Patagonia with Huw Edwards


Patagonia with Huw Edwards

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It's almost impossible to believe that such a place exists.

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A WOMAN SPEAKS IN WELSH

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A little Wales on a faraway continent,

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where the familiar and the exotic come together in a magical way.

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A rich blend of cultures,

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150 years in the making.

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TRANSLATION FROM WELSH:

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How the Welsh came to be here, and fought to preserve

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their language and culture, is a truly inspiring story.

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They mastered a desolate and hostile frontier,

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armed with remarkable faith and endurance.

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It is our very own Wild West epic.

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I've been following in the footsteps of those intrepid pioneers,

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fulfilling a lifelong dream to visit Patagonia.

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And to see for myself this special corner of South America,

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with its unexpected reminders of rural Wales.

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150 years ago, a group of Welsh people set sail

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and crossed the Atlantic in search of a new life in South America.

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They gambled everything on this great venture.

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And this story of daring and courage

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and enterprise still has the power to fire the imagination.

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It is quite simply

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one of the greatest adventures in the history of Wales.

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The date is Friday 28th July, 1865,

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and the crossing, in rather primitive conditions,

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has taken two months.

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The pioneers, around 160 of them,

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are about to set foot, for the first time, on the shores of Argentina.

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But what they discover here is not what they'd been promised.

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They landed on a barren shore,

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with no reliable supply of fresh water,

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a small advance party was waiting for them,

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but they'd made scant preparation for the arrival.

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Local historian, Fernando Coronato, showed me the makeshift

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man-made hollows in the rock that may have been used as stores,

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or even, he believes, as temporary shelters.

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Fernando, it's an amazing place, with an amazing view, really,

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of the bay, but these remains, why are they so significant?

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What are they?

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They are important because they are the remains of the first

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Welsh footstep in Patagonia.

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It's a mark of the hopes of the people who were

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searching for a new land, to build a new life

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with freedom and, well, sun and fair weather.

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Legend has it that the Welsh sheltered in these natural caves.

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That may or may not be so, but,

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nonetheless, there is very clear evidence of their presence here.

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Still visible today are the marks they left as they dug out

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clay blocks in their first attempts at building.

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-When you look at how primitive, how basic this is...

-Yes.

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In the first month after they arrived,

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did they suffer a lot of hardship?

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I mean, what happened to the women and children?

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There was four babies died,

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and another person,

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Catherine Davies, died, too.

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Catherine Davies was from Llandrillo, she was 38.

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Her baby son had already died

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on that long voyage across the Atlantic.

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I'm just struck, Fernando, by the thought that although they had

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made some preparations, it wasn't enough, was it?

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Is it because people were simply too idealistic

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and they wanted it to succeed, they hadn't really thought it through?

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Well, the propaganda had been very strong in Wales

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and Patagonia was...

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drawn too fantastic a region.

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And the reality is not that way.

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There's no easy way to say this, but those first settlers

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had been very badly misled, and here's the proof.

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It's a little booklet for prospective migrants,

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written by Hugh Hughes in 1862.

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He would be part of that first wave.

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And in it he describes splendid expanses of green forest,

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herds of animals, rich pastures.

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"And the rainfall," he says, "is as regular as it is in Wales."

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At best, the leaders of this venture were guilty of wishful thinking.

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The negatives ignored, the positives greatly exaggerated.

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There was a heavy price.

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Before long, this unforgiving terrain had claimed its first victim.

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Daffyd Williams was a cobbler from Aberystwyth

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and on his first day ashore, he clambered up from the beach and started walking.

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He was looking for that fertile valley

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that he'd read about in the booklet.

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He was never seen again.

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And two years later, his remains were found at a place

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called Pant Yr Esgyrn, the Vale Of Bones.

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And he was identified by his ring

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and his cobbler's thimble.

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So, why venture to this back of beyond,

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which had resisted the efforts of all previous settlers?

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It was the idea of Michael D Jones.

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This outlandish project began to form when Jones saw a problem

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that he felt was set to destroy the Wales he loved.

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Welsh coal-mining was attracting thousands of English speakers

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to South Wales, and Jones feared that the native language

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and culture would quickly disappear.

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He believed that the only way that Welshness could be preserved

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was by establishing a new Wales in one of the most remote places

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on Earth, where no other language or culture would ever dilute it.

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So, when the Argentine government offered an isolated tract of land

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along the Chubut River, it seemed ideal.

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And Jones set about persuading able Welsh-speaking people

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to give up everything for a new life in the wilderness.

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For Michael D Jones, the departure of the Mimosa

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in 1865 with 153 people on board, was the realisation of a dream.

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This parched landscape of scrub and thorns

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couldn't be more different from the Wales they'd left behind.

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But, armed with remarkable faith and endurance,

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they pushed on 40 miles to their promised land.

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The river valley, where they hoped to build a new life.

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It really is no exaggeration to say that this is the life source

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of this part of Patagonia. This is the River Chubut.

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The River Camwy, as the Welsh used to call it, flows for over 500 miles

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from the Andes in the west, over to the Atlantic in the east.

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And the river has been an immense blessing,

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creating fertile land and sustaining life,

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but it's also been a bit of a curse at times,

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especially in the winter months,

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overflowing its banks and causing some pretty destructive flooding.

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Even though the settlers' first wooden homes were swept away,

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it seemed there was no alternative but to settle close to the river.

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The snows and rains that caused the flooding were falling far away

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in the Andes, and not on the parched and barren soil

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that formed the greater part of the land that they'd been given.

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It is difficult today to get a real sense of the extreme suffering

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and hardship of those first few years,

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and there are some unsettling reports.

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In 1871, it was suggested that the Welsh had been reduced

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to eating grass in order to survive.

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Emergency supplies were sent by the Argentine government.

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The Royal Navy brought in British help.

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No wonder that one of the settlers loudly proclaimed,

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"God save John Bull."

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There was mutiny in the air

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and in 1867, most of the settlers were ready to abandon the venture,

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but they were persuaded to give the colony one last chance.

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And then came one vital innovation that changed everything.

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And without it, the modern state of Chubut in Argentina might simply not exist.

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In a dazzling feat of engineering, those early pioneers dug a network

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of irrigation canals across the valley and turned the desert green.

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The Welsh have certainly left their mark on Patagonia

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and made an enormous contribution,

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but there is no contribution greater than this one -

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bringing a supply of water over many miles, into the middle of this

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barren land, and transforming it into a fertile plain.

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And today's farmers are still benefiting from that Welsh achievement.

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Near his small farm in the Chubut Valley, Benito Jones showed me

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how much this breakthrough means.

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He still speaks the language that his forefathers came here to protect,

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and though the accent is different, it is still reassuringly familiar.

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TRANSLATION FROM WELSH:

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It's only from space that you can really grasp what was achieved here.

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A vast green strip, surrounded by semi-desert.

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The same irrigation system that made agriculture possible here

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still sustains Aldwyn Brunt,

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farming in much the same way as his ancestors.

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His home is something of a time capsule, full of relics,

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paying homage to the colony's founding fathers.

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TRANSLATION FROM WELSH:

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There's even a first-hand account of those pioneering days,

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a memoir written by Benjamin Brunt in old age.

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HE READS IN WELSH

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Within just one decade, Benjamin Brunt was winning prizes

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in the US and in France for the quality of his wheat and his barley.

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But it took many years for those farms to prosper,

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and the Welsh colony might not have survived those early days

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without the help of the indigenous people, the nomadic Tehuelche

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Indians, who traded with them and taught them to hunt for food.

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By and large, it was a remarkably peaceful coexistence,

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but it is ironic that the Welsh,

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in their search for a haven from discrimination at home,

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were now taking land from an oppressed minority

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on another continent.

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We should add a note of caution

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about this bond between the Welsh and the native peoples.

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There's been a tendency to draw a rather sentimental picture about it.

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For a start, the Argentine government PAID the native peoples

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not to attack the Welsh and to allow them to settle.

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There was plenty of trade between the two communities.

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The Welsh bartered things like bread and butter and sugar,

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and got rather more valuable things in return such as animal skins

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and blankets and ostrich feathers.

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And there are plenty of suggestions of questionable Welsh behaviour,

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such as buying horses with a few loaves of bread

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and selling alcohol to the native peoples, and that is something

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that caused untold misery, as it had done in the American West.

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Crossing this vast landscape today,

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you find very few traces of the Tehuelche Indians.

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They were dealt a crushing blow in the 1880s

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when Argentine troops carried out a campaign to kill

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the indigenous people and seize their lands.

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To their credit, the Welsh often intervened, but it's no wonder

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that this genocidal campaign provoked attacks on white settlers.

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In March of 1884, a party of four young Welshmen were cornered

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at this very remote spot by a group of native Indians.

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We don't know why. Had the Indians been provoked in some way?

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We can't be sure.

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What we do know is that three of the Welshmen were killed

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in rather brutal circumstances.

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One of them, John Daniel Evans, made a rather miraculous escape.

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He had a detailed knowledge of the Indian trails in these parts,

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and in a tale that's passed into legend,

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his horse, Malacara, carried him away to safety and saved his life.

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This is the memorial, installed by the Welsh

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to remember the three who lost their lives in that dreadful incident.

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When they gathered here to mark the event,

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they sang a simple Welsh hymn.

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VOICES SING

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Within a year, that sole survivor, John Daniel Evans, would play

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a pivotal role in the next chapter of the colony's history.

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He was the pathfinder for a band of explorers - most of them Welshmen -

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on a mission to open up the far west of Patagonia.

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The native people had long spoken of rich, fertile lands,

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surrounded by snow-capped peaks.

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With no room to expand in the Chubut Valley,

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more farmland was needed to attract new immigrants from Wales.

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The adventurers were known as the Rifleros,

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or Rifleman of Chubut,

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and every year their descendants re-enact their arrival.

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And what we have today is a taste,

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a hint of the pioneering spirit of 1885.

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These are today's Rifleros.

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They're on their way to the top of the mountain,

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to raise a banner to celebrate the discovery of this remarkable place.

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Those pioneers had crossed the plains for hundreds of miles,

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and they got their first glimpse of this paradise, this fertile land.

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Their new home - Cwm Hyfryd, "Splendid Valley".

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TRANSLATION FROM WELSH:

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The Rifleros are very proud of their pedigree,

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and their direct links to the founding fathers.

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At last, here was the paradise that the Welsh had dreamed of.

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The rich soils of the valley floor were ideal to grow crops

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and there was plenty of pasture on the surrounding slopes to raise livestock.

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And, of course, cowboy culture came with the territory.

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This is Alejandro Jones and he farms in the traditional way

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on land pioneered by his great-grandfather.

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He combines pride in his Welsh heritage with a love

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for the rugged Argentine way of life in the great outdoors.

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TRANSLATION FROM WELSH:

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It is remarkable how the Welsh adapted to life on this wild frontier.

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And the clearest symbol of that is the asado,

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an outdoor roast, where the whole animal is cooked on an open fire.

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The Green family invited me to taste the experience for myself

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at their home near Trevelin in Cwm Hyfryd.

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TRANSLATION FROM WELSH:

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The asado is a ritual that's enjoyed all over Argentina,

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the perfect occasion to get together with family and friends.

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But here there's one striking difference.

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As the conversation flows, the guests slip easily between Spanish and Welsh.

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MAN SINGS IN WELSH

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The familiar and the exotic are combined in a rather special way by Vincent Evans.

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A Welsh folk song about a lovelorn maiden on the banks of the River Dee,

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performed half a mile away, in the shadow of the Andes.

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I think some viewers will wonder why do you persist with this

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effort to speak Welsh. You speak Spanish, why do you make the effort?

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It's because we feel, we feel Welsh and it's something...

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I don't know.

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-It's important.

-Yes.

-Yes. How about you?

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Fi caru... I love, I love the Welsh language.

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I love Cymru.

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It's such a... I can see that, you know, it's a very emotional thing.

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-Yes? It is a very emotional thing.

-Our grandparents came from Wales.

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The singing of Wales, traditional things from Wales,

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-the flag, everything.

-It's part of you?

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Yes, because Welsh was my first language.

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That was the language my mummy speak...spoke to me.

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The first days.

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At times like this, I have to pinch myself

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and realise that I am 7,000 miles away from Wales,

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enjoying some wonderful food and the best company.

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40 years ago, I heard a teacher at Llangennech Primary School

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tell us about the wonders of Patagonia.

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I never thought I'd have the opportunity to come here,

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but I'm so glad that I have done.

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These people prove something rather special, which is that it

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is perfectly natural to be proud, patriotic citizens of Argentina.

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It is also perfectly natural to be sustaining a Welsh culture

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and way of life.

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And I'm so pleased that I've been able to be part of that.

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Everywhere you look, the signs and symbols of Welshness sit

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comfortably in an Argentine setting. Tokens of a shared heritage.

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But, for the first settlers, there was one aspect of their culture

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that they were determined not to dilute or compromise.

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And this should provide a clue.

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This harmonium still plays a pretty decent hymn tune.

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Not bad considering it arrived here

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a century and a half ago with the Welsh pioneers.

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TRANSLATION FROM WELSH:

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Communal worship was a priority,

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even if it took place in a wooden hut.

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Such was the importance to the settlers of their nonconformist religion.

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Later, as they mastered their harsh environment,

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they built many more chapels.

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Some of those chapels are now dwarfed by urban sprawl.

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Others look much as they must have done when they were built -

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relics of Victorian Wales, transplanted to an alien landscape.

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We should never lose sight of the fact that for those early Welsh settlers,

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their faith, their nonconformist values were absolutely essential.

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That is what sustained them, helped them to get through

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all the trials and the difficulties that they suffered.

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And these chapels, however small

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and however modest they appear, were actually symbols of strength.

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This is Bethel Chapel in Trevelin in the Andes.

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The first meeting house the Welsh built here was a simple log cabin.

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Step inside, you could be in a chapel in rural Wales.

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Except that half the service is in Spanish.

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HE SPEAKS WELSH

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Despite having no Welsh roots, the preacher, Esias Grandis, learnt the language

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after being inspired by the story of the Welsh pioneers.

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HE SPEAKS WELSH

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Their religion bred an independent and radical outlook, up to a point.

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Left alone for more than a decade to govern themselves, they created a

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society unlike Britain in which all men over the age of 18 had the vote.

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But, crucially, the women were excluded.

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And it was here in the Chubut Valley that the institutions

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that upheld these values were founded.

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All run through the medium of Welsh.

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And here I am, I can hardly believe it, 40 years after

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I first had the dream of coming to Patagonia,

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I'm driving towards the Gaiman, which is one of the fortresses of

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Welshness in Patagonia.

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It's a good time to think, with the sun setting here,

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about the ambition and the sacrifice and the vision of those

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settlers 150 years ago. It does make you feel very humble.

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In 1885, Gaiman became the seat of the first elected council in Patagonia.

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Gabriel Restucha has been the town's mayor for the last eight years,

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the first Welsh speaker in the post since the 1950s.

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TRANSLATION FROM WELSH:

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The Welsh also took control of the economy,

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forming a co-operative company in 1885

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that handled almost all local trade.

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And they built a railway linking the Chubut Valley to the coast,

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boosting exports and increasing prosperity.

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It meant that the arduous journey that cost the life

0:33:200:33:23

of the Aberystwyth cobbler Dafydd Williams back in 1865,

0:33:230:33:27

was now accomplished in a few hours.

0:33:270:33:29

And their cultural confidence was expressed through

0:33:310:33:34

the Eisteddfod, a celebration of all things Welsh.

0:33:340:33:37

But success did attract some unwelcome attention.

0:33:370:33:41

The Argentine government didn't see the Welsh community

0:33:430:33:46

as an independent nation in its own right, but as an immigrant part

0:33:460:33:51

of the Argentine population based in Chubut.

0:33:510:33:54

By the 1890s, Welshmen had to take part in military drills on Sundays,

0:33:580:34:02

against their religious principles.

0:34:020:34:06

There was a stand-off. The Welsh appealed for British government help

0:34:060:34:10

and considered relocating the entire colony to South Africa.

0:34:100:34:14

In 1902, nearly 250 settlers did indeed turn their backs on Patagonia

0:34:160:34:21

and resettled in Canada.

0:34:210:34:23

Relations between the Argentines and the Welsh were damaged and

0:34:280:34:31

those left behind sought out a way to declare allegiance to their hosts.

0:34:310:34:36

I'm riding on the Old Patagonian Express, on a route which

0:34:450:34:48

skirts the border with Chile.

0:34:480:34:50

At the turn of the 20th century, the frontier line was bitterly

0:34:510:34:55

contested, with Chile claiming lands where the Welsh had settled.

0:34:550:34:58

In 1902, the settlers were given a choice -

0:35:000:35:03

did they want to be Argentines or Chileans?

0:35:030:35:07

And when they gathered here to vote, they opted decisively for Argentina.

0:35:070:35:11

No-one should be surprised by the result of the vote

0:35:150:35:18

that took place at this school. Just imagine a different outcome.

0:35:180:35:22

You'd have the Welsh community in Patagonia split.

0:35:220:35:25

One part here in the Andes in Chile

0:35:250:35:28

and then the other part, 500 miles to the east in the Chubut Valley, in Argentina.

0:35:280:35:33

So, this was a very significant milestone.

0:35:330:35:36

The Welsh in Patagonia had declared themselves to be Argentine citizens

0:35:360:35:41

and to this day, they are considered to be Argentine heroes

0:35:410:35:45

for the choice they made.

0:35:450:35:47

The display of allegiance healed the rift between the Welsh

0:35:490:35:52

and the Argentines, but the Welsh were not ready to integrate.

0:35:520:35:56

40 years earlier, the colony had been founded to prevent

0:35:590:36:03

the culture and language being overwhelmed by those of England

0:36:030:36:06

and to ensure that it was handed on to the generations to come.

0:36:060:36:10

Now, with a new culture threatening to overwhelm them,

0:36:100:36:13

the colony remained faithful to that original vision.

0:36:130:36:17

They built a school, one that has a fair claim to be the first

0:36:200:36:23

Welsh medium secondary school in the world.

0:36:230:36:27

Wales would wait another 50 years.

0:36:270:36:29

Some of Luned Gonzalez's family members were pupils here in the early days.

0:36:340:36:38

The school received pupils from all

0:36:400:36:43

Patagonia at the beginning.

0:36:430:36:46

From the south and from the west and in Gaiman itself,

0:36:460:36:52

the children who were not of Welsh extraction attended the school.

0:36:520:36:56

But the Argentine government saw no place for Welsh in education.

0:37:000:37:04

State schools fostered patriotism and national unity

0:37:040:37:08

under one language - Spanish.

0:37:080:37:11

They offered something the Welsh school could not,

0:37:110:37:13

official certificates and entry to university.

0:37:130:37:16

So, inevitably, they drew pupils away.

0:37:160:37:19

How did the policy of the central government in Buenos Aires

0:37:210:37:26

affect the status and the teaching of Welsh?

0:37:260:37:29

Well, the effect of that was that Welsh was taught at the

0:37:290:37:34

Band of Hope and at the chapels

0:37:340:37:39

and at the Sunday school, really.

0:37:390:37:42

The Sunday school did a tremendous job to keep alive the Welsh language.

0:37:420:37:48

In the early years of the 20th century,

0:37:520:37:54

the Welsh community was no longer in secure isolation.

0:37:540:37:59

The incomers were routinely in contact with people outside

0:37:590:38:02

their own community.

0:38:020:38:04

One day, Llwyd ap Iwan, the community leader

0:38:040:38:07

and son of the founder Michael D Jones, was out on the plain

0:38:070:38:11

when he got into an argument with two strangers.

0:38:110:38:14

Guns were fired and Jones fell to the ground.

0:38:150:38:18

His murder near this spot in 1909 was a very big blow

0:38:210:38:26

to the Welsh cause in Patagonia.

0:38:260:38:29

He was shot dead by two men, two outlaws,

0:38:290:38:31

at the Welsh co-operative store

0:38:310:38:33

here at Nant y Pysgod in the foothills of the Andes.

0:38:330:38:37

And for many years, there were rumours that he'd been killed by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.

0:38:370:38:42

They'd been on the run here, but, in fact, they had died the previous year.

0:38:420:38:46

The men who shot him were called William Wilson and Robert Evans.

0:38:460:38:50

They were former members of the Butch and Sundance gang.

0:38:500:38:54

It was a reminder that the Welsh couldn't stay insulated

0:38:590:39:02

from the outside world.

0:39:020:39:03

They were fast becoming outnumbered by immigrants from Spain, Portugal and Italy,

0:39:030:39:08

while the flow of new Welsh immigrants had dried up.

0:39:080:39:11

So, it was inevitable that the Welsh lost their political and economic power.

0:39:120:39:17

By the 1920s, the co-op, the backbone of Patagonian business,

0:39:170:39:22

was in trouble and went bankrupt in the Great Depression.

0:39:220:39:25

The nationalisation of the Welsh-owned irrigation company

0:39:280:39:31

in the 1940s was another blow.

0:39:310:39:33

And the Eisteddfod, for so long the centrepiece of the Welsh

0:39:360:39:40

cultural calendar in Patagonia, came to an end in the early 1950s.

0:39:400:39:44

The Welsh became second-class citizens.

0:39:460:39:48

Children were mocked in school as pan y manteca,

0:39:490:39:52

or "bread and butter" Welsh.

0:39:520:39:54

For some, it became a badge of shame.

0:39:540:39:56

Many families in the Chubut Valley have thoroughly Welsh names,

0:39:580:40:02

but they're of a generation that was lost to the language.

0:40:020:40:06

TRANSLATION FROM SPANISH:

0:40:100:40:12

But his parents decided not to pass on the language.

0:40:350:40:38

TRANSLATION FROM SPANISH:

0:40:410:40:43

HIS VOICE BREAKS

0:41:100:41:12

Michael D Jones had dreamt of creating a safe haven

0:41:190:41:22

for Welsh culture.

0:41:220:41:23

By the 1950s, the mission the founding fathers had sacrificed

0:41:250:41:29

so much to achieve appeared doomed to failure.

0:41:290:41:33

The survival of the language was at the very heart of that vision.

0:41:330:41:38

By turning their backs on the language,

0:41:380:41:40

it seemed a new generation of Welsh Patagonians were also rejecting

0:41:400:41:44

the very identity that their ancestors had fought so hard to protect.

0:41:440:41:48

Some films made by the BBC in the early 1960s

0:41:510:41:54

strike a rather sad note.

0:41:540:41:56

Where some of the old leaders lie buried,

0:41:560:41:59

the pampas grass comes creeping back.

0:41:590:42:02

Today, about 5,000 people of Welsh descent live in Patagonia.

0:42:020:42:07

Slowly, they merge with the rest of the Argentinians.

0:42:070:42:10

Their language is dying. But the Welsh opened up Patagonia...

0:42:100:42:14

We invited some of the people who took part in those films to

0:42:150:42:18

view them again half a century on.

0:42:180:42:22

HE SPEAKS SPANISH

0:42:220:42:24

By the 1960s, most chapel services were in Spanish, even if

0:42:260:42:30

the congregation was Welsh.

0:42:300:42:32

HE SPEAKS SPANISH

0:42:340:42:36

But Monw Evans de Hughes was fighting against the rising tide of all things Spanish.

0:42:380:42:43

TRANSLATION FROM WELSH:

0:42:430:42:45

Monw's daughter Donna was only three years old

0:43:220:43:25

when the documentary was filmed.

0:43:250:43:27

TRANSLATION FROM WELSH:

0:43:270:43:29

Geraint Edmonds belonged to a generation with

0:43:510:43:54

an increasingly blurred sense of identity.

0:43:540:43:57

TRANSLATION FROM WELSH:

0:43:570:43:58

It seems appropriate then that I should be chatting to Geraint

0:44:120:44:15

in Welsh in a typical Argentine saloon bar.

0:44:150:44:18

Gracias, senor.

0:44:200:44:22

TRANSLATION FROM WELSH:

0:44:220:44:24

And that could've been the end of the story, but it isn't quite true.

0:44:500:44:54

In 1965, the colony celebrated its centenary, which brought attention,

0:45:000:45:05

money and a revived interest in the vision of the founding fathers.

0:45:050:45:08

Monuments, like this one near the shore where the pioneers landed,

0:45:120:45:16

were built to celebrate their achievement.

0:45:160:45:19

And all this awoke an awareness

0:45:190:45:21

of the debt owed to the founding fathers

0:45:210:45:23

and a new determination to keep their dream alive.

0:45:230:45:26

And then a major turning point came at the beginning of the 1980s.

0:45:310:45:35

Still without bootlaces, they were marched off and up the muddy track.

0:45:350:45:39

The Falklands War brought defeat for the military regime

0:45:410:45:44

and the start of a new democratic era.

0:45:440:45:46

Argentine nationalism gave way to an emphasis on diversity

0:45:500:45:54

and a new interest in learning Welsh.

0:45:540:45:56

Thanks to teachers and funding from Wales,

0:45:580:46:01

there are some 1,200 learners in Patagonia.

0:46:010:46:04

I went to the language centre in Esquel, in the Andes,

0:46:050:46:08

to meet some of them.

0:46:080:46:10

TRANSLATION FROM WELSH:

0:46:100:46:13

What I found striking was that few of the learners

0:46:250:46:28

had obvious Welsh links.

0:46:280:46:30

I spoke to Clare Vaughan, the Welsh language project coordinator.

0:46:300:46:35

What do you think accounts for the surge in interest you're seeing?

0:46:350:46:39

There has been a growing awareness of bilingualism as something good.

0:46:390:46:43

Back in the Dark Ages, it was felt that if you spoke two languages,

0:46:430:46:47

it was a bad thing.

0:46:470:46:49

Now, we've moved on from that and there's an acceptance that

0:46:490:46:52

it's very good for you to have more than one language,

0:46:520:46:56

so that, in general, has helped the cause.

0:46:560:46:58

And I also think there's more acceptance of different roots.

0:46:580:47:01

People in Argentina are becoming more interested in where they've come from

0:47:010:47:05

so that helps.

0:47:050:47:07

And we've got people who come from the big cities

0:47:070:47:09

looking for a better life here and what they love about

0:47:090:47:12

communities like Trevelin, Esquel, is they have a different identity

0:47:120:47:16

because of the Welsh connection, and they want to learn the language.

0:47:160:47:19

The Welsh identity that Michael D Jones fought to preserve

0:47:200:47:23

has been revived in a way that he couldn't possibly have imagined.

0:47:230:47:27

FOLK MUSIC

0:47:270:47:29

Most of these folk dancers have no Welsh roots at all.

0:47:290:47:33

Virginia Steinkamp is an Argentine of German descent.

0:47:400:47:44

I met her to try and find out why she was so keen

0:47:460:47:49

to embrace all things Welsh.

0:47:490:47:52

TRANSLATION FROM WELSH:

0:47:520:47:55

Like many others, I have fond memories of the chapel tea,

0:48:340:48:39

where people would spend hours sharing stories and gossiping.

0:48:390:48:43

It's a tradition that has dwindled in Wales,

0:48:450:48:47

but it's still going strong here in Patagonia.

0:48:470:48:50

At these regular get-togethers, Spanish is left at the door.

0:48:520:48:55

People relax, eat and talk in Welsh.

0:48:550:48:58

In Gaiman, if you want to experience a bit of Welshness,

0:49:020:49:06

it seems you had better like tea.

0:49:060:49:08

There's a Welsh tea house on every corner,

0:49:080:49:11

each vying to be more Welsh than the next.

0:49:110:49:14

The sign here reads, "The first Welsh tea house in Patagonia."

0:49:140:49:19

And one in particular attracts tourists by the busload.

0:49:210:49:24

Besides the outsized Welsh teapot, its big selling point

0:49:270:49:31

is that Diana, Princess of Wales, stopped here for a cuppa in 1995.

0:49:310:49:35

It seems nothing tops that for Welshness.

0:49:350:49:38

So they preserved and washed the plate she used, the teapot

0:49:400:49:44

her tea was served from and the cup she drank from.

0:49:440:49:47

The dregs are stored in a little bottle.

0:49:480:49:51

-Muy bien.

-Gracias.

0:49:540:49:56

Gracias a usted.

0:49:560:49:58

Very good. A nice cup of tea.

0:50:020:50:04

This, for you, in many ways,

0:50:040:50:07

is the value of Welshness in Patagonia today.

0:50:070:50:10

I'm talking about commercial value

0:50:100:50:13

and there's a strong royal flavour to that commercial activity.

0:50:130:50:17

All of this is held together by this notion of a traditional Welsh tea.

0:50:170:50:22

A kind of chapel tea, if you like,

0:50:220:50:24

though it's much more sumptuous than the chapel teas I remember as a boy.

0:50:240:50:29

And all this is underlined by the fact

0:50:290:50:31

that the family running this place admit very happily

0:50:310:50:34

that they have little or no connection with Wales or Welshness.

0:50:340:50:38

They are just running a very successful business.

0:50:380:50:42

And that's the thing - Welshness does sell.

0:50:470:50:50

And things that make money are very interesting

0:50:500:50:53

to politicians and businesspeople alike.

0:50:530:50:56

The Eisteddfod, revived in 1965 as a bilingual event,

0:51:010:51:05

is now used to sell the area to tourists.

0:51:050:51:08

APPLAUSE

0:51:130:51:16

And the provincial government has helped to pay for renovations

0:51:200:51:23

to the Welsh chapels

0:51:230:51:25

and markets them as historic visitor attractions.

0:51:250:51:28

If I had any doubt about the place of Wales in modern Patagonia,

0:51:330:51:36

well, that doubt vanished when I ran into a parade

0:51:360:51:39

celebrating the foundation of the town of Trevelin.

0:51:390:51:43

It's revealing because it shows you how the province sees itself.

0:51:450:51:50

The indigenous Indians are represented,

0:51:500:51:53

as are the Hispanic peoples, and the Arab immigrants, too.

0:51:530:51:58

But pride of place goes to the Welsh contingent

0:51:580:52:01

for their crucial role as founders of the settlement

0:52:010:52:04

back in the 1880s.

0:52:040:52:06

The man applauding is Martin Buzzi,

0:52:080:52:10

the Argentine Governor of Chubut Province.

0:52:100:52:14

To discuss the Welsh influences that surround him,

0:52:170:52:20

I went to see the Governor in the state capital, Rawson.

0:52:200:52:23

Just inside the door, dominating the foyer,

0:52:230:52:26

was something rather significant -

0:52:260:52:28

a mural depicting the Welsh-Argentine cooperation.

0:52:280:52:32

It became clear that marking the 150th anniversary

0:52:340:52:38

was a political priority.

0:52:380:52:40

TRANSLATION FROM SPANISH:

0:52:400:52:43

The change in the status of Welsh since the 1960s is quite marked.

0:53:220:53:27

In 2006, exactly a century after the first Welsh-language school opened,

0:53:270:53:32

the community proudly opened a new bilingual primary school.

0:53:320:53:36

One of the teachers there is Catrin Morris.

0:53:360:53:38

TRANSLATION FROM WELSH:

0:53:400:53:42

We have come a very long way. We have come a very long way.

0:53:570:54:01

There is a renaissance of interest in the Welsh, the Welsh language,

0:54:010:54:06

the Welsh culture and the Welsh people.

0:54:060:54:09

# Gwyliwch eich hun rhag bod mewn perygl

0:54:090:54:13

# Mae 'na lawer son bod 'na ddyn o Batagonia... #

0:54:130:54:16

It's notable that many of the children here have no Welsh at home

0:54:160:54:20

and no Welsh ancestry.

0:54:200:54:22

More than that, only the Spanish part of their education is free.

0:54:230:54:27

Their parents have to stump up extra for the Welsh half

0:54:270:54:30

and it seems they are perfectly happy to do so.

0:54:300:54:33

# ..Llawn o swn... #

0:54:330:54:36

We offer an education that nobody else here

0:54:360:54:39

in Trelew and Chubut offers at the moment.

0:54:390:54:42

We offer an education that is based on family values

0:54:420:54:46

and, erm, values based on respect.

0:54:460:54:49

And we offer a bilingual education,

0:54:490:54:52

which is proven to give great advantages.

0:54:520:54:55

# Neidr a theigr a dau babwn

0:54:550:54:58

# Byw yn y jyngl yn llawn o swn. #

0:54:580:55:04

MUSIC: Gwahoddiad

0:55:050:55:07

At the cemetery where many of the founding fathers were laid to rest,

0:55:110:55:15

you do wonder what they would make of Patagonia today.

0:55:150:55:18

Would they recoil at the sight of the colony they built

0:55:230:55:26

becoming a tourist commodity in the global marketplace?

0:55:260:55:30

Or would they be heartened that the Welsh identity

0:55:300:55:33

is being constructed and claimed in new ways?

0:55:330:55:37

The founding fathers had set out to build a new Wales,

0:55:420:55:46

marked above all by cultural purity.

0:55:460:55:50

That vision fell short in many ways,

0:55:500:55:53

but it is remarkable that 150 years later, their descendants

0:55:530:55:56

are still fighting for the language and culture

0:55:560:56:00

that they came to protect.

0:56:000:56:02

I remember a funeral in the '60s and the preacher said,

0:56:140:56:19

"I hear another nail in the coffin of the Welsh language."

0:56:190:56:25

We are speaking of the '60s and we still speak Welsh here.

0:56:250:56:29

People from outside come in and see it as something interesting.

0:56:320:56:36

As long as we've got young people in the classes,

0:56:360:56:39

I'm totally convinced that the thing is going to grow and grow.

0:56:390:56:42

TRANSLATION FROM WELSH:

0:56:420:56:45

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