Birmingham to Worcester Great British Railway Journeys


Birmingham to Worcester

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'For Victorian Britons, George Bradshaw was a household name.

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'At a time when railways were new,

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'Bradshaw's guidebook inspired them to take to the tracks.'

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I'm using a Bradshaw's Guide to understand how trains transformed

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Britain, its landscape,

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its industry, society and leisure time.

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As I crisscross the country 150 years later,

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it helps me to discover the Britain of today.

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I'm embarking on a journey that will take me

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from England's Midlands to moorlands,

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beginning in a region that produced reforms and new ideas

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alongside manufactured goods.

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Bradshaw will how me to understand how the trains spread not only

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the products of industry but arts and education too.

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'This week I'm starting my journey in Britain's second-largest city,

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'before following the path of the River Severn south past

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'great cathedrals to the ancient spas and ports of the south-west,

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'ending up in one of Britain's glorious national parks.

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'Today's leg starts in the mighty metropolis of Birmingham

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'and continues to the carpet town of Kidderminster,

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'before arriving in the Roman city of Worcester.

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'On this journey I have a blast in Brum...

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BLOWS WHISTLE

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Brilliant. That's the sound of the railways, isn't it?

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'..pay homage to a magnificent organ that inspired a great composer...

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The city fathers were very proud of this instrument

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so it was a feather in their cap that somebody like Mendelssohn

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should deign to play on it.

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'..and get a dose of quack doctors and their bizarre remedies.'

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There's one here called simply The Ills Of Humanity.

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And Pink Pills For Pale People.

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My journey will begin in Birmingham.

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My guidebook remarks that "it's the great centre of the metal trades,

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"scarcely a street being without its manufactory,

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"carried on in small workshops."

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I'm on my way and, as they say,

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every rail journey begins with a whistle.

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'On its journey from Saxon village to vast conurbation,

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'Birmingham underwent its biggest growth spurge

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'during the 19th century, when the population reached

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'half a million and it was granted city status by Queen Victoria.

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'It's success as a manufacturing centre was thanks in large part

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'to its transport systems, the network of canals

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'and Birmingham New Street station, which opened in 1854.

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'As I arrive, it's being restructured

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'so I'm escaping the noise and dust

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'by heading to an area with more sparkle.'

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Birmingham's Jewellery Quarter was known traditionally

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as the City of 1,000 Trades

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and even today it is the UK's largest centre

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for the manufacture and retail of jewellery.

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It now has its own railway station on the Birmingham Metro

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and it's come to my ears that they make whistles here,

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which is worth a peep.

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'J Hudson and Company is the maker of the world-famous Acme whistle

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'and has been manufacturing whistles here in the Jewellery Quarter

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'since 1884.

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'Joseph Hudson, the founder, was originally a farm worker

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'from Derbyshire who, like many others during the Industrial

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'Revolution, moved to Birmingham where he trained as a toolmaker.

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'An inventor at heart,

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'he tinkered away in the converted washroom of his back-to-back terraced house

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'where he came up with the idea for a particularly powerful whistle.

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'To find out more, I'm going to meet Holly Occhipinti,

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'the company's development manager and resident historian.'

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I imagine that whistles have been around for ever and a day,

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so how was it that Joseph Hudson made a business of it in the 19th century?

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Joseph Hudson managed to spot an opportunity in the public sector,

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where a form of communication was needed over long distances

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and so he thought about sound and how sound travels

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and he came up with the whistle.

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'Until then, whistles had been used as toys or musical instruments

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'but Hudson spotted that a modernised version could appeal

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'to a whole new market.'

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And I suppose one of the early clients would have been the police force.

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They were indeed. Here we actually have an 1883 Metropolitan police whistle.

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This whistle is still produced in exactly the same way

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-and is used by the police force today.

-That's extraordinary.

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Now what characteristics do you need in a police whistle?

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It needs to be very easy to blow

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because of picturing the Bobby on the beat chasing after criminals.

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It needs to travel over long distances

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and be heard over vehicle noise.

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Well, I just walked up your stairs, so I'm a little bit out of breath.

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BLOWS WHISTLE

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Splendid sound, isn't it?

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Now, what about my favourite subject, the railways.

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Did they always know that they needed whistles?

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Joseph Hudson certainly made sure in 1860 they knew they needed whistles.

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Here we actually have an original that would've been

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handmade by Joseph Hudson himself in his workshop in 1860.

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This is a buffalo horn stationmaster's whistle.

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BLOWS WHISTLE.

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-Very shrill for a station.

-It certainly would startle you.

-Mm.

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Afraid that people might fall onto the tracks in fright,

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Hudson produced a lower tone for his railway whistle

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by making the cavity larger.

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The Thunderer whistle was born.

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WHISTLE

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-And so that's an improvement, is it, that one?

-This is.

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This is a Thunderer from 1884

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and is now the most popular stationmaster's whistle used today.

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-We've produced around ten million.

-Ten million whistles?

-Ten million.

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Let's give it a go.

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BLOWS WHISTLE

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Brilliant. That's the sound of the railways, isn't it?

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'The manufacturing process of the Thunderer has barely

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'changed in 100 years

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'and it remains the most used whistle in the world,

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'beloved of sports referees, partygoers and, of course,

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'railway officials.'

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So, I want to make a whistle and we start by stamping it.

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-The name of the company there.

-Yeah.

-And what do you put on the side here?

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We do a Great Western Railway, East African Railway

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and we can pretty much put anyone else's name on it.

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-Maybe my name today?

-Your name, yeah? We could do.

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-So what do I do? Pop it in there?

-Just place it in.

-Yeah.

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-And give it a stamp?

-Yeah.

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'After the two halves of the whistle have been assembled,

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'it's then soldered together...

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-Now, can you see the solder just starting to melt on the side?

-I can.

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-I can see that.

-Just give it a slight shake and tilt it up.

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'..before being polished back to a high shine.'

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-Already beginning to look very nice.

-Yep.

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Ah, that's lovely.

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-Colin.

-Hi, Michael.

-Hello. Good to see you.

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My whistle is taking shape but it still doesn't sound right.

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BLOWS WHISTLE

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-That's not going to start a train, is it?

-No, not really.

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-So we need to put something in it.

-Yes.

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-A pea.

-A cork.

-A cork.

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-Is that what's steaming away over there?

-Yes, it is.

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So what you need to do is, we take the dish,

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put them in the dish because it's really hot in there, to be honest.

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Why do you heat these corks, Colin?

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Just to make them soft and it's just easier for them

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to actually push into the whistle itself.

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So with any luck that is going to go in there.

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There we are. It's inside.

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The 9.47 is about to go.

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BLOWS WHISTLE

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Brilliant.

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-Now I need to find a real train. Thank you, Colin.

-Thank you.

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-All the best.

-Thank you, Michael.

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'But before I head back to the station,

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'I'm following my Bradshaw's past the 20th century brutalism

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'and the heavy Victorian civic architecture

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'to one of Birmingham's most remarkable buildings,

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'which has, at its heart, a rare treasure.'

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"The Town Hall at the top of New Street," says Bradshaw's,

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"is a beautiful Grecian temple

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"surrounded by rows of Corinthian pillars 40-feet high.

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"It is a splendid public hall at one end of which

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"is the most famous organ, one of the finest in Europe."

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'Hoping for a glimpse of this marvellous to instrument,

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'I'm going inside the grand auditorium to meet Richard Hawley,

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'head of artistic programming.'

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Richard, this fine building is called the Town Hall

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but I think it was never intended to be the seat of city government, was it?

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No, not at all.

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It was envisaged to be the home of the music festival,

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the Birmingham Triennial Festival,

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that had been going since the late 1700s,

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mainly to generate funds to build a hospital

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and the spaces that the festival was using never quite matched

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the aspirations of the people organising the festival,

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and they championed for a specific purpose-built hall to be built,

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which is why we have Town Hall.

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Is it successful musically? Does it produce a fine acoustic?

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It's a fantastic acoustic.

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It was recognised immediately as one of the significant halls in Europe.

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'With a world-class venue at their disposal,

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'the organisers of the Triennial Music Festival

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'set out to attract excellence.

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'One of the most popular composers of the day

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was the German Felix Mendelssohn,

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'a leading light of the Romantic movement,

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'whose triumphant Wedding March has been played

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'for many a happy bride and groom.'

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Joseph Moore, who was one of the leading figures behind the Triennial Festival,

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contacted Mendelssohn the instant this building was open,

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and Mendelssohn came to the festival in 1837,

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and over the course of the next decade

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he was convinced to premiere a major work,

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a commission of Elijah,

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which took place here in 1846.

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And was he swayed at all by the presence of the organ,

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which according to Bradshaw's, was very, very exceptional?

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He was. We are actually fortunate for his insights.

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You can see that the organ is set back into an alcove.

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That was Mendelssohn's idea.

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The console juts out at Mendelssohn's suggestion,

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so that whatever organist is performing can hear

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the acoustics properly,

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so Mendelssohn is very much part of this building.

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'The last Triennial Festival took place

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'just before the outbreak of the First World War

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'but the organ is still regularly played by Birmingham city organist,

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'Thomas Trotter.'

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Bradshaw's is quite enthusiastic about this organ,

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saying that it contains 4,000 pipes acted upon by four sets of keys.

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Now, here we seem to have four sets of keys,

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so what's the number of pipes now?

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It's grown a bit since then.

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It's now 6,000, so it's almost double the size it was in the 1860s.

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But the city fathers were very proud of this instrument

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so it was a feather in their cap

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that somebody like Mendelssohn should deign to play on it.

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We know that the third time that he was here

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was when he came to conduct premiere of his oratorio Elijah.

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And how does Elijah go?

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Well, it so happens I have a little bit of it here

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so I'll give you a taste.

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This is the final fugue, the sort of culmination of the whole piece.

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It's called Lord, Our Creator, How Excellent Thy Name.

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'Only a year after the premiere of Elijah,

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'Felix Mendelssohn died at the age of 38.

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'But his great oratorio was played at every subsequent festival,

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'sustaining the link between the composer and Birmingham Town Hall.'

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You have set the Grecian temple trembling

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and me a-tingling.

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Organ, organist and Town hall at their finest.

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Thank you very much.

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'It's time to bid farewell to the city

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'and to make my way to Birmingham's Snow Hill station.'

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My next stop will beat Kidderminster, which the guidebook tells me

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"is celebrated for its manufactures, especially carpets,

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"which have promoted the trade, wealth and population of the town."

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I'm travelling there post-haste to discover a native of the town

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who left his stamp on the world.

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'Not every visitor to Kidderminster

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'shared Bradshaw's enthusiasm for the place.

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'The famous architectural commentator Sir Nikolaus Pevsner,

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'writing in the mid-20th century,

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'dismissed it as devoid of visual pleasure.

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'But it's old carpet factories

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'and fine churches give a strong sense of its Victorian prosperity,

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'during which era Kidderminster's most famous son

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'had a brilliant idea that revolutionised the Royal Mail.'

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This is Sir Rowland Hill.

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There had been a postage service before him but people paid for

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their letters on collection,

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according to the distance that they had travelled.

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His innovation was that there should be a flat rate

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and that it should be prepaid with a postage stamp.

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The first bore the head of Queen Victoria at the age of 21

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and were known as Penny Blacks.

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For the sheer simplicity of the idea,

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it had all the others licked.

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'I'll wait for the morning to slice open his story.'

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'The next day dawns bright and clear and with a spring in my step

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'I'm reporting for duty at Kidderminster's delivery office.'

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-Good morning. Are you Rollo?

-I certainly am.

-I'm Michael.

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-How do you do?

-Pleased to meet you.

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-So, it's sorting the morning's post?

-Yes.

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Is there anyway I can give you a hand with that?

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-You're welcome to if you want to.

-All right. What do you have to do?

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First of all, it's post-coded so obviously you've got coded areas.

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-This is a DY10 frame.

-So now what do I do with the DY10s?

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-That one there is Cookley and rural, that hole there.

-Cookley, rural.

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-Again rural. That's a rural area, Churchill.

-Churchill.

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-Vicar Street.

-That's Superdrug in the town centre.

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How long does it take you to learn all this stuff, Rollo?

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Everybody says, that works here, the best way to learn the sorting

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-is by going out and doing every delivery.

-Ah, yes.

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And that's how you pick it up.

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Mind you, I'm born and bred Kidderminster so you know.

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'The mail that Rollo and I are sorting has been through a machine

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'that recognises postcodes and groups the letters accordingly.

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'After Sir Rowland introduced uniform penny postage in 1840,

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'the volume of mail doubled every 20 years until 1920,

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'when a staggering six billion items passed through the postal system.'

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Last night I visited the statue of Rowland Hill.

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-Is he a bit of a hero of the postmen?

-Yeah.

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I mean, born and bred in Kidderminster in Blackwell Street.

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I know his remains, now, are in Westminster Abbey,

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which says a lot for the guy.

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Can you imagine the situation before his innovation,

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that people used to go to their local post office,

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pick up the letter,

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pay for it according to what distance it had travelled.

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And, apparently, sometimes people used to put the message

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on the outside of the envelope

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and once they'd read the message they'd say,

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-"Oh, no, I don't want that. I'm not going to pay for it."

-Blimey.

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THEY LAUGH

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'The next stage of the process is delivery.

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'Rollo has invited me to join him on his round,

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'provided that I'm properly attired.'

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Rollo, do you ever go to the railway station to pick up mail these days?

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No, that's a long time ago.

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They did when I first started on the job about, erm...

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Well, I've been doing the job 32 years.

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You used to have to meet the mail bags,

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pick them up in the old cloth bags

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and I still think that was a quicker system than the roads.

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'The first mail train started running in 1838

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'with postal workers onboard sorting the letters in transit.

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'The railways transformed the speed

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'and efficiency of the Royal Mail service,

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'crisscrossing the country while the nation slept

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'and inspiring the great WH Auden to write one of his most famous poems.'

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"This is the Night Mail crossing the border,

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"Bringing the cheque and the postal order,

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"Letters for the rich, letters for the poor,

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"The shop at the corner and the girl next door,

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"Pulling up Beattock, a steady climb,

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"The gradient's against but she's on time."

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NEWSREEL ANNOUNCER: Thousands are still asleep,

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dreaming of terrifying monsters.

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'The last mail train was withdrawn in 2004

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'but no substitute has been found for the postman delivering to your home.'

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Here you go, Michael.

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-The first one I've got is number four.

-That's it.

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'At the height of the Victorian period,

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'there was a vast number of uniformed postman

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'working in the United Kingdom.'

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No dogs at that one so we're all right.

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'In London there could be up to 12 deliveries a day,

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'allowing correspondents to exchange letters back and forth within hours.'

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Morning. I'll pop it in the letterbox for you.

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-Morning, Rollo. All right?

-Yeah.

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-Do I know you from somewhere?

-Yes, you do, I think.

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-Where's that then?

-I was a train driver.

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I picked you up at Derby one day and brought you down to Burton on Trent.

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-How nice to see you again.

-Nice to see you again.

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-So have you left the railway?

-Three years ago, yeah.

0:20:150:20:18

-What was it, the journey with me that made you give it up?

-No, no.

0:20:180:20:22

-Very nice to see you again.

-Nice to see you again.

0:20:220:20:24

'Prepaid, flat-rate postage

0:20:240:20:27

'revolutionised the United Kingdom mail service

0:20:270:20:29

'and the idea then spread around the world.

0:20:290:20:32

'A Victorian concept that remains sacrosanct to this day.'

0:20:320:20:36

Well, Rollo, I'll never forget your name because it reminds me

0:20:360:20:39

of Sir Rowland Hill,

0:20:390:20:40

but I believe it is a serious crime to hold up the Royal Mail.

0:20:400:20:44

I will hold you up no longer. There are your letters.

0:20:440:20:46

Thanks ever so much, Michael. It's been a pleasure.

0:20:460:20:49

-A great pleasure for me.

-Thank you.

0:20:490:20:51

'Handing back my cap and bag.

0:20:530:20:54

'it's time to return to the day job,

0:20:540:20:57

'which means embarking on the next stage of my journey.

0:20:570:21:00

'I'm boarding a train that will take me south through

0:21:000:21:02

'the West Midlands to Worcester.'

0:21:020:21:04

'The Victorian age was a time of great progress,

0:21:060:21:08

'not least in the medical profession

0:21:080:21:10

'and Bradshaw's notes that Worcester was well provided for.'

0:21:100:21:14

"I'm told that there are several charitable institutions here

0:21:150:21:19

"amply endowed, such as Queen Hospital for 29 women,

0:21:190:21:24

"St Oswald's for 28 women,

0:21:240:21:26

"Judge Barkley's for 12 persons

0:21:260:21:29

"and the General Infirmary."

0:21:290:21:31

I'd like to investigate how Victorians improved

0:21:310:21:35

and certified the standards of doctors and their remedies.

0:21:350:21:39

'Alighting at Worcester Foregate Street,

0:21:430:21:46

'I emerge in the heart of the old city.

0:21:460:21:48

'With my Bradshaw's to guide me

0:21:480:21:50

'I take in the magnificent brick-built Guildhall...

0:21:500:21:53

'..the 17th century almshouses...

0:21:570:21:58

..and, towering over everything,

0:22:000:22:03

the breathtaking Saxon cathedral.

0:22:030:22:05

'But my focus is on Victorian Worcester

0:22:090:22:12

'and specifically matters medical.

0:22:120:22:15

'So I'm heading to the university campus,

0:22:150:22:17

'which used to be the old Worcester Infirmary,

0:22:170:22:20

'to meet Caroline Rance, who is an expert on quackery.'

0:22:200:22:23

-Hello, Caroline.

-Hello.

0:22:250:22:27

We meet in somewhat macabre surroundings.

0:22:270:22:30

Do you think in the 19th century patients were quite

0:22:300:22:32

susceptible to false remedies and false doctors?

0:22:320:22:36

They were, much like they are today, in fact.

0:22:360:22:38

There was a range of different quack remedies, as they were called,

0:22:380:22:42

and sometimes people were what we might now consider gullible,

0:22:420:22:46

but also, in a lot of occasions, it was quite a logical choice to make

0:22:460:22:49

if you wanted to go and buy a patent remedy

0:22:490:22:52

from a newspaper advert or from a chemist.

0:22:520:22:55

That was possibly much cheaper than going to see a doctor

0:22:550:22:58

and so it was a reasonable choice for many people.

0:22:580:23:01

'Quacks got their name from an old Dutch word "kwakzalver",

0:23:030:23:07

'meaning a hawker of salve or ointment.

0:23:070:23:10

'In the Middle Ages "to quack" meant to shout,

0:23:100:23:13

'which was how many of these salesmen

0:23:130:23:15

'advertised their wares in the marketplace.'

0:23:150:23:18

Although there were some that were absolutely fraudulent,

0:23:180:23:20

there were others that it did just about manage to stay within

0:23:200:23:23

the law and one of those was a company called Sequah in 1887.

0:23:230:23:28

This was started by somebody called William Hartley,

0:23:280:23:30

who was born in 1857 in Liverpool,

0:23:300:23:33

but he pretended to be an American

0:23:330:23:35

who was bringing over the big entertaining style

0:23:350:23:39

American medical shows to the UK.

0:23:390:23:41

He would initially just go around with his wagon.

0:23:410:23:44

He would do very entertaining shows that involved drawing people's

0:23:440:23:47

teeth very quickly.

0:23:470:23:48

At one point he claimed to be able to draw eight teeth in a minute.

0:23:480:23:52

And he would get the crowd all very excited and on his side

0:23:520:23:55

and he would then use that to do a sales pitch to sell his medicines.

0:23:550:24:00

'Hartley relied on showmanship

0:24:000:24:02

'and evoked the Wild West to whip up enthusiasm

0:24:020:24:05

for Sequah's cures.

0:24:050:24:07

'Others trod an even more morally dubious line.'

0:24:070:24:11

I see there an advertisement for "drunkenness cured",

0:24:110:24:14

which sounds very promising.

0:24:140:24:17

This sort of advert was published in the very

0:24:170:24:19

early 20th century by a company based in London.

0:24:190:24:22

The idea was that people within the family of an addict

0:24:220:24:27

would be able to use these powders.

0:24:270:24:29

They would slip it into his coffee or into his whisky

0:24:290:24:31

and that was all done in secret.

0:24:310:24:33

He was not to supposed to know that he was being treated.

0:24:330:24:36

So it doesn't exactly match modern ethical standards?

0:24:360:24:39

No and in terms of informed consent of the patient,

0:24:390:24:42

it certainly doesn't.

0:24:420:24:43

'Eventually the general medical profession asserted itself

0:24:430:24:47

'to put down the charlatans and their snake oil remedies.

0:24:470:24:51

'The leader of the campaign was Worcester surgeon

0:24:510:24:53

'and philanthropist Charles Hastings.

0:24:530:24:56

'Just down the corridor is the place where it all started

0:24:560:24:59

'and where I'm meeting Andrew Dearden of the British Medical Association.'

0:24:590:25:04

-Andrew.

-Good morning, sir.

0:25:040:25:06

So, what is the significance of the old boardroom of the Infirmary in Worcester?

0:25:060:25:11

Well, this is where, in 1832,

0:25:110:25:13

Sir Charles Hastings led a meeting of about 50 doctors of his day

0:25:130:25:16

and established the Provincial Medical and Surgical Association

0:25:160:25:20

that later became the British Medical Association.

0:25:200:25:23

One of his concerns was that lots of doctors were working independently

0:25:230:25:26

but individually and what he wanted to do was to bring them together

0:25:260:25:29

to share and to expand their medical knowledge and information.

0:25:290:25:32

And I expect the oratory was pretty fine on that occasion.

0:25:320:25:36

"Gentleman, you will, at any rate, admit, that the objects

0:25:360:25:39

"I have thus hastily introduced to the notice of the meeting,

0:25:390:25:42

"are worthy of deep meditation.

0:25:420:25:46

"I cannot help indulging the delightful thought

0:25:460:25:50

"that the Association must have a direct tendency

0:25:500:25:53

"to extend the empire of knowledge

0:25:530:25:56

"and to increase our power over disease."

0:25:560:26:00

'The new Association worked towards the Medical Act of 1858,

0:26:020:26:06

'which commenced the end of quackery.'

0:26:060:26:08

What that did for the very first time

0:26:100:26:12

was to create a medical register.

0:26:120:26:14

So, when someone went to medical school, passed as a doctor,

0:26:140:26:18

they had to register themselves with the General Medical Council,

0:26:180:26:21

so any member of the public could see who was actually qualified

0:26:210:26:25

and could call themselves a doctor.

0:26:250:26:27

The other thing the British Medical Association did

0:26:270:26:29

was to publish a book in 1909 called Secret Remedies,

0:26:290:26:33

where many of the lotions and potions of the day

0:26:330:26:35

were examined by a well-known chemist

0:26:350:26:37

so that the public could actually see what it was that they were buying and taking.

0:26:370:26:41

Mother Seigel's Curative Syrup.

0:26:410:26:43

There's one here called simply The Ills of Humanity.

0:26:450:26:49

And Pink Pills For Pale People.

0:26:490:26:53

They don't sound altogether convincing, do they?

0:26:530:26:56

Not particularly.

0:26:560:26:57

I have to say the ingredients were not particularly convincing either.

0:26:570:27:01

So, it all began with 50 people. Where have you got to now?

0:27:010:27:05

Well, the British Medical Association now has over 156,000 members

0:27:050:27:09

both here in the UK and overseas.

0:27:090:27:11

-You couldn't fit all of them in this room, could you?

-Not any more.

0:27:110:27:15

The thunderous sound of the organ in Birmingham Town Hall

0:27:210:27:26

reminds me that the city deserves to be known as much for its music

0:27:260:27:30

as for its metal bashing.

0:27:300:27:33

I thoroughly enjoyed my time delivering letters

0:27:330:27:36

as a tribute to Sir Rowland Hill.

0:27:360:27:39

Other eminent Victorians made improvements to the

0:27:390:27:42

standard of delivering health care,

0:27:420:27:45

giving quack doctors and quack remedies the whistle.

0:27:450:27:49

BLOWS WHISTLE

0:27:490:27:50

'On the next part of my journey I come eye-to -eye with a needle...

0:27:580:28:02

That one has got four punches in. Two big ones, two small ones.

0:28:020:28:06

They are eyes of the needle.

0:28:060:28:08

'..get to grips with some of Gloucester's finest...

0:28:080:28:11

That's a lovely feel, isn't it? Being in contact with that gorgeous cheese.

0:28:110:28:15

Glorious Gloucester!

0:28:150:28:17

'..and raise the roof in tribute to one of Britain's great composers.'

0:28:180:28:23

# And did those feet in ancient time... #

0:28:230:28:29

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