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Perfume is magic worked by science. Its job - to capture the moment. | 0:00:05 | 0:00:12 | |
Fragrance takes us back to good times, past loves, the moment we realised | 0:00:14 | 0:00:20 | |
-our mother could smell of more than just mum. -My mum was getting ready. | 0:00:20 | 0:00:25 | |
That child's vision of the most beautiful princess was my mother. | 0:00:25 | 0:00:30 | |
The message is romance, but the language is molecules, | 0:00:32 | 0:00:36 | |
spoken by perfumers or noses. They're artists, | 0:00:36 | 0:00:41 | |
scientists and philosophers. | 0:00:41 | 0:00:43 | |
So many Americans want to smell clean. They really want to divorce themselves as much as possible | 0:00:44 | 0:00:50 | |
from the way their own body truly smells. | 0:00:50 | 0:00:54 | |
There are more astronauts than perfumers. | 0:00:54 | 0:00:58 | |
They meddle with our memories, but their craft is a mystery. Who are they? | 0:00:58 | 0:01:04 | |
Where are they? | 0:01:04 | 0:01:06 | |
And how do you become one? | 0:01:06 | 0:01:09 | |
In August, New York reeks. | 0:01:19 | 0:01:22 | |
Below the surface, citizens endure the commute, breathing hot steel and perspiration. | 0:01:22 | 0:01:29 | |
Above ground, a cacophony of scents | 0:01:32 | 0:01:36 | |
riding on wet steam and rotting vegetation. | 0:01:36 | 0:01:39 | |
If those odours provoke memories of good times, | 0:01:45 | 0:01:48 | |
alternative perfumer Christopher Brosius will bottle them for you. | 0:01:48 | 0:01:53 | |
'I think constantly about how things smell. | 0:01:54 | 0:01:58 | |
'If I'm breathing in and out, on some level I'm working | 0:02:00 | 0:02:05 | |
'because heaven knows I use a lot of things that have never before been considered as perfume. | 0:02:05 | 0:02:12 | |
'The smell of the ink that comes out of a magic marker, | 0:02:12 | 0:02:17 | |
'a box of crayons, a can of paint, | 0:02:17 | 0:02:20 | |
'certain kinds of ink, paper bags, cardboard boxes, magazines. All of these things smell terrific.' | 0:02:20 | 0:02:26 | |
# Do you know where you could be going? # | 0:02:26 | 0:02:30 | |
Brosius makes scents that smell of real things. | 0:02:41 | 0:02:45 | |
He has no truck with the mainstream fragrance industry or even most perfume wearers. | 0:02:45 | 0:02:51 | |
So many Americans want to smell clean. That is one of the reasons | 0:02:53 | 0:02:58 | |
that I Hate Perfume really came to be. | 0:02:58 | 0:03:02 | |
Americans frequently have this idea that perfume is used by the French | 0:03:02 | 0:03:07 | |
to cover up the fact that they never shower. This is utterly and completely ridiculous. | 0:03:07 | 0:03:12 | |
The French are not afraid of the way people naturally smell. | 0:03:12 | 0:03:17 | |
'In fact, sometimes perfumes are designed to really amplify that, | 0:03:17 | 0:03:22 | |
'to make that really alluring and really erotic and really attractive.' | 0:03:22 | 0:03:27 | |
One of his concoctions evokes the scent of a musky, unwashed body. | 0:03:29 | 0:03:35 | |
This one has been known to scare people. It's really a love it or hate it thing. | 0:03:36 | 0:03:42 | |
People smell it and go, "Oh, my God! I can't wear that. That's filthy!" | 0:03:42 | 0:03:46 | |
Let's see what happens with that. | 0:03:46 | 0:03:49 | |
I don't...dislike it. I mean, I'm not in love with it. | 0:03:52 | 0:03:57 | |
-Uh-huh? -But I wouldn't say I was scared of it. Actually, it smells kind of sweet to me. | 0:03:57 | 0:04:03 | |
It's interesting, smelling around the human body, that there are certain parts that smell very sweet. | 0:04:03 | 0:04:10 | |
This odd kind of sweet, spicy kind of mix. | 0:04:10 | 0:04:14 | |
And that's what that particular scent is really all about. | 0:04:14 | 0:04:19 | |
-Really? You like this? -I think it's great! | 0:04:19 | 0:04:23 | |
These scents can be challenging. Only the brave need apply them. | 0:04:24 | 0:04:29 | |
There are lots of foods, particularly meats, | 0:04:29 | 0:04:32 | |
that smell wonderful. | 0:04:32 | 0:04:35 | |
Bacon! Bacon is divine! | 0:04:35 | 0:04:38 | |
These are fantastic smells. | 0:04:38 | 0:04:41 | |
One celebrity customer hated perfume, but wanted to remember good times at the family dining table. | 0:04:41 | 0:04:48 | |
She came in here and she said, "I want something that smells good, but does not smell at all like perfume. | 0:04:48 | 0:04:55 | |
"I want this." I said roast beef? | 0:04:55 | 0:04:58 | |
Are you absolutely sure? | 0:04:58 | 0:05:01 | |
And she said, "Yes, I am. I love it." | 0:05:01 | 0:05:03 | |
And I said are you really, really, really sure? | 0:05:03 | 0:05:07 | |
And she said, "Yes." | 0:05:07 | 0:05:09 | |
Christopher Brosius finds beauty in what is real. | 0:05:09 | 0:05:13 | |
French perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena creates fragrance inspired by fantasy. | 0:05:16 | 0:05:22 | |
Ellena lives like a monk in a forest | 0:05:26 | 0:05:29 | |
with a single lab technician and the sea breeze for company. | 0:05:29 | 0:05:33 | |
He is the Obi Wan Kenobi of fragrance. | 0:05:40 | 0:05:44 | |
I want to be alone, only with my thoughts. | 0:05:45 | 0:05:49 | |
It's time to give more philosophy, to give more serenity, to give more spirit to perfumery. | 0:05:49 | 0:05:56 | |
Ellena makes olfactory masterpieces with very few, very expensive ingredients. | 0:05:57 | 0:06:03 | |
I like very much indeed the paintings of Cezanne and Matisse. | 0:06:04 | 0:06:09 | |
And I like also abstract painting. | 0:06:09 | 0:06:12 | |
I don't try to copy the reality. I don't care a damn about the reality. | 0:06:13 | 0:06:18 | |
Because the illusion is more beautiful. It's like a dream | 0:06:18 | 0:06:23 | |
and dreams are always more beautiful. | 0:06:23 | 0:06:25 | |
'Perfumery is an esoteric art. | 0:06:25 | 0:06:28 | |
'Talking to Jean-Claude, it's going to stay that way.' | 0:06:29 | 0:06:32 | |
I think it's very hard for people to understand how to talk about fragrance as well. | 0:06:32 | 0:06:39 | |
So maybe this is the best way to explain. I compare it to colours. | 0:06:39 | 0:06:44 | |
Red, dark red. Dark and warmth. | 0:06:44 | 0:06:48 | |
This is what I can do with perfume. | 0:06:48 | 0:06:51 | |
Red, to me, is also hot. Can red be cold? | 0:06:51 | 0:06:56 | |
Can red be cold? | 0:06:56 | 0:06:58 | |
-Like blue can? -Ah...can red be cold? | 0:06:58 | 0:07:03 | |
Let me think about it. | 0:07:04 | 0:07:07 | |
'If colour doesn't offer enough parallels, there's always texture.' | 0:07:07 | 0:07:11 | |
-So you're saying smells have texture? -Yeah. OK, I can take this one. | 0:07:11 | 0:07:17 | |
The thing is, here the texture is... Now it's very cold | 0:07:17 | 0:07:21 | |
because the steel is cold. | 0:07:21 | 0:07:24 | |
It's cold and smooth. | 0:07:24 | 0:07:26 | |
This is the kind of thing I can do with perfume. I can give, in this perfume, a kind of cold note, | 0:07:26 | 0:07:33 | |
quite cold, and smooth. | 0:07:34 | 0:07:37 | |
-Here it's very rough. -Yes. The concrete. -Concrete. Very rough. | 0:07:37 | 0:07:42 | |
And, of course, I can play with both. | 0:07:42 | 0:07:45 | |
Smooth and cold, harsh...and dry. Because this is very dry. | 0:07:45 | 0:07:52 | |
-And I can smell the roughness? -Of course you can smell it. | 0:07:52 | 0:07:56 | |
Ellena is the nose for French lifestyle house Hermes, | 0:07:56 | 0:08:01 | |
but allegedly doesn't have to make a whiff of anything until he feels inspired. | 0:08:01 | 0:08:07 | |
If you ask me to make what you are looking for, | 0:08:11 | 0:08:15 | |
there is a disaster already | 0:08:17 | 0:08:20 | |
because I will not offer you a surprise. | 0:08:20 | 0:08:25 | |
But if you ask me, "Give me a surprise," ah! I am ready to work | 0:08:25 | 0:08:31 | |
month and month and month | 0:08:31 | 0:08:33 | |
and sleep badly. | 0:08:33 | 0:08:36 | |
I want to give you, to share and give you something that you say, | 0:08:36 | 0:08:41 | |
"Ah! Oh, yes! Oh, yes, I like it." | 0:08:41 | 0:08:45 | |
It's not a demand, it's a gift. | 0:08:45 | 0:08:48 | |
If you like my way of doing things, | 0:08:48 | 0:08:51 | |
this is a plus. | 0:08:53 | 0:08:55 | |
But I like very much this approach because...we take the time. | 0:08:55 | 0:09:01 | |
Before he was a sorcerer, | 0:09:06 | 0:09:08 | |
Ellena was an apprentice at the school for noses. | 0:09:08 | 0:09:13 | |
Located just outside Paris, it's run by the biggest chemical company in the fragrance world - Givaudan. | 0:09:14 | 0:09:21 | |
The school trains perfumers who'll win contracts to create fragrances for big-name brands. | 0:09:23 | 0:09:29 | |
Jean-Claude Ellena went his own way. Today students are prepared for a corporate life of strict budgets | 0:09:35 | 0:09:42 | |
and stricter deadlines. | 0:09:42 | 0:09:45 | |
Many apply, few are chosen. | 0:09:49 | 0:09:52 | |
This year, there are five students. | 0:09:54 | 0:09:57 | |
Some years they don't take any. | 0:09:57 | 0:10:00 | |
The Principal is master perfumer Jean Guichard. | 0:10:03 | 0:10:07 | |
He picks the noses of the future. | 0:10:07 | 0:10:10 | |
The perfumer should be a mixture between a scientist and a poet. | 0:10:12 | 0:10:18 | |
When I meet people, I know if they have talent or not. | 0:10:20 | 0:10:25 | |
I don't want you to have people who say, "I am going to be a perfumer to make a lot of money." | 0:10:27 | 0:10:33 | |
That doesn't interest me at all. | 0:10:33 | 0:10:35 | |
Very often they say, "My dream is to be a perfumer since I am a little girl or a little boy. | 0:10:35 | 0:10:43 | |
"And my grandmother say I've got a fantastic nose," and all that, | 0:10:43 | 0:10:47 | |
but then when you look at that resume they have been doing nothing around perfume. | 0:10:47 | 0:10:54 | |
And you have some people after five minutes you are bored. | 0:10:55 | 0:10:59 | |
I say, "Well, I won't like to spend three years with them." | 0:10:59 | 0:11:04 | |
I keep that in mind. | 0:11:04 | 0:11:06 | |
Guichard wants cultured geniuses with winning personalities. | 0:11:08 | 0:11:13 | |
Could I be one? | 0:11:13 | 0:11:15 | |
We can try. | 0:11:16 | 0:11:18 | |
Quentin Biche was a country boy with a dream. | 0:11:21 | 0:11:26 | |
There were flowers everywhere at home. | 0:11:29 | 0:11:33 | |
When I was of maybe eight, nine, ten years old, I wanted to create perfume. | 0:11:33 | 0:11:40 | |
Quentin doesn't know anything about chemistry. | 0:11:40 | 0:11:43 | |
But he was interested in perfume. He came to see me once. | 0:11:43 | 0:11:48 | |
We talked about cinema... | 0:11:48 | 0:11:50 | |
It was a complete disaster. He was trying to make perfume, | 0:11:50 | 0:11:55 | |
mixing, you know, products he saw in shops. | 0:11:55 | 0:12:00 | |
After a while, I was sure that it was over. And then one Thursday afternoon, | 0:12:00 | 0:12:06 | |
I had the phone in my pocket at the time. | 0:12:06 | 0:12:09 | |
I saw the 01, so Paris. I was like, "Oh!" "Hello, it is Jean Guichard." | 0:12:09 | 0:12:15 | |
So I pre-selected him. | 0:12:15 | 0:12:17 | |
He told me, "If you're still interested..." And that was it. | 0:12:17 | 0:12:21 | |
-I think he's got a lot of talent. -I was hired. | 0:12:21 | 0:12:25 | |
I'm sorry. | 0:12:29 | 0:12:31 | |
It's remarkable. | 0:12:31 | 0:12:33 | |
I'm really lucky. | 0:12:36 | 0:12:39 | |
We know in the school how to teach the technique. We don't know how to teach creativity. | 0:12:39 | 0:12:44 | |
'Linda Song had the right stuff, despite her disadvantaged upbringing.' | 0:12:46 | 0:12:51 | |
I grew up in a small town called Greeley in Colorado. | 0:12:51 | 0:12:55 | |
Anybody in Colorado who knows it, their first reaction is, "Oh!" | 0:12:58 | 0:13:03 | |
It was very different from Paris. It's funny. I tried to send flowers to my mom for Mother's Day | 0:13:04 | 0:13:11 | |
and especially with being here and exposed to so many different seasonal flowers, | 0:13:11 | 0:13:17 | |
I had all these grand ideas of what I was going to send her. That's just not available in Colorado! | 0:13:17 | 0:13:24 | |
In the hall, a cabinet of liquid trophies. | 0:13:30 | 0:13:34 | |
They are all products made by people trained by us. | 0:13:35 | 0:13:39 | |
What do we have? Poison by Christian Dior, Lou Lou from Cacharel, | 0:13:39 | 0:13:44 | |
we've got Obsession from Calvin Klein, | 0:13:44 | 0:13:48 | |
we've got L'Air du Temps, | 0:13:48 | 0:13:51 | |
and this one also is doing very well at the moment. | 0:13:51 | 0:13:55 | |
That is One Million from Paco Rabanne. | 0:13:55 | 0:13:59 | |
We say, you know, that one third of the products created in the world | 0:14:01 | 0:14:06 | |
are created by people trained by our school. | 0:14:06 | 0:14:10 | |
One day, I'm sure it will be their products that will be there. For sure. | 0:14:10 | 0:14:17 | |
Right now, the students can only dream of creating scents that will make perfume history, | 0:14:17 | 0:14:23 | |
that will carry us back to other times, places, | 0:14:23 | 0:14:27 | |
and people. | 0:14:27 | 0:14:29 | |
It makes me think of first love. | 0:14:33 | 0:14:35 | |
It makes me think of... | 0:14:37 | 0:14:40 | |
..being sixteen. | 0:14:41 | 0:14:43 | |
The first time I smelt this, | 0:14:46 | 0:14:48 | |
it was on a 17-year-old boy when I was 16 years old. | 0:14:48 | 0:14:53 | |
And I was at school. | 0:14:53 | 0:14:56 | |
He was an absolutely beautiful boy. I'm sure he still is. | 0:14:56 | 0:15:00 | |
And I just assumed when I got close to him and smelt him | 0:15:00 | 0:15:04 | |
that this was naturally what he smelt like. | 0:15:04 | 0:15:08 | |
I just thought some boys were born magically fragrant and lovely. | 0:15:08 | 0:15:12 | |
It was a big shock to find out he was wearing this. | 0:15:12 | 0:15:16 | |
It was a defining scent for me | 0:15:16 | 0:15:19 | |
in terms of how...intoxicating scent can be. | 0:15:19 | 0:15:24 | |
In all honesty, I still have yet to find another male scent that matches this. | 0:15:27 | 0:15:33 | |
The fantasy of what men could be like didn't match up to the reality of men. | 0:15:33 | 0:15:39 | |
I don't think I've ever come across a man who encapsulates everything that I smelt in this, | 0:15:39 | 0:15:45 | |
that I thought men could be. So far. It could change. | 0:15:45 | 0:15:49 | |
Christopher Brosius is in the business of evoking memories. | 0:15:57 | 0:16:02 | |
He profits from the sense of loss that fragrance exploits. | 0:16:02 | 0:16:06 | |
# I remember sky... # | 0:16:09 | 0:16:13 | |
Scent is really about emotion. | 0:16:13 | 0:16:15 | |
There is an enormous connection between scent and memory. | 0:16:16 | 0:16:21 | |
# Or at least I think... # | 0:16:26 | 0:16:31 | |
People smell something and they immediately flash on an experience that they've had. | 0:16:34 | 0:16:40 | |
The smell actually evokes the emotion that you felt at the time | 0:16:44 | 0:16:50 | |
that you were experiencing the thing that became the memory. | 0:16:50 | 0:16:54 | |
# Sharp as thumb tacks Coming down like... # | 0:16:54 | 0:17:00 | |
You know, when people, without, you know, | 0:17:00 | 0:17:03 | |
really thinking it or expecting it, pick up a bottle and suddenly they are really transfixed. | 0:17:03 | 0:17:09 | |
They are in a different place and a different time and feeling something they'd utterly forgotten, | 0:17:09 | 0:17:16 | |
but suddenly in this simple little bottle, here it is again. | 0:17:16 | 0:17:20 | |
I have clients who keep them kind of as a modern smelling salt. | 0:17:20 | 0:17:25 | |
If they're in their office and their boss is being more than a little demanding or incredibly difficult, | 0:17:25 | 0:17:32 | |
they can take a bottle out of their desk drawer or their bag | 0:17:32 | 0:17:36 | |
and smell it and, at least for a few brief seconds, they have a break. They're somewhere else. | 0:17:36 | 0:17:43 | |
They feel better. | 0:17:43 | 0:17:45 | |
Brosius has his own way of recovering times past. | 0:17:45 | 0:17:49 | |
This is... the makings of... | 0:17:49 | 0:17:55 | |
A Memory of Kindness, | 0:17:55 | 0:17:57 | |
which is a perfume that is very, very important to me. | 0:17:57 | 0:18:02 | |
It's really the smell of tomato leaves and tomato vines growing in a garden. | 0:18:02 | 0:18:09 | |
I wanted that smell. Tomato leaves. | 0:18:09 | 0:18:12 | |
One of the earliest memories I have is of... | 0:18:12 | 0:18:16 | |
creeping very quietly | 0:18:16 | 0:18:19 | |
one summer afternoon. | 0:18:19 | 0:18:22 | |
I crawled under the tomato vines in my aunt's garden. | 0:18:25 | 0:18:30 | |
-# -It was a very good year... -# | 0:18:31 | 0:18:35 | |
I'm sitting... in the dirt, under the vines, | 0:18:35 | 0:18:40 | |
which to a small child seemed kind of like a jungle. | 0:18:40 | 0:18:45 | |
You know, it's like wild and it's another country in there. | 0:18:45 | 0:18:50 | |
And... | 0:18:50 | 0:18:51 | |
You know, when I was a child in the country, gardens were important, particularly vegetable ones. | 0:18:52 | 0:18:58 | |
They fed the family, frequently, so they were really not to be messed with. | 0:18:58 | 0:19:03 | |
And, you know, a lot of people would have scolded a child for going in there, | 0:19:03 | 0:19:09 | |
but my aunt, that was not her way. | 0:19:09 | 0:19:12 | |
She gave me a cookie and... I realised, you know, | 0:19:14 | 0:19:19 | |
she is perhaps the kindest person I've ever known. | 0:19:19 | 0:19:25 | |
And, um, | 0:19:26 | 0:19:28 | |
so much of my childhood are memories involving her | 0:19:28 | 0:19:33 | |
and that just all-pervading sense of kindness. | 0:19:33 | 0:19:38 | |
And it all comes back to the smell of a tomato leaf. | 0:19:38 | 0:19:43 | |
-# -Who lived up the stairs... -# | 0:19:43 | 0:19:47 | |
So that's what that perfume is really all about. | 0:19:47 | 0:19:51 | |
-# -With all that perfume in the air... -# | 0:19:51 | 0:19:54 | |
-I can see you are transported as you smell this. -Mm-hm. | 0:19:55 | 0:20:00 | |
-Is that what people come to you wanting to experience? -Yes. | 0:20:02 | 0:20:07 | |
-Transport? -Yes. | 0:20:07 | 0:20:09 | |
Yes. | 0:20:11 | 0:20:12 | |
-# -Bali Hai call you... -# | 0:20:12 | 0:20:17 | |
A few streets away across Brooklyn is the home of fashion designer Sean Crowley. | 0:20:17 | 0:20:24 | |
-# -In your heart you'll hear it call you... -# | 0:20:24 | 0:20:30 | |
He's American, but pines constantly for an England that vanished somewhere around 1930. | 0:20:30 | 0:20:37 | |
Having an English grandfather who was an Anglophile himself, | 0:20:38 | 0:20:43 | |
growing up with lots of old things around, getting to know the comfort of a nice kind of worn-in thing, | 0:20:43 | 0:20:50 | |
really sort of gave me the bug for all things English. | 0:20:50 | 0:20:57 | |
-A bit of a mug. -Another one. | 0:20:57 | 0:20:59 | |
A pot with a handle. | 0:20:59 | 0:21:01 | |
And thank you. It's complete. | 0:21:01 | 0:21:04 | |
Crowley loves old Albion as only someone who doesn't live there can. | 0:21:05 | 0:21:11 | |
He's got everything but the smell. | 0:21:11 | 0:21:14 | |
There's an unmistakeably British weird, fusty, musty old smell. | 0:21:14 | 0:21:20 | |
That I love. I don't know how you bottle that. | 0:21:20 | 0:21:23 | |
I mean, the kinds of things I imagine. Tweed has a very distinctive smell. | 0:21:23 | 0:21:29 | |
Certainly when it gets wet, it becomes quite pungent. | 0:21:29 | 0:21:33 | |
It smells like a wet dog. If you could make it work, I'd wear it. | 0:21:37 | 0:21:41 | |
I don't have a fragrance at the moment. | 0:21:41 | 0:21:46 | |
Christopher Brosius is renowned locally for his alchemy. | 0:21:46 | 0:21:51 | |
Crowley wants a scent that will take him across the sea without the inconvenience of leaving home. | 0:21:51 | 0:21:57 | |
His vision may be a bit Sherlock Holmes, but it's a start. | 0:21:57 | 0:22:02 | |
Brosius seems to be thinking more Bonnie Prince Charlie. | 0:22:04 | 0:22:08 | |
-# -Some day | 0:22:08 | 0:22:11 | |
-# -You'll see me... -# | 0:22:11 | 0:22:14 | |
Yay! | 0:22:21 | 0:22:23 | |
Mmm. | 0:22:27 | 0:22:28 | |
-So what is it that you're after? -Well... | 0:22:28 | 0:22:32 | |
-I mean, I'm an Anglophile. -Mm-hm. | 0:22:32 | 0:22:36 | |
I love old musty things. | 0:22:36 | 0:22:39 | |
I'm a bit of an Anglophile myself. | 0:22:39 | 0:22:42 | |
-Forgiven. -Let's discuss your experience of England. | 0:22:42 | 0:22:47 | |
-Well? -Things like... You know, pipe tobacco. -Mm-hm. | 0:22:47 | 0:22:52 | |
-But where do you really smell it when you're there? -Out of the pipe that I'm smoking. | 0:22:52 | 0:22:58 | |
-That YOU are smoking? -Yes. -OK. | 0:22:58 | 0:23:00 | |
-Cobblestones... -OK. -..are in evidence. -OK. -Wet tweed sleeve. | 0:23:00 | 0:23:06 | |
That's one you should work on. | 0:23:06 | 0:23:08 | |
-Of, you know, like an old army great coat... -OK. | 0:23:08 | 0:23:13 | |
-..packed in a crate for 60 years... -Yeah. -..kind of smell. | 0:23:13 | 0:23:18 | |
-That is a strangely pleasant and distinctively English smell. -That makes sense. | 0:23:18 | 0:23:23 | |
-I love the smell of old books. -You took the words out of my mouth. | 0:23:23 | 0:23:28 | |
Well, put that one down. Old books. That was on there. | 0:23:28 | 0:23:32 | |
Is there anything else you can think of that really means England to you? | 0:23:32 | 0:23:37 | |
Whisky. Scotch. | 0:23:37 | 0:23:39 | |
Mm-hm. All of these things really do fit together. It would make a very, very nice smell. | 0:23:40 | 0:23:47 | |
Before they can create any fragrance, students at the nose school must absorb | 0:23:52 | 0:23:59 | |
a great body of knowledge about scented raw materials, man-made and natural elements, | 0:23:59 | 0:24:04 | |
animal, mineral and vegetable. | 0:24:04 | 0:24:07 | |
In midsummer, Jean Guichard takes his pupils to Provence to study lavender. | 0:24:10 | 0:24:17 | |
You know, they have to see the plant and maybe, you know, looking at the plant in the natural, | 0:24:19 | 0:24:26 | |
when they work with lavender, it is not something abstract. | 0:24:26 | 0:24:31 | |
That might give them, you know, some idea for, you know, a project or whatever. | 0:24:31 | 0:24:37 | |
Lavender is a key note in a whole class of scents - the ferns or fougeres. | 0:24:38 | 0:24:45 | |
There is one family very important. It is fougere, fern. | 0:24:45 | 0:24:50 | |
That family is very successful for men. A big example are the old Brut from Faberge, | 0:24:50 | 0:24:57 | |
Paco Rabanne for men, One Million. | 0:24:57 | 0:25:01 | |
I always tell them work, work, work, but don't work like a rat in a lab | 0:25:06 | 0:25:12 | |
because you won't have the ideas. | 0:25:12 | 0:25:15 | |
-Can you hear the bees? -Ah, oui. The bees. | 0:25:15 | 0:25:20 | |
I like to be here alone with no noise around. | 0:25:32 | 0:25:36 | |
No people talking, no cars. Just to hear the... | 0:25:36 | 0:25:40 | |
To sleep in the middle of the field | 0:25:40 | 0:25:44 | |
and think about the next future lavender. | 0:25:44 | 0:25:48 | |
Not all ladies, but young ladies. Young ladies, yeah. | 0:25:48 | 0:25:52 | |
Beautiful young ladies. | 0:25:52 | 0:25:54 | |
So that is clary sage. Clary sage. We use that also in perfumery. | 0:26:09 | 0:26:14 | |
It is a raw material that is very successful for men's products. | 0:26:14 | 0:26:19 | |
And some people like, you know, that smell very much. | 0:26:19 | 0:26:24 | |
But very often we say it is a bit sweaty, it smells like sweat, but not female sweat. Male sweat. | 0:26:24 | 0:26:30 | |
Do you like the smell of it? | 0:26:30 | 0:26:33 | |
Em... | 0:26:33 | 0:26:35 | |
-Not. -No? Yes, you like? | 0:26:35 | 0:26:38 | |
Yes, usually it is very controversial. | 0:26:38 | 0:26:43 | |
After a few days in the sunshine, the students appreciate the value of getting out of the lab. | 0:26:43 | 0:26:50 | |
Jean-Claude Ellena is also out of the lab, looking for inspiration | 0:26:54 | 0:27:00 | |
and finding it in Paris. | 0:27:00 | 0:27:03 | |
'On the top of the Hermes boutique, | 0:27:12 | 0:27:14 | |
'on the roof, we have a small garden. | 0:27:14 | 0:27:17 | |
'Nobody knows from the streets that we have a garden in the top. | 0:27:17 | 0:27:22 | |
'It's a very peaceful place. It's another world. | 0:27:23 | 0:27:27 | |
'So I play with that.' | 0:27:27 | 0:27:29 | |
Ellena has made the relationship between man and nature a theme of his recent fragrances. | 0:27:35 | 0:27:42 | |
And we have a pear. Pear trees here. That smells wonderful. | 0:27:43 | 0:27:48 | |
Roses here. | 0:27:48 | 0:27:50 | |
We have magnolia. Magnolia, yeah? | 0:27:50 | 0:27:54 | |
These then will be the elements in the perfume Garden On The Roof, | 0:27:55 | 0:28:00 | |
next in a series of fragrances inspired by exotic gardens. | 0:28:00 | 0:28:05 | |
Back in the south, Ellena visits specialist chemical suppliers | 0:28:08 | 0:28:12 | |
to order minute quantities of raw materials for his experiments. | 0:28:12 | 0:28:17 | |
If any of these make it into his finished perfume, | 0:28:17 | 0:28:21 | |
the order will be measured in hundreds of kilos, costing thousands of euros. | 0:28:21 | 0:28:27 | |
Back at his desk in the woods, the juices start to flow. | 0:28:29 | 0:28:33 | |
Here begins the story. | 0:28:48 | 0:28:51 | |
And for me it's not a perfume yet. | 0:28:55 | 0:28:58 | |
Maybe I have to bring in this perfume | 0:28:58 | 0:29:02 | |
the feeling of the sun. | 0:29:02 | 0:29:05 | |
The feeling of the dew of the morning. | 0:29:06 | 0:29:09 | |
Once he starts, there's no stopping Ellena. | 0:29:09 | 0:29:13 | |
Ideas tumble out and technician Anne Maynard turns every one into a chemical sketch. | 0:29:14 | 0:29:21 | |
-Anne? -Oui? | 0:29:21 | 0:29:23 | |
-Here are...all the... How do you say? -Tries. -Tries. | 0:29:27 | 0:29:32 | |
-And this is about three weeks' work. -All of this is three weeks' work? | 0:29:32 | 0:29:38 | |
Yes, mm-hm. | 0:29:38 | 0:29:39 | |
Per day, Jean-Claude can make... | 0:29:39 | 0:29:43 | |
..like, 10 or 12, maximum, tries like this. | 0:29:44 | 0:29:48 | |
-When you say you often clean it...? -Because it's full. | 0:29:48 | 0:29:53 | |
-And I need to be... -Yes. -To keep them like this. | 0:29:53 | 0:29:56 | |
-I like to clean. -Yes, but when you say clean I have a horrible feeling you mean throw them away. | 0:29:56 | 0:30:03 | |
-Yes, exactly. -Any one of these could turn out to be a classic fragrance | 0:30:03 | 0:30:09 | |
-that the world would love. -Yeah, but I have to decide. | 0:30:09 | 0:30:13 | |
-I have to decide. -But...but some of those could be another Eau Sauvage or a Shalimar. | 0:30:14 | 0:30:22 | |
-Or... -Maybe, maybe. | 0:30:22 | 0:30:25 | |
I'm very shocked by that cupboard. | 0:30:25 | 0:30:28 | |
In there. Great things, never to see the light of day. | 0:30:28 | 0:30:32 | |
'This is what makes great perfume so costly. | 0:30:36 | 0:30:39 | |
'The ingredients are expensive, development's a fortune | 0:30:39 | 0:30:44 | |
'and the creator kills all his babies. | 0:30:44 | 0:30:48 | |
'When it does emerge, this fragrance will become someone's scent signature, | 0:30:49 | 0:30:55 | |
'provoking memories of them whenever it's smelled for ever after.' | 0:30:55 | 0:31:01 | |
I'm outside of my parents' bedroom. She had like a dressing room, | 0:31:01 | 0:31:06 | |
my mother. Before she went out at night, there just would always be this lovely, warm smell. | 0:31:06 | 0:31:12 | |
It evokes in me... | 0:31:14 | 0:31:16 | |
..associations with glamour, of when my mum was getting ready. | 0:31:18 | 0:31:23 | |
A child's vision of a most beautiful princess. That was my mother. | 0:31:23 | 0:31:27 | |
And so, I suppose, it... that scent... | 0:31:27 | 0:31:32 | |
encapsulated not only memories of my mother, but... | 0:31:32 | 0:31:37 | |
also evoked feelings of safety and comfort, I suppose. | 0:31:37 | 0:31:42 | |
To work their magic, perfumers at the nose school must learn to recognise a vast palette | 0:31:47 | 0:31:53 | |
of scent notes. | 0:31:53 | 0:31:55 | |
In their three years here, they don't actually make any fragrance. | 0:31:55 | 0:31:59 | |
It's just one giant chemistry lesson. | 0:31:59 | 0:32:03 | |
First, I mean they've got to learn, you know, the raw materials. It's like the alphabet. | 0:32:03 | 0:32:09 | |
All scents are a combination of odorous chemical elements suspended in alcohol. | 0:32:09 | 0:32:15 | |
There's a lot to learn. | 0:32:15 | 0:32:17 | |
You have to memorise about 500 raw materials. | 0:32:17 | 0:32:22 | |
And to learn how to mix them in order to create something good. | 0:32:22 | 0:32:27 | |
Along with endless smelling, there are countless tests. | 0:32:28 | 0:32:32 | |
Quentin is the only student with no previous experience of chemistry. | 0:32:35 | 0:32:41 | |
What I don't like is when they come to see me without having worked enough. | 0:32:41 | 0:32:47 | |
Then they will lose time and I get upset. | 0:32:47 | 0:32:51 | |
He's been given the task of identifying individual ingredients in solution | 0:32:51 | 0:32:57 | |
and deciding their relative concentrations. | 0:32:57 | 0:33:01 | |
What amount did you have to find? | 0:33:03 | 0:33:06 | |
-10 for the coriander. -That's OK. | 0:33:06 | 0:33:09 | |
-Black pepper, five. -That's OK as well. | 0:33:11 | 0:33:15 | |
-Nutmeg, I say 10. -That's OK as well. -OK. | 0:33:15 | 0:33:20 | |
Missing a woody product, you know... | 0:33:20 | 0:33:24 | |
Not very far from cedar wood. | 0:33:25 | 0:33:27 | |
OK. | 0:33:30 | 0:33:31 | |
-Could it be kephalis? -No. -Cedrol? -It is, yes. Very good. | 0:33:32 | 0:33:37 | |
-I had a really hard time finding them. -He's a good student. | 0:33:37 | 0:33:42 | |
'My dream is to smell a perfume I have created on somebody who is in the street or subway or theatre.' | 0:33:42 | 0:33:50 | |
And that's...that's that's the dream. | 0:33:50 | 0:33:54 | |
Linda is further along the course and has a more complex task - | 0:33:55 | 0:33:59 | |
dissecting the chemical elements of accords or blends of notes. | 0:33:59 | 0:34:04 | |
Linda, she has learnt the raw materials. Now she learns how to mix them. | 0:34:04 | 0:34:09 | |
Hedione and Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde? | 0:34:23 | 0:34:26 | |
On this one, | 0:34:27 | 0:34:30 | |
in fact, there are three raw materials. | 0:34:30 | 0:34:33 | |
-And you have identified two out of three? -Yes. | 0:34:33 | 0:34:37 | |
-So I identified eco essence... -Yes. | 0:34:37 | 0:34:41 | |
-And isoraldeine 70. -Yes, very good. | 0:34:41 | 0:34:45 | |
-And what is the third one? -Linalyl acetate 114, | 0:34:45 | 0:34:49 | |
benzyl acetate 116, oil 117 | 0:34:49 | 0:34:53 | |
and indoline 118. | 0:34:53 | 0:34:55 | |
Perfect. Very good. Very good. | 0:34:55 | 0:34:58 | |
So this one, it was difficult for you to find indoline? | 0:34:58 | 0:35:02 | |
-Yes. -Yeah. | 0:35:02 | 0:35:04 | |
I find a lot of them very difficult! | 0:35:05 | 0:35:08 | |
And... | 0:35:11 | 0:35:13 | |
149 to 153? | 0:35:13 | 0:35:16 | |
I was missing one raw material. | 0:35:16 | 0:35:19 | |
If you don't know your raw materials perfectly, then you are losing your time. | 0:35:19 | 0:35:25 | |
The investment in this tiny student body is enormous. | 0:35:26 | 0:35:30 | |
They're recruited to fill specific positions in the Givaudan empire, | 0:35:31 | 0:35:37 | |
jobs that will be waiting for them when, if, they graduate. | 0:35:37 | 0:35:41 | |
Christopher Brosius is in London. He's researching its signature smells | 0:35:49 | 0:35:55 | |
for Sean Crowley's British scent. | 0:35:55 | 0:35:58 | |
'England, for me, is a real sense of eternity.' | 0:36:03 | 0:36:07 | |
-# -Lays me down with my mind she runs... -# | 0:36:07 | 0:36:12 | |
There's an underlying English smell here which I recognise as London. | 0:36:12 | 0:36:17 | |
Kind of dirty, urban smell. | 0:36:17 | 0:36:20 | |
It's been a while and things have changed. | 0:36:20 | 0:36:24 | |
The perfumer's scent memories are unreliable. | 0:36:24 | 0:36:28 | |
It's really just boring. The old ones had leather seats. | 0:36:28 | 0:36:33 | |
You know, so they had an inherent smell of their own. | 0:36:33 | 0:36:37 | |
I think from, you know, just like a decade or so of people riding in them | 0:36:37 | 0:36:43 | |
the leather was soaked with a much more interesting smell. | 0:36:43 | 0:36:47 | |
'It's changed a lot. There are a lot of things I've noticed that are very different.' | 0:36:54 | 0:37:01 | |
See now? It doesn't smell the same. | 0:37:06 | 0:37:09 | |
I was expecting a more diesel kind of smell. | 0:37:09 | 0:37:13 | |
-# -Never a frown with golden brown... -# | 0:37:13 | 0:37:18 | |
RUMBLE OF THUNDER | 0:37:24 | 0:37:26 | |
The scent of phonebooks hanging in the phone boxes. | 0:37:28 | 0:37:32 | |
They were always there on the chain, generally battered to hell. | 0:37:32 | 0:37:36 | |
A couple smelt absolutely dreadful. Apparently, there was no public gentleman's convenience nearby. | 0:37:41 | 0:37:47 | |
I realised that that phonebook smell is gone. | 0:37:50 | 0:37:55 | |
It's...just like the dodo. A thing of the past. | 0:37:56 | 0:38:00 | |
Client Sean Crowley was thinking mildewed frock coats and hansom cabs, but they're extinct. | 0:38:04 | 0:38:10 | |
At least the pubs are still clinging on. | 0:38:10 | 0:38:14 | |
Could I have a pint of Black Sheep, please? | 0:38:14 | 0:38:18 | |
'There is only the smell of beer in here. | 0:38:18 | 0:38:22 | |
'There is no longer the smell of smoke. | 0:38:22 | 0:38:26 | |
'I remember when I was much younger, the first pub that I ever went into, you could barely see the barkeep!' | 0:38:26 | 0:38:33 | |
It's a very London thing. | 0:38:37 | 0:38:40 | |
The problem is... | 0:38:42 | 0:38:44 | |
this is not something | 0:38:44 | 0:38:47 | |
that is going to translate well into something that can be worn. | 0:38:48 | 0:38:53 | |
Think about the scent of Stilton cheese. It's a wonderful smell. | 0:38:53 | 0:38:58 | |
You would not want to be anywhere near a person who smelled like Stilton cheese! | 0:38:58 | 0:39:05 | |
They're not things that you can really put on the human body | 0:39:07 | 0:39:11 | |
and it's gonna smell alluring in any way. | 0:39:11 | 0:39:16 | |
I have a client who's an actress with a director that she'd never worked with before. | 0:39:16 | 0:39:22 | |
Apparently, on the first day of rehearsal, he pulled her aside | 0:39:22 | 0:39:26 | |
and said, "Drinking isn't going to be a problem with you, is it?" | 0:39:26 | 0:39:30 | |
And she said, "No! Why do you ask?" | 0:39:30 | 0:39:32 | |
He said, "You really smell like whisky a lot." | 0:39:32 | 0:39:37 | |
And she said, "Oh, no, no! It's my perfume!" | 0:39:37 | 0:39:41 | |
And she had to bring him the bottle to show so that he would believe her. | 0:39:41 | 0:39:46 | |
And I thought, "Oh, you know, that's not something that I'd really considered before." | 0:39:46 | 0:39:52 | |
-But it's something to be mindful of. -Was it one of your perfumes? -Yes. | 0:39:52 | 0:39:58 | |
Alcohol is risky. | 0:39:59 | 0:40:01 | |
Dairy is a no no. | 0:40:01 | 0:40:03 | |
Sean Crowley's scent may be unattainable. | 0:40:03 | 0:40:07 | |
'The smell of a bus seat, the scent of wet London pavement, | 0:40:08 | 0:40:14 | |
'the inside of a taxi cab. You know, I need to be able to have all those little bits and pieces | 0:40:14 | 0:40:20 | |
'that can be assembled to create something that is really, for Sean, | 0:40:20 | 0:40:25 | |
'his ultimate London experience.' | 0:40:25 | 0:40:28 | |
Much of what perfumer and client were after has evaporated over time, | 0:40:29 | 0:40:35 | |
but there is one smell that will be forever England. | 0:40:35 | 0:40:40 | |
You know what? Different books from different countries smell slightly different from different periods. | 0:41:12 | 0:41:18 | |
English books have a very particular smell because it's so... | 0:41:18 | 0:41:24 | |
humid here. | 0:41:24 | 0:41:26 | |
It really does kind of saturate things. | 0:41:27 | 0:41:31 | |
These are books that lived in libraries where it was humid | 0:41:31 | 0:41:37 | |
for decade upon decade upon decade. | 0:41:37 | 0:41:41 | |
For heaven's sake. | 0:41:44 | 0:41:46 | |
Or there was a wood fire that was burned routinely. All of that soaks into the paper, binding and glue. | 0:41:46 | 0:41:54 | |
These English books smell like England because that's where they are. | 0:41:55 | 0:42:00 | |
Could a book from the right era have the right smell? | 0:42:00 | 0:42:04 | |
Does an edition of Bleak House smell of old floorboards? | 0:42:04 | 0:42:08 | |
-We have some of Dickens' first editions. -Oh, really? | 0:42:08 | 0:42:13 | |
-Interesting. Could I just smell one of those? -Of course. | 0:42:13 | 0:42:17 | |
'What I'll be doing for Sean is creating things that are a London that no longer exists.' | 0:42:17 | 0:42:24 | |
Oh, I see! | 0:42:24 | 0:42:26 | |
'A PG Wodehouse experience of England.' | 0:42:26 | 0:42:30 | |
-1862. -Mm-hm. | 0:42:30 | 0:42:32 | |
In September, Jean-Claude Ellena takes his ideas for the garden on the roof scent | 0:42:38 | 0:42:45 | |
to his employers in Paris. | 0:42:45 | 0:42:47 | |
This fragrance must be a liquid expression of quality, craft and provenance. | 0:42:50 | 0:42:55 | |
Wearers must smell it and know it's more than just expensive. | 0:42:55 | 0:43:00 | |
He may have complete creative freedom, but even Ellena has a client to please - | 0:43:04 | 0:43:10 | |
the general manager of Hermes Perfumes, Catherine Fulconis. | 0:43:10 | 0:43:15 | |
FROM FRENCH: | 0:43:16 | 0:43:19 | |
Ellena has brought two possible versions of his scent, romantically named 52 and 53. | 0:43:25 | 0:43:32 | |
Now Ellena reveals a surprise - a third scent idea, | 0:44:31 | 0:44:35 | |
something that survived the cleaning out of his cupboard. | 0:44:35 | 0:44:40 | |
The philosopher nose will return to his forest to adjust, refine and dream some more. | 0:45:49 | 0:45:55 | |
Christopher Brosius is about to offer thoughts on the smell of Britain to his client, Sean Crowley. | 0:46:03 | 0:46:10 | |
He's memorised the smells of London and recreated them with a mix of ingredients | 0:46:12 | 0:46:17 | |
sourced from chemical companies. | 0:46:17 | 0:46:20 | |
The army great coast that he mentioned was very intriguing to me, | 0:46:22 | 0:46:27 | |
although I know that fabric smells have been a big challenge to really get right. | 0:46:27 | 0:46:34 | |
It's one of those kinds of smells | 0:46:34 | 0:46:37 | |
that the perfume industry overlooks. | 0:46:37 | 0:46:41 | |
It's like they're not interested in the smell of wool or tweed or cotton or silk. | 0:46:41 | 0:46:47 | |
They want things that are pretty, like flowers, fruits, trees. | 0:46:47 | 0:46:52 | |
The challenge is always do the aroma chemicals exist | 0:46:53 | 0:46:58 | |
that I can use to put this together? | 0:46:58 | 0:47:01 | |
Cos for them it's about, naturally, what is commercially viable. | 0:47:01 | 0:47:05 | |
And what they... Commercially viable, in this country particularly, means easy. | 0:47:05 | 0:47:12 | |
"What can we make a lot of and sell a ton of without really having to do anything about it?" Lovin' that(!) | 0:47:12 | 0:47:19 | |
It's been five months since Sean Crowley was last here. | 0:47:22 | 0:47:26 | |
He's ready to smell Britain. | 0:47:26 | 0:47:29 | |
'It would be nice to have a little jar on a table and just pick it up | 0:47:29 | 0:47:34 | |
'and have a remembrance, but I'd really like it to be something that I could wear. | 0:47:34 | 0:47:41 | |
'I mean, I think that would be the ideal.' | 0:47:41 | 0:47:44 | |
So essentially what we're going to do is sit down and we'll start with the prime note | 0:47:44 | 0:47:50 | |
and play with a whole bunch of blotters and I'll make more notes | 0:47:50 | 0:47:55 | |
-so that the accords can be then specifically made to... -To just him? -Yes, exactly. | 0:47:55 | 0:48:02 | |
This is a tobacco absolute. | 0:48:03 | 0:48:06 | |
You can sort of see... | 0:48:07 | 0:48:09 | |
-..kind of like where that's going. -Oh, yeah. | 0:48:11 | 0:48:15 | |
-It smells like a pipe after you've... -Yes. | 0:48:15 | 0:48:21 | |
Let's have a whiff of the firewood, which is very much an English drawing room fireplace | 0:48:21 | 0:48:28 | |
that I thought might be some of the background for that men's club idea. | 0:48:28 | 0:48:35 | |
Oh, yeah. That's nice. | 0:48:35 | 0:48:38 | |
We didn't talk about gin very much. Any thoughts on that? | 0:48:39 | 0:48:44 | |
Em...yes, please. | 0:48:44 | 0:48:46 | |
OK! | 0:48:46 | 0:48:47 | |
Cos I have to say that that is one scent that... | 0:48:47 | 0:48:52 | |
a lot of my English clientele, boy, do they get it! | 0:48:52 | 0:48:56 | |
-London dry gin... -Hmm. | 0:48:56 | 0:48:59 | |
It's funny. I was in a pub, a nice, old, proper English pub | 0:48:59 | 0:49:03 | |
and it was the first one I'd been into for a while, certainly since the smoking ban. | 0:49:03 | 0:49:09 | |
Well, that wonderful sort of fusty, smoky, tobacco-y, | 0:49:09 | 0:49:14 | |
cut a little piece off and take it home atmosphere has gone. | 0:49:14 | 0:49:18 | |
-They call that progress. -We'll get that kind of like human carpet smell, why not? | 0:49:19 | 0:49:26 | |
I like again that faintly mouldy, | 0:49:26 | 0:49:30 | |
earthy quality. | 0:49:30 | 0:49:33 | |
-It's like an animal smell. -Mm-hm. | 0:49:33 | 0:49:36 | |
-Absolutely right. You can smell it? -Yeah. -Good. It's called wet sheep. -Oh. | 0:49:36 | 0:49:42 | |
It's like the downmarket is just what you want sometimes. | 0:49:42 | 0:49:46 | |
You want the Cadbury smell. You want... What's my favourite one in England? Fairy Liquid! | 0:49:46 | 0:49:53 | |
-Dish-washing liquid. -OK. | 0:49:53 | 0:49:55 | |
-Those are important. -I just noticed - porcelain? -Mm-hm. | 0:49:56 | 0:50:00 | |
-A tough note. -Mm. | 0:50:01 | 0:50:04 | |
There will be more blending and shaping before the scent is ready, | 0:50:04 | 0:50:09 | |
but it's possible to smell a rough sketch now. | 0:50:09 | 0:50:13 | |
This is a lot. | 0:50:13 | 0:50:16 | |
-Somewhere in that cloud is England. -Yeah. Sure. | 0:50:24 | 0:50:28 | |
I'm definitely getting, like you said, lots of... | 0:50:33 | 0:50:37 | |
-Green. -..green, vegetable kind of... | 0:50:37 | 0:50:40 | |
-Is the chocolate in there? The Cadbury? -It is. | 0:50:40 | 0:50:45 | |
-That's great. Thank you. -Sure. What I would need to do then is go back with these notes, | 0:50:45 | 0:50:51 | |
-further refine those core English ideas. -Mm. | 0:50:51 | 0:50:56 | |
-I'll put those together into...perfume! -Right. -Mm-hm. | 0:50:56 | 0:51:01 | |
Anglomania. | 0:51:01 | 0:51:02 | |
Perfume is always an art about time. | 0:51:02 | 0:51:06 | |
It takes times to create it, | 0:51:06 | 0:51:08 | |
it takes time to... think about it, | 0:51:08 | 0:51:12 | |
it takes time to really have it on the skin telling its story. | 0:51:12 | 0:51:17 | |
All of these things are about time. | 0:51:17 | 0:51:20 | |
In the modern world, time is a luxury that is not cheap. | 0:51:20 | 0:51:24 | |
'It's like having a suit made, | 0:51:27 | 0:51:30 | |
'but much longer! Having multiple fittings and going back | 0:51:30 | 0:51:34 | |
'and smelling and refining and tweaking.' | 0:51:34 | 0:51:38 | |
A bespoke perfume like this costs in excess of 2,000. | 0:51:39 | 0:51:44 | |
'It just adds one more layer to your life. | 0:51:46 | 0:51:51 | |
'You know, it's something that you look for that you didn't look for before, in this case smells, | 0:51:51 | 0:51:58 | |
'fragrances. And, I guess, fragrances from unlikely places.' | 0:51:58 | 0:52:03 | |
And so I really hope that maybe through this | 0:52:03 | 0:52:08 | |
we can actually find something that reeks of England. | 0:52:08 | 0:52:13 | |
It's going to be a long haul, but I look forward to it. | 0:52:13 | 0:52:17 | |
At the Parisian nose school, the students are aquiver. | 0:52:24 | 0:52:28 | |
They're about to meet a famous old boy, a man who once was what they are now. | 0:52:28 | 0:52:34 | |
Outside, master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena is just another face in the crowd. | 0:52:39 | 0:52:45 | |
In here, he's a god. | 0:52:45 | 0:52:47 | |
One of the big perfumers. Wow. | 0:52:48 | 0:52:51 | |
It's like meeting a celebrity. | 0:52:53 | 0:52:56 | |
I was the first student of the school. The first one! | 0:52:59 | 0:53:03 | |
That was terrible. | 0:53:04 | 0:53:06 | |
I know a little bit about the school. | 0:53:08 | 0:53:11 | |
All of you know who is Jean-Claude. Our school has trained a lot of perfumers. | 0:53:11 | 0:53:16 | |
We think 30% of the perfumes created in the world were created by perfumers trained here. | 0:53:16 | 0:53:23 | |
-Unfortunately, that doesn't mean one in every three perfumes in the world is sold by Givaudan! -Nearly! | 0:53:23 | 0:53:30 | |
We train some perfumers and, unfortunately, I hope you will not follow that example, | 0:53:31 | 0:53:37 | |
some of them leave us. Jean-Claude is an example. | 0:53:37 | 0:53:42 | |
Oh, thank you! | 0:53:42 | 0:53:44 | |
Thank you. Thank you, Jean. | 0:53:46 | 0:53:49 | |
Today they are going to leave the school and work for Givaudan. | 0:53:49 | 0:53:53 | |
What advice would you give them? | 0:53:53 | 0:53:56 | |
You have to believe in yourself and at the same time you need to have doubt because... | 0:53:56 | 0:54:02 | |
It means that you are creating feeling. | 0:54:02 | 0:54:07 | |
If you have no doubts, | 0:54:07 | 0:54:10 | |
you have a problem, I believe. | 0:54:10 | 0:54:13 | |
If you are too sure about yourself, | 0:54:14 | 0:54:16 | |
you close your mind. | 0:54:18 | 0:54:20 | |
And I'm sure that the customer can feel it. | 0:54:20 | 0:54:25 | |
So be sure, but at the same time be open. | 0:54:25 | 0:54:29 | |
Not easy. And I'm sure the customer can understand that. | 0:54:30 | 0:54:35 | |
Guichard is taking a risk inviting Ellena. | 0:54:35 | 0:54:39 | |
He's a star, but he's also a maverick who has written his own rules. | 0:54:39 | 0:54:45 | |
The students might get ideas. | 0:54:45 | 0:54:48 | |
He takes you because you are an artist and he likes to work with you because you represent what he is not. | 0:54:48 | 0:54:55 | |
I have no brief. No market test. | 0:54:57 | 0:55:00 | |
No market test on the perfume, on the bottle, no market test at all. | 0:55:00 | 0:55:06 | |
For me, marketing has nothing to do with the art. ELLENA LAUGHS | 0:55:06 | 0:55:11 | |
What I do in Hermes is what I do for me. The signature of the Hermes perfume is my signature. | 0:55:13 | 0:55:19 | |
The trainees have yet to make a fragrance, | 0:55:22 | 0:55:26 | |
but they've had a glimpse of the world of creative expression a perfumer can enjoy. | 0:55:26 | 0:55:32 | |
We could have spent all day with him, probably, just listening to everything he had to say. | 0:55:32 | 0:55:39 | |
There are so many things to think about now and to digest. | 0:55:44 | 0:55:48 | |
It's like new universes that open for us. | 0:55:48 | 0:55:52 | |
When he's talking about the details of how far he can go in his work, | 0:55:52 | 0:55:57 | |
it's something that we dream about and we hope to be at one day. | 0:55:57 | 0:56:01 | |
They may be destined for a different world from the man in the woods, | 0:56:01 | 0:56:06 | |
but their mission is essentially the same - | 0:56:06 | 0:56:09 | |
to create something that is more than just a nice smell, | 0:56:09 | 0:56:14 | |
a fragrance that has the power to inspire the memories of the future. | 0:56:14 | 0:56:19 | |
Such memories... come flying back to me. | 0:56:26 | 0:56:30 | |
As far away as my 18th birthday, | 0:56:31 | 0:56:34 | |
which was just after the war had finished. | 0:56:34 | 0:56:38 | |
Beautiful warm summer's evening | 0:56:41 | 0:56:44 | |
and this just gently wafting up from the flowers in the night air. | 0:56:45 | 0:56:50 | |
Oh, lots of lovely times. | 0:56:50 | 0:56:52 | |
I remember we used to go dancing, which was quite a lot. | 0:56:53 | 0:56:58 | |
It always found its way behind my ears or on my wrist. | 0:56:58 | 0:57:02 | |
Promises, promises, I guess. | 0:57:02 | 0:57:05 | |
I wore this perfume | 0:57:07 | 0:57:10 | |
when I got married and obviously it accompanied me on our honeymoon. | 0:57:10 | 0:57:16 | |
No matter what, this is the one. | 0:57:21 | 0:57:23 | |
It could only be French, couldn't it? | 0:57:28 | 0:57:31 | |
Next time, perfumers seek big opportunities in new economies. | 0:57:35 | 0:57:40 | |
European and the American business have not enjoyed tremendous success. These regions are exploding! | 0:57:40 | 0:57:47 | |
'It's not just about fine fragrance.' | 0:57:49 | 0:57:52 | |
-Is that the magical moment? -It's one of those. -'The secret is decoding local tastes and pandering to them.' | 0:57:52 | 0:57:59 | |
-She'll love this one. -That's gorgeous. | 0:58:01 | 0:58:04 | |
'Tales from a liquid gold rush. Scents and sensibilities.' | 0:58:04 | 0:58:09 | |
Ahhh! | 0:58:09 | 0:58:10 | |
Subtitles by Subtext for Red Bee Media Ltd - 2011 | 0:58:17 | 0:58:21 | |
Email [email protected] | 0:58:22 | 0:58:24 |