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This is Antarctica, the last, great wilderness. It's the coldest, | :00:00. | :00:23. | |
windiest, driest and most isolated place on earth. And it's home to the | :00:24. | :00:31. | |
British Antarctic survey's Halley research station. Here, cutting-edge | :00:32. | :00:36. | |
science is making vital discoveries about how our lives are vulnerable | :00:37. | :00:43. | |
to the sun's activities and threatened by man-made climate | :00:44. | :00:51. | |
change. It's January 27, 2016, and we're at 75 degrees south. For the | :00:52. | :00:55. | |
last couple of weeks, we've been on this ship behind me, the RRS earnest | :00:56. | :00:59. | |
Shackleton, crossing the Sothern Ocean. We're making this journey to | :01:00. | :01:07. | |
resupply the research station, but this is also something of a rescue | :01:08. | :01:17. | |
mission. Although it appears to be on solid ground, Hally sits on a | :01:18. | :01:24. | |
constantly moving and cracking ice shelf, which has a chasm that | :01:25. | :01:28. | |
threatens to cast the station adrift on a massive iceberg. Our cargo is | :01:29. | :01:31. | |
part of the effort to stop that happening. I'm Peter Gibbs, my job | :01:32. | :01:37. | |
is working for the Met Office as a BBC weatherman, but back in my | :01:38. | :01:43. | |
younger days, I worked as a meteorologist in Antarctica for over | :01:44. | :01:47. | |
two years. I never, ever thought I'd get the opportunity to return. This | :01:48. | :01:53. | |
is my journey to investigate the threat to Halley's future. Here we | :01:54. | :01:59. | |
go then. It's going over the edge that's the worst bit. And science at | :02:00. | :02:05. | |
the end of the world. It's just phenomenal. | :02:06. | :02:28. | |
This is the real deal now, a huge iceberg that probably broke off the | :02:29. | :02:35. | |
continent decades ago. The point is, though, if we were here in this spot | :02:36. | :02:39. | |
at the end of winter, there would be several hundred miles of continuous | :02:40. | :02:44. | |
sea ice between us and the coast. That's why it's impossible to get | :02:45. | :02:51. | |
into Halley for a good nine months of the year. Back to the UK now and | :02:52. | :02:54. | |
that frosty start in the south, it's not going to last too long. The | :02:55. | :02:59. | |
sunshine, once it comes up, clearing the frost fairly quickly. | :03:00. | :03:05. | |
I've been waving my arms in front of weather charts for 20-odd years now. | :03:06. | :03:09. | |
But straight from university, I actually applied to the British | :03:10. | :03:14. | |
Antarctic survey. I was taken on to be sent down as the weatherman to | :03:15. | :03:18. | |
their Halley research station in Antarctica. It was for two years | :03:19. | :03:22. | |
that. Was standard in those days. This is a bit of a roughy, toughy | :03:23. | :03:26. | |
shot, but behind there, you can see there's a pretty young man, who is | :03:27. | :03:30. | |
still getting to grips with the enormity of what he's actually taken | :03:31. | :03:38. | |
on. Once a month, we'd have a 200-word telex message in and out. | :03:39. | :03:42. | |
To be honest, after a few months, I was struggling find very much to put | :03:43. | :03:46. | |
into those 200-word messages. Essentially, for eight, nine months | :03:47. | :03:51. | |
of the year, there is no way to get anybody in or out. But I absolutely | :03:52. | :03:55. | |
lovered it. I really took to it. -- loved it. I really took to it. Even | :03:56. | :03:59. | |
after two years, when the ship came to take me away, I didn't want to | :04:00. | :04:06. | |
go. I really didn't want to go. I had such an attachment to the place, | :04:07. | :04:09. | |
that I really didn't want to leave it, so to have the chance to | :04:10. | :04:21. | |
actually go back is a big thing. 35 years on, and e-mail has replaced | :04:22. | :04:27. | |
telex, but Halley is still as isolated as ever. So far from | :04:28. | :04:34. | |
civilisation it may as well be on another planet. And everyone posted | :04:35. | :04:44. | |
there still needs to be utterly self-reliant. I'm Jess. I'm the | :04:45. | :04:50. | |
winter station leader. I am in charge of making sure the station | :04:51. | :04:54. | |
runs smoothly over the winter, when we're down to a team of just 13 of | :04:55. | :05:00. | |
us. We don't have help, so all our emergency planning is based on | :05:01. | :05:03. | |
people on station sorting themselves out. We have to be prepared for any | :05:04. | :05:10. | |
circumstances, so in the event like a fire, we have our emergency | :05:11. | :05:15. | |
supplies elsewhere on station, in containers, in other buildings. With | :05:16. | :05:20. | |
outside help possibly months away, the station has supplies to survive | :05:21. | :05:28. | |
for almost 300 days. Food allowances are calculated based on military | :05:29. | :05:32. | |
rations. We add the polar allowance to that, which adds for the more | :05:33. | :05:35. | |
calories because of the colder weather. We have a lot of stores, | :05:36. | :05:42. | |
1500 kilograms of tinned tomatoes. Nearly 900 kilograms of beef. We | :05:43. | :05:47. | |
never want to run out of food. It's often said that the chef is one of | :05:48. | :05:50. | |
the most important people on station. | :05:51. | :05:59. | |
This ice shelf is just a small part of Antarctica. It's a vast | :06:00. | :06:11. | |
continent, almost twice the size of Australia. It contains 70% of the | :06:12. | :06:24. | |
world's fresh water. Trapped in an ice sheet that's up to five | :06:25. | :06:32. | |
kilometres thick. And because of this, Antarctica is a huge influence | :06:33. | :06:38. | |
on global weather patterns. So monitoring what goes on here is | :06:39. | :06:45. | |
critical. Back in the early 80s, when I was last here, Halley was at | :06:46. | :06:52. | |
the centre of a global environmental news story all about a frightening | :06:53. | :06:58. | |
man-made hull high in the stratosphere. An aerosol can, the | :06:59. | :07:04. | |
argument goes that sprays are destroying a vital part of the | :07:05. | :07:08. | |
earth's atmosphere. There's a two-mile thick layer of a gas called | :07:09. | :07:13. | |
ozone just here, about ten miles above the earth. Ozone matters | :07:14. | :07:21. | |
because it does one crucial thing - it shields all life on the earth's | :07:22. | :07:27. | |
surface from the sun's harmful radiation. Scientists at Halley | :07:28. | :07:33. | |
discovered that each spring, as the sun re-appeared, ozone levels above | :07:34. | :07:38. | |
here dropped dramatically. They were so surprised they went back and | :07:39. | :07:41. | |
checked and rechecked their results. In fact what they found was a hole | :07:42. | :07:47. | |
in the ozone layer the size of Antarctica. This is the machine that | :07:48. | :07:58. | |
discovered the ozone hole, this is the Dobson spectramanometer. This | :07:59. | :08:04. | |
was here in the 1980s, but it was invented in the 1920s by GMB Dobson, | :08:05. | :08:11. | |
basically in his garden shed. Even now almost 100 years later, it's the | :08:12. | :08:17. | |
gold standard for ozone measurement. Essentially what it's telling us is | :08:18. | :08:21. | |
how much harmful UV radiation gets down to the earth's surface. What it | :08:22. | :08:30. | |
detected in the 80s was the effect of man-made gases, used in spray | :08:31. | :08:36. | |
cans and fridges, trapped within Antarctica's polar vortex. In | :08:37. | :08:41. | |
winter, the cold air circulating high above the continent forms | :08:42. | :08:46. | |
stratospheric ice clouds containing these gases. When the spring sun | :08:47. | :08:53. | |
returns, they act as a catalyst, destroying ozone. Ozone has been | :08:54. | :08:57. | |
measured daily here at Halley since the mid-1950s. It was the change in | :08:58. | :09:02. | |
levels in the 70s and 80s that led scientists to realise that it was | :09:03. | :09:05. | |
being destroyed in the stratosphere. That then led on to the signing of | :09:06. | :09:13. | |
the Montreal protocol in 1987 to ban ozone destroying chemicals like | :09:14. | :09:18. | |
CFCs. It was an unprecedented feat of international cooperation. | :09:19. | :09:22. | |
Measurements are still being taken on a daily basis, what they show is | :09:23. | :09:26. | |
that it will take at least to the end of the century for levels to | :09:27. | :09:32. | |
return to near normal. So it seems as if the rot has stopped. | :09:33. | :09:41. | |
Studying the atmosphere at Halley is critical. Antarctica is a huge | :09:42. | :09:49. | |
ice-covered continent surrounded by ocean and when that ocean freezes | :09:50. | :09:54. | |
during the winter, for as much as a thousand miles, it doubles the area | :09:55. | :10:01. | |
of ice. That yearly heart beat is a huge influence on the planet's | :10:02. | :10:09. | |
climate. Also the Sothern Oceans are a big player. The endless storms | :10:10. | :10:16. | |
that circulate around the periphery of Antarctica drive a conveyor belt | :10:17. | :10:20. | |
of oceanic heat. While this place might be out of sight for most of | :10:21. | :10:24. | |
us, what happens here affects us all. Keeping Halley operational on | :10:25. | :10:33. | |
this particular ice shelf is critical, not just for monitoring | :10:34. | :10:38. | |
the weather. 60 years ago, it was cited here ah, long with numerous -- | :10:39. | :10:43. | |
along with numerous aerials to investigate the interactions between | :10:44. | :10:48. | |
the earth and the sun. I'm Richard. I work at the British Antarctic | :10:49. | :10:52. | |
survey and I lead the space weather and atmosphere team. Halley is our | :10:53. | :10:56. | |
window on space, that's what we call it. I feel like the luckiest person | :10:57. | :11:02. | |
on earth really. Each winter at Halley, there's a dazzling display | :11:03. | :11:10. | |
of light, the Aurora australis. The Aurora are only possible at the | :11:11. | :11:14. | |
north and south poles because of the shape of the earth's magnetic fields | :11:15. | :11:20. | |
and by monitoring what goes on above our heads, Halley's location gives | :11:21. | :11:22. | |
us the opportunity to protect our modern world from the sun's | :11:23. | :11:29. | |
destructive activity. The flow of the planet's molten iron core is | :11:30. | :11:34. | |
what creates the earth's magnetic field. Field lines stretch out into | :11:35. | :11:40. | |
space, 60,000 kilometres facing the sun and trailing away some 400,000 | :11:41. | :11:44. | |
kilometres on the dark side of the earth | :11:45. | :11:51. | |
These field lines can't be seen, but we do witness the Aurora when | :11:52. | :12:01. | |
they're disrupted by the sun's coronal mass ejections. | :12:02. | :12:09. | |
It emits billions of tonnes of charged particles and when they come | :12:10. | :12:15. | |
to the earth they see the earth's magnetic field as a barrier. But it | :12:16. | :12:19. | |
has a potential of ripping open the outer layers of the earth's magnetic | :12:20. | :12:24. | |
field, drawing the field across the polar caps and extending the | :12:25. | :12:28. | |
magnetic field into the tail. The magnetic field lines on the dark | :12:29. | :12:34. | |
side of the earth are suddenly violently snapped back into place. | :12:35. | :12:41. | |
It's an earthquake in space, if you like. That process is the start of a | :12:42. | :12:45. | |
large geometic storm and the manifestation of that is that the | :12:46. | :12:52. | |
Aurora you see in the polar regions. But Halley isn't just under this | :12:53. | :12:57. | |
zone. It also sits within a unique glitch | :12:58. | :13:03. | |
in the earth's magnetic field called the south Atlantic anomaly. | :13:04. | :13:10. | |
And for scientists it's a window into space that allows them to study | :13:11. | :13:16. | |
radio waves thrown out by those coronal mass ejikss. Our research | :13:17. | :13:21. | |
has shown those radio waves can accelerate charged particles up to | :13:22. | :13:25. | |
very high energies and damage the sprayscraft. We call them killer | :13:26. | :13:34. | |
electrons. They become trapped in magnetic fields wrapped around the | :13:35. | :13:39. | |
earth called the van Allen radiation belts. | :13:40. | :13:45. | |
And during a magnetic storm caused by a coronal mass ejection they can | :13:46. | :13:49. | |
increase 10,000-fold in as little as two minutes. | :13:50. | :13:55. | |
The problem is that over half of all satellites pass through these belts | :13:56. | :14:00. | |
as they orbit the earth. The charged particles can penetrate | :14:01. | :14:05. | |
the outer skin of a spacecraft and then they get buried into circuit | :14:06. | :14:11. | |
boards, insulators, cables and that charge can then build up. If it | :14:12. | :14:20. | |
builds up to a very high level it can cause electrostatic discharge. | :14:21. | :14:24. | |
It's like a lightning bolt. They have been related to the loss of a | :14:25. | :14:29. | |
spacecraft, the total satellite loss, costing $250 million. That's a | :14:30. | :14:36. | |
lot of money. You think that there is something like 120 satellites on | :14:37. | :14:40. | |
orbit in total. The space weather research done here | :14:41. | :14:49. | |
is attempting to forecast the impact of geo mag yettic storms because of | :14:50. | :14:54. | |
the damage they can do. We need to know what the largest level of the | :14:55. | :14:59. | |
radiation can be in a severe storm because we can then give that | :15:00. | :15:04. | |
information to the designers and they can then design against that to | :15:05. | :15:15. | |
help protect the spacecraft. Arguably back here on earth Halley's | :15:16. | :15:20. | |
most important work is to look out for signs of climate change. | :15:21. | :15:24. | |
Neil, this snow surface is almost perfect for skiing. Yeah, it's | :15:25. | :15:29. | |
absolutely great. It's lovely and sot -- lovely and soft. It's this | :15:30. | :15:32. | |
snow within the clean air sector that we have come to take a closer | :15:33. | :15:38. | |
look at. This is not the easiest with big | :15:39. | :15:47. | |
boots on, is it? No, definitely not. The prevailing wind arriving here | :15:48. | :15:53. | |
blows over 2,000 miles of an untouched continent, making it the | :15:54. | :15:57. | |
purest air in the world. When it's trapped by the snow falling here | :15:58. | :16:01. | |
isolating pollutants created by human activity is made a lot easier. | :16:02. | :16:08. | |
Operations at Halley mean that purity is guaranteed. | :16:09. | :16:12. | |
There is no vehicles coming down here. The only way to get into this | :16:13. | :16:18. | |
area is to walk or ski. Right the suit is on. What's next? First of | :16:19. | :16:23. | |
all, we need a hole and that will take sometime. That will warm us up. | :16:24. | :16:28. | |
We are wearing these fetching overalls to prevent us contaminating | :16:29. | :16:33. | |
the snow samples. I am suffering for science! | :16:34. | :16:40. | |
Because the air here is so pure chemicals trapped in the snow reveal | :16:41. | :16:47. | |
historic climate change. Snow sampling gives us a present day | :16:48. | :16:53. | |
understanding of the atmosphere as compared to ice cores which provide | :16:54. | :16:58. | |
an atmospheric reference to the past. If we can link these two | :16:59. | :17:03. | |
together we can provide a better understanding of what the atmosphere | :17:04. | :17:06. | |
will be like in the future and the effects that will have on our | :17:07. | :17:13. | |
climate. Millennium old ice cores only contain natural pollutants from | :17:14. | :17:20. | |
forest fires. The snow sachls contain everything manmade in the | :17:21. | :17:25. | |
modern world. So comparing the two can help determine the impact those | :17:26. | :17:28. | |
pollutant levels may have on the climate. | :17:29. | :17:40. | |
But that's not the whole story. Another kilometre further away is | :17:41. | :17:44. | |
the clean air lab. The air monitoring equipment here is so | :17:45. | :17:49. | |
sensitive it can detect forest fires and volcanic eruptions as far away | :17:50. | :17:55. | |
as south America or Africa. Breathing the cleanest air on the | :17:56. | :18:00. | |
planet, I like that. The clean air lab is searching for evidence of | :18:01. | :18:08. | |
global warming. In particular, the greenhouse gases CO2 and methane. | :18:09. | :18:15. | |
Here we have the sample pipe, the air comes in, it goes into the | :18:16. | :18:19. | |
instrument and that's where we measure the air outside, the clean | :18:20. | :18:23. | |
air outside. These are the real-time values we are seeing of what | :18:24. | :18:28. | |
actually are all greenhouse gases? Yes, as we know CO2 is one of the | :18:29. | :18:38. | |
main gases at the moment. It's about 390 per million. When I first | :18:39. | :18:47. | |
started it was around 375. It's probably increased by nearly 10% or | :18:48. | :18:50. | |
thereabouts. How can you be sure those levels that you are seeing | :18:51. | :18:55. | |
increasing are coming from human activity? The only way you can get a | :18:56. | :19:05. | |
large amount into the atmosphere is through volcano eruptions and there | :19:06. | :19:09. | |
hasn't been any large in the last 150 years. We can say it's more than | :19:10. | :19:17. | |
likely coming from fossil burns. Although volcanoes erupt all the | :19:18. | :19:20. | |
time there have been no major events for over a century and the present | :19:21. | :19:26. | |
concentration of atmospheric CO2 is higher than it has been for almost a | :19:27. | :19:33. | |
million years. But for atmospheric chemists it's also an indicator of | :19:34. | :19:39. | |
what can happen with a far more dangerous greenhouse gas, CH4, or | :19:40. | :19:47. | |
methamne. As you can see it's a lot less than CO22. We know that we are | :19:48. | :19:53. | |
putting more CO2 into the atmosphere. As the atmosphere warms | :19:54. | :19:59. | |
up the owings will warm up and as they warm up more CO26789 will come | :20:00. | :20:06. | |
off the oceans. If this reaps rising there is a chance that frost will | :20:07. | :20:09. | |
start to melt and with that we will get the release of methane. The | :20:10. | :20:15. | |
frost off the northern hemisphere across Russia and North America | :20:16. | :20:20. | |
holds vast amounts of methane within its frozen soil. This gas is an even | :20:21. | :20:29. | |
bigger threat than CO2. Methane even though it's smaller in | :20:30. | :20:35. | |
concentration, is 20 times more potent. In the future it could well | :20:36. | :20:41. | |
be the one. For Neil the danger is clear. He thinks that rising CO2 | :20:42. | :20:48. | |
levels could cause the release of more methane into the atmosphere and | :20:49. | :20:53. | |
this gas is likely to have a far greater impact on global warming. | :20:54. | :21:00. | |
But even today the current levels of these greenhouse gases are being | :21:01. | :21:06. | |
felt. Long-term measurements have found temperatures across the | :21:07. | :21:09. | |
Antarctic have risen by over three degrees over the last 60 years, more | :21:10. | :21:14. | |
than ten times the global average. Over the next century greenhouse | :21:15. | :21:20. | |
gases will drive further warming across Antarctic and the surrounding | :21:21. | :21:24. | |
seas. The work being done at Halley is vital. We need to understand | :21:25. | :21:29. | |
those processes to predict the impact of that future warming. | :21:30. | :21:49. | |
After an all too brief nine days on the ice shelf I am heading for home. | :21:50. | :21:58. | |
It's a bittersweet farewell to somewhere I am unlikely to ever see | :21:59. | :22:03. | |
again. I wasn't sure what it was going to | :22:04. | :22:07. | |
be like coming back here after all these years. What I found is a | :22:08. | :22:12. | |
landscape that's completely unchanged but an operation that's on | :22:13. | :22:15. | |
a different scale to what I experienced back in the early 80s. | :22:16. | :22:19. | |
It feels much more professional. The size is bigger, there is more | :22:20. | :22:24. | |
experiments. And yet this place has such a huge influence on the | :22:25. | :22:27. | |
planet's weather and climate which is why the work done here at Halley | :22:28. | :22:35. | |
is so vital. I thoroughly enjoyed my time back on | :22:36. | :22:39. | |
the ice. I was worried what it was going to be like leaving, to be | :22:40. | :22:44. | |
honest I thought I would probably fall apart. But actually, I don't | :22:45. | :22:48. | |
know, it feels like I have come full circle. It's feeling like the end of | :22:49. | :22:54. | |
a journey that I started half a lifetime ago. | :22:55. | :23:35. | |
Hello. We have had lovely spells of sunshine | :23:36. | :23:36. |