Biddulph Grange British Gardens in Time


Biddulph Grange

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Four iconic English gardens.

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Each is the product of one moment in history,

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and each gives us a fascinating window into the century

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in which they were made, and the people who created them.

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Much more than just a history of gardening,

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these are extraordinary tales of escape, social ambition,

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heartbreak, downfall and disaster.

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In unravelling these remarkable stories, we reach back over

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the centuries, to see these four great gardens through fresh eyes

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and gain a greater understanding of their real significance.

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Biddulph Grange lies almost completely hidden on the edge

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of moorland near the industrial heartlands of Staffordshire.

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It was created over 170 years ago

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and is probably the best surviving Victorian garden in the country.

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This garden is like a very bizarre piece of Victorian theatre.

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For me, it feels almost as if I've stepped into Alice in Wonderland.

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This revolutionary

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and theatrical garden was conceived by James Bateman,

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a deeply religious man who devoted much of his life to its creation.

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There's a mystery here,

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which I would like to uncover, which is what kind of obsession drove

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this wealthy, eccentric Victorian industrialist to create this

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remarkable garden, which eventually would lead him to financial ruin.

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Biddulph Grange is made up of several smaller individual gardens

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stocked with exotic specimens

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collected by the Victorian plant hunters.

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These wildly different gardens are linked by subterranean tunnels

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and passages,

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transporting the visitor around the globe in just a few steps.

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The garden caused a sensation in the world of Victorian horticulture,

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and allowed its creator, James Bateman,

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to rise from humble beginnings to the very top of society.

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Gardens like this really would have been classified

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by the educated classes as being really a bit of horticultural bling.

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But this Victorian masterpiece was nearly wiped from history.

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This is a garden that came within a moment of being lost for ever,

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and only brought back to life at the very last minute.

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To find out more about the character who created Biddulph Grange,

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historian Andrea Wulf has been delving into Bateman's past.

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James Bateman comes from a family of industrialists,

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part of the new middle classes.

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They have a lot of money but he's not a nobleman.

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James Bateman descended from a long line of entrepreneurs with flair

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and determination, characteristics that would stand him in good stead.

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His grandfather had invested very wisely in an emerging technology -

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steam engines - which made the family a fortune.

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Initially, Biddulph Grange had been purchased

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so the family could extend their business interests

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and mine the huge reserves of coal around the house.

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James Bateman had other ideas.

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He had just turned 30

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and wanted to use his vast inheritance to indulge

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his passions for horticulture and the new emerging sciences.

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We are in the Grand Hall of Biddulph Grange and there are some

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clues behind me which tell us a little bit about Victorian Britain.

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So, when we look at these windows, we see on the one hand the money,

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the coal mining, the Potteries,

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the steelworks, and then, on the other hand,

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you have the new discoveries, kind of scientific disciplines

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are emerging - astronomy, chemistry and electricity,

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so there are new discoveries happening,

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and Britain is marching towards progress.

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Great advances in horticulture also had a huge impact

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on Victorian gardens.

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One invention in particular revolutionised plant hunting.

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The Wardian case was a simple method to ship plants across the globe,

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and into the hands of passionate horticulturists like Bateman.

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Garden designer Chris Beardshaw has been exploring how

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technological advances helped to fuel a gardening revolution.

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This very simple piece of engineering

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means that we can bring into the UK plants from around the globe

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in living condition, and great condition.

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And, as a consequence, this became a tool for the creation

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and proliferation of Victorian gardens.

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Without it, British gardens just simply wouldn't have been the same.

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But new scientific discoveries didn't just affect horticulture.

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They were dramatically altering the Victorian's view of their world.

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In particular, geology, which threatened the religious

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convictions of devout Christians like Bateman.

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This is James Bateman's geological gallery

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in which he displayed fossils and rocks,

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and he displayed them in seven bays,

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which was the Bible, the genesis.

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So, the religion is at the top, the science is at the bottom.

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Although Bateman presented the two conflicting worlds together,

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it would prove to be an uneasy compromise

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that unsettled him for years to come.

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What this was, this was the entrance to the garden,

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so his visitors would come in, would be educated

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about the latest scientific knowledge, meanwhile being reminded

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that behind all this creation is still the divine architect.

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And then they would enter the garden, which is almost like

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they enter the Garden of Eden.

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Bateman had to build his garden from scratch. Although he possessed

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a keen horticultural mind, it was still a huge challenge.

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The site was rocky, steep and far from ideal,

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but he ventured forward in the true pioneering spirit

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of the Victorian age.

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One of the things which is very apparent

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during the Victorian era is that anything can be solved

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with technology and no problem is too great.

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He terraces, he constructs,

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he builds, he gouges, he moves earth.

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He's not afraid of radical change to the site in order to create

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the right conditions for his plants.

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One area of the garden might well have been inspired

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by those early excavations.

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The stumpery's display of upturned oak roots expressed Bateman's

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growing interest in botany.

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I love the stumpery.

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It's got such an atmosphere about it.

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All the garden parts are very clear in their identity.

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But of all of them, this is the one that has the biggest personality.

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It's incredible to think that

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when the land that Bateman acquired for this garden

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was full of bog and redundant, geriatric trees,

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this was largely what he did with them. These are the oak trees

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that he ripped out of the ground to clear the garden.

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The idea of turning the roots

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and displaying the roots must have really delighted Bateman,

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because what other opportunity does a polite, Victorian gentleman,

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or lady, for that instance, have at seeing the roots of a plant?

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It's a kind of modification of a rockery, really,

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but using the timber that was extracted from the site.

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It's pure science, but it just happens to be theatre.

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Bateman's garden would be shaped by his love for horticultural

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showmanship, inspired in part by his wife's family

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who lived at Arley Hall in Cheshire.

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The Egerton-Warburtons were gardening pioneers.

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And Bateman's marriage to Maria Egerton-Warburton would prove

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to be both horticulturally and socially beneficial.

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She comes from a very well respected Cheshire family,

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in the social class hierarchy higher than he is.

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Arley Hall's crowning glory is the theatrical herbaceous border,

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which was the first of its kind anywhere in the country.

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Arley Hall is a hidden

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and very often forgotten gem in the development of British horticulture.

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The idea of combining perennial and herbaceous plants

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together in a way which hadn't been seen before,

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to such scale and proportion,

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was something that set the horticultural world on fire.

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Letters between Bateman

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and his brother-in-law in which they exchanged horticultural ideas

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suggest there was some friendly rivalry between the two.

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At Biddulph, Bateman upstaged Arley Hall by taking his border

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in a different direction. Reflecting his interests in science

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and religion, he chose to build a showcase for just one plant

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which, at the time, was the subject of a national craze.

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The dahlia was such a wonderful example of how the Victorians

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became obsessed - and obsession is certainly appropriate

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in this sense - obsessed with a particular plant.

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Bateman's own obsession with dahlias was serious.

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He built this entire walkway packed with every variety available

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in a celebration of both botanic advancement

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and, as he believed, the wonders of God's creation.

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The display today at Biddulph is a big attraction.

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The garden team's work to get it ready starts early in the year.

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In the warmth of the greenhouse, 900 dahlia cuttings are potted on.

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This job falls to one of the garden team, Bob, who started working

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at Biddulph Grange when he left school 35 years ago.

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All the plants that go in the garden have to be

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in the era of the Victorian times.

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We can't just plant anything what we like.

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Over 40 different varieties will be planted out in the Dahlia Walk.

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In Bateman's day, dozens of gardeners were employed,

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but today it's just a team of five,

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including the garden manager, Paul Walton.

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That's it, brilliant, that is, yeah.

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It's one of the show gardens at Biddulph.

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We have all the team in, we're planting 900 dahlias,

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nine individual bays.

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It's a huge team effort. I say it's one of the best displays

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you'll see in any garden in the country.

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James Bateman would've wowed in the Dahlia Walk.

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He was in love with these flowers, so he would show them off

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to their best potential.

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I'm sure he'd have done a better job than us, to be honest.

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The dahlia wasn't just admired for its flowers.

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It also became fashionable in parts of Europe

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for an entirely different reason.

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The plant itself is a peculiar beast. It grows from tubas.

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In South America, the South American tribes

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ate them at tribal feasts

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and it was the tuba itself that was eaten in just

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the same way that we eat a potato, and the Spanish opted for the dahlia

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as an edible crop. In fact, in many parts of Spain today you still see

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recipes for dahlia-related products - dahlia bread and dahlia pastries.

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Dahlias are great examples of horticultural bling,

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but that bling is largely man-made. At least, it's bred into the plants.

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The Victorians exploited the dahlia's potential

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for cultivation, which was almost limitless due the plant's structure.

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So, if we look at a flower like this

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and think of it as being a single bloom,

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in the centre here we have many, many hundreds

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individual flowers which are petal-less,

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and that means that there's not only great nectar and pollen

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for insects, but also many blooms means many opportunities to breed.

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Whilst Bateman embraced the cultivation of plants

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of a similar species, his strongly held religious beliefs meant

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he abhorred the cross breeding of plants of differing species.

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Hybrids were the genetic engineering of their day

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and had no place in his garden.

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Bateman envisaged his garden as a way to display

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the treasures of nature.

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It was a vision that inspired him

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to create one of the most significant pinetums in the country.

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I think the professionals that were writing about gardens

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during Bateman's time at Biddulph would have said that it was

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THE pinetum to visit in the country at the time.

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Alan Power is head gardener at Stourhead.

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He has an unquenchable passion for trees

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and he's come to Biddulph to find out

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just why Bateman's pinetum stood apart from others.

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He's being shown around by one of the garden team, Leslie Hurst.

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So, this is Bateman at his best.

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This is one of his eccentricities. This is a sudden change

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so you're in a completely different part of the world,

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you've got different architecture.

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-So you've got no idea what's round the corner?

-No.

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There's a real sense of excitement.

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You're funnelled through a narrow little tunnel,

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and then you come out to this view.

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Oh, look at that! It's just fantastic.

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This is his next little surprise, is the pinetum.

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Bateman's pinetum was inspired by the wealth of new species

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being introduced from the Americas.

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One star of the show he chose to give pride of place

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was the Chilean pine, more commonly known as the monkey puzzle.

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This is really interesting, this mound planting effect that

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Bateman did, isn't it?

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You know, he just wanted to do justice to these exotic...

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He wants to show it off, it's something so unusual,

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so precious that it's been given real good treatment,

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and now it's sitting there as a prime example.

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You can't walk past and not see it, you can't ignore it.

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You want to get right around it and make sure you don't miss anything.

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In the early 1840s, plant hunter William Lobb

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collected 3,000 monkey puzzle seeds

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on an expedition to the southern Andes in Chile.

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Bateman was among the first to get hold of these new introductions.

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This isn't just any old monkey puzzle,

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this is one of Lobb's seeds and this is where, I suppose,

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I get tickled inside that I can travel through

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William Lobb's experience looking at and touching this tree.

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This is James Bateman's dream, this is his ideal tree,

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and he must've been so proud of them

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although, obviously, he didn't see them at this size.

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This highly unusual tree was to be the star attraction

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in Bateman's collection.

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There's a bit of this monkey puzzle here.

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You know, what is that all about?

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In Victorian times,

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it must've been a real novelty to see this thing growing.

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It's curious, it's unusual, it's properly exotic.

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So the excitement Bateman must have been feeling

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would have been something else.

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Bateman exhibited his new specimens in a unique fashion,

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making his pinetum one of the most unusual

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and highly regarded in the country.

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This is great, isn't it? This really is what Bateman wanted to see.

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-Yeah.

-You know, this whole tree,

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and you're not just seeing it come straight out

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of the ground but you're actually seeing the anchors of the tree.

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You can see the root system.

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He had a thing about roots. He loved the whole of the tree,

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not just the leaf, or the form, he loved everything about it.

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-The whole thing, top to bottom.

-Yeah.

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The more time I spend admiring Bateman's trees at Biddulph,

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the more I feel as if I'm getting to know Bateman, you know,

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and getting to know a bit about himself as a horticulturalist,

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as a curious scientist.

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And he's displaying these trees at Biddulph like little museum pieces.

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James Bateman's fascination with botany started at an early age.

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When he was just eight, he became fixated with a plant that

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would change his life - the orchid.

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Bateman was clearly obsessive about many areas of his garden -

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the Dahlia Walk, the stumpery, the ferns collection,

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the pinetums. Orchids fitted perfectly into that obsessive streak

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that he undoubtedly had because there were so many to collect

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and because they were such complex and little understood organisms.

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You know, what else is going to deliver that diversity, the range,

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the beauty, the rarity, but also satisfy that scientific craving?

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While he was studying at Oxford University, Bateman used his

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wealth to pay others to risk life and limb collecting orchids for him.

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Such was the strength of his love affair with orchids

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that he wrote an entire book devoted to them.

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But this is no ordinary book.

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It's the largest botanical book ever produced and extremely rare.

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Only 125 copies were printed,

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and this one is held at the Lindley Library in London.

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Its publication set the horticultural world alight,

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establishing Bateman as a leading botanist

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and bringing him international fame.

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Here at Biddulph, they have a copy of Bateman's book -

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The Orchidacea of Mexico and Guatemala.

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The original is, of course, held in Lindley Library,

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but this one, albeit slightly smaller, is no less spectacular.

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It's a beautiful, beautiful piece of work,

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both in text and also in its illustrations.

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I mean, they are just the most beautiful pieces of work.

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The level of detail, the botanic detail is unrivalled,

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I mean, it really is breathtaking.

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Someone who understands where a passion for orchids can lead

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is modern day plant hunter, Tom Hart Dyke.

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Here we have an exquisite orchid. It was the first orchid

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I was ever given at the age of six or seven by my inspirational granny.

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It's a naturally occurring hybrid called the Common Spotted Orchid,

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or Southern Marsh Orchid cross.

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Very exotic, and it's a naturally occurring orchid.

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James Bateman and his superb illustrations that were produced

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in the 1830s, '40s, inspired me to go abroad to see orchids

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in the wild, in particular a place that he was fascinated by -

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Central America.

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Tom Hart Dyke followed in the very footsteps

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of Bateman's plant hunters,

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travelling the globe to find new orchids.

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Going down these steep bits is quite a...whoa!

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There I was, seeing plants in the wild that these people would

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have seen back in the pre-Victorian era in some cases.

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There's something about an orchid, they are just exquisite.

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But his obsession took Tom on one trip into a remote and dangerous

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part of the Columbian jungle, which nearly cost him his life.

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He was kidnapped by local guerrillas and held captive for nine months.

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His family never expected to see him again.

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Through orchids, I got into this situation.

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We went on these armed orchid patrols -

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James Bateman would've been proud - going into these amazing areas

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of cloud forest and, I'm not recommending it,

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but after being kidnapped I saw some absolute belters, orchids.

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There were new species just literally

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dripping from the tress, you couldn't see

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the trees for the orchids and they were just absolutely fantastic.

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It was just horticultural heaven.

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After nine months, Tom's kidnappers realised he was no threat

0:23:080:23:12

but was simply an obsessive orchid collector and so released him.

0:23:120:23:17

To this day, he's kept the one memento from his fateful trip

0:23:200:23:25

which kept him sane during his captivity,

0:23:250:23:28

and he has James Bateman to thank for it.

0:23:280:23:30

And what I've got here... Well, I don't often show this, I have to say.

0:23:330:23:39

This golden bag is full of Columbian, Panamanian

0:23:390:23:43

kidnap paraphernalia and, at the top of it,

0:23:430:23:46

the absolute star of the show,

0:23:460:23:48

my little James Bateman address book with illustrations

0:23:480:23:52

inspired from the most, I think, famous botanical book ever produced.

0:23:520:23:57

Look at those illustrations.

0:23:570:23:59

God, you smell the Columbian air getting up your nose.

0:23:590:24:03

Fetid heat of the tropical rainforest,

0:24:040:24:07

it's extraordinarily, extraordinarily emotional.

0:24:070:24:11

To some people, just a couple of illustrations of orchids.

0:24:110:24:14

To me, a life-changing experience having this book.

0:24:140:24:17

I haven't read this since being captive 13 years ago.

0:24:170:24:21

And to think that this little book in the times of sheer hell,

0:24:210:24:24

to be honest with you, sheer darkness,

0:24:240:24:26

seeing this inspired me to stay sane

0:24:260:24:29

and to think about the positive botanical delights in life,

0:24:290:24:33

rather than a big M-16 by the temple of your head.

0:24:330:24:38

In a very strange way, Mr James Bateman, basically,

0:24:400:24:44

however indirectly it might be, saved my life.

0:24:440:24:48

James Bateman's book was the talk of the horticultural world.

0:24:550:24:59

Orchid collectors at the very top of Victorian society

0:24:590:25:03

were falling over themselves to get a copy.

0:25:030:25:05

When you read the list of subscribers that Bateman

0:25:080:25:12

puts at the front of the book, it's in descending hierarchical order,

0:25:120:25:15

which is fascinating. So, you've got the Duke of Bedford,

0:25:150:25:17

the Duke of Devonshire, the Duke of Marlborough, the Duke of Northumberland...

0:25:170:25:21

It is the who's who of anyone in horticulture.

0:25:210:25:23

This gives him licence to knock on the door of the great

0:25:230:25:26

and the good in the world of gardens and gardening

0:25:260:25:29

and say, "You know who I am."

0:25:290:25:31

Bateman's acceptance by the horticultural elite gave him

0:25:320:25:36

an entree to the very highest echelons of Victorian society.

0:25:360:25:40

I think James Bateman is a very confident young man.

0:25:430:25:46

He writes a letter in February 1835, when he's just 23 years old,

0:25:460:25:51

to the 6th Duke of Devonshire at Chatsworth.

0:25:510:25:55

It's beautifully written because he wants to make a very good impression.

0:25:550:25:59

This is one of the wealthiest landowners

0:25:590:26:02

in the whole of the country, and he writes to him and he says,

0:26:020:26:06

"It is possible that my name may not be altogether unknown to you."

0:26:060:26:11

So, he's expecting the Duke of Devonshire to know him.

0:26:110:26:15

It's almost like he's using their love for plants as a way in

0:26:150:26:19

to this other social class that he's really not part of at all.

0:26:190:26:24

Chatsworth at that time in the mid-1830s is one of the most

0:26:280:26:33

spectacular gardens in the country.

0:26:330:26:36

I mean, there are gardeners going on a horticultural pilgrimage

0:26:360:26:40

up to Chatsworth.

0:26:400:26:41

James Bateman had clearly made an impression on the Duke

0:26:450:26:48

and they continued to exchange letters

0:26:480:26:50

about their shared love of orchids.

0:26:500:26:52

Well, he writes one letter where, I think it's really beautiful,

0:26:540:26:57

where he says, "Before I was so violently smitten

0:26:570:27:01

"with the orchids, I devoted much of my time

0:27:010:27:04

"to growing or attempting to grow the different tropical fruit trees."

0:27:040:27:07

So, he's talking... He's "violently smitten" by the orchids,

0:27:070:27:11

so he's talking - like so many other gardeners about his plants -

0:27:110:27:15

almost as if they are lovers.

0:27:150:27:17

So there is this... You know, they are really crazy about these plants

0:27:170:27:21

and that's something that transcends class.

0:27:210:27:24

The Duke of Devonshire's very close friendship with his head gardener,

0:27:270:27:32

Joseph Paxton at Chatsworth, is testament to the way

0:27:320:27:35

in which horticulture broke down social barriers.

0:27:350:27:38

Joseph Paxton would find world fame by exploiting his skills

0:27:390:27:44

as both a horticulturist and engineer, establishing him

0:27:440:27:48

as the most influential force in the world of Victorian gardening.

0:27:480:27:52

At Chatsworth, his crowning glory was to design the largest glass

0:27:540:27:58

structure to be built at that time.

0:27:580:28:01

Paxton called it his Great Stove.

0:28:010:28:04

Now, at that time, glass is quite heavily taxed,

0:28:040:28:07

so this is very expensive just in terms of the materials.

0:28:070:28:11

And it's only five years later,

0:28:110:28:13

in 1845, that the glass tax gets repealed.

0:28:130:28:16

So it's this extraordinary moment when the glasshouse is finished

0:28:170:28:21

when they have to fill it, and gardeners like Bateman

0:28:210:28:24

are very happy to offer some of their plants for this.

0:28:240:28:28

Paxton exploited all the latest Victorian advances in technology

0:28:300:28:34

to construct his Great Stove.

0:28:340:28:36

It was revolutionary.

0:28:360:28:38

He's said to have been particularly inspired

0:28:410:28:44

by the construction of the regal lily,

0:28:440:28:47

the water lily that comes from the Amazonian forests,

0:28:470:28:52

the pad of which is several feet across.

0:28:520:28:55

In fact, he was so convinced by the structural stability of the pad,

0:28:550:28:59

he stood his own daughter on it to prove that

0:28:590:29:03

floating on the surface of the water,

0:29:030:29:06

this single leaf could support the weight of a child.

0:29:060:29:08

And it was the veining on the underside of the leaf that

0:29:080:29:11

Paxton was particularly interested in because that gave him

0:29:110:29:15

the inspiration for some of his greatest

0:29:150:29:17

architectural glass constructions.

0:29:170:29:19

This revolution in glass technology triggered a new

0:29:240:29:27

craze for using tender bedding plants to great effect,

0:29:270:29:30

as at Waddesdon Manor, the creation of Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild.

0:29:300:29:34

One of the things that became really fashionable is the idea

0:29:390:29:43

of using plants in the same way

0:29:430:29:46

as one would use a thread in a tapestry.

0:29:460:29:49

So, carpet bedding.

0:29:490:29:51

And carpet is where we really are inspired by,

0:29:510:29:54

in terms of horticultural planting,

0:29:540:29:56

because it's about taking vibrant textures and tones through,

0:29:560:30:00

and weaving them together into the most flamboyant

0:30:000:30:03

of horticultural fabrics.

0:30:030:30:05

Like Bateman, Rothschild spent prodigiously on his garden

0:30:070:30:11

as a means of displaying his wealth and status.

0:30:110:30:13

Waddesdon Manor is a fantastic example of the way in which

0:30:230:30:27

bedding becomes almost ridiculous with this sort of extravagance

0:30:270:30:32

and approach of producing hundreds and thousands of plants,

0:30:320:30:36

not just propagated but then planted out and very carefully tended.

0:30:360:30:40

And, of course, any bedding is only very,

0:30:400:30:42

very temporary by its nature.

0:30:420:30:44

It's an exotic plant that's not hardy,

0:30:440:30:46

and therefore the period interest is really rather short,

0:30:460:30:49

so the investment in labour

0:30:490:30:51

and the investment in plant material is really quite extraordinary.

0:30:510:30:54

So it is only the moneyed classes who can really afford

0:30:540:30:57

this rather radical approach to horticulture.

0:30:570:30:59

Bateman's botanical tastes were more rarefied than Rothschild's,

0:31:180:31:22

but he still had ambitions to put Biddulph on the horticultural map.

0:31:220:31:26

The catalyst for this was meeting Edward Cooke,

0:31:260:31:29

a man of considerable talents,

0:31:290:31:31

which Bateman was able to deploy to great effect in his garden.

0:31:310:31:35

Edward Cooke was a successful painter and gardener.

0:31:370:31:41

His natural flair as a landscape designer would transform Biddulph

0:31:410:31:45

and make it the most unique garden of its age.

0:31:450:31:47

I think that's why Biddulph feels so confident as a garden,

0:31:520:31:57

because it isn't just one man's wild and childlike imagination.

0:31:570:32:02

It's grounded with the foundation of design and horticulture,

0:32:020:32:07

and that must surely have been inspired by Cooke.

0:32:070:32:09

But one momentous event in Victorian history would be a huge inspiration

0:32:180:32:23

for Bateman and his designer, Cooke -

0:32:230:32:26

The Great Exhibition of 1851.

0:32:260:32:29

Chatsworth's head gardener, Joseph Paxton, achieved world fame

0:32:320:32:36

and a knighthood when he was chosen to design and build

0:32:360:32:40

the largest glass structure on earth, The Crystal Palace.

0:32:400:32:43

It took 2,000 men eight months to build.

0:32:450:32:48

When the Great Exhibition happens, that's really the moment

0:32:500:32:53

when Britain is showing to the world we are the workshop of the world,

0:32:530:32:57

we can produce all these things,

0:32:570:32:59

we are better than the rest of the world.

0:32:590:33:02

James Bateman was among the 6 million visitors.

0:33:020:33:05

He was accompanied by his friend, Edward Cooke,

0:33:050:33:08

who recorded these visits in his personal diary.

0:33:080:33:11

This diary gives us glimpses of how they worked together here,

0:33:120:33:17

but also what kind of stuff they did.

0:33:170:33:20

So, for example, I've found one entry where Cooke and Bateman

0:33:200:33:24

go together to the Great Exhibition in London, and this is what is says.

0:33:240:33:28

"Mr Bateman called early and I went with him to gardens

0:33:280:33:31

"in Great Exhibition. Home at 12, very cold east wind."

0:33:310:33:35

Always mentioning the weather, very important.

0:33:350:33:37

Then, a few days later, they go again, and it says,

0:33:370:33:40

"Mr Bateman called.

0:33:400:33:42

"I met him at the Great Exhibition at five. Saw Egypt".

0:33:420:33:45

Now those two words, "Saw Egypt,"

0:33:450:33:48

they tell us a lot about a particular part in this garden.

0:33:480:33:52

What I think really must have blown them completely away

0:34:160:34:20

was the Egyptian court at the Great Exhibition.

0:34:200:34:23

So you had this huge space in the Crystal Palace,

0:34:230:34:27

which was dedicated to Egypt, and when you look at pictures

0:34:270:34:32

of it now, you see dozens and dozens of those guys,

0:34:320:34:36

huge, sitting exactly this way, lined up one after another.

0:34:360:34:41

And they went there to see that, and you can see how they take that

0:34:410:34:45

journey from the Great Exhibition and bring it into the garden here.

0:34:450:34:48

The whole Exhibition was one big build up to show the world

0:34:530:34:59

how great Britain is and, in a way, that's what Bateman is doing here.

0:34:590:35:03

One of the delightful things about Bateman's work is that

0:35:050:35:08

you're transported from one region of the world to another,

0:35:080:35:12

almost in the flick of an eye.

0:35:120:35:14

Victorian England was fascinated by Egypt,

0:35:160:35:19

but more ambitious explorations to the exotic East

0:35:190:35:23

stimulated Bateman and Cooke to even higher levels of creative endeavour.

0:35:230:35:27

This part of the garden would be the most acclaimed

0:35:310:35:34

and confirm Biddulph as one of the wonders of the Victorian age.

0:35:340:35:38

I think it's the most wonderful piece of theatre, I really do.

0:36:150:36:18

And what's really impressive is,

0:36:180:36:20

every time you come through, you're surprised.

0:36:200:36:24

As the season changes and you see different highlights,

0:36:240:36:28

as the sunlight catches the different trees,

0:36:280:36:31

you know, different areas of the garden become enlivened.

0:36:310:36:35

It's just beautiful.

0:36:350:36:36

The Chinese garden was hugely exotic for the Victorian visitors.

0:36:370:36:42

Its appeal and dramatic effect transported them

0:36:420:36:45

to a world few, if any, would get the chance to see.

0:36:450:36:49

China is incredibly important in the history of horticulture in the UK.

0:36:500:36:55

Horticulturalists and gardeners were very keen to send explorers in

0:36:550:36:59

to discover the riches of horticulture

0:36:590:37:02

that lay in this vast country.

0:37:020:37:04

An example of a plant hunter

0:37:060:37:08

who's particularly relevant to this garden is Robert Fortune,

0:37:080:37:12

a dour and miserable, somewhat humourless Scot, some described him as,

0:37:120:37:16

who was despatched off to China on several occasions.

0:37:160:37:21

And he is responsible for supplying at least one plant

0:37:210:37:25

directly from China into Bateman's collection -

0:37:250:37:28

a wonderful golden larix,

0:37:280:37:30

which is one of three that came in as part of an expedition,

0:37:300:37:35

and the other two failed.

0:37:350:37:36

The one here in Biddulph is still thriving.

0:37:360:37:39

But Bateman never travelled further than Europe.

0:37:420:37:45

In fact, his Chinese garden

0:37:450:37:47

was inspired by something far closer to home,

0:37:470:37:49

in Stoke on Trent,

0:37:490:37:51

which at the time was the beating heart

0:37:510:37:53

of the British pottery industry.

0:37:530:37:55

This is the inspiration for China here in Biddulph.

0:37:560:38:00

And it's a plate, produced by Spode,

0:38:000:38:05

which was a local pottery, and it's their most popular pattern.

0:38:050:38:10

And what you can see here is you can see a Chinese scene,

0:38:100:38:13

you can see a willow tree, you can see a Chinese temple,

0:38:130:38:17

you can see a Chinese boat, a Chinese bridge, a Chinese fence,

0:38:170:38:22

and it's almost like as if he took this plate

0:38:220:38:25

into his garden and tried to recreate exactly this.

0:38:250:38:29

The British fascination for all things Chinese

0:38:320:38:35

wasn't just down to the wealth of new introductions for the garden.

0:38:350:38:39

Big business had its eye on the Far East, too.

0:38:390:38:42

Robert Fortune was employed by the East India Trading Company

0:38:440:38:48

to penetrate into the depths of China and bring out the secret of tea.

0:38:480:38:53

Tea was being held within China.

0:38:530:38:57

The plants, the most sacred plants weren't allowed to cross the borders,

0:38:570:39:01

and the British, particularly, were very keen to gain access

0:39:010:39:04

because tea was gaining in popularity.

0:39:040:39:07

Robert Fortune ventured in on his second expedition in China in 1842,

0:39:070:39:13

and he went armed, rather bizarrely,

0:39:130:39:16

with an English-Chinese dictionary,

0:39:160:39:18

a gun, some rather rudimentary horticultural tools,

0:39:180:39:23

and a Chinese wig and a cloak.

0:39:230:39:25

He got himself in to the most sacred gardens,

0:39:250:39:29

to the best plantations of tea and managed to steal cuttings.

0:39:290:39:32

And it's said that he brought live plant material

0:39:320:39:35

tucked in his cloak across the border into India,

0:39:350:39:39

and it broke the stranglehold of China on tea.

0:39:390:39:42

Bateman succeeded in bringing the world into his garden,

0:39:470:39:51

despite never travelling to these exotic locations himself.

0:39:510:39:54

It was Cooke's skilful designs that would transport the visitor

0:39:540:39:58

to different parts of the globe.

0:39:580:40:00

In this case, the Himalayan glen.

0:40:020:40:05

One of the lovely things about this glen area and the upper glen beyond

0:40:090:40:14

is just how realistic it is.

0:40:140:40:16

I mean, this is about displaying ferns, you know,

0:40:160:40:20

in the way that ferns grow.

0:40:200:40:22

And there's no doubt Cooke's genius in assembling the rocks,

0:40:220:40:28

so he understood, clearly, the geology and the formation,

0:40:280:40:31

the way that the layers were working, you know.

0:40:310:40:33

It's just a fabulous piece of work, very convincing as a piece of work.

0:40:330:40:37

This upper glen area has been opened up

0:40:370:40:40

and restocked with plants that were all the rage in Victorian times.

0:40:400:40:43

Ferns.

0:40:460:40:47

I would like it as close here as we can so when you walk under here

0:40:530:40:56

I'd like just that canopy and the leaves coming over

0:40:560:40:59

so you're actually walking under a bit of an archway here, yeah?

0:40:590:41:02

And also they get a bit close

0:41:020:41:03

where they can almost touch it, as well.

0:41:030:41:05

Lovely. Cheers. I'll catch you in a bit.

0:41:050:41:08

For gardener manager Paul,

0:41:080:41:10

this project has been a personal ambition.

0:41:100:41:13

We're currently restoring this area.

0:41:150:41:17

We try and keep it in with the spirit of the place.

0:41:170:41:19

We haven't got a lot of history about some of the things,

0:41:190:41:22

but we do know that ferns were in this area.

0:41:220:41:25

Yeah, I think we'll have it back here,

0:41:250:41:27

cos then you will see it from down there

0:41:270:41:29

and it'll sort of tail down either side of the rock.

0:41:290:41:32

This top area's never, ever been open to the public

0:41:320:41:35

and we're looking to plant it up with ferns,

0:41:350:41:37

get the bridge replaced, and it'll be a nice addition to the garden.

0:41:370:41:41

And you've got some spectacular views across to the lily pond,

0:41:410:41:44

and also you do get a glimpse of the Chinese garden, which is nice.

0:41:440:41:48

James Bateman kept few records or plant lists,

0:41:490:41:53

but the team at Biddulph have one key piece of reference,

0:41:530:41:56

written in 1862, which has given them some vital clues.

0:41:560:42:00

We've got some tree ferns.

0:42:020:42:03

We are going to be placing one of the tree ferns here.

0:42:030:42:06

We've put one in there, which creates a nice canopy...

0:42:060:42:09

Volunteer Elaine Laws and Paul have been trying to match up

0:42:090:42:13

Bateman's original varieties with any that are still available today.

0:42:130:42:17

Of these, have you managed to source any of these?

0:42:180:42:22

We have. What we have found out is some of those names

0:42:220:42:26

-are old Victorian names...

-Right, yeah, of course.

0:42:260:42:28

..so we've had to find out the modern equivalent.

0:42:280:42:31

That's brilliant. Shall we go walk up...?

0:42:310:42:33

Fern collecting became a Victorian craze,

0:42:330:42:36

and James Bateman was no exception,

0:42:360:42:39

encouraged by Edward Cooke, who was fixated with them.

0:42:390:42:43

The fern is a curious creature because it is acceptable

0:42:500:42:54

in Victorian society for women to be engaged in the propagation

0:42:540:42:58

and collection of ferns, and also the depiction of ferns

0:42:580:43:01

within artistry and embroidery and tapestries.

0:43:010:43:04

The fern is seen as a very polite plant.

0:43:040:43:08

It's a plant which is appropriate for proper ladies to be involved with

0:43:080:43:12

because the fern doesn't display any overt sexual function.

0:43:120:43:18

The absence of flowers and sexual reproduction,

0:43:180:43:22

which is obvious to the human eye, is something which is considered

0:43:220:43:25

appropriate for ladies to be involved with.

0:43:250:43:28

Ferns are perfect.

0:43:280:43:29

Bateman's garden had consumed a vast amount of his wealth,

0:43:360:43:40

but he continued to expand and develop new areas

0:43:400:43:43

which he stocked with the latest and most extravagant introductions.

0:43:430:43:48

What a CV these trees have.

0:43:500:43:52

You know, they're said to be the oldest, largest,

0:43:520:43:55

heaviest living organisms on the planet.

0:43:550:43:58

Bateman was one of the first in Britain to get hold of seeds

0:43:590:44:03

from a tree which at the time was the talk of the horticultural world.

0:44:030:44:07

He chose to show them off in a grand avenue.

0:44:100:44:13

You couldn't really stand anywhere more appropriate

0:44:150:44:19

and get a real sense of the Victorian era of gardening.

0:44:190:44:22

This is spectacular, really exciting.

0:44:230:44:26

I know them as the giant sequoias.

0:44:310:44:33

They are gigantic, and they are sequoias.

0:44:330:44:36

They're also known as Wellingtonias.

0:44:360:44:39

That name came about, really, because,

0:44:390:44:42

if you send a plant hunter from Britain to America

0:44:420:44:45

to discover and to bring back seed from the biggest, best,

0:44:450:44:48

greatest tree that stories have been told about,

0:44:480:44:51

you're going to want to give it an everlasting name.

0:44:510:44:54

So it was named after the Duke of Wellington.

0:44:540:44:56

But in America it's commonly known as the Washingtonia.

0:44:560:45:00

They were over £2 a seed, you know, back in the 1850s.

0:45:030:45:07

That's expensive.

0:45:070:45:09

And he bought enough seed to plant an avenue.

0:45:090:45:12

It's a real statement of wealth.

0:45:120:45:14

I'm just really grateful that this is what

0:45:140:45:18

he chose to put his money into.

0:45:180:45:19

I mean, the Victorians threw their money at industry,

0:45:190:45:23

at engineering, all kinds of things,

0:45:230:45:25

but we're incredibly lucky that Bateman had a passion for plants.

0:45:250:45:29

But these precious trees never reached full maturity.

0:45:330:45:37

Tragically, they were felled by the next owner of Biddulph Grange.

0:45:370:45:41

In 1990, the National Trust decided to restore

0:45:420:45:45

the Wellingtonia Avenue to Bateman's original designs.

0:45:450:45:49

They've been planted here by the Trust now for nearly 20 years,

0:45:510:45:56

I suppose, and they're just starting to get away and in my lifetime,

0:45:560:45:59

fingers crossed, I'll come back and see them two or three times again.

0:45:590:46:03

And they will achieve 80, 90, 100 feet.

0:46:030:46:05

And I want to sit at the bottom of one of these trees and just look up

0:46:050:46:08

and see it at Biddulph

0:46:080:46:10

and see it happy in the English landscape.

0:46:100:46:13

I do want to come back as an old aged pensioner

0:46:130:46:16

and see them twice this height.

0:46:160:46:18

After almost 25 years, James Bateman had achieved respect

0:46:220:46:26

as an accomplished horticulturist.

0:46:260:46:29

He'd risen up the social ranks

0:46:290:46:31

and become Vice President of the Royal Horticultural Society

0:46:310:46:34

and Biddulph received great accolades

0:46:340:46:37

when scrutinised by the garden critic of the day, Edward Kemp,

0:46:370:46:40

for a hugely respected magazine.

0:46:400:46:43

Edward Kemp's article in Gardeners' Chronicle -

0:46:460:46:49

a key journal of the day - is really the first point

0:46:490:46:52

at which Bateman's work becomes more broadly celebrated.

0:46:520:46:56

So, aside from friends and relations and invited guests,

0:46:560:46:59

this is the first example of somebody coming specifically

0:46:590:47:02

to write about it and document it

0:47:020:47:04

and publish it to a much broader audience,

0:47:040:47:07

and it signals social acceptance

0:47:070:47:09

because the article is actually incredibly favourable.

0:47:090:47:13

Bateman's achievements were only possible thanks to the extraordinary

0:47:140:47:17

developments in science and technology.

0:47:170:47:20

Yet, to Bateman, his garden was a testament

0:47:200:47:23

to his deeply held religious beliefs -

0:47:230:47:26

beliefs that were about to be tested

0:47:260:47:28

by one of the great scientists of the age.

0:47:280:47:30

This gallery was finished by 1862. This is three years after

0:47:320:47:36

Charles Darwin publishes his Origin Of Species,

0:47:360:47:40

which is the moment he presents to the world his evolutionary theory,

0:47:400:47:44

which is the most important book in the 19th century

0:47:440:47:47

and that changes everything.

0:47:470:47:48

And Darwin and Bateman knew each other.

0:47:480:47:51

Bateman sent Darwin some orchids to persuade him

0:47:520:47:56

they were the wonders of God's creation.

0:47:560:47:58

But Darwin studied them and concluded they in fact supported

0:47:580:48:02

his scientific theories of evolution.

0:48:020:48:05

So, on the one hand you have Charles Darwin

0:48:090:48:11

who used these orchids to find out about how orchids had adapted

0:48:110:48:15

to their environment and to their pollinators.

0:48:150:48:17

And, on the other hand, you have Bateman,

0:48:170:48:20

a deeply religious man who believed that plants and animals

0:48:200:48:24

had been created entirely for the use of mankind.

0:48:240:48:28

So these two really did not agree at all.

0:48:280:48:31

But Darwin didn't just disagree with Bateman.

0:48:310:48:35

He went ahead and published his theories on the evolution

0:48:350:48:38

of the orchid in a well-received book.

0:48:380:48:40

For Bateman to have come out on the losing side

0:48:400:48:43

in such a public squabble must have been a humiliation.

0:48:430:48:46

If you come to Biddulph

0:48:470:48:49

in the hope of learning something about its creator, Bateman,

0:48:490:48:54

and trying to get under the skin of the man,

0:48:540:48:57

you're left, I think, slightly perplexed.

0:48:570:49:00

It's either the work of genius

0:49:000:49:03

or it's the work of a man who is wrestling internally

0:49:030:49:07

with religion on one hand and science on the other,

0:49:070:49:12

both opposing.

0:49:120:49:14

Yet, despite his garden being hailed as a masterpiece,

0:49:180:49:21

Bateman had a bigger problem on the horizon.

0:49:210:49:24

It had cost him so much money that his debts were crippling.

0:49:240:49:28

So when you read through Cooke's diary,

0:49:360:49:38

towards the end there's an entry which reveals

0:49:380:49:42

a little bit to us that this might be the beginning

0:49:420:49:45

of the end of this garden, because on the 24th September 1869

0:49:450:49:50

there's an entry, which says, "Mr Bateman wrote a sad letter."

0:49:500:49:54

It's a letter in which he explains

0:49:540:49:56

why he's intending to sell Biddulph Grange.

0:49:560:50:00

He says, "I only wish now that I had not laid out so much money upon it."

0:50:000:50:06

You know, he did spend a fortune on this garden.

0:50:060:50:09

By that time he has a mortgage of £35,000.

0:50:090:50:13

In today's money that was a debt of over £1.5 million.

0:50:140:50:18

He has really thrown money onto this place

0:50:200:50:24

but he's ready to sell it.

0:50:240:50:26

Biddulph Grange was sold in 1872

0:50:280:50:30

to another wealthy Industrialist and MP, Robert Heath.

0:50:300:50:34

So, when they're leaving here, you can imagine it's relatively easy,

0:50:350:50:39

you pack your furniture, your crockery, your silver,

0:50:390:50:41

that's all fine, you can take that with you.

0:50:410:50:44

They're moving to London.

0:50:440:50:45

But they have to leave behind all of this.

0:50:450:50:48

You know, the thing that they are clearly most passionate about,

0:50:480:50:52

that they can't take.

0:50:520:50:53

So they are leaving behind China, Egypt, all their plants,

0:50:530:50:56

the ferns, all of that stays here.

0:50:560:50:59

So it must have been absolutely heartbreaking

0:50:590:51:03

to pack up the house and leave the garden behind.

0:51:030:51:06

Although the new owner's interest in gardening never matched Bateman's,

0:51:100:51:14

the garden was very well maintained

0:51:140:51:17

and the house was expensively renovated.

0:51:170:51:19

But then disaster struck.

0:51:190:51:21

The house was almost destroyed by fire.

0:51:240:51:28

The local fire brigade posed after the event for this photograph,

0:51:280:51:32

with flames painted in for effect.

0:51:320:51:34

The outbreak of World War I

0:51:400:51:42

signalled the beginning of the end for the garden.

0:51:420:51:45

Robert Heath's money dried up

0:51:450:51:47

and parts of the estate were sold off.

0:51:470:51:50

The house was converted into an orthopaedic hospital,

0:51:500:51:53

with drastic consequences for the garden.

0:51:530:51:56

It is actually unbelievable to realise that this entire area

0:51:570:52:01

was just completely covered over, it was just under the ground.

0:52:010:52:05

So we didn't know it was there at all.

0:52:050:52:07

In 1988, the National Trust took ownership of the garden,

0:52:080:52:13

which by now was close to ruin and in danger of being completely lost.

0:52:130:52:17

There's absolutely no doubt at all that we needed to save it.

0:52:210:52:25

Its importance, and it still is its absolute importance,

0:52:250:52:28

is that it is absolutely the height of high Victorian gardening.

0:52:280:52:33

It's probably is the only complete Victorian garden in the country.

0:52:330:52:38

Julian Gibbs headed up the team

0:52:410:52:43

that took the decision to restore the garden.

0:52:430:52:45

At the time, we said it was the biggest garden restoration undertaken by the Trust.

0:52:490:52:53

It had all been flattened, there had been hospital buildings here,

0:52:530:52:56

the dahlia walk had been filled in, and so on.

0:52:560:52:59

I mean, it was a mess. It really was a mess.

0:52:590:53:02

We had to get diggers in to dig it all out and then dump the soil.

0:53:080:53:15

I can remember the mess and the chaos here.

0:53:150:53:17

Finally, in 1991, the first phase of the restoration was completed

0:53:210:53:26

and the garden was opened to the public.

0:53:260:53:29

If we had lost this garden,

0:53:300:53:32

we would have lost one of the most important,

0:53:320:53:35

or perhaps THE most important, garden in garden history.

0:53:350:53:40

It is absolutely of its date.

0:53:400:53:44

It's 1849-1864.

0:53:440:53:47

That's when it was created and it's still here.

0:53:470:53:51

Wow, look at that!

0:53:550:53:57

I don't think I've ever seen it looking so good.

0:54:000:54:03

If you need to justify -

0:54:080:54:10

which you shouldn't really have to justify

0:54:100:54:13

trying to save and restore a beautiful place -

0:54:130:54:16

this is it.

0:54:160:54:18

Today, the garden is Grade I listed

0:54:200:54:23

and its rescue is especially valued by the Biddulph village locals.

0:54:230:54:28

Derek Wheelhouse was amongst those

0:54:280:54:30

who originally campaigned to save the garden.

0:54:300:54:33

He now visits almost every day to keep an eye on things.

0:54:330:54:36

It doesn't matter what the weather's like, it can be snowing, icy,

0:54:380:54:41

rain, Derek will still be here.

0:54:410:54:44

We can be there brushing steps off in the snow

0:54:440:54:46

and Derek comes round the corner.

0:54:460:54:48

-Good morning, Paul.

-Morning! How you doing, Derek?

0:54:480:54:51

-I'm all right, thank you.

-Here again.

-Very, very well.

0:54:510:54:54

When it comes down to what's given me the most pleasure

0:54:540:54:57

during my retirement,

0:54:570:55:00

it's the Grange garden.

0:55:000:55:04

I remember Paul coming here in 1992, didn't you?

0:55:040:55:08

-Yes, that's it. Yeah, yeah.

-Directly from school.

0:55:080:55:11

-We've known each other a while, haven't we?

-Oh, yes.

0:55:110:55:14

I use him a little bit as an advisor, really.

0:55:150:55:18

He sort of gives me his opinion the garden.

0:55:180:55:22

Sometimes we sort of work to that,

0:55:220:55:24

sometimes I say, "Well, we're leaving that for whatever reason."

0:55:240:55:28

But he wants to see Biddulph at its best all the time.

0:55:280:55:32

It's filled so much of my life,

0:55:320:55:34

I don't know what I would've done without it.

0:55:340:55:36

He's a good friend, a very good friend.

0:55:360:55:38

I'm sure if I asked Derek to come and help us

0:55:380:55:40

plant a few bulbs today, he'd come along.

0:55:400:55:43

I think I would do that in the past.

0:55:430:55:46

I think I've got past that stage a little bit.

0:55:460:55:48

THEY LAUGH

0:55:480:55:50

For Derek, the greatest pleasure

0:55:510:55:53

is seeing Biddulph Grange continue to thrive.

0:55:530:55:56

Today, the upper glen is to be reopened to the public

0:56:020:56:06

for the first time in 100 years.

0:56:060:56:08

It's been replanted with ferns, as it was in James Bateman's time,

0:56:080:56:13

together with a new walkway

0:56:130:56:15

being opened by the longest-serving member of the team, Bob.

0:56:150:56:18

The bridge is now officially open.

0:56:190:56:21

CHEERING AND APPLAUSE

0:56:210:56:24

Bateman's garden was every bit a reflection of the Victorian age.

0:56:280:56:32

We can't understand who we are as a society,

0:56:340:56:36

we can't move forward as designers and horticulturalists

0:56:360:56:39

and gardeners unless we appreciate where we've come from,

0:56:390:56:42

what we've learnt and the experiences of our forefathers.

0:56:420:56:46

And that's why Biddulph plays such an important part

0:56:460:56:49

in that jigsaw of horticultural delights that is the British garden.

0:56:490:56:53

It is bold, theatrical, inventive and, above all, hugely original.

0:56:550:57:02

Whilst Bateman would have shuddered at the thought that his garden

0:57:020:57:05

was so nearly lost, its restoration has now secured its future.

0:57:050:57:09

It is a showpiece, it's a showman's garden.

0:57:110:57:14

A garden that is extrovert and introvert in equal measures.

0:57:140:57:19

It entertains, it delights and it poses questions.

0:57:190:57:23

It's a garden that really encourages you to think about what a garden is,

0:57:230:57:29

what part plants play in the garden,

0:57:290:57:31

and what part gardens play

0:57:310:57:34

in our understanding of the much wider world.

0:57:340:57:36

Next time, Nymans in Sussex.

0:57:560:57:58

An extraordinary story of one of the most romantic

0:57:580:58:02

and fashionable gardens of the Edwardian era,

0:58:020:58:04

which came so close to being wiped off the horticultural map.

0:58:040:58:08

It endured, despite the fact that almost every conceivable

0:58:080:58:13

disaster and challenge was thrown at it.

0:58:130:58:16

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