Browse content similar to Liverpool to Dolgarrog. Check below for episodes and series from the same categories and more!
Line | From | To | |
---|---|---|---|
For Edwardian Britons, a Bradshaw's was an indispensable guide | 0:00:04 | 0:00:08 | |
to a railway network at its peak. | 0:00:08 | 0:00:11 | |
I'm using an early 20th century edition | 0:00:13 | 0:00:16 | |
to navigate a vibrant and optimistic Britain | 0:00:16 | 0:00:19 | |
at the height of its power and influence in the world. | 0:00:19 | 0:00:22 | |
But a nation wrestling with political, social and industrial | 0:00:24 | 0:00:29 | |
unrest at home. | 0:00:29 | 0:00:30 | |
The part of my journey across northern England | 0:00:53 | 0:00:56 | |
concludes in Liverpool, where I'll admire the architecture. | 0:00:56 | 0:01:00 | |
The Victorians had drawn inspiration for their buildings | 0:01:00 | 0:01:03 | |
from the Middle-Ages, | 0:01:03 | 0:01:06 | |
reviving a Gothic style in impressive structures | 0:01:06 | 0:01:09 | |
such as St Pancras Station in London. | 0:01:09 | 0:01:12 | |
Would the Edwardians follow in their paths? | 0:01:12 | 0:01:15 | |
I'll then move on to Wales, | 0:01:15 | 0:01:17 | |
and ask how the principality felt about its identity, | 0:01:17 | 0:01:22 | |
absorbed in a United Kingdom at the time when Ireland | 0:01:22 | 0:01:26 | |
was moving, it seemed, towards home rule. | 0:01:26 | 0:01:29 | |
My journey started in East Yorkshire, | 0:01:36 | 0:01:39 | |
and carried on to the historic city of York. | 0:01:39 | 0:01:42 | |
From there, I went inland across the industrial heartlands of West | 0:01:42 | 0:01:47 | |
and South Yorkshire. | 0:01:47 | 0:01:48 | |
I'm now on my way to Liverpool, from where I'll head to Wales, | 0:01:48 | 0:01:53 | |
tucking its northern coast to finish in Caernarfon. | 0:01:53 | 0:01:58 | |
I start this leg of my journey in the city of Liverpool. | 0:02:00 | 0:02:03 | |
I'll then visit the suburban town of Maghull, | 0:02:03 | 0:02:06 | |
before crossing the Welsh border to reach Abergele, | 0:02:06 | 0:02:10 | |
and I'll finish in the Welsh mountains in Dolgarrog. | 0:02:10 | 0:02:13 | |
Today, I take a rail trip down my own memory lane. | 0:02:15 | 0:02:19 | |
I had this of very one when I was a child. | 0:02:19 | 0:02:22 | |
This was my starter set. | 0:02:22 | 0:02:24 | |
Hear of an Edwardian aristocrat | 0:02:24 | 0:02:26 | |
whose roses by any other name would smell as sweet. | 0:02:26 | 0:02:29 | |
They turned out to be named after people that the Countess knew. | 0:02:29 | 0:02:35 | |
And I learn to catch the next wave in Snowdonia. | 0:02:35 | 0:02:38 | |
Another wave coming! | 0:02:38 | 0:02:40 | |
My Bradshaw's reveals that, at the beginning of the 20th century, | 0:02:53 | 0:02:56 | |
you could sail from Liverpool to New York and Canada, | 0:02:56 | 0:03:00 | |
South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, | 0:03:00 | 0:03:03 | |
China and Japan. | 0:03:03 | 0:03:06 | |
The city had been getting richer from shipping for many decades. | 0:03:06 | 0:03:09 | |
In the Georgian period, | 0:03:09 | 0:03:11 | |
its picturesque hills rising above the Mersey estuary | 0:03:11 | 0:03:15 | |
had sprouted long, elegant terraces of merchant houses. | 0:03:15 | 0:03:20 | |
In the Edwardian era it was still constructing, | 0:03:20 | 0:03:23 | |
adding to its stock of striking commercial and public buildings. | 0:03:23 | 0:03:28 | |
Liverpool's port was founded by King John in 1207. | 0:03:44 | 0:03:48 | |
By the time that it celebrated its 700th anniversary, | 0:03:48 | 0:03:52 | |
the Edwardian city was at the centre of seven miles of docks | 0:03:52 | 0:03:56 | |
extending along the River Mersey. | 0:03:56 | 0:03:58 | |
Over the last 100 years, | 0:03:58 | 0:04:00 | |
the city has been renowned for its vibrancy. | 0:04:00 | 0:04:04 | |
During a couple of phases of my life, | 0:04:04 | 0:04:06 | |
I felt the magnetism of Liverpool. | 0:04:06 | 0:04:08 | |
My first employer was a shipping company, | 0:04:08 | 0:04:11 | |
located in one of these | 0:04:11 | 0:04:12 | |
magnificent early 20th century office buildings. | 0:04:12 | 0:04:15 | |
And then, much later, when I had ministerial responsibility | 0:04:15 | 0:04:19 | |
for urban regeneration, | 0:04:19 | 0:04:21 | |
I met the wonderful Dean of the Anglican Cathedral, | 0:04:21 | 0:04:24 | |
who used the prestige of the Church to build housing and a hospital | 0:04:24 | 0:04:29 | |
to help to revitalise the city. | 0:04:29 | 0:04:31 | |
And, whenever I return here, | 0:04:31 | 0:04:34 | |
I'm reminded of moments in my life that are important to me. | 0:04:34 | 0:04:38 | |
It's a real pleasure to return to Liverpool's Anglican Cathedral. | 0:04:43 | 0:04:48 | |
It's the largest cathedral in the United Kingdom, | 0:04:48 | 0:04:51 | |
but it was still a building site at the time of my Bradshaw's. | 0:04:51 | 0:04:54 | |
Canon Val Jackson is archivist here. | 0:04:55 | 0:04:58 | |
Val, am I right in saying that, at the end of the 19th century, | 0:04:58 | 0:05:01 | |
Liverpool has an Anglican bishop, but not a Cathedral worth the name? | 0:05:01 | 0:05:06 | |
Not a cathedral worth the name, no. | 0:05:06 | 0:05:08 | |
There was St Peter's Pro-Cathedral, which was very small and very dark. | 0:05:08 | 0:05:11 | |
There wasn't enough space to hold a big civic service. | 0:05:11 | 0:05:16 | |
So, Bishop Chavasse and his committee | 0:05:16 | 0:05:18 | |
wanted somewhere that was worthy of the second city of the Empire. | 0:05:18 | 0:05:21 | |
In charge of the diocese at the time, | 0:05:23 | 0:05:26 | |
Bishop Chavasse made plans for a new place of worship at the top | 0:05:26 | 0:05:30 | |
of St James's mount, visible from everywhere, | 0:05:30 | 0:05:33 | |
and launched an open competition, | 0:05:33 | 0:05:35 | |
calling for a 20th century design of cathedral. | 0:05:35 | 0:05:39 | |
The competition was won by a 22-year-old, | 0:05:39 | 0:05:42 | |
who had never designed a church or a cathedral, | 0:05:42 | 0:05:45 | |
called Giles Gilbert Scott. | 0:05:45 | 0:05:47 | |
Was Giles Gilbert Scott a devout Anglican? | 0:05:47 | 0:05:50 | |
No, he was from a family of Roman Catholics, | 0:05:50 | 0:05:52 | |
which was a very brave decision to appoint him, | 0:05:52 | 0:05:56 | |
because Liverpool at the time was at the height of sectarian difficulties. | 0:05:56 | 0:06:00 | |
People weren't allowed to marry in mixed marriages, | 0:06:00 | 0:06:04 | |
schools didn't have mixed relationships, | 0:06:04 | 0:06:06 | |
Bishop Chavasse had the vision to try and join the two groups | 0:06:06 | 0:06:10 | |
of Christians together in the city. | 0:06:10 | 0:06:12 | |
Giles Gilbert Scott came from a family of architects. | 0:06:16 | 0:06:19 | |
His grandfather, George Gilbert Scott, | 0:06:19 | 0:06:22 | |
designed St Pancras Railway Station in London. | 0:06:22 | 0:06:25 | |
But, because of the young man's lack of experience, | 0:06:25 | 0:06:28 | |
a mentor was appointed, | 0:06:28 | 0:06:30 | |
a seasoned church architect, George Frederick Bodley. | 0:06:30 | 0:06:34 | |
The partnership was unhappy. | 0:06:34 | 0:06:36 | |
Gilbert Scott was considering resignation | 0:06:36 | 0:06:39 | |
when Bodley died in 1907, | 0:06:39 | 0:06:41 | |
giving him a free rein. | 0:06:41 | 0:06:43 | |
He started to apply his vision to the Lady Chapel, | 0:06:43 | 0:06:47 | |
which was then under construction. | 0:06:47 | 0:06:49 | |
Welcome to the Lady Chapel of the cathedral, | 0:06:50 | 0:06:52 | |
which is quite different from the main space. | 0:06:52 | 0:06:55 | |
Here we have one of the original drawings signed by Scott and Bodley, | 0:06:55 | 0:06:59 | |
and this, of course, | 0:06:59 | 0:07:00 | |
was designed when he was still under Bodley's mentorship. | 0:07:00 | 0:07:03 | |
And this is what should have been the original design | 0:07:03 | 0:07:06 | |
with four lights in the windows, | 0:07:06 | 0:07:07 | |
but as you can see now, there are just two lights in each window. | 0:07:07 | 0:07:11 | |
So he's made them longer and more elegant. | 0:07:11 | 0:07:13 | |
And put in more plain glass to let more light through. | 0:07:13 | 0:07:16 | |
Liverpool was a very industrial city at the time, | 0:07:16 | 0:07:19 | |
so there was a lot of smoke and pollution. | 0:07:19 | 0:07:21 | |
Did he make many other changes? | 0:07:21 | 0:07:23 | |
Yes, having won the competition with this design, | 0:07:23 | 0:07:25 | |
for two towers for the cathedral, | 0:07:25 | 0:07:28 | |
when he had a free rein, he realised he was better having a central tower | 0:07:28 | 0:07:33 | |
and making the whole cathedral a great space. | 0:07:33 | 0:07:36 | |
Maybe it's just that I'm used to it, but actually what we have today, | 0:07:36 | 0:07:39 | |
it seems to me, is vastly superior to that. | 0:07:39 | 0:07:42 | |
Absolutely. This was his finest achievement. | 0:07:42 | 0:07:45 | |
After changing the face of Liverpool, | 0:07:45 | 0:07:48 | |
Gilbert Scott went on to design the red telephone box, | 0:07:48 | 0:07:52 | |
which remains iconic today. | 0:07:52 | 0:07:54 | |
Liverpool's Catholic community built its own cathedral. | 0:07:56 | 0:08:00 | |
Despite its futuristic look, | 0:08:00 | 0:08:02 | |
it was completed 11 years before its Anglican equivalent. | 0:08:02 | 0:08:07 | |
I'm now travelling on Merseyrail's Ormskirk line out to Maghull, | 0:08:32 | 0:08:36 | |
to the suburbs of Liverpool, | 0:08:36 | 0:08:38 | |
to see how Edwardians spent their time at home | 0:08:38 | 0:08:41 | |
when they had a moment for pleasure and play. | 0:08:41 | 0:08:44 | |
Maghull has a particular significance | 0:08:58 | 0:09:01 | |
in the history of model railways, and in my life. | 0:09:01 | 0:09:05 | |
-Les! -Good morning, Michael, welcome to Maghull! | 0:09:05 | 0:09:08 | |
Thank you. | 0:09:08 | 0:09:10 | |
I've arranged to meet modern railway enthusiast Les French | 0:09:10 | 0:09:14 | |
to track this story. | 0:09:14 | 0:09:15 | |
It starts with a man whose name I knew from a very early age. | 0:09:15 | 0:09:19 | |
Les, the blue plaque says it, | 0:09:19 | 0:09:21 | |
Frank Hornby, Toy Manufacturer. | 0:09:21 | 0:09:24 | |
But what was the background of this man? | 0:09:24 | 0:09:26 | |
Frank came from quite humble beginnings, | 0:09:26 | 0:09:28 | |
and he was a clerk in his father's business, but he had an idea, | 0:09:28 | 0:09:33 | |
in his own words, on a train journey. | 0:09:33 | 0:09:35 | |
On Christmas Eve he saw a train, | 0:09:35 | 0:09:37 | |
and realised that, with very simple parts, he could reproduce that train | 0:09:37 | 0:09:41 | |
as a toy for his children. | 0:09:41 | 0:09:43 | |
He said that was when the idea of Meccano was born. | 0:09:43 | 0:09:47 | |
Meccano, I'd always thought this was an Italian name, | 0:09:47 | 0:09:51 | |
How did it become Meccano? | 0:09:51 | 0:09:53 | |
It was initially known as "mechanics made easy", | 0:09:53 | 0:09:56 | |
which in itself was quite a mouthful, | 0:09:56 | 0:09:58 | |
but he had an idea that if you came up with a name | 0:09:58 | 0:10:01 | |
that was pronounceable in any language, | 0:10:01 | 0:10:03 | |
it would help export sales. | 0:10:03 | 0:10:04 | |
So, he took "make" and "know". | 0:10:04 | 0:10:08 | |
Make something, know how it was made, | 0:10:08 | 0:10:11 | |
and "make" and "know" became Meccano. | 0:10:11 | 0:10:13 | |
The tools were extraordinarily simple, weren't they? | 0:10:13 | 0:10:16 | |
Very. Pre-drilled strips, axles, pulleys, | 0:10:16 | 0:10:19 | |
maybe a wee bit of string to make a crane. | 0:10:19 | 0:10:22 | |
But it was not a cheap toy. | 0:10:22 | 0:10:24 | |
In 1901, it cost seven shillings and sixpence, | 0:10:24 | 0:10:27 | |
which was half a week's wages for your average man. | 0:10:27 | 0:10:29 | |
-And the business was quite successful? -Quite exceptionally so. | 0:10:29 | 0:10:32 | |
The largest toy company the world has ever known. | 0:10:32 | 0:10:34 | |
At some point, the brand name Hornby gets attached to model railways. | 0:10:34 | 0:10:39 | |
When did that happen? | 0:10:39 | 0:10:40 | |
Around about 1920, when he developed the 0-gauge railways, | 0:10:40 | 0:10:44 | |
which were originally clockwork, made of tin plate. | 0:10:44 | 0:10:47 | |
After that, they made them electric | 0:10:47 | 0:10:49 | |
and the rest, as they say, is history. | 0:10:49 | 0:10:51 | |
Within a decade, Hornby's model trains outsold Meccano. | 0:10:54 | 0:10:58 | |
Today, vintage Meccano and Hornby toys are highly prized. | 0:10:58 | 0:11:02 | |
The Frank Hornby Heritage Centre in Maghull holds a fine collection. | 0:11:02 | 0:11:07 | |
Les, this is amazing. | 0:11:07 | 0:11:09 | |
What an extraordinary display of vintage toys, Meccano. | 0:11:09 | 0:11:14 | |
It's our way of commemorating our most famous resident. | 0:11:14 | 0:11:17 | |
The prime part of our collection is actually this, | 0:11:17 | 0:11:20 | |
which is the very first set that Frank Hornby made. | 0:11:20 | 0:11:23 | |
And, in fact, it's "Mechanics Made Easy", before it became Meccano, | 0:11:23 | 0:11:27 | |
around about 1901, 1902. | 0:11:27 | 0:11:29 | |
And this is kind of, I think, | 0:11:29 | 0:11:31 | |
the very heights that the model train reached, I mean, | 0:11:31 | 0:11:34 | |
this is just a superb piece of engineering. | 0:11:34 | 0:11:37 | |
And, at the other end of the scale, | 0:11:37 | 0:11:38 | |
this was a cheapie, because I had this very one when I was a child. | 0:11:38 | 0:11:43 | |
This was my starter set. | 0:11:43 | 0:11:44 | |
So, you know, a few straights, a few curves, | 0:11:44 | 0:11:47 | |
a very basic little locomotive and its tender, and... | 0:11:47 | 0:11:49 | |
..later I got this one, slightly more sophisticated, | 0:11:49 | 0:11:53 | |
a tank engine with three wagons in the dark red. | 0:11:53 | 0:11:56 | |
You know, I could not have described them to you, but seeing them, | 0:11:56 | 0:12:00 | |
I know exactly that those were the ones that I had when I was a kid. | 0:12:00 | 0:12:03 | |
Of course you kept them boxed, in immaculate condition, didn't you? | 0:12:03 | 0:12:07 | |
I wish I had! | 0:12:07 | 0:12:08 | |
Les, this is really superb, I mean, this is a dream. | 0:12:14 | 0:12:18 | |
Look at the quality of this rolling stock, | 0:12:18 | 0:12:21 | |
look at how beautiful it all is. | 0:12:21 | 0:12:23 | |
I could spend all day here. | 0:12:23 | 0:12:25 | |
I mean, Frank Hornby gave so much to generations of children. | 0:12:25 | 0:12:30 | |
Back in Liverpool, | 0:12:54 | 0:12:56 | |
I seek an evening drink at the Philharmonic Dining Rooms. | 0:12:56 | 0:13:00 | |
Hello, good evening. | 0:13:02 | 0:13:03 | |
-Hello, there. -Can I have a half, please? -Yeah, course. | 0:13:03 | 0:13:06 | |
You've got a lovely looking pub here. | 0:13:06 | 0:13:08 | |
-Why, thank you. -It dates back to when? | 0:13:08 | 0:13:10 | |
1898, it was built. | 0:13:10 | 0:13:12 | |
Most of it is Grade II and Grade I listed. | 0:13:12 | 0:13:15 | |
The gents' toilets, in particular, are the only functioning | 0:13:15 | 0:13:17 | |
Grade I listed toilets in the country that we know of. | 0:13:17 | 0:13:20 | |
Wonderful! Well, what a great place to end the day, thank you so much. | 0:13:20 | 0:13:23 | |
-No worries, thank you. -Good health. | 0:13:23 | 0:13:25 | |
Completed shortly before Edward VII became king, | 0:13:27 | 0:13:31 | |
the pub took its design cues | 0:13:31 | 0:13:33 | |
from the saloons of the grand ocean liners that sailed from Liverpool. | 0:13:33 | 0:13:37 | |
The gents' really are magnificent. | 0:13:39 | 0:13:41 | |
There are antique tiles, and on the floors and on the walls, | 0:13:41 | 0:13:45 | |
there are mosaics. | 0:13:45 | 0:13:46 | |
Here are windows devoted to Baden Powell, | 0:13:46 | 0:13:50 | |
and to Field Marshal Lord Roberts, | 0:13:50 | 0:13:52 | |
both Edwardian heroes, and veterans of the Boer War. | 0:13:52 | 0:13:55 | |
And here are rooms devoted to Brahms and Liszt, | 0:13:55 | 0:13:59 | |
who were not Edwardians, but in Cockney slang, | 0:13:59 | 0:14:02 | |
their names imply inebriation. | 0:14:02 | 0:14:05 | |
It's a new morning on the tracks. | 0:14:30 | 0:14:32 | |
This time, I'm crossing the Mersey on my way to Chester. | 0:14:32 | 0:14:37 | |
I have a connection at this Grade II listed station | 0:14:37 | 0:14:40 | |
to reach my next destination, | 0:14:40 | 0:14:42 | |
Abergele & Pensarn in Wales. | 0:14:42 | 0:14:45 | |
Queen Victoria's oldest son, Bertie, | 0:14:52 | 0:14:54 | |
was Prince of Wales for very nearly 60 years, | 0:14:54 | 0:14:57 | |
until her death, and his accession to the throne as Edward VII | 0:14:57 | 0:15:01 | |
in 1901. | 0:15:01 | 0:15:03 | |
Wales has lost much of the railway network that it had | 0:15:03 | 0:15:07 | |
at the time of my Bradshaw's. | 0:15:07 | 0:15:08 | |
Lines that served coal-rich valleys in the south | 0:15:08 | 0:15:11 | |
had been torn up. | 0:15:11 | 0:15:13 | |
And here, in the north on this line, we've lost Sandycroft, | 0:15:13 | 0:15:17 | |
Queen's Ferry, Connah's Quay, | 0:15:17 | 0:15:19 | |
Bagillt, Holywell, Mostyn, | 0:15:19 | 0:15:22 | |
Talacre and Foryd. | 0:15:22 | 0:15:24 | |
But, even 100 years ago, | 0:15:24 | 0:15:26 | |
they were passed unnoticed by the Irish Mail | 0:15:26 | 0:15:29 | |
and the Irish Night Express | 0:15:29 | 0:15:31 | |
as they swept by. | 0:15:31 | 0:15:33 | |
Abergele & Pensarn is on the North Wales coastline... | 0:15:39 | 0:15:42 | |
Thank you, bye-bye. | 0:15:42 | 0:15:45 | |
..which links London with Dublin, via Holyhead. | 0:15:45 | 0:15:48 | |
At the time of my Bradshaw's, | 0:15:56 | 0:15:57 | |
Edwardian travellers would have encountered a rising tide | 0:15:57 | 0:16:00 | |
of Welsh nationalism. | 0:16:00 | 0:16:02 | |
and they would have marvelled at the sight of Gwrych Castle. | 0:16:02 | 0:16:06 | |
-Hello. -Hello. | 0:16:06 | 0:16:08 | |
Mark Baker is founder of its preservation trust. | 0:16:08 | 0:16:11 | |
Mark, it's a most romantic ruin. | 0:16:11 | 0:16:14 | |
How old is the castle? | 0:16:14 | 0:16:16 | |
Most of what you see is dating to around about 1810, so it's Georgian. | 0:16:16 | 0:16:19 | |
However, there are parts which date to around about 1485, | 0:16:19 | 0:16:23 | |
so very late medieval. | 0:16:23 | 0:16:25 | |
Which family was the house associated with? | 0:16:25 | 0:16:28 | |
It was the Lloyds of Gwrych, | 0:16:28 | 0:16:29 | |
and they were descended from the noble tribes of Wales, | 0:16:29 | 0:16:33 | |
and they trace their ancestry right back to the fall of Rome | 0:16:33 | 0:16:37 | |
when tribes moved down from the north of England | 0:16:37 | 0:16:40 | |
and settled in this area. | 0:16:40 | 0:16:41 | |
In the period that I'm following at the moment, | 0:16:41 | 0:16:43 | |
the Edwardian period, who would've been here? | 0:16:43 | 0:16:45 | |
Winifred Bamford Hesketh. | 0:16:45 | 0:16:47 | |
She was the sole heiress of the estate, | 0:16:47 | 0:16:49 | |
and she married the 12th Earl of Dundonald. | 0:16:49 | 0:16:53 | |
What sort of a woman was Winifred? | 0:16:53 | 0:16:55 | |
Strong, very determined, and incredibly passionate about Wales. | 0:16:55 | 0:17:00 | |
So, from here, she's tried to get the Welsh agenda | 0:17:00 | 0:17:03 | |
at the top of the list at Number Ten. | 0:17:03 | 0:17:06 | |
The Countess and her husband were in an arranged marriage. | 0:17:06 | 0:17:10 | |
And, although she bore him five children, | 0:17:10 | 0:17:13 | |
he lived in his native Scotland, | 0:17:13 | 0:17:15 | |
while she stayed at Gwrych Castle. | 0:17:15 | 0:17:16 | |
She saw herself as the last of the Lloyds of Gwrych. | 0:17:17 | 0:17:21 | |
How did the castle come to be a ruin? | 0:17:21 | 0:17:23 | |
The castle was bought in the late 1980s by an American, | 0:17:23 | 0:17:26 | |
who was an absentee owner, | 0:17:26 | 0:17:29 | |
New Age travellers moved in, and asset strippers, | 0:17:29 | 0:17:32 | |
and they systematically dismantled the interior of the castle, | 0:17:32 | 0:17:36 | |
and sold it. | 0:17:36 | 0:17:38 | |
So, the main building is literally just a ruin. | 0:17:38 | 0:17:41 | |
And you are trying to do something about it? | 0:17:41 | 0:17:44 | |
20 years ago, when I was 12, | 0:17:44 | 0:17:45 | |
I was passing the castle every day to and from school, | 0:17:45 | 0:17:49 | |
and I would see the buildings slowly becoming more and more deteriorated | 0:17:49 | 0:17:54 | |
and derelict. | 0:17:54 | 0:17:56 | |
So I decided to set up the castle trust, and since then, | 0:17:56 | 0:18:00 | |
I've been campaigning for the restoration. | 0:18:00 | 0:18:03 | |
A 12-year-old set up a castle trust? | 0:18:03 | 0:18:05 | |
I know it's, well... At the time, it was quite natural for me, | 0:18:05 | 0:18:10 | |
but when one looks back, it is rather odd. | 0:18:10 | 0:18:13 | |
So, you know, it's my life. | 0:18:13 | 0:18:16 | |
It's absolutely extraordinary. | 0:18:16 | 0:18:18 | |
Congratulations. What is it you had to do here? | 0:18:18 | 0:18:21 | |
So, the gardens were completely derelict. | 0:18:21 | 0:18:24 | |
This was a forest. | 0:18:24 | 0:18:25 | |
We carried out a systematic archaeological excavation | 0:18:25 | 0:18:29 | |
and we found some of the plant tags, | 0:18:29 | 0:18:31 | |
and they turned out to be named after people that the Countess knew. | 0:18:31 | 0:18:36 | |
So there was a set of roses. | 0:18:36 | 0:18:38 | |
One was her hairdresser, one was her costumier, | 0:18:38 | 0:18:41 | |
and she had them planted along the walls. | 0:18:41 | 0:18:43 | |
They were climbing roses, so we've had them put back here. | 0:18:43 | 0:18:46 | |
And what hope for the buildings? | 0:18:46 | 0:18:48 | |
Well, we're in the process of negotiating a sale to the trust | 0:18:48 | 0:18:53 | |
from the current owners. | 0:18:53 | 0:18:55 | |
So our plan will be to restore it back to its former glory. | 0:18:55 | 0:18:59 | |
That's fantastic. I'm lost in admiration. | 0:18:59 | 0:19:02 | |
The trust has already obtained a lease, | 0:19:02 | 0:19:05 | |
enabling Mark and a team of volunteers to begin restoration | 0:19:05 | 0:19:08 | |
of the gardeners' tower. | 0:19:08 | 0:19:11 | |
Welcome to the countess' writing room. | 0:19:11 | 0:19:14 | |
So, this was one of her private spaces at the castle, | 0:19:14 | 0:19:18 | |
and she would sit in here, write her letters, her diaries, | 0:19:18 | 0:19:21 | |
and, on that fire, is where her husband, after her death, | 0:19:21 | 0:19:27 | |
burned all of her private papers. | 0:19:27 | 0:19:29 | |
Why on earth would he do that? | 0:19:29 | 0:19:31 | |
He was very angry. | 0:19:31 | 0:19:33 | |
And felt that she had disinherited him from what he was owed. | 0:19:33 | 0:19:38 | |
She had left the castle to the royal family on her death. | 0:19:38 | 0:19:43 | |
She knew that he would try to destroy the vision of the Lloyds, | 0:19:43 | 0:19:47 | |
which was the castle, and that's what he set out to do. | 0:19:47 | 0:19:50 | |
Why are you so devoted to the castle, and also the countess, | 0:19:50 | 0:19:54 | |
the last of the Lloyds? | 0:19:54 | 0:19:56 | |
With the castle, it's somewhere that I see, | 0:19:56 | 0:20:00 | |
really regenerating, not only the buildings, but the local area. | 0:20:00 | 0:20:05 | |
And I think the Countess was such an enigma. | 0:20:05 | 0:20:08 | |
She's not been celebrated, | 0:20:08 | 0:20:10 | |
and that's part of the legacy of her husband, | 0:20:10 | 0:20:12 | |
trying to erase her from history. | 0:20:12 | 0:20:15 | |
My journey continues west, | 0:20:44 | 0:20:46 | |
along the coast before a change of trains at Llandudno Junction. | 0:20:46 | 0:20:50 | |
I then divert south, towards the Snowdonia National Park. | 0:21:02 | 0:21:06 | |
I'll leave this train at Dolgarrog. | 0:21:11 | 0:21:13 | |
At the time of my Bradshaw's, | 0:21:13 | 0:21:15 | |
it was not yet important enough to have a railway station. | 0:21:15 | 0:21:19 | |
But, a new industrial process electrified the place | 0:21:19 | 0:21:22 | |
and set it on its metal. | 0:21:22 | 0:21:24 | |
-Hello. -Hello. How are you? -Very well, thank you. -Good, good. | 0:21:28 | 0:21:31 | |
-It's one of the loveliest lines. -Yeah. -Do you enjoy it? | 0:21:31 | 0:21:34 | |
It gets really busy in the summer. Foreigners. | 0:21:34 | 0:21:36 | |
Foreigners includes the English, we don't know how to pronounce them! | 0:21:36 | 0:21:39 | |
-Dolgarrog, right? -Yes, this will be your stop now. -All right. | 0:21:39 | 0:21:42 | |
-Bye-bye then. -Lovely, thanks very much. | 0:21:47 | 0:21:49 | |
Situated in the Conwy Valley, | 0:21:49 | 0:21:52 | |
Dolgarrog takes its name from a mythical Welsh creature, Y Garrog. | 0:21:52 | 0:21:56 | |
At the time of my Bradshaw's, | 0:21:58 | 0:22:00 | |
a new industrial process kept the town busy. | 0:22:00 | 0:22:04 | |
Aluminium smelting. | 0:22:04 | 0:22:05 | |
The works that were here have now closed. | 0:22:06 | 0:22:09 | |
Thank you very much. | 0:22:17 | 0:22:18 | |
Hywel Thomas is among the last generation to have worked there. | 0:22:18 | 0:22:23 | |
-Hywel, hello. -Hello Michael. | 0:22:23 | 0:22:25 | |
Good to see you. | 0:22:25 | 0:22:27 | |
-Thank you for choosing such a cosy pub. Cheers. -Cheers. | 0:22:28 | 0:22:32 | |
Aluminium. Why was it so important to us? | 0:22:34 | 0:22:37 | |
Well, aluminium was regarded as this new wonder metal. | 0:22:37 | 0:22:41 | |
It's an extremely light metal, | 0:22:41 | 0:22:43 | |
and it can be made to be quite strong | 0:22:43 | 0:22:46 | |
by adding other elements to it. | 0:22:46 | 0:22:49 | |
Does it occur naturally? | 0:22:49 | 0:22:50 | |
It's the most abundant element on the earth's crust, | 0:22:50 | 0:22:53 | |
but it doesn't occur in its natural metallic form. | 0:22:53 | 0:22:57 | |
So it's in clay. | 0:22:57 | 0:23:00 | |
It's in the slate waste in Blaenau Ffestiniog. | 0:23:00 | 0:23:03 | |
The metal must be recovered from its ore by heating and melting, | 0:23:03 | 0:23:07 | |
or smelting. | 0:23:07 | 0:23:08 | |
Aluminium was expensive to process, | 0:23:08 | 0:23:11 | |
but the development of a new cheaper method | 0:23:11 | 0:23:14 | |
allowed for larger scale production, | 0:23:14 | 0:23:16 | |
requiring lots of electricity. | 0:23:16 | 0:23:19 | |
It's about 18,000 kilowatt hours per tonne of aluminium produced. | 0:23:19 | 0:23:24 | |
-That sounds like a lot. -It is a lot. | 0:23:24 | 0:23:27 | |
Why did they choose the hills of North Wales for the factory? | 0:23:27 | 0:23:30 | |
Dolgarrog is on very high ground, | 0:23:30 | 0:23:33 | |
and an average rainfall of three metres per annum. | 0:23:33 | 0:23:36 | |
There was abundance of water, basically, | 0:23:36 | 0:23:38 | |
and hydroelectric power was the perfect means | 0:23:38 | 0:23:41 | |
to reduce alumina to aluminium. | 0:23:41 | 0:23:45 | |
In the early 1900s, | 0:23:46 | 0:23:48 | |
a lightweight metal like aluminium | 0:23:48 | 0:23:50 | |
was ideal to feed growing industries, especially aviation. | 0:23:50 | 0:23:54 | |
It also served to create lighter and more efficient household items, | 0:23:56 | 0:24:01 | |
such as saucepans and frying pans, | 0:24:01 | 0:24:03 | |
previously made from copper and cast iron. | 0:24:03 | 0:24:06 | |
The factory expanded rapidly, | 0:24:06 | 0:24:09 | |
and would go on to play a vital role in aircraft production | 0:24:09 | 0:24:13 | |
during the Second World War. | 0:24:13 | 0:24:15 | |
At its height, 800 people worked at the works. | 0:24:15 | 0:24:19 | |
Whole families worked there. | 0:24:19 | 0:24:21 | |
Was it a tough place, the factory? Dirty, noisy, hot? | 0:24:21 | 0:24:25 | |
It was heavy industry. There was no respite at night, | 0:24:25 | 0:24:27 | |
and there were complaints after the company closed | 0:24:27 | 0:24:30 | |
that people couldn't get to sleep because it was too quiet. | 0:24:30 | 0:24:33 | |
And it closed in...? | 0:24:34 | 0:24:36 | |
2007, precisely 100 years from when it opened in 1907. | 0:24:36 | 0:24:42 | |
It was a sad time. | 0:24:42 | 0:24:43 | |
The water that was so useful to the aluminium smelting works | 0:24:45 | 0:24:50 | |
has now been harnessed in a very different way. | 0:24:50 | 0:24:54 | |
It's being used to create the longest man-made surfable waves | 0:24:54 | 0:24:58 | |
in the world. | 0:24:58 | 0:25:00 | |
What a bizarre sight! | 0:25:03 | 0:25:05 | |
A surfer racing towards me in a place where there used to be | 0:25:05 | 0:25:08 | |
an aluminium factory! | 0:25:08 | 0:25:10 | |
What a fantastic example of regeneration | 0:25:10 | 0:25:13 | |
in a derelict industrial area. | 0:25:13 | 0:25:14 | |
You may say that a surf beach looks out of place in the Welsh hills, | 0:25:14 | 0:25:18 | |
but so did an aluminium factory. | 0:25:18 | 0:25:21 | |
The best way to understand the thrill of the waves | 0:25:24 | 0:25:27 | |
is to take to the water. | 0:25:27 | 0:25:29 | |
Hello! | 0:25:29 | 0:25:31 | |
My instructor today is Welsh national surfing champion, | 0:25:31 | 0:25:34 | |
Jo Dennison. | 0:25:34 | 0:25:35 | |
So how do we begin? | 0:25:35 | 0:25:37 | |
I'll start by just telling you how we get waves here. | 0:25:37 | 0:25:40 | |
So we've got a big wave foil. | 0:25:40 | 0:25:42 | |
It's shaped like a snowplough, | 0:25:42 | 0:25:43 | |
so the snowplough gets pulled through the water | 0:25:43 | 0:25:46 | |
and we get waves either side of the pier. | 0:25:46 | 0:25:49 | |
And what do I need to know? | 0:25:49 | 0:25:50 | |
OK, so lying on the board. | 0:25:50 | 0:25:52 | |
You want your toes just on the tail here. | 0:25:52 | 0:25:54 | |
OK, perfect. Just look forward. | 0:25:56 | 0:25:58 | |
Always looking where you want to go. | 0:25:58 | 0:25:59 | |
Arch your back a little bit, so you can see the wave coming. | 0:25:59 | 0:26:03 | |
Look over your shoulder. Then you're going to start to paddle. | 0:26:03 | 0:26:07 | |
As it gets closer, you're going to go faster. | 0:26:07 | 0:26:10 | |
And then you should catch the wave, | 0:26:10 | 0:26:12 | |
-hands under the armpits and lean back. -Right. -Good. | 0:26:12 | 0:26:15 | |
Wow! | 0:26:17 | 0:26:18 | |
Another wave coming! | 0:26:25 | 0:26:27 | |
Ooh! | 0:26:35 | 0:26:36 | |
Cracking wave! | 0:26:39 | 0:26:41 | |
-That was a good one! -Nice one! | 0:26:55 | 0:26:57 | |
That was great, Jo, thank you! | 0:26:59 | 0:27:01 | |
What a thrill, eh? | 0:27:02 | 0:27:03 | |
Thank you very much. | 0:27:03 | 0:27:05 | |
In the years that I've known Liverpool, | 0:27:20 | 0:27:23 | |
I've seen it transformed by regeneration, | 0:27:23 | 0:27:25 | |
and by striking new buildings. | 0:27:25 | 0:27:28 | |
Giles Gilbert Scott invented a new architecture for the Edwardian age, | 0:27:28 | 0:27:34 | |
breaking from the Victorian Gothic style of his famous grandfather. | 0:27:34 | 0:27:38 | |
He was a prodigy, | 0:27:38 | 0:27:40 | |
taking on the enormous task of Liverpool Cathedral, | 0:27:40 | 0:27:44 | |
aged just 22, | 0:27:44 | 0:27:46 | |
and wrestling with it for the rest of his days. | 0:27:46 | 0:27:49 | |
Mark Baker was just 12 when he set up a trust to save Gwrych Castle, | 0:27:49 | 0:27:55 | |
and I have a feeling that that too will be a life's work. | 0:27:55 | 0:28:00 | |
Next time, I follow in the footsteps of Edwardian climbers. | 0:28:00 | 0:28:04 | |
-We made it! -Good stuff. | 0:28:04 | 0:28:06 | |
-A great view. -Yeah, stunning. | 0:28:06 | 0:28:09 | |
Meet a descendant of a great British Prime Minister. | 0:28:09 | 0:28:12 | |
How would you assess Lord George's role in winning World War I? | 0:28:12 | 0:28:16 | |
Victory was his goal, not glory. | 0:28:16 | 0:28:18 | |
And, after the Flying Scotsman, watch out for a flying Englishman. | 0:28:18 | 0:28:23 | |
Oh, my goodness! | 0:28:23 | 0:28:25 | |
Oh, so close to the ground! | 0:28:25 | 0:28:26 |