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In 1840, one man transformed travel in the British Isles. | 0:00:05 | 0:00:10 | |
His name was George Bradshaw | 0:00:10 | 0:00:12 | |
and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks. | 0:00:12 | 0:00:16 | |
Stop by stop he told them where to travel, | 0:00:18 | 0:00:21 | |
what to see and where to stay. | 0:00:21 | 0:00:23 | |
Now, 170 years later, I'm making a series of journeys | 0:00:25 | 0:00:29 | |
across the length and breadth of these isles | 0:00:29 | 0:00:32 | |
to see what of Bradshaw's Britain remains. | 0:00:32 | 0:00:34 | |
The advent of the railways in the 19th century | 0:00:57 | 0:01:00 | |
connected the interior of the British Isles to 6,000 miles of coastline, | 0:01:00 | 0:01:04 | |
carrying sailors to military ports and fish to British cities. | 0:01:04 | 0:01:09 | |
Using my Bradshaw's Guide, | 0:01:09 | 0:01:11 | |
I'm embarked on a new journey from sea to sea. | 0:01:11 | 0:01:15 | |
From the centuries old naval hub at Portsmouth | 0:01:15 | 0:01:18 | |
through the port of London, | 0:01:18 | 0:01:19 | |
to what was once the largest fishing port in the world - Grimsby. | 0:01:19 | 0:01:23 | |
'On today's journey, I'll be feeding the crew | 0:01:25 | 0:01:28 | |
'of Britain's newest warship...' | 0:01:28 | 0:01:30 | |
Lovely gooey beans. | 0:01:30 | 0:01:32 | |
-Tomato? -Yes, please. -Slippery little fellows. | 0:01:32 | 0:01:35 | |
Have a great commissioning day. | 0:01:35 | 0:01:37 | |
'..Discovering how the Victorians planned to repel | 0:01:37 | 0:01:39 | |
'a possible French invasion...' | 0:01:39 | 0:01:41 | |
Fire! | 0:01:41 | 0:01:43 | |
'..And learning that there's well established industry | 0:01:44 | 0:01:47 | |
'where one might least expect to find it.' | 0:01:47 | 0:01:50 | |
BELL CLANGS | 0:01:50 | 0:01:52 | |
Not a bad turn of speed considering she's 98 years old. | 0:01:53 | 0:01:57 | |
Using my Bradshaw's Guide, | 0:02:01 | 0:02:03 | |
I'll begin on the Hampshire coast in Portsmouth, | 0:02:03 | 0:02:05 | |
travel up through Surrey, on to London | 0:02:05 | 0:02:08 | |
and push north east to Cambridgeshire, | 0:02:08 | 0:02:12 | |
alighting finally in Grimsby on the Lincolnshire coast. | 0:02:12 | 0:02:15 | |
The first leg of my journey starts in Portsmouth, | 0:02:18 | 0:02:20 | |
takes me north to Godalming in Surrey, | 0:02:20 | 0:02:22 | |
on to Guildford and finally to the village of Gomshall. | 0:02:22 | 0:02:26 | |
My first stop, Portsmouth, is still a major dockyard and military base. | 0:02:32 | 0:02:37 | |
In Victorian times, the Royal Navy defended the realm | 0:02:37 | 0:02:42 | |
and its empire, so no wonder that Bradshaw's is patriotic in tone. | 0:02:42 | 0:02:47 | |
"Portsmouth is the principle rendezvous of the British Navy. | 0:02:47 | 0:02:51 | |
"The power of the English Navy consists in the vast | 0:02:51 | 0:02:54 | |
"collection of materials, the number of ships, the skill | 0:02:54 | 0:02:58 | |
"and experience of the officers and the excellence of the seamen". | 0:02:58 | 0:03:02 | |
In those days, Britannia really did rule the waves, | 0:03:02 | 0:03:06 | |
and the arrival of the railways in Portsmouth | 0:03:06 | 0:03:09 | |
enabled it to increase its military efficiency. | 0:03:09 | 0:03:12 | |
When trains first arrived here in 1847, | 0:03:18 | 0:03:22 | |
they terminated at Portsmouth Town Station. | 0:03:22 | 0:03:25 | |
Because the docks were so heavily fortified, | 0:03:25 | 0:03:28 | |
rail wasn't allowed direct access to the quayside. | 0:03:28 | 0:03:32 | |
It wasn't until 1876 | 0:03:32 | 0:03:34 | |
that my first stop, Portsmouth Harbour Station, opened. | 0:03:34 | 0:03:38 | |
Portsmouth Harbour Station is exceptional | 0:03:38 | 0:03:40 | |
because it's cantilevered over the sea. | 0:03:40 | 0:03:42 | |
We used to use this station when I was a kid | 0:03:42 | 0:03:44 | |
going on holidays to the Isle of Wight, and it used to thrill me. | 0:03:44 | 0:03:47 | |
In those days, you could look between your feet | 0:03:47 | 0:03:49 | |
and you could see the foam billowing beneath you. | 0:03:49 | 0:03:52 | |
And when you can see the sea from your railway station, | 0:03:52 | 0:03:55 | |
then you know that your holiday has begun. | 0:03:55 | 0:03:57 | |
But rail links to Britain's ports are more than mere holiday gateways. | 0:04:02 | 0:04:06 | |
Trains have transported supplies and sailors to boats, | 0:04:06 | 0:04:10 | |
and raw materials to the shipyards that build them | 0:04:10 | 0:04:12 | |
since the Industrial Revolution. | 0:04:12 | 0:04:14 | |
But today, the ships look very different. | 0:04:16 | 0:04:18 | |
If George Bradshaw were alive today, he might be disappointed | 0:04:19 | 0:04:23 | |
at how few vessels the Royal Navy now has, | 0:04:23 | 0:04:25 | |
but he would surely be overawed by their fire power | 0:04:25 | 0:04:29 | |
and their technology, and this one here is brand new. | 0:04:29 | 0:04:33 | |
It's a Type 45 destroyer. It's called HMS Dragon, | 0:04:33 | 0:04:36 | |
and by an extraordinary bit of coincidence and luck | 0:04:36 | 0:04:38 | |
I am here on the day that it's being commissioned. | 0:04:38 | 0:04:41 | |
The fourth of six Type 45 Daring Class Destroyers, | 0:04:43 | 0:04:47 | |
HMS Dragon is 152 metres long, | 0:04:47 | 0:04:50 | |
displaces over 7,500 tonnes, can reach over 30 knots, | 0:04:50 | 0:04:56 | |
and has the Sea Viper missile system which packs a punch. | 0:04:56 | 0:04:59 | |
She's also an extraordinary and futuristic shape. | 0:04:59 | 0:05:03 | |
I've been invited aboard to help out on the vessel's commissioning day, | 0:05:03 | 0:05:08 | |
her official welcome into the Royal Navy. | 0:05:08 | 0:05:11 | |
Morning, gentlemen. | 0:05:11 | 0:05:12 | |
What a fantastic morning to commission a ship. | 0:05:12 | 0:05:15 | |
-Welcome to Dragon. -Thank you. | 0:05:15 | 0:05:16 | |
No matter how new the ship, | 0:05:16 | 0:05:18 | |
centuries old traditions must be maintained. | 0:05:18 | 0:05:22 | |
-I just have my one action. -One action. One job. | 0:05:22 | 0:05:25 | |
-Which follows the words, "Make it so". -Make it so. | 0:05:25 | 0:05:27 | |
-Happy? -Happy. -Brilliant. | 0:05:27 | 0:05:30 | |
Make it so. | 0:05:30 | 0:05:31 | |
BELL RINGS | 0:05:31 | 0:05:33 | |
'At 0800 hours every day, | 0:05:33 | 0:05:35 | |
'all docked Royal Navy vessels inform their crew | 0:05:35 | 0:05:38 | |
'that the watch is changing with eight tolls of the ship's bell.' | 0:05:38 | 0:05:41 | |
Pipe the still. | 0:05:43 | 0:05:44 | |
'And then immediately salute Her Majesty the Queen | 0:05:44 | 0:05:47 | |
'by raising the White Ensign. | 0:05:47 | 0:05:49 | |
'Napoleon famously said that an army marches on its stomach, | 0:05:53 | 0:05:57 | |
'and my next duty should tell me whether the same is true | 0:05:57 | 0:06:00 | |
'of their navy colleagues.' | 0:06:00 | 0:06:01 | |
-Morning. -Morning. -What can I do for you, sir? | 0:06:03 | 0:06:06 | |
Two bacon, two sausage, please. | 0:06:06 | 0:06:08 | |
-We've got two sorts of eggs. Which would you like? -Fried egg, please. | 0:06:08 | 0:06:11 | |
Beans. Lovely gooey beans. | 0:06:11 | 0:06:14 | |
-Tomato? -Yes, please. | 0:06:14 | 0:06:16 | |
And sausages. How many today? Slippery little fellows. | 0:06:16 | 0:06:19 | |
-And some mushrooms. You like your mushrooms? -Yes, I do. | 0:06:19 | 0:06:22 | |
-Have a great commissioning day. -Thank you. | 0:06:22 | 0:06:25 | |
They tell me you're a butler in civvy street. | 0:06:25 | 0:06:28 | |
I was, sir, yes, in civvy street. | 0:06:28 | 0:06:30 | |
How long have you been in the Royal Navy? | 0:06:30 | 0:06:31 | |
-I've been in for five years, sir. -What are your signature dishes? | 0:06:31 | 0:06:35 | |
We usually give the captain three options to choose from, | 0:06:35 | 0:06:38 | |
and generally it's the fillet steak he goes for. | 0:06:38 | 0:06:40 | |
-It's quite a long way from Hornblower, isn't it? -It certainly is, sir. | 0:06:40 | 0:06:44 | |
How important is the food to the ship's morale? | 0:06:44 | 0:06:47 | |
Sometimes when we're at sea it's the only thing that changes, | 0:06:47 | 0:06:50 | |
and so it's the only thing that they look forward to, | 0:06:50 | 0:06:52 | |
and afterwards the only thing they seem to moan about. | 0:06:52 | 0:06:55 | |
I don't think they moan much about your food. That's my feeling. | 0:06:55 | 0:06:58 | |
'Kitchen duties dispensed, | 0:06:58 | 0:07:00 | |
'HMS Dragon's steak loving Commanding Officer Darren Houston | 0:07:00 | 0:07:05 | |
'has granted me a sneak preview of the bridge | 0:07:05 | 0:07:07 | |
'on his state-of-the-art ship.' | 0:07:07 | 0:07:10 | |
-Captain, good morning. -Good morning, Michael. Welcome to HMS Dragon. | 0:07:10 | 0:07:13 | |
-You must be the proudest man in the Royal Navy today. -Very much so. | 0:07:13 | 0:07:16 | |
The Royal Navy today has fewer ships than it used to have, | 0:07:16 | 0:07:19 | |
but the firepower of these things | 0:07:19 | 0:07:20 | |
has to be compared with battleships of the past | 0:07:20 | 0:07:23 | |
or indeed numbers of battleships of the past. | 0:07:23 | 0:07:26 | |
Well, interesting you pick up on that, because the size of this ship | 0:07:26 | 0:07:29 | |
is going back to the size of a cruiser, for example, | 0:07:29 | 0:07:32 | |
in World War II. | 0:07:32 | 0:07:33 | |
We may not have the large double barrelled guns on the front, | 0:07:33 | 0:07:36 | |
however the Sea Viper missile system is the latest technology. | 0:07:36 | 0:07:40 | |
Being that big you must be pretty visible to the enemy. | 0:07:40 | 0:07:44 | |
We've got a little cunning plan there. Because the angles | 0:07:44 | 0:07:47 | |
of the side of the ship are sloping, in actual fact | 0:07:47 | 0:07:50 | |
we look like a fishing vessel to an enemy radar - | 0:07:50 | 0:07:53 | |
or that's what we hope we do. | 0:07:53 | 0:07:54 | |
You've got the most beautiful red leather chair here. | 0:07:54 | 0:07:57 | |
-This is presumably where you sit? -It is, this is the captain's chair. | 0:07:57 | 0:08:01 | |
I'm very, very lucky to have a Rolls Royce Ghost chair, | 0:08:01 | 0:08:03 | |
which was fitted recently and should make sitting on the bridge | 0:08:03 | 0:08:06 | |
extremely comfortable. I think it'll worry the officer's watch | 0:08:06 | 0:08:10 | |
slightly, because I'll spend an awful lot of time here. | 0:08:10 | 0:08:12 | |
And here is the beautiful ship's crest, | 0:08:12 | 0:08:15 | |
which we see on the commissioning day. | 0:08:15 | 0:08:18 | |
-We do, yes. -Congratulations. -Thank you very much indeed. | 0:08:18 | 0:08:21 | |
The Royal Navy may be shrinking, but the senior service is active | 0:08:21 | 0:08:25 | |
on the world's stage, | 0:08:25 | 0:08:27 | |
policing the Arabian Gulf, fighting piracy in the Indian Ocean | 0:08:27 | 0:08:31 | |
and protecting territories as far away as the Falkland Islands. | 0:08:31 | 0:08:36 | |
And as HMS Dragon is welcomed into active service, | 0:08:36 | 0:08:39 | |
I've no doubt she will prove a valuable asset. | 0:08:39 | 0:08:43 | |
May your joint endeavours to uphold the high traditions | 0:08:43 | 0:08:45 | |
of the Royal Navy in the service of Her Majesty the Queen | 0:08:45 | 0:08:49 | |
be crowned with success and happiness. | 0:08:49 | 0:08:52 | |
On right. Quick, march! | 0:08:52 | 0:08:54 | |
Having seen its nautical present, I want to find out about | 0:09:00 | 0:09:04 | |
Portsmouth's maritime and railway past | 0:09:04 | 0:09:06 | |
from local historian Nick Hewitt. | 0:09:06 | 0:09:09 | |
-Nick, great to see you. -Good to meet you, Michael. | 0:09:09 | 0:09:12 | |
How far does the Royal Navy history go back in Portsmouth? | 0:09:12 | 0:09:16 | |
When did it establish its connections? | 0:09:16 | 0:09:18 | |
You have the Navy Royal in the Medieval period, | 0:09:18 | 0:09:21 | |
and basically this harbour has been the home of the Royal Navy | 0:09:21 | 0:09:25 | |
since then, right through to the hey day, you could argue, | 0:09:25 | 0:09:28 | |
which was the 18th century, and the great wars | 0:09:28 | 0:09:31 | |
with Revolutionary and then Napoleonic France. | 0:09:31 | 0:09:34 | |
It was the Royal Navy that saved our bacon in 1805. | 0:09:34 | 0:09:38 | |
Absolutely, countless times. | 0:09:38 | 0:09:40 | |
This was the ship that led the way - HMS Victory. | 0:09:40 | 0:09:43 | |
Celebrated as Nelson's flagship at Trafalgar. | 0:09:43 | 0:09:45 | |
Is it true that Victory is still a commissioned ship | 0:09:45 | 0:09:48 | |
in the Royal Navy? | 0:09:48 | 0:09:49 | |
She is indeed. She is the flagship of the flag office of Portsmouth. | 0:09:49 | 0:09:53 | |
She still flies the White Ensign and she's still part, | 0:09:53 | 0:09:56 | |
the heart, really, of the Royal Navy's presence here in Portsmouth. | 0:09:56 | 0:09:59 | |
1805 - Trafalgar. The only thing wrong with that date | 0:09:59 | 0:10:02 | |
-is it's pre-railways. -It is indeed. | 0:10:02 | 0:10:05 | |
-Can you show me some railway history please? -I think we certainly can. | 0:10:05 | 0:10:08 | |
Leaving Admiral Nelson's Victory behind, Nick promises to take me | 0:10:10 | 0:10:14 | |
even higher up the echelons of 19th-century society. | 0:10:14 | 0:10:17 | |
This really says railway shed, | 0:10:18 | 0:10:21 | |
but it doesn't look like a Royal Navy piece of equipment. | 0:10:21 | 0:10:24 | |
The clue's in the crown on the top of it. | 0:10:24 | 0:10:26 | |
South Railway Jetty was constructed for Queen Victoria in 1888, | 0:10:26 | 0:10:30 | |
and what this did was provide her with a private railway line | 0:10:30 | 0:10:34 | |
from the main line over at Portsmouth harbour | 0:10:34 | 0:10:36 | |
that would take her seamlessly right to the royal yacht. | 0:10:36 | 0:10:39 | |
And to celebrate Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee in 1897, | 0:10:41 | 0:10:44 | |
and Queen Elizabeth's coronation in 1953, | 0:10:44 | 0:10:48 | |
thousands of ordinary day trippers also took trains | 0:10:48 | 0:10:51 | |
to Portsmouth to witness the fleet's royal reviews. | 0:10:51 | 0:10:54 | |
Paint me a picture of what Portsmouth was like | 0:10:56 | 0:10:58 | |
at the heyday of the Royal Navy and the heyday of the railways. | 0:10:58 | 0:11:02 | |
Railways are the lifeblood of the dockyard, | 0:11:02 | 0:11:05 | |
so the whole site is criss-crossed with railway tracks. | 0:11:05 | 0:11:08 | |
Everything that's required to sustain the fleet | 0:11:08 | 0:11:10 | |
has to arrive by railway, whether that's the men to crew the ships, | 0:11:10 | 0:11:13 | |
the ammunition, the food. | 0:11:13 | 0:11:14 | |
All the provisions, everything, all the output of Victorian Britain | 0:11:14 | 0:11:18 | |
at its heyday comes here, and then passes on to the ships | 0:11:18 | 0:11:21 | |
of the Royal Navy, and then out to the empire around the world. | 0:11:21 | 0:11:25 | |
Why does Portsmouth become so important to the Royal Navy? | 0:11:25 | 0:11:28 | |
The remarkable thing about Portsmouth is | 0:11:28 | 0:11:30 | |
it is a huge natural harbour. | 0:11:30 | 0:11:32 | |
To get a proper sense of its scale, Nick's arranged for us | 0:11:35 | 0:11:37 | |
to sail out into the harbour whose size impressed Bradshaw. | 0:11:37 | 0:11:41 | |
My Bradshaw's Guide says of Portsmouth, | 0:11:44 | 0:11:48 | |
"Situated on the western side of the island of Portsea | 0:11:48 | 0:11:51 | |
"at the mouth of the bay termed Portsmouth Harbour, | 0:11:51 | 0:11:54 | |
"Portsmouth Harbour ranks among first in Great Britain | 0:11:54 | 0:11:57 | |
"for its capaciousness, depth, and security." | 0:11:57 | 0:12:00 | |
Those are the qualities that make it so important. | 0:12:00 | 0:12:03 | |
You only have to look around you to see what you've got is | 0:12:03 | 0:12:06 | |
this immense body of calm water surrounded on three sides by land, | 0:12:06 | 0:12:09 | |
so you can't attack this by sea from | 0:12:09 | 0:12:11 | |
any other direction apart from that way | 0:12:11 | 0:12:13 | |
and that way is protected across the end by the Isle of Wight. | 0:12:13 | 0:12:17 | |
You've got a completely defensive location. | 0:12:17 | 0:12:20 | |
I'm seeing around us these enormous forts. Who built these things? | 0:12:20 | 0:12:24 | |
These were built in 1860. | 0:12:24 | 0:12:26 | |
They were commissioned by the Palmerston government. | 0:12:26 | 0:12:29 | |
They were commissioned because there was a fear at the time | 0:12:29 | 0:12:32 | |
about the growing strength of the French navy. | 0:12:32 | 0:12:34 | |
-Did they see action? -Not at all. This was the great irony about them. | 0:12:34 | 0:12:38 | |
They took ten years to build. | 0:12:38 | 0:12:40 | |
By the time they were built, France had been broken | 0:12:40 | 0:12:43 | |
by the Franco-Prussian war, | 0:12:43 | 0:12:45 | |
and they became known as the Palmerston Follies. | 0:12:45 | 0:12:47 | |
That is the catch of politics. | 0:12:47 | 0:12:50 | |
If you spend the money, you're criticised for waste, | 0:12:50 | 0:12:53 | |
and if you fail to spend the money, the French invade | 0:12:53 | 0:12:55 | |
and you're criticised for that. | 0:12:55 | 0:12:57 | |
On my railway journeys, I've seen many feats of Victorian engineering, | 0:12:58 | 0:13:02 | |
and although dubbed follies, these four sea forts | 0:13:02 | 0:13:06 | |
are another extraordinary example. | 0:13:06 | 0:13:08 | |
The stone foundations were hewn in quarries, transported by rail, | 0:13:08 | 0:13:12 | |
delivered by barge and manoeuvred into place by divers. | 0:13:12 | 0:13:16 | |
And once above sea level, | 0:13:16 | 0:13:17 | |
a circular railway was laid to move the builders' steam-powered crane. | 0:13:17 | 0:13:21 | |
Palmerston also built another landmark. | 0:13:23 | 0:13:26 | |
Atop Portsdown Hill, Fort Nelson was designed to defend against | 0:13:26 | 0:13:29 | |
a land invasion that also never came. | 0:13:29 | 0:13:33 | |
It's now a military museum housing more than 350 cannon. | 0:13:33 | 0:13:38 | |
Good afternoon, Michael. | 0:13:38 | 0:13:40 | |
Via its labyrinthine tunnels, | 0:13:40 | 0:13:42 | |
curator of artillery Phil Magrath is taking me | 0:13:42 | 0:13:45 | |
to the area of the fort designed to defend its ditches | 0:13:45 | 0:13:48 | |
with a series of 32 pounder, cast iron smooth bore cannon, | 0:13:48 | 0:13:52 | |
and where members of the Portsdown Artillery Volunteers | 0:13:52 | 0:13:56 | |
-demonstrate their use. -Clear! | 0:13:56 | 0:13:58 | |
What are they doing with the gun now? | 0:13:58 | 0:14:00 | |
They're going through a preparatory drill to get the gun ready | 0:14:00 | 0:14:03 | |
-to load and fire. -Clear! | 0:14:03 | 0:14:05 | |
What kind of ammunition was fired from this? | 0:14:09 | 0:14:12 | |
It's essentially a tin case containing | 0:14:12 | 0:14:14 | |
around 200 mixed metal balls of various sizes. | 0:14:14 | 0:14:18 | |
That's horrible. | 0:14:18 | 0:14:20 | |
These are really heavy and nasty, aren't they? | 0:14:20 | 0:14:22 | |
-Was this gun ever fired in anger? -As far as we know, no. | 0:14:22 | 0:14:26 | |
But we're going to hear it go 'pop'? | 0:14:26 | 0:14:28 | |
We'll hear it go 'pop' shortly(!) | 0:14:28 | 0:14:31 | |
Fire! | 0:14:33 | 0:14:34 | |
My goodness! | 0:14:36 | 0:14:37 | |
You wouldn't want to be a French invader with that going on. | 0:14:37 | 0:14:40 | |
Who could resist the opportunity | 0:14:40 | 0:14:42 | |
of firing an antique 32 pounder cannon? | 0:14:42 | 0:14:45 | |
I can't. | 0:14:45 | 0:14:46 | |
-When he gives the command, I go... -You pull. | 0:14:46 | 0:14:49 | |
You don't pull, you bring your body. | 0:14:49 | 0:14:51 | |
Fire! | 0:14:51 | 0:14:52 | |
-Oops. That's not happened. It's got to be more then? -Yes. | 0:14:54 | 0:14:57 | |
Fire! | 0:14:57 | 0:14:59 | |
Quite a responsibility, that. | 0:15:04 | 0:15:06 | |
Much as I would love to fire a few more rounds | 0:15:08 | 0:15:10 | |
at the imaginary French hoard, | 0:15:10 | 0:15:12 | |
it's time for me to leave Portsmouth | 0:15:12 | 0:15:15 | |
and start the next leg of my northbound journey, | 0:15:15 | 0:15:17 | |
across Hampshire and into Surrey. | 0:15:17 | 0:15:19 | |
As I travel up through Hampshire towards my next destination | 0:15:23 | 0:15:27 | |
of Godalming, my Bradshaw's remarks that the junction of the south coast | 0:15:27 | 0:15:31 | |
and the south western lines is at Portcreek, | 0:15:31 | 0:15:34 | |
between Havant and Cosham, | 0:15:34 | 0:15:36 | |
but it's necessary to go to Portsmouth | 0:15:36 | 0:15:39 | |
to change from one line to the other. | 0:15:39 | 0:15:42 | |
There were these two circuitous routes down to Portsmouth. | 0:15:42 | 0:15:45 | |
Naturally, the people of the city wanted a direct line, | 0:15:45 | 0:15:47 | |
and a direct line company was formed. | 0:15:47 | 0:15:50 | |
But when it started operations, | 0:15:50 | 0:15:52 | |
it had to run over the other company's railways. | 0:15:52 | 0:15:55 | |
When they first tried to operate a train, they found | 0:15:55 | 0:15:58 | |
that the South Coast Railway had put an engine in the way | 0:15:58 | 0:16:01 | |
and even dug up some of the tracks. | 0:16:01 | 0:16:03 | |
This was the so-called Battle of Havant, | 0:16:03 | 0:16:05 | |
and it illustrates how fierce competition was | 0:16:05 | 0:16:07 | |
at the height of Victorian railway mania. | 0:16:07 | 0:16:11 | |
Home to Charterhouse School, | 0:16:20 | 0:16:22 | |
Godalming, with its historic buildings | 0:16:22 | 0:16:24 | |
and attractive narrow streets, bears witness to a prosperity | 0:16:24 | 0:16:27 | |
built around the town's wool, leather and paper mills. | 0:16:27 | 0:16:30 | |
Bradshaw writes, "This town is situated on the banks of the Wey | 0:16:32 | 0:16:36 | |
"at a point where the river divides into several streams". | 0:16:36 | 0:16:39 | |
I'm meeting local historian Stephen Goddard | 0:16:39 | 0:16:43 | |
to discuss how Victorian Godalming harnessed its abundant water. | 0:16:43 | 0:16:47 | |
-Hello, Stephen. -Hello, Michael. | 0:16:48 | 0:16:50 | |
We're meeting under this delightful lamp because | 0:16:50 | 0:16:52 | |
you're going to illuminate me about Godalming's place in history. | 0:16:52 | 0:16:55 | |
It was in 1881, with the increase in the price of gas to light the town, | 0:16:55 | 0:17:00 | |
that one Mr Pullman offered the service of his water mill | 0:17:00 | 0:17:05 | |
to provide electric power to light the town - | 0:17:05 | 0:17:08 | |
in fact the very first town in the country and indeed the world. | 0:17:08 | 0:17:12 | |
It was innovative mill owner RJ Pullman who spotted | 0:17:14 | 0:17:17 | |
that if hydropower could keep his leather mill running, | 0:17:17 | 0:17:20 | |
all he needed was a dynamo and it could also light | 0:17:20 | 0:17:23 | |
Godalming's four high street lamps. | 0:17:23 | 0:17:26 | |
Because private residences were also able to purchase electric power | 0:17:26 | 0:17:29 | |
from the entrepreneur, | 0:17:29 | 0:17:31 | |
the National Grid dates its founding to the evening | 0:17:31 | 0:17:34 | |
that hydroelectricity first lit up Godalming. | 0:17:34 | 0:17:37 | |
Diarist Samuel Pepys stayed here | 0:17:40 | 0:17:42 | |
and my Bradshaw's recommends The Kings Arms. | 0:17:42 | 0:17:46 | |
At the end of a long day's travel, I'm looking forward to lights out. | 0:17:46 | 0:17:50 | |
Refreshed and ready to continue, | 0:18:00 | 0:18:01 | |
the next leg of my journey is just one stop away. | 0:18:01 | 0:18:05 | |
Guildford next, and my Bradshaw's says, | 0:18:14 | 0:18:16 | |
"The situation of the town on the banks of the Wey | 0:18:16 | 0:18:19 | |
"and spreading over the steep hill | 0:18:19 | 0:18:21 | |
"as it rises from the side of the river is particularly picturesque." | 0:18:21 | 0:18:26 | |
I associate Guildford with bowler hats, and the 7.41 to Waterloo, | 0:18:26 | 0:18:30 | |
and harrumphing letters to the Daily Telegraph, | 0:18:30 | 0:18:33 | |
but there's more to Guildford than that. | 0:18:33 | 0:18:36 | |
There's industry too. | 0:18:36 | 0:18:38 | |
Once a Saxon village, Guildford boasts a Norman castle, | 0:18:43 | 0:18:47 | |
a much more modern cathedral, and an attractive, | 0:18:47 | 0:18:50 | |
centuries old cobbled high street. | 0:18:50 | 0:18:52 | |
The town once boasted brewers and iron works, | 0:18:54 | 0:18:57 | |
and I'm meeting Andy Boulton, who works for Dennis, | 0:18:57 | 0:18:59 | |
a vehicle manufacturer in Guildford since 1895. | 0:18:59 | 0:19:03 | |
He's picking me up in a very precious and very old company asset. | 0:19:04 | 0:19:09 | |
-Good morning. -Morning. | 0:19:13 | 0:19:15 | |
-How are you? -Very good indeed. | 0:19:15 | 0:19:17 | |
What a beautiful machine. | 0:19:17 | 0:19:18 | |
BELL CLANGS | 0:19:21 | 0:19:22 | |
Andy, what is this wonderful machine? | 0:19:26 | 0:19:28 | |
This is a 1914 Dennis fire appliance. | 0:19:28 | 0:19:31 | |
We've been building fire appliances in Guildford since 1908, | 0:19:31 | 0:19:35 | |
and this is one of the earliest survivors. | 0:19:35 | 0:19:37 | |
-Not a bad turn of speed considering she's 98 years old. -Amazing. | 0:19:39 | 0:19:43 | |
At the turn of the 20th century, the Dennis factory, | 0:19:45 | 0:19:47 | |
then in the centre of town, produced cars. | 0:19:47 | 0:19:50 | |
Customers included a Brazilian viscount and a Russian duke. | 0:19:50 | 0:19:54 | |
But as automobiles were such a luxury, niche product, | 0:19:54 | 0:19:58 | |
in 1904 the firm decided to build commercial vehicles, | 0:19:58 | 0:20:01 | |
and, in 1908, fire engines. | 0:20:01 | 0:20:04 | |
The Dennis factory is now on the outskirts of Guildford, | 0:20:04 | 0:20:08 | |
and there are other relics of the company's past here too. | 0:20:08 | 0:20:11 | |
I can see, Andy, that you love your history, | 0:20:13 | 0:20:16 | |
and this vehicle's even older than the fire engine, isn't it? | 0:20:16 | 0:20:19 | |
Yeah, this is beautiful, this is a 1902 Dennis car. | 0:20:19 | 0:20:22 | |
What was the origin of vehicle manufacture here in Guildford? | 0:20:22 | 0:20:26 | |
It started really in 1895 when two brothers, | 0:20:26 | 0:20:30 | |
John Dennis and Raymond Dennis, | 0:20:30 | 0:20:32 | |
decided to set up a small bicycle shop on Guildford High Street. | 0:20:32 | 0:20:35 | |
One of them had a great idea of bolting a small petrol engine | 0:20:35 | 0:20:39 | |
onto the back end of one of their tricycles. | 0:20:39 | 0:20:42 | |
One day, I believe it was John was stopped on the street | 0:20:42 | 0:20:45 | |
by a police officer for doing what was described | 0:20:45 | 0:20:47 | |
as the ferocious speed, in the courts, | 0:20:47 | 0:20:50 | |
of 12mph, going up Guildford High Street, | 0:20:50 | 0:20:53 | |
which was quite a challenge at the time, | 0:20:53 | 0:20:55 | |
and that was publicised and sales boomed. | 0:20:55 | 0:20:58 | |
I always have to ask people whether their business | 0:20:58 | 0:21:00 | |
has ever had a railways connection. Has yours? | 0:21:00 | 0:21:03 | |
Yes, it has. During the heyday of Dennis, | 0:21:03 | 0:21:05 | |
when the factory was really the focal point of the town, | 0:21:05 | 0:21:08 | |
there was quite a substantial railhead | 0:21:08 | 0:21:11 | |
that delivered raw materials into the factory, | 0:21:11 | 0:21:14 | |
and I think probably more importantly | 0:21:14 | 0:21:16 | |
the finished goods leaving the factory off around the countryside. | 0:21:16 | 0:21:20 | |
The factory's railhead was at its busiest during the Second World War | 0:21:22 | 0:21:26 | |
when Dennis built 700 Churchill tanks, 4,500 army lorries, | 0:21:26 | 0:21:31 | |
and 3,000 carriers. | 0:21:31 | 0:21:33 | |
What is it the factory does today? | 0:21:39 | 0:21:41 | |
These days, we focus on just bus chassis, and we put the body on it | 0:21:41 | 0:21:44 | |
in one of our other factories around the rest of the UK. | 0:21:44 | 0:21:47 | |
Can Britain compete with imports? | 0:21:47 | 0:21:49 | |
The UK bus fleet is made up of about three quarters | 0:21:49 | 0:21:52 | |
British built buses. I think we should be proud of that. | 0:21:52 | 0:21:55 | |
-What about exports? -About 30% of the vehicles around us here | 0:21:55 | 0:21:59 | |
are destined to be going overseas, | 0:21:59 | 0:22:01 | |
whether it be to Hong Kong, New Zealand or North America. | 0:22:01 | 0:22:06 | |
-And where's this one destined for? -This one's destined for London. | 0:22:06 | 0:22:09 | |
Very good. We'll see it on the streets of London soon. | 0:22:09 | 0:22:12 | |
Thank you very much. | 0:22:12 | 0:22:13 | |
On my journeys, I've driven trains, cranes and automobiles, | 0:22:14 | 0:22:19 | |
but a vehicle without a body is a first. | 0:22:19 | 0:22:22 | |
And evidently takes some getting used to. | 0:22:25 | 0:22:28 | |
During my railway journeys, | 0:22:31 | 0:22:33 | |
I often visit factories that have become museums, | 0:22:33 | 0:22:36 | |
because Britain is not the manufacturing country it once was. | 0:22:36 | 0:22:40 | |
But here at Guildford, they've been producing vehicles | 0:22:40 | 0:22:42 | |
during three centuries, and they still are. | 0:22:42 | 0:22:45 | |
With the coming of the railways, Londoners built luxurious homes | 0:22:51 | 0:22:55 | |
here in Surrey to escape the hustle and bustle of the city. | 0:22:55 | 0:22:58 | |
'I'm on my way to Gomshall, a village six miles east | 0:23:00 | 0:23:03 | |
'of Guildford on the line towards Dorking.' | 0:23:03 | 0:23:05 | |
As industrialisation progressed, | 0:23:15 | 0:23:17 | |
many Victorians yearned for a simpler life, | 0:23:17 | 0:23:20 | |
and in particular in their homes. | 0:23:20 | 0:23:23 | |
In an age of mass production, they sought inspiration from the artisans | 0:23:23 | 0:23:27 | |
and wanted to have hand made goods. | 0:23:27 | 0:23:30 | |
I'm on my way to such a house. | 0:23:30 | 0:23:33 | |
Arts and crafts, a movement based on simple design and natural materials, | 0:23:45 | 0:23:49 | |
flourished in the late 19th century, | 0:23:49 | 0:23:52 | |
and I'm in Gomshall to visit Goddards, | 0:23:52 | 0:23:55 | |
a house whose Tudor pretensions, sweeping planes of roof tiles | 0:23:55 | 0:23:59 | |
and dalliances with form are typical of it. | 0:23:59 | 0:24:02 | |
Goddards was built by a philanthropic local businessman | 0:24:02 | 0:24:05 | |
as a rest home for women of poor means. | 0:24:05 | 0:24:09 | |
The architect was Sir Edwin Lutyens, famous for the Cenotaph, | 0:24:09 | 0:24:13 | |
the Viceroy's House in Delhi, | 0:24:13 | 0:24:15 | |
and countless other early to mid-20th century country houses | 0:24:15 | 0:24:19 | |
and war memorials. | 0:24:19 | 0:24:22 | |
It's now owned by The Landmark Trust, | 0:24:22 | 0:24:23 | |
and its historian, Caroline Stanford, is going to show me round. | 0:24:23 | 0:24:28 | |
-Caroline. -Hello. -Lovely to see you. Thank you. | 0:24:28 | 0:24:31 | |
Absolutely stunning. | 0:24:34 | 0:24:37 | |
Do I smell Victorian money here? | 0:24:37 | 0:24:39 | |
You do. Ironically, you smell Victorian shipping money, | 0:24:39 | 0:24:42 | |
not railway money. | 0:24:42 | 0:24:44 | |
This house was built by Frederick Mirrielees, | 0:24:44 | 0:24:46 | |
who made his money from the Castle Union shipping line, | 0:24:46 | 0:24:49 | |
so quite a different kind of transport in fact. | 0:24:49 | 0:24:51 | |
And he used an architect very well known to us? | 0:24:51 | 0:24:54 | |
He did. He used a young, relatively young still, | 0:24:54 | 0:24:58 | |
Edward Lutyens, who was 29 at the time. | 0:24:58 | 0:25:00 | |
And Lutyens followed the arts and crafts tradition, did he not? | 0:25:00 | 0:25:04 | |
Yes, indeed. I think all his work is infused with that fantastic | 0:25:04 | 0:25:07 | |
sense of materials and good workmanship | 0:25:07 | 0:25:10 | |
that so characterised the arts and crafts movement. | 0:25:10 | 0:25:14 | |
So, taking in this room, what should | 0:25:14 | 0:25:16 | |
I look for to understand the passion for arts and crafts? | 0:25:16 | 0:25:18 | |
You can see the timber framing, you can see the massive beams and braces | 0:25:18 | 0:25:23 | |
and trusses all pegged. | 0:25:23 | 0:25:25 | |
You see the little wooden pegs in the beams. | 0:25:25 | 0:25:27 | |
The brick vaulting over the fireplace, for example, | 0:25:27 | 0:25:30 | |
the little coves and vaults over the fireplace, | 0:25:30 | 0:25:33 | |
not exactly medieval at all really, | 0:25:33 | 0:25:35 | |
and it's clearly modern brickwork, | 0:25:35 | 0:25:37 | |
but nevertheless there's this lovely warm, reassuring use of materials. | 0:25:37 | 0:25:41 | |
The door furniture - the hinges, the latches, the locks on the doors | 0:25:41 | 0:25:44 | |
are all beautifully made, very honestly made out of forged iron. | 0:25:44 | 0:25:50 | |
So this is the drawing room. | 0:25:50 | 0:25:52 | |
What does this tell us | 0:25:53 | 0:25:55 | |
that the new men of wealth were looking for in their home? | 0:25:55 | 0:25:58 | |
I think they were looking for nostalgic comfort, | 0:25:58 | 0:26:00 | |
and you can imagine them hopping on the train at Charing Cross | 0:26:00 | 0:26:04 | |
at the end of a long week and coming down to these leafy lanes | 0:26:04 | 0:26:07 | |
looking forward to a good cigar by a comfortable fireside. | 0:26:07 | 0:26:10 | |
The gardens of the house are also in the arts and crafts style. | 0:26:12 | 0:26:17 | |
Lutyens collaborated on their construction with Gertrude Jekyll, | 0:26:17 | 0:26:20 | |
arguably the most influential gardener of the time. | 0:26:20 | 0:26:24 | |
The gardens are a wonderful example of the kind of harmony | 0:26:24 | 0:26:28 | |
between gardening and architecture that Lutyens and Jekyll | 0:26:28 | 0:26:31 | |
contrived between them. | 0:26:31 | 0:26:33 | |
You see how Jekyll has used the old materials again, | 0:26:33 | 0:26:38 | |
the lovely stone, the local Surrey stone slabs, the brick paths. | 0:26:38 | 0:26:41 | |
And the pond really is a classic Gertrude Jekyll feature. | 0:26:41 | 0:26:46 | |
She was very concerned with practicality. | 0:26:46 | 0:26:49 | |
The rain water drains off the roofs into the dipping pond | 0:26:49 | 0:26:53 | |
and then you can dip your watering can in easily and water your plants. | 0:26:53 | 0:26:56 | |
And here, a very lovely aspect. | 0:26:58 | 0:27:00 | |
Yes. We look out over a ha-ha into the ancient woodland, | 0:27:00 | 0:27:04 | |
and Sir Frederick Mirrielees could be lord of all he surveyed. | 0:27:04 | 0:27:07 | |
If, like me, Sir Frederick or the ladies of poor means | 0:27:09 | 0:27:12 | |
who stayed here had need of shelter from the rain, | 0:27:12 | 0:27:15 | |
they would surely have headed inside, | 0:27:15 | 0:27:17 | |
to the most surprising room in the house. | 0:27:17 | 0:27:21 | |
And here's the skittle alley. | 0:27:21 | 0:27:22 | |
-May I have a go? -Of course. | 0:27:25 | 0:27:27 | |
The original bowls await you. | 0:27:27 | 0:27:29 | |
This house has bowled me over! | 0:27:34 | 0:27:36 | |
A beautiful Victorian house like Goddards | 0:27:40 | 0:27:43 | |
was the product of our national prosperity, | 0:27:43 | 0:27:46 | |
based on industry and empire. | 0:27:46 | 0:27:48 | |
Bradshaw's Britain had the wealth to defend its possessions | 0:27:48 | 0:27:52 | |
by creating the largest fleet the world had ever seen. | 0:27:52 | 0:27:56 | |
After centuries of service, | 0:27:56 | 0:27:58 | |
still today the Royal Navy stands ready to do its duty. | 0:27:58 | 0:28:01 | |
'On the next leg of my journey, | 0:28:05 | 0:28:07 | |
'I'll get close to some precious Victorian botany...' | 0:28:07 | 0:28:10 | |
So here you can see a lovely specimen of a maidenhair fern, | 0:28:10 | 0:28:13 | |
collected by Charles Darwin on the famous voyage of The Beagle. | 0:28:13 | 0:28:17 | |
It's quite moving to see this stuff. | 0:28:17 | 0:28:19 | |
'I'll play croquet...' | 0:28:19 | 0:28:21 | |
You can not be serious! | 0:28:21 | 0:28:23 | |
This is where I get a hammering. | 0:28:23 | 0:28:25 | |
'In Surrey, I'll visit a surprising 19th-century place of worship.' | 0:28:28 | 0:28:32 | |
But it's not only the first UK mosque, | 0:28:32 | 0:28:35 | |
it's the first mosque to be built in Northern Europe. | 0:28:35 | 0:28:38 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:28:45 | 0:28:48 |