On the Trail of the Caribou Incredible Animal Journeys


On the Trail of the Caribou

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Mile upon mile of snow and ice.

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A winter wonderland.

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Completely deserted.

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Well, almost.

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This is the setting

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of one of nature's most spectacular journeys.

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It's truly the edge of nowhere.

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Where we're going, there aren't any roads -

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just miles and miles of this.

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There are animals that can survive up here, of course, but one above all is the master.

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Welcome to the land of the caribou.

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For the caribou, movement is a way of life.

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Every year, each individual caribou, young and old,

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will travel over 2,000 miles, heading north in spring and back south in the autumn.

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It's no easy option.

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First, there's the predators...

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..and appalling weather...

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..and other challenges this extreme environment will throw at them as they struggle north.

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So why go on such an odyssey?

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And how do they survive such an extreme test of endurance?

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Well, to find out...

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this year, we're going with them.

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I'm going to travel any way I can, and do whatever it takes to keep up.

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This way I hope to discover something of what they go through

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and find out why travelling is the caribou's passport to survival.

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To understand what caribou are up against, I need to keep in touch with the herd.

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And one of the best ways to do that is to follow a single animal.

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Well, we're going to try.

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But how are we going to follow a single animal in a herd of 120,000?

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They all look identical.

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Well, first we have to find the herd at the most southerly end of their migration in spring,

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just before their long trek north.

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Then we need to call on the experts.

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For the last ten years, scientists in Canada

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and the USA have been studying one particular caribou herd.

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It's called the Porcupine herd.

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We're joining Martin Kienzler, who is part of an international operation.

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Martin and his team are attaching satellite collars to caribou so they can track their travels remotely.

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This year, they're particularly interested in how pregnant females cope,

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because the future of the entire herd depends on them completing this journey.

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This is one of our girls.

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We've named her Claudia.

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Neck, 46.

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Martin and his team quickly measure her vital statistics

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to build her personal profile, including taking a bit of blood to confirm that she's pregnant.

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On with the satellite collar.

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Now we can track her every move remotely.

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And there she goes -

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with 700 kilometres of some of the world's harshest terrain ahead of her.

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That's over 400 miles of heavy going - and probably carrying a calf, as well.

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The thing is, we don't know if she is pregnant for sure.

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But this blood sample will hopefully give us the good news.

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So where are we, then?

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Right now, we're with Claudia in the Yukon Territory of Canada.

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But remember, she's not alone.

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She's with over 120,000 others

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and soon they'll all be on the move, trekking all the way up

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to the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge in Alaska over 400 miles away.

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But why? Why make such a dangerous and difficult journey?

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For the answer, we have to turn the clock back to the autumn,

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when an event took place that set this entire incredible journey in motion...

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..the rut.

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The caribou rut only lasts around ten days, but during that time,

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around 80% to 90% of all the females will become pregnant.

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With conception, an unstoppable chain of events is set in motion.

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In 228 days, the pregnant females will give birth,

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but they can't give birth here.

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There's too many predators, and there's not enough quality food.

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This is why the herd must travel north.

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Back to the present and now it's April.

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We're still here in the Yukon to join the caribou as they start their incredible journey.

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Only problem is, they haven't budged. They're late.

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Now, the satellite collar that Claudia is wearing is pretty spectacular.

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But it wouldn't be any use to us if we couldn't get the information

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that it's beaming into space while we're out in the field.

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So we've got another piece of kit here, and that's this.

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It's a satellite pager.

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Now, I have got the co-ordinate for Claudia.

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She still hasn't started her journey yet. She's still very much where we collared her.

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We don't know why she hasn't started, but spring seems to be coming very late this year,

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and the snow around this area is still very, very deep.

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Whatever the reason for the caribou's delayed start, it's a worry.

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This whole journey runs on a tight schedule.

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The caribou have a series of deadlines to meet if they're to reach the calving area on time.

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And if they miss these deadlines, it will put the calves and the mothers in great danger.

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Every delay increases the risk.

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Anyway, we can't start our journey until the caribou start theirs.

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So we'll just have to wait, too.

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It's a good time to meet the locals and get a feel for this place.

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The Yukon is a real wilderness and I need to know how to look after myself.

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I'm building what they call a quinzee - a snow shelter -

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and I'm actually gonna sleep in it tonight.

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The branches keep me off the snow.

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And the skins will help keep me warm.

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-Got some more bedding here, Steve.

-Oh, wow!

-Yep.

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'They're about the best thermal insulators in the world.'

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I think I can live with this.

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'What are they? You guessed it - caribou skins.'

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To be honest, it's going to be a flippin' nightmare!

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My extreme survival teacher is Faye Chamberlain, who's an experienced hunter and trapper.

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She's lived up here for 28 years, living out in the wilderness for weeks at a time.

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Faye has to be totally self-sufficient.

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I try to travel as light as possible.

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-For example, if I don't have sunglasses and I'm out on the land, I'll grab some birch bark...

-Yeah.

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-..and make myself one of these...

-STEVE LAUGHS

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-..basically to keep... Yeah.

-Let me have a go at that. Yeah, they're great, actually.

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-Have you ever had to wear these?

-No, never had to.

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THEY LAUGH

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-OK.

-But I would.

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Oh, yeah. Snow blindness can end up getting you killed. But...

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-Yeah.

-..as a fashion statement...

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If I'm going to stay in a quinzee, you know, you're gonna have to have a long-burning candle.

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-But if you don't have any of those, this is the real homemade jobby here.

-Sardine tin, is it?

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Yeah, it's a sardine tin with a piece of lamp wick and some lard.

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You're gonna use it for a little heating and lighting in there.

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So that'll stay lit all night, will it?

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-No, you'll have a bit of larch wood. That'll burn down, but that'll add to it.

-Yeah.

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Got some salmon strips here, if you'd like one.

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'Now, I've been vegetarian most of my life,

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'but to survive out here, you've gotta be prepared to eat anything.'

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And this has been dried, has it?

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This has been dried.

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Well, soaked in a little bit of a salt brine, and then smoked and then dried on the rack. Yup.

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That's weird. I haven't had fish since I was a kid, really.

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Well, the people have been doing it for thousands of years, and the land is like their larder.

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Oh, hello, you.

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Do you want some of that?

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So what are the threats to the herd, then?

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-Well, of course there's global warming...

-Yes.

-That's a big one.

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And also potential development in the coastal plain

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-on their migration, and the calving grounds, especially.

-Yeah.

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And that could really have drastic consequences for the caribou.

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'The temperature's plummeting.

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'Maybe this wasn't such a good idea!'

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Now, this new coat is fantastic.

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-That's amazing.

-Yeah, this is kinda made out of caribou. Yeah.

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I feel, you know, when I get a caribou, I like to think I'm prolonging their life and spirit

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-by using as much as I can.

-Yeah.

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So these are the hides, and I put wolverine around for the ruffs, cos it doesn't frost so much.

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-And is it warmer than one of these down jackets?

-Oh, by far, by far. Yeah.

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-So do you think I'm going to be comfortable tonight?

-Oh, yeah. You're going to be snug as a bug.

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It's about 20 below tonight, so it'll be what we call a two-dog night up here.

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-A two-dog night?

-Yeah.

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For every ten degrees below zero, you add on a dog,

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to snuggle up with you to keep you...

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Oh, right. OK, OK.

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That's going to be OK. Here we go.

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OK. So I'm in my quinzee.

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The only light I have is this candle.

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It's not too bad, actually.

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But the thermometer I've got in here is just creeping up, up, up.

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It's now at minus four, and who knows how high it's going to get?

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So I don't think warmth's going to be a problem.

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Good night!

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'Big mistake!

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'That candle gave me light, of course, but it was also the central heating.'

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Ugh!

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It's just turned midnight

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and things are getting a bit chilly in here.

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I might have to...

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put a few more layers on and see how I get on.

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I think it's time to call it a day.

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I'd like to stay out longer but, er...

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you know when the cold kind of gets to your bones, and you just can't sleep?

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Well, that's it.

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The wind is...

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blowing quite wild outside...

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..and, er...

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I just need

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a warm bed.

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I think I've done... I've done my bit.

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Here am I, trying to convince... I'm just freezing cold.

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I want a nice bed!

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Sorry,

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I just couldn't hold out any longer.

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If I have to sleep out again on this journey, I'll know to keep that candle burning.

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Well, despite so little sleep, I feel great this morning,

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because Claudia's co-ordinates show she's on the move at last.

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The pregnant females are at the lead, and the rest of the herd follows.

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But now there are only five weeks till the calves are due.

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This will be a race against time.

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They're off, so I'm off, too!

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Believe it or not, I did seriously think about actually trying to walk alongside Claudia and her mates.

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But it's knackering!

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It is...

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totally sapping.

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You just have to get into the rhythm and keep plodding on.

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It's almost like continually falling forward, and,

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as long as you keep picking the foot up and falling on to it, you're going to keep going.

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Well, you've got to have a break occasionally.

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'Or permanently, in my case.

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'I'm just not built to travel this way.'

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Unlike the caribou, who are in a league of their own.

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In terms of energy usage, they can out-perform any other land animal that's ever been studied.

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You get a lot of miles to the gallon with a Porcupine caribou.

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How do they do it? Well, they distribute their weight

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evenly across those big feet so they don't sink so far into the snow.

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It's obvious there's absolutely no way I would be able to run with the caribou.

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And by the way, caribou do need to run.

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We're not the only ones trying to follow them.

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These are special wolves.

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Instead of having a territory in one place, these wolves have evolved to travel,

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to migrate with the herd, constantly on the lookout for any opportunities to make a kill.

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It's tough, but the wolves keep a health-check on the Porcupine herd,

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weeding out the weak or old animals.

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IT CAWS

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Escaping wolves can be another hold-up, and they're already so late starting.

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So where do Claudia and all the pregnant mums stand right now?

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Well, she's making slow progress

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but seems to be heading towards the northernmost town up here, Old Crow.

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So I guess we'd better head there, too.

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Easier said than done. The weather has turned awful.

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This is serious for us all.

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It's proper Yukon winter weather.

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It's minus 40 out there now.

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Of course, caribou are built to withstand these extremes.

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They have compact bodies, insulating, hollow fur,

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and they don't need to shiver till it's below minus 40 degrees.

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They just sit it out.

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Phew, we made it!

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Old Crow.

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All I want now is a hot mug of tea to warm me up.

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Old Crow is a unique place.

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For a start, the town has no roads to it at all.

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You have to fly or sledge in.

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It's the only community in the Yukon that can't be reached by car.

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Old Crow owes its very existence to the caribou.

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It's built on their migration route.

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There's archaeological evidence of caribou bones cut and shaped by humans

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going back tens of thousands of years, and the Gwitchin people who still live here

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still live off the caribou, which provide them with food and clothes.

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In recent years, the Porcupine herd have streamed right through the village by now.

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But this year, they're late.

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We need some expert advice.

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Everyone's an expert on caribou in Old Crow, but it's the elders who have the real wisdom.

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The man we need to see is out of town at his hunting cabin, waiting for the caribou to arrive.

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And the best way to get there? You've guessed it!

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How many dogs are you gonna give me?

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-Seven.

-Seven.

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Seven's a lot for me.

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'Now, I've done this before, but it was a long time ago.

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'And even then, I was, well, rubbish!'

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There's an assumption that I know what I'm doing.

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I don't know where that's come from, but the first corner's going to be an absolute doozy.

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This is what most people think that dogs are going to be like.

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These dogs are absolutely mad keen to go, but wait till we let them go.

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Then listen to what they're like.

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OK, dogs, OK.

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DOGS IMMEDIATELY GO QUIET

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Not quite what you'd expect, is it?

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Good dogs!

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'So who exactly are we going to meet, then?

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'Stephen Frost is a Gwitchin elder, and his life is still wrapped up

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'with the coming and the going of the caribou.

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'He's the repository of maybe thousands of years of knowledge about the caribou migration.

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'If anyone can help us, Stephen can.'

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Whoa...

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-Hello, Steve.

-Hello, Stephen!

-You're welcome here.

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-Thank you very much.

-My name is Steve, too.

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-Oh, excellent.

-Did you have a good trip?

-Eventful.

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Didn't you do well today?

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Teddy, Daisy...

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Let's have a look at your feet,

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and set everybody free in excitement.

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'Stephen Frost is 73 years old.

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'His life still revolves around the caribou, much as his ancestors' did for thousands of years.

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'He hunts them, uses their skin for clothing, makes shoes and the warmest coats in the world.'

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Man, are you ever an expert at swinging that axe!

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'The mysteries of the caribou migration run in his blood.

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'When scientists get stuck, they often turn to Stephen for advice.'

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I think this is probably not the best way to come, but you seem to know what you're doing.

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-I'll follow you.

-Well, somebody got to know what they're doing, I guess!

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I think we know who that is!

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Yeah. Follow the local. That's the way to do it.

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'This river right outside Stephen's cabin is the Porcupine River.

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'It gives its name to the Porcupine herd, because the entire herd must cross it on their way north.'

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-Where are the caribou now? Why aren't they here?

-This year's a bit late.

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There's an awful lot of snow.

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But had it not been late, the caribou should have been

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crossing the Porcupine above Old Crow, you know, maybe ten, 12 to 50 miles up already.

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But it's late, and that's because of the snow. Only because of the snow.

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If they're still late because of this deep snow, is that going to be a problem?

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If the caribou don't get up there, then by nature they don't have calves where they're supposed to,

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making it easier for the wolves and bears to get them.

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So in a late year, we've known caribou to even calf

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before they hit the river, and it's most likely then they will never make it up there.

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OK. The calves are going to really struggle, I suppose, to keep up with Mum.

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Yeah. They probably won't make it.

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And how long have the Gwitchin been actually hunting here?

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I dunno. I don't know if anyone could answer that right.

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About 40,000 years?

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-I don't think you were here then!

-No!

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Me, neither. But it's been a long, long time.

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The caribou should have been here by now.

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They just keep on slipping further behind schedule.

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Everything's stacked up against them -

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the weather, the terrain, the wolves and, if that wasn't enough, as the weather warms up

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there's something else.

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The winter may have been an exercise in extreme survival,

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but at least the caribou didn't have bears to contend with.

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The bears were all hibernating throughout the winter, but now they emerge from their dens.

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After five or six months underground, they're hungry.

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Bears are surprisingly fast, but Claudia is young and healthy.

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She should be able to outpace them.

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And there's more. As the weather warms up, the ice melts,

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turning the snow to slush and the frozen rivers into death traps.

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And the Porcupine River is melting, too...

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..with Claudia stuck on the wrong side.

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Crossing the river like this would be suicide.

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Yet another delay.

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She hesitates for three days.

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Is she looking for a safe place to cross?

0:28:130:28:16

Isn't it amazing what those satellite collars reveal?

0:28:180:28:22

Without them, scientists would know nothing of this sort of behaviour.

0:28:220:28:26

At last, Claudia's satellite co-ordinates show that she crosses safely along with the others.

0:28:370:28:42

Let's hope she can make up for lost time.

0:28:570:29:00

Meanwhile, we've got problems of our own.

0:29:050:29:08

'Something's come up.

0:29:080:29:11

'The whole point of Claudia's journey is for her to find somewhere safe to give birth to her calf.

0:29:110:29:16

'And everything we're doing is based on the assumption she's pregnant.

0:29:160:29:21

'But is she?

0:29:210:29:22

'Remember when we were collaring her with Martin Kienzler right at the beginning?

0:29:220:29:27

'We took blood samples to see if Claudia was pregnant.

0:29:270:29:30

'Well, we don't have the results yet, so we have no way of knowing if she's pregnant or not.

0:29:300:29:35

'The only way to find out is to try and find her and see for ourselves.'

0:29:380:29:43

-How are you doing?

-I'm doing good.

-Hey, Martin.

0:29:480:29:51

We flew over thick fog on the way here.

0:29:510:29:54

'We've managed to convince Martin Kienzler to come to our aid.

0:29:540:29:57

'He's kindly dropped everything to join us.

0:29:570:30:00

'And we've got the legendary Stephen Frost.

0:30:000:30:03

'So we've got the latest science, coupled with the traditional knowledge of the Gwitchin people.'

0:30:030:30:08

OK, so we're all together. We've got a chopper with a full tank of fuel.

0:30:080:30:12

Rock and roll!

0:30:120:30:14

'So how are we going to find her?

0:30:300:30:34

'It's the double whammy - the old and the new.

0:30:340:30:39

'Technology first.

0:30:390:30:41

'As well as a satellite link, Claudia is beaming a radio signal all the time.'

0:30:410:30:47

-So Claudia is nine miles this way.

-OK.

0:30:470:30:50

Well, hopefully she's going to be up on one of these ridges, or up on a ridge.

0:30:500:30:55

'We know she's down here somewhere.'

0:30:550:30:58

Yeah, there's some down there on that ridge.

0:30:580:31:01

Oh, there we go, we've got her.

0:31:010:31:03

Fairly close, too.

0:31:030:31:05

-I can land right here...

-Yup.

-..if you want. Shall I try it?

0:31:070:31:11

Yeah. OK.

0:31:110:31:13

All right. 30 seconds.

0:31:130:31:15

Bump, bump.

0:31:180:31:20

'Once we're down on the ground, it's a whole new ball game.

0:31:210:31:25

'Now we need the experience of someone who's spent their life amongst caribou -

0:31:250:31:29

'someone who can think like a caribou.'

0:31:290:31:32

You know, they seem to be coming straight this way, so they could follow that trail.

0:31:320:31:38

Or there's one down here.

0:31:380:31:41

I wonder if we could move this stuff to that little timber area, because if they see us out here, you know.

0:31:410:31:47

Yeah, right away.

0:31:470:31:49

'Ancient skills and modern technology - it's a good combination.'

0:31:490:31:54

They're just gonna come out right there...

0:32:120:32:15

-..on this...

-Oh, yes, yes. Right.

0:32:160:32:19

'This is the first time I've really seen the herd properly.

0:32:190:32:24

'It's easy enough to say there's over 120,000 animals in the herd,

0:32:240:32:28

'but you can't really visualise what that means.

0:32:280:32:31

'It's just mind-boggling.'

0:32:310:32:33

(Just listen to them!)

0:32:380:32:41

(That tapping sound is their tendons clicking.)

0:32:410:32:44

(She's so close!)

0:32:480:32:50

Our caribou, Claudia, is in here somewhere, amongst these hundreds of caribou.

0:32:550:33:03

We've been so lucky because they've just come and surrounded us.

0:33:030:33:07

We've got caribou all around us, just slowly plodding their way north.

0:33:070:33:13

Really peaceful.

0:33:130:33:15

All we can hear is the clicking of their tendons,

0:33:150:33:19

and they've got within a few hundred feet and haven't been bothered by us,

0:33:190:33:24

so that's really nice, just to be able to see them on their migration.

0:33:240:33:29

And when we leave them now, they'll just keep going, for hundreds and hundreds of miles.

0:33:290:33:35

It's hard to grasp how many there are.

0:33:390:33:42

They just keep coming, layer upon layer, streaming past.

0:33:420:33:46

Picking out Claudia's gonna be much more tricky than I thought,

0:33:480:33:52

but if we don't see her, we won't know if she's pregnant or not.

0:33:520:33:56

She just walked right on by.

0:33:560:34:00

We just missed her. She's in that line of trees there.

0:34:000:34:04

We can see all the caribou that are with her.

0:34:040:34:06

I think she was, like you say, in that main body...

0:34:120:34:15

a few, 500 yards, and slowly getting further. It's...

0:34:170:34:21

-That's pretty good, though.

-Oh, you know, we came that close.

0:34:210:34:25

Well, you know,

0:34:270:34:28

with the caribou moving the way they are, you know,

0:34:280:34:32

I think we might have another chance yet.

0:34:320:34:34

To be honest, I'm not sure there is any realistic chance of seeing her -

0:34:340:34:39

there are just so many of them, and they're all really spread out.

0:34:390:34:44

But, we've got to keep trying.

0:34:440:34:46

Everyone's gone to so much trouble, we can't give up now.

0:34:460:34:49

We've managed to get just ahead of them again, with a better vantage point this time.

0:35:040:35:10

There's lots of them down there now.

0:35:140:35:17

There she is. Got her.

0:35:350:35:38

-You've got her?

-Yeah.

-Excellent!

0:35:380:35:40

That's extraordinary, we've found her!

0:35:510:35:54

Just look at her tummy - she certainly looks pregnant to me.

0:35:560:35:59

But the real giveaway is she's still got her big antlers.

0:36:010:36:04

If she wasn't pregnant, they'd have fallen off by now, like some of the others.

0:36:040:36:08

On a sunny day like today, it's hard to imagine what Claudia has been through already.

0:36:170:36:24

Blizzards, the river crossing.

0:36:240:36:27

Not to mention fending off wolves and grizzlies.

0:36:270:36:30

But at the moment, all that's on her mind is getting to those calving grounds in time.

0:36:300:36:36

That's probably the last we're going to see of her

0:36:430:36:47

for however long it's going to take her to get to the calving grounds.

0:36:470:36:54

That's if she can get to the calving grounds.

0:36:540:36:57

If she hadn't been pregnant, the fact that's she's almost

0:36:570:37:01

three weeks behind schedule wouldn't have mattered.

0:37:010:37:04

But now we know for sure she is, she needs to get to the safety

0:37:040:37:08

of the Arctic Refuge to give birth in just two weeks.

0:37:080:37:12

You know, I don't think she's going to make it.

0:37:130:37:16

Where Claudia and the herd are going now we just can't follow.

0:37:200:37:25

It's out of helicopter range and there's no human habitation at all.

0:37:250:37:29

All we can do is watch her progress from her collar

0:37:290:37:32

and hope and pray that the little dot keeps moving day on day.

0:37:320:37:37

As they get much further north there will be some good news.

0:37:400:37:46

The caribou will leave the shadowing wolf packs behind.

0:37:460:37:50

As it's now spring, it's time for the wolves to give birth.

0:37:550:37:59

But to do that, they need to dig a den.

0:37:590:38:02

Further north, the ground is frozen solid all the year round

0:38:050:38:09

so the wolves have to den where the ground is still soft enough to dig out a safe haven for their cubs.

0:38:090:38:15

The wolves might have to stop, but the caribou have to push on.

0:38:250:38:29

They haven't got that far to go in terms of total distance, but these girls are heavily pregnant.

0:38:340:38:40

You can see it. Imagine if you were, say, eight-months pregnant,

0:38:400:38:44

and you had to walk, sometimes run, over wet, muddy ground and slushy snow for about 150 miles.

0:38:440:38:52

No wonder they're slowing down.

0:38:520:38:54

And the weather's continuing to warm up.

0:38:590:39:03

It's an uncomfortable time for animals used to surviving extreme cold.

0:39:060:39:11

They seek out patches of snow to help keep them cool.

0:39:110:39:15

We can't go where Claudia and the herd are going now.

0:39:320:39:35

No roads, no towns, nothing.

0:39:350:39:39

But we can get ahead and wait for her.

0:39:390:39:42

So we're overtaking Claudia and heading for the only town there is up there,

0:39:420:39:47

close to where Claudia should have her calf.

0:39:470:39:50

Welcome to Kaktovik airport, gateway to The Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.

0:39:540:40:00

A comfortable taxi ride to my five-star hotel.

0:40:040:40:07

Ah, we like the look of that!

0:40:140:40:16

'No expense spared!'

0:40:160:40:18

Right, it's 5th June.

0:40:250:40:27

This is a very important day in Claudia's calendar

0:40:270:40:30

because this is the week she's most likely going to give birth.

0:40:300:40:33

And in fact, over the last few days her plot positions have started to slow down in terms of movement.

0:40:330:40:40

So, we can only assume that she's either going to give birth

0:40:400:40:44

imminently, or she already has, and has now got a calf in tow.

0:40:440:40:48

The problem is, she's not at the traditional calving grounds.

0:40:480:40:52

She's in the wrong place.

0:40:520:40:54

With all the delays, Claudia's only just reached the north coast.

0:40:540:40:59

She's still in Canada, 100 miles from the core calving area.

0:40:590:41:03

But you can't stop nature.

0:41:100:41:13

Around half of all the female caribou give birth on the same day,

0:41:130:41:18

and pretty much all of them will deliver within the week.

0:41:180:41:22

It's all synchronised to minimise the chance

0:41:220:41:25

of a predator getting your calf because there are so many around.

0:41:250:41:29

As you might expect with caribou, the calves are up and running,

0:41:320:41:36

well tottering, within a couple of hours of being born.

0:41:360:41:40

Once she's steadied up, she'll hardly stop moving for the rest of her life.

0:41:460:41:51

Pretty soon they find their feet.

0:42:110:42:13

When they're just one day old, a caribou calf can easily outrun a human!

0:42:130:42:18

The youngsters may be pretty nimble on their feet, but there's a new threat on the horizon.

0:42:260:42:32

Golden eagles target young caribou and there's little chance of a calf outrunning this aerial attack.

0:42:390:42:46

One in ten calves get taken.

0:43:040:43:06

It takes the herd and Claudia another three weeks to get to the heart of the Arctic Refuge,

0:43:240:43:31

dodging eagles, being hassled by bears, crossing rivers.

0:43:310:43:37

Lots of little legs trying to keep up.

0:43:440:43:47

Many calves will fall by the wayside.

0:43:530:43:55

But what about Claudia's calf?

0:44:090:44:12

All we can do is wait in Kaktovik with bated breath.

0:44:160:44:21

Will Claudia make it?

0:44:210:44:23

And has her calf survived?

0:44:230:44:25

There's only one way to find out.

0:44:270:44:30

We're going for one final rendezvous with our heroine.

0:44:300:44:33

She's travelled well over 400 miles, all the way up from the Yukon.

0:44:400:44:46

It's taken her a gruelling 10 weeks, crossing some of the most hostile terrain on Earth.

0:44:460:44:52

Now Claudia's here, only 40 miles south of us.

0:44:520:44:57

Going for a rendezvous is easier said than done.

0:45:080:45:11

No helicopters are allowed in the refuge.

0:45:110:45:14

The only way in is via this one little plane - flown by this one pilot.

0:45:140:45:21

But Tom is one of the few people who'd be willing to take on a mission like ours,

0:45:210:45:25

because there's a bit of a problem. We'll come back to that later.

0:45:250:45:30

You have to get up here, up into the heavens to see one of the most awesome sights in all nature.

0:45:390:45:46

-Look at this, man. We're in 'em good now...

-Oh, my hat, yeah...

0:45:460:45:50

Hey Tom, right on. There's thousands of them here. Thousands and thousands and thousands.

0:45:500:45:56

Ah, they're peppered everywhere, aren't they? Lots of calves.

0:45:560:46:00

Loads of calves. That's good to see.

0:46:000:46:03

The entire porcupine herd on the move.

0:46:120:46:15

They cover the earth.

0:46:150:46:17

A living carpet of caribou.

0:46:170:46:20

OK, so by now they're a slightly moth-eaten carpet of caribou,

0:46:220:46:27

but finally you can see what this migration is all about.

0:46:270:46:31

This is what they're here for.

0:46:310:46:35

The caribou are stuffing their faces.

0:46:350:46:38

The vegetation that's been hidden away all winter explodes into action,

0:46:430:46:47

with 24-hour sunlight producing masses of high-protein food,

0:46:470:46:53

enough even for the entire porcupine herd.

0:46:530:46:55

The mothers use it to make the richest milk among land mammals,

0:46:570:47:01

and they all build up the fat and muscle they lost on the long trek north.

0:47:010:47:06

OK, back on board, I can reveal our little problem.

0:47:150:47:19

We've got nowhere to land!

0:47:190:47:21

No, seriously, there's no landing strips at all!

0:47:210:47:24

We just have to find somewhere to land as best we can -

0:47:240:47:27

a bit of grass beside a river, a mud flat, whatever.

0:47:270:47:30

It's totally down to the judgment and skill of Tom.

0:47:300:47:35

And even he seems to be having second thoughts.

0:47:350:47:38

I'm not going into a... I mean, it would be stupid

0:47:380:47:41

to go into a place for the first time without...

0:47:410:47:44

It's too rocky. There's only one place up here we're going to go and check out.

0:47:440:47:48

We might have a problem here.

0:47:480:47:50

We'll go try to find some place.

0:47:510:47:54

-That'll do it.

-Yeah.

0:47:590:48:02

Nice one, Tom!

0:48:140:48:15

What an incredible, incredible spot!

0:48:180:48:22

Just take a look down there.

0:48:220:48:24

That is stunning!

0:48:310:48:34

So, we're on our own. But Tom will be round and about.

0:48:410:48:45

If he sees anything useful, he'll radio us.

0:48:450:48:48

We had to land 10 miles away from the herd, so it'll take us about four hours to reach them.

0:49:020:49:07

Absolutely stunning views all around.

0:49:090:49:12

We're in the middle of nowhere.

0:49:120:49:15

This might be paradise, but there is one small fly in the ointment.

0:49:180:49:23

As soon as you stand still, you're getting absolutely swamped by mosquitoes as well,

0:49:230:49:28

which is something that the caribou are obviously feeling.

0:49:280:49:32

So we are effectively honorary caribou for the next few hours.

0:49:320:49:36

Mozzie bites down my face.

0:49:410:49:43

Hang on a minute, are those caribou down there?

0:50:020:50:05

Look at that!

0:50:090:50:11

They stretch as far as the eye can see!

0:50:110:50:14

But these mozzies are really getting bad.

0:50:180:50:21

They're irritating enough for me, but for the caribou, they can be a serious problem.

0:50:240:50:29

The caribou have a three-week window to feed like crazy before the mosquitoes hit.

0:50:330:50:38

Because when they hatch out in their millions, they drive the caribou to distraction.

0:50:380:50:43

Incredibly, a caribou can lose as much as two and a quarter pints of blood in a single day.

0:50:530:50:59

They seek relief by searching out cool and windy areas,

0:51:030:51:07

and stick together in mass aggregations to avoid being bitten.

0:51:070:51:11

By being constantly on the move, that means less time to eat and that also affects their health.

0:51:200:51:27

And there are still bears up here.

0:51:380:51:40

Mind you, they're not quite such a threat any more.

0:51:450:51:48

When the calves were born, the bears hit up to six youngsters a day.

0:51:500:51:56

But now the calves are strong.

0:51:590:52:02

They can easily outrun a bear.

0:52:020:52:04

Look at those waves of disturbance.

0:52:080:52:11

It looks like shoals of fish, doesn't it?

0:52:110:52:13

Darting away from sharks or seals.

0:52:130:52:15

Right then, we're much closer now.

0:52:370:52:41

Can we find Claudia and see whether her calf has made it?

0:52:410:52:46

Our caribou are just over that ridge.

0:52:480:52:51

Well, this is why we came here.

0:53:050:53:07

They're over there - caribou as far as you can see.

0:53:070:53:10

That is the porcupine herd.

0:53:100:53:12

They've travelled 400 miles across some of the harshest terrain to get here.

0:53:120:53:17

All we've got to do is find one - one red collar somewhere in all of them.

0:53:170:53:23

Well, it was worth it.

0:53:340:53:38

There are thousands upon thousands of them.

0:53:380:53:42

Look at the tiny calves - they're beautiful.

0:53:440:53:48

When we saw them, down in the Yukon in the snow,

0:53:480:53:52

then they were forming a big line, travelling.

0:53:520:53:57

Now they're here, they might be in a big herd but well spread out.

0:53:570:54:02

And they're just feeding their faces and there are lots and lots of calves.

0:54:020:54:07

But I can't see any red collars.

0:54:170:54:19

The only thing we can do is keep scanning for her.

0:54:240:54:27

But we've placed ourselves really well, cos I think they're gonna come right under our noses.

0:54:300:54:38

Some of them are really close, but no sign of Claudia.

0:54:440:54:49

The numbers are just too overwhelming.

0:54:590:55:02

We did find her once, so it was worth a try.

0:55:050:55:08

But I guess we'll just never know about that calf.

0:55:080:55:11

PROPELLERS WHIR

0:55:130:55:16

I forgot, our eye in the sky!

0:55:170:55:20

'There's still caribou here. There's still caribou.

0:55:230:55:27

'All the way down here there's caribou.'

0:55:270:55:30

Well, good. Don't scare 'em away!

0:55:300:55:33

'About as far as the eye can see, there's caribou all along here.'

0:55:330:55:38

Then this bolt from the blue from a caribou biologist on board.

0:55:400:55:44

'Er, we've just confirmed that Claudia does indeed have a calf.'

0:55:460:55:51

-Oh boy, that's good news.

-'So, just to let you know that Claudia has a calf.'

0:55:510:55:55

Fantastic.

0:55:550:55:57

Oh, that's fantastic. We just lost you now.

0:56:020:56:04

But thanks a lot. We'll see you later.

0:56:040:56:06

So, Claudia's calf made it, despite that arduous trek from Canada.

0:56:180:56:24

It was all worth it.

0:56:240:56:27

It's been amazing to share this incredible journey with these caribou,

0:56:290:56:34

as they've travelled all the way from their wintering grounds to here,

0:56:340:56:38

in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.

0:56:380:56:40

What's been so special is being able to experience some of the hardships they've faced on the way.

0:56:400:56:46

I know I haven't actually got to see Claudia since I got here,

0:56:460:56:50

but it's enough for me to know that Claudia's out there behind me,

0:56:500:56:55

somewhere, safe, and even had a calf.

0:56:550:56:58

For me, my journey's ended here, but for the caribou, constant movement is a way of life.

0:56:590:57:05

They're going to turn their noses down south and pretty soon start the whole process all over again.

0:57:050:57:12

I'd love to go with them, but there's no keeping up with caribou.

0:57:120:57:17

For Claudia's calf, this is just the beginning of a lifetime on the move.

0:57:240:57:29

Her first big hurdle is over. She's survived the first month.

0:57:290:57:33

Now she faces the biggest journey of her life - the long haul south.

0:57:350:57:40

As with all the animals in Incredible Journeys,

0:57:420:57:46

Claudia and her calf are still writing their own story.

0:57:460:57:51

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd - 2007

0:58:080:58:13

E-mail us at [email protected]

0:58:130:58:16

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