Episode 1 Pembrokeshire: Coastal Lives

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path.

For 186 miles, it winds its way through secret coves,

past majestic beaches

and over awe-inspiring cliffs.

It regenerates our batteries cos you can get out of the rat race

and you can just walk.

God's own country here.

I'm very lucky.

Even on a winter's day when it's cold and miserable,

this still looks beautiful.

Throughout the hot summer of 2013,

we followed the lives of the locals who live,

work and play in this Welsh paradise.

CHEERING

Oh, my God.

What's happened to you, Mum?

This is their summer.

This is their story.

Coming up, Pembrokeshire turns really wild for path food.

This is called ivy leaf toadflax. You're not obliged to like it...

and you can spit it out.

The James family get in shape for a big wedding.

I am the best yoyo dieter that I know.

I could write a book on how to do it.

And recycling guru Buzz Knapp-Fisher gets his Fairy Cafe

ready for the summer walkers.

It's the best thing I've ever found from the skip. It's brilliant.

It's May and the Pembrokeshire Coast Path is bursting into life.

At St David's in the north of the county wild food forager

Julia Horton-Powdrill is making plans.

We're just going to go on a bit of the Coastal Path

between St Non's and Caerfai to go and do a bit of foraging

that's actually on the coastline.

And...it's for the Really Wild Food Festival.

We have about 80 stalls of people coming, which is

quite a number, really.

And then we have to coordinate volunteers and security.

Putting up posters around all the shops and leaflets and so on.

It's...pretty nonstop. Wow.

What a fabulous view.

With her Really Wild Food Festival around the corner,

Julia is visiting her larder for inspiration.

This is Caerfai. This is one of my favourite beaches.

I don't suppose many people would realise how

much there is you can pick on the Coastal Path that's edible.

You'll see, along here, Alexanders, which is now coming into flower.

The Romans were responsible for bringing Alexanders over.

It's really called parsley of Alexandria.

You can...

use the stems like that and you can steam them...

rather like you would asparagus,

and then you would put butter on it

and that makes a really nice vegetable.

Everybody recognises these, the good old stinging nettle,

which if you hold tight, you can pick without stinging yourself.

And they are the most fantastic food.

I've just made a load of stinging nettle quiches,

which are great fun actually.

But the sting does go out of them when you cook with them.

You just pick the top few leaves off with gloves, usually,

and you're left with those.

It tastes quite...iron-y.

Grasp it tightly, like that...

Fab.

If you have a man with a rather flagging part of his anatomy,

you can actually beat it with nettles and that will bring the blood

to surface and make your life very happy again.

So, it's nature's Viagra.

Do you want a go? SHE LAUGHS

SHEEP BLEATS

Eight miles south, fisherman Johno Voyce

and deck hand Ben Lawrence are off from Solva to get fresh

Pembrokeshire crab and lobster to sell at Julia's festival.

We're going to go up and have a nice jolly round Ramsey.

We haven't had weather like this for a long time now.

From the Coastal Path you don't get to see this beauty.

Even on a winter's day when it's cold and miserable,

this still looks beautiful.

-Have you caught anything yet?

-Yeah.

A couple of mackerel?

It doesn't matter what you do for a living now, nothing's easy.

And if you can make a living doing this then we're very lucky.

But it's getting difficult.

All the costs are going up, the price isn't improving,

Spain's having a hard time and that's where 90% of the fish go.

But Johno is on a mission to get the locals

and holiday-makers eating his catch.

The Really Wild Food Festival, it's just to bring in a load

of everything that's local and people can get the taste of Pembrokeshire,

so people appreciate what we've got in these waters.

That's John's favourite bit of the job - his cup of tea.

The fresh Pembrokeshire waters are teeming with lobster.

Here we are. Look.

That's the first lobster we've seen.

But not all that Johno catches can be kept.

That goes back.

The size of a lobster has to be 90 mil.

We measure from the eye to the back of the body.

If it's not 90 mil, it goes back.

That one's in. You live in hope.

Every pot's different and I think that's the beauty of it.

# My heart breaks as you take your long journey... #

It takes a dedicated ten-man team of park wardens to maintain

the 186-miles of Pembrokeshire Coast Path.

And come rain or shine,

Ozzie Duffy and his colleague Rich Hughes are hard at work...

after breakfast, that is.

HE LAUGHS

Yeah, Rich is partial to a doughnut.

I'm working on getting Ozzie a bit rounder.

He quite often has a cake.

I'm getting there. But all jokes aside,

you've got to be a bit fit to be doing this as well like, you know.

A lot of walking, isn't it?

Today there are at Milford Haven, where the

path passes the heavy industry of the oil refinery.

First cut of the season.

Obviously there is not an awful lot of growth

because of the time of the year.

You see something different every day.

That's the thing - it's so diverse.

The Coast Path gets cut twice-a-year.

Dream job.

-Nobody else has got an office window like this, have they?

-No.

It's amazing to think we're out there in the wilds

and we've just come down to this.

You couldn't get any more industrial than this place.

And yet, in there, it's like a nature reserve.

It's just unbelievable how it mixes in, you know.

It's the blend of the old and the new.

I think it's the third busiest port in Britain...

because it's such a deep water haven you can get tankers in and out.

I can remember when none of this refinery were here.

-Can you?

-Yeah.

This was built in '64, wasn't it?

-Don't ask me, I wasn't around then.

-BOTH LAUGH

-Did you say you used to swim across?

-Swan across with my sister, yeah,

from Milford Bridge.

-Bet you couldn't swim it now.

-No, I couldn't do it now.

In the north of the county, just off Strumble Head,

lies the tiny hamlet of Llanwnda.

There you will find the Fairy Cafe,

a stop-off for tired coastal walkers...

..run by Buzz and Arona Knapp-Fisher and their daughter Millie.

That's the best thing I've ever found from a skip. It's brilliant.

We have travellers from all around the world that pop in here

and they make themselves some tea or coffee or something,

then leave a donation and...

It's a brilliant way to network and chat to people,

because it is an unusual stop.

It's unofficial and so we always get people who are slightly...got

something in common with.

And they see the magic of the Coast Path.

They see the magic of Pembrokeshire.

And I suppose I was brought up with eccentric people,

like the lady who made fudge down the road that apparently used to

clean the trays and stuff with spit.

I don't know how true that was, but it didn't stop us buying the fudge.

Going back in time, not all visitors to Llanwnda have been friendly.

Where we are here at the moment was occupied territory.

So in 1797, it was occupied by a gang of people,

the French mixed with Irish rebels to start the Welsh revolution,

and as I'm into a revolution in terms of...the future

and the way we need to change in a peaceful sense,

I think it's rather fitting that we live here.

I was sneaking around this place before I met Buzz, thinking,

"What a curious little place it was."

But when I moved in, Buzz had his old car in here as a garage.

We just lived upstairs in that one room.

We've got quadruple glazing and just waste wood,

and found objects,

even the TV we were given.

Buzz is a man with many plans and all involve recycling.

This is the Electric Kitten cos basically it's a Reliant Fox,

or a Reliant Kitten, and...

this is our project, the electric car project.

It's decorated using aluminium cans,

more for fun that anything else.

But also it's bringing awareness of aircraft-quality aluminium

and they're just throwing it away, which I think is bonkers.

But there's just one thing missing from the Fairy Cafe.

Time for Buzz to find a tap and make some modifications.

This is for the cafe.

So, we can get one of these taps off and I can then stick them

into the sink.

I think we'll just grab onto it enough, but...

I haven't got the big enough spanner. HE LAUGHS

It's just too short!

It's just...

The nature of doing stuff from junk.

-But luckily Buzz has more than one old tap in stock.

-There we go.

That's a rather nice brass tap as well.

So, we'll fix that into the cafe now.

Ah, that's it.

Ah, movement. It works!

So, the plan is that...

The people, friends, that come into our home, which are the walkers

and all invited in, means that...

They can then do the washing up as well,

so...

Tea, cake, donation and washing up.

HE LAUGHS

Perfect business strategy!

As Buzz continues to wrestle with his plumbing...

..20 miles south on St David's Head,

father and daughter Les

and Nat James are busy feeding the animals at Treginnis.

-Shall we deal with these pigs first?

-Yeah.

But this is no run-of-the-mill farm.

Bit hot for you, isn't it?

Farms for City Children is a charity set up to give

pupils from inner city schools experience of country life.

It's a mucky job, getting all the poo out of their feet.

And looking after the day-to-day running is

the job of the James family.

Do 18 Months first then.

That pig's called 18 Months there cos she's only got a year and a half.

That's how they got the name there.

Come on then, Coochy. This is Cooch, over here.

So, we've got to get a bigger gate to stop him coming out,

cos he comes out and he opens up all the doors with his snout.

And most of these hens here, they've been rescued.

They were going off for chicken nuggets.

For dad Les, it's the dream job.

Fabulous.

I packed in the milk round, I got fed up after all those years,

but haven't looked back since.

I think I've got the best job in St David's. I think!

Yeah, it's good.

And she knows the routine because she's been born and bred on the farm.

No arguments yet. Not yet.

The farm have just had two new residents move in...

and they're a rare ancient breed.

So, this is Gavin and Stacey.

But she's...

Yeah, she is nearly close.

-We've never had iron age piglets here, have we?

-No.

How many do you reckon she'll have?

No more than six.

It won't be today but...

By the weekend, I think.

But Stacey isn't the only one with a big event around the corner.

In just six weeks' time, Nat is getting married to fiance Dan.

And mum Cath is in full planning mode.

I think I'm organised.

I think so. Photographer came yesterday.

So, we met the vicar, went round the cathedral.

And I thought, "Oh, my God, this is very real now."

So, yeah, great excitement.

Cath's...what's that word, Nat?

She's...

-She's not domineering yet, but...

-She's on a mission.

Just stay away from her.

I'm trying to be really organised so that I won't be a nightmare,

having the screaming ab dabs and...

This will be the first wedding at the farm

and Cath is determined to make Nat's dream day come true.

Nat has always said,

"When I get married I want a marquee down the farm."

That's what she wanted.

That's what she wanted. That's what she's going to get.

Time for Nat and Les to roll their sleeves up

and get the place looking tidy for the big day.

It's lovely having it looking lovely and especially for the summer

when there's visitors walking through the yard.

I've played rugby with Dan before I knew him.

I must admit, he's brilliant, yeah. Superb.

You wouldn't have want of a better son-in-law.

One, because he's a mechanic! HE LAUGHS

Today's changeover day. The school left this morning. Sorry!

And we've got another school coming in now. That's how busy it is.

It's...

Don't have time for dinner, really.

My side's better than yours.

-I haven't finished.

-Yeah, you have.

As Les and Nat continue whitewashing the farm,

just a mile away, things have got competitive on the Jessie Lou.

Johno and Ben are out to catch the first mackerel of the season.

Whenever we stop for mackerel, it's a

pound for the first mackerel between us, or a pint,

and so it's always a rush.

We drop the lines at the same time, we both start fishing,

and then that's it.

This is my favourite type of fishing.

Hand line for mackerel - there's nothing better.

We haven't had a mackerel yet.

He catches more but I know more.

Before Ben and I catch it, it costs me

more in beer than what I have lost in bets over mackerel.

This one feels better.

-Oh, no, it's gone.

-I think with wet fish,

a lot of people get put off with the fact that,

"I don't like to see its eyes. I don't like to see its head."

A lot of people don't like bones.

Unfortunately, we can't sell jellyfish.

Yeah!

Oh, I've got a good one. I've got two.

John, man!

-I win the pint!

-No, you don't.

-I do!

Landed first.

HE LAUGHS

First mackerel of the year - it's beautiful.

That feels good.

With the fish reeling in, the boys have had a successful day.

And the catch is ready to sell at the Really Wild Food Festival.

Back at Treginnis Farm,

Les and Nat have finished the whitewashing just in time.

38 children and their teachers

have arrived from Cardiff for a week's stay.

Hiya. All right?

-That's just been done now.

-Fantastic.

Before and after. Look at that.

-Nobody noticed?

-Oh, sorry. Sorry.

But before they get to grips with the animals,

the children have to gather for Les' welcome talk.

We're going to have a fantastic week. Any horsey people here?

Who remembers Tinkle last year?

The little pony? The small one?

OK. She's got a sore throat. She's a little hoarse(!)

While Les continues his stand up,

wife Cath is in the farm house.

With Nat and Dan's wedding around the corner,

she's battling with her diet.

I could do with being a bit smaller.

SHE LAUGHS

..but there we are. Who cares?

I am the best yoyo dieter that I know.

Absolutely the best. I could write a book on how to do it.

I desperately wanted to be in the 13 stone bracket.

Dun-dun-da!

-BLEEP

-a brick. 14.6.

How much can I equate for these clothes?!

As Cath battles with her diet...

Ozzie has arrived home from another day tending to the Path.

No way!

Back to the love of his life.

They should all come in now.

Come on!

Come on then!

I've had pigeons since I was ten years of age.

45 years.

Proper racing pigeons, these are.

Bred down over the years, these are, like.

But it's only in the last sort of eight or nine years I've raced them.

Some people love them. Some people hate them.

Er...

I've just got a thing about them. I've always liked birds.

And I've got a thing about how they get back home,

and I don't think anybody knows how they get back home.

As educated as everybody is, there's so many different things.

Some people are saying it's the sun.

Some...

But it's an instinct built in them.

I think they're quite intelligent.

I mean, if I was chucked up in the middle of France with no map

or compass or GPS or whatever,

how would I know my way home?

Come on. Come on, big boys.

Competition is fierce between the Pembrokeshire pigeon racers.

And I can't show you any secrets in this bin cos somebody might see them.

See it on the telly, like.

You know what it's like, there's a lot of rivalry.

And with the first race of the season a week away,

Ozzie has his reputation to live up to.

This is the one that one the Federation.

This came first out of the whole of west Wales.

There it is there.

But they are... Between my work and the pigeons...

..I haven't got time for my wife. HE LAUGHS

It's the day before the Really Wild Food Festival,

and event director and food forager Julia Horton-Powdrill is

organising the troops.

Er... No, this side. Back it right back against there.

As long as they can get round, obviously, to see these guys here.

This is the festival's ninth year, but the first time it's been

held at the Bishop's Palace at St David's Cathedral.

For Julia, here dream hangs on the success

of the event at its new location,

but already there's a problem.

The people who are bringing all the tradesmen's tents,

or market tents, whatever you like to call them,

have got lost somewhere near Carmarthen.

So, they're two or three hours behind time, which is great(!)

Meanwhile, Johno has arrived to prep his fish stall.

We have a really good quality product. We have nice crab,

good lobster. And I think the big problem with people not trying

is they don't know how to dress a crab,

they don't know how to dress a lobster, and it puts them off.

So, I think we're going to try and promote dressing crabs,

getting people to not be frightened of it,

and to make it look nice on a plate for them.

As Johno sets up,

Julia gets an update on the lost lorry full of display tents.

Yeah. They got as far as Haverfordwest from

Carmarthen now, where they got lost.

Now they're in Haverfordwest, but they think they're in St David's.

Brian said, apparently, "Can you see a sign that say's St David's?"

And they said, "No." They've a little bit further to come.

Finally, Julia receives some good news.

Oh. That's my bum talking.

I've only just worked out how to use these.

The display tents have arrived at the Cathedral...

four hours late.

The stall providers have at last arrived I think with some

difficulty trying to get in through the gate as well,

so it's not without drama.

-Hi.

-Are you all right?

I'm all right. I'm Julia.

You've got here. You had a bit of a circuitous route.

Never mind, you're here now. So, anyway, you've got lots of helpers.

See? Look. Gagging...to help.

If this is the top row...

With the tents having arrived, it's all hands to the pump to get

the Bishops Palace ready for the festival tomorrow.

These are facing this way.

Back-to-back with this.

No. Take that one away then.

Er... Actually, you needn't have gone over there cos you're just double

handling it. We want them behind, don't we?

So, I'm trying to keep them all...

They haven't done that.

I think perhaps I'll just let everyone else do it.

SHE LAUGHS

I've had a really good band of helpers, actually.

Our Really Wild team has been amazing, so... And still are amazing.

I have to say that because we've still got quite a few hours to

go tonight. Probably midnight job, I should think, probably.

Back in Llanwnda, Buzz is hard at work.

Erm...

I'm a bit behind with things.

Just got to get the toilet done first, start the eco lodge,

but really quite pleased with the progress of the electric car.

It doesn't need much, other than batteries and the lamps

and a break leak.

And put a second lynch motor in.

They wanted to charge £100 for some very small little head lamps,

so now I'm sort of making them

and they look a lot better than the rather dull 1970s originals.

I'm making a bracket for that.

They should be nearly ready for the MOT...

hopefully this summer, which will mean most probably wintertime.

It's getting there. HE LAUGHS

But plans for the electric car are on hold

while Buzz tries to get running water in his Fairy Cafe,

a stop-off for tired, thirsty coastal walkers.

After coming across an old tap in his yard,

Buzz has finally made progress,

diverting water from his trusty ancient well.

It's gravity-fed, pressure's a bit low, but fantastic cos it means

we don't have to go outside to do the washing up,

which we used to have to do.

Or fill the kettle.

And the guests, better still, they wash up.

We just need customers!

Or guests, so we can get round health and safety.

The sun is shining on St David's Cathedral

and after months of planning,

the doors have opened for Julia Horton-Powdrill's

Really Wild Food Festival.

The public are lapping up the chance to sample Pembrokeshire's

wild food and local produce.

For the kids, never ever eat anything that you think you can just eat.

Always ask Mummy or Daddy first because it's so important,

because you can be poisoned by things. So, just pick...

This is fine. Just pick one of these little leaves.

This is called ivy leave toadflax.

You don't have to eat anything that I'm going to point out...

..and you're not obliged to like it.

And you can spit it out.

So, I'm really not offended if people go, "God, that's awful."

And...this is goose grass, cleavers...

-Sticky willy.

-Sticky willy!

See.

Sorry. Daren't get any lower. SHE LAUGHS

The event is pulling in the crowds and Julia's gamble to hold

it at the Bishop's Palace seems to be paying off.

Johno has stocked his stall

and it out to entice the public to buy his Pembrokeshire seafood.

We've got two portions of dressed crab,

four portions of sustainable fish and a cooked dressed lobster.

But not everyone is biting.

For one person...

It's all fresh. You can freeze it.

-And how much would that cost?

-£35.

That's too expensive.

Fresh fish is expensive,

but they don't realise the costs of catching it,

the labour that goes into it.

And I don't think £35 for a box is an awful

lot of money for everything prepped, dressed, ready to go.

You got to a supermarket,

you pay a lot more for it than what you do here.

# When the weather's fine

# We go fishing or go swimming in the sea... #

But as the afternoon winds on, the public flood in.

How many are you looking at? Or how many of you are there?

-Well...

-And Johno's fortunes change as he reels in the punters.

There we go.

That's £9.50 then, please.

Brown and the white meat mixed together...

with a little bit of sweet chilli sauce.

Just to give it a little bit of a bite.

Thank you. There's the wraps.

All in all, yes, I think it's been a successful festival for us.

And I think next year we'll come back and maybe try

and do a fish barbecue...

..if I can catch enough.

So as the sun goes down, Julia finally gets time to take

a breather and reflect on how the festival has gone.

Today's been fantastic. Actually, it's been an amazing weekend.

We've had... I was hoping we'd have 3,500 people. that would have made me

a happy person. But actually we've had over 5,000,

which has been incredible actually,

and it's all worked amazingly well.

Lots of happy people. Lots of people selling lots of things and...

the weather's been perfect for two days.

So, it's the start of us being here all the time, I hope.

-Next time...

-32.

..Ozzie sends his pigeons into battle.

Nervous time now, Tony.

A Pembrokeshire legend has her birthday.

I haven't drank much, have I?

LAUGHTER

And Buzz starts his big summer project.

We're sort of thinking perhaps loo with a view.

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