Episode 5 Incredible Animal Journeys


Episode 5

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Transcript


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My head's spinning.

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I can only walk a few metres without getting totally out of breath.

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There is no other place like this on the planet.

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This is the roof of the world - Tibet.

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And I've come here to try and solve the mystery

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of one of the most extreme incredible journeys of them all.

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All animal migrations are tough but surely none can be as tough

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as this one.

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-We might be in trouble.

-Oh, look.

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-There, there, there, four.

-Four geese, that's fantastic.

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One unique group of birds seem to defy the laws of nature.

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Bar-headed geese undertake a journey so tough it should kill them all.

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By attempting the same journey myself, I hope to find out just why

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they do it and how on earth they manage to pull through.

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I think they're laughing at us!

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This is the starting point for my mission, the forbidden city

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of Lhasa in Tibet.

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Not that many years ago, I could have been shot on sight for just

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being here.

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No foreigners were allowed in this exotic, isolated mountain citadel.

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Lhasa is one of the highest cities on earth.

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At 12,000 feet, you can get altitude sickness just going shopping around here.

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So where exactly are we?

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Lhasa is the capital of Tibet

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and it's buried in the heart of the Himalayas,

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surrounded by some of the world's highest mountains.

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It's home for part of the year to the extraordinary bar-headed geese.

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In summer, they live on extreme high-altitude lakes in Tibet,

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then, when the winter comes, they fly south to Nepal.

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And this is where we first caught up with them ten months ago.

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Bar-headed geese are unique.

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Their migration takes them higher than any other bird on the planet.

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Where they fly, no other animal dares go.

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To try to understand more about these exceptional animals,

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a team of American and Indian scientists have set up an ambitious

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project to follow the birds on their annual migration.

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The plan is to catch the birds at

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the most southerly end of their migration in Nepal.

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The team use the skills of the local Shikari hunters

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to set a trap for the bar-heads.

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This traditional system holds them by the legs, but won't hurt them in any way.

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Two strong healthy geese are carefully selected and fitted

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with hi-tech satellite transmitters.

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These are extremely lightweight tracking devices

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and won't impede the birds' movement,

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but they will allow us and the scientists to follow their every move.

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Our birds are named after the mountaineers who first climbed Mount Everest.

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So the first goose is called Tenzing.

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Another tracker is attached to the second goose, called Hillary.

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The power units on the trackers should last for the next ten months,

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-time enough to record their entire round trip all the way to Tibet and back.

-Good to go!

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Immediately, the satellite trackers start to transmit the birds' position,

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telling us exactly where they are.

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A few weeks later in mid-March, their journey begins.

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Hillary and Tenzing turned north and flew towards Tibet.

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Would the trackers survive the extreme altitude and cold?

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For that matter, would Hillary and Tenzing?

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In fact, the data we got was awesome.

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We were treated to an hour-by-hour signal as they flew right over

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the top of the Himalayas.

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Hillary and Tenzing flew up to 6,000 metres, that's nearly 20,000 feet,

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and hit speeds of over 50mph.

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Both of our birds then landed on the extreme high-altitude lakes

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and settled down for the summer.

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So what's it like in the goose's world?

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How do they survive at these extreme altitudes?

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And why do they undertake such a death-defying journey?

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To answer these questions, I'm going to try and join them

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in their summer home in Tibet

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and then make the return journey with them back across the Himalayas.

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I'm getting my gear sorted.

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Screws.

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If it all goes according to plan,

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we're going to end up nearly 20,000 feet up a mountain

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for an inflight rendezvous with Hillary and Tenzing.

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Up where we're going to be climbing

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there's a real danger of altitude sickness.

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Fluid leaks into your lungs, or, even worse, leaks into your brain.

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It's potentially fatal.

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Somehow the geese can handle the problems of high altitude

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but it's totally different for us humans.

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I can't just go to where the birds are right away.

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Because if I did, I'd almost certainly die.

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I've got to give my body a chance to adapt to this extreme altitude

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and that takes time.

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So, to begin with, I have to stay in Lhasa to start to acclimatise.

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Lhasa actually means "home of the gods".

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This place is the focus for pilgrims from all over Tibet.

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People will spend literally all day

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prostrating themselves in front of the temple.

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The flagstones are polished smooth by centuries of pilgrims.

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Well, it's time to say goodbye to Lhasa.

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We've had three days here and we're all feeling quite good now.

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So the altitude is having less of an effect, so it's time to go higher.

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And every time we feel good, we just keep adding another thousand feet a day.

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So from now on it's going to be a little less luxurious,

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our accommodation, we're going to be camping, so we need to buy food.

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Sorry!

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Look. Say hello!

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I'm going to definitely miss...

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I'm gonna miss this place. What we're doing here now at the moment

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is just stocking up on provisions and this is a vegetarian's dream, as you can imagine,

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and hoping that by the time we reach the birds, which is in a few days' time,

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that they will still be there.

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Thankfully, they haven't moved at the moment, but they could go at any moment.

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So...time to push on, I suppose.

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Well, we're on our way.

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Wherever we are, the team of scientists

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will regularly update us via a satellite phone

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to tell us exactly where the geese are.

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From the latest update, we know Hillary is pretty much

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out of range for us just now.

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So we've decided to try and meet up with Tenzing.

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But the lake he's on

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is well over 15,000 feet high and it's the other side of a very high pass.

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But why is Tenzing up here?

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Well, high-altitude lakes make for a perfect nesting site.

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Bar-headed geese are able to survive the altitude and the cold,

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but very few other animals can, and that includes predators.

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It's just far too extreme.

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The lakes are simply too high and too difficult for predators

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to get to, so this is a great place for the geese to nest and hatch out

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the next generation of bar-heads.

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During the short summer, there is an explosion of plant growth.

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So, actually, there's loads for the geese and their new families to eat.

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If we can get up to Tenzing

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we will probably find a big goose-nesting site.

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We may even find Tenzing is a proud father

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and has his own little family up here.

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If we can get there.

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To help avoid altitude sickness, we shouldn't climb more than

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300 metres per day.

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The problem is

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finding somewhere to stay overnight which is at the right height.

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We've decided to come down to...

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Well...

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there are several words I can use for it, none of them broadcastable.

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So we're just trying to find some accommodation somewhere.

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The organisation side of things isn't panning out to be just as we'd like,

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but after tonight we're going to be camping so we'll be

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in charge of our own destinies.

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We'll be cold,

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but we'll be in charge of our own destinies.

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How are you describing this accommodation?

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It's completely squalid.

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You'd catch something. Four people to a room, blankets covered in stains,

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filth all over the floor.

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I really don't think we can stay here, but where can we stay?

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I'm mad keen, it sounds perfect!

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So, after a good night's sleep, it's time for a bit of breakfast

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in the local greasy spoon.

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The local roadside butcher

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has just slaughtered himself a couple of yaks

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and everyone's come round to check out the best cuts.

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All nice and fresh and steaming.

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Just what you want to see on a full stomach.

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But we don't mind the look of this.

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The thing we're most worried about is the weather.

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It's sunny enough in the village but winter is just around the corner

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and there are ominous clouds over the surrounding mountains.

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These snow clouds look pretty thick and if we get too much snow,

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it will make crossing the high pass to Tenzing very difficult.

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Even impossible.

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We're just filling up the cars because this is going to be the last

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sort of town that we're going to be in for a while,

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because we're going to head up to the pass which is over 5,000 metres.

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So we're talking probably 16,000, 17,000 feet.

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We don't know how we're going to be able to cope with that,

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but on the other side of that pass is the lake that Tenzing, our male bird, is sat,

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and has been for a while, so...

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It's snowing now.

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That's going to be a problem, I think.

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Well, we've decided to have a crack at the pass

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even though everybody else has turned round.

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We have got a big truck with all our gear in it and that's going to try

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and break through the trail for us and try and bash through the snow.

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We don't know if we'll make it to the other side

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but Tenzing is on the other side waiting at a lake for us.

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This weather might mean that he decides to head south.

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So this might be our only shot.

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We'll see how it goes.

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It's looking all right at the moment.

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Although we're desperate not to miss Tenzing, we have to be very careful,

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this is no place for taking risks.

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If we get into trouble, we're on our own.

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-No. No.

-No? Not possible, no?

-No, no.

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-OK.

-He's getting out.

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He doesn't think it's possible.

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I don't know what he thinks.

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-They're going up.

-We should go on.

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-We should go on?

-I think.

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-This is nothing so far.

-Ah-ha.

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We're about,

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between 4,000 and 5,000 metres,

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and our guide is

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running up the hill.

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Needless to say, I'm ambling.

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Running is beyond me at the moment.

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If I tried to run up here,

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I would

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pass out, I think.

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-Fall down also.

-Slightly concerned.

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We'll find out what's going on.

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Oh, it's a snow plough.

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That's why the roads aren't clear,

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because the snow plough is stuck off the road.

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It's fallen down the ravine.

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That does not bode well.

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I think we should possibly think about a retreat.

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I'm not looking forward to the trip down.

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We might be in trouble.

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It's odd to think I can hardly walk up here without getting exhausted,

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but the geese are warming up for a thousand-mile flight over the highest barrier on earth.

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They're fuelled up, they're super-fit and they're ready to go.

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We need to get up to the lake as fast as possible.

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This pass is rapidly turning into

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our...

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Nemesis...

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and now...

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-the truck is stuck.

-It's stuck.

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He can't get up there, the tyres are very bald.

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So now he has to reverse back down

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and we'll camp and we'll wait till tomorrow morning

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and hope this freezes solid and then we can get over the pass, hopefully.

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Sounds like a plan.

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We've no choice but to camp beside the road and the temperature is starting to plummet.

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That was a good...

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night in the tent.

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It could have been a lot colder.

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Outside it was minus eight,

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but inside the tents it was measured at minus two, so shows what a little

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bit of insulation will do for you.

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The best stuff, the absolute best stuff in the cold,

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is what's inside this jacket.

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And I hate to say it but it is goose down.

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So my apologies to Hillary and Tenzing,

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but it is amazingly warm for the thickness.

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It's only a matter of a centimetre thick, or even thinner than that,

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and it's absolute toast.

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And of course that's the secret of how the geese

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survive the extreme cold up here.

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They've got their own superb down jackets to keep them warm.

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There.

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No, no, no.

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We can hear geese.

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We can't see them, but we can hear them.

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But it's clearing,

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we might get a glimpse of them.

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That's great.

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Maybe Tenzing

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is actually making his way over the pass as we've struggled

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and decided to stop.

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It's much easier to fly.

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This is promising.

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There are definitely geese nearby and the weather's cleared,

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but the temperature's still falling.

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The increasing cold could make the lake freeze over,

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then there'll be no food for Tenzing and that will trigger his journey

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back south where it's warmer.

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We know from the latest data he's still on the lake this morning,

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but he could go at any time.

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The pressure's on.

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But our plan's working -

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the roads froze hard in the night and we've got grip.

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He's not going to move.

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CAR HORN BEEPS

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Now you don't see them getting stuck.

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That's proper all-wheel drive.

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What are they doing up here?

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This is an avalanche that we're driving through.

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I don't know who's cut the path, but it's just come down from this slope here.

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There's quite a lot of snow come down, you can see it's a couple of metres thick here.

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I can't believe this, this is crazy.

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If that could go now, we could have avalanches coming down off the road right on top of us.

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It's pretty extreme stuff.

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Thankfully, our drivers are very brave men and very competent drivers,

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and they've decided to push on through and we're getting

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close to the top of the pass now, so who knows what we're going to see.

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It looks like we're going to make it.

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Absolutely stunning.

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We've done it.

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We got to the top of the pass.

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The cars have come as far as they can.

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What we hoped to do

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is to get down there and see the shore,

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but there's no way we can risk

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travelling down this steep pass, the far side, and not being able

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to get back up again, back to where our truck is with all our supplies.

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But that's what we came to see.

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There it is. That's Tenzing's lake, where he's been all summer.

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But this is as close as we're going to get.

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Well, needless to say, this is

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one hell of a refuge for him

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and all the other geese.

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It's high,

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it's away from many, many predators.

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I'm so happy.

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What an experience.

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What a place.

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Oh, look!

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There, there, there. There's four.

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There, we have. We've definitely got geese.

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-Four geese.

-High up there, do you see them?

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There are four of them in a clump there.

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Four geese, that's fantastic.

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We're at 5,200 metres

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and they're battling into a head wind,

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at least a couple of hundred feet, 200, 300, maybe more, feet above us.

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This is maybe why Tenzing hasn't left.

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They can fly at 50mph,

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but this head wind must be making life so difficult for them.

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They're hardly making any progress.

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No, they're turning back, they're turning back.

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Maybe this is why they haven't left.

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God, and we thought life was tough for us,

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but flying into a head wind

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at this altitude, at this temperature,

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well, just talking about it's knackering for me.

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Being up here has really brought home what the geese are up against.

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It's not just the altitude.

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Up here in the mountains, there's some really extreme weather.

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They may have to contend with winds of 100mph or more.

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If they go for it and they hit the wrong winds, they could be blown

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backwards, trapped on a mountain top or knocked clean out of the sky.

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The timing has to be perfect.

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Tenzing has moved.

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Whilst we were struggling back down the mountain to camp,

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it looks like his journey has actually begun.

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The conditions are getting so harsh,

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the geese have started to head south.

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But he's stopped again.

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So, we're off after him.

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I want to follow him right over the Himalayas, if I possibly can.

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But this still involves pit stops as we go.

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We've got to keep up with our acclimatisation.

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I know we keep banging on about

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acclimatisation and getting acclimatised,

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and I feel I should explain a little bit about what that's about,

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because, you know, our geese are

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superbly designed to actually live up at this altitude and we're not.

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But human bodies and mammal bodies in general

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have an amazing capacity to adapt, given the time.

0:27:200:27:24

We've only been here now a week, or a bit longer than that,

0:27:240:27:27

and we're still in the early stages.

0:27:270:27:29

The body is saying, "Hang on, there's not much oxygen here,

0:27:290:27:33

"let's concentrate the blood."

0:27:330:27:35

Now, to make red blood cells, that takes about two weeks

0:27:350:27:39

before that really starts to kick in

0:27:390:27:41

and we start to get more red blood cells to carry the oxygen.

0:27:410:27:44

What I'm at the stage at the moment, just in this first week, is actually

0:27:440:27:49

just peeing a lot.

0:27:490:27:51

That doesn't sound like a very clever thing for the body to do, but what that's doing

0:27:510:27:55

is actually removing the fluid part of the blood and therefore

0:27:550:27:59

upping the cells part, the red blood cells that carry the oxygen.

0:27:590:28:03

So just by reducing the fluid in the blood,

0:28:030:28:06

you're already sort of increasing the percentage of

0:28:060:28:09

red blood cells, so that's why I have to keep taking a leak.

0:28:090:28:12

We're on our way to Xigaze, Tibet's second biggest city

0:28:190:28:23

and right on our path as we try to follow Tenzing's route.

0:28:230:28:28

And I'm bound to say it's going to be very pleasant

0:28:280:28:31

to stop camping for a night.

0:28:310:28:32

It is odd to look out over what

0:28:420:28:43

looks like a normal town, but realise this is all actually

0:28:430:28:46

three times higher than Britain's highest mountain.

0:28:460:28:51

So far we've been concentrating on Tenzing because he's the only one

0:29:030:29:07

we could hope to get near.

0:29:070:29:09

But in Xigaze, there's been some news.

0:29:110:29:14

We have been hearing from Hillary

0:29:180:29:20

right up till yesterday and then suddenly nothing.

0:29:200:29:24

This could be down to three reasons.

0:29:240:29:26

Her transmitter could have failed, which is unlikely.

0:29:260:29:29

Bad weather could be affecting the reception.

0:29:290:29:31

But there's a third, much more exciting, possibility.

0:29:310:29:35

When she's in the air, when she's actually flying,

0:29:350:29:37

the transmitter won't work very well.

0:29:370:29:39

Now this could mean that

0:29:390:29:41

both our geese, Tenzing and Hillary, are actually on the move.

0:29:410:29:45

We're coming to the hardest part of our mission for the geese and us.

0:29:450:29:49

Next stop, base camp.

0:29:490:29:52

Actually, not Everest base camp.

0:30:000:30:02

We're heading for a different mountain, but along our route

0:30:020:30:06

there's an unmistakeable landmark.

0:30:060:30:09

That there is the biggest mountain in the world.

0:30:120:30:15

Yep, that is Everest.

0:30:150:30:19

It's an interesting thought that this range that our bar-headed geese have to fly over

0:30:190:30:24

is still a young range.

0:30:240:30:26

It's not particularly old and it's still growing,

0:30:260:30:29

and the important thing about that is that it might hold some clue as to why

0:30:290:30:33

bar-headed geese fly over this range, rather than round it like a lot of other birds.

0:30:330:30:39

It's an interesting theory.

0:30:390:30:41

Around 70 million years ago, India crashed into Asia,

0:30:430:30:47

and, as a result of this epic collision, the Himalayas rose up.

0:30:470:30:53

But this all happened in a number of stages bit by bit,

0:30:530:30:56

and it's just possible the ancestors of bar-headed geese were already making this trip

0:30:560:31:02

well before the mountains became so exceptionally high.

0:31:020:31:06

As the Himalayas continued to rise,

0:31:070:31:10

the geese just raised their game with them and flew higher and higher

0:31:100:31:15

until they moved up into a different zone.

0:31:150:31:18

Where we are now, there is half the amount of oxygen

0:31:230:31:26

that there is at sea level.

0:31:260:31:28

It makes doing anything physical desperately hard work.

0:31:280:31:33

You've got to remember we're at 17,000 feet,

0:31:330:31:35

so there's not a great deal of oxygen.

0:31:350:31:37

That's why we've got to take it in turns to do the digging -

0:31:370:31:40

I'm at the back of the queue!

0:31:400:31:42

That's it, I'm just starting to feel

0:31:510:31:55

slightly dizzy now.

0:31:550:31:58

I've been going about two minutes

0:31:580:32:02

and yet all I'm doing is just lightly tossing this snow

0:32:020:32:08

and it's, er,

0:32:080:32:11

it's knackering.

0:32:110:32:12

This mountain is Shishmapangma, an 8,000-metre peak.

0:32:180:32:24

The data shows that both Hillary and Tenzing

0:32:240:32:27

crossed just to one side on their northward journey up to Tibet.

0:32:270:32:32

If our calculations are right,

0:32:320:32:34

it's most likely they will fly back south this way using the same route.

0:32:340:32:39

If we can get up high enough to the goose fly-by zone, we might

0:32:410:32:45

just be there when they go by, but we've still got another 1,000 metres to go.

0:32:450:32:52

This will be the toughest part of the journey for us

0:32:520:32:56

and Hillary and Tenzing.

0:32:560:32:57

No other bird on earth regularly flies this high.

0:33:070:33:10

Where they go, there is less than one third the amount of oxygen

0:33:100:33:15

that there is at sea level and it can be minus 50 degrees.

0:33:150:33:19

The geese can fly up to 50mph but add on a possible tailwind of up to 100mph

0:33:210:33:28

and they can slingshot over the roof of the world in a matter of hours.

0:33:280:33:33

This whole migration can be over in a single day.

0:33:330:33:37

But, then again, the conditions have to be perfect

0:34:100:34:13

and they can change at the drop of a hat.

0:34:130:34:17

It got to, I think, minus 19, I think, last night.

0:34:580:35:03

I just want to get up,

0:35:030:35:05

do that final push, get up over...

0:35:050:35:08

these mountains and down the other side and down into lower altitude,

0:35:080:35:12

where I'm going to feel so much better.

0:35:120:35:16

I don't know, maybe the geese feel that way as well,

0:35:160:35:19

the ones that have done it before.

0:35:190:35:21

The kiddies of this season might not know what's going to hit them,

0:35:210:35:25

but the adults certainly will, and maybe that's why they're delaying,

0:35:250:35:29

because they feel as crap as I do.

0:35:290:35:31

My problem is I can't get enough oxygen out of the air up here.

0:35:310:35:35

My body is really struggling,

0:35:350:35:38

but how on earth do the geese actually manage to do it?

0:35:380:35:41

Well, the answer is, they're mutants.

0:35:440:35:48

Way back in their evolution, something amazing happened.

0:35:480:35:53

Bar-heads developed a mutation

0:35:530:35:55

that altered the chemical composition of their blood.

0:35:550:35:58

This mutation allowed their blood to extract far more oxygen from every breath,

0:35:580:36:02

which enabled the bar-headed geese to cope with the effects of altitude with no troubles at all.

0:36:020:36:09

Unlike me.

0:36:100:36:12

There's now no way we are physically capable of carrying our gear ourselves

0:36:170:36:21

and it's the end of the road for the vehicles. So it's over to yak power.

0:36:230:36:28

Like geese, yaks are highly specialised

0:36:360:36:39

to live up at these heights.

0:36:390:36:41

I wish I could say the same for me because, despite our careful calculations,

0:36:410:36:45

I'm starting to worry altitude sickness may have got me in its grip.

0:36:480:36:52

I'm feeling grim.

0:36:520:36:53

I get migraines quite commonly

0:36:550:36:58

and I've had...

0:36:580:37:01

a migraine now

0:37:010:37:03

for about three days.

0:37:030:37:05

Now, the problem with that is,

0:37:050:37:07

there's another thing that happens at altitude, which is

0:37:070:37:10

your brain swells, you get what they call cerebral oedema,

0:37:100:37:15

and if that's what I've got, and it's not a migraine, then that

0:37:150:37:19

can be very, very serious, so I think the option

0:37:190:37:22

to take really is to get

0:37:220:37:25

to lower altitude as soon as possible

0:37:250:37:27

because...

0:37:270:37:29

I can't go on feeling like this.

0:37:310:37:34

Despite desperately wanting to carry on and being tantalisingly close to our goal,

0:37:370:37:43

it's clear to everyone that this is the end of the line for me.

0:37:430:37:47

The problem is I can't tell whether

0:37:470:37:49

-it's a migraine or not, and that's...

-We can't take any chances at all.

0:37:490:37:53

-It's just been going on too long now.

-Yes.

0:37:530:37:56

Obviously things haven't turned out the way that we hoped,

0:38:260:38:29

but Steve has been getting worse and worse over the past three days and we just can't take any chances.

0:38:290:38:35

Which is a shame because today was going to be our big push.

0:38:350:38:38

We were going to try and get as high as we possibly could,

0:38:380:38:41

maybe even up to goose fly-by level,

0:38:410:38:44

and we had everything we needed.

0:38:440:38:47

We've got the yaks, we've got fantastic weather

0:38:470:38:50

and we spent 14 days acclimatising, trying to getting our bodies ready to get up there,

0:38:500:38:56

but it seems our bodies just can't take it.

0:38:560:38:59

Altitude sickness is a potential killer

0:38:590:39:03

and the only sure way to reduce the symptoms

0:39:030:39:06

is to get down to lower altitude just as fast as possible.

0:39:060:39:09

We've failed.

0:39:090:39:12

It's only when you stop feeling bad that you realise just how bad you did feel.

0:40:290:40:36

And now I'm down at much lower altitude,

0:40:370:40:41

the nausea has gone, the headache's gone,

0:40:410:40:46

I'm warm again,

0:40:460:40:47

but I miss being up there.

0:40:490:40:52

It was such a strange and stunning place.

0:40:520:40:58

It might be the last time I get to that sort of altitude

0:41:010:41:05

and there really is no other place on earth like it, really.

0:41:050:41:11

You just look around and you see all these peaks and you just want

0:41:110:41:14

to go to the top of them and I can understand why people do that now.

0:41:140:41:18

And I can understand why people die up there as well,

0:41:200:41:23

just refusing to accept that

0:41:230:41:26

they shouldn't be there.

0:41:260:41:28

Next stop, Nepal.

0:41:450:41:48

Thank you very, very much.

0:41:500:41:53

Oh, here we go, it's tied as well.

0:41:530:41:55

-Thank you.

-Thank you very much. Bye.

0:42:040:42:06

Bye-bye. Bye!

0:42:060:42:07

It's so strange, this whole trip has been about the hardship of

0:42:160:42:20

getting out of Tibet and getting over those mountains

0:42:200:42:22

and dealing with the altitude, that I haven't thought about Nepal,

0:42:220:42:26

where we're going or where the geese are going.

0:42:260:42:28

And now it's happening and I have no idea what to expect.

0:42:280:42:31

I've never been there before but I'm really looking forward to it.

0:42:310:42:36

We're heading for Nepal because that's where the geese were tagged

0:42:370:42:41

and that's where they'll finish their journey if and when they cross the mountains.

0:42:410:42:46

But it's starting to get just a bit late.

0:42:480:42:51

As I'm crossing the border,

0:42:540:42:56

Hillary and Tenzing are still in Tibet up on the high-altitude lakes.

0:42:560:43:01

The geese are massing together in groups close to the mountains, waiting, but waiting for what?

0:43:010:43:08

The geese know by the change in day length that it's time to go.

0:43:100:43:14

Perhaps they're waiting for exactly the right weather.

0:43:140:43:17

Right now they seem to be stuffing their faces,

0:43:200:43:23

getting as much fuel on board as they possibly can.

0:43:230:43:25

This one flight will burn a huge amount of energy.

0:43:250:43:29

And talking about energy, we may have a problem.

0:43:300:43:35

The power supplies on the satellite transmitters Hillary and Tenzing are carrying

0:43:350:43:40

are only supposed to last ten months and that time is more or less up.

0:43:400:43:44

All I can do now is try and get ahead of them and wait for them

0:43:480:43:51

at their final destination in Nepal.

0:43:510:43:54

Hello!

0:44:050:44:07

HORN BEEPS

0:44:070:44:09

Well, they're still behind those mountains.

0:44:190:44:22

It seems that Hillary and Tenzing haven't found the motivation to fly all the way over here yet.

0:44:220:44:28

And, standing here, we can only guess why that isn't so.

0:44:280:44:31

It could be the extreme cold on the other side,

0:44:310:44:34

it could be that they're waiting for the right winds,

0:44:340:44:36

or it could be something more sinister.

0:44:360:44:39

You see, they might not come over here at all.

0:44:390:44:42

Flying over the Himalayas isn't the only problem they have to face.

0:44:420:44:48

On top of bad weather and transmitter problems,

0:44:480:44:51

there's now something else to worry about.

0:44:510:44:53

Something that's been making headline news.

0:44:530:44:56

China has become the latest Asian country to confirm an outbreak of

0:44:560:45:00

bird flu. Today, China confirmed two new outbreaks of the virus.

0:45:000:45:04

Earlier this year, the flu virus killed 6,000 wild geese and ducks

0:45:040:45:09

in China's Qinghai Lake.

0:45:090:45:11

That's worrying because it's a staging post for migratory birds.

0:45:110:45:15

Millions of years of evolution have prepared Hillary and Tenzing

0:45:170:45:21

for flying over the highest mountains in the world,

0:45:210:45:24

but nothing could possibly have prepared them for the bird flu.

0:45:240:45:27

It looks like thousands of geese have already died

0:45:290:45:32

and if our birds are on lakes with

0:45:320:45:34

infected birds, this journey could come to an abrupt halt.

0:45:340:45:38

But we have to remain hopeful.

0:45:430:45:46

We know from the latest data,

0:45:460:45:48

the geese are still moving around on the other side.

0:45:480:45:51

So I'm rushing towards Royal Chitwan National Park,

0:45:510:45:55

the very same place Hillary and Tenzing were tagged nearly a year ago,

0:45:550:45:59

to wait for them to arrive.

0:45:590:46:01

It's amazing that their tiny little transmitters are still

0:46:010:46:05

kicking out a signal but, worryingly, it looks like Hillary's battery

0:46:050:46:10

is starting to fade.

0:46:100:46:11

Royal Chitwan is an amazing place,

0:46:150:46:18

absolutely teeming with spectacular wildlife.

0:46:180:46:23

It's famous for its wild Indian rhinoceros.

0:46:230:46:26

And it's famous for its tigers.

0:46:280:46:31

But what's the attraction for bar-headed geese?

0:46:350:46:38

Well, during the winter, this place is fantastically lush.

0:46:410:46:45

There's just no comparison with the high-altitude lakes in Tibet.

0:46:450:46:49

There's tons of food for hungry geese.

0:46:490:46:53

So you might think this would be paradise for Hillary and Tenzing?

0:46:530:46:57

Well, not really.

0:46:570:46:58

Royal Chitwan has a dark side.

0:46:580:47:01

Dhan Badur has worked here all his life.

0:47:040:47:08

So this is obviously quite an excellent place for the birds to live,

0:47:080:47:11

but quite dangerous as well, I suppose?

0:47:110:47:14

Yes, it is, yes.

0:47:140:47:15

You have to be very careful when you walk through the bushes. Anything could happen.

0:47:150:47:20

-This is a very good area for the tigers and the rhino.

-OK.

0:47:230:47:28

-OK?

-Right.

0:47:280:47:29

Steve, look, the tiger tracks.

0:47:370:47:39

Thanks. Is that a male or female?

0:47:410:47:43

-Female.

-Beautiful.

0:47:430:47:45

-Lovely tracks.

-It came this way from this grassland here.

0:47:450:47:48

So probably going to look for some deer?

0:47:480:47:51

Yes, probably.

0:47:510:47:52

You've never had an accident with them? You managed to get away obviously?

0:48:000:48:04

Yeah, nearly, nearly, many times, but not yet.

0:48:040:48:07

Yes.

0:48:070:48:09

-Right, I'll stick with you then.

-OK.

0:48:090:48:11

I don't want to lose you here.

0:48:110:48:13

Yeah. Good, I don't want you to lose me here either!

0:48:130:48:17

OK, so we'll go a little bit up and check whatever there.

0:48:180:48:22

See the tall grass?

0:48:300:48:32

Could be there somewhere.

0:48:320:48:34

That's the ideal sort of hiding place then, is it?

0:48:360:48:38

Yes, that's quite a good place for the tigers.

0:48:380:48:42

Also here it's quite good because we have here safe area.

0:48:420:48:45

So you always keep an eye out for trees?

0:48:450:48:48

Yeah, keep an eye on tree.

0:48:480:48:51

So we'll call that one Steve's tree.

0:48:510:48:52

-Steve's tree, OK.

-OK. Which one's Dan's tree?

0:48:520:48:55

That one.

0:48:550:48:57

-Steve, are you coming?

-Yes, yeah, yeah, I'm still here.

0:49:050:49:08

This is a very dangerous place.

0:49:100:49:12

I wish he wouldn't keep saying that!

0:49:120:49:15

Now, I understand this obviously is a dangerous place to walk around on foot for a human.

0:49:290:49:34

What's it like for our geese? Is it dangerous for them?

0:49:340:49:37

Pretty dangerous for them too, because we have lots of predators

0:49:370:49:42

-like jackals, jungle cat, bird of prey, so many things.

-Yeah.

0:49:420:49:47

So they have to keep their eyes and ears open?

0:49:470:49:50

They have to be careful too, yes.

0:49:500:49:52

So, although Royal Chitwan is lush and beautiful,

0:49:530:49:56

this is a very dangerous place for the birds to come to at the end of their migration.

0:49:560:50:01

There are so many potential predators out to get them.

0:50:010:50:05

If the geese didn't get driven away because of the extreme cold in winter,

0:50:140:50:18

they would probably be much better off staying in Tibet all the year round, never migrating at all.

0:50:180:50:25

But they have no choice.

0:50:250:50:27

I know how they do it and now I know why they do it.

0:50:300:50:36

There's just one final question -

0:50:360:50:39

are they going to do it?

0:50:390:50:41

Right now, I'm getting concerned we may never find out,

0:50:520:50:56

because the transmitters' batteries are due to fail any time now.

0:50:560:51:01

The ten months is very nearly up.

0:51:010:51:04

And once they switch off,

0:51:040:51:06

it's game over.

0:51:060:51:07

In any normal year, the geese would have arrived here long before now,

0:51:220:51:27

but this year they are late, getting on very late.

0:51:270:51:31

We're scouring the park day in, day out.

0:51:350:51:38

There's not a sign of a single goose.

0:51:380:51:42

There are actually only around 18,000 pairs of bar-headed geese left in the world.

0:51:550:52:00

They are very nearly an endangered species.

0:52:000:52:03

And because there are so few, the fact that they haven't managed

0:52:060:52:09

to cross the mountains yet is concerning.

0:52:090:52:13

They're late, they're very late,

0:52:130:52:16

which is disappointing for our film but it's actually even more worrying just for them

0:52:160:52:20

because it isn't a big population.

0:52:200:52:22

I hope they're OK.

0:52:220:52:26

I'm having to get my head around the idea

0:52:330:52:35

that I'll never find out what happened to Hillary and Tenzing.

0:52:350:52:39

And I have to say, after all I've been through to try and follow their story,

0:52:390:52:43

it's a hard thought to swallow.

0:52:430:52:45

But, just when we thought it was all over, we're back in business.

0:52:500:52:55

Just before the transmitters stopped working - and I do mean just before,

0:52:590:53:04

it was only a matter of a few days - Hillary and Tenzing made their move.

0:53:040:53:08

They crossed the Himalayas, but, true to form,

0:53:080:53:11

they're still not following the script.

0:53:110:53:13

They didn't stop in Nepal,

0:53:130:53:15

they headed on and on, all the way to here - India.

0:53:150:53:19

We know exactly where they landed,

0:53:240:53:26

but now the transmitters have switched off

0:53:260:53:29

and stopped transmitting for ever.

0:53:290:53:32

-So what the

-BLEEP

-are we going to do?

0:53:350:53:39

I've come too far and suffered too much.

0:53:460:53:50

I'm simply not prepared to give up now.

0:53:500:53:52

But I have to say, it's beginning to feel like mission impossible.

0:53:520:53:56

There's just one more final possibility.

0:54:090:54:12

When battery power fails, people power has to take over.

0:54:120:54:16

This is a really rural part of India.

0:54:230:54:27

People are out working in the fields from dawn to dusk.

0:54:270:54:32

Is it possible someone has seen Hillary or Tenzing?

0:54:440:54:48

THEY SPEAK LOCAL LANGUAGE

0:54:480:54:53

They were sitting around the area of the river where he spends a lot of time.

0:54:590:55:06

He saw them flying by at sort of eye level.

0:55:060:55:10

When I spoke to him on that day, that's what he said.

0:55:100:55:13

So did he understand it was a bar-headed goose or does he not

0:55:130:55:17

really have an interest in birds?

0:55:170:55:19

I showed him the birds and he said, "Oh, yeah, there were

0:55:190:55:22

"three or four. One of them had a red band around its neck".

0:55:220:55:26

And that pretty much identifies the bird because now I've shown him

0:55:260:55:32

the bird in the bird book and it is the same bird.

0:55:320:55:37

That hardly seems possible.

0:55:370:55:39

In the vastness of India,

0:55:390:55:42

we have an eyewitness who's actually seen Hillary.

0:55:420:55:46

Could Hillary still be here?

0:55:550:55:58

And where exactly did she finally choose to end her migration?

0:55:580:56:02

I'm using a handheld GPS to find the exact spot Hillary made her final transmission.

0:56:150:56:21

Well, this is the place.

0:56:350:56:37

This is where, before her transmitter turned off, the last fix we got for Hillary was here.

0:56:370:56:43

Well, it was within a stone's throw of this very position.

0:56:430:56:47

And not only that, we've got an eye-witness account.

0:56:470:56:50

Someone has actually clapped eyes on that red collar of hers.

0:56:500:56:53

So we can say for definite she made it.

0:56:530:56:57

Hillary chose well.

0:56:590:57:02

This is probably a far better bet than the dangers of Royal Chitwan.

0:57:020:57:06

There's no possibility of being ambushed by tigers or jackals.

0:57:060:57:09

Hillary and Tenzing have led me a merry dance.

0:57:160:57:19

But because of this project, we're just that little bit closer

0:57:190:57:23

to understanding the extraordinary world of the bar-headed goose.

0:57:230:57:27

And now that I've discovered for myself exactly what these geese

0:57:320:57:36

actually go through, I have nothing but respect for these truly extreme animals.

0:57:360:57:41

And even though I didn't find them,

0:57:430:57:45

it's enough to know that Hillary and Tenzing did definitely make it.

0:57:450:57:50

But, wherever they may be now, these two extraordinary geese

0:57:540:57:59

are still writing their own stories.

0:57:590:58:02

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd, 2006

0:58:430:58:45

E-mail [email protected]

0:58:450:58:48

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