Scotland the Wild How Scotland Works

Scotland is changing and growing.

More than five million people now live and work here,

from the big cities to the Highlands and Islands.

You think it is just a quiet backwater

where practically nothing goes on, but it's not.

People work very, very hard to make a living.

It's not easy to make a living out here.

Life in the wilderness is being transformed by technology.

Far-flung communities are becoming better connected.

I've no idea how to fly this thing, but I've got an app!

And across Scotland, people are finding new ways

to create their ideal home.

I'm the only one who lives in a boat in my class.

So, how does modern Scotland work?

How does Scotland's infrastructure keep the country moving?

How are Scotland's remotest communities facing the future?

And how is home life in Scotland changing in the 21st century?

This series goes to the heart of contemporary Scottish life

to reveal how Scotland works.

Scotland has some of the most remote,

sparsely populated regions in Europe.

Its mountains, lochs and forests

are home to an abundance of wildlife.

12,000 miles of coast teem with sea birds and fish.

But Scotland's far-flung, rural places

are also home to another species.

People.

HORN BLOWS

And for the first time in decades,

the population of the Highlands and Islands is actually growing.

So, how is life in Scotland's remotest communities changing

in the 21st century?

What kind of jobs and industries are sustaining people here?

And what does the future hold?

This is Scotland The Wild.

Lying on Scotland's most northerly coast, Orkney is a land apart.

This wild but fertile archipelago,

made up of more than 70 separate islands,

has been inhabited since the Stone Age.

Throughout the 20th century, Orkney's population was in decline,

but today it's actually growing faster

than any other Scottish island community,

partly thanks to incomers who are choosing to make their homes here.

Some are coming up with innovative ways to make a living

from Orkney's most important asset - the sea.

Moored among the trawlers here in Stromness is an unusual new vessel.

The Huskyan is a purpose-built dive boat,

specifically designed for sub-aqua tourism.

Her captain and owner is professional diving guide Emily Turton.

I've been skipping a dive boat now for 12 years.

I came to Orkney in 2003 for a week's diving holiday

and I haven't gone home yet.

SHE LAUGHS

Emily is part of the new wave of incomers that has been

helping Orkney to grow.

Today, almost 22,000 people live and work here.

These chilly waters might not seem the obvious choice

for a diving holiday,

but Emily's business is flourishing thanks to an accident of history.

Because this is no ordinary stretch of water -

it's Scapa Flow.

A vast natural harbour,

sheltered from the North Atlantic by a circle of islands.

Hidden beneath its waves are some of the most extraordinary

marine relics in the UK.

The wrecks of seven German battleships from World War I,

which were deliberately sunk here in 1919 by their commander

after being captured by the Allies.

Every year, thousands of divers from across the world come to explore

these haunting sights.

Are you ready, Archie?

OK, guys. Off you go!

The wrecked ships, spread far and wide across the seabed,

offer these visitors a unique perspective on our history.

The wrecks underwater are quite a special place to me.

They are some of the only First World War wrecks

that you can dive on

in an as accessible place as Scapa Flow is.

They've very big - they're quite often

some of the biggest things people have seen underwater.

They range from about 5,000 tonnes, up to about 26,000 tonnes.

Now, the conditions visibility-wise -

on average, visibility is eight to ten metres.

So, if you have a ship that's 155 metres long

it unfolds ten metres at a time

and you're never getting a full picture,

you have to piece them together.

So, they have giant big guns. Gun turrets that weigh 600 tonnes.

Armour plate and portholes and giant rudders.

A lot of steel, but lots of detail and the wrecks are a haven

for marine life, as well. So, if you're into that sort of thing

more than the architecture of the wreck,

then they're teeming with life.

After an hour underwater, the divers return to the surface.

It's very broken up, so you can really have a delve in

and have a look round.

We had a good look at the bottom of one of the turrets.

Had a little bit of a look at the conveyer belt for the shells

and the explosives that they used to fire those.

Like, a dive like that, you don't just get the marine life,

you get the history and the story and you can just spend hours

researching it and you kind of feel a part of it then.

Emily's experience is becoming more common in Scotland's rural areas.

Decades of depopulation are starting to be reversed

and new kinds of businesses are developing to support the people

who choose to live here.

There are a lot of people from "south", as we call it -

everywhere is south from here, unless you live in Shetland -

but I think it's quite a nice place to be.

I've never really felt that we weren't welcome

and everybody integrates quite well.

It's nice to live in a place where the locals are very proud

of their heritage, because it doesn't get lost with more people

that come in from other places, we just kind of get welcomed here.

Island life is different, but it just felt right.

It felt like it was like a breath of fresh air,

rather than the hustle and bustle of living in inner-city Birmingham or inner-city London.

It just felt, this is where I should be, why doesn't everybody do this?

Well, I'm quite glad everybody doesn't do it, really.

Otherwise, it wouldn't be what it is, would it?

With the population of Orkney projected to keep growing,

maintaining essential services like hospitals and schools

is more important than ever.

In a community that's scattered across different islands,

this can be challenging.

Well, my commute to work is pretty interesting.

Probably takes about an hour door to door,

for me to actually get to work,

but the plane is definitely the most unusual part of my journey to work.

Kate Evans is a teacher based on Orkney's biggest island, Mainland.

But her pupils live on other smaller islands -

Westray, Sanday and Stronsay.

Today, her journey to work involves taking one of Scotland's

shortest commercial flights.

Thanks, Davie.

A 15-minute hop across the water from Kirkwall to Westray.

Then it's a taxi ride across the island to the school.

See you later.

A chance to catch up with the local gossip.

So, what's new in Kirkwall today?

-There's no fog.

-No fog?

Which is always a bonus.

-Nothing to report in Westray, then?

-A beautiful day up here.

Good. That's where we're going.

This is Westray Junior High.

It currently has 69 pupils from nursery to S4

and serves a total island population of just over 550 people.

Most of the teachers here are local residents.

For certain subjects, specialists like Kate come in to lend a hand.

Because there's obviously a difficulty in getting teachers

to come out to the Isle schools - and I fly in and out every day -

it's very much a case of

you have to be able to adapt to different subjects.

At the moment, in the three schools that I'm in, I teach biology,

physics and health and food technology.

So, I have three very interesting subjects

to get to grips with every week.

So, this is a new one - not done this one before -

so we'll have to see how it goes.

When the weather is bad and I don't get to work,

various things happen depending on which school it is.

In most of the schools, the teachers who are resident

will take my classes and they do a fantastic job -

considering they're not specialist, they do a really fantastic job.

And I send in work by e-mail when we're stuck at the airport

and can't go anywhere. And also sometimes in certain schools

I'm able to talk to the kids online.

So very often I'll be sitting at the airport

but actually chatting online to the kids,

telling them what to do with their work and I'll be sending them files

to work on, or worksheets to do in class while I'm actually not there.

# Hello, hello, hello, hello, hello, hello, hello

# Hello, hello, hello, hello, hello, hello, hello. #

It's very important to keep these Isle schools going by having

travelling teachers and finding people who want to do this job,

because the school is the most essential part of the community.

And although it may be a small school

and there may be small numbers of students here,

that doesn't make it any less important.

We still have a job to do and it's important we do that job well.

The growth rate of Orkney is part of a pattern that is being repeated

across the Highlands and Islands.

Between 2001 and 2011, the population of the Highlands

increased by 11% - a higher rate of growth than most other areas.

But these are still among the most sparsely populated regions

in the whole of Europe.

The landscape here can be harsh and unforgiving.

So to make ends meet in the 21st century Highlands,

locals are combining traditional jobs

with some more forward-thinking initiatives.

In Assynt, Sutherland, in the far northwest of mainland Scotland,

crofter couple Andy and Ros have some shepherding to do.

Right, these are Hebridean sheep.

These are the original breed of sheep that used to be here

several hundred years ago before the Clearances.

We breed them here for... the wool is very, very good,

but also they taste very good, as well.

This traditional Highland farm in the remote coastal village

of Clachtoll is one of several in this part of Scotland

being maintained by a new generation of crofters.

It can be a hard life,

but Andy and Ros's commitment to the place runs deep.

I can't imagine being anywhere else.

I mean, the work situation is always difficult

and whether we have enough money, you know -

that's what everybody feels -

but I think there's a lot of commitment here from people

to look after the community and help it work and look after each other.

There's a big commitment that way.

Come on, guys.

Over the past decade,

crofting in Scotland has been given a boost by new laws

that have helped locals buy a stake in the land

on which they live and work.

I think one thing that makes a difference is a lot of the community

now own their own land, so the future is in our own hands, really,

and it's up to us to think of innovative ways

to attract investment or attract new types of jobs,

so you never know what's just round the corner.

The next thing round the corner for Andy

could bring some much-needed extra income into the area.

This moneyspinning idea came to him while he was doing his other job.

He's a countryside ranger.

It's inspired by one of Scotland's most iconic and elusive creatures.

The golden eagle.

Normally when I come out looking for golden eagles,

you can be here all day.

You can be tramping out on the hills.

They usually nest and have their home range

in very remote places, so it's a long walk out.

You can spend your whole day walking out to look for golden eagles.

They're really well camouflaged

and they can just sit on the crag or on the heather,

and maybe at the end of the day, you'll not see any.

Now Andy has come up with a plan

to make those magnificent birds of prey a little easier to spot...

..in the hope that they will attract more tourists into the area.

Hi, John. It's Andy here.

I just want to know your status, how you're getting on.

Have you been able to get any deer yet?

'We've just got to strap the deer, and then heading towards you.'

Oh, that's brilliant.

We're in position now, so we'll just wait for you to come over.

Thanks.

Further down the valley,

wildlife manager and head stalker John Venters

has just shot a deer as part of routine population control.

Instead of selling the meat to the local butcher,

they're going to use the carcass as bait for the golden eagles.

There's two reasons for this.

It's going to be food for it for the wintertime.

Wintertime is a hard time for golden eagles.

Lots of prey during the summer, but in wintertime,

they rely on carcasses and dead animals they can find,

so it's a hard time for them.

Anything we can give them, keep them through the winter, would be good.

But, also, it's a wildlife viewing opportunity,

so our idea is to build a hide,

and we'll have visitors and guests come to hide

in January, February, March time, so they can watch the eagle.

This is a brand-new initiative

jointly run by the Highland Council and the Assynt Foundation,

a community-based organisation

which bought this vast estate ten years ago.

This area, it's quite a fragile area,

the economy and stuff like that,

so ecotourism is a possible way forward.

There can be nothing as spectacular

as seeing one of these splendid birds, you know?

This is the first time John and Andy

have tried to attract the eagles down from the mountain this way,

so they have left motion sensor camera traps

around the carcass to monitor the results.

If the eagles do show up,

it'll be a big boost for Andy's experimental eagle tourism project.

OK, well, we've been here a couple of hours.

It's beginning to get a wee bit cold.

Very still. It's absolutely beautiful.

But at the minute, there's no sign of any eagles just yet.

So we're just sitting here patiently and seeing what's going to happen.

As dusk draws in, Andy decides to head for home.

With a bit of luck,

if the eagles do come down to feed during the night,

the camera traps will capture the action.

If it works, Andy's ecotourism idea

will not only feed the golden eagles,

it will also generate income for the local community

through the harsh winter months.

The next morning, Andy and John head back up the mountain,

eager to see if the eagles have taken their bait.

Wow.

Oh! This is...

That's a bird of prey.

A big bird of prey there.

That's their droppings. Look. Look, there it is again.

Hopefully, that's a sign that the golden eagles have been around.

Something has definitely been at the carcass,

but with ravens, badgers and other animals in the area,

it's difficult to know for certain

if the golden eagles have been feeding here.

Well, obviously, there's been a lot of activity at the carcass here.

We think foxes have been at it, pretty definitely ravens.

So I'm excited to see what the camera traps picked up.

We'll go and have a look and see if we've got some pictures

that will tell the full story of who's been to visit.

OK, let's...

Let's see what we've got.

-Oh, yes! Yeah. Yes.

-Both of them.

Oh, there's two, yeah, yeah.

Right, that's this year's youngster. He'll be about six month's old.

And that's... That's an adult there. They're both there.

The young one's really tucking into it, isn't it?

That's why they've got that big, strong beak,

for just ripping into it.

Look at it ripping into it there.

-Look at the size of them, though, compared to that beastie.

-Yeah.

The young one's calling.

-See?

-Yeah.

-It's opened its mouth, calling. Yelping.

EAGLET CHIRPS

That's... I'm really pleased with that. That was really good.

That's good. It's getting dark now.

Oh, there's something there! It's a badger.

It's a badger.

Is it?

-No, it's not.

-No, it's a pine marten.

-It's a pine marten.

Ah!

-A pine...

-A pine marten, yeah.

Andy's experiment proves

that leaving deer carcasses out for the eagles

will help them survive the winter.

And it will also make it easier for wildlife enthusiasts

to have a magical encounter with Scotland's most famous bird of prey.

I think from this, this shows the project could definitely work,

and we can start advertising...

-Yeah.

-..you know, "Come to Assynt, come see a golden eagle."

Scotland's wild places attract more than a million tourists each year,

drawn by the prospect of getting close to nature at its purest.

But in this 21st-century Highland landscape,

appearances can be deceptive.

Today, many thousands of acres of Scotland's rural land

is covered by what is, in effect, one huge factory.

Its product is timber.

Around 18% of Scotland is covered by trees.

An additional 380 square miles are due to be planted by 2022.

They're a key renewable asset for a growing hi-tech industry

that employs over 20,000 people

and is worth nearly £1 billion a year.

BSW Timber in Dalbeattie is the highest volume sawmill in the UK.

They make products for the construction,

DIY and biofuels industries.

With a workforce of around 160 people,

it's the largest single employer in the area.

Robert Lamont from Dalbeattie has worked here for several years,

and trained his way up to become one of the site managers.

He's now in charge of some of the most technologically advanced

timber production in the world.

Everything is controlled from this one cabin.

The operator sitting in the seat there

is monitoring over 20 different cameras on the line,

following it right through the whole cycle.

In a normal shift, an eight-and-a-half hour shift,

we will process around about 1,000 cubic metres of timber.

In a week, we'll probably average around 40,000 to 50,000 logs.

To process such massive quantities of timber,

the mill uses the latest hi-tech equipment.

Every single log that passes through the line

will pass through a laser scanner.

That scanner will define the shape of every single log,

and each machine on the line will move into position

to cut different width boards, depending on the shape of the log.

The lasers are there to maximise the volume of saleable timber

from each and every individual log.

Very advanced in sawmilling.

Years ago, the operators running the mill

would just do a visual check of the log,

and they would physically turn the log on a joystick

to what they thought was the best presentation to the machines.

But technology's made huge leaps forward

in the advanced sawmilling sector.

Scotland's timber industry has another key advantage.

The weather.

The warm, wet climate helps trees to grow faster here

than in other parts of Europe.

Conifers in particular

grow up to three times as fast as they do in Scandinavia.

This has allowed the industry to grow significantly

in the last 20 years,

when other manufacturing industries have been in decline.

But it's not all plain sailing.

Like eagles, trees are a natural resource.

Exploitation and conservation have to go hand-in-hand.

One of the biggest current threats to Scotland's forests is disease.

So the tree doctors are taking to the skies

to try and diagnose the problem.

So, today, we're doing a surveillance flight

over southwestern Scotland,

and I will be looking for trees that aren't looking well.

Paddy Robertson is operations manager

of the Forestry Commission's tree health team.

From a helicopter, we can survey massive areas in a single day,

and we get a plane view of the top of the forest, or the forest canopy.

Even from a couple of kilometres away in the air,

we can see trees that are showing signs of ill health.

INDISTINCT RADIO CHATTER

Paddy and his team are responsible

for the well-being of millions of Scottish trees.

It's their job to prevent the spread of a growing number of diseases

that can infect our forests.

At certain times of the year,

different trees turn different colours.

What we're looking for is trees that are going orange or brown

at the wrong time of year.

This is the best view you can get of the forest.

From his bird's-eye view,

Paddy has spotted something that needs closer inspection.

Can you take us down here on the left, please?

See that there? See the spruce by the forest road there.

The team have identified an area

that looks like it's infected with one of the most deadly diseases

currently threatening Scotland's forests.

Phytophthora ramorum turned up in large trees in Scotland

in the last five years.

It's a major issue

in that it's behaving in different ways on different species.

But the large populations, because they're such big trees,

when you get infection and they start to sporulate,

you then get spores travelling big distances.

If we did nothing, this particular pest

would kill the majority of the large trees,

particularly on the western seaboard,

probably in the next five to ten years.

We're controlling it, but it's very much reliant on rapid action.

Yeah, that's exactly what we're looking for.

Having detected a potential infection from the air,

the team now has to try to access it on the ground.

We're going in here to follow up the tree

that looks like it's in poor health -

the tree we've identified from the helicopter.

It's very obvious from the air,

but when you're walking from underneath, it's not so obvious.

If you've got the location on the GPS,

you can walk to it a bit quicker.

If this disease is what we fear it might be,

it's a highly infectious disease,

so if we don't remove this tree and the trees around it,

in subsequent years, you could lose the whole forest.

You've got it there, have you? Let's have a look.

Oh, that one there. Yeah, there he is.

Identifying and felling infected trees before the disease spreads

is crucial to controlling the infection.

Having found the dying tree,

Paddy and his team need to diagnose the problem as quickly as possible.

You can see in here

where I'm exposing the wood underneath the bark,

it's very brown.

Really not very happy at all.

It should be green, or a nice creamy colour.

A sample from the tree should tell Paddy what's wrong.

So a little bit of this solution in the dropper.

Stick it in the well and wait.

-That's pretty convincing straightaway.

-Quick, isn't it?

Like a pregnancy test. There's two stripes you can see there.

There's a T for test and C for control.

If there's no phytophthora present, the test line will not come up.

As you can see here, it's quite quickly come up with

a line for the control and for the test.

So that's pretty convincing.

I will still send a sample to the lab for confirmation,

but at this sight,

I'd be comfortable we'll be informing the landowner

and proceeding to get the site felled

to try and control the infection that is here.

This forest is in the heart of Dumfriesshire,

an area particularly affected by the disease.

It's crucial that the infected area is cleared quickly

to stop the spread and also maximise the amount of still healthy timber

that can be processed and sold.

There's 14,000 tonnes of timber to be harvested here.

So this is where modern forestry's cutting-edge kit

comes into its own.

In charge of the operation is Mike Mitchell.

The machine that we're using today is called a mounty skyline.

It's specifically designed for steep terrain

and sites that are sensitive to weather and rainfall.

The rope that you can see going up the hill

is a static cable with a carriage running along it.

Once the trees get to the bottom of the skyline,

the harvester head will grab the tree

and process it into predetermined lengths,

and from there, they go to the roadside and to the sawmill.

If we didn't clear the trees from the area,

the trees would naturally die,

rot back, they become quite dangerous.

Signs are this year that the spread has slowed down significantly.

I think we are slowly getting on top of it,

but I don't think we could eradicate it totally.

Out here, deep in the Galloway forest,

this multi-million pound industry

is completely hidden from the view of most Scots.

But it's become one of the key drivers

of the 21st-century Scottish economy.

Right across Scotland's remote regions,

far from the country's centres of population and employment,

communities and businesses are flourishing in unexpected ways.

Increasingly, being physically cut off

doesn't mean being out of touch.

One remarkable example can be found on the Isle of Coll.

Coll lies just under nine miles off the west coast

and is one of Scotland's smallest Hebridean communities.

Connected to the mainland by a two-and-a-half hour ferry journey

and six flights a week,

the island has just two main roads, no street lights,

and is home to around 200 people.

Many of them, like fireman Angus Smalley,

must do more than one job to make ends meet.

Obviously, I'm in charge of this unit.

I also would provide the fire cover up at the airport.

So we cover...

we cover two flights on a Monday, two on a Wednesday,

one on a Friday and one on a Sunday, up there.

I work for Caledonian MacBrayne.

I'm one of the pier hands down at the pier.

Got a croft of my own with 50-odd sheep on.

Look after a herd of pedigree Highland cattle

for a lady that's retired but doesn't live here any more.

Yeah, plenty to do.

One service that isn't provided on the island is policing.

Unfortunately, we don't have police here.

Or fortunately, whichever way you want to look at it.

I think it's a good thing.

I think it shows that we are pretty well-behaved, if nothing else!

Despite his modern-day fire engine,

John's way of life echoes the traditional island pattern.

But hidden away in the northwest corner of Coll

is something much more unusual.

The busy headquarters of a thriving international organisation.

These are the offices of Project Trust,

an educational charity

that offers overseas volunteering placements for school-leavers.

As Coll's largest employer,

Project Trust plays a major role in the prosperity of the island.

Ingrid Emerson is CEO.

I think the impact on Coll is huge.

You know, it's a relatively small Hebridean island.

It's pretty remote, it's quite isolated.

Yet, suddenly, you come across this very vibrant, busy, active,

reasonably young group of people

who, by and large,

the majority have moved here for the actual work.

You know, there's a real sense of business about Coll.

You know, and whilst Project Trust

is absolutely not totally responsible for that,

it certainly plays a really big part in it.

Project Trust annually selects around 300 young people

from across the UK and Europe

for extended voluntary teaching and social care projects,

often in isolated parts of Africa, Asia and the Americas.

The charity was set up in 1967,

and as it approaches its 50th birthday,

it's bigger than ever.

John Fraser first came to the island in the early 1970s as a volunteer.

He liked it so much that he's still here

and has become the project's overseas programme director.

For John, Coll isn't just a nice place to live.

Its remoteness makes it the perfect training ground

for teenagers hoping to be sent abroad alone.

It's excellent preparation for people going overseas.

It weeds out a lot of people who might think,

"Oh, it's a bit far, it's a step too far."

And it mimics a lot of travelling overseas.

I mean, even to get from Scotland to here is not straightforward.

If you're coming from the south of England, coming from Europe,

where many of our volunteers come from, it's a journey in itself.

Today, 14 new, young volunteers are arriving on Coll.

Each one hopes they'll be selected.

But, first, they need to prove they can hack it in the Hebrides.

My name's Chris Buckingham. I'm from Essex.

I'm from a little town called Southwold in Suffolk.

-I'm from High Wycombe.

-I'm came from Birmingham.

I travelled up from Newcastle.

I've never been to Coll before. It's absolutely beautiful.

It's interesting.

It's very different to where I'm from.

I mean, I'm sitting here, looking out,

and I can only see two buildings.

It's a bit weird, but, yeah.

Over the next few days, each of the volunteer candidates

will be challenged in a series of tasks and workshops

to assess which one of the overseas projects

would be most suitable for them

and, crucially, how they'll handle a year

in a far-flung corner of the globe.

It give you a hint of what being abroad,

somewhere really remote, would be like.

You have no idea what you're doing, no idea who you're going to be with,

and then you'll stay with some random people that you've never met,

and it's like a taste

of perhaps being isolated from your family or from your home comforts.

This week's selection course

coincides with one of the highlights of the Coll social calendar.

Tonight is our annual fishing competition

in the village here on the Isle of Coll.

It runs from seven o'clock till nine o'clock.

All small boats with crews of three on.

It was primarily set up for visitors.

Something for the visitors to do in the summer.

So every boat has to have a visitor on it.

-I've got myself on a boat.

-Er, who got you on a boat?

Yeah, it's been going quite a long time now, yeah.

Since the mid-'50s, I think it was set up, I think.

You win trophies. Win trophies, some money, the odd bit of alcohol.

Hold on. Did you bring any beer with you?

It's a good night. Yeah, good fun.

Quite competitive between a couple of the boats.

-Some of us aren't quite that competitive.

-See you later.

There's one chap here that continues to win it.

A chap by the name of John Fraser,

which, every year we try to dethrone, but every year, they fail!

He's very, very, competitive at it.

It is good for it, you know. Gives it a bit of an edge.

AIR HORN BLARES

CHEERING

Meanwhile, on the other side of the island,

three more new arrivals are exploring Coll's famous beaches.

It's such a nice beach.

-Gorgeous, isn't it?

-Pretty impressive.

If it was a bit warmer, it could be the Mediterranean.

I didn't expect this at all.

I kind of expected a windy, rainy Scottish island,

but this is so much better.

Come on, then, dog.

Their guide is one of the many islanders who welcome

volunteers into their homes for the duration of their stay.

I'm nervous about being away for a year.

I think you'd be a bit foolish not to be.

But, no, more looking forward to hopefully going

away for a year if I'm selected.

And just going to enjoy this while I'm here as well, in Coll.

Back in the village, two hours of fiercely competitive fishing are up.

It's time to see who has the heaviest haul.

Last year's winner, John Fraser, is the man to beat.

Don't lose it. Need that. Might just win us the heaviest box.

We're happy with that. That's good for us.

Yeah, it was pretty good. I'm covered in fish blood.

Yeah.

I had my first taste of, like, fish blood and Tennent's, mixed,

which was a pretty acquired taste, actually.

Get my priorities right. Get my beer up first.

Aye, get your beer up first.

We didn't get many mackerel. That's probably the best one.

We'll see what happens, eh? We'll get the scales up and running here.

As each boat's catch is weighed in,

it becomes clear that the contest is wide open,

and reigning champion John isn't in the running.

It's...41.25.

41.25.

Yeah, I've won it a few times over the years.

Won it last year but I won't be winning it this year,

that's for certain.

Highland Plastics.

Highland Plastics.

Oh, my word.

67 and a half. 67.5.

The results are in, and it falls to John to announce the winners.

Right, before we all get eaten by midges...

HE GROANS

..for the final prize, this was 30.53 kilos - Highland Plastics.

CHEERING

Fire chief Angus and his crew

have won it for the first time in over ten years of trying.

-Well done.

-Thank you.

I think we're heading to the pub now for a pint

and Julie always puts on onion bhajis, etc, so go and enjoy.

-Night-night.

-CHEERING AND APPLAUSE

The continuing success of Project Trust proves that

in the 21st-century Hebrides,

physical isolation no longer means being cut off from the world.

This fishing competition is just one event

on Coll's busy social calendar.

The island also hosts, among other things, an annual half-marathon,

a basking shark festival and even a chamber music festival.

Scotland's rural communities have been inventing

weird and wonderful ways to entertain themselves for centuries.

From Highland Games

to fire festivals,

these traditions have always helped to bring people together.

Today, some of these events have grown into big business,

worth millions of pounds to local economies.

One of the biggest, fastest and loudest

takes place every October here on the Isle of Mull.

MUSIC: Crosstown Traffic by Jimi Hendrix

INDISTINCT

The Mull Rally.

Started by amateur enthusiasts in 1969,

the Mull Rally has become world-famous

on the global motor sport circuit.

It is now the only rally in Great Britain that's

staged on closed public roads

and the competitors are still overwhelmingly non-professionals

who come from all over the UK

to test their skills on Mull's notorious bends.

It's a week a year, one week a year

where the island is completely transformed.

You don't want to come to the island in this week if you're a cyclist

expecting a nice, quiet cycling holiday

because it just ain't going to happen.

Colin Clarke is the voice of rallying.

He spends his life touring the world

and reporting from all the major races.

But for him and for motorsport fans across the globe,

Mull is something special.

It has got worldwide appeal, this rally.

The fans around the world know about Mull Rally.

They see the pictures, they'll watch the TV footage

and it has to have a very positive affect on tourism.

In terms of the numbers that are involved, it is amazing.

This year, 143 teams have entered the rally

and, as race day approaches, Mull is occupied by an invading army of

drivers, navigators, engineers, fans

and some of the most powerful cars on the planet.

Mull's population, normally around 3,000 people, almost doubles.

And it's estimated that over £1 million will be spent here

during the event, a massive boost to Mull's economy

at the end of the tourist season.

You see the pictures of Mull and it is the most beautiful island

and you think it is just a quiet backwater where practically

nothing goes on, but it's not.

It is a place where people work very, very hard to make a living.

It's not easy to make a living out here.

These guys have to be all-rounders.

They're drivers, they're engineers, they're foresters, they're farmers.

They're all sorts and that's the way you make a living,

living and working in what's quite a demanding environment, I suppose.

But there's something else about the Mull Rally that makes it

unique in the world of motorsport.

Many of the top competitors are local island people.

ENGINE ROARS

Allan Cameron owns the local filling station

and has been taking part in the rally for 26 years.

This car will be around about 280 horsepower.

It's not the most powerful in the event but, you know,

it's getting that way.

Your car's probably something like, maybe,

I don't know, I guess about 85.

So there's... There is...

-There's quite a difference.

-HE CHUCKLES

Over its 46-year history,

the rally has become more than a chance to break the speed limit -

it has become knitted into the life of the community.

There's been people coming to the island through the rallies

since it began and some have actually retired here or moved

up here, bought a house up here, work up here, things like that.

You've got Easter, Christmas and the rally.

It's part of the culture, I would say.

Today, the Isle of Mull boasts around 20 rally teams,

probably the highest number per head of population of the planet.

You won't find another population centre anywhere in the world,

anywhere in the world, whether it's a town or village that

actually has produced so many really top-quality rally drivers.

Rallying for a lot of the youngsters here is what they grow up with,

it's what they aspire to be. They want to be rally drivers.

They don't want to be footballers, they don't want to be rugby players.

The rally is such a huge part of the island

that these youngsters all want to drive rally cars.

One of those youngsters whose racing dreams came true

is eight-times Mull Rally champion Calum Duffy.

Having won the rally last year, Calum and his co-pilot brother, Ian,

will be starting in pole position with their new Subaru.

It's something their mum, Catherine, has mixed feelings about.

Oh, dear Lord.

It's not good for me.

You know, I used to smoke and, honest to God, I will be there

with about two cigarettes in my mouth and one in each hand.

It's not good for old people.

You don't realise how fast you're going in the car

until you see the videos and everything people have taken

and how close you are to the edge sometimes but...

it's good fun, so...

..better to live life like that.

I'd be lying if I said that winning wasn't important.

We go into the rally to give it out best shot.

We go as hard as we possibly can.

You have personal bests that you're trying to beat all the time.

You know what you can do in the stages,

but it's not the be all and end all.

I've had plenty good battles.

If someone gives me a good fight and beats me,

they're more than welcome to take the title.

It's day one of the big race

and rally fever is gripping the island.

The roads have been cleared,

the cars have been certified and the whole of the Duffy family

have come together to see the brothers off.

Very emotional when they're starting, you know,

the night that they're going.

I always feel very emotional then, when they're heading off.

But they never go without a hug.

That's part of being the old mother, isn't it?

As the light fades, Mull's main town, Tobermory,

begins to reverberate with the rumble of engines.

Souped-up cars in all shapes and sizes

sweep in to the normally tranquil port, ready for action.

With an hour to go, local driver Allan is sizing up the competition.

Could be somebody coming in that's never done the event before

but he could be really quick because it's his first time here.

-So you can't allow for that, you know?

-LOUD BANG

HE LAUGHS

Sorry about the sound effects.

From here, the drivers will blast off one at a time

across the island at speeds of up to 120mph.

They'll be cheered on by hundreds of spectators lining the route.

It gets people out on the island.

From Moness at the south end of Mull to Tobermory.

It brings the whole island together.

Outside Calum Duffy's hometown of Dervaig,

Calum's dad, Huey, takes up his usual vantage point.

It's a bit tense at the moment, just waiting for things to happen.

And the fact that we've had a little rain,

it's going to make it very interesting.

Calum is in pole position,

and the first driver of the night to tackle Dervaig's hairpin bends.

Seemed OK.

I'd say he was a little cautious but it's understandable, you know.

First stage, a little slippy,

he's just trying to feel the car, you know.

As the race continues deep into the night,

the weather takes a turn for the worse.

With rain lashing down, Calum is holding a slender lead.

I think tomorrow will be really good.

I think it'll be a good battle yet.

But on day two of the rally,

as the crowds begin to gather again outside Dervaig,

news filters through about an accident

on an earlier stage of the race.

One of the lead cars has crashed into a field and burst into flames.

It's so serious that the whole event is immediately shut down.

The car that crashed was being driven by John MacCrone,

one of the top drivers in the race and a Mull native.

John has been seriously injured and helicoptered to hospital in Glasgow.

Tragically, his co-driver, Andy Mort, died at the scene.

With the whole island in shock, a memorial service is organised

to show support for the family and share in the collective grief.

Ladies and gentlemen, children, all...

..thank you for coming to join us on this sad afternoon

to pay tribute to Andy Mort,

who so tragically lost his life yesterday.

We all know that this game that we play is dangerous.

We never think it's going to happen to us, our friends...

..and we don't like to even imagine it can happen.

I'd like to ask...

..Calum Duffy, please, if he'd come and join me.

We're gathered here in simple disbelief

United we stand to share this grief

Taken from this world in a blink of an eye

Doing what he loved but no time to say goodbye

A gentle giant Fun-loving and kind

These traits in a person are very hard to find.

Take care, big fellow. The angels have you now. Fly.

PIPER PLAYS

An occasion like this, you know,

I've seen it a couple of times before, you know,

when you've had people lost in boats and things like that,

nothing to do with the rally, you know.

It's felt throughout the island, you know, and...

it's amazing the way people band together in situations like this

and this community is strong, it really is,

and I'm more than confident they'll come through it stronger.

Despite the accident,

it has since been decided that the rally will be staged again in 2016.

It's become part of the spirit of this unique place

and it's a chance for the community here to show the rest of the world

what Mull, and the Highlands and Islands in general, are all about,

because there is something magical about Scotland's wilderness.

Many visitors from around the world, and the locals, would agree.

So what is it that makes these places feel so special?

Maybe it's the fact that, out here,

we can all feel part of something bigger than ourselves.

In the far southwest of Scotland,

in the Galloway Forest Park,

this idea is being tested in a new way.

Here, miles from the nearest town

and its light pollution,

you can come face-to-face with the infinite.

In 2009, Galloway Forest Park was the first place in Europe

to be awarded Dark Sky status

by the International Dark Sky Association.

Tourist head Keith Muir has seen visitor numbers grow as a result.

Light and darkness -

that's how we grew up, if you like, how man has evolved.

We grew up underneath the stars and we've been guided by the moon

and the stars for generations, OK?

We, over the modern, in the last 100 years,

have evolved much more to rely on light as being our friend.

Now, we do require light,

but unfortunately, people aren't controlling light.

Light is going everywhere and light pollution is one of the biggest

things that earth has now got and that's big of an issue for us.

But it's also an issue for our own health and wellbeing.

There's lots of studies going around saying

you need a good night's sleep with no light pollution

to build up all your melatonin

and all these other elements which we need.

We're into our third and fourth generations

have never seen true darkness and that's a bit scary.

The great thing here is there's no light pollution.

You can see Andromeda.

You can see the Milky Way from horizon to horizon.

You can see over 7,000 stars just with your naked eye.

And if you give your naked eye a bit of help,

the views here can be truly mind-blowing.

Near Whithorn, Mike Alexander runs an unusual bed and breakfast.

As well as the standard full Scottish,

this B&B offers guests the chance to view the cosmos

through a powerful telescope

kept in a shed at the bottom of the garden.

This is our main telescope.

It has a 16-inch mirror at this end

and you view through here.

Magnification capability of this telescope

is between 60 to 600 times magnification.

A camera at full zoom would be 15 times zoom,

so we're working at much higher magnifications.

Tonight is a very special night in the astronomical calendar.

There will be a rare total eclipse of a super full moon,

which is when the moon is at its closest point to the earth.

This creates an eerie effect known as a blood moon.

It will make for a remarkable night's star gazing,

if the Scottish weather allows.

I have my fingers crossed,

our guests who are here have their fingers crossed,

and we'll have a great event if it happens.

According to NASA, this astronomical event

only happened five times in the whole of the 20th century.

At 2am, Mike and his guests wake to find the skies clear.

Conditions are near perfect for viewing a celestial wonder.

Well, really, it's a gift experience for my wife's retirement.

My wife retired two years ago and we've come down tonight

because Mike suggested it would be the perfect way to enjoy

the experience at this time of the year.

The eclipse has started.

We're just seeing the first touch of the moon

into the shadow of the earth.

As we focus in on the moon, you can see a very bright moon

and a definite piece of it missing.

As the earth moves round to cast its shadow over the moon,

the sky becomes darker and the stars appear brighter.

Wow.

But that's just the start of the show.

-It's good, isn't it?

-Yeah. Fantastic!

At total eclipse, something extraordinary will happen.

The moon will change colour.

Now we're about half an hour away from the total eclipse.

We're able to see a lot more stars.

Before, when we first came out,

just the brightest stars in the constellations were visible

and now there's many more stars starting to appear.

When we hit full eclipse,

it's quite likely we'll be able to see the Milky Way stretching

right the way across the sky,

if it's not too hazy.

Basically, turning the moon off.

Found the dimmer switch on the moon. Getting rid of it.

The last time there was a similar eclipse was 33 years ago,

and that was the year my wife and I got married.

So quite significant.

I don't think we'll make the next one, but.

THEY LAUGH

You never know.

It's been a super night, hasn't it? It's so clear.

As the world becomes more urbanised,

seeing the Milky Way with the naked eye

is something that billions of people on earth may never experience.

Tonight in Galloway, as well as the Milky Way,

a blood-red super moon shines majestically in the sky.

All over Scotland, the night skies put on spectacular displays

and these remote and, crucially, very dark areas of the country

are some of the best places in the world to witness them.

Next time:

Permission to come aboard.

How are today's Scots facing the challenge of finding a home?

It's a dry, warm place,

a roof over the head and that's everything, really.

It's all you need.

What is being done to create enough houses for Scotland's future?

It's really exciting creating a whole new town

basically by ourselves.

What does "home" mean to us?

It's got so much I remember of my younger days

and my husband's younger days.