Autumn The Polar Bear Family & Me


Autumn

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The polar bear.

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The world's largest and most dangerous carnivore.

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I'm Gordon Buchanan,

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and I've spent two decades filming predators in extreme locations.

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Now I've come to the Arctic to get closer to polar bears

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than anyone before.

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No way, mate! No luck.

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Oh, well. The next thing on the menu is the film crew.

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But this is the toughest project yet.

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Go, go, go, go, go!

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This bear is paying us too much attention.

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We just had to get out of there.

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I've been following a single polar bear family -

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Lyra and her cub, Miki -

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to see how they really live.

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Every single day is a series of challenges,

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a series of hardships.

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It's not been easy,

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and it's about to get a whole lot harder.

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Following my bears in autumn could prove impossible,

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and they're on the edge of starvation.

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I'm here, one last time, to see if Miki will survive.

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It's September and I'm back in the Arctic.

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'I want to reconnect with my polar bear family.

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I last saw them in July.

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I'm dying to see how they're doing now.

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But finding two bears in this enormous wilderness

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is not going to be easy.

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We'll set up a base in a cabin on the shore

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and start our search from there.

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And, boy, this place has changed! Changed again.

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The warm summer has transformed the Arctic.

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Snow and ice has given way to barren ground.

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With me is Arctic expert Jason Roberts.

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Jason's had more experience with polar bears

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than almost anyone alive.

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Luxury accommodation, Gordon(!)

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I keep expecting to show up here

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and it's been flattened by the wind or by a huge polar bear.

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As we prepare to settle in, I see we aren't the only visitors.

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This is quite a sobering thought.

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A polar bear's pushed through this glass,

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exactly onto the position where I sleep.

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Imagine that - fast asleep,

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and you hear a noise and you look up,

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and a polar bear's bust this window right on top of you.

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Back in March, six months ago, I stayed in this very same cabin.

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It was incredible to film a moment few people have ever seen...

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..a mother polar bear and her cubs emerging from their birth den.

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This is the best thing ever really.

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Lyra and her two little ones, Miki and Luca.

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I knew that keeping cubs Miki and Luca alive

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would be a huge challenge for Lyra.

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For me, the challenge would be staying with them.

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Hi. Gordon.

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Very good to meet you.

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'I helped biologist Dr Jon Aars

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'fit a revolutionary satellite-tracking collar on Lyra.

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'He wants to learn how polar bears are coping

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'with a rapidly-warming Arctic.

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'For me, it was the start of a bond

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'that grew stronger as the months went by.'

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How does it sound if I follow you around,

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become good friends, until you get big enough to eat me?

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While Jon tracks Lyra's movements from his computer back in Norway,

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I've been on the ground, staying as close to my bears as I can.

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It's been an amazing journey.

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I've shared so much with these bears, both highs and lows.

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When I reported to Jon that Lyra had lost her weaker cub, Luca,

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I was devastated.

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I think it's just a testament to how incredible these animals are

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that she's been able to keep this one cub alive.

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When I last saw my bears,

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Lyra and Miki were stranded on a string of islands

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and close to starvation.

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Now I'm back, I'm desperate

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to find my bear family again and to see whether Miki is still alive.

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It isn't going to be easy.

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Lyra and Miki are somewhere around here,

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but we don't know exactly where.

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'Lyra's collar has started to malfunction.'

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So when was the last fix we got on Lyra?

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It's not good news.

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The last fix is about four weeks ago,

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so it's going to be a bit of a guess where she's actually located.

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I'm worried that finding Lyra is going to be impossible.

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With winter approaching, we can't risk staying here too long.

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-Gordon.

-Yeah.

-Time to roll.

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OK.

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'Next morning, our search begins.'

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Sleep OK?

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Yeah, not bad actually.

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A little bit cold in the night.

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I don't know who was snoring, if it was one of us or the walrus outside.

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We'll head to the collar's last position and start from there.

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From then on, it's down to our knowledge of our bears.

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There's a real chance Miki won't have made it.

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This year, scientists observed less Arctic sea ice

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than since records began in the '70s,

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possibly the least amount of ice in 3 million years.

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Normally, the sea ice remains until late August,

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but this year, it melted almost two months early.

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Polar bears eat seals.

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Seals breed and rest on the ice.

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Without the ice, Lyra can't hunt.

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She and Miki may not survive.

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We've been looking for Lyra and Miki all morning.

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We pass the radio collar position from four weeks ago

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and, not surprisingly, no sign of our bears.

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They could have travelled hundreds of miles in the last month.

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You can expect minus temperatures, snow at this time of year.

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It's very windy and very wet, quite cold,

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but it's a long way from freezing.

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It's hard to imagine that this place is actually going to freeze up

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over the next couple of months.

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This just seems like a wet afternoon in the west coast of Scotland.

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That's what the polar bears are waiting for -

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they are waiting for the first signs of winter.

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Winter is a time that they can start hunting again,

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but they need the sea to freeze

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and it feels a very, very long way away from that at the moment.

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We decide to scan the coastline.

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We're thinking it's the best place for Lyra to look for food now.

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Perhaps a walrus washed up on the shore.

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And it looks like our hunch might be right.

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A couple of polar bears up on the slope here,

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and the good thing about this area is it's quite sheltered,

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and it's maybe going to let us get ashore.

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I really hope this is Lyra and Miki.

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They look the right size.

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It's a female with a cub of this year.

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We'll have to get much closer to find out if it is them.

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Back out, Oskar.

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They're incredibly camouflaged when they're muddy and dirty but...

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I know, gosh! Blend in with the mountainside.

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They're the right size. We've got a smaller... We've got a cub up top.

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Looks like a mother further down.

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If we can pick up a collar...

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They've turned round, facing back towards us so...

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-Yeah, I can definitely see a collar.

-Yeah?

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-It's definitely Lyra.

-Is it her?

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It's a huge relief to have found them.

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Six weeks ago, they were together

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but anything could have happened in that time,

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and to find both of them still together is magnificent.

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But Lyra is not looking good.

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My two carnivores have resorted to eating hillside moss.

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For this time of year, we expect her to be lean,

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but she's looking a lot worse than I would have expected actually so...

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And it's only early in the autumn, so she still has four, five months

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before she has some good hunting,

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so she'll be scavenging for a long time still.

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So the chance is that, in the last six weeks,

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she hasn't had significant meal.

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I think in the last six weeks, she's basically eaten a bit of moss.

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There's not even grass on these mountains for her to eat.

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There's a bit of lichen on the rocks and a bit of moss,

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and that's about it.

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For a polar bear, moss has little nutritional benefit...

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..but it might just stave off Lyra's hunger pangs.

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It's a huge relief to have found both of them still alive,

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both together, but that relief is tinged with worry.

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It's going to be a long time before the sea re-freezes,

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before she's going to be able to hunt on the sea ice,

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the sea ice that polar bears need,

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and the big worry is whether she can actually last that long.

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As we film Lyra and Miki,

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they move down the hillside to the seaweed washed up on the shore.

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So I suppose a vegetarian diet for a carnivore

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-is not the best thing, Jason.

-No.

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I think, occasionally, it helps them to eat some kelp, some seaweed -

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gets a bit of salt in their diet, so they like it as an extra,

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but as their prime source of food at the moment, it's not the best.

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You can see how narrow she is around the rear end there -

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really very, very slim.

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You see her top shoulder bone sticking up high.

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There's meat still there,

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but there's definitely no fat or blubber on her.

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If you contrast her with Miki,

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he's healthy and fat-looking,

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and that's because he's been feeding off of Lyra's milk.

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He's doing well.

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There's plenty for him to eat,

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or at least plenty for him to drink.

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Poor Lyra has been really...

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..deprived of all food.

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It's hard to be objective about an animal you've grown so close to.

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I know how hard Lyra has struggled to keep Miki alive.

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I really feel for her.

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She's been such a nice bear from the first moment

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we met her at a den when she put her head out.

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-I feel so comfortable with her...

-Yeah.

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..that she's not going to turn on us or do anything.

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I mean, do you think we can trust her entirely,

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or do you think there's going to be a balance

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where her hunger is going to make her change her attitude towards us?

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There's always that final, do you trust her,

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do you not trust her, all the way?

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I trust her most of the way, but you never know with them.

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Especially at moments like this,

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-when she's obviously getting very hungry.

-Mm.

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This family are desperate.

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They can survive like this for a while, but for how much longer?

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Seeing the Arctic like this,

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it seems like an unlikely place to find Lyra and Miki feeding.

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There's not any snow in sight,

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but when you think about the evolutionary history of polar bears,

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it makes a lot more sense.

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All present day bear species evolved from a common ancestor.

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What that ancestor did was move out, branch, expand

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and populate different habitats across the world,

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and each one of those bear species

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became very good at living in a particular habitat.

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Grizzly bears are the polar bears' closest relative,

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but they've evolved for warmer landscapes.

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They'll happily eat plants as well as meat.

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Their diet is less specialised.

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But recent evidence suggests polar bears have spent

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four million years adapting to hunt seals on the ice.

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Now, the Arctic sea ice is vanishing so rapidly,

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it seems unlikely that polar bears can adapt in time.

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If the ice continues to disappear, their future looks uncertain.

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Back at the cabin, I call biologist Jon Aars on the satellite phone.

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-'Hello.'

-Hi, Jon, it's Gordon here.

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We've found Lyra and Miki, and both are alive but Miki looks great -

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very fat and healthy - but Lyra's looking really quite thin.

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You can tell that, since I was last here,

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she really hasn't had that much to eat.

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'OK, so she's eaten very, very little.'

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Cub survival rates are the best measure

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of the health of a polar bear population.

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And, this year, with so little ice,

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my observations are even more valuable for Jon.

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'He wants me to check exactly what Lyra is eating on the shoreline.'

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-OK, Jon, thank you very much.

-'Yeah, thank you. Thanks a lot.'

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Cheers. Bye. Bye.

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In the Arctic, we're at the mercy of the elements.

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With rough weather, our boat isn't safe anchored here.

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The Havsel has to pull out,

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and we don't want to get stranded at the cabin.

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The conditions have got much worse.

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The wind's picked up, so the sea has picked up.

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Visibility is almost down to nothing,

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so we're not going to be able to get ashore and look for Lyra,

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so we're going to head back to the Havsel.

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This is the hardest place I've ever tried to work.

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It's not just the weather.

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It's so remote, wild, and unforgiving.

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Forget the polar bears, getting on and off this boat is about the most dangerous thing we can do.

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I really want to help Jon understand how Lyra and Miki are surviving...

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..but I can't do that if I'm stuck onboard.

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The next morning, we move the Havsel as close to Lyra's beach as we can.

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The crew scan the coast for any sign of the bears...

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..and eventually find them -

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two small dots on the shore.

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I just don't know what she's doing here.

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You've got an animal that can walk huge distances,

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can swim huge distances.

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Lyra could go anywhere that she wants,

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and I don't know whether that's been an error on her part,

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whether she came down here because it's a place that she knows,

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a place where she's done well in years before,

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but this year, she is not doing well here, not doing well at all.

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I can only imagine the incredible journey

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Lyra has taken over the last six months.

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In April, with two tiny cubs, she headed out onto the sea ice.

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She drifted west with the ice...

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..and then made her way up the coast.

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She probably had to swim long distances.

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It may have been on one of these swims that she lost Luca.

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Lyra and Miki have travelled over a thousand miles.

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She's returned to within a few miles of the den

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where her cubs were born - an amazing feat of navigation.

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At last the wind drops and we attempt to get to Lyra.

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It's too windy to get this boat in the water,

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so we're going to take the Zodiac into the shore.

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The ice makes conditions very difficult to work in,

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but, actually, it's worse when it's like this.

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'The water is only just above freezing,

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'the wind is biting.

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'Jason and I are wearing full survival suits.

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'If we fell into the water without the suits,

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'we'd be dead before the Havsel could send a boat to rescue us.'

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This is pretty bad conditions.

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The visibility isn't much of a problem,

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but the big problem is the sea state, the wind.

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If finding polar bears wasn't hard enough,

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when you add the weather conditions like this,

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it makes it almost impossible.

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We've actually run aground here. It's really very, very shallow.

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That's why we can't bring the big boat in close.

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What is this, less than a metre?

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Gosh!

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This is what makes filming polar bears so damn dangerous -

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these conditions, unchartered waters.

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There's something quite apocalyptic about this scene.

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These two dirty animals scavenging on the shoreline here -

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it's not an iconic animal in a pristine wilderness.

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And this may well be the future for polar bears.

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This may be a scene that is repeated throughout the Arctic -

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polar bears struggling to survive on land when they should be on ice.

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They're feeding on something, I can see something in the kelp.

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Don't know what that is, it kind of looks like eggs,

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but there's a cluster of them.

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There wouldn't be a cluster of eggs, not at this time of year.

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'It's hard to believe there's any food here for a polar bear.

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'But Lyra IS definitely eating something.

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This is where she was, she was right here.

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Look at this - it's all...fishing floats.

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She can't have been eating them.

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Oh, actually you can see there's tooth marks on these floats.

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They'd have been entirely covered in plastic -

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it's a kind of rigid polystyrene -

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and she has been chewing away on that.

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This is something that is filling her stomach full of plastic,

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possibly full of toxins,

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something that has absolutely zero nutritional benefit.

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That's what she's been doing.

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What an absolutely grim vision -

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these two animals reduced to, not just scavenging on the beach,

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but actually eating plastic,

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eating stuff that human beings have thrown over the side of ships.

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I really am worried about Lyra and the next couple of months.

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This is the hardest time for polar bears in a normal year.

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She is down on her luck,

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she has hardly fed on a substantial meal for months now.

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The fact that she's chewing on this stuff

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just shows that she is literally starving.

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I really worry whether she is able, whether she has the reserves

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to see it through the next couple of months,

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and Miki, despite the fact that he looks healthy enough,

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without his mother, he's doomed.

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Back on the bridge of the Havsel, we want to report back to Jon.

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He needs to know what we've seen.

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The fact that Lyra's eating plastic just shows how she's struggling.

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I'm worried that Lyra's milk will dry up.

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When I was last here, I filmed Miki suckling.

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He'll need his mother's milk for another year.

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But Lyra has to eat to produce milk.

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There's no ice for her to hunt on,

0:25:570:26:00

and she's used all of her fat,

0:26:000:26:02

and is now converting her own muscle into milk.

0:26:020:26:05

Lyra is wasting away.

0:26:070:26:09

When we next get back to Lyra, she looks worse than ever.

0:26:270:26:31

It's heart-breaking to see Lyra like this.

0:26:410:26:44

And if she's in trouble, Miki's in danger, too.

0:26:460:26:50

I wonder if she's going to let Miki suckle.

0:26:520:26:55

Miki wanted to suckle but...

0:27:050:27:07

She recognised that look in his eyes.

0:27:080:27:12

Lyra's refusing to let Miki suckle.

0:27:160:27:20

It's the first time we've seen her turn him down.

0:27:200:27:22

For Lyra, this is terribly hard.

0:27:250:27:28

She wants to keep feeding him, but she can't produce enough milk.

0:27:300:27:33

Eventually, Lyra's milk will completely dry up.

0:27:400:27:44

Miki may not survive.

0:27:460:27:48

Ah, they are beautiful.

0:27:530:27:55

The next morning, I want to get straight back out.

0:28:410:28:44

I'm worried Lyra may stop feeding Miki altogether.

0:28:460:28:50

But the weather closes in and we're stuck onboard.

0:28:500:28:54

Every moment that passes, I'm losing vital time with my bear family.

0:29:020:29:07

I keep thinking we're the only ship out here,

0:29:160:29:19

but listening to the radio,

0:29:190:29:20

there's weather warnings, some ships in trouble.

0:29:200:29:23

Just behind us, a big Russian fishing ship's come in to shelter.

0:29:230:29:27

One thing's for sure - there won't be a single ship that's not at anchor.

0:29:270:29:31

Anyone that's in this part of the Arctic is doing what we're doing,

0:29:310:29:35

looking for the safest, most sheltered place.

0:29:350:29:37

-Everything OK?

-Yeah, we're just dropping a second anchor.

0:29:370:29:40

-A second anchor.

-We can stay forever.

0:29:400:29:44

THEY CHUCKLE

0:29:440:29:45

Forever! We might have to stay forever.

0:29:450:29:48

It's better to do it right now because later on...

0:29:480:29:51

-It could get worse?

-Yeah.

0:29:510:29:53

We lose a whole day to the wind and rain,

0:30:110:30:14

and, the next morning, Lyra's gone.

0:30:140:30:17

Without a working collar, we don't know where to start looking for her.

0:30:200:30:25

If she was still up on that ridge,

0:30:250:30:27

we'd be able to see her from here, wouldn't we?

0:30:270:30:29

Each morning, we have to try and relocate Lyra,

0:30:290:30:32

and we're hoping she's on the same stretch of coastline.

0:30:320:30:35

The only means of transport, really, that we have,

0:30:350:30:38

beyond walking, are the boats,

0:30:380:30:40

and if she does go into the middle of the island,

0:30:400:30:42

she can walk much faster than us,

0:30:420:30:44

and trying to keep up with her on foot is going to be next to impossible.

0:30:440:30:48

We head back out.

0:31:020:31:04

But no joy. She's moved off and we can't find her.

0:31:070:31:11

This is bad news.

0:31:140:31:15

I only have just over a week left in the Arctic.

0:31:170:31:19

If we can't locate Lyra and Miki, that's it, the end of our project.

0:31:210:31:26

In hopes of finding her, we head for a nearby glacier.

0:31:370:31:41

Maybe she's come here in search of seals.

0:31:430:31:46

We've got this beautiful glacial wall here.

0:31:550:31:58

It just looks like marble.

0:31:580:32:00

This is snow that fell 10,000 years ago, high up in the mountains.

0:32:000:32:05

These glaciers are constantly moving,

0:32:050:32:08

some at a very, very slow rate, and when they meet the sea,

0:32:080:32:11

the sea water - which is much warmer - causes them to calve,

0:32:110:32:15

for ice to fall in, and it forms icebergs that float out to sea.

0:32:150:32:20

If these longer summer conditions - lack of sea ice - persist,

0:32:200:32:23

these glacier areas are going to become

0:32:230:32:26

increasingly more important for polar bears.

0:32:260:32:29

This gives them a set of circumstances that

0:32:300:32:33

might give them a chance to hunt seals.

0:32:330:32:35

There you go. Obviously, a seal couldn't get up on to something

0:32:350:32:39

like that, but this bit that's fallen off - a perfect place.

0:32:390:32:42

A seal could easily get out there,

0:32:420:32:44

lie there, thinking it's safe and secure,

0:32:440:32:47

and, unknown to that seal, it might be being watched by a polar bear.

0:32:470:32:51

ICE BANGS THE BOAT

0:32:510:32:53

And the band played on!

0:32:540:32:56

GORDON LAUGHS

0:32:560:32:57

What's the name of that big ship that had a problem with one of these things?

0:32:570:33:02

There's no sign of Lyra and Miki.

0:33:050:33:07

We head back to the Havsel, away from the shelter of the glacier.

0:33:090:33:13

'But, as the water gets rougher, we spot a bear.'

0:33:170:33:21

Come on, Lyra, is that you?

0:33:210:33:23

'I'm desperate for it to be Lyra.'

0:33:240:33:26

Hang on, did I see a collar?

0:33:260:33:29

I thought I just caught a glimpse of a collar

0:33:290:33:32

but it's hard to tell, the boat's moving about so much.

0:33:320:33:34

There's definitely a cub there.

0:33:340:33:36

Come on, girl!

0:33:380:33:41

Is that you?

0:33:410:33:42

-That's not her, is it?

-It's not her. I don't believe it.

0:33:440:33:47

You can even see in her face it's not, it's not Lyra.

0:33:470:33:50

Ah, man!

0:33:500:33:52

I don't believe it.

0:33:520:33:54

Oh, no!

0:33:560:33:57

I just...

0:33:570:33:59

I thought when we caught a glimpse of these bears,

0:33:590:34:02

I just so wanted it to be her.

0:34:020:34:05

We don't know where she is. We really don't.

0:34:050:34:08

There's two cubs, yeah. There's one behind it.

0:34:080:34:10

Oh, look at them! They are good-looking cubs.

0:34:100:34:14

She's done a spectacular job in getting these cubs to this size.

0:34:140:34:17

Two cubs in this area is no mean feat.

0:34:170:34:21

The female is big for this time of year

0:34:210:34:24

and the cubs are just looking wonderful.

0:34:240:34:26

'These two cubs are a full year older than Miki.'

0:34:280:34:31

I've got a feeling both the cubs are males.

0:34:310:34:34

Yeah, they've got that look about them, don't they?

0:34:340:34:36

Yeah, and they're both so inquisitive.

0:34:360:34:38

There may be enough food that they're scavenging off the beaches -

0:34:380:34:42

things, animals that have died and washed up on the shore.

0:34:420:34:45

It just seems really strange that we've got this healthy mother

0:34:450:34:49

and two healthy cubs marooned here on this island.

0:34:490:34:53

It's just... I don't understand it.

0:34:530:34:55

This does give me hope for Lyra and Miki,

0:34:560:34:59

because if a mother with two cubs can survive down here,

0:34:590:35:02

a mother with one hopefully can as well.

0:35:020:35:04

It's just a question of where is she?

0:35:050:35:07

I think we skirt the islands and keep looking.

0:35:070:35:10

As we move around the shore searching for Lyra,

0:35:130:35:16

we discover why the other bears look so healthy.

0:35:160:35:20

A whale carcass.

0:35:220:35:23

Oh, it smells very, very ripe.

0:35:250:35:27

This is a smell that will carry on the wind,

0:35:290:35:32

and polar bears in this area will know will know that it's here.

0:35:320:35:36

It could well be that this whale carcass

0:35:360:35:38

has actually been here for most of the year.

0:35:380:35:40

For a hungry polar bear in desperate times, this is a magnificent find.

0:35:400:35:44

There's lots of blubber there.

0:35:440:35:46

Most of it's gone, but there is still something to eat.

0:35:460:35:50

Some polar bears' favourite song is the old wartime classic,

0:35:500:35:54

"Whale Meat Again."

0:35:540:35:56

In other parts of the Arctic, traditional whale-hunting

0:36:030:36:06

provides a rich source of food for polar bears.

0:36:060:36:09

The hunters drag the whales up onto the ice,

0:36:230:36:26

take the blubber and leave the rest.

0:36:260:36:29

A lifeline for hungry bears at this time of year.

0:36:330:36:37

It may well be that with these longer periods of no sea ice,

0:36:420:36:46

it's those bears that are living close to indigenous hunters

0:36:460:36:49

who hunt whales are actually doing better.

0:36:490:36:52

It's an intriguing thought and maybe a glimmer of hope.

0:36:540:36:58

Climate change may be bad for polar bears,

0:36:580:37:00

but that doesn't mean people have to be.

0:37:000:37:03

I just hope Lyra can smell this carcass

0:37:060:37:09

and get herself and Miki here.

0:37:090:37:11

It might be their only hope for survival.

0:37:120:37:15

We try a nearby island that polar bears have been lured to for decades.

0:37:200:37:25

On the shore stands a deserted cabin.

0:37:260:37:28

This cabin was actually built by people that had

0:37:300:37:33

an interest in polar bears.

0:37:330:37:35

It was built by trappers.

0:37:350:37:36

This area was selected because there was a high density at that time.

0:37:360:37:40

Hundreds, thousands of polar bears were shot from cabins like this,

0:37:400:37:45

and there's little traces of it.

0:37:450:37:47

You can see someone's actually scratched a polar bear head in here.

0:37:470:37:52

Another one here, and initials PJ.

0:37:520:37:56

That's Per Jonsson, who over-wintered here '68 into '69.

0:37:560:38:01

One thing that trappers would do -

0:38:010:38:03

they'd stick just a simple big pole up by the cabin.

0:38:030:38:07

The trappers would take advantage of a polar bear's curiosity

0:38:070:38:10

and they'd erect these poles.

0:38:100:38:12

This is something that could be seen for miles and miles.

0:38:120:38:16

A polar bear in this fairly featureless landscape would see this

0:38:160:38:20

and just naturally be drawn to it.

0:38:200:38:23

You can see here a polar bear has been chewing,

0:38:230:38:26

and some huge, enormous polar bear has stretched all the way up there.

0:38:260:38:30

This post is in a direct line of sight, across the sound,

0:38:300:38:34

to where Lyra had her den.

0:38:340:38:36

This island undoubtedly is a place that she's come to

0:38:360:38:39

many, many times in the past.

0:38:390:38:41

The posts lured the bears to the island.

0:38:420:38:45

But, of course, it was a trap.

0:38:450:38:47

So the trap would have been mounted on a post,

0:38:490:38:51

a rifle mounted on top, with the barrel going down through here.

0:38:510:38:55

You need a fairly high-powered rifle to kill a polar bear outright.

0:38:550:38:59

Inside the box, there would have been lump of seal meat or blubber,

0:38:590:39:03

tied to this string.

0:39:030:39:04

Driven by hunger, the polar bear would have come forward,

0:39:040:39:09

stuck its head in, grabbed the meat with its mouth,

0:39:090:39:13

pulled the string, pulled the trigger

0:39:130:39:15

and been shot through the back of the head.

0:39:150:39:18

This is a place where thousands of polar bears

0:39:190:39:22

have come for generations,

0:39:220:39:24

and if Lyra and Miki were alive when polar bear hunting continued here,

0:39:240:39:30

they would almost certainly visited this island,

0:39:300:39:33

almost certainly come to something like this for food,

0:39:330:39:37

and almost certainly been killed.

0:39:370:39:39

Using this method,

0:39:390:39:41

polar bears in this region were almost driven to extinction.

0:39:410:39:45

In the heyday, trappers killed around

0:39:480:39:51

400 polar bears on Svalbard every year.

0:39:510:39:54

The dead bears were loaded onto boats and shipped to the mainland.

0:39:560:40:00

They were sold for their fur.

0:40:020:40:04

Cubs were kept alive and sent to zoos.

0:40:090:40:13

There are probably more polar bear bones littering these beaches

0:40:150:40:19

than anywhere else in the world.

0:40:190:40:21

By the early 1970s, polar bear numbers here

0:40:220:40:25

were so low that their future was uncertain.

0:40:250:40:28

In 1973, the Norwegian government stepped in

0:40:300:40:34

and banned all hunting of polar bears.

0:40:340:40:36

It's taken 30 years, but today, the bears here have recovered.

0:40:380:40:43

The Svalbard population is stable, at least for now.

0:40:430:40:47

But, incredibly, polar bear hunting

0:40:470:40:50

still continues in the USA, Canada and Greenland.

0:40:500:40:55

Most hunting is by native peoples,

0:40:580:41:01

but I wonder if any hunting is sustainable.

0:41:010:41:04

Polar bears face so many challenges,

0:41:080:41:11

almost all of them brought about by us.

0:41:110:41:15

Every day, the conditions change.

0:41:230:41:27

The next morning, the wind is coming from a different direction.

0:41:270:41:30

It'll make landing at Lyra's beach easier.

0:41:300:41:33

I'm really hoping Lyra and Miki will have returned.

0:41:350:41:38

And we're in luck.

0:41:400:41:42

Our family is back,

0:41:440:41:45

but Lyra's behaviour is different.

0:41:450:41:48

-That's interesting - she's coming towards us.

-Yeah.

0:41:500:41:53

Here she goes.

0:42:130:42:14

OK, Lyra is...

0:42:220:42:24

..getting a little bit closer.

0:42:260:42:28

This is when I start getting nervous. Just a bit.

0:42:280:42:31

OK, Lyra, I can see that you're smelling the air,

0:42:340:42:37

and I'm just a little bit worried that it's the smell

0:42:370:42:40

that's coming from me that's holding your attention.

0:42:400:42:44

This is not a bear that is at all scared.

0:42:450:42:47

This is a bear that's figuring out what's going on,

0:42:480:42:53

whether there is an opportunity to feed here.

0:42:530:42:56

We are completely downwind,

0:42:560:42:58

so Miki's getting quite a good scent of us here.

0:42:580:43:01

Lyra's always actually moved away from us

0:43:010:43:03

and kept her personal distance, and right at the moment,

0:43:030:43:06

it's the first time in the last year of being with her

0:43:060:43:09

that she's actually turned around and come towards us, and her...

0:43:090:43:13

It's her body movement and her stance that worries me a little bit.

0:43:130:43:17

When she's tense, she basically puts her front paws forward

0:43:170:43:21

and builds up a stance that's like a spring ready to take off, you know.

0:43:210:43:26

When they come at you, their initial speed is incredibly fast.

0:43:260:43:30

This is the first time I've felt threatened by Lyra.

0:43:310:43:35

If she comes, you drop everything.

0:43:350:43:36

You drop the monitor, you drop the camera.

0:43:360:43:39

-WOMAN:

-Jason, is he safe there?

0:43:440:43:48

Let me just grab one more shot of Lyra.

0:43:490:43:52

-I don't like it.

-OK, shall we move back, then?

0:43:520:43:56

If you don't like it, I'd rather move back now.

0:43:560:43:58

-Please. Gordon?

-OK.

0:44:000:44:02

Right, Lyra, that's close enough for now.

0:44:060:44:09

Despite the fact that she hasn't been aggressive towards us at all,

0:44:120:44:16

there may well come a point where she views me differently,

0:44:160:44:20

that she sees me and thinks, possibly,

0:44:200:44:22

"This is something that I can eat. Maybe this is my next meal."

0:44:220:44:25

We may be safe, but I'm so worried about Lyra and Miki.

0:44:290:44:33

It's really hard to see Lyra suffering.

0:44:470:44:49

I'd love to be able to feed her,

0:44:500:44:53

but it's illegal to feed any wildlife on Svalbard.

0:44:530:44:56

I don't want Lyra to associate humans with food.

0:44:590:45:03

It could be dangerous for people and for her.

0:45:030:45:07

With less ice, it means harder times for polar bears,

0:45:150:45:18

and they will have to find new, different sources of food,

0:45:180:45:22

and that may very well mean

0:45:220:45:23

it brings them closer to people living and working in the Arctic.

0:45:230:45:27

So our relationship with these huge predators

0:45:270:45:30

may well become more troubled.

0:45:300:45:32

With the conditions so bad this year,

0:45:330:45:36

I want to know whether polar bears

0:45:360:45:38

have been driven closer to humans in search of food.

0:45:380:45:41

There are a few places on Svalbard where people live year round.

0:45:430:45:47

One of them is the Polish research station at Hornsund.

0:45:470:45:50

They've had bears visit them this year, but no fatal run-ins,

0:45:520:45:56

thanks to a tried and tested polar bear warning system.

0:45:560:46:00

-Hello, girl.

-Lola.

-Lola - that's my daughter's name.

0:46:010:46:05

'Liliana Keslinka-Nawrot has worked at the base for almost a year.'

0:46:050:46:10

She's the bravest one.

0:46:100:46:12

So if a polar bear walks in, the dogs start barking,

0:46:120:46:15

-and do they scare it off most times?

-Yes.

-Really?

-Yeah.

0:46:150:46:18

Dogs like Lola bark as soon as they get a whiff of a bear.

0:46:200:46:24

This gives the researchers time to come out with a flare gun

0:46:250:46:29

and scare it off.

0:46:290:46:30

For Lola here, how close has she been to a polar bear?

0:46:320:46:35

-Well, she was attacked three years ago.

-Was she?

-Yes.

0:46:350:46:38

She had some stitches on her... Here, over here! ..on the leg.

0:46:380:46:43

SHE SPEAKS IN POLISH

0:46:430:46:44

After she was attacked by the polar bear,

0:46:440:46:47

did her attitude change towards them, was she more scared?

0:46:470:46:50

-No, she just got more brave.

-She just got on with her job?

-Yes.

0:46:500:46:54

From the polar bears that you've seen come through here,

0:46:540:46:57

have you noticed that some are more curious,

0:46:570:47:00

that they do have different personalities?

0:47:000:47:02

Yes. Yeah, some are scared once and they go away,

0:47:020:47:08

but some are really just so starving, so hungry.

0:47:080:47:13

I do think it's great the way that the dogs' senses are used

0:47:130:47:16

to keep people safe from polar bears.

0:47:160:47:18

They've got excellent hearing, fantastic sense of smell,

0:47:180:47:21

and there's absolutely no technology in the world

0:47:210:47:24

that can detect polar bears as good as a dog can.

0:47:240:47:27

It's a small sign of hope.

0:47:290:47:31

There are ways to keep both people and polar bears safe.

0:47:310:47:35

I want to get back to Lyra and Miki once more, but time is running out.

0:47:430:47:48

Now it's all down to the weather.

0:47:490:47:51

As autumn progresses, storms become more frequent.

0:47:530:47:57

Soon, it will be too treacherous for us to stay.

0:47:570:48:02

Our time with the bears is coming to an end.

0:48:020:48:06

-We've got a strong gale...

-OK.

0:48:060:48:09

-..and rain, so what we've got may be a bit worse.

-OK.

0:48:090:48:13

I'd hoped to spend more time with Lyra,

0:48:140:48:17

but, before we can get back to the shore,

0:48:170:48:19

a storm rolls in and we have to strap everything down.

0:48:190:48:23

It seems like it's bad everywhere in this area.

0:48:380:48:41

We just got the forecast through.

0:48:410:48:43

"Cyclonic gale 8 to storm 10, occasionally violent storm,

0:48:430:48:46

"11 for a time, becoming mainly northwesterly 6 to scale 8 later.

0:48:460:48:50

"Very rough or high. Becoming very high for a time.

0:48:500:48:54

"Rain or showers.

0:48:540:48:56

"Poor," it says. Poor. Very poor.

0:48:560:48:59

We're stuck onboard the Havsel and it's not looking good.

0:49:080:49:12

We lose two full days to the bad weather.

0:49:160:49:19

I can't stand it any longer.

0:49:320:49:34

We decide to try and get ashore...

0:49:340:49:36

..despite the terrible conditions.

0:49:370:49:39

We've been sitting out, waiting for the weather to clear up,

0:49:420:49:45

and it hasn't cleared up,

0:49:450:49:46

but I'm desperate to get ashore and look for Lyra,

0:49:460:49:48

and the only way to do that is to get into the Zodiac and go ashore,

0:49:480:49:52

but it's incredibly dangerous conditions.

0:49:520:49:55

But, you know, what can I do?

0:49:560:49:58

It's either just sit here and wait,

0:49:580:50:00

without a single hope of seeing Lyra,

0:50:000:50:03

or at least try the only option that we've got,

0:50:030:50:05

and I'm prepared to do that.

0:50:050:50:07

The winds are 50 knots, the waves are short and steep.

0:50:210:50:25

If we get too much air under the Zodiac, we'll flip.

0:50:250:50:29

Jason has to keep the boat pointed into the wind,

0:50:340:50:37

and I have to keep my weight forward.

0:50:370:50:40

We can't go too slowly or we'll be swamped by the waves from behind.

0:50:440:50:48

Oh, my God! Oh, my God!

0:51:020:51:05

Come back, come back, come back, come back, come back, come back!

0:51:050:51:09

'I'm OK but badly winded.'

0:51:140:51:16

'It's just too dangerous to continue.'

0:51:170:51:20

It's so hard to work here,

0:51:340:51:37

and it's for this reason that we know so little about polar bears.

0:51:370:51:41

At every turn, we're scuppered by the terrain and the weather.

0:51:440:51:49

It's getting too risky to stay in the Arctic much longer.

0:51:490:51:52

-You all right?

-Yeah.

0:52:020:52:04

Bloody impossible. There's just too much wind, too many waves.

0:52:040:52:07

What happens is, the wave hits the front of boat,

0:52:070:52:10

the boat lifts up and it becomes like a huge sail.

0:52:100:52:13

We were very close to just tipping right over.

0:52:130:52:15

And despite the fact we've got this big boat here,

0:52:150:52:18

if we go in the water in these conditions...

0:52:180:52:20

I don't want to think about it.

0:52:220:52:24

Overnight, the wind begins to drop.

0:52:310:52:33

And, by daybreak, the clouds have started to lift.

0:52:370:52:40

It's my last chance to get ashore.

0:52:430:52:45

Lyra's here on the same stretch of beach.

0:53:080:53:11

But I can't see Miki.

0:53:170:53:19

Gosh, Lyra, you have done an incredible job!

0:53:320:53:36

There's been an unbelievable transformation in this cub

0:53:380:53:41

since I first met him, way back at the start of the year.

0:53:410:53:45

He was a tiny ball of fur back then.

0:53:450:53:49

If Miki does make it to adulthood,

0:53:520:53:55

it will be entirely down to the hard work of Lyra.

0:53:550:53:59

Lyra is 17 years old - she's getting on as a mother.

0:54:070:54:11

I doubt she will have another litter of cubs.

0:54:120:54:15

Miki could be her last.

0:54:170:54:19

It would be so good to think that she could get him through.

0:54:240:54:27

But my time with Lyra and Miki is over.

0:54:350:54:39

We've been through so much together.

0:54:400:54:43

I can honestly say it's been a privilege.

0:54:450:54:49

They have endured all that this, the toughest of years,

0:54:520:54:56

has thrown at them.

0:54:560:54:58

Their story isn't over

0:55:070:55:11

but, for me, it's time to go.

0:55:110:55:14

Soon, there will be only a few hours of light each day.

0:55:220:55:26

Then storms and perpetual darkness will engulf the Arctic.

0:55:280:55:33

I can't stay until the ice returns.

0:55:370:55:40

It's just too dangerous.

0:55:400:55:42

I'm forced to leave Lyra and Miki.

0:55:460:55:49

I'll never see them again.

0:55:530:55:56

My time with Lyra and Miki has shown me

0:56:100:56:13

how vulnerable polar bears really are.

0:56:130:56:16

They belong here and only here.

0:56:180:56:21

They are part of this extraordinary Arctic world,

0:56:210:56:26

but their world is changing,

0:56:260:56:28

and their future is unsure.

0:56:280:56:31

Having followed Lyra and her family,

0:56:330:56:35

they've given me this rare insight, not just into their lives,

0:56:350:56:39

but they've helped me better understand polar bears as a whole.

0:56:390:56:43

For thousands of years, polar bears have been shaped,

0:56:430:56:46

been fine-tuned by this landscape,

0:56:460:56:48

the climate, the ice, the seals that they hunt,

0:56:480:56:51

to the extent that polar bears aren't just a symbol of the Arctic,

0:56:510:56:55

they are the embodiment of ALL life here in the Arctic.

0:56:550:56:58

It's easy to understand how polar bears have become

0:56:580:57:02

this powerful emblem and it is almost unimaginable

0:57:020:57:06

that there could be a future without them.

0:57:060:57:08

But Lyra and Miki's story has one final twist.

0:57:210:57:25

Six weeks after I returned home, I heard news from Svalbard.

0:57:290:57:33

Lyra's broken collar had sent one last update.

0:57:360:57:41

She had travelled 100 miles north,

0:57:430:57:46

to a place where a whale carcass had been seen from the air -

0:57:460:57:51

enough food to see her through the winter.

0:57:510:57:54

I'll never know for sure if Miki was with her.

0:58:010:58:04

But I've seen him defy the odds again and again.

0:58:120:58:18

I think he made it, too.

0:58:180:58:20

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