St Petersburg Brian Cox's Russia


St Petersburg

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It's 100 years since the Russian Revolution

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and it all started here.

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And it cut off Russia from the world for nearly 70 years.

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But new DNA evidence suggests that one in every 600 Russians

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has Scottish ancestry.

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I'm discovering Scots who made a massive impact on Russia's history.

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Some made the former empire their home

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and others fought and died there.

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From those who helped to establish Russian football...

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..to those like me who came to Russia

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at a crucial time in their life,

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they found Russia beautiful, captivating

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and quite exasperating.

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This is from Scotland to Russia, with love.

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HE SPEAKS RUSSIAN

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Last time, I was in Moscow,

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following Scots before me who had made the capital their own.

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I marched in the footsteps of the Scot who was

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the highest ranking general in the Russian army...

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..discovered the spy behind James Bond...

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..and the believer that never made it here.

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-He was regarded as the most dangerous man in Britain.

-Right.

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He was the man who could cause a revolution.

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'I even managed to get into the heart of the Kremlin.'

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It's...

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gobsmackingly beautiful.

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Now I'm in St Petersburg, one of the most beautiful cities in the world...

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..Venice of the North, and Russia's cultural capital.

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For many Scots, this imperial city would become their home.

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'I first came here to work in the 1990s.'

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Grushko.

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How do you know it's ours?

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'I was making a series about a melancholic Russian detective

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'struggling to cope with the pace of change.'

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'It perfectly matched my own state of mind.

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'My career had taken off,

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'yet I was divorced and in the middle of a midlife crisis.'

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I brought my daughter, Margaret, here, aged 12,

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probably scared I'd lose her.

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It was when he took custody, more or less, or tried to.

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You decided to kind of try and bring me,

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have time with me and bring me up on your own in your own way.

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It was a difficult time. I mean, I'd been in America,

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I'd made Manhunter, I'd been a big success,

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and her mum, I think, had had enough.

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Her mum had just, you know, just given me the red card and said,

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"You're off the field."

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And, uh...

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I sort of went off with my tail in between my legs,

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-and it was difficult.

-You said to her,

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"I'm a train, you can get on when you like and get off when you like."

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-Did I say that?!

-Yeah.

-Oh, God!

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"I'm a train, Caroline,

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"you can get on whenever you want and get off whenever you like."

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She got off the train.

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Since then, St Petersburg has become Margaret's second home.

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Tell me, what is it, what is it

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about this place that gets under your skin?

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Well, I studied here, and the summer is incredibly full of lovers.

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The city is full of young girls and young boys in love.

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Because it's all night long, too. It's 24-hour daylight.

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I mean, I didn't want to say this cos you're my father,

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but I remember going, I mean,

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I would meet boys I knew on Palace Square at

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one or two in the morning

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and it would just be, like, them on bicycles

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and us riding on the handlebars all night long.

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A lot of the time, of course, we were drunk,

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but we didn't know what time of day it was or anything.

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And it's magic, it's a magic hour and it is fairy tale.

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Romance runs deep through the Russian soul.

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So it's rather fitting that our first story involves an empress

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who fell in love with her Scottish architect.

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Tsarskoye Selo,

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Catherine the Great's Palace.

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Absolutely jaw-droppingly stunning, even on a grey day like this.

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It's like a...

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It's like a wedding cake.

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Amazing.

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Catherine the Great wanted to update her ancestral palace.

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Inspired by ancient Rome,

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she combed the world for someone who shared her passion.

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The man she found would go on to create a palace

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full of exquisite rooms like this,

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the Arabesque Hall.

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In 1779, Charles Cameron arrived in St Petersburg.

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When Catherine the Great introduced him, she said,

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"At present I am employing Mr Cameron,

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"Scottish of nationality, nobility, practising Jacobite,

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"a great draughtsman, nurtured by antiquities,

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"known by his book on the Roman baths."

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Now Cameron was neither noble nor a Jacobite.

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Nevertheless, he would become more dear to her

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than she could possibly imagine.

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The iconography that they would intimately create together

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would become the iconography for the Russian Empire.

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Architect Charles Cameron had published a book on Roman bathhouses.

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In it, drawings showed classical motifs of the Greek

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and Roman emperors, and the empress loved it.

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It got him the job and brought him over to Russia.

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Appointed the architect of her Imperial Majesty,

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Cameron immediately set to work

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reimagining a palace fit for the empress.

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Cameron needed skilled workers to build these massive structures.

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Now, there was a serious problem.

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The Russian workers he found just didn't know enough about the materials.

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And not only that, he complained that they drank.

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So in 1784,

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Cameron took out an advert in an Edinburgh paper

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looking for specialist craftsmen.

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In May of the same year, 76 masons, smiths,

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bricklayers and plasterers travelled from Scotland to St Petersburg.

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From the Blue Drawing Room to the Green Dining Room, a snuff room.

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From the bedchamber to churches and temples.

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The work went on and on here and elsewhere for nearly 30 years.

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Taking up the story is the palace's curator.

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So...

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Our Cameron...

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He doesn't look very happy.

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TRANSLATED FROM RUSSIAN:

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Ah, a little bit in love with him.

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A wonderfully ceremonial staircase links the bathhouse to

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the empress's personal quarters.

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So this was originally white marble, was it?

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I've never seen such a staircase.

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It's beautiful. And I can see her coming down, you know,

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I can visualise Catherine descending.

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Yeah.

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Catherine the Great's private library was on the top floor

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and one of her favourite retreats,

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the wing known as the Agate Pavilion.

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-Can you give me a hand with these, somebody?

-Ugly shoes.

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Ugly, ugly, ugly.

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OK, I'm in.

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Tell me, Irina, so tell me about this magnificent room,

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what was this? Was this a reception hall?

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Ah, so this is a Roman room? Of course it is.

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Yes.

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'This is the Great Hall.'

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Cameron painted walls to look like marble

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and created a ceiling of frescoes.

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He introduced non-native wood to create intricate parquet flooring

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and had the room lit by sculptures bearing foliage, candelabras -

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a potpourri of styles.

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There is a kind of extraordinary aesthetic at work in this room,

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and you can see it, it's just magnificent.

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So it puts Cameron,

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for me it puts Cameron in a completely different light from before,

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not just an architect, but actually an interior designer,

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with such a magnificent eye.

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And it was that,

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it was precisely that talent that Catherine recognised

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and that Catherine wanted.

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She wanted it, that's why they were so close

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because his aesthetic matched her own.

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Oh! These bloody shoes!

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Mind you, the one thing about these shoes,

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they're very handy for polishing the parquet.

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You can polish the parquet as you go.

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Definitely.

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Two years later,

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Cameron was asked to create a private esplanade

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complete with busts of the empress's favourite philosophers.

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And in the ultimate complement, it was named the Cameron Gallery.

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Cameron spent the rest of his life in Russia, but as tastes changed,

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he failed to adapt.

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The Scot who came to St Petersburg

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to build Catherine the Great's architectural dream

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died 33 years later designing a naval barracks.

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Yet Catherine the Great's Scottish relationships went far beyond architecture.

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It's enough to make any man want to relax.

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And Catherine had a special place in her heart for the Scots.

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Her private banker, her doctor, her architect, wet-nurse, nannies,

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even the military, all were Scots.

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In fact, you could say the Scots were becoming quite trendy in her empire.

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But since I'm near naked,

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I'll tell you a fun story about a canny lad from Scotland

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who saw a completely different side of her.

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Catherine was what many people might call a sensuous person.

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Others have been less kind,

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noting that her sexual voracity was notorious.

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In other words, she was a wee bit of a goer.

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Fitting in nicely to this scene was a Scottish schoolmaster,

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William Porter.

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Born in 1741,

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he was brought over by Catherine the Great to help reform the education system.

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What is less known is that he brought over the sex club known as

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The Beggar's Benison for local aristocrats.

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Members chanted the words of the Highland march as the orgies began.

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"In the garb of old Gaul with the fire of old Rome...

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"..from the heath-covered mountains of Scotia we come.

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"Where the Romans endeavoured our country to gain,

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"but our ancestors fought,

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"and they fought not in vain."

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And it was all in the name of carnal pleasure.

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Beat me, beat me, call me a Dundonian.

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Porter invented a complex set of phallic rituals and initiations

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with members from the British expat community.

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Rubbing more than shoulders with merchants and aristocracy,

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all using their private sign for uprightedness.

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Little else is known about the club or Porter.

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Both seem to have disappeared almost as quickly as they appeared,

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or perhaps they didn't and perhaps that The Beggar's Benison

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continued below the radar. Who knows?

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But what is known is that on his death,

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Porter's obituary belied the man who, above all else, championed

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the Scottish phallus in Russia.

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Oh, boy, I could just sleep after all that, I tell you.

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In fact, I think I will.

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From sex to religion.

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Back in Edinburgh,

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I'm meeting my friend, Scottish writer and broadcaster Billy Kay.

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I'm about to find out about a small group of Scottish missionaries

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who set off to Russia armed with the word of God.

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So, Billy, what is it we have here?

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Well, this is a map of the vast Russian Empire

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and you've got Scottish influences right across it, from very early on,

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from St Petersburg and the merchant community there

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to the Shkot Peninsula near Vladivostok, a place called Shkotova.

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Scottish influences right over the area,

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but the principal area associated with Scottish religion effort

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-is down here in the Caucasus.

-Right.

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That borderland that's now Chechnya and places like that.

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The Tsar decided to give the Edinburgh Missionary Society

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18,000 acres in an area called Karas,

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near the spa town of Pyatigorsk,

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just north of the Caucasus Mountains,

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which was hostile to Russia then

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and a bit further south is hostile to Russia to this day.

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-So the idea of converting...

-And that was Muslim-dominated?

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It was Muslim. This was historically a Muslim area.

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So the idea of trying to convert Muslims

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was quite an outrageous proposition.

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These Scots missionaries thought they were up to the task,

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they thought, "Here we go."

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They were, and they had a religious fervour and zeal

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that you could see goes back to the time when this kirk was built.

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At the beginning of the 19th century,

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the Caucasus were wild and untamed,

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and it was here that Henry Brunton set up his Scottish colony.

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It lasted only about 30 years,

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they only converted approximately nine hardy souls.

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But they bought out of slavery a lot of children from

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the local Tatar Turkish tribes.

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How did they convert the Bible into Tatar?

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I mean, because they probably didn't have any knowledge of Tatar,

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but they obviously had somebody who was able to speak both languages.

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It was Henry Brunton there and the man Swan from Fife,

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and apparently Brunton's translation was a mixture of classic Turkish language,

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but taking in the local dialects of the Tatar language,

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-just creating it himself.

-It's astonishing.

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I mean, it's an achievement, it's quite astonishing.

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To what end, you go, "What is the point?"

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But the actual scholarship is remarkable.

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Exactly. That's the remarkable thing.

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Henry Brunton's mission failed.

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The locals remained resolutely Muslim.

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He died in the Caucasus in 1813.

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One remarkable thing was although the colony died,

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40 years after its failure,

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a journalist from The Times, Mackenzie Wallace,

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a Scot, went through the area.

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And he noticed written on the map, "Shotlandskaya koloniya",

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Scottish colony.

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-This was here?

-This was here, down here, near Pyatigorsk.

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And he decided, "I've got to go and see what this is."

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And he went there and he says in Russian, "Are there any Scots here?"

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And Mackenzie Wallace says something like,

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"Imagine my astonishment when the man replied in broad Scots,

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" "Ach, man, I'm a Scot tae!" "

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I mean, these links are quite important, aren't they?

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They're a bit like Mormons in the '50s.

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I remember the Mormons in the '50s coming round the houses in Dundee,

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you know, doing big conversions, trying to convert.

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Well, I think that zeal has always been at the heart of

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everything the Scots do, we do with a passion.

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-Yeah.

-And we'll just breenge into things with a heart and soul.

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And I think that's, despite what was against them,

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that's what these missionaries had.

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It's a curious tale that speaks of a very different time.

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Like the Scots before me, it was work that brought me here.

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But looking back at my career,

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I hadn't realised just how many Russian parts I've played over

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the last 50 years.

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Today, I'm giving a masterclass to Russia's next generation of film-makers.

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I always had this strong connection with Russia, and my daughter,

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who is here today, blames me for her having to learn Russian.

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APPLAUSE

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Thank you.

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PROJECTOR: They've marched 1,000 miles, but are in excellent shape.

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'War and Peace was the BBC adaptation of Tolstoy's epic Russian novel.'

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And that's where we'll stop Napoleon in his tracks, God willing.

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'I played General Kutuzov,

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'the one-eyed defender of Moscow who defeated Napoleon.'

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Napoleon has left Russia, your Grace.

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We have our victory.

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Nothing left to do.

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Russia is saved.

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Thank the Lord.

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'It was an honour to play this hero,

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'and it's great to hear the series was so well received here in Russia.'

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'Here I play a KGB general with Bruce Willis.'

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I have many times dreamed of killing you.

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But now...

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'Willis is a former CIA adversary

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'on the run.'

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You are...

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..pensioner.

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A couple of years now.

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'It gave me a chance to say one of my favourite villainous lines.'

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I haven't killed anyone in years.

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That's sad.

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To Igor,

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the butcher.

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He's not dead.

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'Whilst the world looked on with a mixture of happiness and disbelief

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'at the end of the Soviet Union...'

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HE SPEAKS RUSSIAN

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'..I was playing a Russian colonel on an international space station.'

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We've had some good fortune at Cruise McKinney number three.

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A dead man - accident, whatever.

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'There's been a murder.'

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The Cold War was ending and here in space,

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the film showed the Americans and Russians beginning to work together.

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All right, where is he?

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Mr Huff is available for Colonel Voronov now.

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If you do not make your company records available immediately,

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then your lease to operate in Soviet territory

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-will be cancelled immediately.

-What?

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You have two hours to comply.

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'Some 20 years ago, I played a dodgy Russian with Michael York.'

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I'd like you to meet Anatole.

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The film explored the sexual possibilities of

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the new business order.

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I have not had a chance to clean things very much since I... I mean,

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since we bought factory.

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Relax, nephew. Relax.

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Anatole just come look, check investment.

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'I think I might have aged a wee bit better than this film has.'

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Looks OK.

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Da.

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The film that launched me was a Hollywood movie about

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the fall of the Romanovs, Nicholas and Alexandra.

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-I wish we didn't have to go.

-It's Mama's birthday.

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'I'm still proud of this one.'

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My role was at the very heart of the tragedy.

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-PROJECTOR:

-This must be some of your nonsense, Trotsky.

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Lenin's theory comes to this.

0:24:140:24:15

'I played Leon Trotsky,

0:24:170:24:19

'the man who helped ignite the Bolshevik revolution.'

0:24:190:24:22

-You will print it.

-I can't.

0:24:220:24:24

The style's atrocious.

0:24:250:24:27

So that was my start in movies.

0:24:270:24:30

And so there was my initial Russian connection.

0:24:300:24:34

'One of the most important scenes is when we, the Bolsheviks,

0:24:360:24:39

'prepare to launch our attack.'

0:24:390:24:42

State bank.

0:24:420:24:44

Central telephone exchange.

0:24:440:24:45

This is where the revolution started.

0:24:580:25:00

The Winter Palace had long been the official residence of

0:25:000:25:03

the imperial family.

0:25:030:25:05

It also contains one of the world's most important art galleries.

0:25:060:25:10

The Hermitage.

0:25:100:25:12

And it was here at 2:10am

0:25:140:25:17

on October the 25th, 1917,

0:25:170:25:21

that Russia became a communist country.

0:25:210:25:23

As the Bolsheviks stormed the palace, one eyewitness wrote,

0:25:330:25:37

"Like a black river filling all the street,

0:25:370:25:39

"without song or cheer, we poured through."

0:25:390:25:43

The Bolsheviks came through that archway, they came through here,

0:25:430:25:47

up through this area here and then up this staircase.

0:25:470:25:52

Seven months before,

0:25:560:25:58

a revolt had resulted in the abdication of Tsar Nicholas II.

0:25:580:26:02

A provisional government occupied the palace,

0:26:020:26:05

but there they were threatened by continual infighting,

0:26:050:26:08

chronic food shortages and a collapsing army.

0:26:080:26:11

Vladimir Lenin and Leon Trotsky led the Bolsheviks to overthrow them.

0:26:130:26:17

Incredibly, a Scottish artist,

0:26:200:26:23

Christina Robertson, is part of this story.

0:26:230:26:26

To find out more, I am meeting curator Lisa Renne.

0:26:270:26:31

All these revolutionary soldiers came, you know,

0:26:320:26:39

-and they damaged the painting.

-Oh.

0:26:390:26:41

It was cut with a sword.

0:26:410:26:45

It was.. They damaged it with rifles.

0:26:450:26:49

Of course the revolution was against the Tsars, you know,

0:26:490:26:53

and it was an item of one of the Tsars.

0:26:530:26:55

So you could never guess it because it was restored with our wonderful restorers.

0:26:560:27:02

There was a cut there, yeah.

0:27:020:27:05

It's like they deliberately tried to decapitate her.

0:27:050:27:08

Poor Alexandra Feodorovna got the full might of the Bolshevik.

0:27:080:27:13

This was just one of the many paintings the Bolsheviks targeted

0:27:150:27:18

as they stormed the palace.

0:27:180:27:20

Christina Robertson was a successful society portrait painter in Paris.

0:27:220:27:28

Tsar Nicholas I persuaded her to come to Russia and paint his family.

0:27:280:27:34

She moved here aged 43.

0:27:340:27:37

It's a very romantic story.

0:27:370:27:40

For a woman, coming so far

0:27:400:27:43

from Fife, from Edinburgh to St Petersburg.

0:27:430:27:47

But she was married, she had children, didn't she?

0:27:470:27:49

She married in 1822 and she had eight children,

0:27:490:27:55

and just four survived to adulthood.

0:27:550:27:59

So she lost four children.

0:27:590:28:01

Christina Robertson would never return home, dying here in 1854.

0:28:010:28:07

Do we know if she was estranged from her family because her family

0:28:070:28:10

-wasn't with her when she died?

-It's a bit of a mystery.

0:28:100:28:12

We don't know anything about her husband.

0:28:120:28:15

I think she was not very lucky with the marriage.

0:28:150:28:18

Dobryy vecher, dobryy vecher.

0:28:180:28:20

Dobroye utro!

0:28:200:28:22

Dobroye utro, dobroye utro. Sorry! Not dobryy vecher.

0:28:220:28:25

Dobryy vecher is goodnight. Sorry. Sorry, Lisa!

0:28:250:28:29

My Russian is very rough.

0:28:290:28:31

Dobroye utro.

0:28:310:28:33

To return to Christina Robertson - I mean, this is astonishing to me -

0:28:330:28:38

that the posing of these women,

0:28:380:28:43

there's something...

0:28:430:28:44

I don't know what it is,

0:28:470:28:48

there's something kind of doll-like about them in a way.

0:28:480:28:52

-What is it?

-That's right, yes.

0:28:520:28:55

I think it's a combination of

0:28:550:28:58

the taste of the time and also of the lack of anatomy,

0:28:580:29:03

which women artists possibly did not

0:29:030:29:07

know about because they had no classes.

0:29:070:29:09

Or even encouraged to know about.

0:29:090:29:11

Yes. Well, absolutely.

0:29:110:29:14

There is another of Christina's paintings I want to see.

0:29:150:29:18

Now this is beautiful.

0:29:200:29:22

-It is.

-That's exquisite.

0:29:220:29:24

I think she developed, of course, a style.

0:29:240:29:27

Incredibly. But see the same sort of wistful look on the girl's face,

0:29:270:29:32

that same head to one side.

0:29:320:29:34

This, I love this painting.

0:29:340:29:36

-It's a lovely painting.

-I absolutely love that painting.

0:29:360:29:39

-And I love the parrot with the cherries in the mouth.

-Yes.

0:29:390:29:43

And it tells the story of a brother and sister,

0:29:440:29:47

and we've no idea who these people are, have we?

0:29:470:29:50

Well, regretfully we don't know the names, we don't know who they are.

0:29:500:29:53

But, of course, the circle was not quite big.

0:29:530:29:56

It's aristocracy children, of course.

0:29:560:29:58

They came from some aristocracy family.

0:29:580:30:00

Whether these children survived the revolution, we will never know.

0:30:020:30:06

Determined to overthrow the bourgeoisie,

0:30:090:30:13

the Bolshevik leaders orchestrated looting of all symbols of power.

0:30:130:30:17

Russia faced cultural upheaval, violence and turmoil,

0:30:190:30:23

as a civil war erupted.

0:30:230:30:25

In 1924, Josef Stalin became the new leader of the Soviet Union.

0:30:320:30:37

He brought rapid industrialisation,

0:30:390:30:41

created massive state farms and eventually a reign of terror.

0:30:410:30:47

But in Stalin's Russia,

0:30:520:30:54

a Scottish poet became a poster boy for the workers' struggle.

0:30:540:30:58

And where better to pick up on that

0:31:010:31:03

than St Petersburg's most famous book shop, Dom Knigi,

0:31:030:31:08

where they make the finest latte this side of the Neva.

0:31:080:31:11

During the 19th century,

0:31:140:31:16

Robert Burns was admired in Russian intellectual circles as

0:31:160:31:19

the people's champion. Post-Revolutionary Russia,

0:31:190:31:23

interest in our national bard rocketed,

0:31:230:31:26

and it's all thanks to one man.

0:31:260:31:29

In 1924,

0:31:290:31:31

the Russian poet Samuil Marshak translated Burns

0:31:310:31:35

and in over a year he sold 600,000 copies.

0:31:350:31:41

It was a mammoth feat,

0:31:410:31:43

but one that cemented Burns into the psyche of every Russian.

0:31:430:31:47

But Marshak was a shrewd operator.

0:31:480:31:51

Burns' writing was endorsed by successive Soviet regimes

0:31:510:31:56

and only because something was missing.

0:31:560:31:59

Sex.

0:32:000:32:02

Now Stalin was known to be quite prudish

0:32:040:32:08

and had an aversion to raunchy western writers.

0:32:080:32:11

Marshak pushed Burns the people's poet as an idea,

0:32:110:32:17

and one of peasant virtue, which Stalin...

0:32:170:32:21

..seemed to buy into.

0:32:220:32:24

Burns would never make it over to Russia, but his writing has,

0:32:300:32:35

and it shows no signs of fading away.

0:32:350:32:38

Even today in schools throughout Russia,

0:32:440:32:47

children can recite the poems of Robert Burns.

0:32:470:32:51

Every year in June there is a Scottish delegation celebrates

0:32:510:32:54

the birthday of Robert Burns in St Petersburg.

0:32:540:32:57

We are getting ready for the performance called

0:32:570:33:00

For The Immortal Memory Of Robert Burns.

0:33:000:33:02

"Gin a body meet a body, Comin thro' the rye,

0:33:050:33:08

"Gin a body kiss a body, Need a body cry?"

0:33:080:33:11

"O, Jenny's a' weet, poor body, Jenny's seldom dry:

0:33:110:33:15

"She draigl't a' her petticoatie, Comin thro' the rye!"

0:33:150:33:19

THEY SPEAK RUSSIAN

0:33:190:33:25

THEY SPEAK RUSSIAN

0:33:300:33:36

SHE SPEAKS RUSSIAN

0:33:370:33:40

"As fair art thou, my bonnie lass, So deep in luve am I:

0:33:410:33:47

"And I will luve thee still, my dear, Till a' the seas gang dry:

0:33:470:33:51

"Till a' the seas gang dry, my dear."

0:33:510:33:54

As for Marshak, as he was dying,

0:33:560:33:58

he requested that his badge as honorary president of

0:33:580:34:01

the Burns Federation be laid with him.

0:34:010:34:04

Under Stalin, this beautiful city had its name changed to Leningrad

0:34:080:34:13

in honour of the man who led the Bolshevik revolution.

0:34:130:34:16

But during World War II, its very existence was under threat.

0:34:180:34:22

Partly due to its historical significance

0:34:250:34:27

and industrial importance,

0:34:270:34:29

on the 8th of July, 1941, German troops began surrounding the city.

0:34:290:34:34

Held at bay by fortifications,

0:34:370:34:39

Hitler decided to strangle the city to death.

0:34:390:34:41

Aerial bombardment set fire to warehouses...

0:34:450:34:48

..which held food supplies.

0:34:490:34:52

Around three million citizens were now trapped in

0:34:570:35:00

the middle of a blockade.

0:35:000:35:02

The Siege of Leningrad had begun.

0:35:020:35:04

Around the world the news of the siege spread.

0:35:080:35:11

In the Scottish mining heartlands of Airdrie, a communist collective,

0:35:110:35:16

the Russia Today Society, met in the front room of a council flat.

0:35:160:35:21

One member, Harry Walker, recorded what happened.

0:35:210:35:25

This is what he said. "All the women were deeply affected

0:35:250:35:29

"by what they'd been hearing about Leningrad.

0:35:290:35:32

"They were desperately anxious to do something,

0:35:320:35:34

"to feel part of the vast struggle that was taking place."

0:35:340:35:38

Within weeks of the siege beginning,

0:35:410:35:43

they would send an extraordinary gift in comradely support.

0:35:430:35:46

That gift is kept here, in the Peter and Paul Fortress,

0:35:490:35:53

in the heart of Leningrad, now St Petersburg.

0:35:530:35:56

So in the steel manufacturing towns of Airdrie and Coatbridge,

0:35:570:36:04

the ordinary working men and women started raising funds,

0:36:040:36:09

and on top of that they created this...

0:36:090:36:13

magnificent book.

0:36:130:36:15

"To the heroic women of Leningrad.

0:36:200:36:23

"Our hearts go out to you in this,

0:36:250:36:27

"your hour of supreme agony and trial.

0:36:270:36:30

"Your fight is our fight and we shall fight with you."

0:36:300:36:34

It says here,

0:36:360:36:37

"Women from all sections of the community have signed this letter,

0:36:370:36:40

"the Provost's wife, wives of the councillors,

0:36:400:36:44

"business and professional men, housewives,

0:36:440:36:46

"professional and businesswomen, industrial workers.

0:36:460:36:50

"We realise humanity's debt of gratitude to the women of Russia."

0:36:500:36:55

And then the book has all the names of the women who signed.

0:36:560:37:01

"Jean Lockhart,

0:37:030:37:06

"Agnes Graham, Margaret Drummond, AN Fleming,

0:37:060:37:11

"A Kirkland.

0:37:110:37:13

"Betty Wright, Agnes Clark,

0:37:140:37:16

"Cecilia Beattie."

0:37:180:37:19

This is really, really astonishing.

0:37:210:37:24

And incredibly heartening that these women,

0:37:240:37:28

you know, these were simple women from Airdrie, from Coatbridge, who

0:37:280:37:32

didn't even know probably what St Petersburg looks like,

0:37:320:37:35

then it was Leningrad.

0:37:350:37:37

And they even put pictures of the town, the Royal Burgh.

0:37:390:37:43

Oh, this is beautiful.

0:37:460:37:48

Something like this defies words.

0:37:550:37:58

It's beyond language because it's so incredibly expressive in itself.

0:37:580:38:02

They've even gone to the trouble to have something translated into Russian,

0:38:070:38:11

and this is from the Albert Street Congregational Church in Coatbridge

0:38:110:38:16

and it just says, you know,

0:38:160:38:18

"We are with you in your epic struggle.

0:38:180:38:20

"You have our total support."

0:38:210:38:23

I wonder what the people of Leningrad made of this.

0:38:280:38:31

From people that they didn't know,

0:38:310:38:33

from a place they'd probably never even heard of,

0:38:330:38:37

Airdrie and Coatbridge.

0:38:370:38:39

The coldest winter in decades began.

0:38:520:38:54

Daily rations reduced to a thick slice of bread a day,

0:38:540:38:58

and people began to starve.

0:38:580:39:00

Within the first year alone, 600,000 people died,

0:39:060:39:11

and still there was no end in sight.

0:39:110:39:14

Today, my daughter, Margaret, and I are meeting three veterans

0:39:220:39:26

who were young children during the siege.

0:39:260:39:29

Ladies and gentlemen,

0:39:290:39:31

I would just like to start by saying this is an incredible honour

0:39:310:39:36

to be speaking to you,

0:39:360:39:39

who have survived probably one of the most horrendous acts of

0:39:390:39:44

the 20th century. And what I want to know is,

0:39:440:39:47

what is it like for you to look at those memories?

0:39:470:39:51

You know, because most people have memories of childhood.

0:39:510:39:54

Nobody has such unique memories as you people here from Leningrad have,

0:39:540:39:59

during that blockade.

0:39:590:40:01

Valentina said that she remember everything.

0:40:130:40:16

They go to the shop, to the bakery, to get bread.

0:40:160:40:20

Only 125g per day.

0:40:200:40:24

Sergei?

0:40:360:40:37

-Four out of 15 people survived?

-Yes.

-In one winter.

0:41:030:41:07

She was dead. She was dead for two weeks.

0:41:330:41:36

-Throw it out the window?

-Yes.

0:41:510:41:53

So, Tamara.

0:41:570:41:59

Valentina?

0:42:210:42:22

But looking back on that time...

0:43:000:43:02

..you must think, "How did I survive?"

0:43:040:43:06

That's astonishing.

0:43:240:43:26

Wow!

0:43:510:43:53

So they took the table apart and took the glue off the table

0:43:570:44:01

and melted the glue off the table,

0:44:010:44:04

-boiled the glue and ate the glue.

-Yes.

0:44:040:44:07

This is your mother.

0:44:210:44:22

My mother after the war.

0:44:230:44:25

This is Valentina. Very beautiful.

0:44:300:44:33

This has been such an honour and such a privilege to listen to you,

0:44:350:44:38

and very humbling, really.

0:44:380:44:42

I'm incredibly moved

0:44:420:44:46

and incredibly humbled by this extraordinary experience you've had.

0:44:460:44:50

Thank you so much for sharing it with me,

0:44:500:44:52

and sharing it with, hopefully, the people in Scotland.

0:44:520:44:55

I mean, above all,

0:44:560:44:58

talking to these three extraordinary human beings

0:44:580:45:02

who do not see themselves in any way as extraordinary

0:45:020:45:05

but, really, as rather ordinary.

0:45:050:45:08

And the thing that comes out is, I don't know if you agree with this,

0:45:080:45:11

Margaret, is a tremendous affirmation of the human spirit.

0:45:110:45:16

As the war raged, one Russian journalist wrote,

0:45:180:45:22

"The city is dead, no streetcars.

0:45:220:45:26

"Almost the only transport is sleds carrying corpses covered with rags,

0:45:260:45:31

"or half clothed."

0:45:310:45:33

Daily, 6,000 to 8,000 die.

0:45:370:45:40

Against all that,

0:45:550:45:56

just seven months after the book from the ladies of Airdrie

0:45:560:46:00

and Coatbridge arrived here, an album was smuggled to Scotland.

0:46:000:46:04

The album contained watercolours by the Soviet artist

0:46:070:46:11

Anna Ostroumova-Lebedeva.

0:46:110:46:13

And despite the blockade circling the city...

0:46:150:46:19

..over 6,000 women signed this...

0:46:200:46:23

..still suffering from hunger and weakness.

0:46:250:46:27

And the book now sits in the Mitchell Library in Glasgow.

0:46:270:46:32

This is the actual book that the women of Leningrad sent,

0:46:410:46:48

and this is what they said.

0:46:480:46:49

"To our dear friends, the women of Airdrie and Coatbridge...

0:46:500:46:55

"..we have been moved to the depth of our soul by the words of love

0:46:570:47:00

"and greeting from those of you in far off Scotland.

0:47:000:47:04

"We thank you for the help you've given us in the struggle with Hitler's Germany.

0:47:040:47:09

"Our husbands and brothers are cut off from us,

0:47:090:47:12

"our homes are in danger,

0:47:120:47:14

"our children doomed to destruction and bondage."

0:47:140:47:18

And it is equally remarkable that 6,000 women sent this book.

0:47:240:47:29

It's so beautifully put together, this book.

0:47:310:47:35

And these...

0:47:350:47:37

That's Leningrad,

0:47:390:47:40

and this, with these wonderful, wonderful watercolours,

0:47:400:47:44

if you can see here, beautiful.

0:47:440:47:48

Absolutely beautiful.

0:47:480:47:49

And this is Vera Milyutina, who put the whole thing together.

0:47:520:47:58

It's very potent.

0:48:000:48:02

And the care, I mean,

0:48:030:48:05

these are an example of the signatures of the women.

0:48:050:48:10

That's their signatures,

0:48:100:48:11

and these are professions, secretaries, nurses.

0:48:110:48:14

And that's them.

0:48:160:48:17

Incredible testament, it really is.

0:48:190:48:22

So the women at work - nurses.

0:48:280:48:31

And, of course, the one thing we don't know,

0:48:330:48:36

with all these signatures,

0:48:360:48:39

we don't know how many, if any,

0:48:390:48:43

made it through to the end of the blockade.

0:48:430:48:46

On the 20th of January, 1944...

0:48:560:48:59

..the siege of Leningrad finally came to an end

0:49:000:49:03

after nearly 900 days.

0:49:030:49:05

It remains the deadliest blockade of a city in human history,

0:49:070:49:11

causing the death of more than a million citizens.

0:49:110:49:13

People in the streets wept for joy, life had become valuable once again.

0:49:150:49:21

Our last story is a subject about which both Russians

0:49:260:49:31

and Scots care passionately, and even sometimes obsessively.

0:49:310:49:36

Football.

0:49:360:49:37

Next year, Russia will host the World Cup.

0:49:410:49:44

Thousands of fans will flock into 11 cities,

0:49:440:49:47

hoping to see their country win.

0:49:470:49:50

Behind me is the Zenit Arena,

0:49:500:49:53

currently in the midst of a 1 billion construction programme.

0:49:530:49:59

When it is finished,

0:49:590:50:00

it will be one of the most expensive football stadiums ever.

0:50:000:50:04

Football first came to Russia with Scottish and English workers.

0:50:060:50:10

They were encouraged to play on their day off by their bosses

0:50:100:50:14

as it stopped them drinking vodka.

0:50:140:50:17

It took another Scot, Arthur MacPherson,

0:50:170:50:20

hailed by many as the father of Russian football,

0:50:200:50:24

to recognise its potential as a national sport.

0:50:240:50:28

But who was Arthur?

0:50:280:50:30

And how did he end up dying at the hands of the Bolsheviks in prison?

0:50:300:50:35

Well, the answer lies not far from here,

0:50:350:50:38

in a cemetery on Vasilyevsky Island,

0:50:380:50:42

one of the most historic parts of the city.

0:50:420:50:45

Today, Margaret and I are meeting Russian football historian

0:50:480:50:52

and fanatic Yuri Lukosyak and his friend, Slava.

0:50:520:50:56

Yet our story doesn't start where you expect.

0:51:070:51:10

This grave is of Yuri's footballing hero, Sergei Chirtsov,

0:51:150:51:20

a prodigy of Arthur MacPherson.

0:51:200:51:23

HE SPEAKS RUSSIAN

0:51:230:51:27

So Chirtsov,

0:51:300:51:32

he learnt from MacPherson and his fellow Scotsman

0:51:320:51:36

how to play the game as a family game.

0:51:360:51:40

And they began the tradition, doing it with Russian families.

0:51:400:51:42

And they started the beautiful game here?

0:51:420:51:45

MAN SPEAKS RUSSIAN

0:51:450:51:49

And he was one of the first Russians who played with

0:51:520:51:56

the immigrant football players,

0:51:560:51:58

and brought the Russians to the game.

0:51:580:52:01

Those immigrants were us.

0:52:020:52:05

Teams of British expats who had come over to work in Vasilyevsky's many textile mills.

0:52:050:52:13

HE SPEAKS RUSSIAN

0:52:130:52:16

First of all we're very proud that we created the first football club in Russia.

0:52:190:52:22

HE SPEAKS RUSSIAN

0:52:220:52:25

And here we created the Russian Football Association,

0:52:290:52:33

of whom the president was Arthur MacPherson.

0:52:330:52:37

The first team under MacPherson was Victoria, formed in 1894.

0:52:370:52:42

It was made up of Scottish, English and German expats,

0:52:420:52:46

but the Russians weren't happy.

0:52:460:52:48

HE SPEAKS RUSSIAN

0:52:480:52:51

They wanted the expats to understand

0:52:510:52:54

that... Rossiyskiy futbol?

0:52:540:52:56

That Russian football was in the Russian territory.

0:52:560:53:00

Yeah.

0:53:020:53:03

And there was only one man with authority in Petersburg,

0:53:050:53:08

Arthur MacPherson.

0:53:080:53:11

MacPherson, he is a legendary figure.

0:53:110:53:15

He is the first sportsman in Russia...

0:53:180:53:20

..who Nicholas II...

0:53:210:53:23

..in 1914...

0:53:240:53:26

..gave the Order of Stanislaus.

0:53:280:53:31

So this is the highest honour from Nicholas II.

0:53:330:53:38

OK, so he may not have been the father of Russian football,

0:53:380:53:41

but he may have been the godfather of Russian football.

0:53:410:53:44

He's not having it. He's simply not having it!

0:53:490:53:52

I think what we find is that this is very typical of football, really.

0:53:520:53:56

The kind of difficulties that football...

0:53:570:54:00

The difficulties that football get themselves into.

0:54:000:54:03

So we have the vodka.

0:54:050:54:06

Because it's cold.

0:54:060:54:09

Just as we Scots took our sport with us,

0:54:090:54:12

we also brought our rivalry.

0:54:120:54:15

In 1901,

0:54:150:54:16

English industrialist Thomas Aston

0:54:160:54:19

proposed Russia's first-ever Scotland versus England game.

0:54:190:54:24

To Mark the occasion, he had a cup made.

0:54:240:54:27

He hoped...

0:54:270:54:29

that the first winning team would be the English team.

0:54:290:54:32

He hoped that Nevsky would beat Nevka, the Scottish team.

0:54:340:54:38

So Nevsky, let me just clarify this, Nevsky was the English team.

0:54:380:54:42

And Nevka was the Scottish team wearing the red blouses.

0:54:420:54:45

Yes, yes, yes. In fact...

0:54:450:54:48

..in the press...

0:54:500:54:51

..it was written in the press it was the Scottish versus the English,

0:54:530:54:56

-not Nevsky versus Nevka.

-Oh, I see!

0:54:560:54:59

And they separated them immediately in the Russian sports press.

0:54:590:55:02

And then...

0:55:020:55:04

The Scots won.

0:55:070:55:09

But Aston didn't write on the cup that it was the Scottish that won.

0:55:090:55:16

Typical! Typical!

0:55:160:55:20

The Scots do not get their desserts. Typical!

0:55:200:55:24

I think this is the vodka speaking.

0:55:240:55:26

OK, I just want to say...

0:55:260:55:29

HE SPEAKS RUSSIAN

0:55:290:55:32

SHE SPEAKS RUSSIAN

0:55:340:55:38

-To world football, Dad.

-To world football.

0:55:380:55:42

-Denis Law.

-Denis Law.

0:55:440:55:46

-And Matt Busby.

-And Matt Busby.

0:55:460:55:48

THEY SPEAK RUSSIAN

0:55:500:55:53

Wow! That's a genuine wow.

0:55:550:55:58

It's a fitting end to my fascinating

0:55:590:56:02

and sometimes bonkers Russian odyssey.

0:56:020:56:05

Na Zdorovie!

0:56:050:56:06

Oh, God.

0:56:090:56:11

What a journey!

0:56:110:56:12

Before I leave,

0:56:150:56:17

I want to pay tribute to this great man

0:56:170:56:19

whose honour from the Tsar would haunt him.

0:56:190:56:22

Arthur MacPherson was accused of being a British spy.

0:56:280:56:31

He was thrown into jail by the Bolsheviks.

0:56:310:56:34

It is believed that he had fought on behalf of the Tsar.

0:56:340:56:38

This gravestone was erected by Yuri, who we spoke to minutes earlier.

0:56:390:56:44

He's not buried here

0:56:460:56:48

because his body was riddled with typhus.

0:56:480:56:50

When word of his death reached the UK in March, 1920,

0:56:510:56:55

it was thought MacPherson had been murdered

0:56:550:56:58

and his body had disappeared.

0:56:580:57:00

Some weeks later,

0:57:020:57:04

three British soldiers who'd got permission to look for his body,

0:57:040:57:07

discovered it in one of the prison cells,

0:57:070:57:10

buried beneath 40 others.

0:57:100:57:12

They recognised it, as before his death,

0:57:120:57:15

Mr MacPherson had pasted a piece of paper around his wrist

0:57:150:57:20

with his name on it.

0:57:200:57:21

It's a tragic end to the man who helped shape

0:57:230:57:25

the world's most popular sport here in Russia.

0:57:250:57:29

Most of us have heard about the Scots in America, Canada, Australia,

0:57:320:57:37

but the story of our folk here in

0:57:370:57:39

the world's largest country spans centuries.

0:57:390:57:43

In making this film, I have seen an aspect of

0:57:430:57:46

the Scottish diaspora that until now I never really knew about.

0:57:460:57:51

It's only now I realise that I had unwittingly followed

0:57:510:57:56

in their footsteps.

0:57:560:57:58

Many came in search of a better life, and in doing so,

0:57:580:58:02

left our Celtic footprint.

0:58:020:58:05

But I also think we brought a willingness to work

0:58:050:58:09

and a desire to get to the very,

0:58:090:58:12

very essence of our being, and existence.

0:58:120:58:16

And at times, to reinvent ourselves.

0:58:160:58:18

And sometimes...

0:58:210:58:22

..sometimes, our influence remains.

0:58:230:58:27

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