than any other city in the world.

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The original city of Kyoto was a work of art in its own right.

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It was inspired by Chang'an, the great capital of China,

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and every part of it was carefully planned.

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The city was organised, almost like New York,

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according to a strict grid system.

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Now, these streets were splendid thoroughfares.

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Even the narrowest of them was 78 feet wide, and the widest of them,

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Suzaku Avenue, which ran right down through the middle of the city,

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that was almost 300 feet wide.

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It was probably the widest boulevard in the world at the time.

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And Suzaku Avenue terminated right here, in the north of Kyoto,

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at the city palace.

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Now, I've got to say, looking down over this scale model,

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I really think it looks like a wonderful place to live.

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Most of the houses are one storey high, so it's light, it's airy.

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There are gardens, there are lakes, there are rivers.

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It is a world away from the dark warrens of filth

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that made up most cities at the time.

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Kyoto was the blueprint for a utopia,

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a dream of a rational and beautiful society

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that the Emperor hoped would last forever.

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But it wasn't as perfect as it seemed.

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Over the following generations,

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the palace burned down no less than 14 times,

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and the whole western half of the city was repeatedly flooded.

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But this didn't prevent the fortunate members of the court

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from enjoying the finer things in life...

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..most of them borrowed from the Chinese.

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They ruminated on cherry blossoms and staged moon-watching ceremonies.

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They even collected crickets

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and made music to accompany their chirps.

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In Kyoto, style was emphatically substance.

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If any one idea governed the cultural values of the court,

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it was the word miyabi.

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Now, miyabi doesn't have a direct English translation,

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but it meant a kind of refinement or aesthetic sensibility -

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the ability to recognise and appreciate beauty

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in all of its forms.

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The culture of Kyoto was advanced in another notable way.

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Many of its leading practitioners were women,

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and the greatest of them was Murasaki Shikibu.

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Born into a minor aristocratic family around 973 AD,

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Murasaki served as a lady-in-waiting at the Imperial Court.

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But in her spare time, she started writing something.

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Murasaki was writing a story of monumental proportions,

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indeed, twice as long as War And Peace.

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It spanned four generations and 75 years.

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It contained 430 different characters and 795 unique poems.

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And today, many consider it to be

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the first novel ever written anywhere in the world.

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It was called The Tale Of Genji.

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The story focuses on the life of a rakish young prince

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called Hikaru Genji.

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Intelligent, beautiful and possessed with impeccable taste,

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Genji is the paragon of miyabi.

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And though he spends much of his youth womanizing,

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he becomes one of the court's most powerful men.

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He builds a grand palace in the city

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and fills it with the women he loves.

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But then things start to go wrong.

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Genji marries a woman who then bears another man's child.

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His relationships with his other lovers deteriorate,

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and when his greatest love dies, Genji loses the will to live.

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It is not long before his life also comes to an end.

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"The whole world mourned Genji.

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"It was as if a light had gone out.

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"For his ladies, for his grandchildren,

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"for others who had been close to him, the sadness was, of course,

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"more immediate and intense.

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"'It is true,' they all thought,

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"'The cherry blossoms of spring are loved

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"'because they bloom so briefly.'"

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Genji's life was indeed cut short,

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but Murasaki's remarkable novel lived on.

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Many illustrations of The Tale Of Genji

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were made in painted hand scrolls.

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Here in the Tokugawa Museum in Nagoya,

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are the oldest examples from the 12th century.

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Only fragments survive,

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but they are some of the country's greatest treasures.

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They are almost a millennium old.

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The complex patterns of colour and shape

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still convey powerful emotional stories.

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And I've come to look at one of the most affecting.

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This painting captures a turning point in Genji's life.

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While he was away, his wife had an affair with his nephew.

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She became pregnant and gave birth to a boy called Kaoru.

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Now Genji didn't want to admit to being cuckolded,

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so he had to except Kaoru as his heir even though he knew he wasn't.

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And here, we can see Genji holding the baby boy in his arms,

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and though this image is small and old and tatty,

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you can still see the complex,

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powerful emotions racing across Genji's face.

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It's taut with resentment and humiliation and yet,

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as Genji looks down on that beautiful, innocent boy,

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we can see him beginning to soften.

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His eyebrows are lifting and his little pink lips

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are curling into a smile.

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The composition has been used to emphasise and dramatise

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Genji's own torn state of mind.

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So these powerful diagonals race across the surface of the picture

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and imprison Genji right into the corner.

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The fabrics tumble into this chaotic mess of lines,

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and, perhaps most powerfully of all,

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the relationship between Genji here and his wife,

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who has become a nun following her indiscretion, speaks volumes.

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They are together, but they are, of course, completely apart.

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This masterpiece of Japanese art

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reminds me that, though times may change,

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human emotions don't.

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The people of Kyoto had mastered the art of painting...

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..but aesthetics pervaded everything they did.

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Poetry, calligraphy, garden design and over the centuries,

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it even extended to tea.

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The Japanese had been enjoying tea since the ninth century,

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when it was introduced from China.

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But in the late 16th century,

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it began to take on a special significance.

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At the Buddhist temple of Daitoku-ji

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is a teahouse made in honour

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of the great Japanese tea master Sen no Rikyu.

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Here, in a small, simple room,

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Rikyu and his companions turned tea drinking into an art form.

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Sen no Rikyu believed that tea was much more than a drink,

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it was a revelation.

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When drunk in the right way,

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tea helped people rise to a different plane of consciousness.

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"When you hear the water splash into the tea bowl," he once said,

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"you will feel the dust in your mind is washed away."

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Sen no Rikyu's ideas gradually crystallised

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into what we know as the Japanese tea ceremony.

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TRANSLATION:

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Sen no Rikyu wanted the tea ceremony

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to express an appreciation of modesty,

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imperfection and impermanence,

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and this even extended to his utensils.

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He thought traditional ceramics were too elaborate,

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so he set about finding an alternative.

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He asked a craftsman called Chojiro

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to fashion a simple, undecorated tea bowl.

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This was the beginning of raku pottery,

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and Chojiro's descendants are still making it today.

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Raku Kichizaemon XV is the 15th generation of potters in his family.

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He continues a tradition that was started 450 years ago,

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and he is, in my view,

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one of Japan's greatest living artists.

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So, where are we here?

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Here's many, many old clay.

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Now, I use the clay, this clay,

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my grand-grandfathers rub

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about 100 years ago.

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Wow. And are you collecting clay for your descendants?

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Yes. Yes. Yes.

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TRANSLATION:

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This is a seminal tea bowl.

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It was made by Chojiro, the founder of raku pottery.

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It's more than 400 years old.

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It might even have been used by Sen no Rikyu

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in the late 16th century.

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Now, at first, it doesn't look like much.

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It's small and misshapen,

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the walls aren't straight, the lips are wobbly,

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and it's covered in a simple, plain black glaze.

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But to really appreciate it, you need to pick it up...

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..because holding this bowl is a kind of revelation.

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The weighting, the texture, the temperature are all just perfect.

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And as I hold it, I can feel this groove

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running along the middle of it

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that fits the hands perfectly.

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It feels almost as though

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you're feeling Chojiro's fingers 400 years later.

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This is an artwork to be held, to be touched, to be felt.

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This is an artwork to be used.

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This tea bowl is the epitome of wabi-sabi,

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that Japanese reverence for the imperfect, the unfinished,

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the worn-out, because to appreciate those things

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isn't only to be humble,

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it's to understand that we, too, are imperfect.

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We, too, are as flawed as this tea bowl.

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So this object isn't simply a bowl, it's a lesson.

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A lesson to all of us to appreciate the simpler things in life.

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In the 800 years since its founding,

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Kyoto had done much to establish a classical Japanese culture,

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although much of it had been Chinese in flavour.

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Kyoto would continue to flourish after 1600,

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but a new regime was coming, and it would create a new great city.

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Japan was embroiled in civil war for the entire 16th century...

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..until, in 1600,

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a warrior called Tokugawa Ieyasu took control of the country.

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He was given the title shogun

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and established the Tokugawa Shogunate

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which ruled the country for more than 260 years.

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Rejecting Kyoto, Ieyasu moved his capital

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to a down-at-heel fishing village

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300 miles north called Edo.

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It would not remain a fishing village for long.

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Like most Japanese cities, Edo was prone to destruction.

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In fact, over the next few centuries,

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it was torn apart by fire pretty much every 20 to 30 years,

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but those fires did nothing to suppress Edo's growth.

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By the early 1700s, more than a million people lived there,

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twice as many as in London.

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It had become one of the largest cities - perhaps THE largest city -

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in the world.

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The Tokugawa closed the country's borders

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to all but a few Dutch traders

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and enforced a rigid social hierarchy.

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The rulers of Edo preached a gospel of discipline and austerity,

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but not everyone was listening.

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Over time, the townsfolk started to make their own culture,

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a popular culture, a counterculture of astonishing vitality.

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Their Edo was populated by actors,

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dancers, sumo wrestlers, puppet shows,

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gangsters and courtesans.

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It was a long way from the refined culture of the court.

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Japan had seen nothing like it before.

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These decadent goings-on

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were centred around Edo's pleasure district,

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a walled community that was often referred to as ukiyo,

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which in English means floating world.

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But the floating world wasn't only a physical place,

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it was also a state of mind.

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"Living only for the moment,

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"turning our full attention to the pleasures of the moon, the snow,

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"the cherry blossoms and the maple leaves,

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"singing songs, drinking wine,

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"diverting ourselves and just floating, floating,

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"caring not a whit for the pauperism staring us in the face,

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"refusing to be disheartened,

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"like a gourd floating along with the river current -

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"this is what we call the floating world."

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We tend to talk a lot about 19th-century Paris

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being the epitome of a modern, urban, decadent culture,

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but Edo was doing exactly the same thing 200 years earlier.

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And Edo's floating world produced art forms

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that were distinctly Japanese.

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One of them was kabuki.

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Legend has it that kabuki was invented in Kyoto in 1603,

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the same year as the shogunate itself.

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It's said that it started when a group of women

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staged an explicit song and dance routine

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for a group of staggered men, and, unsurprisingly,

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it proved popular.

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Kabuki developed into a striking form of theatre,

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with highly stylised movement and extravagant costumes.

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The best actors became major city celebrities.

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Kabuki theatres could be raucous places.

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The audiences hissed and booed, they leapt onstage,

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they started scuffles and riots in the stands.

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In rooms like this,

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the strict social order of the shogunate

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could be temporarily and deliriously abandoned.

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The government tried to regulate this exuberant new art form,

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but it proved popular even with the samurai, and it's still going today.

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Ichikawa Ebizo is the 11th generation

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in a single dynasty of kabuki performers

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that goes back more than 300 years to the Edo period.

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He is also one of the most famous men in Japan.

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TRANSLATION:

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MUSIC PLAYS

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Kabuki was first performed by an all-female cast, but the shogunate,

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who disliked its licentious reputation,

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banned women from the stage.

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They were soon replaced by men in both male and female roles.

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Performances could last all day and attracted every social class.

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Young and old, rich and poor rubbed shoulders.

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TRANSLATION:

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Lots of what we know today about traditional kabuki

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comes from the remarkable images that immortalized it.

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Like kabuki, they were a crucial part of Edo's floating world,

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and are now synonymous with Japanese culture in general.

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Wood block printing had been practised in Japan

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for hundreds of years,

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but in the Edo period,

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it became possible to make full-colour prints

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for the first time.

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They became hugely successful.

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They were very common and usually very cheap...

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..but they are now the best-known images in Japanese art.

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Kazuo Watanabe is a woodcut artist.

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He has been making prints for 50 years

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and uses the same methods pioneered in 17th-century Edo.

0:28:470:28:51

How did you start as an Ukiyo-e print maker in the first place?

0:28:520:28:58

TRANSLATION:

0:28:580:29:01

Woodcuts were bought and sold around Edo in their thousands,

0:30:200:30:23

and many focused on the floating world.

0:30:230:30:26

The Japanese even called them Ukiyo-e,

0:30:300:30:33

pictures of the floating world.

0:30:330:30:35

And no artist captured it better than Kitagawa Utamaro.

0:30:380:30:42

Utamaro is one of the great enigmas in art.

0:30:470:30:50

His pictures may be world famous,

0:30:500:30:52

but we know virtually nothing about the man who made them.

0:30:520:30:55

We don't know when he was born, we know nothing about his background.

0:30:550:30:59

He's mentioned in no official records.

0:30:590:31:01

He left behind no letters, no diaries, no personal documents.

0:31:010:31:06

Like the floating world, Utamaro thrived in the half light.

0:31:060:31:10

One thing, however, seems likely -

0:31:130:31:15

Utamaro spent plenty of time in Edo's red light district.

0:31:150:31:19

A third of all of his pictures are of the city's sex workers.

0:31:210:31:25

Utamaro's fascination with the women of Edo

0:31:320:31:34

is evident in a book he published in 1788,

0:31:340:31:38

called The Poem Of The Pillow.

0:31:380:31:40

It consisted of 12 salacious images.

0:31:410:31:45

This is a rare, early copy

0:31:450:31:47

containing the original Utamaro prints,

0:31:470:31:50

and I've come to see my favourite.

0:31:500:31:52

This picture depicts a man and a woman

0:31:530:31:56

kissing upstairs in a teahouse.

0:31:560:32:00

We know it's upstairs

0:32:000:32:02

because the leaves of a camellia tree are peeking out,

0:32:020:32:05

almost eavesdropping, over the balcony.

0:32:050:32:08

There's some suggestion that the characters are already having sex.

0:32:080:32:13

On the fan, there's a poem that reads,

0:32:130:32:16

"Its beak caught firmly in the clam shell,

0:32:160:32:19

"the snipe cannot escape of an autumn evening."

0:32:190:32:23

Fortunately, perhaps unfortunately,

0:32:230:32:26

we can neither see the beak nor the clam shell.

0:32:260:32:29

But you know what I find so seductive about this image

0:32:290:32:32

is what ISN'T shown.

0:32:320:32:34

We can't, for instance, see the faces of this couple.

0:32:370:32:41

We have to imagine who they are.

0:32:410:32:43

It's the details that are so irresistible.

0:32:440:32:47

The curve of her buttocks.

0:32:490:32:51

The nape of her neck,

0:32:510:32:53

which at the time was considered more sexual even than the genitals.

0:32:530:32:58

Her hair standing up on end.

0:32:580:33:00

His left hand touching her shoulder.

0:33:000:33:03

Her left hand touching his chin.

0:33:030:33:06

Phew!

0:33:060:33:08

But, I tell you, if you look closer,

0:33:080:33:10

there is something truly remarkable in this picture.

0:33:100:33:13

Right here, half hidden by her hair, is an eye, his eye,

0:33:130:33:18

looking at her, or perhaps it's looking at us.

0:33:180:33:22

Now, I have no evidence for this whatsoever,

0:33:220:33:24

but I wonder, I just wonder,

0:33:240:33:26

whether that is Utamaro himself, staring at us across the centuries.

0:33:260:33:32

Utamaro was a master of understatement.

0:33:350:33:38

But not all his images showed such restraint.

0:33:400:33:42

Erotic images were popular with both men and women

0:33:470:33:50

at every level of society in Japan.

0:33:500:33:53

We might see them as vaguely pornographic today,

0:33:530:33:56

but the term wouldn't have been understood in 18th-century Edo.

0:33:560:33:59

They were called shunga,

0:34:040:34:06

which literally meant spring pictures,

0:34:060:34:09

and they celebrated intimacy and sexual pleasure

0:34:090:34:12

in imaginative and often explicit detail.

0:34:120:34:15

But the floating world was not the only subject of wood block printing.

0:34:200:34:23

In the 1850s, Hiroshige made 100 views

0:34:270:34:30

of the great city of Edo itself.

0:34:300:34:32

They capture its shop fronts, its teeming streets...

0:34:340:34:38

..its waterways and its coast.

0:34:410:34:44

The images themselves are breathtaking.

0:34:450:34:48

The inventiveness, the dynamism, the wit

0:34:500:34:54

and the irrepressible beauty.

0:34:540:34:56

Hiroshige, Utamaro

0:35:000:35:02

and the other printmakers of Edo had perfected

0:35:020:35:05

a remarkable Japanese art form,

0:35:050:35:08

but they'd also established the basis of a new visual grammar,

0:35:080:35:12

bold, graphic, economical,

0:35:120:35:15

and it wouldn't be long before their style caught on around the world.

0:35:150:35:19

In the mid-19th century,

0:35:240:35:25

Japanese trade routes began to open

0:35:250:35:28

and their goods began to be sent across the seas.

0:35:280:35:31

Kimonos, fans, writing paper,

0:35:310:35:34

porcelain and pottery, lacquerware and,

0:35:340:35:38

of course, countless ukiyo-e prints soon flooded the West,

0:35:380:35:42

and the West was astonished.

0:35:420:35:45

European artists were impressed by ukiyo-e prints.

0:35:490:35:52

They turned up in Manet's backgrounds...

0:35:530:35:56

..and Monet's foregrounds.

0:35:580:35:59

Vincent van Gogh was so inspired by Hiroshige

0:36:010:36:04

that he copied this image of Edo,

0:36:040:36:07

and so Japanese innovations helped shape modern art as we know it.

0:36:070:36:11

The people of Edo had achieved something really rather significant.

0:36:150:36:19

They had invented a culture that, for the first time,

0:36:190:36:22

seemed distinctly Japanese,

0:36:220:36:25

and one that then went on to influence the rest of the world.

0:36:250:36:28

But as Japan changed the West, so the West changed Japan.

0:36:350:36:40

Previously isolated for hundreds of years,

0:36:430:36:45

traditional Japanese society now seemed out of step with modern life.

0:36:450:36:50

The rule of the samurai and their closed borders was coming to an end.

0:36:500:36:54

From the 1860s,

0:36:560:36:58

Japan would discard much of its centuries-old culture

0:36:580:37:01

and aim instead to become a modern, industrial nation.

0:37:010:37:04

As a statement of intent, the city of Edo would be rebranded.

0:37:060:37:10

Japan's capital was both new and old.

0:37:300:37:33

It was essentially still the city of Edo.

0:37:330:37:36

Same site, same buildings, many of the same residents.

0:37:360:37:39

But it was now reactivated with a new identity and a new name.

0:37:390:37:45

From the 13th of September, 1868, we would know it as Tokyo.

0:37:470:37:53

It was in Tokyo where these Western aspirations

0:37:530:37:56

first took physical form,

0:37:560:37:58

and most noticeably, in architecture.

0:37:580:38:01

At the end of the 19th century,

0:38:080:38:10

European-looking buildings began to appear on the city streets.

0:38:100:38:13

The Ministry of Justice could have been transplanted from Paris.

0:38:150:38:18

And the city's neo-Baroque train station

0:38:210:38:24

seems to better belong in Amsterdam.

0:38:240:38:26

But the most striking anomaly was the Crown Prince's residence,

0:38:290:38:33

completed in 1909.

0:38:330:38:35

This is Akasaka Palace.

0:38:370:38:39

Its architect, Tokuma Katayama,

0:38:390:38:41

spent a year travelling through Europe,

0:38:410:38:43

studying the great royal residences of Germany, France and Britain.

0:38:430:38:47

And with this building, I'm sure you'll agree,

0:38:470:38:50

he's channelling the spirit of Buckingham Palace.

0:38:500:38:53

It is, if such a thing is possible, even more regal inside.

0:38:580:39:02

The grand staircase is made out of Carraran marble from Italy

0:39:050:39:09

and Languedoc marble from France.

0:39:090:39:11

And the vast state rooms upstairs are overflowing with decoration.

0:39:170:39:22

There are paintings done in the European manner.

0:39:220:39:25

And the chandeliers,

0:39:290:39:30

which each contain 7,000 pieces and weigh almost a tonne,

0:39:300:39:34

were specially shipped in from France.

0:39:340:39:36

If I were taken into this building blindfolded,

0:39:390:39:41

and not told where I was,

0:39:410:39:43

I am pretty sure I would never guess that it was in Japan.

0:39:430:39:48

Walking through this palace,

0:39:480:39:50

if anything, it feels like I'm in Versailles.

0:39:500:39:53

A strange alter ego of Versailles, but that was the point.

0:39:530:39:57

This building, and many others like it in Tokyo,

0:39:570:40:00

were part of an attempt to represent Japan as, well, a European power.

0:40:000:40:07

It was a brazen act of cultural appropriation.

0:40:070:40:10

Akasaka Palace ended up costing a huge 5.1 million yen.

0:40:120:40:17

It was deemed too extravagant even for the Crown Prince,

0:40:170:40:21

and it spent much of the 20th century uninhabited.

0:40:210:40:24

Outside the palace, Tokyo was changing in other ways.

0:40:350:40:39

A huge programme of construction and industrialization was under way.

0:40:410:40:46

Railways, trams and trunk roads transformed the fabric of the city.

0:40:460:40:51

And then it was transformed yet further

0:40:510:40:53

by a series of very Japanese disasters.

0:40:530:40:56

On the 1st of September, 1923, the Great Kanto earthquake struck Tokyo,

0:40:590:41:04

killing 142,000 people and obliterating much of the city.

0:41:040:41:09

Tokyo had barely recovered when it was torn apart again.

0:41:110:41:14

During the Second World War, the US Air Force

0:41:180:41:20

embarked on an aerial bombing campaign against Japan.

0:41:200:41:24

67 cities were targeted, 500,000 people were killed,

0:41:240:41:29

and more than half of Tokyo was destroyed.

0:41:290:41:32

As Japan rebuilt itself once again,

0:41:370:41:39

it embraced a new kind of supercharged modernity,

0:41:390:41:43

where progress with a capital P was all that mattered.

0:41:430:41:48

Between 1945 and 1963,

0:41:480:41:51

the population of Tokyo grew from 3.5 million to over 10 million,

0:41:510:41:56

as increasingly people deserted the countryside

0:41:560:41:59

and moved to the city.

0:41:590:42:01

At the same time, the nation experienced

0:42:020:42:05

unprecedented economic growth.

0:42:050:42:06

And yet, in the process of remodelling Tokyo,

0:42:080:42:10

many were left behind,

0:42:100:42:12

stuck in the cracks between the shiny developments.

0:42:120:42:15

And these cracks just about survive

0:42:190:42:22

in a small part of Shinjuku called Golden Gai.

0:42:220:42:26

Golden Gai was rebuilt after the war and soon became a world of its own,

0:42:330:42:38

a warren of alleys and bars.

0:42:380:42:40

This was the floating world of modern Tokyo,

0:42:400:42:43

a place Utamaro might have felt at home.

0:42:430:42:47

And in 1961, a modern-day Utamaro stepped into it - Daido Moriyama.

0:42:470:42:53

The founding father of Japanese street photography.

0:42:580:43:02

He was 23 when he first came to Tokyo

0:43:020:43:05

and found a day job as a camera assistant,

0:43:050:43:08

but at night, he was sucked into the darkness of Shinjuku.

0:43:080:43:12

TRANSLATION:

0:43:160:43:19

Moriyama's methods are simple.

0:43:410:43:43

He wanders up and down the streets of Shinjuku,

0:43:430:43:46

ducking into narrow alleys and dark corners, looking in every direction.

0:43:460:43:50

And as he goes,

0:43:500:43:52

he uses a small, portable camera to take snap, after snap, after snap.

0:43:520:43:56

Moriyama's early photographs

0:44:020:44:03

captured the rootless and hedonistic inhabitants

0:44:030:44:06

of Tokyo's underbelly.

0:44:060:44:08

But increasingly, he subverted his medium.

0:44:110:44:14

In 1972, in his classic work Farewell Photography,

0:44:140:44:18

his portraits of the city were so blurred, grainy

0:44:180:44:22

and uncomposed that they were almost illegible.

0:44:220:44:25

Do you find the city particularly exciting

0:44:270:44:31

at certain times of the day or night?

0:44:310:44:33

TRANSLATION:

0:44:340:44:38

If any one photograph captures Moriyama's work, it is this one,

0:46:590:47:04

made in 1971.

0:47:040:47:05

An unkempt stray dog glances back at the photographer

0:47:060:47:10

in the winter sunshine.

0:47:100:47:12

The dog is surely a proxy for Moriyama himself,

0:47:120:47:16

a loner scavenging the streets for scraps.

0:47:160:47:19

But it is also perhaps a symbol of Japan,

0:47:190:47:23

a country that hadn't yet found its identity

0:47:230:47:26

in the turbulence of the 20th century.

0:47:260:47:28

And yet, in the following years,

0:47:360:47:38

Japan raced yet further into the future.

0:47:380:47:40

The economic miracle that had begun in the 1960s

0:47:410:47:44

reached its peak in the 1980s,

0:47:440:47:47

and the country became the second largest economy in the world.

0:47:470:47:51

Tokyo was the motor of these changes,

0:47:530:47:55

and was rebuilt and redeveloped

0:47:550:47:57

at a relentless rate.

0:47:570:47:58

But though its eyes were firmly focused on the future,

0:47:590:48:02

the culture of the city remained haunted by the past.

0:48:020:48:06

In 1987, the classic anime film, Akira, was released.

0:48:140:48:18

It begins with an all-too-familiar scene -

0:48:320:48:35

Tokyo being razed to the ground.

0:48:350:48:37

The story that follows has all the necessary ingredients

0:48:450:48:48

of modern science fiction -

0:48:480:48:50

post apocalyptic dystopia, government conspiracy,

0:48:500:48:54

and children with superpowers.

0:48:540:48:56

It consists of 160,000 hand-drawn images and features 327 colours,

0:48:580:49:04

50 of which were specially created for the film.

0:49:040:49:07

But the star of the show is neo-Tokyo itself,

0:49:100:49:14

a dazzling setting for dreams and nightmares.

0:49:140:49:17

In the following year,

0:49:210:49:22

another film revisited the wartime destruction of Japan's cities.

0:49:220:49:26

Grave Of The Fireflies is a landmark in animation history.

0:49:330:49:37

It tells the tragic story of two siblings' struggle to survive

0:49:370:49:41

during the final months of the Second World War.

0:49:410:49:43

The film was directed by Isao Takahata,

0:49:490:49:52

one of the co-founders of Studio Ghibli,

0:49:520:49:55

and it drew on his own memories of the war.

0:49:550:49:57

TRANSLATION:

0:50:010:50:04

Now in his eighties,

0:51:420:51:43

Takahata has published a book about the connection

0:51:430:51:46

between the sequential art of early Japanese hand scrolls

0:51:460:51:49

and anime, which he sees as belonging

0:51:490:51:52

to the same narrative art tradition.

0:51:520:51:54

Wow.

0:51:560:51:57

So, this is a fire tearing down the city?

0:51:590:52:02

TRANSLATION:

0:52:040:52:06

When you look at a scroll like this,

0:52:200:52:22

do you feel like you're looking at the work

0:52:220:52:24

of people in the same business as you?

0:52:240:52:26

The great anime films were just part of a broader blossoming

0:52:530:52:57

of Japan's creative industries,

0:52:570:52:59

which were born out of distinctly Japanese urban experiences,

0:52:590:53:03

but spoke to the wider world.

0:53:030:53:05

Since the 1980s, Japan, and Tokyo in particular,

0:53:090:53:12

has become a creative hub for food, fashion, film, consumer electronics,

0:53:120:53:19

computer games and many other forms of popular culture.

0:53:190:53:22

Take a pick of a recent craze or fad -

0:53:220:53:25

it's likely to have originated here.

0:53:250:53:27

Tokyo's designers have, together, challenged Paris

0:53:330:53:36

as a world leader in fashion.

0:53:360:53:38

Lifestyle brands have tackled the problems of urban living

0:53:430:53:46

and gone on to conquer the world.

0:53:460:53:48

And its pop culture has attracted millions of fans

0:53:540:53:57

and built a vast, international audience.

0:53:570:54:00

In many of these areas,

0:54:040:54:05

the great city of Tokyo absorbed the most modern fashions,

0:54:050:54:09

remade them in thrilling ways,

0:54:090:54:11

and then exported them back to the world.

0:54:110:54:13

This dizzying, high-speed,

0:54:170:54:19

urban aesthetic has also influenced Japan's artists.

0:54:190:54:23

They have derived inspiration from the city,

0:54:280:54:31

and from the popular culture it produced.

0:54:310:54:33

But of all of them, none better captures the zeitgeist

0:54:360:54:40

than an 87-year-old woman called Yayoi Kusama.

0:54:400:54:44

TRANSLATION:

0:54:440:54:48

Kusama has been creating her own brand of pop art since the 1960s,

0:55:020:55:07

resulting in a psychedelic array of popular,

0:55:070:55:10

but deeply personal imagery.

0:55:100:55:12

But Kusama's most celebrated installations

0:55:220:55:25

are her mirror rooms...

0:55:250:55:27

..small, dark chambers covered on all sides in reflective surfaces...

0:55:280:55:33

..illuminated only by twinkling LEDs

0:55:340:55:38

and transformed into infinite indoor galaxies.

0:55:380:55:42

You can understand why this art has delighted people around the world.

0:55:430:55:49

It's like... I don't know,

0:55:490:55:51

it's almost like falling into a kaleidoscope,

0:55:510:55:53

or stepping onto a sci-fi stage set.

0:55:530:55:57

But you know what, more than anything else,

0:55:570:55:59

this piece reminds me of?

0:55:590:56:01

It reminds me of the city.

0:56:010:56:04

It reminds me of an almost infinite metropolis,

0:56:040:56:07

glittering away in the night.

0:56:070:56:09

Over the centuries, cities have inspired

0:56:190:56:22

some of Japan's greatest art,

0:56:220:56:24

but they are, themselves, creations,

0:56:240:56:27

dynamic, complex and often beautiful.

0:56:270:56:30

This is a story of Japan's urban imagination

0:56:320:56:35

and how three great cities built its art and culture.

0:56:350:56:39

In Kyoto, the Japanese mastered beauty and elegance.

0:56:430:56:47

In Edo, they found their own, often mischievous, voice.

0:56:490:56:52

And in Tokyo, they turned destruction into creation.

0:56:560:56:59

And in the process,

0:57:010:57:02

they helped define a country as it relentlessly searched for itself.

0:57:020:57:06

Cities are engines of cultural change

0:57:100:57:14

because they throw people together,

0:57:140:57:16

to compete and collaborate and innovate.

0:57:160:57:20

It's the case around the world, of course,

0:57:200:57:22

but I can't think of many countries

0:57:220:57:24

that are more defined by their cities than Japan.

0:57:240:57:27

In the final episode,

0:57:400:57:41

I'll be venturing into the most intimate spaces in Japan -

0:57:410:57:45

its homes.

0:57:450:57:46

I'll explore how, in Japan, the house became a work of art.

0:57:480:57:52

Guided by the spirit of the craftsmen who made it,

0:57:520:57:55

and the rich traditions that developed within its walls,

0:57:550:57:58

the Japanese house went on to transform our lives in the West.

0:57:580:58:02

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