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In 1840, one man transformed travel in the British Isles. | 0:00:05 | 0:00:10 | |
His name was George Bradshaw | 0:00:10 | 0:00:12 | |
and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks. | 0:00:12 | 0:00:16 | |
Stop by stop, he told them where to travel, what to see | 0:00:18 | 0:00:22 | |
and where to stay. | 0:00:22 | 0:00:24 | |
Now, 170 years later, I'm making a series of journeys | 0:00:24 | 0:00:29 | |
across the length and breadth of these isles | 0:00:29 | 0:00:31 | |
to see what of Bradshaw's Britain remains. | 0:00:31 | 0:00:34 | |
I'm continuing my journey through England's industrial heartland towards rural Wales. | 0:00:57 | 0:01:02 | |
Even before the Victorian period, | 0:01:02 | 0:01:04 | |
the Midlands had experienced an intellectual enlightenment | 0:01:04 | 0:01:08 | |
that put it at the core of Britain's Industrial Revolution. | 0:01:08 | 0:01:11 | |
And by the time my guidebook was published, | 0:01:11 | 0:01:14 | |
their ideas had turned Britain into the world's most advanced economy. | 0:01:14 | 0:01:18 | |
On this stretch, I'll learn how the railways helped | 0:01:18 | 0:01:22 | |
to make Birmingham the pen-making capital of the world... | 0:01:22 | 0:01:25 | |
It was a trade that brought writing to the masses, really. | 0:01:25 | 0:01:28 | |
..hear the chilling tale of one of 19th-century Britain's most notorious murderers... | 0:01:28 | 0:01:34 | |
30,000 turned up for his execution. | 0:01:34 | 0:01:36 | |
They had special trains laid on from Bristol, from Manchester | 0:01:36 | 0:01:40 | |
and from London. | 0:01:40 | 0:01:41 | |
..and sample the delicacies concocted in a Victorian kitchen. | 0:01:41 | 0:01:45 | |
-Look at that! Wow! Did you make that? -I certainly did. | 0:01:45 | 0:01:49 | |
That's got a real wobble factor on it, hasn't it? | 0:01:49 | 0:01:52 | |
This journey began in the Chilterns and is now taking me | 0:01:58 | 0:02:01 | |
towards the heart of the industrial Midlands. | 0:02:01 | 0:02:04 | |
I'll then join the picturesque Severn Valley, | 0:02:04 | 0:02:08 | |
before crossing into Wales, en route to my final stop at Aberystwyth. | 0:02:08 | 0:02:12 | |
Today, I'll begin in Birmingham, then explore the Staffordshire towns | 0:02:15 | 0:02:20 | |
of Tamworth and Rugeley, finishing in the county town of Stafford. | 0:02:20 | 0:02:24 | |
I'm on my way to Birmingham, | 0:02:28 | 0:02:29 | |
which Bradshaw's tells me is "the great centre of the manufactured metal trades, | 0:02:29 | 0:02:34 | |
"being situated in North Warwickshire on the borders | 0:02:34 | 0:02:37 | |
"of the South Staffordshire iron and coal district." | 0:02:37 | 0:02:41 | |
During Victorian times, | 0:02:41 | 0:02:42 | |
Birmingham was known as the workshop of the world | 0:02:42 | 0:02:46 | |
and "the city of a thousand trades," a place where the currencies | 0:02:46 | 0:02:49 | |
were skill and invention. | 0:02:49 | 0:02:51 | |
-ANNOUNCEMENT: -We are now approaching Birmingham Moor Street. | 0:02:59 | 0:03:03 | |
To trace the vestiges of that hive of industry, | 0:03:04 | 0:03:07 | |
I'm alighting at Birmingham Moor Street, the spectacular gateway | 0:03:07 | 0:03:11 | |
from the Chiltern railway to Britain's second-largest conurbation. | 0:03:11 | 0:03:15 | |
Thank you. 'It's an uplifting way to enter this dynamic city.' | 0:03:22 | 0:03:27 | |
Birmingham Moor Street station, what a joy. | 0:03:27 | 0:03:31 | |
First opened in 1909, in Edwardian Britain. | 0:03:31 | 0:03:34 | |
Rebuilt in the 21st century, in 1930s style. | 0:03:34 | 0:03:38 | |
It has the feel of a film set for a period costume drama. | 0:03:38 | 0:03:42 | |
And I love it. | 0:03:42 | 0:03:44 | |
From the start of Britain's Industrial Revolution, | 0:03:48 | 0:03:51 | |
Birmingham led the way, | 0:03:51 | 0:03:53 | |
enthusiastically adopting the new technologies that would change the world. | 0:03:53 | 0:03:57 | |
According to my guidebook, | 0:03:59 | 0:04:00 | |
"scarcely a street is without its manufactory and steam engine. | 0:04:00 | 0:04:04 | |
"At the same time, a considerable amount of the labour | 0:04:04 | 0:04:07 | |
"is of a manual kind." | 0:04:07 | 0:04:09 | |
By the middle of the 19th century, | 0:04:11 | 0:04:13 | |
Birmingham had a population of 500,000. | 0:04:13 | 0:04:16 | |
And in the previous 100 years, its inhabitants had applied | 0:04:16 | 0:04:20 | |
for three times as many patents as those of any other city. | 0:04:20 | 0:04:24 | |
My Bradshaw's recommends that amongst the principal establishments | 0:04:24 | 0:04:27 | |
worth visiting in Birmingham | 0:04:27 | 0:04:29 | |
I should go to one for the manufacture of steel pens, | 0:04:29 | 0:04:32 | |
here in the jewellery district. | 0:04:32 | 0:04:34 | |
In Bradshaw's day, Birmingham was a global centre | 0:04:37 | 0:04:40 | |
for the making of pen nibs and my guidebook singles out one producer, | 0:04:40 | 0:04:43 | |
saying, "We should think that the reputation of Messrs Gillott and Son of Graham Street | 0:04:43 | 0:04:48 | |
"has reached all parts of the world." | 0:04:48 | 0:04:50 | |
Whilst the Graham Street factory is no longer in operation, | 0:04:52 | 0:04:55 | |
just opposite the site is a pen museum, | 0:04:55 | 0:04:58 | |
where I am meeting expert Larry Hanks. | 0:04:58 | 0:05:01 | |
-Larry. -Good morning. | 0:05:01 | 0:05:03 | |
Good to see you. | 0:05:03 | 0:05:04 | |
I've got an advertisement in my Bradshaw's guide for Joseph Gillott. | 0:05:04 | 0:05:08 | |
It's a fantastic advertisement. | 0:05:08 | 0:05:10 | |
"Joseph Gillott, metallic pen maker to the Queen, | 0:05:10 | 0:05:13 | |
"begs to inform the commercial world of his useful productions | 0:05:13 | 0:05:18 | |
"which for excellence of temper, quality of material | 0:05:18 | 0:05:21 | |
"and cheapness ensure universal approbation." | 0:05:21 | 0:05:25 | |
-Very good. -Joseph Gillott was just across the street, wasn't he? | 0:05:25 | 0:05:28 | |
His factory was built in 1839. He was a great entrepreneur. | 0:05:28 | 0:05:32 | |
He made sure that anybody of any note who visited Birmingham | 0:05:32 | 0:05:36 | |
in the tour went around his works. | 0:05:36 | 0:05:39 | |
In Victorian times, factories like Gillott's were helping to transform society. | 0:05:40 | 0:05:45 | |
The first steel nib was invented in Birmingham | 0:05:45 | 0:05:49 | |
for a local doctor in 1780, but in those days, | 0:05:49 | 0:05:51 | |
pens were a handcrafted luxury, so even the few who were literate | 0:05:51 | 0:05:56 | |
couldn't afford to write. | 0:05:56 | 0:05:58 | |
Then, in the 1820s, the process was mechanised, | 0:05:59 | 0:06:02 | |
with far-reaching consequences. | 0:06:02 | 0:06:04 | |
When the steel pen nib was put into mass production, | 0:06:04 | 0:06:08 | |
did it remain an expensive item? | 0:06:08 | 0:06:10 | |
No, the price came down dramatically. | 0:06:10 | 0:06:13 | |
I mean to say, you could be paying 2 or 3 shillings each for a steel pen | 0:06:13 | 0:06:17 | |
when they first came out. | 0:06:17 | 0:06:18 | |
2 or 3 shillings, that would've been a lot of money. | 0:06:18 | 0:06:20 | |
It would have been in those days, yes. | 0:06:20 | 0:06:22 | |
So it really made quite a difference to public literacy, | 0:06:22 | 0:06:26 | |
-the availability of cheap pens. -Oh, yes, it did. | 0:06:26 | 0:06:29 | |
It was a trade that brought writing to the masses, really. | 0:06:29 | 0:06:32 | |
Suddenly schools could afford to buy pens in bulk | 0:06:32 | 0:06:37 | |
and the means of writing were put within everybody's reach. | 0:06:37 | 0:06:40 | |
The advent of the railways gave the industry a further boost. | 0:06:40 | 0:06:43 | |
Trains carried steel from Sheffield and by the mid-19th century, | 0:06:43 | 0:06:47 | |
Birmingham's pens were conveyed by rail for export around the globe. | 0:06:47 | 0:06:51 | |
What scale did pen-nib manufacture reach in Birmingham? | 0:06:51 | 0:06:55 | |
We say that three-quarters of the people writing in the world | 0:06:55 | 0:06:59 | |
with a steel pen were writing with one made in Birmingham. | 0:06:59 | 0:07:03 | |
Nobody came anywhere near us, really. | 0:07:03 | 0:07:05 | |
Most of the workers were women, | 0:07:05 | 0:07:07 | |
expected to produce tens of thousands of nibs everyday. | 0:07:07 | 0:07:11 | |
-Why women? -Cheap labour, unfortunately. | 0:07:11 | 0:07:15 | |
Of course, women have got nimble fingers. | 0:07:15 | 0:07:18 | |
The other thing was that in the early days you could be fined for talking | 0:07:18 | 0:07:22 | |
or even singing, but the bosses then didn't realise women can multitask. | 0:07:22 | 0:07:26 | |
They can talk AND work, | 0:07:26 | 0:07:28 | |
where, unfortunately, men can only talk OR work. | 0:07:28 | 0:07:31 | |
So once the bosses realised this, the workplace became a lot happier | 0:07:31 | 0:07:34 | |
and the production went on. | 0:07:34 | 0:07:36 | |
The machinery worked by the women was simple but effective. | 0:07:38 | 0:07:42 | |
Each hand press completed one stage of the process, | 0:07:42 | 0:07:45 | |
the first being to cut the outline of the nib. | 0:07:45 | 0:07:48 | |
The first operation was blanking, which was done on a strip. | 0:07:48 | 0:07:52 | |
The women were expected to do 36,000 in a day on this. | 0:07:52 | 0:07:55 | |
That's in position, so if you'd like to pull that, a sharp snatch towards you. | 0:07:55 | 0:08:00 | |
That's it. Push it back. | 0:08:00 | 0:08:02 | |
-I've just pressed out the shape of a pen nib, have I? -Yeah. | 0:08:02 | 0:08:05 | |
I wouldn't want to do 36,000 of those in a day. | 0:08:05 | 0:08:07 | |
There were machines for shaping, piercing and slitting the nibs. | 0:08:09 | 0:08:14 | |
But discerning Victorian customers demanded more than just functionality from their pens. | 0:08:14 | 0:08:19 | |
Right, on this last process here, this started from about the 1850s | 0:08:19 | 0:08:24 | |
where they started to do more decorative pen nibs. | 0:08:24 | 0:08:27 | |
And to decorate them, they embossed them. | 0:08:27 | 0:08:30 | |
For VIPs and big companies, | 0:08:30 | 0:08:32 | |
personalised nibs became a way of showing off | 0:08:32 | 0:08:35 | |
and in Bradshaw's day, no business was bigger than the railways. | 0:08:35 | 0:08:39 | |
All companies and people had their names | 0:08:39 | 0:08:42 | |
and things embossed on pen nibs. | 0:08:42 | 0:08:44 | |
They were supplying the railway companies - GWR, NER, LMS. | 0:08:44 | 0:08:48 | |
It even went on into the British Rail era as well. | 0:08:48 | 0:08:51 | |
Sadly, Birmingham's Victorian domination of the global pen trade wasn't to last. | 0:08:53 | 0:08:57 | |
In the 20th century, the invention of the ballpoint pen | 0:08:58 | 0:09:02 | |
dealt the industry a devastating blow. | 0:09:02 | 0:09:04 | |
'But one local firm continues the tradition.' Hello, Tim. | 0:09:05 | 0:09:09 | |
-Hi, nice to meet you. -Very good to see you. | 0:09:09 | 0:09:12 | |
'Tim Tufnell's company makes traditional pens | 0:09:12 | 0:09:14 | |
'for the luxury market.' | 0:09:14 | 0:09:16 | |
And you're doing, I think, very intricate, high-end work. | 0:09:16 | 0:09:20 | |
-Using modern machinery? -Not at all, no. | 0:09:20 | 0:09:23 | |
A lot of the tooling we're using is this sort of thing, | 0:09:23 | 0:09:28 | |
which goes back to Victorian times, | 0:09:28 | 0:09:30 | |
exactly how they would have produced this product in the 1800s. | 0:09:30 | 0:09:34 | |
-Is this what you start with? -Yes, this is a piece of silver tubing, | 0:09:34 | 0:09:39 | |
so that's what we buy in from the manufacturer, | 0:09:39 | 0:09:43 | |
and then, believe it or not, it ends up looking like that. | 0:09:43 | 0:09:48 | |
That is exquisite. | 0:09:48 | 0:09:51 | |
'A far cry from the usual mass production of today, | 0:09:51 | 0:09:54 | |
'these solid silver pens are reminiscent of Birmingham's past. | 0:09:54 | 0:09:57 | |
'The techniques used would have been familiar | 0:09:57 | 0:10:00 | |
'to the Jewellery Quarter's artisans in the 19th century.' | 0:10:00 | 0:10:03 | |
How many hammer blows do you think you deliver to a single piece to build up the pattern? | 0:10:03 | 0:10:08 | |
-About 2,000. -About 2,000?! -Yes. | 0:10:08 | 0:10:10 | |
We're so used to admiring Victorian craftsmanship | 0:10:11 | 0:10:15 | |
but it's wonderful to know that it's alive and thriving here today. | 0:10:15 | 0:10:19 | |
I'm now leaving industrial Birmingham behind | 0:10:24 | 0:10:27 | |
to continue my progress through the Midlands. | 0:10:27 | 0:10:30 | |
In the past, I've been very rude | 0:10:31 | 0:10:33 | |
about Birmingham's New Street station, which is truly hideous. | 0:10:33 | 0:10:37 | |
But now they are completely rebuilding it | 0:10:37 | 0:10:39 | |
and in the meanwhile, they are keeping all the trains running, | 0:10:39 | 0:10:42 | |
which is an engineering achievement on a Victorian scale. | 0:10:42 | 0:10:46 | |
From this busy railway hub, | 0:10:51 | 0:10:52 | |
my next train takes me just 17 miles north-east, | 0:10:52 | 0:10:55 | |
crossing from Warwickshire into Staffordshire. | 0:10:55 | 0:10:58 | |
I'm on my way to Tamworth, which my Bradshaw's tells me | 0:11:03 | 0:11:07 | |
is "a market town with a population of 8,650 who return two members." | 0:11:07 | 0:11:12 | |
That means they elected two MPs to Westminster | 0:11:12 | 0:11:15 | |
and in Tamworth, unusually for me, I'm in search of a politician. | 0:11:15 | 0:11:20 | |
In the mid-1800s, Tamworth's Member of Parliament | 0:11:25 | 0:11:28 | |
was the great 19th-century statesman, Sir Robert Peel. | 0:11:28 | 0:11:31 | |
Today, he's seen as one of the founding fathers of the Conservative Party, | 0:11:31 | 0:11:35 | |
so I can't resist following my guidebook to the marketplace | 0:11:35 | 0:11:39 | |
to meet vice-chairman of The Peel Society, Nigel Morris. | 0:11:39 | 0:11:43 | |
-Hello, Nigel. -Hello, Michael. Welcome to Tamworth. | 0:11:46 | 0:11:49 | |
-Sir Robert Peel, I presume? -Yes, that's correct. | 0:11:49 | 0:11:52 | |
My Bradshaw's says he's looking towards Bury, | 0:11:52 | 0:11:54 | |
-the place of his birth. -That's correct. | 0:11:54 | 0:11:56 | |
He was born there in 1788. | 0:11:56 | 0:11:59 | |
Peel entered Parliament in 1809 aged just 21. | 0:12:00 | 0:12:05 | |
By the 1820s, he'd risen to the rank of Home Secretary, | 0:12:05 | 0:12:09 | |
where he made a rather famous decision. | 0:12:09 | 0:12:12 | |
Now Londoners have good reason to remember Sir Robert Peel too, don't they? | 0:12:12 | 0:12:16 | |
Absolutely, because he passed through Parliament | 0:12:16 | 0:12:20 | |
the Metropolitan Police Act in 1829, | 0:12:20 | 0:12:23 | |
founding the police force as we know it today. | 0:12:23 | 0:12:27 | |
Originally, they were known as Peelers and they wore top hats | 0:12:27 | 0:12:30 | |
and bright white trousers, | 0:12:30 | 0:12:32 | |
but after that, it became, after his first name, Robert, bobbies. | 0:12:32 | 0:12:37 | |
Peel was to go on to be Prime Minister twice, | 0:12:38 | 0:12:41 | |
where his achievements included Acts of Parliament | 0:12:41 | 0:12:44 | |
curbing child labour in mines and factories. | 0:12:44 | 0:12:47 | |
He was also a keen supporter of the railways, | 0:12:47 | 0:12:49 | |
cutting the first sod for the Trent Valley line in 1845. | 0:12:49 | 0:12:54 | |
But for me, it's another local event | 0:12:54 | 0:12:56 | |
that is Peel's most important claim to fame. | 0:12:56 | 0:12:59 | |
And it took place here in the town hall. | 0:12:59 | 0:13:02 | |
This is a delightful and impressive council chamber. | 0:13:02 | 0:13:05 | |
And here's his portrait. | 0:13:05 | 0:13:07 | |
A copy of the one by Sir Thomas Lawrence, | 0:13:07 | 0:13:10 | |
and it shows him as a relatively young man still, about the age of 30. | 0:13:10 | 0:13:15 | |
And you can see his ginger hair. | 0:13:15 | 0:13:17 | |
Peel's first stint as Prime Minister came at a tumultuous time | 0:13:20 | 0:13:23 | |
in British history. | 0:13:23 | 0:13:25 | |
His political opponents, the Whigs, had recently instituted | 0:13:25 | 0:13:29 | |
constitutional reform, bitterly contested by the Tories. | 0:13:29 | 0:13:33 | |
When Peel came to power, he was determined to start afresh. | 0:13:33 | 0:13:37 | |
He set out his political vision in a document read out | 0:13:37 | 0:13:40 | |
to the people of Tamworth from the window of this town hall. | 0:13:40 | 0:13:44 | |
And what was in it, what was significant about it? | 0:13:46 | 0:13:48 | |
The main point about it was that he accepted the Reform Act of 1832. | 0:13:48 | 0:13:53 | |
Which had extended the franchise to many more voters? | 0:13:53 | 0:13:55 | |
Exactly, yes, including the great industrial cities | 0:13:55 | 0:13:58 | |
of Manchester and Birmingham. | 0:13:58 | 0:14:00 | |
'The Tamworth Manifesto, as it's become known, | 0:14:00 | 0:14:03 | |
'is seen as the first example of the kind of party manifesto | 0:14:03 | 0:14:07 | |
'that we know today. And it also set an important precedent.' | 0:14:07 | 0:14:11 | |
Actually, we've seen that in politics again and again, | 0:14:11 | 0:14:14 | |
that the party that's in opposition | 0:14:14 | 0:14:16 | |
has opposed something that the government does, | 0:14:16 | 0:14:19 | |
but then it finds that it becomes the norm, | 0:14:19 | 0:14:21 | |
that it becomes something irreversible, | 0:14:21 | 0:14:23 | |
and the party has to accept it if it's to have any chance of being re-elected. | 0:14:23 | 0:14:27 | |
Exactly, we see it time and time again | 0:14:27 | 0:14:29 | |
and it's very interesting that it started, really, in this room. | 0:14:29 | 0:14:33 | |
-Shall we go to the window and look down on the great man? -Exactly, yes. | 0:14:33 | 0:14:38 | |
I'm now joining the Victorian-built Trent Valley line | 0:14:44 | 0:14:47 | |
to continue my journey north. | 0:14:47 | 0:14:49 | |
On this stretch, I'm following in the footsteps of 19th-century thrill seekers. | 0:14:50 | 0:14:55 | |
I'm on my way to Rugeley, which my Bradshaw's tells me | 0:14:57 | 0:15:00 | |
"will ever be memorable on account of its having been the residence | 0:15:00 | 0:15:04 | |
"of the sporting Dr Palmer, who was accused of poisoning | 0:15:04 | 0:15:08 | |
"his wife, his brother and friend, John Parsons Cook, by strychnine. | 0:15:08 | 0:15:13 | |
"But at the post-mortem examinations, | 0:15:13 | 0:15:15 | |
"not a particle of that poison was discovered." | 0:15:15 | 0:15:19 | |
Very intriguing. And the Victorians had a taste for the macabre | 0:15:19 | 0:15:23 | |
and the Victorian press was ever willing to feed their ghoulishness. | 0:15:23 | 0:15:28 | |
'In the 19th century, urbanisation saw people living side-by-side | 0:15:32 | 0:15:36 | |
'with strangers as never before. | 0:15:36 | 0:15:38 | |
'And this, combined with increasingly professional policing, | 0:15:38 | 0:15:41 | |
'fuelled a public obsession with crime. | 0:15:41 | 0:15:44 | |
'Cheap penny dreadfuls enabled the masses to read the lurid details | 0:15:44 | 0:15:48 | |
'of infamous murders. | 0:15:48 | 0:15:50 | |
'And railway companies even ran special trains to crime scenes. | 0:15:50 | 0:15:55 | |
'Dave Lewis has been researching the still-puzzling case | 0:15:55 | 0:15:58 | |
-'of Dr William Palmer.' David. -Good morning, Michael. | 0:15:58 | 0:16:02 | |
Welcome to Rugeley. | 0:16:02 | 0:16:04 | |
Thank you very much indeed. Who was this Dr William Palmer? | 0:16:04 | 0:16:10 | |
Well, he was the most infamous person ever, I think, to live in Rugeley. | 0:16:10 | 0:16:15 | |
People were shocked because he was a respectable doctor. | 0:16:15 | 0:16:18 | |
He was early 30s when he came to trial. | 0:16:18 | 0:16:21 | |
And they were just shocked that somebody who had taken | 0:16:21 | 0:16:24 | |
the Hippocratic Oath could be accused of so many murders. | 0:16:24 | 0:16:27 | |
My Bradshaw's tells me that he poisoned his wife and his brother. | 0:16:27 | 0:16:31 | |
-Was he accused of that? -He was accused of that | 0:16:31 | 0:16:34 | |
but he was never ever brought to trial for the murder of his wife | 0:16:34 | 0:16:38 | |
and his brother. He was only ever accused and tried of one murder, | 0:16:38 | 0:16:41 | |
that is the murder of John Parsons Cook. | 0:16:41 | 0:16:43 | |
-Shall I show you the grave? -Let's go and have a look. | 0:16:43 | 0:16:45 | |
Cook was a friend of Dr Palmer | 0:16:47 | 0:16:49 | |
and the events leading to his death began in 1855. | 0:16:49 | 0:16:54 | |
By that time, the sporting doctor had all but given up medicine | 0:16:54 | 0:16:57 | |
to indulge his passion for horseracing | 0:16:57 | 0:16:59 | |
and had accumulated substantial gambling debts. | 0:16:59 | 0:17:03 | |
Well, they'd gone to the races at Shrewsbury | 0:17:04 | 0:17:08 | |
and John Parsons Cook's horse, Polestar, had won, | 0:17:08 | 0:17:10 | |
and he won a tidy sum. | 0:17:10 | 0:17:12 | |
Whereas poor old Palmer, his horse, Chicken, had fallen | 0:17:12 | 0:17:16 | |
and he's lost quite a lot of money | 0:17:16 | 0:17:17 | |
and was more heavily in debt than ever. | 0:17:17 | 0:17:20 | |
Palmer invited his friend to Rugeley, | 0:17:20 | 0:17:23 | |
installed him in the local pub and visited him frequently. | 0:17:23 | 0:17:27 | |
Cook became increasingly unwell and on the seventh night, | 0:17:27 | 0:17:31 | |
shortly after Dr Palmer had administered two pills, | 0:17:31 | 0:17:35 | |
his patient took a dramatic turn for the worse. | 0:17:35 | 0:17:38 | |
Here we have on the left the famous room number 10 | 0:17:39 | 0:17:42 | |
where John Parsons Cook died. | 0:17:42 | 0:17:45 | |
-Was it a painful death? -It was a horrendously painful death. | 0:17:45 | 0:17:49 | |
At one stage, he was described as resting on his heels | 0:17:49 | 0:17:53 | |
and the back of his head, he was in so much agony. | 0:17:53 | 0:17:56 | |
'At first, Cook's death was ascribed to natural causes, | 0:17:56 | 0:17:59 | |
'but when Palmer claimed to have lost his friend's betting book, | 0:17:59 | 0:18:03 | |
'suspicions were aroused. The accusation was | 0:18:03 | 0:18:06 | |
'that Palmer had dosed Cook with the rat poison, strychnine.' | 0:18:06 | 0:18:10 | |
But my Bradshaw's says that in the post-mortem examination | 0:18:10 | 0:18:14 | |
no trace of strychnine was found. | 0:18:14 | 0:18:17 | |
That was because of the incompetency of the people carrying out | 0:18:17 | 0:18:20 | |
the post-mortem. | 0:18:20 | 0:18:22 | |
The guy, the doctor in charge arrived from Stafford. | 0:18:22 | 0:18:26 | |
He had no medical equipment. He didn't even bring a pencil and paper. | 0:18:26 | 0:18:30 | |
The people who cut open the body, one was a medical student | 0:18:30 | 0:18:34 | |
and one was an assistant at a local chemist's. | 0:18:34 | 0:18:37 | |
Despite the botched post-mortem, Palmer was charged | 0:18:37 | 0:18:41 | |
and the case immediately captured the public imagination. | 0:18:41 | 0:18:46 | |
It was probably THE trial of the century. | 0:18:46 | 0:18:49 | |
Three months before the trial, | 0:18:49 | 0:18:51 | |
the London Illustrated Times produced a 15-page supplement, | 0:18:51 | 0:18:55 | |
which talked about the Rugeley tragedies | 0:18:55 | 0:18:59 | |
and all the suspicious deaths that occurred | 0:18:59 | 0:19:02 | |
that were linked to Dr William Palmer. | 0:19:02 | 0:19:05 | |
Amongst the most shocking claims was the accusation that Palmer | 0:19:05 | 0:19:09 | |
had killed his own wife and brother, | 0:19:09 | 0:19:11 | |
both of whose lives he'd insured for large sums. | 0:19:11 | 0:19:15 | |
He was never tried for those crimes, | 0:19:15 | 0:19:17 | |
but the Cook case was heard at the Old Bailey in London. | 0:19:17 | 0:19:21 | |
And, despite confused and contradictory evidence, | 0:19:21 | 0:19:24 | |
the doctor was convicted and sentenced to death. | 0:19:24 | 0:19:26 | |
The execution was back in Stafford in accordance with the sentence, | 0:19:27 | 0:19:31 | |
and at a time when Stafford had a population of 12,500, | 0:19:31 | 0:19:35 | |
30,000 turned up for his execution. | 0:19:35 | 0:19:39 | |
They had special trains laid on from Bristol, from Manchester | 0:19:39 | 0:19:41 | |
and from London. | 0:19:41 | 0:19:43 | |
And evidently his fame survived a long time after his death. | 0:19:43 | 0:19:46 | |
It did indeed. Being in Staffordshire, | 0:19:46 | 0:19:49 | |
they produced pottery figurines. | 0:19:49 | 0:19:50 | |
They have a figurine of William Palmer himself. | 0:19:50 | 0:19:55 | |
Good Lord! | 0:19:55 | 0:19:56 | |
And this is a photograph of his effigy | 0:19:56 | 0:20:00 | |
that stood in Madame Tussaud's, London, | 0:20:00 | 0:20:03 | |
in the Chamber of Horrors, for 127 years. | 0:20:03 | 0:20:06 | |
Labelled as a mass murderer. | 0:20:06 | 0:20:10 | |
Even though he was only ever tried for one murder. | 0:20:10 | 0:20:12 | |
Chilled to the marrow by grisly tales, | 0:20:17 | 0:20:20 | |
it's time to seek the sunshine. | 0:20:20 | 0:20:22 | |
I'm hunting out the picturesque charms of the Staffordshire countryside. | 0:20:22 | 0:20:26 | |
I'm on my way to Stafford and my guidebook tells me | 0:20:29 | 0:20:32 | |
that the line passes through "a country of single beauty, | 0:20:32 | 0:20:35 | |
"having almost the appearance of one continued park." | 0:20:35 | 0:20:40 | |
These were the estates of the great landed gentry, | 0:20:40 | 0:20:43 | |
of Harrowbys, Shrewsburys and Dartmouths | 0:20:43 | 0:20:47 | |
and of the Lichfields at their estate of Shugborough. | 0:20:47 | 0:20:50 | |
Most readers of my guidebook satisfied themselves | 0:20:51 | 0:20:54 | |
with a glimpse of Shugborough Park from the train. | 0:20:54 | 0:20:57 | |
But the upper crust of 19th-century society would arrive to stay. | 0:20:58 | 0:21:01 | |
In 1832, one visitor was a young princess, | 0:21:03 | 0:21:07 | |
destined to become one of our greatest monarchs. | 0:21:07 | 0:21:10 | |
I'm now following in her footsteps. | 0:21:10 | 0:21:12 | |
As I walk across the estate, across the park towards Shugborough, | 0:21:16 | 0:21:21 | |
the house appears in all its magnificence. | 0:21:21 | 0:21:24 | |
And this, I think, is my guide. | 0:21:24 | 0:21:26 | |
-Hello, Chris. -Hello, Michael. Welcome to Shugborough. | 0:21:26 | 0:21:29 | |
'Chris Kopp is a local historian.' | 0:21:29 | 0:21:32 | |
When Princess Victoria came here, | 0:21:32 | 0:21:33 | |
would she have seen the house much as it is today? | 0:21:33 | 0:21:36 | |
Yes, it's very little changed from October 1832. | 0:21:36 | 0:21:40 | |
What had drawn her to the house? | 0:21:40 | 0:21:42 | |
Well, she was 13 years old | 0:21:42 | 0:21:44 | |
and she came with the Duchess of Kent on her first tour, really, | 0:21:44 | 0:21:47 | |
around the country, the grand stately homes of England. | 0:21:47 | 0:21:52 | |
The future Queen arrived at Shugborough by horse and carriage | 0:21:52 | 0:21:55 | |
but just 13 years later, | 0:21:55 | 0:21:56 | |
plans were drawn up to build the Trent Valley Railway through | 0:21:56 | 0:21:59 | |
the heart of the estate. The Earl of Lichfield was horrified | 0:21:59 | 0:22:03 | |
until he realised that there could be a silver lining. | 0:22:03 | 0:22:07 | |
He'd come into financial difficulties in the 1840s. | 0:22:08 | 0:22:13 | |
He basically negotiated with the railway company | 0:22:13 | 0:22:16 | |
£30,000 in compensation, and that included £2,000 for the land | 0:22:16 | 0:22:21 | |
the railway took up, and the rest of the money was to make good | 0:22:21 | 0:22:25 | |
the look of the estate | 0:22:25 | 0:22:26 | |
to avoid damaging the appearance of Shugborough. | 0:22:26 | 0:22:30 | |
My Bradshaw's tells me that the railway passes through a tunnel | 0:22:30 | 0:22:32 | |
in Shugborough Park, 779 yards in length. | 0:22:32 | 0:22:36 | |
"The north face of the tunnel | 0:22:36 | 0:22:37 | |
is a very striking architectural composition." | 0:22:37 | 0:22:40 | |
Part of their attempts to make it a more ornamental look, | 0:22:40 | 0:22:43 | |
to fit in with the other monuments, | 0:22:43 | 0:22:46 | |
the north portal looks like a Norman castle. | 0:22:46 | 0:22:48 | |
It's got turrets and this glorious Norman arch. | 0:22:48 | 0:22:51 | |
And then this side is slightly less impressive but still ornamental. | 0:22:51 | 0:22:55 | |
And it's meant to look like an Egyptian temple, | 0:22:55 | 0:22:57 | |
but it takes a bit of a leap of imagination, really. | 0:22:57 | 0:23:00 | |
'In its Victorian heyday, | 0:23:04 | 0:23:06 | |
'Shugborough employed 120 indoor and outdoor staff, including gardeners, | 0:23:06 | 0:23:10 | |
'gamekeepers and farm labourers. | 0:23:10 | 0:23:13 | |
'It's still run as a working estate and a look at the kitchen garden | 0:23:13 | 0:23:17 | |
'brings home the scale of the operation.' | 0:23:17 | 0:23:19 | |
A vast walled garden. | 0:23:19 | 0:23:22 | |
Yes, and this is only one of six compartments here. | 0:23:22 | 0:23:27 | |
Some of them are walled, four walled compartments, | 0:23:27 | 0:23:30 | |
and then the other two are hedged. But, yes, it is a large garden. | 0:23:30 | 0:23:34 | |
Were walled gardens quite an innovation? | 0:23:34 | 0:23:37 | |
They were very fashionable in 1805 when this was built. | 0:23:37 | 0:23:41 | |
Estates at the time were trying to be much more self-sufficient, | 0:23:41 | 0:23:44 | |
grow all their own produce. | 0:23:44 | 0:23:46 | |
So as well as the garden here for fruit, vegetables, flowers etc, | 0:23:46 | 0:23:51 | |
honey, you had the park farm built at the same time for meat, | 0:23:51 | 0:23:55 | |
dairy products, cereals and so on. | 0:23:55 | 0:23:57 | |
For illustrious visitors like the young Princess Victoria, | 0:24:00 | 0:24:03 | |
the estate would pull out all the stops, | 0:24:03 | 0:24:06 | |
offering the very best produce in lavish banquets. | 0:24:06 | 0:24:09 | |
'Above stairs, amid the splendour of this grand stately home, | 0:24:11 | 0:24:15 | |
'it would all seem effortless, but all that luxury came at a price.' | 0:24:15 | 0:24:19 | |
-Thank you. Bye-bye. -Bye-bye. | 0:24:19 | 0:24:21 | |
'To get a sense of the graft involved, | 0:24:21 | 0:24:23 | |
'I'm visiting the kitchens, | 0:24:23 | 0:24:25 | |
'overseen today by resident cook Penny Locke.' | 0:24:25 | 0:24:28 | |
Oh, this is the kitchen on the grand scale, isn't it? | 0:24:30 | 0:24:33 | |
What equipment have you got here from Victorian times? | 0:24:33 | 0:24:37 | |
We have all sorts of things. | 0:24:37 | 0:24:38 | |
-We have a bottle jack there for spit-roasting meat on. -Oh! | 0:24:38 | 0:24:41 | |
And it's actually clockwork, so we wind it up | 0:24:41 | 0:24:44 | |
and it spit-roasts the meat for us. We have the lemon squeezer. | 0:24:44 | 0:24:47 | |
-That is brilliant, isn't it? -Works very well. | 0:24:49 | 0:24:52 | |
You put half a lemon in there and the idea is it turns it inside-out, | 0:24:52 | 0:24:55 | |
-as you squeeze it, so there's no wastage. -Isn't that beautiful? | 0:24:55 | 0:24:59 | |
-What a fine invention. -And even the squashed-out lemon | 0:24:59 | 0:25:01 | |
is then given to the youngest girl | 0:25:01 | 0:25:03 | |
to dip in salt and clean all the copper with. | 0:25:03 | 0:25:06 | |
'The kitchens were a model of efficiency, | 0:25:06 | 0:25:09 | |
'but 19th-century entertaining was extravagant. | 0:25:09 | 0:25:12 | |
'During Princess Victoria's three-day stay, | 0:25:12 | 0:25:15 | |
'the guests got through 76 pheasants and 67 bottles of sherry. | 0:25:15 | 0:25:20 | |
'But some Victorian delicacies have since disappeared into obscurity.' | 0:25:20 | 0:25:24 | |
They would make cucumber soup. That's cucumber soup there, | 0:25:24 | 0:25:28 | |
which actually tastes an awful lot better than it looks. | 0:25:28 | 0:25:31 | |
-And also stewed cucumbers. -Look at that. What have they been stewed in? | 0:25:31 | 0:25:35 | |
-What do they taste of? -Stewed in salted water to start with | 0:25:35 | 0:25:39 | |
and then you make a stock up | 0:25:39 | 0:25:41 | |
and put them into the stock and thicken the sauce from the stock. | 0:25:41 | 0:25:44 | |
It's believed very bad to eat raw cucumber, | 0:25:44 | 0:25:46 | |
it's very bad for your digestion. | 0:25:46 | 0:25:48 | |
And this I don't need to have identified. | 0:25:48 | 0:25:51 | |
Look at that. Wow. | 0:25:51 | 0:25:53 | |
-Did you make that? -I certainly did. | 0:25:53 | 0:25:56 | |
That's got a real wobble factor on it, hasn't it? | 0:25:56 | 0:25:58 | |
What's different from a Victorian jelly and a present-day jelly? | 0:25:58 | 0:26:01 | |
It takes a long time to make a Victorian jelly. | 0:26:01 | 0:26:03 | |
You're talking a good hour or so. | 0:26:03 | 0:26:05 | |
Obviously, you have fresh gelatine from the farm come up | 0:26:05 | 0:26:08 | |
and all the ingredients are stewed and the gelatine's added. | 0:26:08 | 0:26:11 | |
It's quite a skill. | 0:26:11 | 0:26:12 | |
'With so many mouths to feed, | 0:26:12 | 0:26:14 | |
'there was no space for idlers in a Victorian kitchen. | 0:26:14 | 0:26:18 | |
'Time for me to get stuck in.' What's the recipe, Penny? | 0:26:18 | 0:26:21 | |
-Fresh trout from the river out the back. -Mmm! | 0:26:21 | 0:26:25 | |
You've got a couple of beauties. | 0:26:25 | 0:26:26 | |
And can we have two glasses of beer in there, please? | 0:26:26 | 0:26:29 | |
Beer was a big Victorian thing, wasn't it? | 0:26:29 | 0:26:31 | |
This beer is made at the brewhouse on the estate here, | 0:26:31 | 0:26:34 | |
where staff were allocated eight pints of beer a day each. | 0:26:34 | 0:26:37 | |
Eight pints?! They must have been paralytic! | 0:26:37 | 0:26:40 | |
The brew is made to make the strong ale and the same mash | 0:26:40 | 0:26:44 | |
is brewed six or seven more times and that's what the staff will be given. | 0:26:44 | 0:26:47 | |
It's purely because it's safe to drink. | 0:26:47 | 0:26:49 | |
'A little wine, a little lemon.' | 0:26:49 | 0:26:51 | |
-Would you like a little thumb in there as well? -Preferably not, ha! | 0:26:51 | 0:26:55 | |
'And my trout is ready for the coal-fired range.' | 0:26:55 | 0:26:58 | |
It'll go across the middle section there. | 0:26:58 | 0:27:00 | |
-And once it starts steaming, it'll take about 20 minutes. -Marvellous. | 0:27:01 | 0:27:06 | |
-A delicacy fit for Princess Victoria. -Definitely. | 0:27:06 | 0:27:09 | |
'Now for a taste of the kind of dish that George Bradshaw would have enjoyed.' | 0:27:09 | 0:27:14 | |
Cook, this looks very fine. | 0:27:14 | 0:27:16 | |
Excellent. | 0:27:20 | 0:27:21 | |
From the kitchen maid to the Earl, | 0:27:23 | 0:27:25 | |
every member of this grand household had a specific role to play. | 0:27:25 | 0:27:29 | |
Victorian Britain organised and stratified. | 0:27:29 | 0:27:33 | |
As ever, I've been impressed by Birmingham. | 0:27:35 | 0:27:38 | |
Once the metal-bashing centre of the world, | 0:27:38 | 0:27:41 | |
powered by the impersonal forces of capitalism and steam. | 0:27:41 | 0:27:45 | |
But this leg of my journey has been rich in Midlands personalities too. | 0:27:45 | 0:27:50 | |
Prime Minister Peel, the landed Lichfields | 0:27:50 | 0:27:53 | |
and the poisoner Palmer. | 0:27:53 | 0:27:55 | |
I encountered them all in the pages of my Bradshaw's guide. | 0:27:55 | 0:27:59 | |
'Next time, I'll explore one of the greatest locomotive factories in railway history...' | 0:28:02 | 0:28:08 | |
The records are sketchy but they talk about 20,000 people, | 0:28:08 | 0:28:11 | |
so the size of it was immense. | 0:28:11 | 0:28:12 | |
'..discover the dark side of the Industrial Revolution...' | 0:28:12 | 0:28:16 | |
The place was very heavily spoiled by pollution | 0:28:16 | 0:28:18 | |
and the stench of the sewage, it was like a large cesspit. | 0:28:18 | 0:28:21 | |
'..and learn how the potteries brought their products to the masses in Victorian times.' | 0:28:21 | 0:28:26 | |
This is incredibly difficult. This is fiendish! | 0:28:26 | 0:28:29 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:28:47 | 0:28:50 |