Mark Gatiss Who Do You Think You Are?


Mark Gatiss

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Turning over. Quiet, please!

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Actor and writer on Doctor Who and Sherlock Mark Gatiss

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makes his living from his lifelong passion - storytelling.

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My whole career is a long revenge against PE.

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If people know me for anything, I think it's...

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I think children who are not necessarily sporty

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can take a little bit of heart.

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Mark first walked onto our TV screens in the cult comedy

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The League Of Gentlemen.

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Horror films have been an obsession since childhood.

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I used to walk around the football pitch

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talking about horror films with my best friend.

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Enjoy this performance, Wolfe. It will be your last!

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HE LAUGHS

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History's also always been one of my biggest passions,

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really, from primary school.

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-Very dark, but really catchy.

-But funny, as well, I imagine.

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It's a sort of affinity with it all, in a way.

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My mum used to say I had "an old soul", which I always liked.

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Mark's mother, Winnie, died in 2003.

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The idea that my mother was half Irish,

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it has all kinds of romantic connotations.

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I'd love to join the dots right the way back.

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I'd like to be the King of Ireland,

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but if I am the King of Ireland, I won't, you know...

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I'll be quite gracious.

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The big mystical thing for me is my mother's side.

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The Irishness of her side of the family always appealed to me.

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I've never really delved very deeply

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but the ideal place to start is with my dad,

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who still lives in the house where I was brought up.

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Mark's on his way to see his dad, Maurice,

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in County Durham in the north-east of England.

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I think he's always been intrigued about my mother's

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side as much as his own.

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I'm really just fascinated to find out.

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Mark's stopping in to pick up Maurice at his local pub.

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Hello!

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All right?

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So, Dad, what do you think we might discover

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lurking in the shadows?

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A murderer of some description.

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That's what I said!

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So, I painted this picture 15 years ago when I was a lot younger.

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I didn't expect you to hang it up like that.

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That was when I was slightly obsessed with Velazquez.

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Everyone thinks it's me as a choir boy, which I certainly never was.

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HE LAUGHS

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So, Dad, tell me everything.

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THEY LAUGH

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Where...? Oh, he's going to start!

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I'm afraid it was the milkman.

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HE LAUGHS

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Well, we'll start with these, then.

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This is wedding day, isn't it?

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Certainly is, with your mother.

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That's 1957?

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-It is.

-Where was that?

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That's the front of the Catholic church at Dean Road.

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Dean Road.

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But were you aware of Mum's family being a Catholic family

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because Mum was always a bit lax, wasn't she?

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Well, she wasn't lax until she met me!

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THEY LAUGH

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-Do you say that to all the ladies?

-Indeed!

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So, what did you know of Mum's family?

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Did she tell you about the O'Kane sort of Irish side of the family?

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Not a lot. Not a lot.

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But you knew that Hilda, Mum's mum, Grandma,

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was a widow and Jeremiah had been the local GP, is that right?

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-I knew that.

-Yeah.

-He was very well thought of.

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So, this is...this is Jeremiah.

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Mark's maternal grandfather, Jeremiah O'Kane,

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died the year Mark's mother was born

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so they know little about him except that he came

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from the north of Ireland and moved to England to practise as a GP.

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I've always thought he looks a bit like

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Little Tich or Grimaldi the Clown!

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-You can see the nose.

-The nose.

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Did I tell you this nose has haunted me?

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It's the O'Kane nose.

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We got this photo when Auntie Sheila died.

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Never seen this before.

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But he looks like he's certainly part of the team.

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Team, yup.

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And whether it's all...

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whether it's actually maternity... It's like Call The Midwife!

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Maybe that's what it is.

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Mum always used to say, "You should be a doctor."

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I said, "Why?" And she said, "You've got lovely hands."

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THEY LAUGH

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Yeah.

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This is very prestigious, actually.

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Queen's University of Belfast,

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Bachelor of Medicine, Bachelor of Surgery and Bachelor of Obstetric.

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Oh, there we are. Maternity was his, er,

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speciality.

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He's got three degrees.

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That's rather good. Wow!

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11th December, 1918.

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That's fascinating.

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So, it looks like I need to head to Ireland,

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well, certainly to Northern Ireland and probably to Belfast,

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if we're going to find out a bit more about Mum's family.

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His grandfather, Jeremiah O'Kane, is Mark's way in to his Irish ancestry.

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I became slightly obsessed with being a quarter Irish.

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It's quite a good thing to say!

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Not as good as half Irish. Certainly, not as good as Irish.

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Mark's starting at Queen's University, Belfast,

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where Jeremiah completed his medical training in 1918.

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He hopes the university's archives will have

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records of his grandfather.

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Two soups, please!

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Archivist Ursula Mitchel is helping Mark.

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And this is the entrance... one of the entrance registers

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for Queen's University, Belfast.

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It's for the year 1912, 1913.

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So, this is the year Jeremiah O'Kane came into Queen's.

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There he is there, Jeremiah O'Kane.

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"Date of Birth, Religious Denomination, Catholic,

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"Parent or Guardian, Margaret O'Kane."

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So, he was from Derry, then?

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He was, yes.

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To find out about earlier generations, Ursula has tracked down

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more family documents, including Jeremiah's birth certificate.

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So, Birth, his is in Garvagh...

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..Father, John O'Kane of Garvagh,

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Mother, Margaret O'Kane, formerly Mullan.

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An obituary. Gosh!

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-So, this is his mother?

-Yes.

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Died in 1939.

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"It was with sincere and very deep regret that her many friends

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"learned of the death of Mrs Margaret O'Kane,

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"which occurred at her residence, the Commercial Hotel, Garvagh.

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"A native of Glenullin, deceased was the daughter of the late

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"Jeremiah O'Mullan,

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"a large landowner in the district of Ashlamaduff."

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It sounds like it's from the Middle East!

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Jeremiah O'Mullan would have been a big landowner,

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a big Catholic landowner.

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-Land...

-Yes.

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-..as Lex Luthor always said...

-Yeah, absolutely.

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-..people always need land.

-Especially in Ireland!

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HE LAUGHS

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-Wow!

-Yeah.

-Well, that's absolutely amazing.

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It's lovely.

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From his mother, Winnie, whose maiden name was O'Kane,

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Mark has now traced back three generations.

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His great-grandparents, John

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and Margaret O'Kane, lived in County Londonderry, and Margaret's father,

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Mark's great-great-grandfather, Jeremiah O'Mullan, was a landowner.

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Very intriguingly, my great-great-grandfather,

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Jeremiah O'Mullan,

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had obviously some connection to quite a lot of land.

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So, I'm heading to the Public Record Office in Belfast

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to find out more about him.

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Mark's meeting historian Bill MacAfee, who's been

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searching for Jeremiah O'Mullan in Irish land valuation books.

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I was surprised I was able to find Jeremiah

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because you wouldn't have had many Catholic landowners at this time.

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You do have to leaf through the book.

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In fact, eventually, you do come to a page in the 1880s where,

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um...

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-Dennis Mullan, John Mullan.

-There's a lot of Mullans.

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-Is that the same as O'Mullan or is it...

-Well, yes, it is.

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Right. So, here we have Jeremiah O'Mullan...

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Mullan. And then it says...

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That says...

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It says "same", which means it's Jeremiah.

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And if we keep going...

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..there he is again. So, this is all Jeremiah.

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Right, right. Is it like a farm?

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Oh, yeah. These are all farms, you see.

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Yeah. He's the landlord?

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He is, actually. A fairly substantial landowner.

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The valuation books show that Jeremiah O'Mullan

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owned more than 700 acres in the 1880s.

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This made him one of the biggest Catholic landowners in the area.

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Now, I have a surprise for you.

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I'm glad. I love surprises!

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Who do you think that is?

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Oh, my Lord!

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Well, certainly.

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Wow! Is that Jeremiah?

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-That's Jeremiah.

-Oh, my...

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-Obviously, as a young man.

-Yeah.

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And a looker. Look at that nose!

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-It's been following me for centuries!

-Now you know.

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-Wow, that's amazing!

-Isn't it?

-1860, 1850, something like that.

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-Round about that, yes.

-Cravat.

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-So, that's him when he was a young man.

-It's amazing.

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There he is as an older man.

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Same man, different time.

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Ah, some years later.

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Yes.

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He'd grown a considerable beard there.

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Oh, yes. That is a very good pony and trap.

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-This is a quality horse.

-Yeah.

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This is a quality piece of kit.

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-All the livery.

-And all the livery's very good.

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So, they are aspirational people.

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Oh, yes.

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They will drive down the road to

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the church on a Sunday in something like that.

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-Lord and Lady Muck!

-Oh, yes. I suppose so.

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And that's the wife.

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That's Elizabeth,

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Mrs O'Mullan, Elizabeth O'Mullan. What do we know of her? Anything?

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Oh, she's Elizabeth O'Kane.

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-Is she now?

-Oh, she is.

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That's her maiden name?

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That's her maiden name, yes. She is an O'Kane.

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Through several generations of his family,

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Mark can lay claim to both O'Kane and O'Mullan ancestry.

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Mark's great-great-grandmother Elizabeth's surname was O'Kane

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until she married Jeremiah O'Mullan.

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And their daughter, Mark's great-grandmother,

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born Margaret O'Mullan, married John O'Kane.

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Both surnames were extremely common.

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There are so many Mullans and O'Kanes here

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that in fact, you know,

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the chances are he'll marry a Mullan or he might even...

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Throw a stone and you'll hit one!

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Yeah, he might even have married a Mullan. Never mind that,

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-there's so many of them.

-Might have married himself!

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They wouldn't be necessarily related.

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-Yeah, not in a direct way.

-No.

-Brilliant.

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So far, we haven't really shown you where in the country

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Jeremiah would live.

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We're in Belfast here,

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and the O'Mullans and the O'Kanes, of course, they're quite...

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A lot of them live in this area of County Londonderry.

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And that area was once, where they live,

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was once known as O'Cahan's Country.

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O'Cahan is the Irish for O'Kane.

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-It's mine!

-It's yours!

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I'm going to plant a flag on it! O'Cahan?

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-O'Cahan. That's the Irish. So, you'll be...

-King of Ireland.

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I don't know if you can be the High King of Ireland

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but you might get part of the way up.

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-Those particular genes came from there.

-That's my realm.

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-So, Jeremiah O'Mullan is obviously quite an unusual man.

-Yes, yes.

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So, we should go in pursuit of him.

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Oh, yes, and find out a bit more about him.

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Go west, young man!

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In this case, you're going to have to go west and slightly north-west.

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-Yeah, go north-west, youngish man!

-Yes. Indeed, indeed. You are.

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Brilliant. This is so exciting.

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In the north of Ireland in the 1880s,

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it was unusual for a Catholic to own land.

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But Mark has confirmed that Jeremiah O'Mullan

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was not only a landowner,

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he owned hundreds of acres.

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How he came by that, I don't know whether it was by inheritance

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or whatever, so I'm heading to County Londonderry

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to try and find out more about him.

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Mark's come to the Guildhall in the City of Derry in Londonderry

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to meet historian Jonathan Bardon.

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Here he is.

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Ooh, that's a magnificent photograph, isn't it?

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Yes.

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He looks a bit like you.

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I should hope so. Jeremiah O'Mullan.

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Would he have inherited that land from his own father?

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Let's have a look at this survey carried out between 1848 and 1864.

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There's that word again - Ashlamaduff.

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And this is the main family holding in Ashlamaduff,

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which was right in the heart of the mountainous country.

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George O'Mullan, crossed out and replaced with Jeremiah.

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We know that George O'Mullan was in fact Jeremiah's father.

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The record shows that Jeremiah's father,

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Mark's great-great-great-grandfather, George O'Mullan,

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had occupied the family homestead at Ashlamaduff before his son

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but unlike Jeremiah, George didn't own the land.

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This is a Tithe Applotment Book.

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I would say that this document indicates that George,

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he's not a landowner at all, he's a tenant.

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It's poor, arable land.

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It's a pretty small amount of land so he's not particularly well-off.

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Now our next one is...

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it's a freehold lease.

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"To Mr George Mullan. 1826."

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An Indenture and this is George O'Mullan

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and he is leasing land in a place called Glack.

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It's certainly a mystery

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when we find that Jeremiah is really a very substantial landowner...

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Yeah.

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..but his father, George...

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-Was not.

-..clearly, is not.

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How did that happen?

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How did that happen? Are you telling me you don't know?

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-I don't know.

-Oh, gosh!

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I was waiting for an answer! Well, yeah.

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So, George doesn't have very much.

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No.

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And then Jeremiah has quite a lot.

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George O'Mullan was a tenant on two plots of land in the 1820s -

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the family homestead at Ashlamaduff and farmland in nearby Glack.

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This land had been under British control for more than 200 years.

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It was in the Province of Ulster in the area

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which today is Northern Ireland.

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In the early 1600s, the English conquered the North of Ireland

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and seized Ulster from the native Irish chieftains.

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In 1609, King James I began what became known as the

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Plantation of Ulster to bring the unruly Catholic Irish under control.

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He decided that he wanted to calm this place down

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by introducing good Protestant British.

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The most difficult place to attract British settlers to

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was O'Cahan's Country. It was the most Gaelic part of Ireland,

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it was heavily wooded, it had wolves,

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it had "wood-kerne" or bandits in those forests,

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and so James approached the livery companies of London

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and managed to persuade them

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to involve themselves in planting this particular area.

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The livery companies had developed from London's ancient guilds

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such as carpenters, grocers and fishmongers.

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They were made up of wealthy merchants, traders and craftsmen.

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King James instructed them to colonise this part of Ulster.

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The rule was they had to remove all of the native Irish from their land.

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Only 10% of the land was left for the native Irish to keep.

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It's sort of like the...

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It's like an Indian reservation, isn't it,

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or the Highland Clearances?

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It's ethnic cleansing that's going on.

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The livery companies failed to entice British Protestants

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to territory they feared was hostile.

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By George O'Mullan's time in the 1820s,

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the London landlords had no option but to lease to Catholic tenants.

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George rented his plot in the townland of Glack

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from a livery company - the Worshipful Company of Fishmongers.

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If we look at this contemporary description of Glack here,

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dated 1835...

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"There's not a single land holder at present in the townland

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"of Glack of any other denomination than Roman Catholics.

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"The reason assigned for this..."

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Ooh!

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"..singular instance..."

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"..in the above parish is that the entire of Glack was formerly..."

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-Ah...

-"Moss..."

0:19:430:19:44

"..and mountain, altogether..." Oh, you've got it there.

0:19:440:19:47

That's not fair!

0:19:470:19:48

THEY LAUGH

0:19:480:19:49

-I was doing very well.

-You were.

0:19:490:19:51

"..formerly moss and mountain, altogether uninhabited.

0:19:510:19:54

"The Catholics were driven up to the mountains of Glack to

0:19:540:19:56

"colonise its cold and barren surface."

0:19:560:19:59

-That's fantastic. So, where's Glack, geographically?

-Now...

0:19:590:20:04

That map is about 50 years older,

0:20:070:20:10

got it in about 1965.

0:20:100:20:12

But it does show the townland names, which is why

0:20:140:20:16

I like to hold on to it.

0:20:160:20:18

Right, Glack.

0:20:180:20:20

Now, if we can find the foot of Loughermore Mountain...

0:20:200:20:23

-..and you should be able to find Glack.

-There's Glack.

0:20:250:20:28

There's Glack. Don't forget, it's mountainy land.

0:20:280:20:31

-It was...

-Pretty remote.

-It's pretty remote.

-Pretty wild.

0:20:310:20:34

Mm.

0:20:340:20:35

Before the Plantation of Ulster,

0:20:350:20:38

the whole area would have been O'Cahan land,

0:20:380:20:42

and Lord O'Cahan, in his territory, he lorded it over.

0:20:420:20:47

Other Gaelic gentry beneath him would have been the O'Mullans.

0:20:480:20:52

Right. So, I'm gentry?

0:20:520:20:54

Just say this, I'm an Irish Time Lord!

0:20:540:20:57

That's all I need to know.

0:20:570:20:58

You are descended from an Irish Time Lord, you are a Time Lord, yes.

0:20:580:21:03

Or a lord, at least.

0:21:030:21:04

Cos those lords were, in earlier times, kings,

0:21:040:21:11

so the...certainly the head of the O'Mullan clan,

0:21:110:21:14

the head of the O'Cahan clan, would have been a king.

0:21:140:21:18

At one stage in Ireland in the early Christian times,

0:21:180:21:23

there were about 200 kings in Ireland.

0:21:230:21:25

-Too many.

-Too many.

-Let's narrow it down.

0:21:250:21:27

THEY LAUGH

0:21:270:21:28

Ancient Irish kings! That does the heart proud.

0:21:340:21:38

I'm deeply aware there are lots of O'Kanes and O'Mullans around here,

0:21:390:21:43

so I'll have to devise some sort of Kind Hearts and Coronets-type plan

0:21:430:21:48

to knock off all my relatives in order to claim the kingship.

0:21:480:21:53

But...I did want a murderer in the family

0:21:530:21:55

so maybe it's going to be me!

0:21:550:21:57

But the big mystery at the moment, more recent times,

0:22:020:22:06

is Jeremiah O'Mullan's father, George O'Mullan,

0:22:060:22:10

who is my great-great-great-grandfather,

0:22:100:22:14

was paying rent on a piece of poor, arable land

0:22:140:22:21

and then, as we've discovered, his son, Jeremiah...

0:22:210:22:24

..is then someone of considerable substance and land.

0:22:270:22:32

So, something has changed between father and son.

0:22:320:22:35

So, we're going to head to Glack now to see what we can find.

0:22:350:22:39

Historian Dr Heather Laird is joining Mark.

0:22:440:22:47

She's taking him onto the land that George rented.

0:22:550:22:58

So, Mark, here we are.

0:23:040:23:08

This is our stopping point.

0:23:080:23:09

Bleak, barren, cold Glack.

0:23:130:23:15

So, Mark, I know you've been hearing a little

0:23:190:23:21

bit about your ancestor, George O'Mullan,

0:23:210:23:24

and how this area relates to him.

0:23:240:23:28

-Glack.

-Glack, yes. The townland of Glack.

0:23:280:23:30

-The cold and barren.

-Yes.

0:23:300:23:32

Yes. Looks rather nice today.

0:23:320:23:34

I also have discovered that George was married

0:23:340:23:37

and his wife's name was Bridget O'Kane,

0:23:370:23:40

and I think O'Kane is a name that's come up already...

0:23:400:23:44

-Yes.

-..for you. George and Bridget had eight children,

0:23:440:23:48

so a substantial family, substantial-size family.

0:23:480:23:51

And, of course, as you can see, the land, it's very beautiful today

0:23:510:23:56

but it's not exactly the most productive of land.

0:23:560:23:59

So, that might raise a question in terms of how George

0:23:590:24:03

is sustaining his family and keeping his family.

0:24:030:24:06

So, what I've discovered is that George was not only leasing

0:24:060:24:10

land from The Fishmongers' Company,

0:24:100:24:12

he was also an employee of The Fishmongers' Company.

0:24:120:24:15

George's landlord, the Worshipful Company of Fishmongers,

0:24:150:24:19

used much of their land in Glack for large-scale cattle grazing.

0:24:190:24:22

This could put them in conflict with their local tenants,

0:24:240:24:27

renting small farms from them on the higher, less fertile ground

0:24:270:24:31

that was left over.

0:24:310:24:33

These subsistence farmers believed it was their ancient right

0:24:330:24:36

to move their own small herds down to better land

0:24:360:24:40

when their grass supplies ran low.

0:24:400:24:43

So, the absentee landlords employed locals like George O'Mullan

0:24:430:24:47

to protect their interests.

0:24:470:24:49

He was employed by The Fishmongers' Company as a land steward

0:24:490:24:54

and as a herdsman.

0:24:540:24:56

It's kind of like our modern-day equivalent of a farm manager.

0:24:560:24:59

And one of his roles would have been to collect rent from those

0:24:590:25:02

-who were...

-Oh, God!

0:25:020:25:04

THEY LAUGH

0:25:040:25:06

..those who were renting the land from The Fishmongers' Company.

0:25:060:25:09

Tensions between the locals and their London landlords were

0:25:090:25:13

running high when George O'Mullan worked as a land steward.

0:25:130:25:17

Population increases through the 1820s and '30s

0:25:170:25:20

made life more difficult for tenants, so they sometimes

0:25:200:25:24

resorted to intimidation and violence against the middlemen.

0:25:240:25:27

I have a document here that actually gives us a sense of just how

0:25:270:25:30

vulnerable somebody in George's position might be.

0:25:300:25:34

It relates to an incident that took place in neighbouring Fermanagh.

0:25:340:25:38

"In the newsletter of last Tuesday we stated that

0:25:380:25:41

"the Reverend Mr King of Corrard, County Fermanagh,

0:25:410:25:44

"had received a notice from Captain Rock, commanding him

0:25:440:25:47

"to discharge his steward, otherwise they would both be destroyed.

0:25:470:25:51

"In accordance with this notice, the Captain's men have commenced putting

0:25:510:25:55

"their threats into execution, as on the night of Tuesday the 10th inst.

0:25:550:25:58

"the house of Hewitt, the steward, was set on fire and consumed.

0:25:580:26:03

"The day after the burning, a notice was found, informing

0:26:030:26:05

"Mr King that this was the first visitation,

0:26:050:26:08

"and to remember that the second would be, 'Death, death, death!'

0:26:080:26:12

"Captain Rock." Gosh, this is fantastic!

0:26:120:26:15

So, who is Captain Rock?

0:26:150:26:18

Well, Captain Rock is not an individual, as such.

0:26:180:26:21

There isn't a centralised kind of agrarian organisation.

0:26:210:26:27

But what there is is a sort of persona.

0:26:270:26:29

So, any group of

0:26:290:26:33

subsistence farmers who felt that their livelihoods were being

0:26:330:26:36

impinged on could take on the persona of Captain Rock.

0:26:360:26:42

So, it's a sort of invented name for a movement, for a gang?

0:26:420:26:45

-Yes, yes.

-Captain Rock.

0:26:450:26:47

If the warning wasn't heeded, this could then escalate, so...

0:26:470:26:51

Did people die?

0:26:510:26:52

Yes, people died, property was damaged, people were attacked.

0:26:520:26:56

And, in fact, I have an example of a notice...

0:26:560:27:00

..that could be received.

0:27:020:27:07

"Take notice on pain of suffering

0:27:070:27:10

"the most excruciating torments of death.

0:27:100:27:14

"Any landlord or landlords' agents or under agents..."

0:27:140:27:18

-"On their perils..."

-"On their perils"?

-Yes.

0:27:180:27:21

"..are strictly forbidden to take distrain

0:27:210:27:25

"or impound any tenants' goods or chattels

0:27:250:27:28

"or any pound-keeper taking any man's cattle into his custody

0:27:280:27:33

"will undergo the same fate as above mentioned.

0:27:330:27:37

"I remain yours truly, Captain Rock."

0:27:370:27:41

Wow!

0:27:410:27:43

-"Excruciating torments of death"!

-It's great. The language is often

0:27:430:27:46

a mixture between kind of pseudo kind of legal language and also

0:27:460:27:50

-almost biblical...

-It is, yeah.

-..kind of Old Testament language.

0:27:500:27:53

-It's got also the feel of the Jack The Ripper letters.

-Yes.

0:27:530:27:56

And I actually have a document which suggests that George's job did,

0:27:560:28:01

in fact, lead him into a certain amount of danger.

0:28:010:28:06

And it's a document that was sent on the 1st August, 1827.

0:28:060:28:10

"George O'Mullan, the superintending herdsman who resides at Glack..."

0:28:100:28:14

-Here we are.

-Yeah.

-"..applied to the deputation to be assisted with money

0:28:140:28:19

"to enable him to build office houses, his former ones having been

0:28:190:28:23

"destroyed by some malicious mountaineers

0:28:230:28:26

"in revenge for his pounding their cattle

0:28:260:28:30

"when trespassing on the Company's lands."

0:28:300:28:33

So, what he's done is he's taken... Their cattle have been trespassing

0:28:330:28:36

and he's found them trespassing on the Company's land,

0:28:360:28:39

he's taken those cattle and he's taken them essentially into custody.

0:28:390:28:42

Right. "George O'Mullan has a salary of £20 a year for receiving

0:28:420:28:46

"the rents of the mountain pasturage

0:28:460:28:50

"and taking care of the cattle depasturing thereon."

0:28:500:28:54

-So...

-So, he'd lost his buildings to a revenge fire.

-He did.

0:28:540:28:59

It doesn't say what burnt but that's the most likely thing that happened

0:28:590:29:03

-to those buildings, was that they were burnt down.

-It is very, er...

0:29:030:29:07

I'm torn because...because, obviously,

0:29:080:29:12

your natural human sympathies

0:29:120:29:14

are with the malicious mountaineers

0:29:140:29:17

who are just struggling to -

0:29:170:29:19

literally struggling to exist up here.

0:29:190:29:22

And my instincts

0:29:220:29:25

would absolutely be against the Company.

0:29:250:29:29

So, er, it's...

0:29:290:29:32

morally ambiguous, to say the least.

0:29:320:29:35

Um, but also feeling

0:29:350:29:38

George had got a good job in a very difficult time.

0:29:380:29:43

He's in a difficult situation.

0:29:430:29:46

-Between Captain Rock and a hard place!

-I think exactly that!

0:29:460:29:49

SHE CHUCKLES

0:29:490:29:51

And also, as he was almost certainly related to everybody

0:29:510:29:54

on the mountain, he might have been very torn!

0:29:540:29:56

HE CHUCKLES

0:29:560:29:59

Well, clearly, the shadow of the Plantation is immense.

0:30:030:30:08

In George's time, it was an absolute fact of life.

0:30:080:30:11

They were living with something from two centuries before

0:30:110:30:15

which had totally upended the natural order of things.

0:30:150:30:19

I'm intrigued to know whether George O'Mullan,

0:30:230:30:26

who was in a very precarious situation in Glack,

0:30:260:30:30

felt at all ostracised by his community

0:30:300:30:32

and by the people who surrounded him.

0:30:320:30:35

Mark's in the heart of O'Cahan's country at the local museum

0:30:370:30:41

in the town of Garvagh.

0:30:410:30:43

He's meeting historian Dr Paddy McWilliams to look at

0:30:460:30:50

an unlikely source of information about the local Irish population

0:30:500:30:54

in George O'Mullan's time - the Ordnance Survey of Ireland.

0:30:540:30:59

-So, Mark, this is done on a scale of six inches to a mile.

-Right.

0:30:590:31:03

-Amazing level of detail.

-Amazing detail.

0:31:030:31:05

-But quite a bare landscape in a way.

-Yeah. There's Glack.

0:31:050:31:09

-There's Glack townland.

-Looks just like it did this morning.

-Yes.

0:31:090:31:13

-Which means?

-It's on "glack",

0:31:130:31:16

-means the "hollow" or the "recess".

-Right.

0:31:160:31:19

-Quite non-specific.

-Yes.

0:31:190:31:21

The British Ordnance Survey project of the 1820s and '30s

0:31:210:31:26

set out to map Ireland and record Irish place names,

0:31:260:31:30

including George O'Mullan's family homestead at Ashlamaduff.

0:31:300:31:34

And over here we have the townland of Ashlamaduff.

0:31:340:31:37

Ashlamaduff, yes, which keeps recurring.

0:31:370:31:40

Ashlamaduff. Your stress isn't in the right place. Ashlam-aduff.

0:31:400:31:43

-Ashlam-aduff.

-Ashlamaduff.

-Ashlamaduff. Right. Which means?

0:31:430:31:47

Which is "Ashlamaduff" - it's "bare black hill".

0:31:470:31:50

But to investigate the origins of place names, John O'Donovan,

0:31:500:31:56

one of the principal field workers of the Ordnance Survey, traversed,

0:31:560:31:59

I'd say, every nook and cranny of the country for a number of years.

0:31:590:32:02

And what we have here is a letter

0:32:020:32:05

written by John O'Donovan

0:32:050:32:08

to the head of the Ordnance Survey

0:32:080:32:10

detailing his experiences in this part of the world, 1834.

0:32:100:32:14

"Dear Sir, I have travelled through the parishes..."

0:32:140:32:18

-Er...several Irish names.

-Yes.

0:32:190:32:22

"..in search of Aborigines." Wow!

0:32:220:32:24

-He meant Irish speakers.

-Right.

0:32:240:32:27

"I passed through the wildest district I ever beheld

0:32:270:32:30

"in the townlands of Glack.

0:32:300:32:32

"I was at length directed to a Mr Mullan,

0:32:320:32:36

"Land Steward to Mr Sampson." So Mr Mullan, is that George O'Mullan?

0:32:360:32:41

-That's George.

-Oh, right.

0:32:410:32:43

-"He is a very intelligent man..."

-Naturally.

0:32:430:32:47

"..and has a general idea of the county.

0:32:470:32:50

"I spent the greater part of yesterday with him

0:32:500:32:53

"to get him to define their topographical words.

0:32:530:32:56

-"Tur."

-Hm-mm.

0:32:560:32:58

-"A talking place", maybe where people gathered to gossip.

-Yes.

0:32:580:33:03

-"Evish."

-Yes.

-Avish.

-Evish.

0:33:030:33:05

-"Soft grass, wild mountain pasture."

-Mm-hm.

0:33:050:33:09

So, your ancestor, through his meeting with O'Donovan,

0:33:090:33:12

was able to provide, what, more than a dozen

0:33:120:33:15

-little snippets of information...

-How wonderful.

0:33:150:33:18

..that John O'Donovan used.

0:33:180:33:21

So, your ancestor made an impression on O'Donovan.

0:33:210:33:24

He was a Land Steward, he sort of worked for the other side,

0:33:240:33:27

you might say, to a certain degree.

0:33:270:33:29

Yet, I don't think he lived at arm's length from the people

0:33:290:33:32

because I don't think a person would be able to be so imbued

0:33:320:33:36

and so aware of their origin

0:33:360:33:38

and of the living history around them

0:33:380:33:41

and the traditions and recollections of the county.

0:33:410:33:44

I think was certainly not at arm's length from the people

0:33:440:33:47

amongst whom he lived. No, a decent, decent sort.

0:33:470:33:50

Without his input, O'Donovan perhaps would have had more difficulty

0:33:500:33:54

in ascertaining the local townland names

0:33:540:33:56

which are still here to this day.

0:33:560:33:58

-And this one...

-Have a stab at that.

0:33:580:34:01

Well, I'll go round the houses cos it doesn't -

0:34:010:34:04

it won't sound at all like it looks.

0:34:040:34:06

-"Sissan"?

-"Sheskin".

0:34:060:34:09

-"Sheskin".

-"Sheskin".

0:34:090:34:11

Quag. A quaw. A quag, a shaking bog.

0:34:110:34:13

Yeah, I think that's short for quagmire.

0:34:130:34:16

Unlike perhaps in England or in Great Britain,

0:34:160:34:18

where things are written down,

0:34:180:34:20

history in Ireland was passed down primarily in an oral manner.

0:34:200:34:24

John O'Donovan's enquires

0:34:240:34:26

unearthed a lot of oral history that was about to disappear,

0:34:260:34:30

and he meandered into some wonderful tales.

0:34:300:34:33

George O'Mullan told a story to O'Donovan.

0:34:330:34:36

-Great. So, there's more...

-There's more indeed.

0:34:360:34:38

What have we got here?

0:34:380:34:40

"Mullan tells the following story of the fate of the O'Kanes." Oh, good.

0:34:400:34:45

As well as explaining local names,

0:34:450:34:47

George O'Mullan was a keeper of the family stories.

0:34:470:34:50

"He reached..."

0:34:500:34:52

He told O'Donovan a colourful and elaborate tale of distant ancestors

0:34:520:34:57

in O'Cahan's country.

0:34:570:34:59

"He drew his dagger and ran him through!" Exclamation mark.

0:34:590:35:03

I think the gist of it, Mark, is that the rightful O'Kane heir

0:35:030:35:08

was killed by a usurper, and he, in turn, met his comeuppance

0:35:080:35:13

at the hand of the followers of the rightful heir.

0:35:130:35:17

That's quite a yarn, isn't it? The fall of the O'Kanes.

0:35:170:35:21

The fall of the O'Kanes indeed. I'd be amazed if this was the only story

0:35:210:35:24

-that George knew. I can't believe it.

-Yeah, yeah.

0:35:240:35:27

And O'Donovan probably heard more but told this particular one because

0:35:270:35:30

of the intrigue and the skulduggery involved in it.

0:35:300:35:33

A modern seanachi would perhaps tell you more than I could.

0:35:330:35:36

-And what's that?

-Seanachi is the Irish word for "storyteller".

0:35:360:35:39

It appeals to me because it makes it feel like

0:35:390:35:42

there's storytelling in the blood.

0:35:420:35:45

I'm really taken by the fact that George O'Mullan was regarded

0:35:490:35:54

as something of a storyteller, a "seanachi".

0:35:540:35:58

So, I'm now going to try and meet the genuine article

0:35:580:36:03

and see if he can tell me a bit more about him.

0:36:030:36:06

Mark wants to know more family stories of the O'Kanes

0:36:120:36:15

and the O'Mullans that his great-great-great-grandfather

0:36:150:36:18

would have passed down.

0:36:180:36:19

-Hello, Bob.

-Mark.

-How are you?

-Very well, thank you.

0:36:190:36:23

-Welcome to Glenullin.

-Thank you.

0:36:230:36:25

You'll see a few headstones...

0:36:260:36:29

-Yeah, familiar names.

-..which are familiar names.

0:36:290:36:32

Mullan, Mullan, Mullan, O'Kane.

0:36:320:36:35

Mark's joined Bob Curran at St Joseph's Church

0:36:350:36:38

in the village of Glenullin.

0:36:380:36:40

Bob is a folklorist - as well as a storyteller.

0:36:430:36:46

People like George O'Mullan would have imbibed

0:36:460:36:50

the traditions of the area.

0:36:500:36:52

We're beginning to look at stories, myths, folklore

0:36:520:36:56

and bits and pieces of history,

0:36:560:36:59

all fused together to give the people a sense of belonging

0:36:590:37:04

and to give them their identity.

0:37:040:37:07

And I suppose they get more and more embroidered as generations pass?

0:37:070:37:11

Well, you see, these are oral stories, Mark,

0:37:110:37:14

and in order to remember the stories,

0:37:140:37:17

you had to have wonderful facts.

0:37:170:37:19

The more spectacular the story, the better they remembered it.

0:37:190:37:22

And in this area, you're surrounded by supernatural.

0:37:220:37:28

So, are there any famous stories that George would have known around

0:37:280:37:32

the supernatural that actually concerned the family, the clan?

0:37:320:37:36

-Well, Mark, I know you're very interested in vampires.

-Tends to be.

0:37:360:37:41

Yes. Now, the Irish for vampire

0:37:410:37:47

is "dearg-dul", the "red drinker".

0:37:470:37:51

And here is a book which might be of interest to you

0:37:510:37:56

and has a story in it which is connected to the O'Cahans,

0:37:560:38:01

which George O'Mullan would undoubtedly have known

0:38:010:38:05

-and may well have formed one of the strands..

-Of Dracula!

0:38:050:38:07

-..of Dracula.

-How brilliant!

0:38:070:38:10

So, you think Stoker would have known them?

0:38:100:38:12

Well, in this area,

0:38:120:38:15

the word "Droch-fhoula" means "bad blood".

0:38:150:38:18

-No!

-Yes.

0:38:180:38:20

-THEY LAUGH

-That's too good!

0:38:200:38:24

-Where am I looking?

-You're looking, I think, about Page 64.

0:38:240:38:28

"The Tale of Abhartach."

0:38:290:38:31

-Abhartach.

-Abhartach.

0:38:310:38:33

"The legend comes from the townland of Slaghtaverty

0:38:330:38:37

"near the town of Garvagh in North Derry, which, though it is

0:38:370:38:40

"only a few miles from the town, is still a fairly isolated spot.

0:38:400:38:43

"It lies in the Glenullin Valley and is cut off on three sides

0:38:430:38:46

"by the beginning of the Sperrins mountain range.

0:38:460:38:49

"In the fifth and sixth centuries, this valley

0:38:490:38:52

"was a patchwork of tiny kingdoms,

0:38:520:38:53

"each ruled by individual kings

0:38:530:38:55

"who are little more than local warlords."

0:38:550:38:59

-So, this vampire story concerns an O'Kane?

-It does, yeah.

0:38:590:39:03

It would have been a story known to my

0:39:030:39:06

-great-great-great-grandfather O'Mullan?

-Yeah.

0:39:060:39:10

-And Slaghtaverty is still there?

-You can go and have a look at it.

0:39:100:39:14

Before the sun goes down!

0:39:140:39:16

I would go there pretty quick!

0:39:160:39:18

THEY LAUGH

0:39:180:39:21

Now, whatever you do, Mark,

0:39:210:39:22

-don't try to lift the stone or the vampire will get out again.

-OK.

0:39:220:39:28

"Those under the harsh rulership of Abhartach wished to get rid of him.

0:39:440:39:47

"But because of his dark powers,

0:39:470:39:49

"they were too frightened to attack him themselves.

0:39:490:39:51

"So, they hired another chieftain called Cathan..."

0:39:510:39:55

or "Cathain" - O'Kane -

0:39:550:39:57

"..to come and kill him for them, which he did, slaying Abhartach

0:39:570:40:01

"and burying him standing up -

0:40:010:40:04

"a befitting burial for an Irish chieftain.

0:40:040:40:07

"The next day, however, Abhartach was back

0:40:070:40:11

"demanding a basin filled with blood from the wrists of his subjects.

0:40:110:40:14

"'In order,' says the legend, 'to sustain his vile corpse.'

0:40:140:40:18

"Puzzled, Cathan went to a holy man and asked him the reason.

0:40:190:40:24

"The holy man thought for a moment.

0:40:240:40:27

"'The evil Abhartach is not dead,' he replied at length.

0:40:340:40:37

"'But he is in a state of suspension due to his dark arts.

0:40:370:40:41

"'He has become one of the neamh-mairbh

0:40:410:40:44

"'and cannot, therefore, be killed.

0:40:440:40:46

"'But he can be prevented from rising again.

0:40:460:40:50

"'In order to do this,' the hermit told him,

0:40:500:40:52

"'Cathan must slay Abhartach with a sword made of yew wood,

0:40:520:40:56

"'he must bury him upside down,

0:40:560:40:58

"'he must surround the gravesite with thorns,

0:40:580:41:01

"'and he must place a great stone

0:41:010:41:03

"'directly above the spot where the vampire lay.'

0:41:030:41:06

"The grave is still there.

0:41:060:41:08

"It is said that the thorns that Cathan placed around the site

0:41:080:41:11

"have grown together into a thorn tree

0:41:110:41:14

"that grows above the remnants of the sepulchre."

0:41:140:41:17

"Even today, local people will not approach the field after nightfall."

0:41:170:41:23

ANIMAL HOWLS

0:41:230:41:26

Which, looking at the state of the sun,

0:41:260:41:28

means that we should probably get out of here!

0:41:280:41:31

George O'Mullan was a brilliant storyteller,

0:41:380:41:40

so I don't want to over-romanticise it,

0:41:400:41:42

but it sort of feels like maybe that's where I get it from.

0:41:420:41:46

Somehow, there's a little slant towards all that

0:41:470:41:50

which comes from being of this stock way, way, way back.

0:41:500:41:55

I'd like to think so.

0:41:550:41:56

That might be just me romanticising, I don't know. Might be just cos

0:41:560:41:59

I spent too much time watching horror films as a child.

0:41:590:42:01

But it's... It feels right, it feels like it's coming from somewhere

0:42:010:42:06

and I rather like that.

0:42:060:42:08

And all that brilliant stuff, you can feel it, you know,

0:42:100:42:15

still feels possible on a dark night like this,

0:42:150:42:18

in the middle of Northern Ireland.

0:42:180:42:20

Clearly, we know from his storytelling that George was

0:42:340:42:37

very aware and very proud of his roots,

0:42:370:42:40

but, um, his story is very up and down, isn't it?

0:42:400:42:44

George O'Mullan had a job as a Land Steward

0:42:440:42:47

for the British Landlords, the Company of Fishmongers,

0:42:470:42:50

but like his neighbours, he was also a tenant farmer

0:42:500:42:54

renting poor land at Glack,

0:42:540:42:56

as well as the homestead, Ashlamaduff.

0:42:560:42:59

Mark wants to know what became of George and his family,

0:43:000:43:04

and get to the bottom of how his son, Jeremiah,

0:43:040:43:07

came to own such a vast amount of land.

0:43:070:43:10

I'm off now to Drumcovitt House

0:43:100:43:12

which is a Georgian house originally owned by the Company Of Fishmongers,

0:43:120:43:17

of whom we've heard a lot,

0:43:170:43:19

to meet a historian called Olwen Purdue.

0:43:190:43:23

Olwen has been searching the livery company's records

0:43:400:43:43

for more information about George.

0:43:430:43:45

The first, from 1836.

0:43:450:43:48

You might like to have a look at this document

0:43:490:43:52

from the Fishmongers' Company.

0:43:520:43:54

"We received a petition of George O'Mullan, Glack,

0:43:540:43:58

"stating that in consequence of the extreme severity of the last winter

0:43:580:44:02

"he had lost 15 head of black cattle and four horses,

0:44:020:44:07

"and soliciting a loan of £100 at 5% to enable him

0:44:070:44:11

"to continue his improvements and to bring more land into cultivation,

0:44:110:44:15

"which sum he would repay at the end of five years

0:44:150:44:19

"or by yearly instalments as the court may please direct."

0:44:190:44:22

He's taking out quite a significant loan here and promising to repay it.

0:44:220:44:25

-That's a lot of money.

-It was a big, big investment.

-Yeah.

0:44:250:44:28

As well as the grazing, would there have been crops?

0:44:280:44:31

He would have been trying to grow potatoes,

0:44:310:44:34

I would have imagined, as well. I mean, ultimately, at this stage,

0:44:340:44:37

potatoes were the bulk of the population, were the staple diet.

0:44:370:44:41

-When was the famine?

-Famine started in 1845.

0:44:410:44:44

So, it would... I mean, he didn't know this,

0:44:440:44:46

but it's getting very close to the big crash, isn't it?

0:44:460:44:51

George O'Mullan was heavily in debt when the famine hit.

0:44:510:44:54

For seven years after a blight wiped out the potato crop in 1845,

0:44:540:44:59

the Great Famine devastated Ireland.

0:44:590:45:03

Nearly a million people died from starvation and disease,

0:45:030:45:07

contributing to a mass exodus from the island.

0:45:070:45:10

The kind of land that George was trying to cultivate,

0:45:100:45:15

the famine hit very hard indeed

0:45:150:45:16

and continued, really, until 1850, 1851.

0:45:160:45:21

There was an agricultural depression at the time, as well,

0:45:210:45:24

so things were really, really hard across the board.

0:45:240:45:27

So, out of five sons of George, four of them migrated,

0:45:270:45:31

two to New York and we think two to Australia,

0:45:310:45:35

and leaving Jeremiah, the fifth son, here at home with his father.

0:45:350:45:40

That's interesting. I wonder why he chose to stay behind.

0:45:400:45:43

You do suspect that this was something that was very important

0:45:430:45:47

to George, to have one son with him, presumably helping him out.

0:45:470:45:51

So, I think for Jeremiah to stay,

0:45:510:45:54

to carry on that family presence here was very important.

0:45:540:45:58

So, you might want to now look at this next document, 1852.

0:45:580:46:04

"The Deputation much regretted to find that the Company's old tenant,

0:46:040:46:10

"George O'Mullan, had been dispossessed

0:46:100:46:12

"of his holding in Glack." Hard times.

0:46:120:46:16

After putting all that effort and all that money in,

0:46:160:46:19

he's basically just chucked out on his ear.

0:46:190:46:22

And would that be basically because obviously he was...

0:46:230:46:27

He would have been increasingly behind with his payments

0:46:270:46:30

and that it never really... And then the famine hit and it was all blown?

0:46:300:46:33

-Absolutely.

-And it also it says here:

0:46:330:46:36

"His age being greatly against his so doing..."

0:46:360:46:38

So, he was clearly too old to make a fresh start.

0:46:380:46:42

There is a mystery here

0:46:420:46:43

because we know Jeremiah, who stayed behind, we now know...

0:46:430:46:50

-in the 1880s. he is listed as having quite a lot of land.

-Yeah.

0:46:500:46:56

So, his fortunes certainly improve, if not his father's.

0:46:560:47:00

Do we know anything about that?

0:47:000:47:02

This affidavit might actually start to give you some clues

0:47:020:47:04

as to what happened to Jeremiah.

0:47:040:47:07

This is a bit later.

0:47:070:47:09

This is 1876.

0:47:090:47:12

So, this is...an affidavit.

0:47:120:47:16

"Jeremiah O'Mullan, the only other son of the said George O'Mullan

0:47:170:47:20

"and Bridget, his wife,

0:47:200:47:22

"and the brother of the said Bernard O'Mullan,

0:47:220:47:25

"and that since his father's death about 13 years ago

0:47:250:47:28

"he has always resided in,

0:47:280:47:30

"and now resides in, Ashlamaduff aforesaid in said county."

0:47:300:47:34

Mark's great-great-great-grandfather,

0:47:340:47:37

George O'Mullan, died at Ashlamaduff around 1861.

0:47:370:47:43

Jeremiah, the only son remaining in Ireland,

0:47:430:47:46

stayed on at the homestead, still just a tenant.

0:47:460:47:50

We have to ask why was this affidavit needed?

0:47:500:47:54

This letter might help shed some light on the mystery.

0:47:540:47:59

-"August 24th, 1875."

-This is a letter.

0:47:590:48:03

"Mr Jeremiah O'Mullan.

0:48:030:48:04

"Dear Sir, a letter from Messrs Fitzharding & Son

0:48:040:48:08

"of New South Wales,

0:48:080:48:09

"solicitors for the executors of your brother Bernard O'Mullan.

0:48:090:48:13

"Your brother died with the considerable sum estimated at

0:48:130:48:16

"£20,000 and that by his will he bequeathed the principal part of it

0:48:160:48:21

"to his brothers George Vaughn, Neil Arthur,

0:48:210:48:23

"yourself and John in equal shares.

0:48:230:48:26

"The object of the communication is to obtain

0:48:260:48:28

"the address of yourself and brothers in this country."

0:48:280:48:30

Oh, my God! So, it's an inheritance!

0:48:300:48:34

That would have been £5,000 then,

0:48:340:48:36

which would be about £400,000 today.

0:48:360:48:38

-It's a fortune.

-It is a fortune. It's a lot of money.

0:48:380:48:41

So, Bernard has done very well in Australia.

0:48:410:48:43

-Do we know what he was doing?

-He was a grazier.

0:48:430:48:46

-Like his dad.

-Like his dad.

-Wow!

0:48:460:48:49

Gosh, that's wonderful.

0:48:490:48:52

So, out of this adversity something has come.

0:48:520:48:56

We know from the Public Records Office Jeremiah invested a lot of it

0:48:560:48:59

in land himself cos he has hundreds of acres.

0:48:590:49:03

So, finally...

0:49:050:49:07

"An Indenture of Conveyance,

0:49:070:49:10

"1891, made between the Corporation of Master and Wardens

0:49:100:49:14

"and Brother and Sisters of the Guild of Fraternity

0:49:140:49:16

"of Corpus Christi of Skinners of London, and Jeremiah O'Mullan

0:49:160:49:20

"of Ashlamaduff, Garvagh, in County Londonderry, farmer,

0:49:200:49:24

"therein after called the Purchaser of the third part."

0:49:240:49:27

And that is Ashlamaduff.

0:49:270:49:31

-So, he bought it.

-He's bought it.

0:49:310:49:34

Well, well.

0:49:340:49:35

Rather than investing in rich arable land somewhere else

0:49:350:49:39

-in the country, he's basically bought home.

-He has. Yeah.

0:49:390:49:42

It shows the deep commitment he had to home.

0:49:420:49:45

This was a really important thing for him to do.

0:49:450:49:48

-To be able to actually own the land...

-Yeah.

0:49:480:49:50

-..was really something.

-And own their clan land, really.

0:49:500:49:54

I mean, going back to the O'Cahans and everything,

0:49:540:49:57

this is their territory.

0:49:570:49:58

You can imagine him wishing that his father had lived to see it

0:49:580:50:01

cos it's one of those things, isn't it?

0:50:010:50:04

-"If my dad could see me now."

-He'd be so proud.

-He'd be so proud.

0:50:040:50:07

Is it still mine?

0:50:070:50:09

Well, actually, it is still owned by a member of your family,

0:50:090:50:13

a lady called Betty Ann McNicholl

0:50:130:50:16

who lives just down the road in Dungiven,

0:50:160:50:19

-and the property itself isn't far away.

-Wow!

0:50:190:50:23

-Well, that's fantastic.

-So, it's still in the family.

0:50:230:50:26

This whole situation is like a western, I think -

0:50:320:50:35

the grazing of the cattle, the pushing out of the indigenous people

0:50:350:50:39

onto the poor land.

0:50:390:50:40

It's really interesting.

0:50:400:50:43

And this is a bit like a Native American

0:50:430:50:45

getting a little bit of Manhattan back. I'm going to write a western,

0:50:450:50:49

that's what I'm going to do, and film it here.

0:50:490:50:51

It is a brilliant story.

0:50:510:50:54

"The land is them, they are the land."

0:50:540:50:56

That's the tag line of the film, by the way!

0:50:560:50:58

Mark's in the town of Dungiven to pick up his distant cousin,

0:51:090:51:13

Betty Ann McNicholl.

0:51:130:51:16

Betty Ann is Jeremiah O'Mullan's great-granddaughter,

0:51:160:51:19

one generation closer to him than Mark.

0:51:190:51:22

-Pleasure to meet you, Mark.

-Pleased to meet you.

-Are you coming in,

0:51:220:51:25

-maybe for a cup of tea?

-Yes. Yes. As long as there's a cup of tea.

0:51:250:51:27

-This is him...

-Ah, my goodness.

0:51:270:51:31

..in the 1850s.

0:51:310:51:33

Aye, my Uncle Jerry's very like him.

0:51:330:51:35

We always talk about the O'Kane nose,

0:51:350:51:38

my Uncle Pat has it, my mum had this nose...

0:51:380:51:41

-Ah, yes.

-..but I think it's an O'Mullan nose now.

0:51:410:51:43

And believe it or not, my sons have it.

0:51:430:51:46

-So, there we are.

-I'm proud of it now! I used to hate it!

0:51:460:51:49

THEY LAUGH

0:51:490:51:51

I'll show you this photograph of my grandfather.

0:51:510:51:54

Now, he'd be a son of Jeremiah.

0:51:540:51:56

This was in the boat coming home from America, the SS America.

0:51:560:52:02

And that's my grandfather, James O'Mullan, a son of Jeremiah,

0:52:020:52:07

and a brother of great-aunt Margaret.

0:52:070:52:10

-Great-grandmother.

-Great-grandmother.

0:52:100:52:13

-And that's myself.

-Huh-huh.

-That's my brother and my mother.

0:52:130:52:17

So, you were born in America?

0:52:170:52:19

I was born in Long Island, New York.

0:52:190:52:21

You could run for President!

0:52:210:52:23

I still have my American passport, though.

0:52:230:52:27

And I've also here photographs of your two aunts,

0:52:270:52:30

Winifred and Rose, your great-aunts, I should say.

0:52:300:52:33

-Your mother was Winifred.

-My mother was Winifred, yeah. Winifred Rose.

0:52:330:52:37

-She was named after...

-Winifred Rose.

0:52:370:52:39

-Oh, for goodness' sake, named after the two of them.

-Mm.

0:52:390:52:42

Isn't that lovely? When did your mother die?

0:52:420:52:44

-2003.

-2003, uh-huh.

0:52:440:52:48

-You have a look of my mum, as well.

-Is that right?

-You do, yeah.

0:52:480:52:51

THEY CHUCKLE

0:52:510:52:53

Betty Ann grew up at Ashlamaduff from her early teens.

0:53:020:53:06

She now rents the land to cousins - Mullans - who still farm it.

0:53:060:53:11

So, this is it, then.

0:53:210:53:22

-This is the homestead.

-The old homestead.

-That's right.

0:53:220:53:26

-Ashlamaduff.

-Ashlamaduff. Happy memories.

0:53:260:53:29

So, do you remember what you what you thought

0:53:290:53:31

-when you first saw it after coming from America?

-Not really.

0:53:310:53:36

I just remember getting out of the car,

0:53:360:53:39

up at the door and all the people being there...

0:53:390:53:42

And they had a big ceili house,

0:53:420:53:44

and plenty of laughing and singing and dancing.

0:53:440:53:47

-A welcoming committee, was it?

-A welcoming committee.

-Yeah.

0:53:470:53:51

-All the neighbours and cousins had all arrived to meet us.

-Right.

0:53:510:53:55

-Uh-huh.

-Well, there it is.

0:53:550:53:59

-It was home to me.

-Yeah, mm.

0:53:590:54:02

We had our rosary every night down on the cement floor

0:54:020:54:05

and that was...the way it was.

0:54:050:54:09

It's very, er...

0:54:090:54:10

It's very it's striking that I think that there's so much travel,

0:54:100:54:15

-lots of people in the family going to Australia and America...

-Yes.

0:54:150:54:20

-..but there's the sense of wanting to come home...

-Oh, yes.

0:54:200:54:25

-..is incredibly strong, isn't it?

-Aye.

0:54:250:54:27

And there's a pull, there's always the pull to your homeland, you know?

0:54:270:54:31

There's something about this here,

0:54:310:54:33

of course, because your grandfathers

0:54:330:54:36

and your great-grandfathers...

0:54:360:54:38

It's where your heart lies, just, you know?

0:54:380:54:41

And it's still in the family, you've kept it going.

0:54:410:54:44

Still kept it going, please God, we will as long as we can, whatever.

0:54:440:54:48

Just only time will tell.

0:54:480:54:51

-Now, in we go.

-Watch your step, watch your step.

-Uh-huh.

0:54:520:54:56

There we are.

0:54:560:54:58

Well, when I lived here, that's the fireplace,

0:55:000:55:03

-there was a big fire burning there with our kitchen table there.

-Yeah.

0:55:030:55:07

That was all those years ago.

0:55:070:55:11

-It's a shame to see it like this, isn't it?

-Aye.

0:55:110:55:14

It's over 50 years, you know, since anybody lived here.

0:55:140:55:18

-And there we are.

-Extraordinary. It is.

-Mm-hm.

0:55:180:55:22

Several generations in here.

0:55:220:55:24

-I'm going to see if I can get round the side.

-OK, Mark.

0:55:350:55:38

Like his father, George, before him,

0:55:380:55:41

Jeremiah O'Mullan died here

0:55:410:55:43

at Ashlamaduff in 1908. He was 75.

0:55:430:55:48

It's wonderful to find something as tangible as this.

0:55:480:55:51

As a homestead, I just really can't get over how bleak it is.

0:55:520:55:58

It's such tough country.

0:55:580:56:01

The choice to live here,

0:56:020:56:06

in such a landscape, it's moving, really.

0:56:060:56:09

I like him for doing it.

0:56:090:56:11

Hm.

0:56:150:56:17

I should really take a little bit back.

0:56:190:56:22

HE CHUCKLES

0:56:220:56:23

Build something around it.

0:56:250:56:27

Living with the legends and the history of the O'Mullans

0:56:360:56:41

and the O'Kanes, and having once been kings in ancient times,

0:56:410:56:46

is a very strong sense of ownership and dispossession

0:56:460:56:50

and then a rightful restoration.

0:56:500:56:52

To have been bought by Jeremiah,

0:56:540:56:57

almost certainly lived in by George O'Mullan,

0:56:570:57:01

sort of brings the whole story full circle.

0:57:010:57:04

I'm very heartened to know it's still in the O'Mullan family.

0:57:040:57:09

And by dint of that, somehow the O'Kanes, too,

0:57:100:57:14

as we're all intertwined.

0:57:140:57:16

I have loved every minute of this.

0:57:190:57:21

I don't want to stop.

0:57:210:57:23

I'm definitely coming back,

0:57:230:57:25

at the head of an army, to reclaim my rightful kingdom.

0:57:250:57:29

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