The Smell of the Future Perfume


The Smell of the Future

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'What we like in a smell is determined by our culture and environment.

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'Making scent for western tastes used to be easy, but things are changing.'

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The European business and the American business

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have not enjoyed tremendous success over the last few years and these other regions are exploding.

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'But the new customers don't all want the same thing.

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'The Russians want rich and heavy.

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'The Chinese crave light and airy

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'and the Brazilians go bananas for fruits.'

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-You wouldn't use that in a perfume, would you?

-I would. I would.

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'What we want in a perfume depends on where we are, but also when we are.

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'In Arabia, they lust for musky oriental scents that were all the rage in Victorian England.'

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I've brought some treasure for you, the best of English perfumery.

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'The tastes of London, Paris and New York will soon count for little.

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'What we smell like in the future is more likely to be dictated

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'by the customers of Shanghai, Mumbai and Sao Paulo.'

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Ah!

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'Ann Gottlieb's nose is small, but influential.

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'She's a predictor of global scent tastes.'

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Then see if you can make it at three and if we can get the test at nine.

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'The Manhattan-based grandmother works regularly for a top designer we can't name.

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'His perfumers are developing a new fragrance aimed at Chinese women whose tastes are changing fast.'

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You seem very thoughtful.

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I'm really concerned about the viability of this fragrance,

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as much as I love it and the direction in which it's going.

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Asia is a very important market for us and I don't know whether or not this is going to work there.

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I'm just not sure it'll work there.

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This is the more different woody note. This is more amber. This is more woody.

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Vetiver, cedar, this kind of woodiness.

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So this is the same as I'm wearing with a tweak on top...

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'There's a big sociological piece of what I do

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'in understanding what the tastes of the women and men of India are,

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'what the tastes of the Chinese are.'

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-I'm not sure.

-You're not sure.

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OK, come back again.

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What happens here for me is that I go back into a little bit of that animalic dirtiness

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which I don't in the rest,

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so I think what I would like to do is take that and that

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because those two maintain the integrity of the fragrance that I love.

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'Fans in Europe and North America might also like this perfume,

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'but they're not going to get a sniff of it.'

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Because specific regions are such lucrative businesses,

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yes, specific fragrances would be created by him for those regions.

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-And not available here in North America or in Europe?

-Probably not.

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What we are doing now are regional fragrances

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that are available only in certain locations.

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It's my responsibility to make sure

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that a fragrance that is supposed to be region-appropriate is so.

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Gottlieb's office on Central Park is filled with trophies.

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For four decades, big name clients have had huge successes

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following her advice on western tastes.

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These days, her nose takes her east and south.

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Gottlieb isn't limited to fine fragrance.

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Thanks to her, adolescent youth the world over smells pungently sexy.

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One of the projects that I've worked on and I've worked on it for 20 years

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is Axe, the bodyspray.

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-That we call Lynx?

-That you call Lynx in the UK.

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It is targeted really to teenage boys

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and I feel very much like its mother.

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And we do a new one every year and we get them pretty right.

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Historically, Lynx scents have been tuned to European tastes,

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but Ann is going to change that.

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The brand's HQ is in London and that's where she's heading.

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On the banks of the River Thames sit the offices

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where the future of Lynx or Axe is planned.

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Teenage scent tastes change fast and there's a new bodyspray every year.

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It's worn by boys all over the world,

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but Gottlieb knows that the smell of the next one will be dictated by just one territory.

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There is one country, ONE country, that matters more to Lynx and to Axe

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than any other and that's Brazil.

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They're fragrance-literate and they love fragrance, so the potential is huge there,

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probably bigger than any other region in the world.

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For brand manager Russell Taylor, there are practical reasons why the spray does so well in Brazil.

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What we find in a lot of our Latin American markets is that they use more product.

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They want fresher fragrances and they shower more as well,

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so the usage occasions in hotter climates are very, very different from the colder climates

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and that's effectively where the drive of growth on the brand comes from.

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Three teams of perfumers are in competition.

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This group believes they've got Brazil bottled.

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'This is a coveted brief.

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'This represents a lot of money to the house that wins.

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'And if they hear that their fragrances are not loved or that they're not promising,

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'it's very disappointing for them.

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'There's a good chance there will be tears.'

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We are at the... At this point in our evaluation, I know that we're not so happy.

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And so we would like to take a look at where we are here.

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Let's just smell, OK?

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'We are designing a product that is specifically for a 16 to 25-year-old consumer.

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'You would tend to do a product that would smell young.'

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Someone in this room is fascinated with the coconut part of the...

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'Brazilians love fruity ingredients, they love floral ingredients,

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'so that what I am looking for captures that,

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'but also something that really is tasty and yummy

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'and yet decidedly masculine.'

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Do you want to smell both themes maybe on skin?

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-Let's definitely go to skin, yes. I'm so happy that you've brought skin with you.

-Let me test.

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The skin executive represents a teenage boy.

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He's probably lived on Pot Noodles and gone without showers for a week.

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OK, let's have a look.

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'Coconut is a yummy ingredient.'

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What I would really love to do to keep the fragrance sophisticated

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is find a way of sort of wrapping it, so that the sweetness so much isn't there.

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What if we mix the two?

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Pierre, come smell and see if you think it would work.

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Yeah, definitely. I think it's pretty feasible.

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Fragrance development is a journey.

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If we make this one-dimensional, then we will fail, but you won't make it one-dimensional

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and the magic now we need to see coming through from you

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is something that you want to smell and smell and smell and smell.

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Are guys going to remember this fragrance?

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You guys need to do a lot more work, so let's not be lazy now and say, "This is it."

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But please, you know, work on the sophistication, so we don't come across as being too cheap.

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It's worth the pain. The contract for just one new version will pay millions.

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It's a global brand

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and it's a huge, huge contract for us,

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so to win it, we'd have a pretty big party.

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'Gottlieb still has to see the competing teams,

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'then she'll go to Brazil to ask teenagers for their opinion.'

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It seems that there's quite a lot of work still to be done?

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There certainly is. We aren't finished with the process at all.

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The next few weeks are a crunch period for all of us.

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I will be meeting with the fragrance houses on a...a few days a week.

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As they create, I evaluate, go back again, create again.

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It's an elaborate process.

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And I will be taking to Brazil

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what I hope will be one single can of fragrance

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and relying on the data that comes out of this

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to tell us whether or not we have a fragrance that's done.

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Brazil's opinion matters. It's the fastest growing fragrance market on Earth.

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The people love anything perfumed.

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The latest craze is for tutti-frutti scented footwear.

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Everyone who can spends something on scented products, from perfume to air fresheners.

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To cap it all, when the temperature soars and the humidity gets too much,

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they shower it off and start all over again.

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For the fragrance industry, Brazil is the perfect storm.

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Even car dealers are fragrance-obsessed.

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This is the Aston Martin scent.

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Everyone coming into our show rooms will smell the scent.

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We can give them a small bottle for free.

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Not for free, you know. Nothing is free.

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Brazil used to be politically unstable which made foreign investors wary.

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But all that has changed.

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We are in business for about three months.

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Initially, we thought we had a market in Brazil for around 25 units a year,

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but to our surprise, we sold already 25 in less than three months.

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They know that when they buy one car like this, they are paying more taxes than the value of the car,

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but they still want to have one of these babies. The whole country is coming up.

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We're having a lot more people in this country move to the middle class.

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Things are looking up...for some.

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Most people can't afford a bicycle, let alone an Aston Martin.

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But everybody wants a piece of Brazil's new wealth.

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Those who aren't rich can at least smell as though they are,

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but not with posh perfumes.

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The real money isn't in eau de toilette.

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It's in toilet cleaner.

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The big chemical companies are climbing over each other

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to make Latin bathrooms and kitchens rainforest-fresh.

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Flavia Motta works for the biggest fragrance corporation of all, Givaudan.

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OK, so here we are.

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For her, every day is laundry day.

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So, different types of washing machines. We have top loads that are very common in Brazil.

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Not so common in Brazil, the front loads.

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We also use drying machines.

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We wash towels with different fragrances

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in all these machines,

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so that then we can compare how we perceive this fragrance

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in the different moments, in the different washing phases -

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when we pour the product inside the machine,

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when it is soaking,

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then when it's washing,

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after, when the cycle finishes,

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to make sure that the fragrance develops, performs in the best way in all these moments.

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All of them are very important for the performance of the product,

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-but there are some that are what we call the magical moments.

-The magical moments?

-The magical moments.

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The ones that are the key ones for the decision on a product.

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So this is one of the magical moments when we talk about detergent powders.

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The cycle has just finished. I open the machine.

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I take it out...

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-I smell it in this way.

-Is that the magical moment?

-That's one of those.

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Yes, job well done.

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There is a very touching story. I went once on a visit up north

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to very low income consumers.

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It was a couple with four kids.

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The six of them would share the two beds.

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Although she was extremely poor,

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one of the best moments in her day was when they went to bed.

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And I said, "Why is that?"

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Because she owned just one bed sheet for each bed, but she would wash it every day.

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This washing powder would make the bed sheet very clean and above all perfumed.

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It was a way for her of inclusion to be able to afford...

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If she could not afford perfume itself,

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fragrance would come through products that she used in the house.

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TOILET FLUSHES

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Whenever Brazil visits the bathroom, Givaudan goes with them.

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There are around 50 million households in Brazil.

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All the perfumers have to do is correctly decipher their tastes.

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The problem is, they're changing with ever-increasing speed.

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In the past, scent fashions evolved more slowly.

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The Victorians loved rich, musky fragrances.

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Those tastes lasted for decades

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before the British fell in love with lighter perfumes.

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Simon and Amanda Brooke have re-created a Victorian perfume company.

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They hope the scents of the past can be their future,

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but can they really turn back the taste clock?

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'You need to do this with your nose.'

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HE SNIFFS

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Really breathe out hard and fast, then smell in very slowly.

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The Brookes are not trained perfumers and turn to scent savant Roja Dove for advice.

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This is Rose de Mai.

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Dove is a perfumer who champions the grand fragrances of yesteryear.

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He provides a sketch of the scent tastes of the 1890s.

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Jasmine suggests something a little bit more, you know, a button undone, a bit of decollete on show.

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The two together give you something very feminine and luxurious.

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So this jasmine you're smelling here costs just over double the price of gold bullion.

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Despite their reputation for sobriety,

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Victorians would lose control at a whiff of civet,

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the smell of a wildcat's anus.

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This material is now banned as a natural material.

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I have a little cache of it which I've had for years,

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so I thought that this warranted smelling the real stuff.

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It's quite interesting when you smell civet

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to think that in Ethiopia where it comes from,

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brides bathe in it,

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grooms put it in their hair as a pomade on the wedding night and...

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in Britain, in Georgian Britain, this was the scent of the dandy,

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because it smells totally faecal,

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so be prepared, it's not the prettiest thing you're ever likely to smell.

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Hmm...

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It's very, very sensual. I mean, this is the animal world.

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It reminds me of something.

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You have come a long way. If you don't think civet's horrid, you have come a long way.

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Simon and Amanda Brooke's home used to smell of air freshener

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and occasionally Old Spice.

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Now, on Monday mornings, Rose de Mai, Tonka Bean

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and Opopanax intermingle with bacon and egg.

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Simon Brooke was interested in his family tree.

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Three generations back was John Grossmith,

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perfumer by royal appointment.

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The real treasure, which is here...

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And I ought to have my white gloves on for this.

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But here you have in John Lipscomb Grossmith's own hand

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the original formulae for almond oil, brilliantine,

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almond shaving cream, hygienic salts.

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Here's a special one - Regal, which was produced for King Edward.

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Here we have... Ah, this is a good one - Hasu-no-Hana,

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so with rose and jasmine.

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New Mown Hay

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with lots of jasmine and rose and orange.

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Oakmoss with civet. Page after page.

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Clearly, the perfume or the creativity of those sorts of things was in his genes.

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In bringing a long-dead perfumery back to life,

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the Brookes have changed their own.

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They sold the weekend cottage and gave up their old jobs to re-create three antique scents.

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This isn't my best attempt. It'll turn out looking all right.

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I read Archaeology at university.

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But when I graduated, I became an accountant.

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We acquired the company

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because it seemed...

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..a kind of tidy thing to do.

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It was about saying, "Let's get this back into the family.

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"It used to belong to the family. We found it. It's not doing anything.

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"Let's see if we can just get it back into family ownership."

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A lot of the genealogy stuff is emotionally driven.

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And then we realised actually it was probably quite a good business proposition as well.

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One or two people said, "There's a recession on."

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But mainly people said, "Wow, what an amazing idea!"

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HE SPRAYS PERFUME

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The Brookes were innocents in paradise when Roja Dove took them under his wing.

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In 2008, I gave a lecture at the Victoria and Albert Museum.

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At the end of it, a couple came and said,

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"We've just discovered that we are direct descendants of the Grossmith family."

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And I said, "Oh!" We started to talk about how maybe this house could be revived.

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But given how fast scent tastes are changing today, is it possible

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that perfumes created over a century ago can still have appeal?

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Some ideas they had were so removed from how the market is today.

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It is not what is generally fashionable in the market,

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but the cost of producing a scent like this is extraordinary

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because of the volume of natural raw materials of the very highest quality.

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I don't think that it will ever be mainstream, but that's part of its appeal.

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And this very slight retrospective feel, they're of a particular period in history

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and I think certain people crave it because it suggests something legitimate and authentic.

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The Brookes hope to reconnect perfume connoisseurs with the scents of the past.

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They're not making fragrance for the fast-changing mass market.

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People probably like what they would call a light perfume,

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something that's got a lot of head notes and then rather disappears,

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that they refresh during the day several times.

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Ours are not like that.

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You see the names are very exotic.

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This is designed to conjure up the Japanese lotus lily and the mysterious country of Japan

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because in 1888 it was only just kind of opening up.

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-Guerlain did Mitsouko.

-Everybody is very interested in the Orient.

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This has got a lot of bitter orange at the top.

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Quite a bitter start.

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-I think it's like dry wine or something.

-Yeah.

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'People often say, "That's very different. I haven't smelt anything like that before."

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'And I think they always find them very rich.'

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Let it settle. Let it die down and then smell it in a few minutes' time.

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It's such a personal thing. Does it remind you of anything?

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Yes, Shalimar. One of them I absolutely detest...

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'It isn't instant gratification.

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'Obviously, there's a lovely start and a lovely heart note, but it carries on, there's progress.

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'And it takes time.'

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-..a fashion for these ingredients.

-I like this.

-Good.

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-Have we got the name of this?

-You have. That's Shem-el-Nessim.

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'They are a very rich mixture.'

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I think it's rich from start to finish.

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These perfumes transported Victorian ladies to the exotic Orient.

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Over at Harrods, the ladies of the modern Orient can't get enough of them.

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Roja Dove has to get to work early.

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It's just coming up to twenty to ten and the doors of Harrods will open at ten o'clock.

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In the summer, we have a very large Middle Eastern clientele.

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They love scent.

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The number one doesn't translate into English from Arabic

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because most of our Middle Eastern clients will buy three, six, ten, twelve bottles of fragrance.

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We have just received in these fantastic presentations which are in Baccarat crystal.

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The bottles are made totally by hand.

0:24:300:24:33

And I just heard this morning that a client came yesterday

0:24:330:24:37

who wanted to buy three pieces of each of these fragrances.

0:24:370:24:41

The Grossmith Baccarat presentations retail for around £6,000 a piece.

0:24:410:24:46

-And they wanted nine of them?

-They wanted nine of them.

0:24:480:24:52

-That's one order?

-That's one order.

0:24:520:24:55

The Brookes' big opportunity might be selling the Orient a vision of Victorian England.

0:24:550:25:00

Ann Gottlieb is on her own odyssey.

0:25:040:25:08

After weeks of refinement and adjustment, she has what she hopes is the next Lynx,

0:25:110:25:17

but until the teenage lads of Sao Paulo have approved it, it's still work in progress.

0:25:170:25:23

If Gottlieb has misjudged the Brazilian scent palate, it'll be back to the drawing board.

0:25:250:25:31

Hi, it's great to see you again.

0:25:310:25:34

Great to see you too. How was your trip...?

0:25:340:25:37

I am so happy to be in this city. I love Brazil.

0:25:410:25:46

Brazil is the biggest fragrance market in the world and fragrance is selling like crazy.

0:25:460:25:51

And it is an opportunity

0:25:510:25:53

for brands to come here and sell their wares.

0:25:530:25:57

And you don't get what they like unless you talk to them and see what they keep in their bathrooms.

0:25:570:26:05

And that's the way to really create products that they love.

0:26:050:26:11

'At the last Brazilian census, there were over 27 million boys about to turn 15.'

0:26:150:26:23

-What do you do if they don't like it?

-What will we do?

0:26:230:26:26

Well, at this point in time, it's really just a piece of information,

0:26:260:26:31

so that we have some idea of really forecasting and doing all of the other logistics.

0:26:310:26:38

At this point, it will be very sad if they don't like it.

0:26:380:26:44

We are going in thinking that...

0:26:440:26:47

This is sort of what is called the disaster check.

0:26:470:26:51

And I hope that that word never pops up again in the course of this product.

0:26:510:26:57

One of the aspects about this culture that fascinates me so is their attitude about sex.

0:26:590:27:05

It's extraordinarily liberal and free and this is true of guys and girls,

0:27:050:27:11

which maybe is one of the reasons they smile so much all the time.

0:27:110:27:16

Is it all about sex?

0:27:160:27:18

Um... It's all about sensuality. I'm not sure it's all about sex.

0:27:180:27:23

For guys, it's all about sex.

0:27:230:27:26

Gottlieb has 48 hours to hear if groups of adolescents like her bodyspray.

0:27:280:27:35

The boys are younger than Gottlieb had expected,

0:27:360:27:39

so the focus group has to feel informal, a bit of a game.

0:27:390:27:43

Behind a two-way mirror, executives hang on their every word

0:27:500:27:55

with millions of dollars at stake.

0:27:550:27:58

When it comes time for the boys to grade the scent, the results are curiously similar.

0:27:580:28:05

Ten.

0:28:050:28:06

-Oito.

-Eight. Ten.

0:28:060:28:09

-Nove.

-Nine.

0:28:090:28:10

-Seite.

-Seven.

0:28:100:28:12

-Seite.

-Seven.

-Nove.

-Nine.

0:28:120:28:15

Look at how uncomfortable it makes them. They're all giggling.

0:28:150:28:19

-All the others seem to repeat...

-They use the same words.

-The same words.

0:28:240:28:30

Sometimes in these, one person's opinion dominates and then everybody shares the same opinion.

0:28:300:28:36

I travelled quite a distance to come here,

0:28:390:28:43

so that when a chunk of time is somewhat wasted

0:28:430:28:47

because the group does not give any feedback that's viable,

0:28:470:28:51

it's frustrating, it's a waste of time.

0:28:510:28:54

Failure is not an option.

0:28:560:28:59

The middle market is incredibly competitive

0:28:590:29:03

and other companies have been making their mark here for decades.

0:29:030:29:08

Sales to Brazilian fragrance fans account for 20% of Avon's worldwide revenue.

0:29:130:29:20

Juliana de Faria and Ana Alvarez are marketing executives.

0:29:240:29:29

We've got a lot of different words to talk about smells.

0:29:330:29:37

It's like the Eskimos with the words for ice or cold or water, whatever.

0:29:370:29:41

So we have... LISTS PORTUGUESE TERMS

0:29:410:29:45

Almost like slangs for describing bad odour.

0:29:450:29:50

It's just a lot of bad words!

0:29:510:29:53

But then you have a lot of good words for describing when you smell good.

0:29:530:29:57

MORE PORTUGUESE TERMS

0:29:570:30:00

A lot of "inha"!

0:30:010:30:03

-What do they mean? What do those words mean?

-Fresh and clean, mostly.

0:30:030:30:08

-But the "inha" makes it...

-Yummy.

-Yummy.

0:30:080:30:12

Avon's success depends on women selling an intimate product

0:30:160:30:22

to customers who are also friends.

0:30:220:30:24

In Brazil, they don't have a sales force. They have an army.

0:30:240:30:29

1.5 million reps in Brazil alone.

0:30:320:30:35

-We have...

-1.5 million women selling Avon cosmetics?

-Women and men.

0:30:350:30:40

Almost 1% of the Brazilian population are Avon men.

0:30:400:30:45

Every woman, every man, they don't have access to the Chanels of the world.

0:30:450:30:52

So what happens from a taste-making perspective, the Brazilian market is kind of an island

0:30:520:30:57

where local players have sort of shaped the way Brazil smells.

0:30:570:31:02

Ahhhh!

0:31:040:31:05

Paixao! Paixao!

0:31:050:31:08

Trends that are very pervasive in New York or in Europe don't necessarily translate here.

0:31:090:31:15

So when we brief a fragrance house, an international perfumer that's developing something for Avon,

0:31:150:31:22

it has to take into account Brazil and interpret the trends from a Brazilian perspective.

0:31:220:31:28

And if you don't do well here, with an Avon fragrance,

0:31:280:31:32

-are you likely to get knocked off the list?

-Absolutely, absolutely.

0:31:320:31:38

Some of Avon's scents are manufactured locally by fragrance company Givaudan.

0:31:400:31:46

They believe in total immersion

0:31:460:31:50

and have brought French perfumer Thierry Bessard to live here and permanently adjust his nose.

0:31:500:31:57

It looks nice, but very...strong.

0:31:580:32:02

Very natural. It's a bit creamy as well. Quite interesting.

0:32:020:32:07

I think that would be very good in a masculine or feminine fragrance.

0:32:070:32:12

'I came here for six months and it has been 15 years now.

0:32:160:32:21

'To me as a perfumer, it's fantastic to work in a country

0:32:210:32:26

'where all the people love fragrance, you know.'

0:32:260:32:29

-Everest.

-Everest?

0:32:290:32:32

OK, so that's probably why it smells so fresh.

0:32:320:32:36

'Here it's very important that a fragrance is always very fresh.

0:32:360:32:40

'It has to be fresh and clean. At the same time, they want something that is a bit sensual as well.'

0:32:400:32:47

Smells have different meanings in different cultures.

0:32:500:32:54

It's been an education for the Frenchman.

0:32:540:32:58

Fruity notes, you know, are not the same as in Europe, partly because you don't have the same fruits.

0:32:580:33:04

In Europe, vanilla is very sweet and it's a heavy fragrance.

0:33:040:33:09

Here it is very often considered as a fresh fragrance.

0:33:090:33:14

'You have to adapt to that type of thinking.'

0:33:140:33:18

Thank you very much.

0:33:220:33:25

OK. It was...

0:33:290:33:31

Kenzo, Homme.

0:33:310:33:34

'I was certainly confused with lavender.'

0:33:360:33:39

When you come from Europe, you think lavender is for the old lady or is a masculine fragrance.

0:33:390:33:45

Here it is very much loved by women, actually.

0:33:450:33:49

Actually, you wouldn't find that many fragrances with chocolate or coffee here.

0:33:510:33:56

I think partly because...

0:33:560:33:59

You know, they don't like to find on their skin something that they drink all the time.

0:33:590:34:05

Coffee is very strong here and coffee for them is cheap, OK?

0:34:050:34:10

It's the same with orange. Brazil produces a lot of oranges,

0:34:100:34:15

so if you have orange in a fragrance, this is something that is cheap.

0:34:150:34:20

Fahrenheit, OK.

0:34:290:34:31

This...

0:34:340:34:36

Well, it is typically a mango smell,

0:34:360:34:39

but for those who don't know it's a bit peachy, apricot, that kind of fruit.

0:34:390:34:45

-You wouldn't use that in a perfume, would you?

-I would, I would. Not alone and not obviously mango.

0:34:450:34:53

Bessard is concerned with public smells, but also private ones.

0:34:540:34:59

His tireless pursuit of local knowledge takes him into people's homes

0:35:010:35:06

to keep abreast of changing scent fashions.

0:35:060:35:10

The next is Social Class C. Her name is Ana Celia.

0:35:100:35:14

He and his colleague, Flavia Motta, make regular forays into the suburbs

0:35:140:35:19

to scratch and sniff.

0:35:190:35:22

She wears, uh, lots of... local brands.

0:35:220:35:27

We must try to understand better.

0:35:270:35:31

How heavy a user is she?

0:35:310:35:33

Ah...she wears fragrance every day, seven days a week.

0:35:330:35:37

When asked to describe her favourite fragrance, she says...

0:35:370:35:41

Funny. "It smells like a rich lady."

0:35:410:35:45

-She wants to smell like a rich lady?

-Yes.

-OK.

-It's inclusion. Social Class C.

-Yeah.

0:35:450:35:51

OK, this was the lavender from Avon that she is using a lot.

0:36:020:36:07

And she cannot be without it.

0:36:080:36:10

It's very refreshing and it really makes you feel very clean.

0:36:140:36:19

This one is from Natura. It's pitanga, pitanga is a local fruit.

0:36:200:36:25

Ah, this one is an air freshener, actually.

0:36:250:36:30

This one is passion flower and passion flower she likes better, actually.

0:36:310:36:37

This one is the one that she uses mostly at night.

0:36:370:36:41

This fragrance is what she calls...cologne.

0:36:410:36:46

Actually, they are baby fragrances, originally, but...

0:36:460:36:52

she likes them because she said, well, it's...

0:36:520:36:56

It's a good smell. She doesn't know how to explain it further.

0:36:560:37:01

For now, Ana Celia's collection includes local products that nod to western tastes.

0:37:050:37:11

Smells for the upwardly mobile. But for how long?

0:37:110:37:15

'Europe and the US still have a big influence on the Brazilian perfumery, but...'

0:37:190:37:26

I'm pretty sure that one day we're going to see the reverse.

0:37:260:37:31

'In North London, the Brookes are looking to different horizons.

0:37:380:37:43

'They are preparing a nine-bottle order for a client in the Middle East.'

0:37:430:37:49

Can you manage? Is it heavy? Why don't we just push this lot out?

0:37:490:37:54

'Their scents are usually supplied in simple bottles, but there is something more exclusive available.'

0:37:540:38:01

Inside we have...

0:38:010:38:03

..one beautiful little bottle.

0:38:050:38:10

-Made from the original mould the family commissioned nearly 100 years ago.

-Don't unwrap it over the sofa!

0:38:100:38:17

Hand-cut. And with pure gold as part of that etching process.

0:38:180:38:23

-Real gold?

-Real gold, pure gold.

0:38:230:38:25

Each stopper is individual to the particular flacon.

0:38:250:38:31

Just put it in. And the way to lock it is with a quarter turn.

0:38:310:38:36

I feel very proud that we've found the mould

0:38:360:38:40

and proud of my ancestors for having the foresight to commission one! We're very lucky.

0:38:400:38:47

So this is for a special order. It's our first commercial order

0:38:470:38:51

for a very special customer in the Middle East. He's ordered nine.

0:38:510:38:56

-And who is that customer?

-I'd rather not say.

0:38:560:39:00

-They're special people.

-OK.

0:39:000:39:03

It's going to a royal family in the Middle East.

0:39:030:39:07

'This precious consignment is off to the airport and so is Simon.

0:39:070:39:11

'There are rich pickings to be had in the Gulf and a sales drive is in order.

0:39:110:39:17

'Bahrain is unexplored territory for Grossmith.

0:39:200:39:25

'Brooke flies in to launch his trio of Victorian beauties

0:39:260:39:31

'in the kind of place that inspired his ancestors, but which they never saw.'

0:39:310:39:36

No leakages, nothing broken. Phew!

0:39:390:39:42

The launch party is at six o'clock tomorrow. We have the British Ambassador. He's going to be there.

0:39:420:39:50

And various VIPs. They love the English in the Middle East.

0:39:500:39:54

Darn hot, though.

0:39:540:39:57

'Hot and very humid.

0:40:010:40:04

'The scents of Araby have to be strong to survive the climate, as the local competition knows well.'

0:40:040:40:11

No more. They are finished. All Arabic people is taking this.

0:40:110:40:16

Arabic people use only strong perfume. Very strong, this one. Arabic perfume always very strong.

0:40:160:40:23

All Arabic people, all people is taking this perfume.

0:40:230:40:27

This is popular, this one. Arabic people is taking this. Very strong.

0:40:270:40:32

Perfume genital...

0:40:320:40:34

-Genital?

-Oil perfume, this one.

0:40:340:40:37

Very old perfume, this one.

0:40:370:40:40

'Doing business on a new frontier,

0:40:410:40:44

'local knowledge is key.

0:40:440:40:47

'Brooke is joined by Syrian perfume entrepreneur Bashir Nasri, a man with connections.'

0:40:490:40:57

A friend of mine, Sheikh Mohammed Asmawi,

0:40:580:41:02

is very wealthy man.

0:41:020:41:04

50% kerosene, British Petroleum, Saudi Arabia.

0:41:040:41:09

Wow.

0:41:100:41:11

And he LOVES perfume.

0:41:110:41:13

He is one of the ones who will buy yours, I can assure.

0:41:130:41:18

-Is he really?

-One day, yes.

0:41:180:41:20

I can feel the glass is really, really hot, but we haven't been outside long enough

0:41:230:41:29

-to know what the climate is like, I don't think.

-It's 126 degrees.

0:41:290:41:34

Uh-huh? Wow.

0:41:340:41:37

That's a record for me.

0:41:370:41:39

'Simon wants a local distributor and Bashir takes him to meet the Al Hawaj family,

0:41:390:41:46

'perfume merchants across the Gulf.'

0:41:460:41:49

Perfume, fragrance in the Middle East is their life.

0:41:490:41:53

It's their life.

0:41:530:41:55

British lady consume 100ml in six months.

0:41:570:42:02

Here, less than one week.

0:42:030:42:06

I'm sure in a few years everybody will know about Grossmith.

0:42:070:42:12

It's a pleasure to meet you.

0:42:120:42:14

I've brought some treasure to show you.

0:42:140:42:18

Shem-el-Nessim is Arabic for smelling the breeze. The best of English perfumery.

0:42:180:42:23

'You have to understand and know and respect the local ways of doing things.

0:42:280:42:34

'You forget that at your peril.'

0:42:360:42:39

I've never had a date like this before.

0:42:410:42:45

This is my new world! I love it. When you've got something as good as this, where can you go wrong?

0:42:450:42:52

'Brooke is confident, but his scents will have to contend with sub-zero air conditioning

0:42:590:43:06

'and summer temperatures around 140 degrees.

0:43:060:43:10

'The most exciting thing about Simon used to be a pink silk tie.

0:43:120:43:17

'Now he consorts with merchant princes and the kind of customers

0:43:170:43:21

'who can spend their days snoozing, parking and shopping in malls.

0:43:210:43:26

'The launch is to take place in an Al Hawaj perfumery.'

0:43:260:43:31

Grossmith! Everywhere! Grossmith.

0:43:330:43:37

Yes!

0:43:370:43:38

'Back at home, an event like this might pull in the squire-archy and a local beauty queen.

0:43:400:43:46

'Simon greets the British Ambassador.'

0:43:460:43:49

Hello. Thank you very much indeed for coming along to this.

0:43:490:43:54

I'm still getting used to this. ..Your Excellency, honoured guests

0:43:540:43:59

and friends in Bahrain, friends in Al Hawaj, my new...

0:43:590:44:04

I've thought about what my Grossmith ancestors would think and they'd be absolutely delighted!

0:44:040:44:11

'They'd be even more pleased if they knew the identity of the next Grossmith customer.

0:44:110:44:17

'The morning after the night before, there's a call from the palace.

0:44:250:44:30

'A courtier wants to meet them at the Al Hawaj offices.'

0:44:300:44:34

The King, when he appoints a buyer, will not appoint anybody.

0:44:340:44:38

He'll appoint really somebody who is expert

0:44:380:44:43

and keen to find for His Majesty the fragrance which he loves.

0:44:430:44:47

They know about him. They know everything about their boss, the King, and they make the selection.

0:44:470:44:54

-This is it.

-So there we are.

-The packaging, presentation, everything is absolutely delightful.

0:44:540:45:02

It's the very best materials without reference to cost.

0:45:020:45:06

This is beautiful.

0:45:080:45:11

'Peter Dodds has the ear and the credit card of the royal family. He selects all their luxury items.'

0:45:110:45:18

This is Shem-el-Nessim.

0:45:180:45:21

A sweet opening...

0:45:210:45:23

Yes.

0:45:230:45:25

-This is...

-Shem-el-Nessim.

0:45:250:45:28

Florentine auras, so very, very expensive auras.

0:45:280:45:32

And, um, it's becoming my favourite. It's a favourite out in the Gulf.

0:45:320:45:37

We've used really lovely materials. We've gone for it and done it properly.

0:45:370:45:43

It's a real pleasure to share with you.

0:45:430:45:46

-Oh, that's gorgeous.

-This is the perfume your grand-grand-grandmother...

0:45:460:45:52

-This is the perfume.

-It's really lovely, really lovely.

0:45:520:45:57

Mm.

0:45:580:46:00

-He'll love it, this one, believe me.

-They're gorgeous, they really were stunning.

0:46:000:46:05

-Yes.

-Yes!

0:46:050:46:08

-Wear by ladies also.

-Yes.

0:46:080:46:11

This is very...

0:46:110:46:13

Yes.

0:46:150:46:17

'It's the palace. State business.'

0:46:200:46:22

OK, three o'clock. Have the swimming pool ready.

0:46:220:46:27

Yes, please. All right, thank you very much. Bye bye.

0:46:280:46:32

So this is the spicy one.

0:46:340:46:36

This is a lovely one.

0:46:360:46:39

The riches of the Middle East. Gold-plated.

0:46:390:46:44

-Like the first one...

-Yes.

0:46:440:46:46

-Hello?

-'The palace - again.'

0:46:530:46:56

Fine, thank you, sir. Yes, how are you, sir? Good.

0:46:560:47:01

Yes, he is aware of this. He will inform Major Khaled to arrange this.

0:47:010:47:07

Yes.

0:47:070:47:09

OK.

0:47:100:47:12

No problem.

0:47:120:47:14

All right, sir.

0:47:170:47:19

OK, sir.

0:47:190:47:21

Thank you.

0:47:210:47:23

Thank you. Bye bye.

0:47:230:47:26

Sorry, gentlemen!

0:47:280:47:30

Yes...

0:47:300:47:31

I have a little gift for you, which I would be very grateful if you would accept.

0:47:310:47:37

-There's a 2ml vial of each of the three in there for you.

-It's beautiful. Thank you.

0:47:370:47:44

There's always been a stigma in the West, to a certain extent, that men shouldn't have a manicure.

0:47:440:47:50

-It was shame.

-Ashamed. It wasn't a manly thing to do!

0:47:500:47:55

But, of course, now

0:47:550:47:57

men, you know, in... the Arabic part of the world

0:47:570:48:02

and even in Far Eastern parts,

0:48:020:48:05

I think they tend to look after themselves better than probably we do in the West.

0:48:050:48:11

-It's part of their culture.

-Yes.

0:48:110:48:14

Pleasant journey back.

0:48:140:48:16

What a charming man.

0:48:160:48:18

-Yes!

-The brothers in action!

0:48:180:48:21

Yes! Yes!

0:48:210:48:23

'Dealings with the palace are hush hush, not rush rush.

0:48:260:48:30

'Simon and Bashir head for the airport and Oman, the next kingdom in need of their fragrance.

0:48:300:48:38

'In Brazil, it's morning for Ann Gottlieb.

0:48:440:48:49

'Her first Axe focus group didn't yield reliable results.

0:48:490:48:53

'The second must deliver the local stamp of approval for her new body spray.

0:48:530:48:59

'Gottlieb has just 12 hours left in Brazil.

0:49:060:49:10

'These teams have more power than they know.'

0:49:100:49:14

Hi.

0:49:160:49:17

I'm Ann Gottlieb.

0:49:170:49:20

This looks like a perfect group. Absolutely perfect.

0:49:250:49:29

They're certainly the age.

0:49:290:49:32

In just thinking about what my expectations were,

0:49:330:49:38

this is...this is it.

0:49:380:49:40

TRANSLATING: Now I would like you to introduce yourselves. I am 20 years old.

0:49:400:49:45

-20.

-I study civil engineering.

0:49:450:49:48

-I'm engaged.

-Ooh!

-I use a deodorant to make me feel confident, you know?

0:49:480:49:54

How do you... apply the deodorant? Do you mean to show it? Yes.

0:49:540:50:01

Aerosol. It's a spray, so I go like this.

0:50:010:50:05

Look at him! All over the place.

0:50:050:50:08

Then I apply it on my body as well when I am going to play soccer.

0:50:100:50:15

'The test version of Axe. Has Ann correctly predicted their tastes?'

0:50:150:50:20

When I'm watching respondents in a focus group, I watch their faces

0:50:230:50:28

as well as anything else because their eyes and facial expressions

0:50:280:50:34

speak volumes about what their nose is perceiving.

0:50:340:50:39

TRANSLATION: I think it's very good. What does it make you think of?

0:50:390:50:43

It's a strong smell of flowers.

0:50:430:50:46

I've tried some others and this is the best.

0:50:480:50:52

The best of all.

0:50:520:50:54

This is a type of deodorant that you can spray on your body. You don't need to wear perfume.

0:50:540:51:01

It's pleasant, it's good.

0:51:010:51:03

It reminds me of a pine fragrance.

0:51:030:51:06

It reminds me of...

0:51:060:51:09

LAUGHTER ..the guest bedroom,

0:51:090:51:12

the guest bedroom when you have, like, good soaps and flowers.

0:51:120:51:17

And it smells of woman, you know.

0:51:170:51:21

Of women. It's like a woman's perfume, woman's fragrance.

0:51:210:51:25

The other brands, I don't think construction workers could use, but not this one.

0:51:250:51:31

This one they would use.

0:51:310:51:33

That's interesting. I guess that's their idea of plumbers or something, right?

0:51:340:51:41

Cos I like chocolate.

0:51:410:51:44

Because everyone likes chocolate.

0:51:440:51:47

So...

0:51:470:51:48

They'll mix up the chocolate and my chocolate!

0:51:480:51:53

It smells of cocoanut.

0:51:530:51:55

And I think of Malibu, the drink.

0:51:570:52:00

You've made me so happy because this is the newest one and I'm so glad you liked it.

0:52:050:52:13

I heard that you thought that it smelled a little bit feminine.

0:52:130:52:17

Men's fragrances are going in that direction. But who said cocoanut?

0:52:170:52:23

There is. And you like chocolate, right?

0:52:240:52:28

It's sort of like the chocolate fragrance, where it's very yummy.

0:52:280:52:33

And the truth is that things that appeal to your mouth are sexy and they appeal to your nose, too.

0:52:330:52:40

That's what makes you think it's sexy. ..We had some concerns

0:52:400:52:45

about the fact that this was a brand-new fragrance and it was a little bit on the feminine side.

0:52:450:52:51

And so it was reassuring to hear that even though they perceived that,

0:52:510:52:58

it was fine.

0:52:580:53:00

What I also did find about this and it certainly plays into

0:53:000:53:05

my own knowledge of the Brazilians is they're happy.

0:53:050:53:10

And they sat here talking about fragrance in loving terms.

0:53:100:53:14

And that's exactly why I have such faith that this country

0:53:140:53:19

is going to just...fly ahead of everybody else in fragrance usage.

0:53:190:53:24

'Gottlieb heads home to make the spray even more of a must-have for these boys.

0:53:240:53:31

'Simon and Amanda's scents already enjoy must-have status in the Gulf States.'

0:53:340:53:40

We've been very fortunate. We've had lots of cover.

0:53:400:53:44

In this sort of magazine, there's a whole section dedicated to our launch in Qatar.

0:53:440:53:51

'Now the breeze has carried the heady fragrance into Central Asia.'

0:53:510:53:57

We have an order from Kazakhstan

0:53:570:54:00

and he had gone into Roja's perfumery

0:54:000:54:05

and seen our perfume, smelt it

0:54:050:54:07

and just thought it was stunning and sent me an email from Almaty in Kazakhstan.

0:54:070:54:14

And we'll ship out to Kazakhstan.

0:54:140:54:17

'His Victorian potions have served him well, but how long before Simon changes direction

0:54:170:54:23

'and makes something more modern?'

0:54:230:54:26

It's an aim of ours to innovate. We've got to innovate the business to keep it going.

0:54:260:54:32

Innovation means new perfumes, not just going to our back catalogue and taking, "Ah, this one was good.

0:54:320:54:38

"Let's have a go at that."

0:54:380:54:41

I don't think we'll be doing that with many of our... with many of our perfumes.

0:54:410:54:46

We will innovate and that'll be a big thing.

0:54:460:54:51

Will it be successful? Will it be liked? Will it...

0:54:510:54:55

Will it have the romance?

0:54:550:54:58

Good morning, everybody. And welcome.

0:55:020:55:06

I'd like to introduce Simon Brooke, who owns the House of Grossmith.

0:55:060:55:10

Thank you very much.

0:55:100:55:12

Thank you very much, Roja. And thank you very much, everybody, for coming along this morning.

0:55:150:55:22

'The Brookes face a challenge.

0:55:230:55:26

'Their lineage is their strength, but brands that are only about the past risk becoming museums.

0:55:260:55:34

'Simon and Amanda's next fragrances must nod to their antique heritage,

0:55:380:55:43

'but smell of the 21st century.'

0:55:430:55:46

We launched with three classic English perfumes.

0:55:470:55:52

Perfumes in the future, for us,

0:55:520:55:55

will be based on the original and then we go on this journey and we modernise.

0:55:550:56:00

You've got to think that the market,

0:56:000:56:04

you're creating something that you want to make people feel young.

0:56:040:56:09

You want to change their perception of their age.

0:56:090:56:13

And that's one of the obstacles, one of the hurdles

0:56:130:56:17

that we need to overcome, I think, a little bit in the UK.

0:56:170:56:22

'In New York, scent guru Ann Gottlieb is still hard at work on the Lynx account.

0:56:270:56:34

'Input of the Brazilian teenagers is reshaping the next version.'

0:56:340:56:39

A tremendous amount of work followed the trip to Brazil.

0:56:390:56:44

We were going for something that was a little richer and darker fragrance

0:56:440:56:48

and as a result of having the focus group opinions of all the people that we polled,

0:56:480:56:55

we've started adding more freshness to the fragrances,

0:56:550:56:59

a little bit of fruitiness.

0:56:590:57:02

What's true for Axe is being replicated across the fragrance industry.

0:57:040:57:10

What may have been businesses driven by the States or by Europe are going to be driven by China,

0:57:130:57:19

by Brazil, by India.

0:57:190:57:21

And marketers are gearing up for that.

0:57:210:57:24

And we're looking at a cultural shift right now.

0:57:240:57:28

So it may well be that tastes will shift and in ten years

0:57:280:57:33

we will be impacted by what the Chinese like.

0:57:330:57:37

The Western fragrance industry is trying to get to grips with the tastes of China, Brazil and India,

0:57:400:57:47

but how long before these new markets are doing it for themselves,

0:57:470:57:51

replacing the smell of perspiration with the sweet scent of aspiration?

0:57:540:57:59

Subtitles by Subtext for Red Bee Media Ltd - 2011

0:58:160:58:20

Email [email protected]

0:58:210:58:23

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