Browse content similar to Welshpool to Aberystwyth. Check below for episodes and series from the same categories and more!
Line | From | To | |
---|---|---|---|
In 1840, one man transformed travel in the British Isles. | 0:00:05 | 0:00:10 | |
His name was George Bradshaw, | 0:00:10 | 0:00:12 | |
and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks. | 0:00:12 | 0:00:16 | |
Stop-by-stop, he told them where to travel, | 0:00:18 | 0:00:21 | |
what to see and where to stay. | 0:00:21 | 0:00:23 | |
Now, 170 years later, I'm making a series of journeys across the length | 0:00:24 | 0:00:29 | |
and breadth of the isles to see what of Bradshaw's Britain remains. | 0:00:29 | 0:00:34 | |
I'm now completing my journey from High Wycombe to Aberystwyth. | 0:00:54 | 0:00:58 | |
I've left behind me the smoke stacks of the West Midlands in the | 0:00:58 | 0:01:01 | |
19th century and I'm on the Cambrian railway, looking to discover what | 0:01:01 | 0:01:07 | |
was the impact of industrialisation on rural and coastal towns in Wales. | 0:01:07 | 0:01:12 | |
'This scenic line opened up mid Wales to 19th-century travellers, | 0:01:12 | 0:01:16 | |
'and my Bradshaw's Guide steered them | 0:01:16 | 0:01:18 | |
'towards all that the region had to offer. | 0:01:18 | 0:01:21 | |
'Today, I'll experience Victorian entertainment in one of Wales' | 0:01:21 | 0:01:25 | |
'best-loved resorts...' | 0:01:25 | 0:01:27 | |
Here are the waves hitting the shore and here is the bay of Aberystwyth. | 0:01:27 | 0:01:31 | |
Isn't that marvellous? | 0:01:31 | 0:01:32 | |
'..hear how the railways took Welsh textiles into even the most | 0:01:32 | 0:01:36 | |
'exclusive households.' | 0:01:36 | 0:01:38 | |
When Queen Victoria sat down, | 0:01:38 | 0:01:40 | |
there was a good piece of Newtown flannel between her and the throne. | 0:01:40 | 0:01:43 | |
HE LAUGHS | 0:01:43 | 0:01:44 | |
'And unleash the power of a 19th-century engineering marvel.' | 0:01:44 | 0:01:49 | |
Whoa! | 0:01:49 | 0:01:51 | |
-Listen to the sound of that water! -It's got 125 feet of head behind it! | 0:01:51 | 0:01:55 | |
HE LAUGHS | 0:01:55 | 0:01:57 | |
This trip began in the Chilterns and has taken me | 0:02:01 | 0:02:04 | |
through the Victorians' beloved Shakespeare Country, and revealed | 0:02:04 | 0:02:08 | |
the rich industrial heritage of the 19th-century Midlands. | 0:02:08 | 0:02:11 | |
Now I'm heading for Wales, and my final stop on its west coast. | 0:02:13 | 0:02:17 | |
'On this last leg I'll begin in rural Welshpool, | 0:02:19 | 0:02:22 | |
'then stop off in Newtown, | 0:02:22 | 0:02:24 | |
'before exploring the beautiful county of Ceredigion.' | 0:02:24 | 0:02:27 | |
Judging from the many fields here studded with sheep and cows, | 0:02:30 | 0:02:33 | |
this area remains agricultural, as it was in the 19th century. | 0:02:33 | 0:02:38 | |
My first stop will be Welshpool. | 0:02:38 | 0:02:40 | |
Bradshaw's tells me that it's "a place of considerable trade," | 0:02:40 | 0:02:44 | |
which I think must be a reference to a market economy. | 0:02:44 | 0:02:48 | |
'I'm on the Shrewsbury to Welshpool line. | 0:02:52 | 0:02:55 | |
'Opened in 1862, it gave the town a new lease of life. | 0:02:55 | 0:02:59 | |
'I'm meeting local historian Chris Martin to hear the tale.' | 0:03:03 | 0:03:07 | |
-Hello, Chris. -Hello, Michael, welcome to Welshpool. -Thank you. | 0:03:09 | 0:03:12 | |
Rather a momentous pedestrian bridge? | 0:03:12 | 0:03:14 | |
Yes, it was put in when the bypass was constructed in 1990. | 0:03:14 | 0:03:17 | |
You can see the old station is over here. | 0:03:17 | 0:03:20 | |
'Chris is leading me to an abandoned spot beside the tracks. | 0:03:20 | 0:03:23 | |
'Here, Victorian visitors could have witnessed livestock | 0:03:23 | 0:03:27 | |
'being herded onto trains, | 0:03:27 | 0:03:28 | |
'as a result of Welshpool's thriving cattle and livestock market.' | 0:03:28 | 0:03:32 | |
So, in the heyday of the railway, how did the market here function? | 0:03:32 | 0:03:38 | |
Well, the market dates from more-or-less immediately after | 0:03:38 | 0:03:41 | |
the railway was built. | 0:03:41 | 0:03:43 | |
There was a terminal here built as sidings into the market, | 0:03:43 | 0:03:46 | |
so you could get stock in and out of the market, | 0:03:46 | 0:03:49 | |
you could take it out to the Midlands, bring in from the Midlands. | 0:03:49 | 0:03:53 | |
'Welshpool's rail links improved further | 0:03:53 | 0:03:55 | |
'when the Welshpool & Llanfair Light Railway opened in 1903. | 0:03:55 | 0:04:00 | |
'One of a number of narrow-gauge routes built from the late 1890s | 0:04:00 | 0:04:04 | |
'to stimulate the flagging rural economy, it gave remote | 0:04:04 | 0:04:08 | |
'farming communities direct access to markets.' | 0:04:08 | 0:04:11 | |
What was that line like? | 0:04:11 | 0:04:14 | |
Well, the line sort of came in at the northeast end of the town, | 0:04:14 | 0:04:18 | |
at a station, Raven Square, | 0:04:18 | 0:04:19 | |
then came down through the built-up area of the town. | 0:04:19 | 0:04:22 | |
You could see engines weaving their way through the traffic. | 0:04:22 | 0:04:25 | |
Health and safety nightmare, I suspect. | 0:04:25 | 0:04:28 | |
'Thanks to improvements in the roads, the narrow-gauge line | 0:04:28 | 0:04:32 | |
'closed in the 1950s, and while a stretch outside the town | 0:04:32 | 0:04:36 | |
'reopened as a heritage line, the tracks in the centre were removed. | 0:04:36 | 0:04:40 | |
'The market in the open air lasted in Welshpool until 2009, | 0:04:42 | 0:04:46 | |
'when it moved to a modern under-cover site out of town, built at a cost of £13 million.' | 0:04:46 | 0:04:52 | |
-Hello, Frank, how very good to see you. -Welcome to Welshpool. -Thank you. | 0:04:54 | 0:04:58 | |
'Retired auctioneer Frank Knight is giving me a guided tour.' | 0:04:58 | 0:05:03 | |
I had no idea I'd be seeing anything quite as vast as this. | 0:05:03 | 0:05:06 | |
-It's sheep from one end to the other, isn't it? -It is. It's quite a spectacle. | 0:05:06 | 0:05:10 | |
How long have you been with the market, Frank? | 0:05:10 | 0:05:13 | |
I left school in 1957 and joined the firm running the market then, | 0:05:13 | 0:05:19 | |
and I've been here ever since. | 0:05:19 | 0:05:21 | |
How does it rank now amongst national and international markets? | 0:05:21 | 0:05:27 | |
-It's the largest sheep market in Europe. -Really? | 0:05:27 | 0:05:29 | |
We've always claimed that and nobody's ever disputed it. | 0:05:29 | 0:05:34 | |
'Nowadays the livestock come by road, | 0:05:34 | 0:05:37 | |
'and on market day, the building throngs with buyers and sellers, | 0:05:37 | 0:05:40 | |
'all anxious to seal a bargain.' | 0:05:40 | 0:05:42 | |
-Are you a sheep farmer? -I AM a sheep farmer. -Good to see you. -Pleased to meet you. | 0:05:44 | 0:05:48 | |
How long have you been in the business? | 0:05:48 | 0:05:50 | |
Well, I'm 66 years of age now, and I've been in country life or farming life all my life, really. | 0:05:50 | 0:05:56 | |
Do you have any memory of the narrow-gauge, steam railway? | 0:05:56 | 0:05:59 | |
I just about remember it. | 0:05:59 | 0:06:01 | |
The engines then didn't make a big noise but you saw the steam, then knew the train was coming. | 0:06:01 | 0:06:06 | |
-It makes you nostalgic, doesn't it? -It does, only trouble is you feel old | 0:06:08 | 0:06:11 | |
when you look back and see them things happening. | 0:06:11 | 0:06:14 | |
Not old, just lucky to remember those days? | 0:06:14 | 0:06:16 | |
Lucky to remember those days, that's the main thing, we're here to remember. | 0:06:16 | 0:06:20 | |
-Morning, you buying or selling? -Selling. -These are yours? -Yes. | 0:06:20 | 0:06:23 | |
How often do you bring lamb in here? | 0:06:23 | 0:06:26 | |
Every week. Every Monday, there's a market. | 0:06:26 | 0:06:29 | |
You try to sell so you've got a continuous cash flow every week. | 0:06:29 | 0:06:33 | |
You bet, good luck. | 0:06:33 | 0:06:35 | |
'The seller's fate is in the hands of the auctioneer.' | 0:06:35 | 0:06:38 | |
-You're auctioning the sheep this morning? -Yes. | 0:06:38 | 0:06:40 | |
-How many? -Not so many today - only about 4,500, 5,000. | 0:06:40 | 0:06:44 | |
That sounds like quite a lot to me. How many on a really good day? | 0:06:44 | 0:06:47 | |
Up to 10,000...lambs, that's without ewes, there's 5,000-odd ewes here as well. | 0:06:47 | 0:06:52 | |
How do the bidders bid? | 0:06:52 | 0:06:54 | |
-Very sneakily - winking, twitching their nose. -Really? | 0:06:54 | 0:06:58 | |
-You're serious, aren't you? -I am. | 0:06:58 | 0:07:00 | |
You say what the next number is and they go...? | 0:07:00 | 0:07:02 | |
Yeah, you got it. You watch now when they go, you'll see. | 0:07:02 | 0:07:06 | |
We'll keep a watch out. Good luck with your auction. | 0:07:06 | 0:07:11 | |
58, 20, 80, 89. | 0:07:12 | 0:07:15 | |
Sold at £62. | 0:07:20 | 0:07:23 | |
Sold at £63. | 0:07:23 | 0:07:27 | |
'It strikes me that, while the setting may have changed, | 0:07:27 | 0:07:30 | |
'the back-and-forth of the auction would have been just the same | 0:07:30 | 0:07:33 | |
'in Bradshaw's day. | 0:07:33 | 0:07:36 | |
'The wool produced by Welsh sheep | 0:07:40 | 0:07:43 | |
'has long been a significant source of the country's wealth.' | 0:07:43 | 0:07:46 | |
'I'm now rejoining the Cambrian railway | 0:07:46 | 0:07:49 | |
'and heading for a place where it gave rise to a booming Victorian industry.' | 0:07:49 | 0:07:53 | |
Having now spent some time with woolly animals, | 0:07:57 | 0:08:00 | |
I'm attracted by this entry in my Bradshaw's for Newtown. | 0:08:00 | 0:08:03 | |
"A spacious flannel hall has been erected." | 0:08:03 | 0:08:07 | |
Now, any former politician knows how TO flannel, | 0:08:07 | 0:08:10 | |
but as for the material, my education looms ahead. | 0:08:10 | 0:08:14 | |
'Flannel is a soft fabric, | 0:08:14 | 0:08:16 | |
'which has been woven from Welsh wool for centuries. | 0:08:16 | 0:08:19 | |
'In the late 1700s, technological advances revolutionised it | 0:08:19 | 0:08:24 | |
'and dozens of factories sprang up in Newtown. | 0:08:24 | 0:08:27 | |
'But only in the railway age did this traditional product | 0:08:27 | 0:08:30 | |
'become a global brand.' | 0:08:30 | 0:08:32 | |
-Hello, David. -Hello, Michael, welcome to Newtown. -Very good to be here. | 0:08:36 | 0:08:40 | |
'Local historian David Pugh is sharing the story.' | 0:08:40 | 0:08:43 | |
What difference did the railways make to the flannel business here? | 0:08:43 | 0:08:46 | |
Well, that was the second phase of the flannel business. | 0:08:46 | 0:08:49 | |
In the mid-19th century, it declined and then... | 0:08:49 | 0:08:54 | |
the railway through to the rest of the country opened in 1860... | 0:08:54 | 0:09:00 | |
and also, thousands of miles away, something else happened, the American Civil War. | 0:09:00 | 0:09:06 | |
The Northern states blockaded the Southern ports, | 0:09:06 | 0:09:09 | |
cotton couldn't get out to Manchester, and the cotton industry collapsed | 0:09:09 | 0:09:13 | |
in Manchester, and the silver lining from that particular cloud fell | 0:09:13 | 0:09:17 | |
in Newtown, because if you can't have cotton, have soft Welsh flannel instead. | 0:09:17 | 0:09:23 | |
And the chap that saw the opportunity... | 0:09:23 | 0:09:28 | |
with the railway coming and the Civil War was a local draper, | 0:09:28 | 0:09:32 | |
and that's his monument over there, that building. | 0:09:32 | 0:09:35 | |
'The imposing Royal Welsh Warehouse was built by Newtown entrepreneur | 0:09:35 | 0:09:40 | |
'Pryce Pryce-Jones, whose big idea changed the way we shop forever.' | 0:09:40 | 0:09:46 | |
It's a palatial entrance, who was this Pryce-Jones? | 0:09:46 | 0:09:49 | |
He was a local man of humble origins. | 0:09:49 | 0:09:51 | |
He became an apprentice draper, | 0:09:51 | 0:09:54 | |
then started own business in the town centre. | 0:09:54 | 0:09:56 | |
Then, when the railway came, he had this idea, mail order. | 0:09:56 | 0:10:00 | |
Supposedly the first in the world. Certainly in Europe, Pryce-Jones | 0:10:00 | 0:10:03 | |
was the first to have a mail order store where people wrote in with their orders, | 0:10:03 | 0:10:07 | |
and the parcels were dispatched by rail just across the road. | 0:10:07 | 0:10:12 | |
'Pryce-Jones started out with small local orders for Newtown flannel, | 0:10:12 | 0:10:16 | |
'but as the railway network expanded, so did his business. | 0:10:16 | 0:10:20 | |
'By 1879, he was doing a roaring trade.' | 0:10:20 | 0:10:24 | |
He'd made enough money to leave his premises in the town centre, | 0:10:24 | 0:10:28 | |
which were much smaller, and build this vast Royal Welsh Warehouse... | 0:10:28 | 0:10:32 | |
and notice that it's not facing the town, it's facing the railway, | 0:10:32 | 0:10:35 | |
because it was the railway that it was...intended to impress... | 0:10:35 | 0:10:39 | |
travellers passing through the town, to see this great building. | 0:10:39 | 0:10:42 | |
If you go round the back, it's not nearly so ornate. | 0:10:42 | 0:10:45 | |
'Pryce-Jones soon became a national figure, | 0:10:45 | 0:10:48 | |
'elected as Conservative MP in 1885 and receiving a knighthood in 1887. | 0:10:48 | 0:10:54 | |
'He's even credited with the invention of the parcel post, | 0:10:54 | 0:10:58 | |
'having suggested to the Royal Mail that the system for letters | 0:10:58 | 0:11:01 | |
'be extended to packages. | 0:11:01 | 0:11:04 | |
'And the railways carried his flannel products right to | 0:11:04 | 0:11:08 | |
'the top of Victorian society.' | 0:11:08 | 0:11:10 | |
-That really is a most handsome window. -It is. | 0:11:10 | 0:11:14 | |
To commemorate Queen Victoria's patronage of his business. She was | 0:11:14 | 0:11:18 | |
a regular customer, as he claimed were all the crowned heads of Europe. | 0:11:18 | 0:11:22 | |
What sort of products do you think she bought from him? | 0:11:22 | 0:11:25 | |
Well... | 0:11:25 | 0:11:26 | |
Welsh flannel hand-woven, very soft, | 0:11:27 | 0:11:31 | |
ideal for wearing next to the skin, so when Queen Victoria sat down | 0:11:31 | 0:11:36 | |
there was a good piece of Newtown flannel between her and the throne. | 0:11:36 | 0:11:39 | |
HE LAUGHS | 0:11:39 | 0:11:41 | |
'Today, mail order has been transformed once again | 0:11:41 | 0:11:43 | |
'by the advent of the internet. | 0:11:43 | 0:11:46 | |
'It's so interesting to learn that the story started here. | 0:11:46 | 0:11:50 | |
'Before I rest for the night I've got one more journey to make, | 0:11:50 | 0:11:53 | |
'and it's a feast for the eyes. | 0:11:53 | 0:11:56 | |
'I'm following a section of the Cambrian Line built in 1863, | 0:11:56 | 0:12:00 | |
'whose stunning route crosses the Cambrian mountains | 0:12:00 | 0:12:03 | |
'and the River Severn. | 0:12:03 | 0:12:05 | |
'This picturesque landscape must have delighted Victorian railway | 0:12:12 | 0:12:15 | |
'travellers, and I'm leaving the tracks to take a closer look.' | 0:12:15 | 0:12:19 | |
Machynlleth, and what a beautiful train journey that was, | 0:12:20 | 0:12:24 | |
along that broad river valley, all those beautiful greens. | 0:12:24 | 0:12:28 | |
And it's so nice to see on a rural train service like this, | 0:12:28 | 0:12:31 | |
the train was virtually full. | 0:12:31 | 0:12:33 | |
'Machynlleth is the gateway to the southern part | 0:12:36 | 0:12:38 | |
of Snowdonia National Park, and my Bradshaw's | 0:12:38 | 0:12:41 | |
enthuses about this region's "Cyclopean precipices... | 0:12:41 | 0:12:45 | |
"upheaved at our very path." | 0:12:45 | 0:12:49 | |
'It recommends exploring the pretty area around Dolgellau | 0:12:49 | 0:12:52 | |
'and who better to enjoy it with than local artist Keith Davies?' | 0:12:52 | 0:12:57 | |
You're a painter, aren't you? | 0:12:57 | 0:12:59 | |
What do you find compelling about this countryside? | 0:12:59 | 0:13:02 | |
Well, just everything. | 0:13:02 | 0:13:03 | |
The light's fantastic. but everything I want to paint is here... | 0:13:03 | 0:13:06 | |
the mountains, the forest, the beach, the sea. | 0:13:06 | 0:13:09 | |
If you can't get inspired here, you can't get inspired anywhere. | 0:13:09 | 0:13:12 | |
'Soon after my guidebook was published, a branch line was | 0:13:12 | 0:13:15 | |
'built which passed through Dolgellau en route to the coast. | 0:13:15 | 0:13:19 | |
'Closed in the 1960s, it's now a popular walk, | 0:13:19 | 0:13:22 | |
'and while the main attraction is the scenery, | 0:13:22 | 0:13:24 | |
'traces of the railway heritage can still be seen.' | 0:13:24 | 0:13:27 | |
This really is enchanting as the sun goes down. | 0:13:27 | 0:13:31 | |
It's absolutely amazing, an artist's dream. | 0:13:31 | 0:13:34 | |
And this, quite evidently, is the old railway station? | 0:13:34 | 0:13:38 | |
Yes, it is. We start with the booking office, the ticket office, | 0:13:38 | 0:13:41 | |
and on the end, the stationmaster's house. | 0:13:41 | 0:13:43 | |
'Today the old railway buildings form part of a small hotel. | 0:13:43 | 0:13:47 | |
'An ideal spot for my Bradshaw's and me to spend the night.' | 0:13:47 | 0:13:51 | |
To wake to such a morning in such a wonderful landscape, | 0:14:03 | 0:14:07 | |
it's a joy to be alive, a joy to travel. | 0:14:07 | 0:14:10 | |
'It's time for me to retrace my steps to Machynlleth... | 0:14:13 | 0:14:16 | |
'and embark on the final part of the Cambrian Line.' | 0:14:16 | 0:14:20 | |
This spectacular scenery is bringing me | 0:14:29 | 0:14:32 | |
towards my last destination on the regular railway, Aberystwyth, | 0:14:32 | 0:14:36 | |
of which Bradshaw says, "There's no station southward of Caernarvonshire | 0:14:36 | 0:14:40 | |
"from which the Welsh Alps may be so advantageously seen,." | 0:14:40 | 0:14:45 | |
It also bring me of course to the Irish Sea and a resort which, | 0:14:45 | 0:14:48 | |
in the late 19th century, was populated with Black Country workers | 0:14:48 | 0:14:52 | |
and their families, anxious to dip their coal-stained toes in the brine. | 0:14:52 | 0:14:57 | |
'When my guidebook was published, this line was not yet complete, | 0:14:59 | 0:15:02 | |
'stopping eight miles short of Aberystwyth. | 0:15:02 | 0:15:05 | |
'Despite that, my Bradshaw's has a detailed entry for the town. | 0:15:07 | 0:15:11 | |
'Its author clearly knew that this place would astonish railway tourists.' | 0:15:11 | 0:15:15 | |
Aberystwyth station is built on a scale that reminds us | 0:15:18 | 0:15:21 | |
that this was once a substantial resort. | 0:15:21 | 0:15:24 | |
I like to imagine, in Victorian times, the steam engines | 0:15:24 | 0:15:27 | |
smoking behind as thousands of excursionists disembark, | 0:15:27 | 0:15:32 | |
many of them about to see the sea for the first time. | 0:15:32 | 0:15:35 | |
'By the early 1900s, | 0:15:37 | 0:15:39 | |
'Aberystwyth was welcoming thousands of visitors every year, | 0:15:39 | 0:15:43 | |
'and the seafront was lined with Victorian buildings and a fine new pier.' | 0:15:43 | 0:15:48 | |
'I'm admiring it with local historian Michael Freeman.' | 0:15:48 | 0:15:52 | |
-Michael. -Hello, Michael. | 0:15:52 | 0:15:54 | |
I must say, I'm bowled over by this view, it's absolutely superb. | 0:15:54 | 0:15:58 | |
I always enjoy looking at it, especially at sunset. | 0:15:58 | 0:16:01 | |
Was Aberystwyth already an important resort before the railways? | 0:16:01 | 0:16:05 | |
Yes, from the 1770s, the gentry came here in quite large numbers. | 0:16:05 | 0:16:09 | |
It was quite an exclusive resort because it was | 0:16:09 | 0:16:11 | |
so expensive to travel across the mountains of Wales. | 0:16:11 | 0:16:14 | |
And where were they staying in those pre-railway days? | 0:16:14 | 0:16:17 | |
There were a few hotels, or "inns" as they called them then... | 0:16:17 | 0:16:22 | |
so that's mostly where they would have stayed, | 0:16:22 | 0:16:24 | |
then they had an assembly room where they would have met to socialise | 0:16:24 | 0:16:27 | |
and dance and play cards. | 0:16:27 | 0:16:29 | |
'But this genteel resort was soon to change forever, | 0:16:29 | 0:16:33 | |
'with the arrival of the Aberystwyth & Welsh Coast Railway line in 1864. | 0:16:33 | 0:16:39 | |
'At a stroke, a whole new section of society could afford to travel here.' | 0:16:39 | 0:16:43 | |
Where were they coming from? | 0:16:43 | 0:16:45 | |
Mostly the Midlands, Birmingham area, because all the trains could come here | 0:16:45 | 0:16:48 | |
quite easily then, there were far more train lines in Wales than earlier on. | 0:16:48 | 0:16:52 | |
'The early railway tourists came to exchange the smoke | 0:16:52 | 0:16:56 | |
'of Britain's industrial heartland for fresh air and sunshine. | 0:16:56 | 0:17:00 | |
'But by the end of the 19th century, | 0:17:00 | 0:17:02 | |
'more sophisticated entertainment was available.' | 0:17:02 | 0:17:07 | |
Ah, exposed to the elements. | 0:17:07 | 0:17:09 | |
'This funicular railway was opened in 1896, | 0:17:10 | 0:17:13 | |
'part of an ambitious programme to turn so-called Constitution Hill | 0:17:13 | 0:17:18 | |
'into a special tourist attraction.' | 0:17:18 | 0:17:20 | |
The view of Aberystwyth is absolutely superb. | 0:17:20 | 0:17:22 | |
It is magnificent from up here, | 0:17:22 | 0:17:24 | |
and many people would have climbed the hill just to see that. | 0:17:24 | 0:17:27 | |
'Supposedly the longest in Britain, | 0:17:27 | 0:17:29 | |
'the funicular led tourists to hilltop pleasure gardens, | 0:17:29 | 0:17:32 | |
'including a Victorian favourite attraction, the camera obscura. | 0:17:32 | 0:17:36 | |
'This optical device allowed tourists to see a moving | 0:17:38 | 0:17:41 | |
'image of the world outside from within the confines of a building. | 0:17:41 | 0:17:45 | |
'Modern visitors can experience a 1980s reproduction | 0:17:45 | 0:17:48 | |
'of the 19th-century original.' | 0:17:48 | 0:17:52 | |
So what am I seeing there? | 0:17:52 | 0:17:54 | |
This is a live image of what's going on outside. | 0:17:54 | 0:17:57 | |
It's projected from a mirror above us onto this table. | 0:17:57 | 0:18:01 | |
Here are the waves hitting the shore and here is the bay of Aberystwyth. | 0:18:01 | 0:18:05 | |
Isn't that marvellous? | 0:18:05 | 0:18:08 | |
'The principle is the same as a pinhole camera | 0:18:08 | 0:18:11 | |
'and dates back to antiquity. | 0:18:11 | 0:18:13 | |
'By Victorian times, | 0:18:13 | 0:18:15 | |
'improved lenses had seaside tourists marvelling at the perfect picture.' | 0:18:15 | 0:18:20 | |
In the late 19th century, | 0:18:20 | 0:18:22 | |
nobody would have seen a moving image before? | 0:18:22 | 0:18:24 | |
No, it must have been exciting for them, to see that, | 0:18:24 | 0:18:27 | |
but of course, the cinema took over and this went out of fashion... | 0:18:27 | 0:18:32 | |
at the beginning of the 20th century. | 0:18:32 | 0:18:34 | |
Well, I think this has given me | 0:18:34 | 0:18:36 | |
almost as clear an image of Victorian Britain as my Bradshaw's. | 0:18:36 | 0:18:41 | |
'The Victorians made the seaside break a British institution, | 0:18:41 | 0:18:44 | |
'and right through the 20th century, the people of the Midlands flocked | 0:18:44 | 0:18:48 | |
'to the so-called "Biarritz of Wales." | 0:18:48 | 0:18:51 | |
'Before my last train of the day, | 0:18:51 | 0:18:53 | |
'I'm catching up with Birmingham-born Pat Hovers, | 0:18:53 | 0:18:57 | |
'who first visited Aberystwyth over 50 years ago.' | 0:18:57 | 0:19:00 | |
What kind of a resort was it in the '60s? | 0:19:00 | 0:19:02 | |
It was very popular, because coming to the seaside | 0:19:02 | 0:19:06 | |
was an adventure in those days, and Midlanders very much came to | 0:19:06 | 0:19:09 | |
this part of Wales, to Aberystwyth, whereas | 0:19:09 | 0:19:12 | |
the Manchester people would go north to Blackpool. It was where the railway lines go. | 0:19:12 | 0:19:17 | |
So what did you do in Aberystwyth. Was it ice creams and candy floss? | 0:19:17 | 0:19:20 | |
Paddling. | 0:19:22 | 0:19:23 | |
You had to go in the sea if you came to the coast. | 0:19:23 | 0:19:27 | |
And, yes, ice creams on the prom. Just walking along the prom, | 0:19:27 | 0:19:30 | |
there was always something going on, Punch and Judy sometimes, | 0:19:30 | 0:19:34 | |
and the pier and the amusements. | 0:19:34 | 0:19:36 | |
Something must have appealed to you as you've now settled in the area? | 0:19:36 | 0:19:40 | |
Indeed I have, yes. | 0:19:40 | 0:19:43 | |
I can't think what it was. I could say, | 0:19:43 | 0:19:45 | |
"Rwy'n hapus iawn i fyw yn y diwylliant Cymreig," | 0:19:45 | 0:19:49 | |
but my accent isn't very good. | 0:19:49 | 0:19:50 | |
-What would that mean? -"I'm very happy to live in the Welsh culture." | 0:19:50 | 0:19:53 | |
I remember my children coming home and saying, "The Brummies are here." | 0:19:53 | 0:19:57 | |
What they actually said was, | 0:19:57 | 0:19:59 | |
"The otters and grotters are here." I said, "What do you mean?!" | 0:19:59 | 0:20:02 | |
"Oh, they come from Birmingham and they say, 'It's 'otter here than it is at home.' | 0:20:02 | 0:20:06 | |
I had to remind them they were born and bred in Birmingham, | 0:20:06 | 0:20:11 | |
so we would not laugh | 0:20:11 | 0:20:12 | |
at the otters and grotters, no, not at all. | 0:20:12 | 0:20:15 | |
'When my guidebook was published, tourists wanting to explore | 0:20:15 | 0:20:19 | |
'the area around Aberystwyth had to go by coach or on foot, | 0:20:19 | 0:20:24 | |
'but very soon, along came a much more satisfactory way to travel.' | 0:20:24 | 0:20:28 | |
You may think that there's nothing so beautiful as to see | 0:20:30 | 0:20:33 | |
the Welsh landscape slip by through the window of a train. | 0:20:33 | 0:20:37 | |
But what about this? | 0:20:37 | 0:20:39 | |
All-round visibility | 0:20:39 | 0:20:41 | |
in the first-class observation saloon | 0:20:41 | 0:20:44 | |
of the Vale Of Rheidol Railway, | 0:20:44 | 0:20:46 | |
which has been carrying tourists for 110 years. | 0:20:46 | 0:20:49 | |
'First opened in 1902 to serve local lead mines, this narrow-gauge line | 0:20:51 | 0:20:56 | |
'was soon popular with holidaymakers, and remains so today. | 0:20:56 | 0:21:00 | |
'From vintage 1920s and '30s carriages, | 0:21:06 | 0:21:09 | |
'tourists can admire stunning views on their way to a landmark | 0:21:09 | 0:21:14 | |
'favoured by Victorian visitors...' | 0:21:14 | 0:21:16 | |
My Bradshaw's says that Pontarfynach, | 0:21:17 | 0:21:20 | |
or "the devil's bridge" is no more than 12 miles away, | 0:21:20 | 0:21:23 | |
and although those words were written 40 years before this line was built, | 0:21:23 | 0:21:27 | |
it is indeed just short of 12 miles, following the course | 0:21:27 | 0:21:31 | |
of the River Rheidol. | 0:21:31 | 0:21:33 | |
I can hear the locomotive straining ahead as we climb 650 feet | 0:21:33 | 0:21:38 | |
through intense greenery of this gentle Mid-Wales country. | 0:21:38 | 0:21:42 | |
'I'm leaving the train at Devil's Bridge station, | 0:21:46 | 0:21:49 | |
'which takes its name from an 11th-century bridge over the River Mynach. | 0:21:49 | 0:21:53 | |
'Since surmounted by two newer bridges, this curiosity can be | 0:21:53 | 0:21:57 | |
'admired en route to the nearby Devil's Bridge Falls. | 0:21:57 | 0:22:01 | |
'Rendered in paint by Turner and in verse by Wordsworth, | 0:22:02 | 0:22:06 | |
'their natural beauty magnetised Victorian tourists. | 0:22:06 | 0:22:10 | |
'But I'm heading off the beaten track, in search of a man-made marvel.' | 0:22:12 | 0:22:16 | |
During the course of my travels, | 0:22:16 | 0:22:18 | |
I've admired many feats of Victorian engineering, | 0:22:18 | 0:22:21 | |
but now I've ventured some distance from the nearest railway station | 0:22:21 | 0:22:25 | |
to see one that, even by the standards of the age, | 0:22:25 | 0:22:29 | |
was vast and audacious. | 0:22:29 | 0:22:31 | |
'This epic site is the extraordinary Elan Valley reservoir system, | 0:22:33 | 0:22:38 | |
'whose series of dams holds back up to 100,000 megalitres of pure Welsh water. | 0:22:38 | 0:22:43 | |
'Begun in the 1890s, it's a fitting final stop on my long journey | 0:22:43 | 0:22:48 | |
'from the heart of England to Mid Wales. | 0:22:48 | 0:22:50 | |
'Because this water is destined for the taps of Birmingham. | 0:22:50 | 0:22:54 | |
'I'll hear the explanation from site manager Noel Hughes.' | 0:22:54 | 0:22:59 | |
-Hello. -Hello, Michael, welcome to Elan Valley. | 0:22:59 | 0:23:02 | |
'As industrial Birmingham boomed and its population mushroomed, | 0:23:02 | 0:23:05 | |
'the inadequate water supply led to devastating epidemics of cholera | 0:23:05 | 0:23:10 | |
'and typhoid. | 0:23:10 | 0:23:11 | |
'So the City Corporation bought land in the Elan Valley, 70 miles away. | 0:23:11 | 0:23:16 | |
'Their bold vision was to carry water by pipeline to Birmingham.' | 0:23:16 | 0:23:22 | |
Give me an idea of the scale of this thing. | 0:23:22 | 0:23:24 | |
It was phenomenal. | 0:23:24 | 0:23:25 | |
It was one of the largest Victorian engineering complexes at the time. | 0:23:25 | 0:23:31 | |
Liverpool had certainly constructed a dam some ten years prior to that | 0:23:31 | 0:23:36 | |
to supply water to the city, but on this scale, it's phenomenal. | 0:23:36 | 0:23:41 | |
How did they transport the materials they needed? | 0:23:41 | 0:23:43 | |
Well, in this area you'd expect them to quarry | 0:23:43 | 0:23:46 | |
and use the local stone. | 0:23:46 | 0:23:48 | |
However, the local stone here is so hard, it's one of the hardest granites in Wales, | 0:23:48 | 0:23:53 | |
so they transported the stone from the South Wales valleys by railway. | 0:23:53 | 0:23:58 | |
There was about 33 miles of railway constructed in the Elan Valley | 0:23:58 | 0:24:04 | |
to assist with the building of the reservoirs themselves. | 0:24:04 | 0:24:07 | |
'The ambitious project needed dismaying tonnages of stone and unimaginable numbers of men.' | 0:24:07 | 0:24:14 | |
Over the 12 years that it took to construct the dams, | 0:24:14 | 0:24:18 | |
50,000 people went through the books. | 0:24:18 | 0:24:21 | |
-Goodness. -At any one time, there was 5,000 people working. | 0:24:21 | 0:24:25 | |
They must have made a construction village, I suppose? | 0:24:25 | 0:24:28 | |
They did, what they called the navvy village which held | 0:24:28 | 0:24:32 | |
somewhere in the region of 2-2,500 people at any one time. | 0:24:32 | 0:24:35 | |
It was a wooden shanty town, | 0:24:35 | 0:24:38 | |
constructed just downstream of the first dam. | 0:24:38 | 0:24:41 | |
'With typical Victorian attention to detail, | 0:24:42 | 0:24:45 | |
'every aspect of the project was carefully conceived, | 0:24:45 | 0:24:48 | |
'and the result is a system of dams which are both functional and elegant.' | 0:24:48 | 0:24:53 | |
Here we are, Michael, Penygarreg Dam. | 0:24:53 | 0:24:56 | |
I mean, of course it's huge, | 0:24:56 | 0:24:59 | |
but I didn't expect it to be so beautiful with this lovely, cascading foam. | 0:24:59 | 0:25:04 | |
That's right, yes. It was designed that way to oxygenate the water as it cascades over. | 0:25:04 | 0:25:10 | |
It must cost a lot to maintain a Victorian structure? | 0:25:10 | 0:25:13 | |
Not at all. The construction itself is designed to be almost maintenance-free. | 0:25:13 | 0:25:18 | |
It's as good now as when first constructed. | 0:25:18 | 0:25:21 | |
They were fantastic people, those Victorians. | 0:25:21 | 0:25:23 | |
They knew what they were doing! | 0:25:23 | 0:25:25 | |
'By the time the project was complete, | 0:25:26 | 0:25:28 | |
'Victoria's reign had ended, and her son Edward VII opened the pipeline in 1904. | 0:25:28 | 0:25:35 | |
'Amazingly, the dam's inner workings have barely changed since then.' | 0:25:35 | 0:25:39 | |
-Helmet for you, Michael. -Thank you. | 0:25:41 | 0:25:43 | |
-Would like to go first? -Is it a long way? -There's 174 steps to go down! | 0:25:45 | 0:25:50 | |
'Our destination is the valve chamber, right in the heart of the dam.' | 0:25:52 | 0:25:57 | |
What we have here is the original Victorian valves that were installed some 110 years ago. | 0:25:58 | 0:26:04 | |
'Normally, water flows over the top of the dam into the next reservoir, | 0:26:04 | 0:26:08 | |
'but the valves are used in times of drought to regulate the supply. | 0:26:08 | 0:26:12 | |
Eventually, it reaches the main reservoir, where it's filtered, | 0:26:12 | 0:26:16 | |
before being gently propelled by gravity along a closed aqueduct to the Midlands. | 0:26:16 | 0:26:21 | |
I tell you what we'll do, we'll do what the king did 110 years ago. | 0:26:21 | 0:26:24 | |
-Let's release the water to Birmingham. -Let's give it a go. -OK. | 0:26:24 | 0:26:29 | |
-HE GROANS -There we go. And again. | 0:26:29 | 0:26:32 | |
Whoa, listen to the sound of that water! | 0:26:32 | 0:26:36 | |
Indeed, it's got 125 feet of head behind it! | 0:26:36 | 0:26:40 | |
HE LAUGHS | 0:26:40 | 0:26:41 | |
The water is roaring past us! | 0:26:41 | 0:26:44 | |
I think that should be enough to keep 'em going for tomorrow. | 0:26:46 | 0:26:49 | |
The whole chamber is soaking with the water! | 0:26:49 | 0:26:52 | |
Water, water everywhere. Enough for Birmingham to drink. | 0:26:53 | 0:27:00 | |
'Feeling the sheer power of the water brings home | 0:27:02 | 0:27:05 | |
'the admirable self-confidence of the engineers who built this dam. | 0:27:05 | 0:27:10 | |
'No challenge was too great for the visionaries of the railway age.' | 0:27:10 | 0:27:14 | |
Guided by my Bradshaw's, my travels through the West Midlands | 0:27:16 | 0:27:20 | |
reminded me that for the majority of Queen Victoria's subjects, | 0:27:20 | 0:27:23 | |
industrialisation brought squalor, disease | 0:27:23 | 0:27:27 | |
and dangerous working conditions. | 0:27:27 | 0:27:29 | |
But regular wages also produced higher living standards, | 0:27:29 | 0:27:33 | |
new engineering supplied clean water, and the railways opened up | 0:27:33 | 0:27:38 | |
the country and seaside to city dwellers who'd never before seen such beauty. | 0:27:38 | 0:27:45 | |
Victorian Britain offered for the first time to working people... | 0:27:45 | 0:27:49 | |
broad horizons. | 0:27:49 | 0:27:51 | |
'On my next journey, | 0:27:54 | 0:27:55 | |
'I'll travel sea-to-sea from the Solent to the Humber, | 0:27:55 | 0:27:59 | |
'starting at the centuries-old naval hub of Portsmouth.' | 0:27:59 | 0:28:03 | |
Fire! CANNON FIRES | 0:28:03 | 0:28:05 | |
'I'll visit a surprising 19th-century place of worship.' | 0:28:05 | 0:28:09 | |
It's not only the first UK mosque, it's the first in Northern Europe. | 0:28:09 | 0:28:14 | |
'Put in a shift at London's oldest fish market.' | 0:28:14 | 0:28:17 | |
Man wants his fish today, not the weekend. | 0:28:17 | 0:28:20 | |
'And marvel at Lincoln's most-impressive cathedral.' | 0:28:20 | 0:28:23 | |
Like fingers of honey-coloured stone. Absolutely breathtaking. | 0:28:23 | 0:28:27 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:28:52 | 0:28:55 |