Tsunamis 10 Things You Didn't Know About...


Tsunamis

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Two thirds of Planet Earth is covered by ocean.

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We need this water to sustain life.

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But water can also be one of the most destructive forces on this planet.

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Tsunamis, or giant ocean waves, have wreaked havoc throughout history.

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The forces that create such massive waves are incredible.

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What's more, as a geologist,

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I find the stories about tsunamis truly astounding.

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So, if you don't know which great civilisation

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may have been devastated by a tsunami...

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how a father and son managed to surf the highest wave ever recorded and survive...

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..or why millions of Americans could be at risk from a mega-tsunami,

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then stay around as I reveal

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10 things you didn't know about tsunamis.

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I'm here on La Palma, one of the Canary Islands.

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Most people come to the Canaries to get away from it all and relax,

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but not me.

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I've come here because this little island might one day generate a massive tsunami...

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A mega-tsunami.

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We'll explore that story later,

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but first I've got nine other tsunami stories

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to cover from around the world.

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We'll begin with one tsunami that's burnt into all our memories,

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it's certainly etched into my mind,

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and that's the Boxing Day tsunami of 2004

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which caused destruction around the Indian Ocean.

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On the morning of December 26th, 2004,

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a huge underwater earthquake ripped apart the seafloor

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northwest of Sumatra, Indonesia.

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When it subsided, no-one had any idea

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that the tremors had generated something even more deadly -

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a tsunami.

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A chain of waves fanned out across the Indian Ocean,

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travelling at the speed of a jet plane,

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hitting coastlines all around the Indian Ocean.

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The images of waves and death were unforgettable.

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I watched these images,

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amazed at how easily people's lives and homes were swept away.

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The tsunami had hit the nearest shores with such force

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it rose to over 60 feet, and surged inland for up to three miles.

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It destroyed everything in its path.

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Leaving a devastated Sumatra behind,

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the tsunami continued towards Thailand.

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SHOUTING

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The waves arrived faster than people could run,

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hurling them against buildings and trees

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and then snatching them out to sea.

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Meanwhile, the westbound waves roared across the Indian Ocean,

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slamming into Sri Lanka and even as far as the East African coastline.

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What's incredible is that the tsunami didn't stop there.

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It was so powerful that it travelled around the whole world for 40 hours.

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By the end, the Boxing Day tsunami had claimed more than 225,000 lives,

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in 11 different countries,

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from as far afield as Indonesia and South Africa.

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So, just what makes tsunami waves so different

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and so much more destructive than ordinary storm waves?

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Well, an ocean wave is caused by the effect of the wind on the surface of the sea.

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But a tsunami is triggered when a huge volume of water,

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not just on the surface but right down to the ocean floor, is shifted in one sudden violent motion.

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This rapid movement can happen after a volcanic eruption or a landslide,

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or an underwater earthquake.

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When an earthquake, for example, cracks the ocean floor,

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one side of the fault is thrust up.

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This then pushes up the whole body of water above the fracture as well,

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creating a wave on the surface of the sea that becomes a tsunami.

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In mid-ocean, the ripples of a tsunami have a small wave height

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and a very long wavelength.

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That's the distance from the front of the wave to the back of the wave

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and this can be hundred of miles long.

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But as the tsunami reaches land,

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it goes through a frightening transformation.

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From the shore, the first sign that something is wrong may be the water

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along the beach being sucked back toward the source of the tsunami.

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This is called "drawback".

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Then, as the tsunami itself nears land,

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the shallow water acts like a brake,

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slowing the front of the wave dramatically,

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but the back of the wave, hundreds of miles behind, is still travelling fast.

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It now catches up,

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causing the front of the wave to rear up into a wall of water.

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But there is worse to come. Instead of breaking onshore,

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the whole length of the wave sweeps onto land,

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engulfing everything in its path.

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And that's what happened on Boxing Day 2004.

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A few weeks later, I visited Thailand,

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one of the worst hit areas, and I was shocked by what I found there.

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I guess it was the first time I realised the devastation

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that can be caused by a wall of water.

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For a geologist like me, it was obvious that some truly

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catastrophic geological event had happened to create a tsunami.

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And indeed it was caused by a huge earthquake.

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But this was no ordinary earthquake.

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And to understand just how different this earthquake was,

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a group of scientists set off across the Indian Ocean to study it.

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They wanted to find actual evidence of the earthquake on the sea floor

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to work out how it had caused such a huge tsunami.

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What they were to discover on this expedition would shock them.

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But first, they would have to actually find the fracture in the Earth's crust.

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Below the ship lies a vast undersea chain of mountains,

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as high as the Alps.

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They've been pushed up over millions of years

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by the movement between two giant tectonic plates.

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Tectonic plates are slabs of the Earth's crust colliding together,

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and they're often the cause of deep ocean earthquakes,

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where one plate is pushed underneath the other.

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Somewhere below this spot, the sea bed

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ruptured for many hundreds of miles on Boxing Day 2004.

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This is where the tsunami was born.

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Using remote equipment,

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scientists are now able to scan the ocean bed in great detail.

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Oh, we came down.

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BEEPING We are at the bottom.

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It didn't take long before they quickly identified

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a dramatic geological feature.

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The line they had found

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looked like it could be a fracture caused by an earthquake.

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As they edged forward,

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the sonar image revealed something very large, dead ahead.

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-Look at the sonar.

-Yeah.

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We got a big target in front of us now, about eight metres out.

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Oh, my God.

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It was a sheer vertical cliff thrust out of the sea bed.

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A wall large enough to have displaced a huge amount of water

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and the physical evidence of a massive earthquake.

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But to be sure this wasn't an ancient fault,

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they needed to inspect the top.

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If it showed a sharp, saw-toothed edge,

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it would prove this was a recent fault.

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OK, here we go, here we go up.

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And at the top, there it was - a rough, saw-toothed edge,

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proof that this cliff had been formed recently.

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The scientists had found the Boxing Day earthquake fault.

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But no-one was expecting what they discovered next.

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As they climbed higher, something else loomed out of the darkness -

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a second cliff beyond the first, and this one was enormous.

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These two sheer cliff faces were the evidence that proved

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to the scientists that this had been no ordinary earthquake.

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This was what they call a mega-thrust earthquake.

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Unlike ordinary earthquakes, mega-thrust earthquakes

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rupture over many hundred of miles and are always over a magnitude 9.

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They're the largest earthquakes in the world.

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And what most people don't realise,

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is that when this type of earthquake happens,

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it will create a far bigger tsunami.

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Having seen this dramatic evidence of uplift on the sea floor,

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the scientists were now able to outline the exact chain of events

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that devastated so many lives.

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Deep under the Indian Ocean, two tectonic plates

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had been pushing against each other for hundreds of years.

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The edges of these plates were locked together,

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building enormous stresses and bending the upper plate

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like a giant spring.

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And on Boxing Day 2004,

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this pressure reached breaking point.

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It happened with such enormous power that it was a mega-thrust event.

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The fault started to rupture, shooting upwards by as much as 40ft.

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At twice the speed of a bullet,

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the plates unzipped over a distance of more than 750 miles.

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It lifted the sea bed and the entire ocean above.

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Billions of tons of seawater,

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forced upward by the movement of the sea bed

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now flowed away from the fault.

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On the surface, the displaced water fanned out

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as a series of giant ripples.

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The tsunami began to travel at up to 500 mph.

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And so what triggered the Boxing Day tsunami was no ordinary earthquake -

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it was a rare mega-thrust earthquake

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that had set in motion this wave of destruction.

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The violence of the Indian Ocean tsunami showed us just how destructive these waves are.

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But this tsunami did one further unexpected thing that had nothing to do with destruction -

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it created a moment of revelation.

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In one brief instant, the remains of an ancient city

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lost just off the coast of India were revealed.

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And that's the subject of my next story -

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the legend of Mahabalipuram, the lost temples and the tsunami.

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Mahabalipuram is a beautiful complex of temples

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that sits near an ancient port city on the east coast of India.

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Built around the seventh century,

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only a precious few of the original temples have stood the test of time.

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One of the remaining temples is known as the Shore Temple,

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as it sits dangerously close to the coastline.

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Local fishermen tell an interesting story about this temple.

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The legend says that the Shore Temple is in fact

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the seventh temple of a series, called The Seven Pagodas.

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These temples are said to have once lined the shore,

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and according to the myth,

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they were so beautiful that the Gods grew jealous, and they sent a flood

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that submerged six of the temples below the waves.

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This left only one temple still standing on the coast - the Shore Temple that we can see today.

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But this wasn't to be the last we would hear of the six lost pagodas.

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On the morning of Boxing Day 2004, the tsunami reached

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the East Indian coastline and reared up on Mahabalipuram.

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Standing near the beach was a group of fishermen.

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They looked on as the sea retreated for up to half a kilometre,

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drawing back in the characteristic way just before a tsunami strikes.

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In the few short minutes that it took for the sea to retreat from the shore,

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tourists and fishermen stared spellbound

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by what the receding waters had revealed.

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They swore they had seen the six lost temples of Mahabalipuram.

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The onlookers claim that for several minutes,

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the lost temples had been revealed by the receding ocean.

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And then they were gone, as the wave swept up the shoreline

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engulfing everything these people had seen.

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Leaving everyone wondering, I guess, if they'd dreamt it all.

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So no-one is able to say for sure

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if the tsunami had revealed the lost temples of the myth.

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But I'd like to believe it's true,

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that for a few magical moments, those people on the beach

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saw the remaining temples of The Seven Pagodas.

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Whatever they saw, it's now under the water,

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and presumably out of sight for ever.

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Our next tsunami takes us way back in time,

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back to the age of the dinosaurs.

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And it wasn't triggered by an earthquake or any other natural force on THIS planet,

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the trigger for my next tsunami...

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came from outer space.

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Long, long ago, in fact 65 million years ago,

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one of the most catastrophic events this planet has ever seen happened.

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An enormous meteor struck the earth -

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a meteor the size of San Francisco.

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This is the meteor that many believe wiped out the dinosaurs

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by creating massive climactic change.

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But my story isn't about whether or not the meteor wiped out

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the dinosaurs or even whether it caused any change in the climate.

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The surprising detail that most people don't realise about this meteor strike

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is that it must have created a gigantic tsunami.

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And that's because when it hit the Earth, it struck not on land but on the water.

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It must have been the mother of all tsunamis.

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In 1991, scientists discovered the meteor's ancient impact site

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near the Gulf of Mexico.

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It had struck just off the coast of Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula.

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The crater dug into the ocean floor,

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was 112 miles across

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and 20 times as deep as the Grand Canyon.

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The meteor must have been six miles wide.

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So what kind of tsunami did this impact cause?

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Well, it would've created something very different from an ordinary tsunami.

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Travelling at over 700 miles a minute, the meteor impact

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would've created an incredible fireball, equivalent to billions of Hiroshima bombs exploding.

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The sheer force of the impact will have vaporised the water,

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releasing steam that will have blown a hole in the ocean.

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The meteor carved out this huge cavity in the sea floor.

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And then the sea that rushed in to fill the crater rose up,

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creating a colossal wall of water.

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When this wall of water then collapsed,

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it sent out a very unusual kind of tsunami wave,

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as high as the seafloor was deep.

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What's different is that it will have created a rather unique chain of tsunamis.

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And that's because the process will have continued oscillating inside the cavity,

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like the water sloshing around in a bath,

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creating not one but many gigantic tsunami waves.

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This chain of waves will then have radiated out, hitting coastlines thousands of miles away

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and travelling up to 100 miles inland,

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destroying everything in its way.

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We'll never know how many dinosaurs were killed by the tsunami itself

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rather than the climate change that would have followed.

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But one thing's for sure - this wasn't just one of the biggest meteor impacts,

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this was most likely one of the largest tsunamis ever.

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It must have created the most unbelievable spectacle.

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And who witnessed it? The dinosaurs.

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Our next story takes us to the myth of Atlantis,

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the legendary tale which Plato wrote

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about a magnificent civilisation which sank below the sea.

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Some scientists believe that they've found the island which might've been the inspiration for Plato's story.

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And, of course, at the heart of the tale is a gigantic tsunami.

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Over 2,000 years ago,

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the Greek philosopher Plato wrote a story about a super civilisation

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which lived on the mythical island of Atlantis.

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In Plato's story, the Atlantians ruled the Mediterranean.

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But, "In a single day and night of misfortune",

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Atlantis and all its inhabitants were swallowed by the sea.

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But could there be a true catastrophic event from history

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that prompted Plato to invent the story of Atlantis?

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Well, perhaps.

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Some scientists now believe that Plato may have been inspired

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by what happened to the Minoans on the island of Crete.

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The Minoans were the first great European civilisation.

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They flourished 5,000 years ago, long before Plato.

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They built palaces of the finest architecture

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and were ruled by powerful kings.

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Minoan artists recorded their lives in stunning frescoes.

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What's more, their fleet ruled the Mediterranean.

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But about 3,500 years ago, it all came to an abrupt end.

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Over a few generations,

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this great civilisation was wiped from the pages of history.

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For archaeologists, it had always been a complete mystery.

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What had happened to the Minoans? No-one could understand why they had disappeared so abruptly.

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But then they found an unexpected clue on the hill sides of Crete.

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High above sea level, they discovered sea shells.

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Wow, look at that!

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They found shells in places they should never have been.

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They guessed that a tsunami could have put them there.

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So they set about looking for the geological event

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that could have caused such a tsunami.

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They dated the organic matter in the surrounding sediment and came up with a very interesting date -

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around 1630 BC.

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That's 3,500 years ago.

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At this moment, the penny dropped.

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Because this date is about the time of one of the most cataclysmic

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geological events of the ancient world.

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An event we know created a huge tsunami -

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the eruption of the volcano in Santorini.

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Over the course of a few days, this monstrous volcano

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belched ash, gas and rock up to 25 miles into the atmosphere.

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Eventually the huge magma chamber collapsed, and the sea rushed in.

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The result was an even more cataclysmic explosion,

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now considered one of the most explosive volcanic eruptions in history.

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All the debris eventually plunged into the sea.

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As it hit the water, the sea will have risen up,

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creating a massive wall of water.

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This colossal wave must have then raced across the sea,

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consuming anything in its way.

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In only 20 minutes, it will have reached the island of Crete,

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lying directly south of the volcano.

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The Minoan people will have heard the explosions,

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but will have no idea what was heading towards them.

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There would have been no chance of escape.

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When it hit the shore, it reared up 60ft in the air

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and engulfed everything in its path.

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It would have instantly drowned tens of thousands of people,

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swallowing them up in one enormous wave

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then dragging them back out to sea.

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It must have devastated the island.

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And yet it won't have wiped the Minoans out all together.

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There would have been survivors.

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Many of them will have run to high ground.

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But the wave will have affected them in a more sinister way -

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it will have covered the fields in salt water

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and the crops will have failed.

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The Minoans could not have fished

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as the volcano may well have polluted the sea.

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Many would have starved and fought with each other to survive.

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We know that within a short time of this event,

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the Minoans had disappeared completely.

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The end of Europe's first great civilisation

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devastated by one natural disaster.

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So, if the dramatic ending of the Minoans was indeed linked to the massive eruption

0:26:430:26:47

at Santorini and the huge tsunami that followed,

0:26:470:26:51

then maybe it was the story that inspired Plato to write the tale of Atlantis.

0:26:510:26:56

I would say this is as good an explanation, of how an island civilisation

0:26:560:27:00

can be lost to the sea, as we will ever get.

0:27:000:27:03

So far we've covered stories from around the world,

0:27:090:27:12

but actually 80% of tsunamis happen just in the Pacific.

0:27:120:27:16

So if you happen to be an island in this vast ocean with these forces

0:27:160:27:20

of destruction let loose all around you, you're in deep trouble.

0:27:200:27:24

That's why the tsunami capitals of the world are Hawaii and Japan.

0:27:240:27:30

Most of us think of tsunamis as being rare random events

0:27:360:27:40

that can happen anywhere, in any ocean.

0:27:400:27:42

But surprisingly, some places are constantly bombarded by them.

0:27:420:27:47

Of all the oceans of the world,

0:27:490:27:51

the Pacific has the most frequent tsunamis.

0:27:510:27:54

In fact, four out of every five tsunami happen in the Pacific Ocean.

0:27:540:27:58

So just why is the Pacific so prone to tsunamis?

0:28:060:28:09

Well, unlike all the other oceans of the world, the basin of the Pacific Ocean is encircled

0:28:110:28:16

by a zone of frequent earthquakes and volcanic eruptions.

0:28:160:28:20

These are the result of the shifting and colliding of the Earth's plates in this particular area.

0:28:200:28:26

They call it the Pacific Ring of Fire.

0:28:260:28:29

When there's an earthquake or a volcanic eruption along this rim,

0:28:290:28:33

it can trigger a tsunami that will then rip across the entire ocean.

0:28:330:28:38

And if you're an island in the middle of the Pacific,

0:28:460:28:49

you'll be bombarded by all of these waves from every direction.

0:28:490:28:53

And that's what happens to one set of islands

0:28:540:28:57

right in the middle of the danger zone.

0:28:570:29:00

Hawaii may be a paradise on Earth for surfers and sun worshippers,

0:29:000:29:05

but they have been struck by an unbelievable 137 tsunamis

0:29:050:29:10

in the past 200 years, from all directions.

0:29:100:29:13

These are rare images of a tsunami that hit Hawaii in 1946.

0:29:150:29:21

It was caused by an earthquake in Alaska, 2,500 miles away.

0:29:210:29:27

Within five hours,

0:29:270:29:28

it had sped across the Pacific Ocean and hit Hawaii,

0:29:280:29:31

killing 159 people.

0:29:310:29:34

Within 12 years, Hawaii was struck three more times.

0:29:360:29:40

In 1960, the largest earthquake ever recorded

0:29:460:29:50

occurred off the coast of Chile.

0:29:500:29:53

It generated a tsunami that headed straight across the Pacific towards Hawaii.

0:29:540:29:59

Within 15 hours of the earthquake,

0:30:020:30:04

this tsunami crashed into the Hawaiian coastline,

0:30:040:30:08

killing 61 people.

0:30:080:30:11

These events happen so frequently, it's no wonder that Hawaii is called

0:30:120:30:17

one of the tsunami capitals of the world.

0:30:170:30:20

But Hawaii has one advantage.

0:30:230:30:25

Because of its location, right in the middle of the Pacific,

0:30:250:30:29

it takes tsunamis several hours to reach it.

0:30:290:30:32

Which means that Hawaii has usually got enough time to issue a warning and clear the coastal areas.

0:30:320:30:38

But that's not the case for Japan which, for one key reason,

0:30:380:30:43

often only gets a few minutes' warning.

0:30:430:30:46

And this is because Japan sits almost on some of the most

0:30:470:30:50

active faults lines in the Pacific Ring of Fire.

0:30:500:30:53

These faults are so close to Japan that if an earthquake happens here,

0:30:530:30:57

it can create a tsunami that will hit Japan within minutes.

0:30:570:31:02

This means those living near to the coast are given little warning,

0:31:030:31:07

and often the wave arrives before they have time to run away.

0:31:070:31:10

And this is why the Japanese death toll from tsunamis is one of the world's highest.

0:31:200:31:25

Tragically, tens of thousands of people have lost their lives

0:31:250:31:29

to tsunamis since records began.

0:31:290:31:31

It's no wonder the Japanese people

0:31:320:31:35

are now perhaps the most mindful of the power of the ocean.

0:31:350:31:38

Having been regularly bombarded by tsunamis,

0:31:420:31:45

Hawaii and Japan have become the centre of advanced warning systems,

0:31:450:31:50

systems that have already saved many lives.

0:31:500:31:53

Within minutes of an earthquake anywhere in the Pacific,

0:31:530:31:57

scientists can assess the size of the quake,

0:31:570:31:59

calculate the risk of a tsunami and, if necessary, issue a warning.

0:31:590:32:05

But even with a warning system, both these island communities

0:32:120:32:16

will always be in the path of every tsunami that has crossed the Pacific.

0:32:160:32:20

In the end, these islands will always be in the wrong place,

0:32:250:32:30

at the wrong time.

0:32:300:32:31

And now for a real rarity.

0:32:340:32:37

A tsunami that happened in a place where they never normally occur.

0:32:370:32:40

It happened in Britain.

0:32:400:32:43

It was one of Britain's worst natural disasters and at the time,

0:32:430:32:48

it was a media sensation.

0:32:480:32:49

In fact, the only reason we know so much about it,

0:32:490:32:53

is because it was the first tabloid coverage of a tsunami.

0:32:530:32:56

But it wasn't in the 20th century, or even in the 19th -

0:32:560:33:01

it was 400 years ago.

0:33:010:33:03

Who would have thought that we in Britain

0:33:100:33:13

may have had our own tsunami?

0:33:130:33:15

In fact, they're so rare here that we've only ever had three in recorded history.

0:33:150:33:20

And this is because Britain sits in a fairly safe geological area.

0:33:200:33:24

But in 1607, we were hit by what scientists believe

0:33:240:33:29

was either a tsunami or a massive storm surge.

0:33:290:33:32

It caused a media sensation,

0:33:320:33:35

and this was how the media of the time covered it.

0:33:350:33:38

These pamphlets reveal the full horror of the wave

0:33:500:33:54

that struck the counties of Somerset, Gwent and Monmouthshire,

0:33:540:33:58

along the Bristol Channel on January 20th, 1607.

0:33:580:34:03

But what on earth caused this rare disaster off our shores?

0:34:070:34:11

Some scientists believe a fault line that's rarely active

0:34:110:34:15

shifted off the coast of Ireland.

0:34:150:34:17

It displaced enough water to generate a tsunami.

0:34:220:34:25

Moving at speed, the wave would have started to head

0:34:270:34:31

in the direction of the Bristol Channel.

0:34:310:34:33

We know from the pamphlets that it happened at dawn.

0:34:380:34:42

People were just waking and starting their days.

0:34:420:34:45

At nine o'clock, their lives were thrown into chaos.

0:34:490:34:54

A huge wall of water hit the shores

0:34:560:34:59

and surged inland towards their villages.

0:34:590:35:01

Eyewitness accounts in the pamphlets report that the wave travelled faster

0:35:160:35:21

than a greyhound can run.

0:35:210:35:24

It was a time when very few people knew how to swim and many drowned.

0:35:290:35:35

The survivors clung to the steeples of churches

0:35:430:35:46

and to the roofs of the few buildings that were left standing.

0:35:460:35:49

It swamped entire villages, people and livestock.

0:35:520:35:56

It had swept inland for up to 200 square miles

0:35:580:36:02

and took the lives of 2,000 people.

0:36:020:36:05

News of the disaster travelled fast.

0:36:050:36:08

And just like today,

0:36:080:36:10

the first to arrive at the scene were the media...

0:36:100:36:12

hungry for a story.

0:36:120:36:14

Then, as now, disaster sells.

0:36:140:36:17

In these cruel waters, many men, women and children lost their lives...

0:36:260:36:29

..an overflowing of water and forcible breaches made into the firm land...

0:36:290:36:33

The sudden terror whereof struck such an amazed fear into all the inhabitants...

0:36:330:36:37

Flocks of sheep are destroyed...

0:36:370:36:39

Everyone prepared himself ready to entertain the last period of his life...

0:36:390:36:44

Dead bodies float to the surface and are continually taken up...

0:36:440:36:47

The whole country shall feel the smart.

0:36:470:36:49

Today, we're now able to explain the causes of tsunamis with science.

0:36:510:36:56

But it's clear from these pamphlets what the media at the time

0:36:560:37:00

believed caused the event.

0:37:000:37:02

To their minds, God had sent this as an act of retribution.

0:37:020:37:07

For them, God sends weather and God sends waves.

0:37:070:37:11

Divine vengeance or not, these pamphlets have allowed us

0:37:140:37:18

to piece together the awful events of that morning.

0:37:180:37:21

And the 17th century media coverage

0:37:210:37:24

recorded one of the worst ever natural disasters to hit our shores.

0:37:240:37:28

My next story is one of the best kept wartime secrets from World War Two.

0:37:340:37:39

It reads like the plot line of a James Bond novel.

0:37:390:37:42

But I assure you it's not fiction.

0:37:420:37:45

This is a story of the development of a bomb.

0:37:450:37:48

But not just any old bomb - a bomb that would trigger a tsunami.

0:37:480:37:52

The war in the Pacific.

0:38:030:38:04

For several years during the Second World War,

0:38:060:38:09

much of the Pacific was a battleground,

0:38:090:38:11

with fierce fighting between the Allies and the Japanese,

0:38:110:38:15

not just on the mainland,

0:38:150:38:16

but also on many of the thousands of tiny islands

0:38:160:38:20

scattered across the Pacific Ocean.

0:38:200:38:22

The Japanese had captured many of these islands

0:38:220:38:25

and were so well entrenched, it felt like they couldn't be defeated.

0:38:250:38:30

The terrain was difficult and there were huge casualties.

0:38:300:38:33

So the Allies were keen to explore new ideas about how to fight,

0:38:340:38:37

without risking so many of their troops.

0:38:370:38:41

They wondered if there was a way of fighting the Japanese here which didn't involve soldiers at all.

0:38:410:38:46

It was in 1944 that the idea first began to dawn on allied generals

0:38:480:38:53

that there might be a simpler way to wipe out the enemy.

0:38:530:38:56

That it might be possible to create artificial tsunamis

0:38:560:39:00

by exploding bombs in the ocean.

0:39:000:39:02

The plan was that these man-made tsunamis could be set off

0:39:020:39:06

in the direction of the Japanese-occupied islands

0:39:060:39:08

and drown enemy soldiers.

0:39:080:39:11

Codenamed Project Seal, this plan was considered so significant at the time

0:39:140:39:20

that the Allies classified these documents as "top secret".

0:39:200:39:24

And they have only been recently revealed.

0:39:240:39:27

The mastermind of this project

0:39:270:39:29

was to be an Australian, Professor Thomas Leech.

0:39:290:39:32

And he became obsessed with building a tsunami bomb.

0:39:320:39:35

He was convinced he could create a wave 40 feet high

0:39:370:39:41

that would travel three miles inland,

0:39:410:39:43

swamping enemy-held beaches and drowning the enemy.

0:39:430:39:47

And so the experimenting began.

0:39:470:39:49

His team didn't just use explosives out at sea,

0:39:520:39:55

they also built a special pond as a laboratory to test their bomb.

0:39:550:39:59

It was thought that at a certain depth, underwater explosions

0:40:020:40:06

might generate surface waves much larger than usual.

0:40:060:40:09

So they planted underwater explosives and detonated them.

0:40:090:40:15

But on the first day, this idea was blown right out of the water.

0:40:160:40:21

No matter what the depth, the waves formed were negligible.

0:40:230:40:27

Professor Leech then came up with a new idea.

0:40:290:40:32

He decided the best way was to detonate explosives on a raft on the surface of the water.

0:40:320:40:37

EXPLOSION

0:40:370:40:39

And when they tried it, it did produce a few encouraging waves.

0:40:390:40:44

But as he started to increase the size of the explosions,

0:40:470:40:51

he found little increase in the size of the waves.

0:40:510:40:54

And from then on, as the experiments continued to fail,

0:40:540:40:58

Professor Leech's science and data also became suspect.

0:40:580:41:04

By the end of seven months,

0:41:090:41:11

he'd carried out an incredible 4,000 experiments.

0:41:110:41:14

But again, every single one of them failed.

0:41:140:41:17

Not one explosion did any more than agitate the upper levels of the pond.

0:41:170:41:23

Finally, our Professor Leech decided on the biggest experiment of all.

0:41:230:41:28

He planned to carry out a huge test with 2,000 tons of explosives

0:41:280:41:33

in an inlet with the exact same conditions as Tokyo Bay.

0:41:330:41:38

But this experiment never happened.

0:41:420:41:45

Top military scientific advisers were by now deeply concerned by the failure of his experiments.

0:41:450:41:51

They looked over Leech's calculations

0:41:510:41:54

and could see they were flawed.

0:41:540:41:56

Some of his crucial equations were wrong.

0:41:560:41:59

One adviser said the amount of explosives needed to create

0:41:590:42:02

a tsunami were so vast that it would be impractical and would never work.

0:42:020:42:07

Project Seal was closed down.

0:42:100:42:13

The failure of the project was kept a secret...

0:42:170:42:20

until now.

0:42:200:42:22

And that was the end of one of the most unlikely tsunami stories that I've ever come across.

0:42:230:42:27

Many of us are brought up on tales from the Bible.

0:42:340:42:37

And my next story is a biblical tale that we're all familiar with -

0:42:370:42:41

it's the story of Moses.

0:42:410:42:44

But what some people may not know is that it's been linked to a tsunami.

0:42:440:42:48

According to the Exodus story,

0:42:550:42:58

around 35,000 years ago, Moses led his people out of slavery in Egypt.

0:42:580:43:04

But as the Hebrews left Egypt,

0:43:040:43:07

Pharaoh changed his mind about letting them go.

0:43:070:43:09

So Pharaoh sent an army of 600 chariots in pursuit.

0:43:110:43:15

And here's the part we all remember in the Bible.

0:43:150:43:18

So as to save Moses and his followers,

0:43:180:43:21

God parted the Red Sea so they could all escape across dry land.

0:43:210:43:26

And then the waters returned.

0:43:260:43:28

The sea closed over Pharaoh's army and drowned them.

0:43:280:43:32

That's the Bible story we all know,

0:43:350:43:37

but there's a twist to the Moses story.

0:43:370:43:40

Some experts now believe that instead of crossing the Red Sea,

0:43:410:43:45

Moses and his followers actually crossed a marshy area

0:43:450:43:49

north of that once known as the Reed Sea.

0:43:490:43:52

It was thought to be just east of the Nile Delta

0:43:520:43:56

and most importantly, near the coast of the Mediterranean Sea.

0:43:560:44:00

If you read the Bible in the original Hebrew,

0:44:000:44:03

the word 'red' is mistranslated.

0:44:030:44:05

In the Hebrew bible, Moses and his people

0:44:050:44:09

cross the "Yam Suph" - this means the Sea of Reeds.

0:44:090:44:13

So, not the Red Sea, but the Reed Sea.

0:44:140:44:16

And not a narrow seaway, but a shallow, marshy area near the Mediterranean coast.

0:44:160:44:21

Now you would think that parting the Reed Sea and then flooding it again

0:44:230:44:26

could only be achieved through divine intervention.

0:44:260:44:29

But there is a way that nature can perform exactly the same thing.

0:44:340:44:38

And of course, it involves a tsunami.

0:44:380:44:41

And this is how nature can do it.

0:44:420:44:45

One of the largest of all volcanic eruptions took place 3,500 years ago,

0:44:480:44:54

around the time that some experts date the Moses story.

0:44:540:44:57

It was that massive volcanic eruption at Santorini,

0:44:570:45:01

the one that devastated the Minoan civilisation on Crete.

0:45:010:45:04

The eruption and collapse of Santorini would've been so violent,

0:45:070:45:12

it would've displaced a huge body of water, creating tsunamis.

0:45:120:45:15

But crucially, when the sea rushed in to fill the void,

0:45:160:45:20

it would've sucked water in from all the surrounding coastlines...

0:45:200:45:24

even from the Nile Delta.

0:45:240:45:25

It's the drawback effect that happens just before a tsunami hits.

0:45:270:45:32

As the sea was sucked away from coastal areas, billions of gallons

0:45:320:45:36

of water would have been siphoned off the marshy Reed Sea in Egypt,

0:45:360:45:40

drying it out for up to 20 minutes.

0:45:400:45:43

It would have created the same effect as God parting the waves.

0:45:430:45:47

Then suddenly, the tsunami itself would have arrived on the shore,

0:45:510:45:55

flooding several miles inland and gushing up the river valleys.

0:45:550:45:59

Creating exactly the same effect as the waters returning and drowning Pharaoh's army.

0:46:060:46:12

If the Santorini eruption really did produce this type of tsunami in Egypt,

0:46:130:46:18

it would have been remembered for generations,

0:46:180:46:21

and may well have been the inspiration for this great story.

0:46:210:46:25

But it's also an example of how the forces of nature

0:46:270:46:30

can achieve an effect so unbelievable

0:46:300:46:33

that it seems like an act of God.

0:46:330:46:35

My next tsunami is truly extraordinary

0:46:380:46:41

because it's the highest wave ever recorded,

0:46:410:46:44

higher than any skyscraper on Earth -

0:46:440:46:47

it was half a kilometre high.

0:46:470:46:50

What's even more incredible is that a father and son, out on their boat,

0:46:500:46:54

not only witnessed the wave,

0:46:540:46:56

they surfed it and lived to tell the tale.

0:46:560:46:59

It all happened in a peaceful-looking inlet

0:47:110:47:13

on the northeast shore of the Gulf of Alaska.

0:47:130:47:17

This is the scene of the highest wave ever recorded.

0:47:170:47:20

The cause of the wave turned out to be something that took scientists completely by surprise.

0:47:200:47:26

The wave reached an astonishing 520m,

0:47:260:47:30

higher than the tallest building on Earth.

0:47:300:47:33

And what's more, there were witnesses.

0:47:330:47:36

On a clear and calm summer evening in 1958,

0:47:390:47:42

Howard Ulrich and his son were on their boat inside this bay.

0:47:420:47:47

The date was...

0:47:470:47:49

July 9th, 1958.

0:47:490:47:52

We came into Lituya Bay about eight o'clock in the evening.

0:47:530:47:57

My son was with me.

0:47:570:47:59

I was eight years old at the time and being a child like I was,

0:48:000:48:04

I was halfway asleep as well.

0:48:040:48:06

At approximately 10.15pm,

0:48:090:48:10

there was a large rumbling noise from up at the head of the bay.

0:48:110:48:15

It was like a big loud noise from...

0:48:260:48:28

over in this direction towards the mountains over there.

0:48:280:48:32

There was a slight pause.

0:48:400:48:42

I thought that everything was over with...

0:48:420:48:45

but some movement caught my attention out of the corner of my eye

0:48:450:48:49

and so I looked directly up there and what I observed was a, er...

0:48:490:48:55

like an atomic explosion.

0:48:550:48:57

After this big flash came a huge wave.

0:49:130:49:16

It looked like just a big wall of water.

0:49:160:49:18

He threw me a life preserver and he said, "Son, start praying."

0:49:250:49:29

You're looking at death and this is exactly my first thought.

0:49:310:49:34

When the wave hit us, I did feel the boat all of a sudden

0:49:460:49:50

start shooting upwards, skywards.

0:49:500:49:53

I had 40 fathoms of anchor chain and it started running out off the boat.

0:49:580:50:04

Came to the end of the 40 fathoms, just snapped it like a string.

0:50:040:50:08

And then we were free, but we were still on the front of the wave.

0:50:110:50:15

We were swept up over the land and up above the trees.

0:50:180:50:22

That's where I assumed that we were going to end up.

0:50:220:50:25

But instead, they rode the front of the tsunami

0:50:260:50:29

as it carried them high above the trees for hundreds of metres,

0:50:290:50:33

before washing them back into the bay.

0:50:330:50:36

We still have the original 1958 conversation

0:50:360:50:39

between Howard Ulrich and the coastguard after it was all over.

0:50:390:50:42

I had never heard or seen of anything like this. It was unbelievable.

0:51:030:51:09

I couldn't imagine what could have caused anything.

0:51:090:51:12

I kept wondering just what mechanism could cause something like that.

0:51:120:51:17

A scientist flew over Lituya Bay the following day and filmed this footage of the devastation.

0:51:220:51:27

When he finally saw what had caused the wave,

0:51:270:51:30

it came as a complete surprise.

0:51:300:51:32

90 million tons of rock and ice had fallen in a massive landslide

0:51:350:51:40

into the head of the bay.

0:51:400:51:42

Amazingly, scientists had never before realised

0:51:420:51:45

landslides could cause a tsunami.

0:51:450:51:48

This cascade hit the water with a mighty impact

0:51:480:51:52

and released enough energy to create a wave surge so high and powerful,

0:51:520:51:57

it stripped trees and soil for up to half a kilometre up the slopes.

0:51:570:52:02

At this height, the wave would have swamped the tallest skyscraper on Earth.

0:52:030:52:08

50 times higher than a normal tsunami,

0:52:080:52:11

it was greater than any wave heard of in history.

0:52:110:52:14

This wall of water surged down the bay,

0:52:140:52:17

picking up Howard Ulrich's boat.

0:52:170:52:19

Surfing the front of the highest wave ever recorded,

0:52:190:52:23

father and son unbelievably got away with their lives.

0:52:230:52:28

The Lituya Bay tsunami taught us that massive landslides can cause tsunamis.

0:52:330:52:38

That might mean we can work out where big tsunamis might happen.

0:52:380:52:42

Which is why scientists are looking around the world's coastline

0:52:420:52:46

for places where there are unstable slopes

0:52:460:52:49

that might send giant landslides into the ocean.

0:52:490:52:52

And that's why I'm here on La Palma in the Canaries.

0:52:520:52:55

Because there's some evidence that that...

0:52:550:52:58

whole slope of the volcano behind me might one day collapse into the sea.

0:52:580:53:03

How it will happen is the subject of my final story.

0:53:030:53:08

The Canary Islands are a chain of volcanic islands

0:53:150:53:18

lying just off the coast of North Africa in the Atlantic Ocean.

0:53:180:53:22

One of the most active of these is the island of La Palma.

0:53:220:53:25

And it's this very landscape that some scientists say

0:53:250:53:29

will one day cause havoc and devastation across the Atlantic.

0:53:290:53:34

These scientists predict that this side of the island

0:53:350:53:38

will collapse into the ocean,

0:53:380:53:40

creating a tsunami of titanic proportions,

0:53:400:53:44

far bigger than anything ever witnessed before.

0:53:440:53:47

The island is made up of two volcanoes.

0:53:470:53:50

This one in the south is called the Cumbre Vieja,

0:53:500:53:53

and is not only still active, but very unstable.

0:53:530:53:56

We know this because of something that happened

0:54:010:54:04

after the last eruption of this volcano in 1949.

0:54:040:54:08

About a week or so after the eruption in 1949,

0:54:180:54:22

something extraordinary happened here.

0:54:220:54:24

There were several very strong earthquakes, and this crack began to open.

0:54:240:54:29

The west side of the volcano, over here, started to collapse and slide towards the sea,

0:54:290:54:34

which is something you don't normally see on a volcano.

0:54:340:54:37

What it means is that the volcano is unstable,

0:54:370:54:41

which is why some scientists believe that this whole side of the volcano

0:54:410:54:44

may one day, during an eruption, fall into the sea.

0:54:440:54:49

But scientists can't tell how many more times this volcano has to erupt

0:54:490:54:54

before its western flank finally collapses.

0:54:540:54:58

But if it does happen, it would be one of the worst natural disasters in human history.

0:54:580:55:04

A huge section of southern La Palma,

0:55:050:55:07

weighing half a trillion tons, would fall into the Atlantic.

0:55:070:55:13

The impact of this colossal landslide

0:55:390:55:42

would displace a vast body of water.

0:55:420:55:45

It would unleash much more than just a tsunami.

0:55:470:55:50

It would be a mega-tsunami -

0:55:500:55:53

a wave that would start out well over half a kilometre high.

0:55:530:55:56

The wave would then radiate out across the Atlantic,

0:56:120:56:16

racing towards North America,

0:56:160:56:18

reaching the east coast in just eight hours.

0:56:180:56:22

The La Palma mega-tsunami, this mighty wall of water,

0:56:220:56:25

would hit Boston, New York,

0:56:250:56:28

then all the way down the coast to Miami and the Caribbean.

0:56:280:56:32

If you were standing on a beach,

0:56:340:56:36

the very first effects you'd probably see is drawback.

0:56:360:56:40

The ocean would suddenly just pull away. But in the background,

0:56:400:56:44

you'd be looking at a wall of water that would keep coming towards you.

0:56:440:56:49

It would engulf the whole US east coast,

0:57:050:57:09

sweeping away everything in its path up to 14 miles inland.

0:57:090:57:15

Every city on the shoreline would be destroyed.

0:57:150:57:19

So when will this catastrophic event happen?

0:57:270:57:31

Nobody knows. Nobody knows even when the next eruption will happen,

0:57:310:57:36

and it'll probably take many more eruptions before this flank of the volcano finally collapses.

0:57:360:57:42

So scientists can't say when,

0:57:420:57:44

but some are convinced that one day it will really happen.

0:57:440:57:49

If this event were ever to occur,

0:57:490:57:51

it would create a tragedy on an unimaginable scale.

0:57:510:57:56

Just because we've never experienced such an event,

0:57:560:57:59

we believe it'll never happen to us.

0:57:590:58:01

But from the age of the dinosaurs to the present day,

0:58:020:58:05

the tsunami stories I've told you

0:58:050:58:07

have shown us that they've always happened.

0:58:070:58:11

So, there's one thing we can be sure of -

0:58:110:58:13

tsunamis will continue to strike us at any time...

0:58:130:58:16

..and from anywhere.

0:58:180:58:19

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:58:440:58:46

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0:58:460:58:48

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