Nymans British Gardens in Time


Nymans

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Four iconic English gardens.

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Each is the product of one moment in history

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and each one gives us a fascinating window into the century

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in which they were made and the people who created them.

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Much more than just a history of gardening,

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these are extraordinary tales of escape, social ambition,

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heartbreak,

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downfall and disaster.

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In unravelling these remarkable stories,

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we reach back over the centuries to see these four great gardens

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through fresh eyes and gain a greater understanding

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of their real significance.

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Nymans is situated on top of a hill

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overlooking the picturesque Sussex Weald.

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The garden is the creation of three generations

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of one highly creative family.

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With its roots in the 19th century,

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Nymans went on to become one of the most fashionable

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and romantic gardens of the Edwardian and interwar years.

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One of the critical transformations that takes place

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in the life of this garden is the change from high Victoriana

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into Edwardian style gardens.

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By the time the Edwardian era came along,

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it was about compartmentalisation, creating spaces that were usable.

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They were human, they were spaces in which to entertain,

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they were spaces in which to socialise.

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The garden's creation is an extraordinary story

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shaped by the most turbulent half century in recent history.

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What fascinates me here is that this garden was created

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by a German family of Jewish descent,

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who not only managed to rise to the top of society in England

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but they also created one of the most quintessential English gardens.

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Nymans garden is spread over a large rural area

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bordered with fields and woodland.

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As well as having grand open parkland with spectacular views,

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there are smaller, more intimate spaces.

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The gardens are both informal and formal.

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And are filled with exuberant plants.

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You don't see the trees that we're seeing today at Nymans

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in parks and towns and cities.

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This is quite a unique collection of trees.

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But at its heart is an extraordinary mysterious Gothic ruin,

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which overlooks the garden, a poignant reminder

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of a disastrous event to hit the family who lived here.

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It endured despite the fact that almost every conceivable disaster

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and challenge was thrown at it.

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Today, the garden is run by the National Trust

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and is one of the most visited in the country.

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It embodies all that we've come to expect of the archetypal English garden

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yet it was created by a so-called foreigner, Ludwig Messel.

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Ludwig's family were successful bankers

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who originated from a small town called Messel in Germany.

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Ludwig Messel, together with his brother, came to London in the 1860s

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in search of further opportunity,

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reputedly with gold coins sewn into their shirts.

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Ludwig was ambitious and had a keen financial mind.

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He founded a successful stockbroking business

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and was part of a new emerging class of wealthy financiers.

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In 1871 he married Annie Cussans and they had six children

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who ranged in 17 years from eldest, Lennie, to youngest, Muriel.

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Ludwig set out to find a house in the country

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to bring up his large family.

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New railways meant the Sussex Weald and neighbouring counties

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became the perfect getaway, soon to be known as the stockbroker belt.

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Land was cheap and plentiful and Ludwig quickly purchased Nymans.

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The Georgian house came with 600 acres including woodland,

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fields, farm cottages and a small four-acre garden.

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Ludwig saw it as the perfect home for his family,

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but it also fulfilled his desire to be accepted by society.

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Historian Andrea Wulf is going to unravel the Messels' life story

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and what prompted them to start a new life in rural Sussex.

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The moment the English countryside or the kind of traditional

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rural life was under threat in the late 19th century,

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that's the moment when the nostalgia for country life begins.

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That's the moment when city dwellers like bankers, merchants,

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stockbrokers, when they come and want to have one of those houses

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in the countryside.

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So the country house becomes a symbol of ancestry,

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of this golden age that is vanishing suddenly.

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Garden designer Chris Beardshaw is exploring why the Messels' new home

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presented great opportunities for creating a garden from scratch.

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The appeal to Ludwig for coming to this space

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must, in part, have been its proximity to London

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but also its relative remoteness.

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The idea that when we sit in this landscape,

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we don't see any towns or villages, so you do feel as though you are

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pioneering in that way.

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And in fact he was pioneering with his design ideas,

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with his horticultural ideas and his horticultural passion,

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so it fits perfectly that he ended up here.

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Ludwig Messel enlarged and altered the existing Georgian house.

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But the real focus of his attention was the garden.

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Even at this early stage, he demonstrated that he had

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hidden horticultural talents.

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Ludwig was undoubtedly a horticultural entrepreneur.

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He was one of those individuals who wanted to create

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something slightly different.

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He was very much on trend, following fashions, leading fashions,

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and the greatest example possibly in this garden,

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the first example is the heath garden.

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The idea that one would introduce heathers and ericaceous specimens

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is something that hadn't occurred to anyone else,

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at least not with that particular range of plants.

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It was that pioneering spirit that meant only he was able to do it.

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He had the knack of being able to spot something different,

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deploy it in the garden and then give it space to breathe.

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Nymans was planted with rare and expensive plants.

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Ludwig's investment was considerable,

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no more so than in his pinetum, which he stocked with newly discovered trees.

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Alan Power is Head Gardener at Stourhead

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and has an unquenchable passion for trees.

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He's come to explore the collection at Nymans which, when planted in 1895,

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was another fashionable item on Ludwig's tick list.

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You've got to get up close to these things

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to really appreciate the scale. Look at the size of that tree.

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These trees weren't just fashionable,

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Ludwig planned they would also act as vital protection

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for his garden from the harsh prevailing winds.

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You could create a shelter belt that would provide this,

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almost a microclimate, all year round and it would protect your garden,

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it would protect the slightly more tender plants.

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But it didn't just perform that function,

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it performed a really curious, beautiful aesthetic function

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in the garden as well that gave you interest around every corner.

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It wasn't a cheap thing to plant a pinetum.

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You know, in modern terms on a young tree you could be spending £300-£400.

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And, you know, when we look at the array of trees that are behind us

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here at Nymans, that £300-£400 adds up pretty quickly.

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He could have spent his money on anything.

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He could have bought buildings, he could have built huge mansions all over the country.

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He chose to spend the money on his passion.

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These trees were his passion.

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Ludwig's big ambitions also included being accepted by the local community,

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but with a name like Messel, it wouldn't be easy.

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When Ludwig Messel arrived here as a German of Jewish descent,

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he must have felt like an outsider, really,

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because at that time there was definitely still, you know,

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quite a bit of anti-Semitism going on here in England.

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For example, take the prime minister, Benjamin Disraeli.

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Jewish descent but then he converts to Christianity.

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Every time there was, kind of, a problem with his politics,

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he was accused as being a Jew, a Shylock, a Fagan,

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Chief Rabbi Benjamin.

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So they were really abusing him

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and they always pulled out the kind of Jewish roots.

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So there are definitely discussions which are carried by anti-Semitism.

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At first, Ludwig found it difficult integrating

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with the local squirearchy, but he had one thing in his favour.

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He discovered that many of them, especially his neighbours,

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shared his love for horticulture.

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This was Ludwig's way in.

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It can't be an accident that a man who was so keen

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to not only stamp his credentials horticulturally,

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but to stamp his credentials from a social and cultural perspective,

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ended up in a neighbourhood surrounded by people

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who he must have admired.

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This small corner of Sussex gave birth to a treasure trove of gardens

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which were all famous in the 1900s

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for a unique Sussex style of woodland gardening.

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Borde Hill, which is just five miles from Nymans,

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is a 200 acre estate, run by four generations of one family

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and is famous for its rare trees.

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Leonardslee, also within a few miles, was celebrated

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for its range of prize winning Rhododendrons and unusual wildlife.

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And High Beeches, which shared a boundary with Nymans,

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was run by the Loder family.

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The Loders were members of an elite gardening dynasty who supported

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great plant hunting expeditions and packed their garden

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with fashionable new specimens.

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The gardens in this particular part of England

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are hugely notorious, they are trendsetters.

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There's a great deal of competition between these gardens

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and to gain that extra notch up, to get a slightly improved cultivar,

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and if you could name it after, perhaps, the gardener,

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the landowner, the designer, the garden itself,

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then so much the better.

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Entering this elite gardening circle

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satisfied both Ludwig's social and horticultural ambitions.

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The friendly rivalry fuelled Nymans' evolution and Ludwig decided

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to start cultivating his own plants, greatly helped by a key personality,

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Nymans' first head gardener, James Coomber.

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One of the key to successes really in creating a garden,

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especially a garden from scratch, is that you have to ally yourself

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with someone who really knows the business

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and knows what to do, to cope with the conditions.

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And so Ludwig allied himself with Coomber who was a man who understood

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how to get plants to perform.

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So what we see is a relationship where you have one person

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full of ideas and ambition and drive, and the other is the facilitator.

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And that is the great secret in a garden like this.

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Ludwig was creating a garden for the long term

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and it was to be shaped and moulded by successive generations of his family.

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Today, Ludwig's great-grandson, Alistair Buchanan,

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is still keenly involved with the garden's development.

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His contribution has been creating a number of sculpted box hedges.

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I created those and that is my legacy to the garden.

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Alistair has a flat on the estate

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and works alongside the National Trust as the family advisor.

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I don't have to pay the wages,

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and I don't give orders.

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But I can suggest and propose

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and I'd like to think that I was a point of continuity.

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Therefore, I would hope to be consulted

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when there are changes and so on. Sometimes I'm not and so on.

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But I accept the level of responsibility

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of keeping the family connected with the National Trust.

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While Ludwig was absorbed with developing the garden,

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his large family of six children had grown up.

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His eldest son, Lennie, was pursuing a beautiful young socialite,

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Maud Sambourne.

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The Sambournes were highly artistic.

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Maud's father, Linley Sambourne, was a Punch cartoonist

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and mixed with a fashionable London set.

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They lived at Stafford Terrace in Kensington,

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which today is preserved as a museum.

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Maud's family wealth didn't remotely match that of the Messels

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but, nevertheless, Lennie was smitten.

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Maud, on the other hand, was less sure of her feelings

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and initially resisted Lennie during a nine-month courtship.

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She spent many weekends down in the country at Nymans,

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relaying her personal thoughts in letters back home.

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These letters are really wonderful because they give us

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a real insight into Maud and what she thinks.

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So there's this funny observant teenager.

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She's very cheeky, she's making fun of them being German,

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and there's, again and again it kind of pops up in her letters.

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And there's one which I find very funny because I'm German

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and I always get teased for being very punctual,

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where she says "We are dreadfully regular.

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"Everyone comes down the minute the second bell rings.

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"Breakfast at eight sharp, to the minute.

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"Lunch at three, also sharp, to the minute."

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You know, this is just a slightly stroppy teenager making fun

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of what she sees, but also describes very well

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what they're doing every day.

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And what she describes is this very typical life

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of the wealthy at that time,

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which is one big round of garden parties, there's tennis,

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there's croquet, photographed in sunshine and everybody's happy

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and beautifully dressed.

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And this is exactly what Maud is presenting in her letters here.

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Eventually, Maud fell under Nymans' romantic spell

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and agreed to marry Lennie.

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She's said to have finally accepted his proposal to her in the garden.

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Their marriage would combine Lennie's huge wealth

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with Maud's creativity and a shared love for the garden.

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So far, Ludwig's ambitions to establish his family

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at the heart of English society was paying dividends.

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I think that Ludwig did everything according to the rule book, really.

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So he creates this image of England here at Nymans.

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He sends children, his boys to Eton

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and he hangs out with the right people.

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So he is really moving up in English society and when you look around,

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I think he was pretty successful with what he is trying to do.

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But the birth of Maud's first child prompted her to express some observations

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about the family she'd married into.

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There's a letter where she's just had her first son, Linley,

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and she's again writing a letter to her mother, who is in London.

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"I feel quite annoyed at it being a boy," so her son being a boy.

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"I only hope it will turn out a fair haired blue or grey eyed youth

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"with a loyal feeling to his mother's side of the family.

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"If he dares to have dark hair, well, I shall dye it golden."

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She makes it very clear she wants her children to look like her,

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not like her husband.

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The family thrived on country living.

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Lennie's youngest sister, Muriel, developed a keen interest

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in one area of the garden which today is the centrepiece at Nymans,

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the herbaceous border,

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a key component in any serious English garden.

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And for Ludwig, a fashionable must-have on his tick list.

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This year, the garden team have completely re-worked them

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and after months of detailed planning,

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several thousand plants are carefully bedded out.

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100 years ago, the borders were influenced by young Muriel.

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She was horticulturally very gifted and her first ideas were shaped

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with the help of a big name in the gardening world, William Robinson.

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Muriel was said to be guided by the great William Robinson,

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who, of course, is a most influential individual.

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Somewhat curmudgeonly, very clear in his opinions

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on how gardens should be presented.

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He wanted to reintroduce nature, he wanted to really allow nature

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to sweep right into the heart of the garden.

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He wanted the informality of trees and woodland

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and meadow to offer that curtain, that backdrop to the border,

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and it's that marriage between informality and relative formality

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which Robinson was so carefully crafting at that time.

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Robinson was reacting against the highly formal planting schemes

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of the mid-Victorian era which favoured flat groups

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of densely planted perennials picked out like the patterns of a carpet.

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His vision was of borders that could be spectacular masterpieces

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in three dimensions.

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These are the centrepiece of Nymans, really.

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It's very theatrical.

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You've got the fountain, the arch and it sort of adds theatre and drama

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as you walk into this area.

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Sadly, Muriel Messel didn't reach her 30th birthday.

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She fell victim to the deadly influenza pandemic

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which killed a quarter of a million people in Britain.

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Her legacy, though, is now the crowning glory at Nymans.

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It's lovely, because it all goes out in one go

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and it's just a good effect at the end of the day.

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You definitely have to wear your sunglasses when you come down this section of the garden,

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because it's a bit like an '80s disco. We love it.

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In the 1890s, one of the critical elements of a garden

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on the tick list of ingredients

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was undoubtedly the herbaceous border.

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It's a very new concept, it's a new idea.

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Putting plants together, weaving them, creating a tapestry,

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using plants from around the Empire.

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But it becomes the ultimate expression of control, manipulation

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and artistry within the confines of horticulture.

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And it is that impact, that high impact and drama that was demanded,

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that was the role of the herbaceous border,

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to draw you through the site, and it is like a theatrical performance.

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In 1890, when Messel first came here and set out his plans

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for a grand landscape and grand park and garden,

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I don't think he would ever have contemplated that a few years hence

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it would be open to the public and it would be treated as a public park.

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I'm sure he would have appreciated how many people

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come in through the gates and marvel at what he was able to achieve.

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Ludwig created Nymans during a period that marked a change

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in the way that people thought about their gardens.

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The Messels made full use of Nymans as a focal point

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for endless garden parties and social events.

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It was something of a halcyon era but it wasn't to last.

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Momentous social and political changes

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would ruffle wealthy families like the Messels.

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The most extraordinary thing, I think,

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is Lloyd George's People's Budget.

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He introduces that in 1909 and this is the very first time in Britain

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that there's a serious attempt to redistribute wealth.

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So this is a budget which includes taxing the rich,

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there is insurance for unemployed people,

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there is old age pensions.

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The death duty again is increased.

0:24:090:24:12

So this is really why it's called the People's Budget.

0:24:120:24:14

This is taking away power and wealth from the nobility

0:24:140:24:19

and from the upper classes.

0:24:190:24:21

This is the end of how the world used to be

0:24:210:24:25

and it scared people like the Messels.

0:24:250:24:27

There is an amazing photograph here in this album,

0:24:270:24:30

which is titled The Budget.

0:24:300:24:34

And on this picture, this is clearly taken in Nymans, in the garden,

0:24:340:24:39

you see roses in the background, you see one of the family members

0:24:390:24:43

a woman all dressed up nicely,

0:24:430:24:45

is standing on a piece of paper which is clearly the budget,

0:24:450:24:49

trampling on it.

0:24:490:24:51

So they do not like what the Chancellor Lloyd George

0:24:510:24:55

is doing there with this budget because it's going to change their world.

0:24:550:24:59

This is... These are the last moments of this world.

0:24:590:25:02

However strong the family's reaction, they were not prepared

0:25:030:25:07

for a far bigger event that would have much more serious implications.

0:25:070:25:10

When war broke out in 1914,

0:25:150:25:18

Ludwig found his loyalties were torn in two.

0:25:180:25:21

He had relatives back in Germany and although he'd lived in England

0:25:210:25:24

for over 50 years, he still spoke with a German accent.

0:25:240:25:28

There is a moment in May 1915 when this anti-German sentiment

0:25:310:25:36

really comes to a height,

0:25:360:25:38

which is when the Germans, without warning, sink a passenger ship.

0:25:380:25:43

1,200 people die and there are riots all over the country.

0:25:430:25:47

So it must have been pretty awful for Ludwig

0:25:490:25:51

in his kind of English lovely bubble here at Nymans.

0:25:510:25:55

And it's so bad at that time that even the king, George V,

0:25:550:25:59

thinks that he has to become more English, and he cuts all ties

0:25:590:26:03

to his German relatives.

0:26:030:26:06

He changes the very German sounding name of the royal family,

0:26:060:26:10

Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, into the House of Windsor.

0:26:100:26:14

This is when it starts,

0:26:140:26:15

so even the king thinks that he is too German at that time.

0:26:150:26:19

Ludwig's son, Lennie, had studied at Oxford,

0:26:220:26:24

even enrolling in the British Army,

0:26:240:26:26

but it wasn't enough to prevent the family being viewed with suspicion.

0:26:260:26:30

I think it must have been an absolute terrible time for him

0:26:340:26:37

because he tried so much to be English

0:26:370:26:40

and suddenly it just percolated down to this one thing, he is German.

0:26:400:26:44

In 1915 Ludwig died, heartbroken.

0:26:450:26:49

During the war years, gardens up and down the country

0:27:020:27:04

withered with neglect, but Nymans was more fortunate.

0:27:040:27:09

Because of the family's German connections, Lennie was debarred

0:27:090:27:13

from serving overseas.

0:27:130:27:14

Instead he was based close by, training up young soldiers

0:27:140:27:17

so he was able to prevent the garden from suffering.

0:27:170:27:20

Lennie took Nymans over after his father's death.

0:27:240:27:27

But he was surprised when his wife, Maud, declared her distaste

0:27:270:27:30

for the house and wept bitterly at the thought of having to move in.

0:27:300:27:34

Lennie found a solution,

0:27:350:27:36

promising Maud she could completely remodel it.

0:27:360:27:39

The house we see today is very, very different to the house

0:27:440:27:48

that Ludwig Messel moved into and extended.

0:27:480:27:50

So if you look at the photograph, you can see a house

0:27:530:27:57

which his daughter-in-law later called a hideous German folly,

0:27:570:28:01

and I kind of agree with her a little bit.

0:28:010:28:03

So her condition for moving here was that she would be allowed

0:28:030:28:07

to completely re-build the building.

0:28:070:28:10

What Maud is doing here is, she is creating an atmosphere

0:28:130:28:17

of a family which has been here for centuries and centuries and centuries.

0:28:170:28:22

They are part of England

0:28:220:28:23

and they have been part of England for a very, very long time.

0:28:230:28:27

So she's not just moving back 100 years or a couple of hundred years,

0:28:270:28:31

she's moving back centuries and centuries.

0:28:310:28:33

For Maud, this successfully rooted her young family.

0:28:360:28:40

Nymans' rebirth was on a grand scale.

0:28:400:28:43

It had a great hall, a billiard room,

0:28:430:28:46

a library and numerous bedrooms.

0:28:460:28:48

The old German folly had been transformed but at huge cost.

0:28:500:28:53

Well, it was never going to be a practical house.

0:28:550:28:57

It needed a great many servants.

0:28:570:29:00

The heating problems, the servant problems,

0:29:000:29:02

it was totally impractical.

0:29:020:29:04

I would have said it was a colossal waste of family money.

0:29:060:29:09

When they start building it in 1923,

0:29:130:29:17

England is hit in post-war depression.

0:29:170:29:20

So you have, for example, the 9th Duke of Devonshire in Chatsworth,

0:29:200:29:25

once one of the wealthiest families in the country,

0:29:250:29:29

is deciding to blow up the great conservatory in Chatsworth

0:29:290:29:32

because he can't afford to heat it any more.

0:29:320:29:34

So you have the banker here, the kind of nouveau riche,

0:29:340:29:38

creating this folly

0:29:380:29:41

which gives them this link to England's past,

0:29:410:29:46

which tells the story of continuity and very firmly places them

0:29:460:29:50

into this golden age of when everything was still in order

0:29:500:29:55

and land was power.

0:29:550:29:57

To remodel the architecture so that it appeared

0:30:020:30:05

as if the architecture had perhaps been here longer than the garden,

0:30:050:30:10

and the garden had flowed and was inspired by the architecture itself,

0:30:100:30:14

I think was an absolute work of genius.

0:30:140:30:16

It's something that really makes this garden stand out from any other.

0:30:160:30:21

The bravery to say this isn't working but this piece is,

0:30:210:30:25

let's change this.

0:30:250:30:27

Maud hoped this costly refiguring would get the recognition

0:30:310:30:34

she felt it deserved.

0:30:340:30:36

She got her answer when Country Life wrote a glowing article about Nymans

0:30:360:30:41

after the alterations were completed.

0:30:410:30:43

The Messels have really arrived in England.

0:30:460:30:49

Their house is part of the English tradition.

0:30:490:30:52

There's a wonderful sentence here.

0:30:520:30:55

"So clever a reproduction it is of a building begun in the 14th century

0:30:550:31:00

"and added to intermittently till Tudor times,

0:31:000:31:03

"that some future antiquary may well be deceived by it."

0:31:030:31:08

So I think Maud would have been very proud opening this,

0:31:080:31:11

seeing on the first page that she did such a good job,

0:31:110:31:15

that someone in the future might be deceived by it.

0:31:150:31:17

Everything perfect, just as she wanted it.

0:31:170:31:20

The alterations meant the romantic house and garden

0:31:250:31:29

now complemented each other perfectly.

0:31:290:31:31

Lennie and Maud's influence in the garden pushed it

0:31:310:31:34

to the top of fashionable gardens to visit

0:31:340:31:37

and escalated Nymans' reputation.

0:31:370:31:39

The pinetum had some rare species that were credited as the tallest in the country

0:31:410:31:46

and Nymans won the coveted Cory Cup for a new hybrid -

0:31:460:31:50

eucryphia nymansensis.

0:31:500:31:52

There's a great deal of celebration attached to the gardens

0:31:540:31:57

and the plants associated with the Messels,

0:31:570:32:00

and of course, many are hugely valuable

0:32:000:32:03

in the horticultural world today and persist in our gardens.

0:32:030:32:07

Lennie inherited his father's desire to be rooted in English society.

0:32:080:32:13

He successfully cultivated numerous plants which still thrive today.

0:32:130:32:17

The Messel name became synonymous with good horticulture,

0:32:170:32:21

winning prestigious prizes at the Royal Horticultural Society.

0:32:210:32:24

To be accepted by any royal society is a great mark of one's achievement

0:32:260:32:31

climbing socially.

0:32:310:32:33

And to be accepted by the Royal Horticultural Society,

0:32:330:32:36

well, it was the ultimate accolade. They've made it.

0:32:360:32:39

By the 1930s, the garden and family were at their peak.

0:32:410:32:45

Lennie and Maud's youngest son, Oliver Messel,

0:32:530:32:56

was emerging as a creative genius in the world of theatre.

0:32:560:33:00

He would go on to be the most celebrated designer in stage and film.

0:33:030:33:07

Many of Oliver's designs were said to be inspired

0:33:090:33:12

by his upbringing at Nymans and the theatricality of the garden.

0:33:120:33:15

Together with his sister, Anne, they were part of the fashionable

0:33:180:33:22

Bright Young Things.

0:33:220:33:23

Anne had two marriages.

0:33:250:33:27

Her son from the first marriage, Anthony Armstrong-Jones,

0:33:270:33:30

carried on the family creative streak,

0:33:300:33:33

becoming one of the country's best known fashion and portrait photographers.

0:33:330:33:36

And the family's rise reached a pinnacle

0:33:380:33:40

when Anthony married royalty, becoming Lord Snowdon.

0:33:400:33:43

But on her second marriage, Anne scaled new social heights herself,

0:33:460:33:50

becoming a countess by marrying Michael Parsons,

0:33:500:33:54

the 6th Earl of Rosse and moving to Ireland to live at Birr Castle.

0:33:540:33:57

This created a marriage of two great gardens,

0:33:590:34:02

which still continues today.

0:34:020:34:04

Anne and the Earl of Ross's eldest son, William Parsons,

0:34:120:34:15

inherited the estate and title in 1979.

0:34:150:34:19

He has continued with the family tradition

0:34:190:34:22

of being a very keen gardener just as his parents were.

0:34:220:34:25

This portrait here is of my parents

0:34:270:34:30

set, rather romantically, in the garden of Birr

0:34:300:34:35

with my parents in that lovely attire,

0:34:350:34:38

dressed, though, very much for gardening,

0:34:380:34:41

as you can see from the little pair of secateurs

0:34:410:34:45

and the tiny little fork at the bottom.

0:34:450:34:48

It's lovely, I think, bringing together

0:34:480:34:50

something of my mother's creativity and passion,

0:34:500:34:53

my parents' passion for fashion and dress, with real love for gardening.

0:34:530:34:58

Anne's talent for gardening was no doubt inspired

0:35:000:35:03

by her upbringing at Nymans.

0:35:030:35:06

She was a skilled horticulturalist

0:35:060:35:08

and quickly made her mark in the gardens at Birr.

0:35:080:35:10

These cloisters were designed in greater detail

0:35:120:35:16

by my mother, very much on the back of an envelope,

0:35:160:35:20

as a cloister with these windows looking in to the great urns,

0:35:200:35:25

that are baroque urns that come from Bavaria.

0:35:250:35:29

No element of the gardens here has, I'm afraid, ever been designed

0:35:290:35:33

by any professional garden designer.

0:35:330:35:35

It's always been designed by the members of the family

0:35:350:35:39

in each generation in turn.

0:35:390:35:41

Evidence of Anne's creativity is unmistakable in the archives at Birr.

0:35:430:35:47

House manager at Nymans, Rebecca Graham, has come to Birr

0:35:480:35:51

to learn more about Anne's skills as a designer and horticulturalist.

0:35:510:35:55

Birr's got such an amazing archive

0:35:560:35:58

and it's got two whole sections devoted to the Messel family.

0:35:580:36:02

So for us at Nymans, we've got a certain amount,

0:36:020:36:04

but nothing like what's here.

0:36:040:36:07

I'm interested in Anne and to have her sketches and see them,

0:36:070:36:10

and also to see the finished article either in the garden

0:36:100:36:14

or in the house, is just amazing.

0:36:140:36:17

The relationship between the gardens at Birr Castle and Nymans was fruitful.

0:36:210:36:26

Philip Holmes, acting head gardener at Nymans, visits Birr every year

0:36:280:36:33

to ensure this close connection continues to thrive.

0:36:330:36:36

This is a wonderful wisteria.

0:36:410:36:43

The way it's been trained in this sort of dome fashion is amazing.

0:36:430:36:46

The scent is very heady and just hark at the bees.

0:36:460:36:51

It's very important to keep a link with the family

0:36:530:36:57

and also over the years, we've exchanged plants.

0:36:570:37:00

Nymans has sent a number of the plants which were raised there

0:37:000:37:04

and named after either the family at Nymans or the garden itself.

0:37:040:37:08

We've exchanged here with Birr and vice versa.

0:37:080:37:12

Birr is especially well-known for its rare tree collection

0:37:260:37:30

but William's real love is for exotic plants.

0:37:300:37:33

If we can get underneath.

0:37:350:37:37

The beauty of this Birr sensation, as it's now called,

0:37:390:37:43

is that its flowers are basically purple

0:37:430:37:47

but round the edge of the purple, this is edged with white.

0:37:470:37:52

And other people sometimes are prone to joke about this as being

0:37:520:37:57

the floral equivalent of a good head to an Irish pint of Guinness.

0:37:570:38:03

Lord Rosse has travelled the world to satisfy his thirst

0:38:070:38:10

for plant collecting, but he only recently discovered that

0:38:100:38:13

a consuming passion for collecting is actually a family trait.

0:38:130:38:17

From the age of seven, I'd started collecting coins.

0:38:180:38:21

I'd been given a coin of William the Conqueror and it started me

0:38:210:38:25

in my own desire to go on collecting not only coins, but plants.

0:38:250:38:31

Plants from all over the world.

0:38:310:38:32

I had a passion for collecting,

0:38:320:38:35

which I now realise is very much a Jewish tradition

0:38:350:38:38

and was inherited.

0:38:380:38:41

But that word was never used.

0:38:410:38:43

The Jewish connection was of course never used in conversation with us.

0:38:430:38:48

But it's made me realise, for instance,

0:38:480:38:51

that I'm every bit as proud to be a Messel descendant

0:38:510:38:54

as a Parsons descendant.

0:38:540:38:55

Lord Rosse spent time at Nymans during the war years

0:38:590:39:01

when he was a boy.

0:39:010:39:03

Now, Rebecca, let's see what you've been finding.

0:39:040:39:08

I don't remember ever seeing that before.

0:39:090:39:12

I do remember being fascinated by the snow at Nymans as a small child.

0:39:120:39:18

What does that say, Rebecca? Can you read that?

0:39:180:39:22

-William in the snow.

-Yes, it is! It is me!

0:39:230:39:26

Goodness, thank you for discovering that!

0:39:260:39:28

I've never seen myself in the snow at Nymans before!

0:39:290:39:33

That's a real finding. Lovely. Thank you so much.

0:39:330:39:36

You're very welcome.

0:39:360:39:38

In 1947, Britain was gripped by the worst winter on record.

0:39:530:39:58

Nymans didn't escape the snow

0:40:000:40:02

and the bitter cold enveloped the entire house.

0:40:020:40:04

A plumber with a blowlamp was on hand to thaw the frozen pipes.

0:40:100:40:14

In February 1947, in the night of Lennie's 75th birthday,

0:40:170:40:23

he's lying in bed, he's recovering from a minor operation,

0:40:230:40:26

and he wakes to see his room filled with smoke.

0:40:260:40:30

When the fire brigade arrives, they find that the pipes are frozen

0:40:330:40:38

so they have to get the water from the pond below the house.

0:40:380:40:41

So they're standing outside in the deep snow, cold, old, frail.

0:40:410:40:47

Lennie and Maud just watching the flames licking away their house.

0:40:470:40:51

It must have been heart-breaking for them.

0:40:510:40:54

No matter how hard the firemen fought,

0:40:540:40:56

there was little they could do to save the house.

0:40:560:40:59

It was filled with their treasures which they had collected all their life

0:41:020:41:07

so of course they wanted to rescue some of it

0:41:070:41:09

and the person who did that was the butler.

0:41:090:41:12

I mean, you look at the pictures,

0:41:120:41:13

it's just a tiny little pile of furniture, not much,

0:41:130:41:16

most of it just burnt to the ground.

0:41:160:41:19

This house was filled with treasures.

0:41:220:41:26

Lennie had a very valuable painting, a Valeska painting,

0:41:260:41:30

which was in the library above the fireplace.

0:41:300:41:33

There is a very touching story about this painting,

0:41:330:41:36

because during the fire, there was very little time

0:41:360:41:40

to rescue the valuable treasures in this house,

0:41:400:41:43

and there was a choice.

0:41:430:41:44

The choice was between this very expensive painting

0:41:440:41:48

and then a painting of Lennie's mother,

0:41:480:41:50

which only really had sentimental value for them.

0:41:500:41:53

In the end they chose Lennie's mother.

0:41:530:41:55

The house was uninhabitable.

0:41:570:42:00

Lennie and Maud found temporary accommodation close by

0:42:000:42:03

to recuperate and gather their thoughts.

0:42:030:42:05

They lost many possessions, but the one that meant the world to Lennie

0:42:070:42:11

was completely destroyed - his collection of rare botanical books.

0:42:110:42:16

The terrible news spread quickly to the rest of the family.

0:42:190:42:22

I was at school in Oxford when I had news of the fire

0:42:240:42:29

in a letter from my mother saying the greatest tragedy in the world

0:42:290:42:33

had happened, Nymans had been burnt.

0:42:330:42:35

She'd rushed down to be with my grandparents there at Nymans...

0:42:350:42:40

..and how terribly difficult it was to organise anything

0:42:420:42:46

or sort out anything because the snow was still very, very, very deep.

0:42:460:42:51

And how obviously heartbroken my mother was

0:42:520:42:56

at the loss of her own great family home.

0:42:560:43:00

The botanical collection of books...

0:43:000:43:03

..went completely. What a tragedy that was.

0:43:050:43:07

The house had undergone its remodelling barely 20 years previously

0:43:090:43:13

and now a large part was reduced to rubble.

0:43:130:43:16

Ironically, this only served to enhance

0:43:170:43:20

the garden's romantic appeal.

0:43:200:43:22

If their aim and ambition was to create a piece of the Gothic ruin,

0:43:250:43:30

a piece of Gothic romanticism, a baroque castle,

0:43:300:43:35

what better way of demonstrating it than a genuine ruin?

0:43:350:43:38

And so, rather perversely, the fire is also responsible

0:43:380:43:42

for heightening the romance that they so much sought.

0:43:420:43:45

Despite the disaster, Lennie and Maud made the extraordinary decision

0:43:470:43:51

to keep the garden going

0:43:510:43:53

and over the intervening decades the garden continued to thrive

0:43:530:43:57

and attract critical acclaim.

0:43:570:43:59

And today it still draws family members who visit regularly.

0:44:000:44:04

Victoria is one of Lennie's grandchildren.

0:44:070:44:10

Smells peppery.

0:44:110:44:13

Victoria inherited the Messel creative gene

0:44:130:44:16

with a talent for painting and an interest in botany.

0:44:160:44:19

Over the years she's recorded a vital botanical archive

0:44:200:44:24

by painting the garden's rare plants,

0:44:240:44:26

which were specially named after members of the family.

0:44:260:44:30

Like rhododendron Leonard Messel.

0:44:300:44:32

Camellia Maud Messel.

0:44:360:44:38

And a magnolia named after their daughter, Anne.

0:44:400:44:43

Victoria's improvised studio was in the old dovecote.

0:44:480:44:51

It feels like home.

0:44:540:44:56

You get really good light here.

0:44:560:44:58

You might not think it but it's excellent. Very, very good light.

0:44:580:45:02

Much of Victoria's early childhood was spent at Nymans during the war years.

0:45:030:45:08

She had free rein of the garden which was her playground.

0:45:080:45:12

My nanny, I think, Miss Lorton who took the photograph.

0:45:140:45:17

I was just posed, as the Messels do, we pose.

0:45:170:45:21

The little dress Victoria wore is still intact in the Nymans' archive,

0:45:230:45:27

including one small blemish.

0:45:270:45:29

The colour has kept, hasn't it? It's amazing.

0:45:310:45:33

Now then, I don't think that would fit me much at the moment.

0:45:370:45:40

I love the colours, the clashing colours.

0:45:400:45:42

An amazing orange and the pink.

0:45:420:45:45

I was given some chocolate ice cream for being so good

0:45:470:45:50

and putting this on and being photographed.

0:45:500:45:52

So then I had the chocolate ice cream and spilt it all down the front.

0:45:520:45:55

There, all the way down, that was chocolate ice cream.

0:45:550:45:59

It is lovely it still has the chocolate stain on it

0:45:590:46:02

-because it just shows the whole story.

-How bloody greedy I was!

0:46:020:46:06

They had to bribe me to put it on!

0:46:060:46:08

In 1953, Lennie Messel died.

0:46:150:46:18

It heralded an end of an era.

0:46:180:46:21

The family fortunes had dwindled after the war

0:46:210:46:24

and with no one family member able to take on the running of Nymans,

0:46:240:46:28

it was willed to the National Trust.

0:46:280:46:30

Lennie's daughter, Anne, returned from Ireland

0:46:360:46:39

and lived on the estate at Nymans as the first family advisor.

0:46:390:46:43

She was passionate about the garden

0:46:430:46:45

and continued to shape and influence it.

0:46:450:46:48

The courtyard garden was one area

0:46:510:46:52

where she particularly liked to spend time in her advancing years.

0:46:520:46:57

While the rest of Nymans was open to the public,

0:46:580:47:01

this area was closed for her privacy.

0:47:010:47:03

Nevertheless, she found it wasn't always easy working alongside

0:47:040:47:08

the new owners, the National Trust.

0:47:080:47:10

You had to admire her spirit,

0:47:110:47:14

but she wasn't a good person to get into a dispute with.

0:47:140:47:18

She modelled herself, so to speak, on the Queen Mother

0:47:180:47:21

and if I was pushing her round the garden in a wheelchair

0:47:210:47:24

she'd be waving to the public, "Good morning, how nice to see you",

0:47:240:47:28

and so on. Not my style, but it was very much her style.

0:47:280:47:32

I used to hear her muttering,

0:47:330:47:35

"It's all mine, it all happens to belong to me",

0:47:350:47:40

which it didn't, of course, but that was her approach.

0:47:400:47:43

Alistair took over as family garden advisor after Anne became frail.

0:47:440:47:48

But he'd only been in the role two days when yet another disaster

0:47:490:47:53

hit Nymans, this time one that would threaten the future of the garden.

0:47:530:47:58

Earlier on today, apparently, a woman rang the BBC and said

0:47:580:48:00

she heard there's a hurricane on the way. Well, if you're watching,

0:48:000:48:03

don't worry, there isn't, but having said that, actually, the weather...

0:48:030:48:06

South East England was hit by winds gusting over 80mph.

0:48:090:48:12

I was astonished to see a television photograph

0:48:160:48:20

taken by a helicopter of a wood where every single tree

0:48:200:48:25

had been blown flat.

0:48:250:48:27

It looked like a box of matches had been just sprinkled,

0:48:270:48:30

all lying in the same direction.

0:48:300:48:32

I walked into the garden and hoping that the pinetum would be OK.

0:48:350:48:40

To my absolute horror, I wasn't looking out onto the pinetum,

0:48:400:48:43

I was looking out onto farm buildings.

0:48:430:48:46

There was just two big sequoias left, and that was it.

0:48:460:48:51

Philip Holmes, Nymans' acting head gardener,

0:48:570:48:59

was a young member of the National Trust team in 1987.

0:48:590:49:03

He rushed to Nymans to discover it had taken the full force of the storm with devastating results.

0:49:030:49:09

What did it look like on that morning?

0:49:100:49:12

Well, it was like a battlefield really.

0:49:120:49:14

A bit like those photographs you see of the Somme.

0:49:140:49:17

Just skeleton trees where they'd been thrashed to pieces by the wind,

0:49:170:49:20

and then there were trees lying on the ground,

0:49:200:49:23

great big root plates had come up, you know.

0:49:230:49:25

And they'd crushed many of the smaller trees beneath them

0:49:250:49:28

which was quite heartbreaking.

0:49:280:49:30

We lost virtually all the trees in this area.

0:49:300:49:33

The storm left Nymans in a very sorry state.

0:49:370:49:40

Hundreds of rare specimens planted during the last 100 years

0:49:400:49:44

were ripped from the ground in a matter of minutes.

0:49:440:49:47

You must have been itching to know what the garden looked like.

0:49:470:49:51

I was. I knew the monkey puzzle on the main lawn had gone down

0:49:510:49:54

because from where I lived you could see it on the skyline,

0:49:540:49:57

and its distinctive rounded top shape was missing from the skyline, was gone.

0:49:570:50:01

And that was a great shame because that was getting on for 100 years old.

0:50:010:50:05

After the great storm,

0:50:060:50:08

I wondered whether we would ever be able to open again.

0:50:080:50:12

We'd lost 486 trees that night.

0:50:120:50:15

Despite the devastation the unexpected bonus

0:50:160:50:19

was the storm had opened the garden up.

0:50:190:50:22

Areas that had become dense and overgrown

0:50:220:50:25

now had a chance to breathe new life.

0:50:250:50:28

Alan Power, head gardener at Stourhead,

0:50:330:50:36

is going to take a closer look to see how one sequoia

0:50:360:50:39

managed to survive the storm.

0:50:390:50:41

This is one of the most exciting trees.

0:50:430:50:45

When they were first discovered they estimated that the trees

0:50:470:50:50

were touching, if not exceeding, 400 feet tall and that is remarkable.

0:50:500:50:56

Some of the tallest trees in the world.

0:50:560:50:59

A really, really important tree on our planet.

0:50:590:51:01

So I'm right at the top of this sequoia and, blimey, what a view!

0:51:050:51:09

That really is quite amazing.

0:51:090:51:11

From where I am, this tree's the first thing that the wind hits,

0:51:160:51:20

and, you know, it's maybe 120, 130 years old,

0:51:200:51:25

and to have experienced two or three big storm events in its life,

0:51:250:51:30

it only gave up once.

0:51:300:51:32

And this scar tells the whole story.

0:51:330:51:35

There will have been one point that the rhythm of the gusts

0:51:370:51:40

and the rhythm of the wind in relation to the tree,

0:51:400:51:43

and when they were both working together that rhythm was broken.

0:51:430:51:47

It's just the point at which the tree went "bang".

0:51:470:51:50

So the story doesn't finish at the scar.

0:51:520:51:55

There's opportunities for the tree that came after the storm

0:51:550:51:58

and this is the tree's response.

0:51:580:52:01

So it leads from the scar and it goes on off into the distance.

0:52:030:52:07

Seeing the way it responded after the storm is...it just indicates

0:52:070:52:12

how determined the tree was to survive,

0:52:120:52:15

in the same way as the family went on to survive and be successful.

0:52:150:52:19

After the storm, Nymans had the chance to start afresh.

0:52:220:52:26

This process of re-invigoration and restoration continues.

0:52:260:52:30

The sunken garden is one of this year's big projects.

0:52:320:52:35

Well, this used to be all old camellias around this site,

0:52:380:52:42

and we decided that many of them,

0:52:420:52:44

because they started to look rather old and untidy,

0:52:440:52:47

we would clear them out and have a fresh start.

0:52:470:52:50

Changes have to happen.

0:52:520:52:54

The sunk garden is being re-imagined,

0:52:550:52:58

drawing from photographs from the 1930s.

0:52:580:53:01

This careful balance between progress and preservation

0:53:010:53:05

is watched over by Alistair Buchanan.

0:53:050:53:08

-I think that would be of the mid-1930s.

-Do you?

0:53:080:53:11

There's Coomber, definitely standing like that.

0:53:110:53:15

-That, I think, could be Uncle Lennie.

-Yes.

0:53:150:53:19

And of course it shows the old myrtle plants which used to grow

0:53:190:53:21

against the face of this building, which we're going to reinstate.

0:53:210:53:25

Restorations of gardens like this are key to their survival.

0:53:320:53:37

Restoration doesn't mean that you're halting progress,

0:53:370:53:41

at least not in the sense of Nymans.

0:53:410:53:44

Restoration means that you're being consistent

0:53:440:53:47

and you're remaining pure to the original ethos, philosophy

0:53:470:53:50

and concept of the designer.

0:53:500:53:52

And for Messel it was certainly about constant investigation,

0:53:520:53:57

exploration and advancement of his garden.

0:53:570:53:59

An example of this progress is the new South African bed,

0:54:020:54:06

which has been designed by garden team member Kirsten Kelly.

0:54:060:54:10

So this bed used to be known as the "wild bed" to the Messels.

0:54:120:54:15

So what we've done is introduce the South African collection,

0:54:150:54:18

put it in the wild bed and we've now got a South African meadow.

0:54:180:54:22

It's quite exciting.

0:54:220:54:23

By late August the South African plants are soaking up the sunshine.

0:54:290:54:34

The whole idea was to kind of have a low planting,

0:54:380:54:40

to not interrupt that beautiful view over there

0:54:400:54:43

but to attract the viewer's attention to it.

0:54:430:54:45

So how many of the plants that you've utilized in here

0:54:450:54:48

would Messel have tried previously on this site?

0:54:480:54:51

Well, we know quite a few details, because they were definitely

0:54:510:54:55

growing melianthus major at the time and that's quite an interesting plant

0:54:550:54:59

because it's supposed to be evergreen and here it's cut back by the frost

0:54:590:55:03

and then it reshoots every year.

0:55:030:55:04

And much more familiar to us today than it would, of course, have been in his day.

0:55:040:55:08

I think one of the lovely things about these gardens is it gives you

0:55:080:55:11

permission to create really quite brash, colourful combinations

0:55:110:55:15

as you do in the herbaceous border, as Muriel would have been

0:55:150:55:18

very familiar with in the herbaceous border.

0:55:180:55:20

And here you are reintroducing colour combinations

0:55:200:55:22

that on paper shouldn't work together.

0:55:220:55:26

I think the beauty of Nymans is that the Messels were experimenters,

0:55:260:55:29

they were innovators

0:55:290:55:31

and it's testing something new and that's what they did.

0:55:310:55:33

The beautiful thing is it's our responsibility to protect

0:55:330:55:36

the legacy, but it's also our responsibility to try new things,

0:55:360:55:39

and that's why Nymans is exciting.

0:55:390:55:41

It's become an annual tradition that the Messel family

0:55:500:55:53

still gather at Nymans to remember and reflect on Ludwig's legacy.

0:55:530:55:58

It's glorious being back at Nymans

0:56:090:56:12

and being back at Nymans for such a great family reunion.

0:56:120:56:17

But it's certainly true that gardens can never stand still.

0:56:180:56:21

Gardens either grow or they go back, sadly recede

0:56:210:56:26

and they need to be reinvigorated.

0:56:260:56:29

But what is essential, I think, is to keep something

0:56:290:56:33

of the original vision of the person who's created the garden.

0:56:330:56:36

For me, the legacy of Nymans is very much the principal

0:56:400:56:45

of understanding the celebratory nature

0:56:450:56:48

in which the garden was established.

0:56:480:56:50

That sense of fun and theatre, enjoyment and romanticism

0:56:500:56:53

and that's what we see crafted out of the landscape before us.

0:56:530:56:57

It's wonderful to see the family today,

0:56:570:57:00

even though they're slightly more distant,

0:57:000:57:02

maintaining a close interest

0:57:020:57:05

in how this garden continues to move forwards.

0:57:050:57:08

I think Ludwig, my great-grandfather, would be pleased.

0:57:110:57:15

I'm of an age now where I shall be meeting up with him

0:57:150:57:19

fairly soon no doubt, and I'll find out.

0:57:190:57:22

I think my great-grandfather Ludwig's spirit will always

0:57:260:57:30

be in the garden somewhere, even if you don't see it,

0:57:300:57:33

hovering there on Phillip's shoulders.

0:57:330:57:37

One of the most intriguing aspects of this for me has been

0:57:410:57:44

that this is a story about a family, driven by ambition,

0:57:440:57:48

incredibly creative, who arrived here as outsiders

0:57:480:57:51

and then rose through the ranks of society

0:57:510:57:54

and built the most quintessential English garden.

0:57:540:57:58

What a triumph.

0:57:580:58:00

Three, two, one, cheese!

0:58:050:58:08

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