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The Other Irish Travellers

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How does a whole community know when it's time to just go away?

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That their faces don't fit?

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That they are not wanted?

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When my father and his brothers and sisters were young,

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here in County Mayo in the West of Ireland,

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the world they belonged to was vanishing.

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But not everyone agreed to vanish with it.

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I asked them how they saw themselves but even as children,

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they each had a different story.

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My loyalties were all absolutely 100% for England.

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My country wasn't really Ireland, you see.

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We were rather like the steam packet company.

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Our mother would put British and Irish as nationality in guest books.

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That was her answer whenever she had to declare it.

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I was denounced once for rebel talk

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and asked defiantly by my mother, "Have you no loyalty?" And I said,

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"Yes, I have loyalty but loyalty to Ireland!"

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Can you read that?

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Can you see it, Ted?

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My loyalties were all to England but I know that I'm Irish.

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You were different anyway because you were a Protestant.

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Is that the eight there?

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That's the eight, yes.

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Yes, that's perfect, 1718.

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You can easily see it now.

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'These are my streets.

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'Suburban London is where I grew up and it's probably where I belong.'

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'But as a child I dreamt I was Irish.

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'I didn't want to live in an endless English suburb.

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'I was named after Celtic warriors and I wanted to have my father's

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'vivid Irish childhood.'

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'Though this is where he lives now,

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'he'd prefer you thought of him as a man of the fields and bogs.'

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-Hi, darling.

-Ready?

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'But I began to sense that there was another side to our history.

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'In spite of my Irish name, we were the bad guys in the Irish storybook.

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'We were the offensive toffs.'

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Ireland had got rid of people like us -

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landed Protestants who spoke with English accents.

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As my father was growing up, one by one,

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the Anglo-Irish families were being ejected.

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It was a polite version of ethnic cleansing.

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My aunts and uncles went back with me to the West of Ireland

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to tell me about their childhood in the 1930s.

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My father is a city of London computer boffin. He is 83.

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It was a very comfortable life, really.

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The only thing we didn't have was a car and a telephone

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and electric light.

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Look at the poor old gate lodge falling down.

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Losing its plaster all over the place.

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My Uncle Richard is a poet.

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Ireland and its bitter history has been his subject.

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When we entered those gates,

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it was like an embrace.

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Possessive and jealous by turns.

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An intense surge

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of excitement and joy.

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My cousins are the only one-time Anglo-Irish family

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still around here farming their own land.

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We looked down this great green cathedral.

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We were still holding a fort,

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a kind of outpost of the British Empire.

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A kind of forlorn, last-survivor feeling.

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Surrounded by people who were different.

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When I first came to Milford aged seven I was told that

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Ancient Irish Princes married their demesnes -

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that's the house and land.

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I wondered if my father had wanted

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to marry the house when he was young.

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Here we are, the grand old entrance.

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-The Rangoon prints.

-Yes.

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Richard gave the house its own voice -

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the voice of the Anglo-Irish -

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full of dread, in his poem about his own birth upstairs in the house.

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The house speaks as Richard is emerging from his mother.

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'I'd been expecting death by absentee owner's decay

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'or fire from a rebel match.

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'Too many old relations I'd seen die in the same bedroom.

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'Made me scared to watch.

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'And then your birth cry came

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'piercing through wall behind wall.

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'The sun transfigured all of us.'

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The first relation to live in the house was an English soldier.

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The Irish rebelled in 1641

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and Britain's New Model Army came to re-conquer the Catholic colony

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for Britain and for Protestants.

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It was the best fighting force in Europe. Led by Oliver Cromwell,

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it crushed all opposition swiftly and ruthlessly.

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But to secure long-term control in the decades that followed,

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officers were settled around the country.

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My ancestor identified the land,

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claimed it under the Adventurer's Act, and set up home

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over 300 years ago, in 1691.

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-Hi, Chris, hi, Richard, how are you?

-Hello.

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My Aunt Mary arrived a few hours before her brothers.

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She is the eldest of the children to grow up in the house.

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She became an artist.

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'Once an imperial garrison drank here to a king.

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'Now the toast is republican.'

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There he is! Who do you think that is, Chris?

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Robert Miller, who acquired Milford, don't you think?

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But there was doubt raised in the 19th century about that.

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The first Robert Miller was a cornet.

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-He was only a cornet.

-In the cavalry.

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A cornet was as junior as you could be, really.

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-I thought he was a quartermaster general.

-Yeah.

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That's how he came to have amassed something of a fortune.

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Well, I think he obtained it because it was a wild part of the country

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and it was very easy to acquire an estate.

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Well, he certainly landed on his feet.

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The life of the Irish gentry involved a lot of hunting,

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shooting and fishing

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and quite often killing each other in duels.

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With Kitchener To Khartum. Hm.

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When Ireland got independence from Britain in 1921,

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my great grandfather, Tom Ormsby,

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like seven generations of his family before him,

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was a retired British army officer, being the gentleman

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with his wife Lucy at Milford.

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A year later a civil war started.

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The Ormsbys waited at home while the news spread of Anglo-Irish houses

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everywhere being torched by the IRA.

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I asked a neighbour, Francis Cunnorne,

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about the family in the civil war.

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Famously, Anglo-Irishmen spent life getting drunk and riding horses.

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But Good Tom, as my great grandfather was known,

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was extremely pious.

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But when his daughter Betty

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fell madly in love with a real Irishman, William Murphy,

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it was hard to forget 300 years of history.

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At least the boy was a Protestant - but not the type with acres, he was

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the type whose family had converted a hundred or so years earlier.

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My father had come up in the world through education.

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He'd passed this very, very stiff exam which covered

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the whole of the British Empire.

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William, my grandfather, went to Ireland's Protestant university,

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Trinity College Dublin, and got into the British Colonial Service.

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He lived in Ceylon, now Sri Lanka,

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enjoying the life the Anglo-Irish ascendency

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had aspired to for centuries.

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He didn't need to dwell on his own background.

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He didn't talk about his family at all

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because he had married into landed gentry.

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As a family we were snobbish socially.

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We were the Ormsby Bowen Millers and our father was

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the mayor of Colombo and so on, so we needn't be ashamed of being

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Murphy, even if it was the commonest name in Ireland

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and three pubs out of four had Edward Murphy or Mary Murphy

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written above the door.

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We were the Lindsay Murphys.

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Our mother wanted Billy to hyphenate his name.

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I think her aunts made her feel like this, that

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Murphy was a very common name and couldn't Billy change it?

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Common was code for Catholic.

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Billy Murphy was a Catholic name.

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In Ireland's permeable sort of apartheid,

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with luck and application, converts too could prosper in

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the English system, just like the proper Anglo-Irish.

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Like Arthur Wellesley,

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the First Duke of Wellington

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and Richard Bourke, Viceroy of India.

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However, the ancestral Prots didn't have Irish accents,

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which William did.

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With the wrong name and accent you were never allowed to forget it.

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My mother's aunts were very blue-blooded.

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They didn't like the idea of their dear little niece meeting

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a man called Murphy on the street.

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A man whose name couldn't be found in any of the books.

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The books being Debrett's Peerage or Burke's Landed Gentry of Ireland.

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But the aunts weren't giving out the jobs in the Empire.

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William was preoccupied with creating naval bases in the Pacific

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and my grandmother was thrilled to discover that, as the mayor's wife,

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she had power

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She built a school and a hospital.

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They had five children.

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Daddy told us that it was

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so well ruled that it would probably last for a thousand years whereas

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the Roman Empire had collapsed

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after about five or six hundred due to its corruption.

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While William ruled, Betty got an MBE

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and the children played on the officer's beach with their nannies.

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But the idyll was short-lived for colonial children.

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I didn't want to leave Ceylon but my parents said it was time we went

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because in those days, when you reached the age of nine,

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you were supposed to get out of Ceylon or you'd die

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or get a disease or die or something if you were white.

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The belief of the civil service of the Empire was that it was very

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bad for children after approaching puberty and they must be sent home.

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The boys must be sent to boarding school to be properly educated

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so they could grow up to rule the world when our father retired

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and the girls must be got out of that climate

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before they reach puberty too soon.

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So when Mary was nine and my father was seven

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they were sent back to live with their grandparents in Ireland.

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Their grandfather Good Tom was now a rector.

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Their grandmother Lucy collected folklore and had artistic ambitions.

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Granny let me run quite wild.

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For instance, I didn't wear any underwear.

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I just pulled on my shorts and a shirt and a jersey.

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-Nobody supervised us at all.

-One day Granny came to me and said,

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"I'm sorry, Chris, but I've got a letter from your mother.

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"You're going to have to wear underpants!"

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And I was scandalised and I said, "What for?" And she said,

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"Your mother insists and I'm afraid I've got to do it."

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Their grandmother Lucy had little regard for discipline.

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Granny's side, they were in the wilds of Connemara.

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Artistic and mischievous.

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Full of romance, as she called it.

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As Richard said, "In the lake of our heart we were islands where

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"wild asses galloped in the wind."

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This was the Ireland I wanted to be part of when I was a child.

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She was rather irresponsible, in a way.

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She encouraged people to go against whatever it was you were

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supposed to be doing, you know.

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Their grandmother Lucy was swept up in the ideas of the poet Yeats

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and romantic Ireland.

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Connemara, where she came from, symbolised all it stood for -

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the place where Ireland could unite around the Celtic myths

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and everyone could be poets instead of warriors.

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The Protestants like Yeats and Synge had dreamt a future for them all

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and more than anything, Lucy wanted the children to be part of it.

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So a battle for the soul of the family took place within

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the marriage of the children's grandmother and grandfather.

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He was an unromantic Ormsby.

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The Ormsbys were all hard-headed soldiers

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with not an ounce of romance.

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I don't think it was an extremely happy marriage

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as they were very different.

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Hello!

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Hello, Mary, how are you today?

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Nice to see your dogs.

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As a former colonel he valued discipline rather highly.

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But Granny was encouraging us in practical jokes

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such as making papier mache turds

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which we would then place on the stair carpet

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where Grandfather would spot it going up the stairs

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and goggle over it with his monocle and say,

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"Lucy! Lucy! One of your dogs!"

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Not very helpful really. I hated it

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because I adored my mother and

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I knew I wouldn't see either parent for two years.

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Just Christopher and me.

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'My own darling and lost, precious Mumsy, I don't want Gran to see that

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'I have been crying, so I have taken this letter upstairs with me.

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'I shall miss you in bed tonight but I shall bring your photo

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'and I have your surprise to look forward to.

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'I hope you don't get malaria.

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'Kiss, kiss, kiss. Hug, hug, hug.

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'Your own Mary.'

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The winter was a particularly wet one.

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Lo and behold,

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the ceilings in all the old houses started falling down.

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I actually thought, "Why can't we have a ceiling fall down?"

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I saw a place where I thought

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the ceiling looked a bit cracked and wonky

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so I got a great big pole and I jiggled it

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and I jiggled away and a great, big chunk came down.

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'The schoolroom ceiling fell in!

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'Poor Neno was there, but he wasn't hurt.

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'John Welsh said the drawing room ceiling would fall down too,

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'and the study and Grandfather's bedroom.

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'Do come home soon.'

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'Dearest Betty, things here have been very upset

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'and your mother has been worrying herself greatly.

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'Due to the loss on Milford, I have insufficient funds to meet

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'the overhead charges.

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'And as the dogs were not well

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'and the ceiling fell down it is very difficult to know what to say

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'or to keep off the subject of dogs, ceilings, or finance.

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'It is very unfortunate how everything has gone wrong

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'just at this time.'

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Everything was indeed going wrong.

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There was a threat to the house itself.

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In 1933 the new leader Eamon de Valera had been swept to power,

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promising to strip the underused Anglo-Irish estates

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of their remaining land.

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Milford had received a Compulsory Purchase Order.

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The house would be left with nothing, not even the home farm.

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The government was intent on righting ancient wrongs

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and was going to turn the tables on the old Protestant Ascendancy...

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Whether they like it or not, it becomes law over their heads.

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..which had grabbed all land from their ancestors.

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Grandfather went up to Dublin in a panic at the idea that

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Milford was going to be nationalised.

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The estate was no longer a rich man's establishment.

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The Land Commission had already whittled it down

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from 17,000 acres to under 500.

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But Tom Ormsby wanted to keep the home farm in the family.

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His appeal argued that he would farm his gentleman's demesne with

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all the vigour of any other farmer, providing food for Ireland

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and jobs on the land.

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It worked.

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Only half of the home farm went

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and the family set out to exploit

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the remaining 220 acres of useable land.

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He wanted to farm and try and make it pay,

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which it had never done in the past.

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And the Ormsbys did nothing for generation after

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generation except go into the army

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and draw income from their landed property in the west of Ireland.

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There had always been, an income.

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Do it yourself farming wasn't going to be easy.

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Most Anglo-Irish looked at their options

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and decided to take their chances in England.

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He works terribly hard.

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And they are the only people in Mayo now of the old places

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because everyone else has gone.

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Hollymount went when Bloomfield went, I think.

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And the Killdays across the way and then there was Hollymount house.

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They're all gone completely now. It's so sad.

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Just as everyone else was leaving,

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Betty realised, with the situation as it was,

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she had to come back from Ceylon.

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She arrived with her three youngest children

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and settled the family in Milford's East Wing.

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She sank all of William's savings into fixing it up.

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Financially, it was a very bad move

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because he didn't even own the house.

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That was her decision for her own wishes.

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It was a derelict ancestral demesne house miles from anywhere

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without even a motorcar.

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Betty knew that Milford would follow the male line.

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Her brother would inherit

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and the money they had put in could never be recouped.

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For the Murphys, the commitment was irrevocable.

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Milford was always this magical Shangri La in the background

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that we all aspired to go back to and felt we had sprung from.

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It was a demesne house, you see.

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We were somebody.

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My grandmother was very alert to how much class mattered.

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The move to Milford would ensure her children became ladies and gents,

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as she put it, which was easily worth all the money they had.

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William remained, alone in Ceylon.

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Liz was four-years-old when they all arrived.

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The first time I saw Milford,

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I walked in the front door and there were rabbits laid in braces

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all the way from the front door to the bottom of the stairs

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on both sides of the hall because my grandfather had been shooting.

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The place was always overrun with rabbits,

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so things were always being killed.

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Edward was the fifth child and he was two.

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There was 150 acres of woodland for shooting and

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the activities of having a good shoot

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was more important than farming.

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My mother really organised us like a disciplined little regiment.

0:25:050:25:10

We had daily tasks and one thing and another.

0:25:100:25:14

Bells were rung at different times for classes

0:25:140:25:18

and then there were ructions if the four o'clock bell

0:25:180:25:21

for starting class after tea,

0:25:210:25:24

we were all out in the woods and just didn't appear.

0:25:240:25:27

What was your accent?

0:25:310:25:33

Oh, absolutely straight whatever the accent was that my parents had,

0:25:350:25:39

except when we were playing with country people

0:25:390:25:42

and then we could be as Irish as you please.

0:25:420:25:45

But not in the house.

0:25:450:25:46

So two accents?

0:25:480:25:50

We didn't have two accents, we had two "us"s.

0:25:500:25:52

We were with the children outside, and then at home

0:25:520:25:56

we were just how our parents wanted us to be, without accents.

0:25:560:25:59

I mean, after all, there you were as a two-year-old toddler

0:26:020:26:05

and I had just been born.

0:26:050:26:07

Standing with your bucket and spade in the pleasure ground saying,

0:26:070:26:11

-ENGLISH ACCENT:

-Bucket...

-IRISH ACCENT:

-Bucket...

0:26:110:26:14

unable to understand which was the right name

0:26:140:26:18

-for the toy you had in your hand.

-Well, that's true.

0:26:180:26:20

And you came back from the Joyce's and said to daddy,

0:26:200:26:25

"I'm tired, God help me."

0:26:250:26:28

I've never heard that.

0:26:280:26:30

It has always been instilled in us

0:26:300:26:34

that we should remember that

0:26:340:26:37

we are gentlemen and we should behave like gentlemen.

0:26:370:26:41

And they were called Master Christopher, Master Richard,

0:26:410:26:46

Miss Mary, Miss Elizabeth and Master Edward,

0:26:460:26:50

so you called them that.

0:26:500:26:52

Chris and I did not feel happy being called Master but, from up above,

0:26:540:27:01

they were corrected if they were caught not calling us Master.

0:27:010:27:06

Many Anglo-Irish didn't allow their children

0:27:060:27:09

to see their Irish neighbours at all.

0:27:090:27:12

I wasn't encouraged to have friends

0:27:120:27:15

among the townspeople when I was a child.

0:27:150:27:18

My mother was very dubious

0:27:180:27:19

and she said, "Are you sure, are they clean?"

0:27:190:27:22

I can remember her saying, you know,

0:27:220:27:25

"Be careful when you accept a drink or something.

0:27:250:27:28

"Just make sure that the glass has been washed."

0:27:280:27:32

Yes, well, we played with the Catholics,

0:27:320:27:33

they were the most fun we had with the country children.

0:27:330:27:38

There was John and there was Willie

0:27:380:27:43

and there was Kathleen, Nancy and Joe and Barbara

0:27:430:27:50

and my eldest brother was reared with my granny.

0:27:500:27:53

My Mum would go out and open the gate

0:27:550:27:58

and you'd go out and open that and you'd stand there and just wave.

0:27:580:28:02

'Barefoot, a child skips from my heart

0:28:040:28:07

'to touch the wrought, obsequious latch of lip service,

0:28:070:28:11

'taking you in-between double gates

0:28:110:28:14

'to reach beyond the ruts -

0:28:140:28:16

'your mother's peerless place.'

0:28:160:28:18

Your father's actual job was what?

0:28:190:28:22

He worked as a labourer in the big house and he worked very hard.

0:28:220:28:26

He had to work on a Sunday as well.

0:28:260:28:29

And the money wasn't much in those days, you know?

0:28:290:28:33

We had our own turf and everything like that

0:28:330:28:36

and our own cow and all that

0:28:360:28:38

and we used to make the churning and have our own butter and vegetables.

0:28:380:28:43

So we were very happy there.

0:28:430:28:45

And the rosary was said every night.

0:28:450:28:48

You were not allowed to go out or go to bed

0:28:480:28:51

without the rosary being said.

0:28:510:28:54

The poor girls got paid nothing.

0:28:540:28:56

I mean, Kathleen got paid £36 a year...

0:28:560:28:59

..for working 12 hours a day, 365 days a year.

0:29:020:29:05

Kathleen was the parlour maid,

0:29:070:29:08

dressed up in a black and white apron and all that. Oh, yeah.

0:29:080:29:13

We had cats and one of the cats spewed on the bed or something

0:29:130:29:18

and the cat got severely beaten for spewing on the bed

0:29:180:29:21

and so the wretched maid that beat the cat,

0:29:210:29:25

we chased her round the garden with sticks.

0:29:250:29:27

If you look at it in the context of what was happening in England,

0:29:320:29:35

it wasn't quite as ghastly as it seems now, us looking back on it.

0:29:350:29:39

One wonders how one could have been like that?

0:29:390:29:45

How one? We weren't grinding the faces of the poor at Milford.

0:29:450:29:50

We had maids who only what?

0:29:500:29:53

-They got £12 a year pay.

-£14.

-Half a crown a week.

0:29:530:29:56

And they walked up barefoot from their cottages to work for us.

0:29:560:30:00

-Yeah.

-Yeah.

-What do you call that?

0:30:000:30:03

And they used that loo down there, outside.

0:30:030:30:06

-An earth closet.

-Yes.

0:30:060:30:07

And what did they get for Christmas?

0:30:070:30:10

They got material to make a uniform to wear.

0:30:100:30:13

-And if anything disappeared they were accused of stealing.

-Yes.

0:30:130:30:16

Awful thieves, they were called.

0:30:160:30:19

One did give them one's old clothes and shoes and things.

0:30:190:30:23

So kind we were. You know.

0:30:230:30:26

There was the great divide between Catholics and Protestants.

0:30:290:30:34

Like you would say a black and white wedding is called

0:30:340:30:36

a mixed marriage today,

0:30:360:30:39

Protestant-Catholic was known as a mixed marriage.

0:30:390:30:43

There were rhymes.

0:30:460:30:48

Father, Father, I killed a cat

0:30:480:30:52

Great sin that, sir Great sin that

0:30:520:30:56

Father, Father, a Protestant cat

0:30:560:31:00

No sin that, sir. No sin that.

0:31:000:31:02

One was in an extraordinary position, really, living at Milford

0:31:040:31:08

because although we weren't well off, we were infinitely well off,

0:31:080:31:13

better off than everybody else.

0:31:130:31:16

You were conscious of the fact that you lived in a house

0:31:170:31:21

that your family had lived in since, erm,

0:31:210:31:24

the end of the 17th century, and that you were somehow or another

0:31:240:31:30

established and you were different anyway because you were a Protestant.

0:31:300:31:35

Britain and the Anglo-Irish Protestants were

0:31:360:31:39

a fixation for de Valera, the Irish leader,

0:31:390:31:42

who at the height of the Depression said,

0:31:420:31:45

"Burn everything English except their coal."

0:31:450:31:49

And he defaulted on a debt to the British government.

0:31:490:31:52

The British retaliated with duties on Irish beef,

0:31:550:31:58

and it wasn't long before the economy stalled.

0:31:580:32:01

Whoever could get a job elsewhere emigrated.

0:32:030:32:06

Those who stayed were so poor some died without ever seeing a doctor.

0:32:110:32:15

The children's grandmother Lucy ran a clinic from the kitchen.

0:32:170:32:22

There was no district nurse, there was no National Health.

0:32:450:32:49

If there was ever an accident in the night or in the day,

0:32:490:32:52

a baby fell into the fire, something like that,

0:32:520:32:55

they all came round to the house.

0:32:550:32:57

Granny, she did a huge amount of nursing,

0:32:570:33:00

but we couldn't come if there was anything infectious.

0:33:000:33:05

And people constantly died, children did,

0:33:050:33:09

because there was so little medicine.

0:33:090:33:11

Up at the top of this tree was a place where you could sit down

0:33:180:33:23

and you could look over the pigeon park, the swallow park,

0:33:230:33:30

the deer park, the rest of the wood

0:33:300:33:32

and all these huge fields that make up present-day Milford.

0:33:320:33:36

I would sit there and think, "This is just a magical place,"

0:33:390:33:44

the sunlit parkland all around.

0:33:440:33:46

It was at home, it was everything.

0:33:480:33:51

The lime avenue and the bumblebees,

0:33:510:33:54

and the primrose woods and the bluebell woods and the bog.

0:33:540:33:59

It was, it was paradise.

0:34:000:34:03

We were quite rough children.

0:34:030:34:08

Irish boys were much rougher than the English boys.

0:34:080:34:13

It was a totally new experience for me when I went there.

0:34:130:34:17

I was always quite glad to get away

0:34:170:34:19

because I was always the one who was sort of scapegoat.

0:34:190:34:23

We found, if you rolled down the bank in a black car tyre,

0:34:230:34:29

you could get a terrific kick and feel frightfully sick and dizzy.

0:34:290:34:33

We particularly enjoyed doing it to visiting children.

0:34:370:34:40

It was all very strange, all very foreign to me,

0:34:420:34:45

cos I never did that sort of thing at home.

0:34:450:34:47

One day, Christopher set off with a magnifying glass

0:34:540:34:57

to see what he could do.

0:34:570:34:59

It was actually raining at the time.

0:35:020:35:05

Flaming now.

0:35:080:35:10

It's that tinder at the very top of the seed that goes.

0:35:140:35:17

He set fire to the whole bog.

0:35:200:35:24

I was a pyromaniac.

0:35:250:35:28

After I'd burned it, it stayed, all those old plants

0:35:290:35:34

stayed as blackened carcasses for 30 or 40 years.

0:35:340:35:39

The fire roared across the land, consuming all the plants

0:35:410:35:45

and animals in its path, until it met a drainage ditch,

0:35:450:35:51

which saved the house.

0:35:510:35:53

I think it was tough for my mother. She couldn't cope.

0:35:540:35:57

I had to help her because they were all so wild.

0:35:590:36:02

And there were too many children.

0:36:030:36:06

Courtney, Kenny's mother, was always shocked

0:36:060:36:11

at Mum having five children,

0:36:110:36:14

as if she was almost becoming a tinker having five children.

0:36:140:36:18

My grandmother tried to create order.

0:36:230:36:26

She helped her parents, held prayers and played the piano every morning.

0:36:260:36:31

But she couldn't stop the children fighting

0:36:310:36:34

or Christopher's goat from jumping through the window.

0:36:340:36:37

And then the boys went to prep school.

0:36:380:36:41

-Was that a relief?

-Yeah!

0:36:410:36:44

Mummy was of the impression

0:36:470:36:49

that girls should be brought up at home with governesses.

0:36:490:36:53

And boys?

0:36:530:36:54

Oh, they must go to the best schools

0:36:540:36:56

and the money was to be spent on their schooling.

0:36:560:36:59

My father always had a chip on his shoulder

0:37:000:37:03

that as an old boy of Tipperary Grammar School,

0:37:030:37:07

he didn't have the connections and the pull

0:37:070:37:11

and the class and the standing

0:37:110:37:13

of any of his colleagues in the Civil Service,

0:37:130:37:17

who were all English public school boys

0:37:170:37:20

and he didn't want his sons to suffer this disadvantage

0:37:200:37:27

of being Irish school boys.

0:37:270:37:30

We wouldn't be cold-shouldered by the English toffs

0:37:310:37:35

for being Irish bumpkins like he'd felt.

0:37:350:37:38

They chose Canterbury Cathedral Choir School because along with

0:37:430:37:46

a religious education, it offered scholarships to its choristers.

0:37:460:37:51

Even so, William spent half of what he earned

0:37:520:37:56

on public schools for his boys.

0:37:560:37:58

Everyone did it, to stop the drift into Irishness.

0:37:580:38:02

The difference!

0:38:040:38:05

It utterly changes the future course of a life.

0:38:050:38:11

I always, particularly at school, missed Ireland.

0:38:200:38:26

I used to take a sod of turf in the study in Canterbury,

0:38:260:38:32

and make the smell fill the room and I would breathe it,

0:38:320:38:37

and sigh with nostalgia.

0:38:370:38:40

-It was a strange thing.

-Yeah.

0:38:420:38:46

This business...this pretence of going backwards and forwards,

0:38:460:38:49

and being British in a country that wasn't England.

0:38:490:38:53

It was very confusing, I think.

0:38:560:38:58

I think the situation would have been better if the Anglo-Irish families

0:38:580:39:02

had just sent their children to school in Ireland

0:39:020:39:04

and considered they were Irish and got on with it, you know.

0:39:040:39:08

When Chris borrowed a copy

0:39:080:39:10

of Dan Breen's My Fight For Ireland's Freedom,

0:39:100:39:14

Mummy confiscated it, found it and was shocked.

0:39:140:39:19

-Did she burn it?

-It was traitorous.

0:39:190:39:23

-We never had any inkling of that.

-That was a terrible thing to have...

0:39:230:39:27

Well, when I became an ardent Irish nationalist my mother said to me,

0:39:270:39:33

"Have you no loyalty?"

0:39:330:39:35

And I said, "Yes. For Ireland."

0:39:350:39:38

That shut her up.

0:39:380:39:39

It was difficult being two things.

0:39:390:39:41

British and Irish.

0:39:410:39:43

You see, I had none of that, there was never any question.

0:39:430:39:46

My loyalties were absolutely

0:39:460:39:49

100% for the army and England at that stage, you see.

0:39:490:39:53

My country wasn't really Ireland, you see, which is very strange.

0:39:530:39:59

What did you think your nationality was?

0:39:590:40:02

Oh, I was absolutely certain that I was Irish.

0:40:020:40:05

But being Irish, one...

0:40:050:40:09

didn't have any political sense of being Irish.

0:40:090:40:12

One was Irish, you belonged to Ireland

0:40:120:40:14

but you owed all your allegiance to England.

0:40:140:40:18

I didn't vote in an election until I was about...

0:40:180:40:23

28 or something, because I didn't really belong anywhere.

0:40:230:40:28

In the background there was always that sort of feeling,

0:40:280:40:32

that criticism of Ireland.

0:40:320:40:35

Dreadful people, pigs in the parlour,

0:40:350:40:39

bog trotters, what have you.

0:40:390:40:41

Claiming independence from the Great British Empire!

0:40:410:40:45

English condescension was part of life.

0:40:470:40:49

If you were called Murphy...

0:40:490:40:51

you were the star of jokes, a dimwit, hilarious!

0:40:510:40:56

My grandfather William had to represent Britain,

0:40:560:41:00

so he pretended he didn't notice.

0:41:000:41:03

Meanwhile at home, my father was singing rebel ballads

0:41:030:41:07

and re-imagining old battles fought with picks and hoes.

0:41:070:41:12

Everyone felt the strain.

0:41:120:41:14

Every Sunday we used to sit in that nursery and have to write

0:41:140:41:19

a letter to our father and that was a sort of bore of Sunday.

0:41:190:41:23

Writing to somebody one only saw only once in a blue moon.

0:41:270:41:32

"My darling son, everyday I go for a walk on the Galle Face

0:41:380:41:44

"and it is beautifully fresh on the seafront,

0:41:440:41:47

"but I often wish you and Richard were with me.

0:41:470:41:51

"Are you really thinking of going in for my kind of work?

0:41:510:41:54

"It is a very hard thing to do, at first, at any rate,

0:41:550:42:00

"and I was very lonely when I first came to Ceylon.

0:42:000:42:03

"Now I am lonely again, because you are all at home.

0:42:030:42:09

"Your own Dad."

0:42:090:42:11

Well, the fact was it wasn't a very grand house, was it?

0:42:120:42:15

They lived in a kind of a... well, like the Murphys were.

0:42:150:42:20

I used to think,

0:42:200:42:21

"My God, are we ever going to get to the end of this avenue?"

0:42:210:42:24

It went on and on, and there was that house sitting down,

0:42:240:42:27

with no view, surrounded by trees and everything was damp and muddy.

0:42:270:42:32

It hadn't got a river. It hadn't got a lake.

0:42:330:42:37

It hadn't got hunting. It hadn't got good land.

0:42:370:42:42

It had a bog which was beautiful, but not at all valuable.

0:42:420:42:46

I was very envious of other people's lakes and rivers,

0:42:460:42:49

but I loved the place.

0:42:490:42:52

We did realise that there was a financial inferiority there

0:42:520:42:58

that we would have to make good in our lives, if we were to keep up.

0:42:580:43:04

The Brownes of Breaghwy were obviously more than equal

0:43:090:43:12

because they had so much money.

0:43:120:43:14

And they had big, big hunters.

0:43:160:43:18

Our mother hated the subject of money.

0:43:210:43:25

She thought money was not nice.

0:43:250:43:28

It was the genteel Edwardian young lady in her...

0:43:290:43:33

..that wanted to have sufficient money, but not to think about it.

0:43:350:43:42

That was not nice, not done.

0:43:420:43:45

My great grandmother didn't give money or the lack of it

0:43:470:43:50

much thought at all.

0:43:500:43:53

Granny was great at making clothes.

0:43:530:43:55

She used to make me party dresses

0:43:550:43:57

to go to Breaghwy and to go to the Sligos.

0:43:570:43:59

Wearing these pink frilly dresses, pink organdie, lovely colour, pink.

0:43:590:44:04

She was very good at colour, and they had no end of frills.

0:44:040:44:07

But my dear, she never finished anything.

0:44:070:44:10

It was all the style, but not the finishing off.

0:44:100:44:15

And it was full of pins!

0:44:150:44:17

And I was simply terrified it was going to fall to pieces at the party!

0:44:170:44:21

It wasn't the sort of thing Betty found at all funny.

0:44:240:44:29

She just wanted us to be upper class. She was ambitious.

0:44:290:44:33

She'd much rather we'd married ladies and gentlemen than married oiks.

0:44:330:44:37

But there were few gentlemen to go round.

0:44:370:44:40

No tennis parties, not many luncheons.

0:44:400:44:44

"Why would you want to go there?" She used to ask me.

0:44:440:44:48

"Everyone's gone."

0:44:480:44:50

# Sure a little bit of Heaven fell from out the sky one day

0:44:500:44:58

# And nestled in the ocean in a spot so far away

0:44:580:45:04

# And when the angels found it Sure it looked so sweet and fair... #

0:45:040:45:09

The Protestant gentry were leaving the country.

0:45:090:45:14

The Catholic country people were leaving the country.

0:45:140:45:20

Fine old buildings everywhere were roofless, covered in ivy.

0:45:230:45:29

Ireland in the '30s was somewhat degenerate,

0:45:290:45:33

it was going downhill.

0:45:330:45:34

# And when they had it finished

0:45:340:45:38

# Sure they called it Ireland. #

0:45:380:45:46

"We are, as it were, taking the strain..."

0:45:470:45:51

When the war started, Betty brought the children back from England,

0:45:510:45:55

to be home schooled.

0:45:550:45:57

We did listen to the Home Service every day of life...

0:45:580:46:01

Christopher! You're supposed to be listening, not yakking.

0:46:010:46:04

We must look very reverent.

0:46:040:46:06

# We'll meet again Don't know where, don't know when! #

0:46:060:46:10

We must remain silent if we're supposed to be listening, Chris!

0:46:100:46:14

RADIO: "..has burst the storm of ruthless and unceasing war."

0:46:140:46:18

Outside Milford there was no war,

0:46:180:46:21

there was only what was called an emergency.

0:46:210:46:25

Mummy's idea was that we mustn't think that we were neutral.

0:46:250:46:29

We at Milford were imperialists. We supported the war effort.

0:46:290:46:35

To Betty's horror, the first bomb of the war was an IRA one,

0:46:360:46:41

in London's Oxford Street.

0:46:410:46:43

WHIZZING AND EXPLOSIONS

0:46:430:46:45

Plenty of people in Ireland seemed pleased that the English

0:46:480:46:52

were at last getting their comeuppance,

0:46:520:46:54

with German bombs providing the punishment.

0:46:540:46:57

In neutral Ireland, the family's problems of loyalty

0:46:580:47:02

and allegiance were greater than ever.

0:47:020:47:04

Ireland's neutrality was a disgrace to my father and my mother.

0:47:060:47:12

We never wanted to identify with the neutrality of Ireland.

0:47:120:47:16

Their uncle Jack and all their male cousins

0:47:160:47:19

had volunteered and were fighting for the British.

0:47:190:47:23

De Valera's priority was self sufficiency.

0:47:230:47:27

In the country of sheep and cattle, there wasn't enough food.

0:47:270:47:31

My mother said we must grow things, so I grew onions.

0:47:310:47:35

I think something awful happened to the crop

0:47:350:47:37

because I never, ever remember harvesting the onions.

0:47:370:47:40

Bless de Valera and Sean MacEntee

0:47:420:47:44

For they gave us black bread and a half ounce of tea.

0:47:440:47:48

Granny was a tea-aholic.

0:47:500:47:53

A half ounce of tea a week got her nowhere

0:47:530:47:56

so she used to gather lime flowers and make lime tea,

0:47:560:48:00

but the lime flowers weren't sufficient,

0:48:000:48:04

so she went out and cut off great sprays, whole branches,

0:48:040:48:08

and cooked them till they were crisp.

0:48:080:48:12

Gradually the shortages grew more severe.

0:48:200:48:24

The family were thrown back on their own resources,

0:48:240:48:27

which to the children seemed like entering

0:48:270:48:30

a forgotten world of legend.

0:48:300:48:33

To eke out the meagre supplies of oil and candles that we had,

0:48:330:48:39

I made rush lights.

0:48:390:48:40

But I quite enjoyed the shortages,

0:48:440:48:47

being self-sufficient and the idea that we grew our own wheat,

0:48:470:48:53

we made our own bread and killed our own pigs and made our own bacon.

0:48:530:48:59

We had our own hens. I kept goats.

0:48:590:49:02

And I ground the flour for the bread that Kathleen Joyce baked for us.

0:49:030:49:09

And I like the fact this was grown at Milford,

0:49:100:49:14

was it ground at Milford and it was baked at Milford.

0:49:140:49:18

And that we didn't have electricity, cos I thought it was more romantic.

0:49:180:49:23

It was terribly lonely in Milford

0:49:340:49:36

and the loneliness was part of the poetry of the place.

0:49:360:49:39

Romance.

0:49:420:49:44

And part of the intensity of the emotion we felt for each other

0:49:440:49:48

which, of course, could turn into anger, at very little provocation.

0:49:480:49:53

"One year at home under my flagging roof during the war,

0:50:030:50:06

"Learning and Love made peace.

0:50:060:50:08

"Like a bone setting weaver's warp and woof,

0:50:100:50:14

"your heart and mind were shuttled into place."

0:50:140:50:18

I realised this had been a blissfully happy time.

0:50:180:50:22

CHILDREN SHOUT

0:50:220:50:25

In April 1942, the change came.

0:50:250:50:30

Everything shifted when their uncle died fighting in the war.

0:50:320:50:36

One doesn't know that all sorts of turbulences are going to happen.

0:50:370:50:41

That a war's going to come and Uncle Jack is going to get killed and then

0:50:410:50:47

six months later, his father dies because he couldn't get over it,

0:50:470:50:51

his only son.

0:50:510:50:52

Now Lucy and Betty were left at Milford without any men.

0:50:540:50:58

I remember grandfather's funeral.

0:51:030:51:05

He lay in the house for two or three days

0:51:050:51:07

while all the locals came and visited him in the drawing room.

0:51:070:51:12

Then he went to Kilmaine on the back of a cart pulled by Freckles,

0:51:120:51:18

his favourite horse, the horse that did all his ploughing.

0:51:180:51:23

And then Betty heard that my grandfather was being promoted,

0:51:260:51:30

but only if she went with him,

0:51:300:51:33

and the War Office wouldn't allow the children to go too.

0:51:330:51:36

So there was a stark choice to be made.

0:51:360:51:40

She left the East Wing, sent the children to boarding schools

0:51:400:51:43

in England and abandoned the attempt to root her family in Ireland.

0:51:430:51:48

She never lived there again.

0:51:480:51:50

The separation, the disappointment

0:51:510:51:53

and the turmoil put her in hospital for three months.

0:51:530:51:57

But for William, things were looking up.

0:51:590:52:01

His promotion led to him succeeding the former King of England,

0:52:010:52:05

the Duke of Windsor, as Governor of the Bahamas.

0:52:050:52:09

It would be the crowning moment of his career.

0:52:090:52:12

He took the whole thing very seriously

0:52:130:52:15

because he believed in the monarchy as he believed in God, you know.

0:52:150:52:21

There was God and then there was the king.

0:52:210:52:24

And then there was the governor.

0:52:240:52:27

People who were ambitious brought up their children

0:52:270:52:30

to believe in order to get on in the world, you've got to leave Ireland.

0:52:300:52:35

There is no future here.

0:52:360:52:37

You'd go to seed, it's a poor country, you'd be wasting your time.

0:52:370:52:44

Their parents packed their trunks, said their farewells

0:52:440:52:48

and embarked on a convoy across the Atlantic.

0:52:480:52:51

Christopher and Richard were back at Canterbury.

0:52:520:52:56

In April 1942, Archbishop Temple was enthroned at Canterbury.

0:52:570:53:04

Our parents heard the BBC broadcast with us singing on the ship.

0:53:040:53:10

My feeling about the place began to change when our mother had

0:53:230:53:27

left it and the East Wing seemed less and less to belong to us.

0:53:270:53:33

I did feel the loss.

0:53:380:53:41

We had had this wonderful life,

0:53:440:53:46

and to be deprived of that was a shock.

0:53:460:53:52

I did feel I needed to escape.

0:53:520:53:54

I was sitting on those stairs there thinking,

0:53:540:53:57

"I wish I could go to art school or university or something.

0:53:570:54:00

"I'm not doing anything."

0:54:000:54:01

I either had to go and join up in the army or the navy or get married.

0:54:020:54:07

-And your mother?

-Oh, couldn't get me married quick enough!

0:54:080:54:13

There wasn't any alternative. Grandfather was dead.

0:54:130:54:16

My mother was going abroad.

0:54:160:54:18

There was no home for the children, there was nothing.

0:54:180:54:22

Having got married, I had a home for everybody to come to.

0:54:220:54:26

We were sent to school in England.

0:54:320:54:36

Mother went off with Father, which was a big blow to my life

0:54:380:54:45

because now I was left with no parents.

0:54:450:54:48

She put the fun and glory of being a governor's wife first.

0:54:500:54:53

She put my father first.

0:54:560:54:58

But that was a terribly hard decision for my mother.

0:55:000:55:02

Choosing between the lesser of two evils.

0:55:040:55:07

How do you decide what to do?

0:55:070:55:11

Who are you going to be with? Who do you really owe yourself to?

0:55:110:55:15

Your parents, your husband, your children,

0:55:170:55:19

and they're all pulling in opposite directions.

0:55:190:55:22

She liked service, my mother.

0:55:280:55:31

And she wanted to carry on with her good work,

0:55:320:55:35

she was an empire builder and she hadn't got a big enough canvas,

0:55:350:55:40

or wouldn't have had in Ireland, to work on.

0:55:400:55:42

Who do you think that is, Chris?

0:55:530:55:55

The daughter of the Galloping Major,

0:55:550:55:58

and I taught myself a song from the Blue Lady's Songbook.

0:55:580:56:02

And I sang it, it went...

0:56:030:56:06

# Hush every breeze Let nothing move

0:56:060:56:10

# My Delia sings, sings of love. #

0:56:100:56:18

Mary and her second husband looked after the whole family.

0:57:000:57:03

She continues painting and exhibits in the North of England,

0:57:030:57:08

where she lives near her daughter in Cumbria.

0:57:080:57:12

My father restored a 13th century castle

0:57:130:57:16

in County Galway, near Milford.

0:57:160:57:18

He lived in six different countries and brought up six children.

0:57:180:57:22

Aged 70, Richard went to join his daughter in South Africa.

0:57:250:57:29

He's now in Sri Lanka, not far from Colombo where he lived as a child.

0:57:290:57:34

He's still writing.

0:57:340:57:36

At the end of the war, Liz rejoined her parents in Rhodesia,

0:57:380:57:41

where her father, now Sir William,

0:57:410:57:44

was the Governor-General of the Central African Federation.

0:57:440:57:48

She has since then lived in London, Singapore and Switzerland.

0:57:480:57:53

Edward also followed his parents to Rhodesia, now Zimbabwe,

0:57:550:57:59

and after a lifetime farming there,

0:57:590:58:01

has returned with his wife to Ireland,

0:58:010:58:04

where they grow and sell flowers.

0:58:040:58:06

At Milford, Good Tom's great grandson is still farming the land.

0:58:090:58:15

And I live in London, still imagining that I'm Irish.

0:58:190:58:23

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0:58:270:58:29

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